@@Drachenfang I'll definitely give it a go this year! But just a lot more smaller and simpler😁 Here in Finland where I live, the halloween culture is almost nonexistent, so I'm quite sure that I'm going to have the nicest looking fall yard!😁😊
@@kata865 Small starters are the best. Still kinda jealous though. I love the Scandinavian countries though I have only ever been able to visit Iceland.
@@Drachenfang oh yes Iceland is very beautiful I hear! Also Norways mountains and countless rivers are breathtaking. It is beautiful in Finland also, the nature is quite similar with sweden. Culture (especially language) on the other hand are almost completely different to other scandinavian countries😊
@@kata865 I know Finland has quite a different language. I assumed there would be a distinct culture gap as well from my readings of a number of english translated old Norse sagas and histories. I'd enjoy hearing more about it if you are in the mood to discuss, though I understand if you do not want to get pulled into a lengthy online discourse.
Hello and thank you for these tutorials, they are fantastic! I have a question about drying time. How many layers of paper do you put on before allowing to dry and for how long? How long do you give the clay to dry? 🤔.. thank you, Grace
You're very welcome. I will usually put six layers of paper on before letting it dry though I believe you can get away with as few as three. With the paper you want it to dry completely. Honestly though paper sometimes dries within a few hours if you have a fan on it. If you put it outside to dry and live in a hot climate be careful of your beach ball bursting. I always give the clay an 'overnight' to dry (8-12 hours). Thicker layers will take longer to dry completely so never apply too much clay (which is usually about an inch thick layer). It's perfectly fine to build up areas in layers and I do that with my pumpkin eyebrows all the time.
Love this version 2. I must of missed that last year. Totally inspired to give this version go. Have been saving drier lint so is it ok to add that into my clay. ?
I have never been to add dryer lint to my clay but I have been saving it too. I suspect that it will make excellent clay but I have been unable to test it.
Thanks very much. To answer the question... both honestly. I think that normal clay would be too heavy, too prone to cracking, and more brittle than I would like it to be. There is an experimental clay using portland cement in place of joint compound to make the paper clay waterproof as well as rather dense. The run down for that can be found on a channel called 'Ultimate Paper Mache.' Realistically though if you have regular clay lying around and the capacity to fire it in a kiln you can probably make a pretty good clay pumpkin based on this sculpting concept. Some air dry modeling clays might work but I think that the end product would be annoyingly heavy and clunky to move and store.
بله خمیر کاغذ خاکی است که مانند ویدیو قبلی درست می شود. در حال حاضر برای سهولت استفاده آن را با دستمال توالت درست می کنم، بنابراین به روزترین روش این است. دو رول دستمال توالت بردارید، آن ها را خیس کنید تا مانند لجن کاغذی درآیند، بیشتر آب را از دستمال توالت بیرون بیاورید، اما نه آنقدر محکم که لازم باشد دست خود را به شدت خم کنید. کاغذ توالت عمدتاً بدون آب را در ظرفی بریزید که می توانید در آن مخلوط کنید. یک فنجان ترکیب اتصال دیواره خشک به آن اضافه کنید. 3/4 فنجان چسب اضافه کنید. شروع به مخلوط کردن کنید. وقتی خمیر کاغذ، چسب و ترکیب مفصل به خوبی مخلوط شدند، شروع به اضافه کردن آرد کنید و به هم زدن ادامه دهید. آرد اضافه می شود تا زمانی که خاک رس به سختی شروع به چسبندگی به پوست شما می کند، زمانی که قطعه ای را برای نمونه برداری از آن بردارید. بدون آرد فقط پوست شما را خیس می کند. اگر خاک رس آنقدر خشک است که خرد می شود، آب بیشتری اضافه کنید. این رایج ترین و آسان ترین روش است.
@@shahdokht4801 من فقط توانستم پیام هایی را که در جریان پخش زنده ارسال کردید ترجمه کنم. ممنون از تشریف فرمایی شما. خوشحالم که بالاخره فیلتر شکن توانست برای شما وصل شود. امیدواریم در آینده همه چیز از نظر دسترسی به اینترنت و دسترسی بدون فیلتر بهبود یابد.
I'm guessing you're talking about the smoothing. I did it here for two reasons. 1) I wanted to demonstrate the smoothing technique on a broad uniform surface. 2) I can never tell if a portion of my lower layer won't be getting an additional layer on top because my face sculpting is fairly spur of the moment. You can just add a small coating on top of any rough layer to smooth down as you please. It's more habit than design for me at this point.
Absolutely. Soaked toilet paper is much better than cellulose fiber or you can pulp newspaper. There are lots of options other than the cellulose fiber. :)
The unit I have is this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYRFH8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has served me well. Just make sure you are letting the tool do the work and not pressing it too hard into the material.
