M2C Explained Series - ZRS Emulsion Shock caps vs Bladder Shock caps
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
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The First in a series of Videos I plan to create that not just installs M2C Goodies, but goes into detail regarding the craftsmanship that Mitch and Avery bring to the table. Sure M2C is game changing, but what are the thought processes that actually make them so. Stay tuned, many parts will be covered.
In depth - Install Video
• M2C ZRS Shock Caps - H...
M2C ZRS Shock caps are a must have:
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MORE SPRING INFO... READ BELOW
FYI - This company has changed over to MWcomponents, they may require you to make a $40 dollar minimum purchase, otherwise they tack on a 15 dollar surcharge. So to avoid that, consider to buy 8 springs, and maybe get yourself options.
Here is my latest suggestions on what to order
(For 15.5 plus pound Rigs)
12lb 1631 springs
Front and rear (Adjust collars to suit, since these are a bit long for the front)
1631 - x4 (Recommend M2C zero rebound caps, and 4000-5000cst diff fluid)
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(For 14 and below pound Rigs)
9.5lb springs
Front X2
72377S (Recommend M2C zero rebound caps, and 3000-4000cst diff fluid)
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8.2lb springs
Rear X2
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hope that helps
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Nice detail Randy, I was glued throughout.
Nice! Thx for letting me know you liked
Thank you for the detailed explanation of such an undervalued topic as RC shocks. I bought some M2C upgrades because of your videos. You are a very accurate engineer with a focus on detailed explanations. That's why the U.S. states supply Ukraine with HIMARS and M270 while China and Russia continue to copy and pretend on something that they are not. Your video makes me calmer during these war days. Support for the M2C brand is the support of U.S. products and quality craftsmanship.
Thank you Mykhailo, I’m really glad I could be of help for you. I really appreciate your comment
Great video. Ive decided to use my m2c gift card and got the shock caps and the pistons. And naturally im gonna need your video's for reference ya know
Wow! Great job on this. I learned a couple of tricks too! Thanks for posting!
Thanks Avery 🤜🤛
Really was good man knowledge is power.
is there a parts number or were can i get one of those shock caps kits to put on my karton exb
See description my good man👍😎
Man. Thank you
Thanks!
You bet!
Thanks!!!!
Great explanation just gained a sub
Sweet! Thx Dalton
Great content Sir! Invaluable 411
Thanks 😎👍
Great video my man! Very descriptive and enjoyable. I learned a lot and am appreciative of it since I just recently bought the m2c beefcake kit for my kraton! Keep up the good work!
I've really been wanting to get these shock caps and the pistons. Iv been fighting some rebound. But me and buddy at the shop was sitting there looking at the stock shocks and we're thinking we might be able to drill and tap the stock ones to create an emulsion shock. I'm about to test it out. Just gotta make sure there is a replacement at the shop if it goes horribly wrong LMAO 😂
Interesting, be curious how that goes😆
Great explanation....I appreciate ya brotha. Keep the videos coming man. And I hope I can be in the challenge on time for this month
Still have tons of time. 27th (by midnight) 😎🔥😎🔥
@@EastTactics yeah man. Also trying the new gopros I got out. 7 silver and 360 max🤘
Great details about the facts, this was new to me as the LOVE 4 RC as a grown up kid, thank you, I’m upgrading now
Glad I could help
Very detailed explanation , great job 👍👌👍
Thanks!
Very helpful. It’s very interesting too though because it’s basically the opposite of what we do for tuning our full scale off road trucks. High speed desert running trucks would never have Emulsion style shocks on them. Emulsion shocks are only used for very slow speed rock crawl situations. Cavitation is our enemy at high speed. Our shocks separate the gas from the oil using remote Reservoirs, not just the diaphragm or bladders like what is used in RC shocks. Again, very insightful and interesting. 👍🏽✌🏽
I love ur how to videos they r brill, I've tried to sort of copy ur shock spring tactic lol and I've now uploaded my Oct jump challenge also, I need to get me some of them caps and pistons ASAP lol
The caps are awesome!
