GAPTIZE YOUR JUNK? THE AP FOR GAP!
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- Опубліковано 29 бер 2020
- DIY TURBO LOW-BUCK MODS FOR BOOST. Do you gap before Takin' That Fool to Gapple Bees. Gaptize a Junkyard Turbo Motor? What is ring gap, why is it important and why do you increase when running boost? Do Junkyard motors need extra ring gap? Can you just boost and FULL SEND? Ring Gap-What it is, When and Why You Need it. Naturally we also cover how much you might need.
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This man literally changed my sleep schedule lol.
I used to eat, breathe, and sleep this stuff....now I can't even sleep
Same man same
Same
Its the straight forwardness for me, no bs!
Yup
If your ring gap is too big only you will know. If your ring gap is too small everyone will know.
Funny cause it's true!
justin parks Not always. I had a guy come into a shop I worked at years ago with a fresh build that wouldn’t start. Apparently he confused 30 thousandths with 3 tenths. Over 1/4 inch ring gap, zero compression. We all had a good laugh over it.
Lol! Words to build by! 👍
Unless we see ya burnin oil
Adam R imagine using a piece of keystock to measure your ring gap 😂
Who would want to argue with a man that has put on so many dyno hours? This is a college professor passing on the wisdom. I appreciate the lessons of your hard work.
Thanks for the videos Richard.
Hell yes
I love your in-depth explanations, not very many youtubers take their time with explaining all the little details like how you do. much appreciated! Have a Great day!!
Richard gettin’ people learned again.
Biggest takeaway:
Heat closes ring gap; not boost. Closed ring gap is a bigger destroyer of pistons than power.
Boost makes heat, closes ring gap.
Biggest takeaway:
We never do what we say we're going to do....because boost is addictive
Power is heat, the more power a engine makes the more heat it makes, the more heat the more components expand like rings and tolerances close, I even increased bearing tolerances.
@@fascistpedant758 - that is shallow and incorrect. Cooled boost reduces heat under same given load, therefore boost does not create heat. Heat produced depends engine build, tuning, timing, fuel ratio, fuel type, ambient temperature, what you are doing with the motor, along with about 20 more variables. I tow heavy with a 2005 Dodge 5.9 Cummins at 600 hp, 1200 ftlbs torque and under 1400 deg egt. Stock would run 1450-1500 deg and 250 hp on dyno. I guess the name says it all...
@@Faolan161 "Under same given load" higher "cooled boost" pressure means greater mass air flow and leaner AFR's. A leaner AFR produces lower combustion temperatures. If you're running larger injectors, "under same given load", injection time will be shorter than that of the stock engine, also probably reducing EGT's. A gasoline engine producing More power at higher boost is quite different from a Diesel engine "under Same given load" at higher boost. With all the many variables being equal, higher boost produces more heat.
Had a LQ4 in my trans am and never gapped the rings. Kept creeping the boost up over time. Now the car is apart because I broke a ring land. Been apart for months. Had I gapped the rings I would likely still be driving the car and having a good ol time. Lesson learned. GAP THE RINGS GUYS ITS WORTH THE EXTRA FEW HOURS
Shannon Sisk did you check the gap after taking the failures motor apart? I broke the top ring land on my piston (gen 4 5.7) and when I checked the gap, it was .025 on the top ring. Likely detonation caused my issue.
Unfortunately ring gap won't cure detonation
TravisT TURBO GTO I did not check the gap. 15 degrees of timing on e85, although it was 11:1 compression. Who knows....it made 800whp so I would think it was heat related in the cylinder.
I picture Richard dressed as an old prophet telling us the unforseen future of many combos to help us. This man could put all his works together and call it performance bible.
It's like sitting talking to a buddy waiting for the BBQ to heat up.
Keep up the good work, I've learned more from your videos than I could ever imagine
And you just burnt your steak watching the vid..
I think after watching this i am going to go out and widen my gaps slightly before i put the heads back on. I'm around .024 on both top and bottom.
Edit: Done. Added gap. Now around .028 in all bores. Worth the little extra work now to maybe save the engine later.
Ya need Clearance Clarence, one of the absolute most important things in engine building
Wow - I've seen this explained a dozen different ways, but your approach is fantastic. I've been away from the engine building world for a number of years and this was a fantastic refresher.