خمیر اتصال دیوار استحکام و استحکام قابل توجهی را به نتیجه نهایی اضافه می کند. همچنین به جلوگیری از تجمع آب در الیاف کاغذ پس از اتمام کمک می کند. شما می توانید آن را طوری تصور کنید که گویی ساختاری را از لایه های چسب پارچه یا از گچ می سازید. یکی بیشتر شبیه سنگ است و دیگری بیشتر مستعد خم شدن و جذب آب است.
من اینجا هرچه قدر تحقیق کردم برای خمیر اتصال چیزی پیدا نکردم اگر دقیقا متوجه بشوم که در ساختمان سازی چه کاربردی دارد حتما میتوانم پیدا کنم این خمیر را. از چند فروشنده که سوال کردم از من پرسیدند که کاربرد این خمیر در ساختمان سازی چیست؟ امیدوارم با سوال هایم شمارو خسته نکرده باشم🙈 من به هنر شما بسیار علاقه مند هستم ومیخواهم حتما درست کنم . ممنون دوست عزیز 🌹🙏❤️
@@marymangano1705 Toilet paper very naturally breaks up into very small cellulose fibers very shortly after you add it to water. When I used it in the past I got myself a strainer and put the TP into it and then wetted it down with tap water. Give it a little time to start breaking down (about a minute if I remember correctly) and then you can grab a handful and squeeze the water out. It should turn into pretty much a paper blob. You can either crumble the paper blob right into paste or crumble it and let it dry out into a 'pulp' that can be readily added to paste later. Check out Joni's video on making paper clay on Ultimate paper mache. I believe she shows the process. Just don't add linseed oil like she does or it will take a small forever to dry. Keep me posted if you have any more questions about it.
Are you in the USA? www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwjv99jR-Of5AhUV-cgKHbB0AVcYABAMGgJxdQ&sig=AOD64_0l0zcFbLPmkmdkRbOq2K2q4kXL6g&ctype=46&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjqns3R-Of5AhVTGFkFHY22CDwQ9aACKAB6BAgBEEU&adurl= , www.lowes.com/pl/Cellulose--Blown-in-insulation-Insulation-accessories-Building-supplies/4294858108?refinement=4294510139
I’m giving it a try but asking if you are no longer using cardboard to bulk up eye and mouth areas like you were doing with trash bag. Is that needed now that you are using clay before cutting out the face? Or with the first layer of paper clay does it give a good base to avoid the cardboard?
How would you compare the beach ball versus trash bag drying time after your layers of mache? My concern is my kiln (broken fridge with light bulb) will reach 100-140 and the beach ball may not handle that heat. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
My extreme apologies. I remember typing a reply to this weeks ago and when I checked this came up in the 'haven't replied section' which boggles my mind. I will attempt to write what I did before. The problem you face here is that even if the ball can handle the heat it will swell with the expanding air and put pressure on your whole inner surface. If things aren't really well layered the swelling ball will likely split both mache and paper clay. I would not use the kiln unless you can control the heat setting with a dimmer switch and go for a lower temperature. Again my apologies to the delay on this response. I have no idea what happened to my initial reply.
@@Drachenfang thanks that what I was thinking. The outside temperature affect the inside temperature wildly. In the summer it can reach 150, now in the fall it struggles to get to 100.
I love to watch you work, I'm new to your channel and it took me only 2 seconds to see that you are a real artist! Amazing job😍
Thanks very much. I enjoy making and hope I can inspire folks to try their hands at mache as well :)
@@Drachenfang I'll definitely give it a go this year! But just a lot more smaller and simpler😁 Here in Finland where I live, the halloween culture is almost nonexistent, so I'm quite sure that I'm going to have the nicest looking fall yard!😁😊
@@kata865 Small starters are the best. Still kinda jealous though. I love the Scandinavian countries though I have only ever been able to visit Iceland.
@@Drachenfang oh yes Iceland is very beautiful I hear! Also Norways mountains and countless rivers are breathtaking. It is beautiful in Finland also, the nature is quite similar with sweden. Culture (especially language) on the other hand are almost completely different to other scandinavian countries😊
@@kata865 I know Finland has quite a different language. I assumed there would be a distinct culture gap as well from my readings of a number of english translated old Norse sagas and histories. I'd enjoy hearing more about it if you are in the mood to discuss, though I understand if you do not want to get pulled into a lengthy online discourse.
I'm so glad I came across your page!! Woohoo I'm excited! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and creativity!!
Always happy to help show people a cool project :)
Hello and thank you for these tutorials, they are fantastic! I have a question about drying time. How many layers of paper do you put on before allowing to dry and for how long?
How long do you give the clay to dry?