@@EastTactics I need some in my rc life lol 👊👍🤣
Killer way to explain it.👊👊
Thanks Jordan
M2c is great stuff
Since the air is all bled out, I dont think this is a true emulsion type shock. Typically those are actually charged with nitrogen. The way this works is by setting the fluid volume with the shaft fully compressed so there is no pressure. When the shock extends theres a small vacuum created. Ive had this type of shock suck the shaft back in if the stiction is low enough. My thoughts at least, lol. Nice vid
I have these for my Kraton and did notice the excess flash in the piston holes. Learned a bit from watching your video! It drives so much better! Now I am gonna be experimenting with my TLR Tuned Typhon. Keeping the stock pistons which are different from the normal Typhon but using these shock caps. Brand new and one of the shocks came leaking from factory...
That’s annoying those leaks. Gotta be real careful not to disrupt those rubber components in the cap when tightening. You’ll have to let me know how just using the caps does on your TLR.
@@EastTactics I’ll be installing them tonight! I’ve tried a new bladder on that shock and still leaks. The bladder also gets sucked in as well. I’ll have to check the others anyways. I did notice a burr on the shock body but it’s not tearing in to the bladder. I lose about 25% of my shock oil. Either way this shouldn’t be an issue once these new caps are on!
@@GreggCesaroni
Right, and you watched this full vid, correct. Particularly the part showing tips to make sure it doesn't leak, as well as the balloon idea? Correct?
@@EastTactics Correct. When I put those shock caps on my Kraton I did keep in mind not to over tighten the caps. I forgot to do the balloon trick but I haven’t seen any leaking from my Kraton. I don’t have balloons at my house but I do have a wide variety of o rings at my shop to use. Silicone o rings, Buna, Viton, etc. Come to think of it, thanks for reminding me about that haha!
@@EastTactics I don’t have the shock dimensions off the top of my head where the cap goes on but I have a few 15, 16, and 17mm o rings. Do you know what the diameter is?
👏
great video thank you for the information. what size upgraded springs do you recommend for a talion exb for the front and rear?
I really wish I knew. I would have to own the talion (which may be an option in this new year) and do a lot of testing and searching on the spring manufactures websites etc.
This new year I plan on doing a lot of comparisons of my original V4 Kraton versus a stock EXB… to really give my two cents having come back to feel the original feel again.
But again as far as the Talian goes it’s a completely different beast.
Nice tutorial, also all the weight and rotational mass always goes towards the back except while braking , I have try these caps along with some other m3 racing set up parts , what weight oil are you using. Did you say diff oils,
Yeah I run a bit unorthodox setup, some would say it’s a bit extreme lol but I like it. I tend to favor anti-chassis slap for my basher, to lend me more protection into my rig and provide A better experience for one who has nothing but jumping huge air in mind. So to that end I have researched and picked up a variety of very heavy springs. The stock springs are only 5 pound springs for a 12 pound rig when you get it from stock however after a lot of upgrades my rig weighs 16 pounds. The chassis slap was horrendous.
For a while I ran with Nero big rock 16 pound springs. This calls for a massive change in the thickness of the oil. And that thickness actually calls for differential fluid believe it or not. So yeah I found that 5000 CST for 16 pound springs and MTC shock caps brings back a lot of the needed control that would otherwise be very bouncy.
I would never run the set up as a racer because The competition with annihilate me.
Anyway I have since changed to 11 pounds which is still double that up stock. And dropped to 3K differential fluid. I’m still testing it but I do like it quite a bit.
Irregardless of whether one chooses to go to the extreme shock spring and fluid route that I take, the M2C caps are game changing on the stock springs. 👍😎
My question would be, can you use a stock shock with a larger diameter shock rod and the M2C piston and cap combo? Because it seems the M2C setup would be ideal. But the stock Arrma shock rod is too thin. And tends to bend easily. Or is there a shock that already has a bigger shock rod and can incorporate the M2C piston and cap combo?
I don’t believe there is a thicker rod that can be incorporated into the stock shock set up. Without replacing the lower module of the shock that screws on. Similar to the way, MTC designed a thicker rod to be incorporated into the 8S shock system. However, M2C did not designed the same upgrade for the 6S rig. And the reason for this, to be honest with you is because the current stock shocks (and rod) are strong enough for the 6S rig. So if you are bending them, then one of two things is happening. You just had a really unlucky landing that probably would’ve bent even an upgrade. Or there’s other things to potentially look at that are contributing to the issue of your shock taking up too much burden.
Are you running the 6s Kraton? What is the weight of your rig? W/ battery etc?
What version v4, v5, or EXB?
