M2C Explained Series - FRONT & REAR HINGE PIN KITS V4, V5/EXB (M2C# 3616, 3125, 3130)
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
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Please note - MTC HAS A NEW HINGE PIN KIT FOR THE REAR, PART NUMBER 3615 THAT INCLUDES A CUSTOMIZED D BLOCK (REAR/REAR) THAT THIS VIDEO DOES NOT COVER. ITS DESIGNED TO ALLOW FOR THE USE OF THE MOJAVE EXB REAR SKID PLATE, AN ADVANCED PROTECTION SYSTEM BUILT FOR THE MOHOVE, THATS PRETTY GAME CHANGING FOR THE KRATON. A new video will come regarding this Mohave rear system... Stay tuned!!
M2C Explained Playlist:
• M2C Explained Series
M2C 3615 (The Rear kit, with Mohave Bumber compatable D Block)
m2cracing.net/...
M2C 3596 (The D Block stand alone)
m2cracing.net/...
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M2C Parts from this Video
M2C 3130 (Standard Rear Hinge Pin kit, without the custom mohave D Block)
m2cracing.net/...
M2C 3616 Front Hinge pin kit
(this kit comes with the “A” block, and captured pins)
m2cracing.net/...
M2C 3125 Front hinge pin kit (Standard V4/V5.. no EXB "A" block)
m2cracing.net/...
M2C 3595 EXB Upgraded "A" Block ONLY (For front EXB Bumper compatibility)
m2cracing.net/...
M2C 3510 Captured pins only (pack of 2)
m2cracing.net/...
M2C 3135 Extra Delren bushings
m2cracing.net/...
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It's hard to underestimate the value of all your videos. I do my orders based on your videos and upgrade my pre-owned Outcast 6S BLX, which I like. My five-year-old son likes our Arrma Outcast among all our cars. You specify all the nitty gritty details about all the stuff. Thanks. Glory to Ukraine!
Thank you Mykhailo, that means a lot!
This is very well done! These pieces look like jewellry> The EXB bumper add-on is awesome
New to rc and really like your videos. Great job at explaining things. I have a kraton 6s exb all stock bought used but never driven. Slowly upgrading. Have some stuff coming this weekend. I’ll be ordering this hinge kit. Thank you.
Hey brother, great video and explanation. Thanks so much for the mention of my video at 21:20, it’s greatly appreciated. Love the new M2C A block and will get one if my front end ever fails. Shout out to Avery and Mitch at M2C Racing for yet another brilliant product. Keep up the great videos brother. Love your work. 😎🤙🏼
I really do love these videos. I've been trying to slowly upgrade my old v4. Getting an explanation on the front A block for the EXB bumpers was very much needed. Also those captured hinge pins with the integrated flat nut is very nice. I think m2cs droop screws, front and rear hinge pin blocks and their zero rebound shock system will be my next upgrades.
Very nice!! glad I could help
Thank you for showing these components! New to Kraton EXB and anticipating a lot of breaking stuff later so this is good to know! Cheers!
🍻
Had to go back and watch again about the front because i got the itch ... the back looks sooo good with the kit i must make the front look the same! Moar! Rawr lol
Heck ya 🔥👍🔥👍
Thank you!! I have 2 cars that need this!
Another Great Video! Thanks man! I'm really rusty working on RC cars, wish me luck man gonna order my Kraton v5 in a couple weeks.
I’m excited To be a part of your journey
Thanks bro , I understand it better now I need that exb upgrade piece . 👍
Ya… it’s a must own piece
Awesome video brother!!! I was on M2C Racing last night looking for the top plate for my typhon but couldn’t seem to find it.actually it’s a tlr typhon but I’m pretty sure it’s the same plate.I already have the braces,spacers and wing mount but I need some more🤪
Awesome install and explanation 👍 thanks for posting this!
Thanks, I’m glad you liked it.. more importantly thank you for all you guys do, seriously you guys have been absolutely amazing!
Nice I put the nut in behind my shock tower now,just ordered 2 sets of the 3130 they have 15% percent off for Halloween 👍
That’s awesome!!!
Thanks you for u expérience and Ur help for RC
Anytime… thx for watching!
Thanks!
No problem!
And thank you!!!
Do you jump without the long whole length center brace?
I do yes, 100% attributed to the M2C chassis and brace supports being strong enough to remove it.