I love this mans content always so in depth with knowledge keep it up !!
Love learning something new everyday about these engines, and power adders. Thanks Richard!
I love watching his videos and jotting down a lot of vital information he gives
Thank you for your knowledge Richard! You've been very helpful with my engine decisions.
I love learning while being entertained. WIN - WIN.👌🏻😊👍🏻
One of the best vids you have done in respect to how important it is to check dimensions on a boosted motor, or any motor for that matter. I have learned this the hard way in the past. Excellent video.
I am here for facts! Thank you for making these videos. I have learned so much from you!
Thanks for putting this videos together, I've learned alot from them and all your content. Great job!!
Nice change from just seeing charts. Would be nice if you could do other basic topics that most of us aren't exposed to every day like how to size a wastegate or BOV.
This is one of the best videos done on these engines. It explains why one fellow can make a claim about an engine the rest of us think is BS--that fellow lucked out on the ring gap. I also liked that you pointed out the variable--E85 cools the incoming charge, that a nine second car isn't beating its engine to death all nine seconds, and so on.
Thank you Richard for all the information you give us budget build guys about the new style factory engines
I’m up every morning between 3-5am waiting for the next video to drop 👍🏾 thanks Richard
Commenting then sharing with myself. This channel needs more love !
So glad you made this video. Trying to explain this to some young rich kid roll racing and blaming the shop for there car blowing up was next to impossible. I think you explained it the best.
Outstanding chat! Very interesting stuff shoved in a short amount of time.
The most honest and informative guy out there just my opinion
Thanks for sharing your knowledge sir. I want you to know that some people out here really do appreciate what you do. Some people would take all this valuable information to the grave with them or charge lots of money to tell someone, but you are here spoon-feeding it to us.
I used to steal wine coolers from my parents too. :P
Seriously though, I love your videos. I'm a water-cooled VW 4 cylinder guy and everything is relatable if you actually understand the data and what's being said. It's why I also love Engine Masters on MTOD. Accurate data is the best thing!
Thank you Rich, your explanation of whatever topic you are talking about makes sense because you explain it in simple english, it's exactly what us diy mechanics need, I'm hooked on your channel, keep bringing more HEMI content please.
Your the Man Brother Richard! When I grew up everything was Bolt On trial and error, Now we watch Dr Richard's Video's and no more Trial and Error, just results! Thank You so Much!
You're completely right on all accounts. Boost is very addictive. x lbs is never enough once it works. 95% of failures I've seen on the BMW N54 engines look like rings closing.
Your description when adding boost is perfect. Yeah 6psi is all I’m going to run.... nek minit 15psi aaaand bang.
Lol! I can TOTALLY see myself in that comment!
You from nz?
Aussie bro
I will always thumbs up transparency and dialogue that provides data for the receiver to interpret. Thank you Richard
You're very knowledgeable and logical. I like that, keep it coming! 🦧
Thanks Richard, awesome as always.
I remember an old, old article about the effects of ring gap on static compression and power and what they found was there was almost no difference up to .050! (They took it to the extreme)
It also mentioned that losses in power from a lack of compression and blow by was mainly from a loss in ring tension, due usually to wear.
I think you are the first that dared to suggest either of these statements are true.
I'll be adding ring gap, not going to miss out on that insurance policy lol.
I ran a few of these before and after -no change in power curve
The loss of tension on a piston ring is more due to heat and cycling, than just general wear.
Where's the damn LOVE button?! 👌
I love everything u do with all of it. Keep up exactly what ur doing.... And u do offer a lot, knowledge man .. a lot...
And it's like playing the lottery running a J.Y. motor on any kind of forced induction...
Excellent job explaining the importance of ring gap. This is the reason so many viewers should subscribe to this channel. Great job Mr. Holdener
Yesss the video I have been waiting for!! Thank you Richard.
This is reassuring. I just rebuilt my engine and set the ring gaps to .035". Was a bit worried I had gone to far
Proper end gap varies with bore size...
One size does NOT fit all..
I LITERALLY DID THIS THE SAME DAY YOU UPLOADED THIS ON MY 5.3
JUST PUT UP MY VID
.0025" on the top
.0026/7 on the 2nd ring
Good very informative video. I already had an understanding of gap but many don't. Thank you for making this video.
background sounds of birds singing is very pleasant. great video too ofc!