Which shock rod bent
How many time have you bent that rod!
Have you been making sure your droop screws are set properly? They can adjust over time.
if everything is in order, and this is the first time you bent a shock rod, I would simply suggest to pick up a new stock set up. And more than likely probably it won’t happen again, unless, of course you have a really gnarly landing.
You could also email M2C and ask them if they might consider making the same upgrade for the 6s, that they made for the 8s.
@EastTactics I have a Kraton 6S V5 BLX. It looks like the RCAWD brand shock is essentially a stock shock with the larger diameter shock rod. I wonder if you could simply drill out the center of the piston to accommodate the larger rod. But thank you for your response. And this video answered a lot of questions. It's a bit frustrating sometimes when you see guys hitting massive jumps. But don't tell you how they're doing it. From my perspective I've had zero luck with not breaking every single time I've used my Kraton. Fresh out of the box the first time I took it for a ride the center diff blew and the motor locked up. The center diff had zero fluid in it. I mean nothing. And the motor I can't explain. Maybe the center diff being dry caused undo stress. But the magnets were in pieces inside. That took 2 months of waiting on parts. Since then I've learned to remove, inspect and rebuild my diffs with the appropriate fluids. And have had better luck with that. But then the ESC failed. And if it's not one of those it has been axles breaking, wing mounts, bulkheads, diff cups. You name it. I've learned to put a small piece of rubber inside the outdrive at the spindle end. And that stops the axles popping out due to being too far away from the drive cups when the suspension is in full compressed state. Then it was the shock tower bends. And all of this on jumps that were nowhere near as big as the ones you see in videos like yours and others. So in my mind I'm seeing guys on UA-cam hitting massive jump after jump and I'm simply not understanding how. I know some of it is how you land. And thus comes down to driver skill. But I've seen stick rigs hit jump after jump with no breakage. And here I am stock with one run and a failed center diff and motor. And it's been one thing after another ever since. On the compete opposite end. I bought a Big Rock recently. Bashed it hard. Hit big jumps. Landed on the front a few times. On the back a few times. On a corner a few times. And nothing. Not one break. Bern through 5 runs. Now I upgraded the slipper to a Hot Racing one with the motor case assembly. And it's breaking rear axles. So I have to upgrade those. Got those coming from Hot Racing. Anyway. I'm just trying to figure out how to get my Kraton at least somewhat reliable.
Hey bro this is awesome. I have this kit here awaiting the rest of the parts so I can get working on the car.
Question. Which are those new orange coloured springs that are heavier that help with the extra weight.
Habao springs I forgot 🤷♂️
Are you asking about the springs that you see on the table in this video? Those are linked in the description. Part number 1631. Those will be my next Springs I’ll be testing. And I’m pretty excited about what they’re going to do for my 16 pound rig. As far as orange Springs the only time I’ve ever heard orange bare reference with springs are with the techno Springs. I ordered those along time ago and they actually are pretty much the same spring as the stock spring.
@@EastTactics
Someone just mentioned a different spring and yes they are orange also.
I believe they were Habao springs.
I need to sort out the spring issue
The rig I’m building uno it’s heavier then stock and needs thicker springs.
Duplicate what I’m doing now. Part number 1631
@@EastTactics
I can’t see yet I’m looking
@@rcsendandblast1579
10lb 1631 Springs - ORDER 4 (ATTN! - Require a Dremel to modify/flatten Ends!!!)
(5000 or 3000cst diff fluid all around (your choice) and for sure recommended M2C caps/pistons)
www.mwcomponents.com/shop/sp-co-a-10265?variant=1504334
Helpful. But your confusing cavitation with emotion in some of what you were talking about. I understand rc shock loads and requirements can vary from those of full scale trucks. One of the issues I have is with the way you went about achieving less rebound with the standard shock ( the one with the air bladder). The more oil you Purge out, the more cavitation is going to occur. And that is bad always. It is creating extremely inconsistent shock behavior. I’ll have to try this method with my rc trucks and see how it goes. These tactics are basically the opposite of what we do with our real off road vehicles. Thanks for all you helpful and insightful videos.