Love when things actually work but I bought the EXB bumper and the updated A block specifically to use with the EXB front bumper and it doesn’t even come close to fitting,, the sales pitches are great but it really sucks when things don’t fit
Never seen anybody have issue, can you tell me the part number stamped on the new a new A block.
Let’s figure this out. Happy to help
@@EastTactics can I message you and send a pic? I’m here at my bench trying to understand the fit,, the block doesn’t accept the width of the plastic recessed areas on the bumper
@@EastTactics M2C3595,, with EXB front bumper for V5 Notorious.. I have pics if there’s a place I could send them, I’d appreciate some help very much
Yes send pics to info@easttactics
We’ll get to the bottom of it 👍
Nice one buddy, I do need to get me a set for the front and rear, I've taken my exb bumper off now and I'm running a rpm front bumper just to c if it's better or worse, again I love ur how to videos they r great so thanks again brother 😉🤙💪👊
Thanks Big Al, appreciate that. Let me know your finding in the comparison when done, I’d be curious. What happened to your exb bumper?
@@EastTactics just to many front landings I think but the 4 screws kept backing out and getting hooked up on the ground so once it died I thought rpm time 👍😉
Awesome vid man! keep em coming. Do the center drive shafts fit the Kraton exb? as i noticed they are a bit shorter than the original. exb 6s
Yes, I believe they were intentionally shortened just a little bit to allow for more chassis flex without putting load on them.
Be nice if u could get an upgraded b block with the new updated A block for the exb bumper togather, makes no sense two have to buy both kits plus the captured pins in order to get a full front set up. Should be able to buy a full front set up without the added unneeded extra b block and hinge pins
M2C sells the kit you want.
m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php#!/M2C-3616-ARRMA-KRATON-MOJAVE-6S-V4-&-V5-EXB-FRONT-HINGE-PIN-RETAINER-KIT-w-BUMPER-MOUNT/p/478044760/category=136127923
The image doesn’t depicted however (M2C needs to update the photo)if you read the description you’ll see that it comes with the upgraded “A” block as well as the upgraded pins in one kit
Thank you! Exactly what I was wanting!
one more thing; I Really like your set up man, very neat and organized. I'm an organized guy too, there is soo many parts, nuts, bolts, pins, etc. How do you keep every part organized if you dont mind me asking, I know everyone has a different system .
It first starts with using yoga mats for your pit mat cut to suit for whatever size table you plan on using. I like to put shelving if I’m in a corner, a shelf right in front of you and then if you can another shelf making an L shape of shelving for yourself. Often times visiting your local thrift store or Salvation Army/DI store, you can find just what you need. After that I do have a magnetic strip that you can’t see in my video but I like to put a lot of things on the magnetic strip miscellaneous tools it’s off to the side you can’t see it. Another big upgrade to your station is getting one of the spinning RC stands. I’ll drop a video link here where I talk about them And a few other things.
Also if you plan on making videos I station and a curtain rod above me where I hang an upside down selfie stick that I can run vertically across the whole rod and then I have basically have a maneuverable camera to hold my iPhone for filming
But overall getting yourself set up with those shelfs around you and and having a really cool color pit mat you like is the beginning.
ua-cam.com/video/gov56EolTK0/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics oh ok yea that definitely makes sense. I appreciate the tips man! Yea I saw that rotating rc lift. Def need that. Unfortunately I dont have a garage to work out of but my room will have to do...lol. I worked alot on my Rustler..and it gave me a great experience working on rc cars.. When I get my Kraton v5. I'll Def let you know. You got an awesome channel going man. It REALLY is gong to helpe out when I cross those bridges of upgrades and tips and tricks especially with those m2c upgrades. Appreciate you man! 👊🏽✌🏽️
And Definitely going to watch that video you sent me.....like tonight!!🤣😂
🤜🤛
What is up?! I had a question, did you guys determine the winner of the front flip competition yet? You! 👍💯
Not yet… we did determine the top 4 vids. Check out my latest community post. I’ll post another community post sometime today to.
@@EastTactics Very cool! Thank you!