I fully expected Richard to say that when the rings heat up and expand until the gap closes that the problem is actually from when they continue to expand. Once they've lost all expansion room and continue to expand they both distort and increase pressure on the cylinder wall and that is what causes them to seize, start breaking things and ruin your day.
The clarification that it is cylinder/ring temperature that determines the ring gap needed rather than boost level is an important thing for people to understand.
As always good information.
clarified that many, many times
Once the ring end gaps butt, it's not just drag in the cylinder that hurts the piston, BUT it's ALSO the fact then when the ring end gaps butt together, the ring itself WILL turn into a "cup shape" when it can't expand anymore (it has to go somewhere) and then it puts extreme vertical pressure between the ring lands and can actually pop a chunk of piston off the edge of the top of it that is the exact width of the ring land.
Thank you Richard! I'm amazed how much the 'old school' hot rodding taboos have been crushed. These day, based on your videos, purchase a junkyard engine, with 100K plus miles(km), gap rings, boost and enjoy. I question if the taboos were based on lack of knowledge, experience, poorer quality parts, the effects of carburetors washing down cylinder walls, or if the credit belongs to great engineering & science.
At a guess I'd say a combination of quality & technology. Never seen a SBC with 100k on them that got rebuilt didn't get at least a .10 overbore. Also needed to be decked just to square them up. Even a New Crate Longblock needs to be decked. Casting technology and material strength has come a long way. Add in the efficiency difference of the SBC & LS and 100k just doesn't effect the LS the same. Even maintenance, or lack there of, has a different effect.
I can remember when an engine was considered junk because it had over 90k miles on it!!! Lol
@@kevinshiley9061 Even before that in many cases.
Thanks for that. I appreciate all the knowledge you bring to your channel. I'm subscribed and sharing the content.
There's not many people doing testing on the 2.0 duratec engine's in the Ford focus. This video just helped me out. Keep up the awesome work. Thank you sir.
Can you cover plugs for racing vs daily driver? That'd answer a bunch of questions for me for sure!
add plug indexing to
on an NGK, the last number is the heat number. for a street/strip daily driver, use a #5 in the 500hp range, a#6 in the 600 range, and a 7 im the 700 range. anything more than that is not a street strip daily driver, and should be dictated by your tuner.
@@Hijunk71 indexing puts the strap away from the crown of the piston in extreme cases where there is a negative deck clearance. Our 397 sbf is such an example of a case where stock deck height blocks are required, yet you want as much displacement for obvious reasons. Google car craft samtech mustang article. 906 hp all throttle no bottle baby
Good video timing. I'm in the process of gapping the rings on my 5.3l whilst in lock down in England. I've gone for .025 top ring and .028 second ring.
I thought the top ring needed more because it's hotter (closer to combustion chamber)?
@@kevin9c1 that's what I thought but when I checked online it seemed that people are setting the bottom ring larger.
The theory with a larger second ring gap is to bleed the pressure between the rings so the top ring seals better.
@@bartpang top ring flutter. Old school. I believe it has been disproved.
@@bartpang If that were true wouldn't it be better to just not have the second ring?
Gorgeous Turbo! Thank you for all the info.
Keep making them videos like every single one of them. Thank you for all the i formation all your hard work and dedication thank you!
You mean roll racing on the freeway "in Mexico "😉
where ever you roll
Not anymore buddy, Mexico is closed!!😄
Very informative. I am in Australia and have a little 3L diesel 1KD 4 Cyl in my Toyota Hilux (pickup) tow vehicle. It's nearly impossible to get the big diesels you guys have with-out spending $160,000 for a ram 3500 or something.
It's got a bigger custom made variable geometry turbo, bigger injectors, intercooler, tuned at 36psi of boost. It makes 750nm of torque and 325hp at the wheels, stock was 90hp, 280nm.
I cracked a piston towing my caravan a few months back because my model of engine has a common piston cracking issue. Toyota actually redesigned the piston in the model after mine due to this.
My Hilux is currently with my mechanic getting the engine pulled out and taken to the machine shop for all stronger internals. Should I ask for larger ring gap or just let the machine shop do their thing?
