Having already done this on my own Chally, it's much easier to to drop the exhaust & the driveshaft. Just loosen the clamps at the X-pipe, & the remove the 13mm bolts at the hangers. The time it takes to do that is worth it to save on struggling with the trans. Also, having a 2nd person to assist is also a life saver. As for the shifter, it's much easier to remove from the top. Just remove the 2 pins at the front, & unbolt the linkage from the top of the trans. Then you can slide the whole thing forward, out of the stabilizer at the back. No need to disconnect it or the actual stick. I also found it easier to just disconnect the bell housing, & drop it out with the trans. No need to remove that little cover either. You can also leave the starter sitting on top of the sub-frame/sway bar, as it's not in the way at all. That McLeod RXT clutch is beast! Great clutch but it is running about $1500 give or take, depending on where you get it from. I have yet to see a good quality clutch come with a new throw-out bearing. Also, with Challengers, you have to replace the entire hydraulic release mechanism. Don't be cheap, replace that pilot bearing! It'll save you from more trouble in the future. Also put a little lube on the input shaft before trying to install the trans. From the looks of that input shaft, it looks like the pilot bearing is already bad. Looks like there's a groove in the shaft. That can cause issues with shifting if not repaired. That should be fixed prior to re-installing the trans. If the input shaft doesn't go in easily, you may need to put a jack under the back of the engine to lift it & get the trans in line. Also, if you're not replacing the driveshaft bolts with new OEM ones, be sure to use some blue threadlocker on them. As for bleeding the clutch, it'll take 50 or more pedal depresses to build pressure. It would also be a good idea to do a brake fluid flush at the same time, since the master cylinder is shared between the brakes & the clutch. I'd highly recommend some high temp fluid such as Wilwood EXP 600 Plus, especially if you have the multi-piston Brembos. Two bottles should be enough to do a complete flush & refill.
@@quychang4471 You're more than welcome, & happy to help! There is a hydraulic throw out bearing that you should replace at the same time that you're replacing the clutch. 👍🏼 Speaking of the throw out bearing, there's a "clutch delay valve" that you should remove from the new throw out bearing before install. All it takes to remove it is a 2-3" screw. Just turn it in by hand, & then pull the whole thing out. You can find some videos here on YT about it. ✌🏼
Yo bro been trying to get my tranny out on my hellcat and it has been a tough job. I did the same process as this video trying to separate the tranny from the bell housing but seems one dowel is stuck in there or something. So I was thinking about bolting that back to the bell housing and then dropping the tranny with the bell on it. Is it really hard to get to the bolts at the top of the bell housing? I'm on jack stands so it's a hard life out here. I will also be replacing the pilot bearing. Do I need one of those harbor freight pullers or is there something better? Also gunna do the rear main seal on the crank. Might as well since the transmissions out I guess.@@DJGRoc
@@igsSakeBombz I used all the extensions that I had to get the top most bolts on the bell housing. A lil trick that helped me was too put a jack under the back of the engine, & lift it a lil bit. I assume you already disconnected the shifter, so then it's a matter of removing the trans support bracket & wiggling the trans backwards. You'll want a jack or something under it of course. A pry bar can be helpful to break the bell housing free. If you're gonna take the bell housing with the trans, you're gonna need to remove the starter. As for the pilot bearing, you will need a race puller. That or you can do the bread method. The latter is a bit messy though. I did mine on jack stands also, so I feel your pain. I'm doing suspension & axles now. Still on jack stands.
hey thanks man, the block under the engine helped me keep it lined up and I was able to break the housing finally. Now just gotta wiggle the spindle out.
To say this video was helpful would be quite the understatement! Very good video! The details were most helpful. I'm putting a '12 together that I bought in pieces. This shows in detail where all the pieces go, bolts, torques even those little clips. I am using a Hellcat factory clutch as mine is a factory R/T. Thank you!
Dude thanks for the video. Definitely the most detailed and best video quality repair tutorial. I feel confident that i can now replace my own clutch and save same$$$. Thanks again!
Very good video. I enjoyed it. My critique is of the flywheel, it has hot spots and looks like some scoring, especially bcuz of the condition of the clutch. Personally, I always resurface it when doing clutches. Excellent tutorial though.
If you're putting in an OEM clutch, you'll want to resurface the flywheel for sure. With the McLeod RST/RXT, it has its own friction plate that bolts to the flywheel, so no need to remove the flywheel for resurfacing. When I did mine, I actually put in an aluminum flywheel.
Agreed. That friction surface is burnt. The flywheel should be pulled and resurfaced. Even with the dual-disc the front disc still engages the flywheel. Id be very surprised if the wasn't engagement chatter.