🤔.. thank you, Grace
You're very welcome. I will usually put six layers of paper on before letting it dry though I believe you can get away with as few as three. With the paper you want it to dry completely. Honestly though paper sometimes dries within a few hours if you have a fan on it. If you put it outside to dry and live in a hot climate be careful of your beach ball bursting. I always give the clay an 'overnight' to dry (8-12 hours). Thicker layers will take longer to dry completely so never apply too much clay (which is usually about an inch thick layer). It's perfectly fine to build up areas in layers and I do that with my pumpkin eyebrows all the time.
Love this version 2. I must of missed that last year. Totally inspired to give this version go. Have been saving drier lint so is it ok to add that into my clay. ?
I have never been to add dryer lint to my clay but I have been saving it too. I suspect that it will make excellent clay but I have been unable to test it.
These tutorials are awesome, thorough and easy to follow! Do you think regular clay or air dry clay would be too heavy to use or crack easily?
Thanks very much. To answer the question... both honestly. I think that normal clay would be too heavy, too prone to cracking, and more brittle than I would like it to be. There is an experimental clay using portland cement in place of joint compound to make the paper clay waterproof as well as rather dense. The run down for that can be found on a channel called 'Ultimate Paper Mache.' Realistically though if you have regular clay lying around and the capacity to fire it in a kiln you can probably make a pretty good clay pumpkin based on this sculpting concept. Some air dry modeling clays might work but I think that the end product would be annoyingly heavy and clunky to move and store.
درود بر شما
ممنون از آموزش های عالی شما،امکانش هست مواد اولیه خمیر رو بنویسید؟ ❤️🙏
بله خمیر کاغذ خاکی است که مانند ویدیو قبلی درست می شود. در حال حاضر برای سهولت استفاده آن را با دستمال توالت درست می کنم، بنابراین به روزترین روش این است.
دو رول دستمال توالت بردارید، آن ها را خیس کنید تا مانند لجن کاغذی درآیند، بیشتر آب را از دستمال توالت بیرون بیاورید، اما نه آنقدر محکم که لازم باشد دست خود را به شدت خم کنید. کاغذ توالت عمدتاً بدون آب را در ظرفی بریزید که می توانید در آن مخلوط کنید. یک فنجان ترکیب اتصال دیواره خشک به آن اضافه کنید. 3/4 فنجان چسب اضافه کنید. شروع به مخلوط کردن کنید. وقتی خمیر کاغذ، چسب و ترکیب مفصل به خوبی مخلوط شدند، شروع به اضافه کردن آرد کنید و به هم زدن ادامه دهید. آرد اضافه می شود تا زمانی که خاک رس به سختی شروع به چسبندگی به پوست شما می کند، زمانی که قطعه ای را برای نمونه برداری از آن بردارید. بدون آرد فقط پوست شما را خیس می کند. اگر خاک رس آنقدر خشک است که خرد می شود، آب بیشتری اضافه کنید. این رایج ترین و آسان ترین روش است.
مثل همیشه ممنون
@@shahdokht4801 من فقط توانستم پیام هایی را که در جریان پخش زنده ارسال کردید ترجمه کنم. ممنون از تشریف فرمایی شما. خوشحالم که بالاخره فیلتر شکن توانست برای شما وصل شود. امیدواریم در آینده همه چیز از نظر دسترسی به اینترنت و دسترسی بدون فیلتر بهبود یابد.
Why is this step necessary if you’re putting another layer on top of this one?
I'm guessing you're talking about the smoothing. I did it here for two reasons. 1) I wanted to demonstrate the smoothing technique on a broad uniform surface. 2) I can never tell if a portion of my lower layer won't be getting an additional layer on top because my face sculpting is fairly spur of the moment. You can just add a small coating on top of any rough layer to smooth down as you please. It's more habit than design for me at this point.
Hi can I ask if home made paper pulp would work instead of the cellulose fibre?
Absolutely. Soaked toilet paper is much better than cellulose fiber or you can pulp newspaper. There are lots of options other than the cellulose fiber. :)
It actually works
Oh yeah. Best simple sculpt material ever :)
I am going to try this you have inspired me 👍🏼
I'm glad. It's a fun project. :)
Hi
@@cassandraherrington4735 hey there
THIS IS AWESOME!!!
Thanks much. :)
Why not clay directly on beachbal?
You can if you want. I prefer to have better adhesion to the round form as well as have an inside that is smooth and takes paint more readily.
Thank you for your reply.
I hate the papermache part so im gonna try to put masking tape on the beachball so i can start claying immeadiatly 😂
@@mga4268 I can't say I blame you. It takes the longest and is a lot less fun
What drumel do you use for carving? I broke every tool I had trying to carve my last pumpkin
The unit I have is this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYRFH8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has served me well. Just make sure you are letting the tool do the work and not pressing it too hard into the material.