Also why do people not redo ring gap.. I have blown 2 engines due to ring gap because I have no issue doing an engine swap in a car or bolting a turbo kit to an engine but I would never try and pull an engine down to file down the rings as I have no idea what I am doing. I would have to take it to a workshop and pay like $3000 to get them to do it. Even for an LS guy, you can buy 3 LS motors for the cost of a workshop filing down your rings. The engines I blew up were $500 engine... why spend $3000 getting the ring gap increased on a $500 engine. A guy gave me an engine for free if I would take it out for him. I ran 12second passes on that little 3L straight 6 before breaking the pistons. Pull the bolt-ons off, swap the engine out.
The bottom end bearings went in my wife ford focus, I was quoted $6000 to pull the motor out and replace the bottom end bearings. I paid $500 for another engine and swapped it in my self in 1 day.
Thank you Richard that was awesome you always teach me a lot of stuff.
Having this much knowledge is amazing! The willingness and enthusiasm to share it is world class! I’m lost for words, thank you is trivial to the multi hundreds of hours of work for these test and reports and to literary hand it to us? Amazing! My friends won’t even let each other LIIK UNDER THEIR HOODS!!! Lmao Ritchard Holdener for President!!!
Hey Richard, love all the daily content! Question for you: when you reuse the stock piston rings do you ball hone the cylinders or just run them as is?
If your cylinder walls still have the cross hatch you dont have to. But I see it as, you've got the pistons out...might as well.
There is also the additional R&R of the crank, cost of the ball hone (when I looked it was about $100 for a 4 inch one), and my biggest concern is that people talk about the rings seating/sealing properly in the bore, but when you hone the cylinder wall you've now erased that complementary mating surface.
@@nowayjose596 if you use say a 320 or 400 grit hone then the rings seat almost instantly.
Possibly even during assembly when lashing valves.
alot of guys that run very very fast stuff polish all the cross hatch out on purpose and have very good luck with it so i really dont think it matters
I would run a hone through, but I prefer stones. You don't absolutely have to remove the crankshaft.
Loving it 🙂
My question would be to keep a motor safe and happy , would it be better to run a temp sensor in each primary exhaust tube or an 02 sensor?
Love your videos Richard!!!!!
individual sensors provide more data and more info is always better-just like more gap
02 reacts faster
I love your dogs appearances Love it And you have very very very informative content , thanks for taking time to do all this
I’ve always wondered about this. Thanks for the intel!
The sun is in your eyes, Richard. Lol
I'm not going down for gapital punishment, because I UN-gapitized a engine under boost! That boost is like a volume knob, just one more cliickk! Or click click BOOM!
this channel always has the best info! really is helping with my build
Thx for the info! You do so much for all of us! Your my hero!!!!
7:32 scared the absolute shit out of me
If this guy gets any cooler I'm going to start feeling bad about myself, That's saying something" Because most people kinda get on my nerves. If he would have been my teacher in school" Man I would be like a double Ott spy and have my own cement pond.
This is the best turbo channep in UA-cam
Yay ring gap. Taking it apart is my favorite part
I wish you covered gap less rings. Love your vids Richard.
Those work too-they have gap-it just over laps
Great video again! I tow with my turbo 07 Silverado classic everyday for work. My goal was to run a small turbo (67/65) and low boost (6-7psi) for low end torque. My truck had almost exactly 200k miles when I turbocharged it, I didn't touch the motor except for valve springs. That was 3+ years ago and now I have 260k+ miles on the truck with no motor issues. Now I run a richer afr and a little more conservative timing than most would but I've been on the highway under boost for minutes at a time with no ill effect. My point is that if you're going to run the tune at the maximum edge, ring gap seems more important. If you're more conservative on timing and use a richer afr, ring gap may not be as critical? That's just my experience but I'm not a pro!
Side note I would like to know the ring gap on motors with over 200k miles compared to a new production motor. Have there been really tight gaps on high mileage motors?
A 200K+ junkyard motor gaps are usually .022" - 028". They may vary that much in the same motor. It's the guys taking a 100K motor and putting some steam to without proper setup (ring gap, etc.) that exposes issues. Detonation is another element that seems to create many problems with boosted setups and self tuning.