This video is amazing you’re a great person, I have a question, my throw out bearing went out which is why I’m pulling the trans, the clutch was replaced by a shop about a year ago and I just went to pull the pins from the shifter linkage and one of the two lower pins was never put back by the shop, do you think that could be a reason for my TOB going out? I have no idea where to get a new one or where to even start
Dude thanks for the video. I'm pretty confident in my ability, but I always prefer to get a good look/familiar with the job ahead of time... All I can say is I really hope I don't have to pull my long tubes lol
The bleeding method I’m going to try it I noticed after a month of not driving it park in my garage one day I tried starting it up I noticed the clutch was very soft I knew it was air in my clutch lines I’ll update if the 200 pumps will make it back stiff or not
I am doing a cam shaft swap on my scat at home. I do not have much confidence in the Booz bags mechanics around. Here. I work on cars regularly such as full break jobs Water pump replacements and so on but never done a cam job. Any advise ?
Great video, very well explained. Thank you for your sharing I would like to start the clutch centering device, but I can't find anything Can you send me a link or a reference? THANKS
I can't figure out why you pulled the shift knob... In hindsight, would you skip that, if you had to do it again? Were the linkages in the way? ... I have one of these on deck, for my lift. And I'm just curious about that one detail.
Hey im doing this job now on my 2010 . Other than some minor chamges do i have to loosen the motor mounts ? Or can i take it out without loosening them ? Great video btw 💪💪
@@rssdefensecorp777 I take it that you already have the unlocked PCM? Yeah, I've been having a hard time trying to find a tuner that's near me. I don't want a penpal tuner.
I dunno what he charged his customer, but the first time I had a shop do mine they charged me over $1200 in labor & had my car all day. They didn't even bleed the clutch properly. I bought the clutch myself beforehand for like $1700 with the pilot bearing, & even bought new OEM flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts from the dealer for something like $150. I got them because the Hays Dragonclaw clutch kit came with a new flywheel. This is why I did it myself the next time, & had to buy a new flywheel as the shop didn't give me any of the old parts back.
A couple questions, 1: How hard would it be to replace the flywheel beyond what you did? 2: How hard would it be to disassemble everything again after you put the locktite on? Just curious if you would be able to remove those bolts with a wrench again or if you're permanently screwed (no puns intended). Thanks in advance!
There's two kinds of loc-tite. I believe the one used here is the semi permanent kind. You'll most likely need to put some elbow grease into breaking it free but it'll come out again.
The flywheel isn't that difficult at all. There are 8 bolts to remove from the crankshaft. Just need a screwdriver or something to hold it from spinning. With blue Locktite/threadlock, you can break them free with a little elbow grease. Red Locktite/threadlock on the other hand requires that you heat the bolts to a certain temp before trying to break them loose. If you don't, you'll probably shear the bolts off before they break loose.
This is hands down one of the absolutely best automotive instructional videos I have ever seen.
Thanks for the video man. Whoever the driver is has zero business being behind the wheel of a manual.
That's a real dad letting his son join in on work. I must subscribe
Having already done this on my own Chally, it's much easier to to drop the exhaust & the driveshaft. Just loosen the clamps at the X-pipe, & the remove the 13mm bolts at the hangers. The time it takes to do that is worth it to save on struggling with the trans. Also, having a 2nd person to assist is also a life saver. As for the shifter, it's much easier to remove from the top. Just remove the 2 pins at the front, & unbolt the linkage from the top of the trans. Then you can slide the whole thing forward, out of the stabilizer at the back. No need to disconnect it or the actual stick. I also found it easier to just disconnect the bell housing, & drop it out with the trans. No need to remove that little cover either. You can also leave the starter sitting on top of the sub-frame/sway bar, as it's not in the way at all.
That McLeod RXT clutch is beast! Great clutch but it is running about $1500 give or take, depending on where you get it from. I have yet to see a good quality clutch come with a new throw-out bearing. Also, with Challengers, you have to replace the entire hydraulic release mechanism. Don't be cheap, replace that pilot bearing! It'll save you from more trouble in the future. Also put a little lube on the input shaft before trying to install the trans.
From the looks of that input shaft, it looks like the pilot bearing is already bad. Looks like there's a groove in the shaft. That can cause issues with shifting if not repaired. That should be fixed prior to re-installing the trans. If the input shaft doesn't go in easily, you may need to put a jack under the back of the engine to lift it & get the trans in line. Also, if you're not replacing the driveshaft bolts with new OEM ones, be sure to use some blue threadlocker on them.