I like M2c a lot. But I am very disappointed in the drive shafts I purchased them for my Kraton 8S. Within the first 10 minutes I snapped the end of one of them. I simply popped a wheelie and shattered the end completely off. I own a lot of their products and I’ve never had any issues with anything else. But unfortunately myself and Two other people I personally know Have had issues With them. For the price I’m definitely gonna stick with the stock ones. But awesome video
Did you reach out to Mitch and Avery just to let them know, honestly send them a quick email because they are that type of people that will make it right. They’re doing a lot of testing right now especially on the driveshaft. So it wouldn’t hurt. Obviously I cannot guarantee you what they will do But if you send pictures and give them a detailed description of how it happened, help them improve. Maybe they’ll make it right., It’s worth a shot
@@EastTactics Absolutely brother. Myself as well as the other two people that I personally know reached out. I offered to send pictures And I was actually recording a video at the time as well. But all three of us were offered the same type of warranty we would receive 50% off a new purchase. And I considered it but unfortunately after doing a little more research through some forums and general public I found out we weren’t the only ones that were experiencing this problem. So I decided to just go back to the stock ones. For half the cost. I didn’t wanna take the chance of it happening again and Ruining the way I feel about their other products. To be honest I’ve never broken one of the stock ones like this I have bent one or two. But never had one shatter like this I believe it may be due to the heat treating but it’s not 100% sure.
I see. That makes sense, M2C is continually improving so hopefully newer releases don’t have that issue. Or maybe they just had a bad batch (heat treatment) like you said.
Stay cool brother 😎👍
@@EastTactics Absolutely you too brother. I appreciate all the tips tricks and hacks. Along with inspiration. Keep the videos coming brother
are those shocks for a kraton 6s?
Yes, the shocks in this video as well as any talk about Springs etc. are for the 6s Kraton
Can you just swap out the caps and not change the pistons?
You can yes. Converting to a bladder-less cap style will invoke some performance changes.
Will you be taking full advantage of what’s offered with e unique pistons. No
You could always try it without, see how it feels, then go in later and convert the pistons
@@EastTactics Thank you
So I'm doing the m2c shock caps now. The part where you talk about the turn from 6 to 12, when done should the cap be tightened all the way down? I've got what looks like one full turn until it's sitting flush. Thank you
If its sitting flush, you may have gone too tight, and popped the rubber ring inside.
The key is going hand tight, and then doing an addition quarter turn for good measure.
All this to prevent from going too tight, and popping that ring off inside. Sorry the delay on the response.
Since a month has passed… have you found there to be no issues?
@@EastTactics hey East, I haven't noticed any issues with it. It's working very nicely. It's a huge difference compared to my stock blx that likes to bounce up after a hit. 👍
@@oggoblin295 Nice! Ya they are pretty amazing
Wait so is having no rebound good for bashing ET? Yeah I just notice this just now with mine. Just put them on. I use 80W or 1000cst for the shock fluid
these caps do not eliminate all rebound, they simply control it, or slow it down a desirable amount good for jumping and bashing. They work great for your stock setup with stock shocks, and stock oils. They also work great for people like me who have added custom springs, and over the top thickness in my oil. But ya... reduced, or better controlled rebound is desired for bashers, to minimize bounce after huge air.
@@EastTactics ohh ok good to know East. Thanks brother. Great Explanation on that. You know me I love to bash and go as high as I possibly can. 👊👍.
Link for the 10lb springs the 404’d me Randy.
Its no good anymore
Im looking for another supplier of 16mm springs
I think 10 lb or better is what I am looking for.
That a real bummer these links are not working. I’ll be looking into it
One thing I could suggest, scroll through this video or perhaps another one of my video in the springs playlist. When I show an image of the springs (which im pretty sure I do). Snapshot the details, at least you’ll have the specs you need to dig a bit either through century springs catalog or another spring manufacture. I’ll do my best to revise these links, or link to other springs that will work. Thanks for letting me know your getting thee 404 message.
@@EastTactics I’d appreciate it.
Let me know here if ya can & when you find something out Rand 👍
The site link still worked . They was just no springs to see.
I’d love to find some 12 to even 15 lb. Maybe a little shorter than the OEM (using them on the sledge also )
i have a v5 exb kraton
Check the description for links to the products.
Wow, finally, thanks to you i found out that rc shock pistons are not just a washer with some kinda holes in it ))) definitely gonna get those pistons. What do think: do those extra channels make the piston any weaker?
I’m glad you liked it, thanks for commenting. Strength wise the Pistons are extremely solid no issues there at all