در مورد خمیر اتصال دیوار خشک میشه لطفاً توضیح دهید ؟ که چه کاربردی داره
خمیر اتصال دیوار استحکام و استحکام قابل توجهی را به نتیجه نهایی اضافه می کند. همچنین به جلوگیری از تجمع آب در الیاف کاغذ پس از اتمام کمک می کند. شما می توانید آن را طوری تصور کنید که گویی ساختاری را از لایه های چسب پارچه یا از گچ می سازید. یکی بیشتر شبیه سنگ است و دیگری بیشتر مستعد خم شدن و جذب آب است.
از اینکه وارد پخش زنده شدید و سلام کردید متشکرم. باید منتظر بمانم تا یوتیوب متن چت را به من بدهد تا بتوانم از گوگل برای ترجمه تبریک شما استفاده کنم. 🙂
ممنون از راهنماییتون ،این خمیر در ساختمان سازی چه کاربردی داره ؟
@@shahdokht4801 مشکلی نیست فکر کنم دوبار از یوتیوب همین پیام را دریافت کردم. آیا من به تمام سوالات شما که پرسیده بودید پاسخ دادم؟
من اینجا هرچه قدر تحقیق کردم برای خمیر اتصال چیزی پیدا نکردم اگر دقیقا متوجه بشوم که در ساختمان سازی چه کاربردی دارد حتما میتوانم پیدا کنم این خمیر را.
از چند فروشنده که سوال کردم از من پرسیدند که کاربرد این خمیر در ساختمان سازی چیست؟
امیدوارم با سوال هایم شمارو خسته نکرده باشم🙈
من به هنر شما بسیار علاقه مند هستم ومیخواهم حتما درست کنم .
ممنون دوست عزیز 🌹🙏❤️
Hi, is there some sort of alternative for cellulous fibre? being in Australia, its almost impossible to get. Cheers.
You can make home made paper pulp by putting newspaper in a blender or you can use toilet paper which is even better than cellulose fiber.
@@Drachenfang thanks. I have been using toilet paper. It it’s been harder to find than gold over the last 2 years lol.
@@Drachenfang i'm not sure of how to use the toilet paper for pulp. do you put it in a blender without any liquid. thanks
@@marymangano1705 Toilet paper very naturally breaks up into very small cellulose fibers very shortly after you add it to water. When I used it in the past I got myself a strainer and put the TP into it and then wetted it down with tap water. Give it a little time to start breaking down (about a minute if I remember correctly) and then you can grab a handful and squeeze the water out. It should turn into pretty much a paper blob. You can either crumble the paper blob right into paste or crumble it and let it dry out into a 'pulp' that can be readily added to paste later. Check out Joni's video on making paper clay on Ultimate paper mache. I believe she shows the process. Just don't add linseed oil like she does or it will take a small forever to dry. Keep me posted if you have any more questions about it.
@@Drachenfang thanks so much for your reply. always enjoy watching your videos
Where can I find the cellulose fiber? I can’t find any online thus far
Thanks!
Are you in the USA? www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwjv99jR-Of5AhUV-cgKHbB0AVcYABAMGgJxdQ&sig=AOD64_0l0zcFbLPmkmdkRbOq2K2q4kXL6g&ctype=46&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjqns3R-Of5AhVTGFkFHY22CDwQ9aACKAB6BAgBEEU&adurl= , www.lowes.com/pl/Cellulose--Blown-in-insulation-Insulation-accessories-Building-supplies/4294858108?refinement=4294510139
Yes
2024 do you know where I can get it? Can’t find it on google either only by pallet
I’m giving it a try but asking if you are no longer using cardboard to bulk up eye and mouth areas like you were doing with trash bag. Is that needed now that you are using clay before cutting out the face? Or with the first layer of paper clay does it give a good base to avoid the cardboard?
I've just found that it's really not needed. If you need to bulk up around the eyes, nose, or mouth you can just add more clay.
How would you compare the beach ball versus trash bag drying time after your layers of mache? My concern is my kiln (broken fridge with light bulb) will reach 100-140 and the beach ball may not handle that heat. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
My extreme apologies. I remember typing a reply to this weeks ago and when I checked this came up in the 'haven't replied section' which boggles my mind. I will attempt to write what I did before. The problem you face here is that even if the ball can handle the heat it will swell with the expanding air and put pressure on your whole inner surface. If things aren't really well layered the swelling ball will likely split both mache and paper clay. I would not use the kiln unless you can control the heat setting with a dimmer switch and go for a lower temperature. Again my apologies to the delay on this response. I have no idea what happened to my initial reply.
@@Drachenfang thanks that what I was thinking. The outside temperature affect the inside temperature wildly. In the summer it can reach 150, now in the fall it struggles to get to 100.
Do you sell your pumpkins?
I do not but I know someone who does: facebook.com/wickedvinedesigns/
You're SO handsome ❤
Thank you. :)