As for bleeding the clutch, it'll take 50 or more pedal depresses to build pressure. It would also be a good idea to do a brake fluid flush at the same time, since the master cylinder is shared between the brakes & the clutch. I'd highly recommend some high temp fluid such as Wilwood EXP 600 Plus, especially if you have the multi-piston Brembos. Two bottles should be enough to do a complete flush & refill.
That was some great knowledge. I was wondering where the master was for the clutch slave and you saved me some time.
@@quychang4471 You're more than welcome, & happy to help! There is a hydraulic throw out bearing that you should replace at the same time that you're replacing the clutch. 👍🏼
Speaking of the throw out bearing, there's a "clutch delay valve" that you should remove from the new throw out bearing before install. All it takes to remove it is a 2-3" screw. Just turn it in by hand, & then pull the whole thing out. You can find some videos here on YT about it. ✌🏼
Yo bro been trying to get my tranny out on my hellcat and it has been a tough job. I did the same process as this video trying to separate the tranny from the bell housing but seems one dowel is stuck in there or something. So I was thinking about bolting that back to the bell housing and then dropping the tranny with the bell on it. Is it really hard to get to the bolts at the top of the bell housing? I'm on jack stands so it's a hard life out here. I will also be replacing the pilot bearing. Do I need one of those harbor freight pullers or is there something better? Also gunna do the rear main seal on the crank. Might as well since the transmissions out I guess.@@DJGRoc
@@igsSakeBombz I used all the extensions that I had to get the top most bolts on the bell housing. A lil trick that helped me was too put a jack under the back of the engine, & lift it a lil bit. I assume you already disconnected the shifter, so then it's a matter of removing the trans support bracket & wiggling the trans backwards. You'll want a jack or something under it of course. A pry bar can be helpful to break the bell housing free. If you're gonna take the bell housing with the trans, you're gonna need to remove the starter.
As for the pilot bearing, you will need a race puller. That or you can do the bread method. The latter is a bit messy though.
I did mine on jack stands also, so I feel your pain. I'm doing suspension & axles now. Still on jack stands.
hey thanks man, the block under the engine helped me keep it lined up and I was able to break the housing finally. Now just gotta wiggle the spindle out.
To say this video was helpful would be quite the understatement! Very good video! The details were most helpful. I'm putting a '12 together that I bought in pieces. This shows in detail where all the pieces go, bolts, torques even those little clips. I am using a Hellcat factory clutch as mine is a factory R/T. Thank you!
This video just helped me and my dad swap the clutch in my challenger RT. Thank you!!
Thanks for the great instructional. I feel confident enough to tackle this project when my clutch dies. Thanks for your hard work and long hours.
Dude thanks for the video. Definitely the most detailed and best video quality repair tutorial. I feel confident that i can now replace my own clutch and save same$$$. Thanks again!
My neck is sore just watching this. Awesome vid
Great quality of video and tutorial. I replaced my stock with a Barton shifter from inside the cabin
You’re about to save me a lot of money you magnificent bastard you!
Glad i was able to help you out with that!
If the quote is 3 hours, someone of my skill level can expect three days and bloody knuckles
Great job man, definitely one of the most detailed repairs I've seen. Keep it up man, your doing great!
Thanks man I appreciate it!
Bro putting in mad skills 🤙🏿🏆
Dude thank you so much for this, it helped a lot!
Great content, very informative on a badass Muscle Car.
Very good video. I enjoyed it. My critique is of the flywheel, it has hot spots and looks like some scoring, especially bcuz of the condition of the clutch. Personally, I always resurface it when doing clutches. Excellent tutorial though.
This clutch set up has its own flywheel its a complete kit. It's meant to be bolted to the old flywheel without resurfacing
If you're putting in an OEM clutch, you'll want to resurface the flywheel for sure. With the McLeod RST/RXT, it has its own friction plate that bolts to the flywheel, so no need to remove the flywheel for resurfacing. When I did mine, I actually put in an aluminum flywheel.
Agreed. That friction surface is burnt. The flywheel should be pulled and resurfaced. Even with the dual-disc the front disc still engages the flywheel. Id be very surprised if the wasn't engagement chatter.
This video is amazing you’re a great person, I have a question, my throw out bearing went out which is why I’m pulling the trans, the clutch was replaced by a shop about a year ago and I just went to pull the pins from the shifter linkage and one of the two lower pins was never put back by the shop, do you think that could be a reason for my TOB going out? I have no idea where to get a new one or where to even start
Dude thanks for the video. I'm pretty confident in my ability, but I always prefer to get a good look/familiar with the job ahead of time... All I can say is I really hope I don't have to pull my long tubes lol
The bleeding method I’m going to try it I noticed after a month of not driving it park in my garage one day I tried starting it up I noticed the clutch was very soft I knew it was air in my clutch lines I’ll update if the 200 pumps will make it back stiff or not
Why split the box for the bellhousing? Van the 2 not come off together like any other box?