What's the most you've towed with and gow did it tow?
@@kevinmcquitery4543 I've had 10k on the back and it does great for what it is, but it's no diesel. I want to put a significant load behind my turbo gasser and my buddies diesel and compare 5-30 times, mpg, and general power, I think that would be a interesting video 👍
Yes, you're correct..
Being conservative on the a/f ratio and timing will definitely benefit an engine that was a factory non-turbo application, and has stock ring gaps still.
MANY people have busted rung lands on LS engines with stock gaps because their tune wasn't spot on, and they pushed it, while other people have made around the same power with ZERO issues because their tune was perfect.
Thanks this was super helpful. Never paid enough attention too this.
Great information Richard, Thank you for the video.
I'm here for boost lovers anonymous
You've come to the right place
Where do I sign up....smh.
Currently running 22 psi on a wrx 2.0l and wanting MORE boost!!!
30 will be ok right??.. its only 8 more??
Of course 30 psi is good! Sometimes half the fun is seeing how much carnage happens. Unless you are doing 120 mph thru a corner...
@@greggreg6975 if you want more upgrade to a 2.5 with vvt.
@@Faolan161 lol... did that at the track last weekend.. apparently free boosting a td04 is a bad idea..
I've been hoping for this one. I've also been wondering how Total Seal rings react to boost. You can't really adjust the gap on those, can You?
All rings can be clearanced
gapless rings still have gap-they just overlap
Just the info I was looking for, THANKS
Thermal expansion, thanks Richard for the good info.
Feel free to flame me for my ignorance. When He says "cam, springs and boost" He means valve springs, right?
yes-valve springs-no flaming here
All the ring gap for boat motors🙄
Great info as always. Might do a how to gap rings video down the road for people that never have done it before.
Richard u are a wealth of information about the truth of auto engine building
Personally I blame squirrels
Those bastards
john woodworth : Word. So true. Worth the words in the woods.Your still not wrong. Peace!
So you're gapping top AND second ring .0065 per inch of bore?
we did on the big bang motors
Richard Holdener how about for 6.0 on high boost?
You make a good point about "what if I add another few lbs boost?".... guess I should heed and pull the 523 before I have a wild hair and boost it up... ring gapped for low boost, but I tow heavy as well....
Great info Richard! I appreciate your info!!
Cheers!
another great video. always informative.
There are gapless rings.
Total Seal and Childs and Albert. ;)
Boost is not that addictive, I can quit anytime I want.
Thanks Richard... You're a 💎
Great video! Well done!
100% SPOT ON! Thank you for the great information! You have to adjust ring gap to match the ring / piston temp that you are creating using boost! I keep telling people this but they don't want to hear it! Nothing is better than a little super simple insurance by disassembling the lower end, adjusting ring gap and THEN boosting, when it comes to your engine! Great Job RIchard!
Bore size comes into play also...
What works for a 3.85" bore is NOT going to be correct for a 4.125" bore, even if the rings are used in the exact same environment and application.
Thanks again for another common sense video on an important topic.
This is the one I’ve been waiting for.
Thx - great vid & reminder. If this gets people to tear down their engines, congrats! I have learned to ALWAYS dig in. I want to check bearings, quick hone cylinders, tweak pan baffle, de-burr rods. I've got a pal that can ceramic top my pistons. If I have the money, I have the crank balanced and journaled. I never regret that time/money. Eliminating variables in the long block is essential, in my book
Thanks for the info, good stuff as usual.
Really valuable information . Thanks 😊
Your tests are great thank you brother 👍
Thanks for this ! You answered a lot of questions for me.
Well the funny thing is that in a Manual car the boost is self limiting because our clutches just can't handle outside their power limit. If you took you 7PSI to 16 PSI and don't replace your clutch properly you will know pretty much after the first rip.. you will need a new clutch. I am still working on trying to figure out super charger or a pair of cheap turbos.. also love the fact you did the silver state challenge. I was, more than a decade ago going to take my GTO to that. I know this is a year old video but this is a critical video. May it get even more resurrected views.
the Tokyo Trans Am @ 14:51!!!???? Hell ya!
Really enjoy your videos. No bullshit. Love it.
Thank you for using the correct terminology, ie, wrecking yard rather than junkyard.