Gracias por el video ,muy bien explicado te mereces 5*
Great video. I won't be attempting this. But I know if I needed to that I could!!
I am doing a cam shaft swap on my scat at home. I do not have much confidence in the Booz bags mechanics around. Here. I work on cars regularly such as full break jobs
Water pump replacements and so on but never done a cam job.
Any advise ?
Great video, very well explained.
Thank you for your sharing
I would like to start the clutch centering device, but I can't find anything
Can you send me a link or a reference?
THANKS
Can you help how need adjustment clutch pedal
Disconnect the battery? Are you welding on the frame?
Great vid bro , definitely going to be using this vid to help me do my one 👍
Thank you glad it helped
I can't figure out why you pulled the shift knob... In hindsight, would you skip that, if you had to do it again? Were the linkages in the way? ... I have one of these on deck, for my lift. And I'm just curious about that one detail.
It's made it easier for me. Just watch the video on how I pulled it out
Actually, you don't even need to remove the shifter at all. Just remove the 2 pins at the front, & the 10mm bolt holding the linkage to the trans.
1:17:35
Bleed clutch
Take it from me you most definitely need that clutch alignment tool lol
Your boy needs a super detail on the mopar.
I hear you on that
Pulling the exhaust and using your legs as leverage...on jack stands, very brave man!
I am. Lol
Damn the most important part it’s sped up when reinstalling the trans 1:01:23 🥺 I’m stuck right there
This guy is on point
Great job, but the fly wheel is whats on the engine side.
Thank you! Glad it helped. Yes that is correct
thank you so much man
56:08
Reinstall trany
How much did you charge?
That’s a legit video
I just replaced clutch but now car won’t start, any ideas what could be causing that?
Check your connection for your starter
Where’s your shop?
Hey im doing this job now on my 2010 . Other than some minor chamges do i have to loosen the motor mounts ? Or can i take it out without loosening them ? Great video btw 💪💪
Whre are you located? I need someone replace my clutch in ilinois or around ilinois please for my challenger srt
I'm located in California
Doing a cam job the one and only video showed hot to get this car on jack stands
Watch the "Budget Challenger Build" series on here from Reignited - Cycle and Automotive.
@@DJGRoc I did I finished camming it
Watch it on my UA-cam
@@rssdefensecorp777 Congrats! How'd it work out?
@@DJGRoc great just need to learn tuning
This tuners are charging arms and legs
@@rssdefensecorp777 I take it that you already have the unlocked PCM? Yeah, I've been having a hard time trying to find a tuner that's near me. I don't want a penpal tuner.
Hi Jacob, Great video. How much did the replacement cost the customer? Parts and Labor? Have RT 5.7 and mine is showing first signs of a wear.
I dunno what he charged his customer, but the first time I had a shop do mine they charged me over $1200 in labor & had my car all day. They didn't even bleed the clutch properly. I bought the clutch myself beforehand for like $1700 with the pilot bearing, & even bought new OEM flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts from the dealer for something like $150. I got them because the Hays Dragonclaw clutch kit came with a new flywheel. This is why I did it myself the next time, & had to buy a new flywheel as the shop didn't give me any of the old parts back.
What caused the clutch to go? Stock clutch? Tremec transmission?
It is a wear item, very similar to brake pads
Good job man
Thank you! Glad it helped
Hi, Great video. Did you cut the flywheel?
No because this kit bolted over the flywheel and does not use the surface of the old flywheel
$4700 for dealership to change clutch in ny. That seem really crazy or is it just me?
Yeah that's insane man.
A couple questions,
1: How hard would it be to replace the flywheel beyond what you did?
2: How hard would it be to disassemble everything again after you put the locktite on? Just curious if you would be able to remove those bolts with a wrench again or if you're permanently screwed (no puns intended).
Thanks in advance!
There's two kinds of loc-tite. I believe the one used here is the semi permanent kind. You'll most likely need to put some elbow grease into breaking it free but it'll come out again.
The flywheel isn't that difficult at all. There are 8 bolts to remove from the crankshaft. Just need a screwdriver or something to hold it from spinning.
With blue Locktite/threadlock, you can break them free with a little elbow grease. Red Locktite/threadlock on the other hand requires that you heat the bolts to a certain temp before trying to break them loose. If you don't, you'll probably shear the bolts off before they break loose.
Clutch got American pied
Replace those rear tires man would hate to see some dummy total one of these cause of his negligence to traction..