Sorry to bother you I have a question about installing this kit? How tight do I tighten the lock nuts? I’ve tightened them pretty tight and my arms move freely but the lock nut is just barely covering the threads.I hope you see this I also used the stock screws because the ones that came in the kit were to long for the hot racing bulkheads 🤪
I take it you’re using the flat nut on the other side correct? If you’re feeling a little bit uncomfortable about how much meat those locknuts and grabbing onto, you might check two things. First make sure that both of the aluminum MTC pieces, both front and back are sitting 100% flush with no debris or anything keeping them from seating perfectly. Next if that’s no help, double check the threading on the flat nuts. Maybe they’re stealing a few threads that you’d like to have on the other side.
I believe that one end of the pin is specifically designed for The lock nut side. Make sure you do not have those backwards
@@EastTactics thanks so much for the quick response!! So the side with the flat nut has more thread showing than the side with the lock nut so I guess I should maybe loosen them but I thought I seen those are supposed to be on all the way🤷🏻♂️
They are supposed to be all the way, the first thought I have though is that maybe you’ve got the pin backwards. Because one has a short amount of threads on the other end has a large amount of threads. The large amount of threads need to be on the locknut side. Did you get that backwards by chance?
If you do have the pins the correct way. It must be a minor manufacturing defect is my guess. So yeah I would slightly loosen up the flatnut side to give some threads to the locknut side. Just make sure you use red Loctite liberally on the flat nut side
@@EastTactics no the pins are the right way I’ve watched a few videos and it seems like that’s just how it goes.the lock nut is all the way on the threads it just has a thread or two past the nut.it should be ok but I didn’t have any red loctite so I used blue but I don’t see that being a problem.thanks for your help I appreciate it
I have a 6s exb. Do I have to buy the separate A and D block? I really don’t want to spend an extra $90 for that.
You can buy M2CS hinge pin kits, as either the classic variant, which comes with his old school, a block (with the front set up), and the classic D block (with the rear set up). However, you can choose to buy the updated kit as well, which comes with(for the front), the new a block. And the rear kit comes with the newer D block. So if you wanted to go all in and pick up MTCs, front kit and rear kit, then you wouldn’t spend any more than you would have in the past, just make sure you pick up the kit that comes with those updated blocks.
Also… watch this
ua-cam.com/video/CxG7IOLL7gM/v-deo.html
Quite surprised M2C has only wheel adapters and a motor mount for 3S vehicles. Disappointing.
Ya… I wonder if the market for the 3s line is too small. Not sure.
Nice how to video. I subscribe
Appreciate it Jack.
Any idea on if this kit will work on a Talion.
I’m pretty sure this kit will work across-the-board for most Arrma 6 rigs however, to be safe because it does look like the part number is slightly different even though I still believe it’s the same part. Here are links to the front and rear hinge kits for the talian off of M2C’s website.
m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php#!/M2C-3125-ARRMA-6S-FRONT-HINGE-PIN-SUPPORT-SYSTEM-V2-V3-V4-V5/p/478001499/category=136127931 No
m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php#!/M2C-3130-ARRMA-OFF-ROAD-REAR-HINGE-PIN-KIT-v2-v3-v4-EXB-v5/p/478044796/category=136127931
@@EastTactics thanks! I’ll give M2c a call and see if they know for sure.
I mean, I’m pretty sure the Kraton kit will work. But I’m 100% sure the links will work lol. so you’re good. But it’s always great to talk to those guys. A fantastic team.
Help please dude! The screws you get with the EXB bumper kit and the captured hinge pins.
Where do they go, if you’re putting the EXB bumper back on.
And the little ones! Where do they go???
If they’ve got the countersunk or triangular shaped head on them and they go up from the bottom of your vehicle through the chassis or up from the bottom of the bumper itself into custom “a” block. The shorter screws with again The triangular shape go into the short recesses of the “a” block. And the longer ones go into the longer sections of the “a” block.
The screws that are Butthead are used to fit the extra plastic piece that came with your EXB bumper… screwed down from the top.
@@EastTactics SORRY, would of replied straight away but we just had a power outage 🤦♂️
So the 3 counter sunk screw replace the original long ones for the bumper but we put these in with loctite? Right?
The other counter sunk screws,obvious!
The 2 long cap head screws go through the squishy bumper part and into A-block and the shorter ones go in the back/inside of car side of the diff housing
Did I get that right?
Thanks for helping though dude really cool!😎💪👍👍
Going metal to metal, its never a bad idea to use locktite. its not required here, but For these, if you’re going to use it, use blue.
So long as any counter sunk places on the A or B block receives a screw that is the triangle heads and is long enough to gain purchase, your good.
Everything you mentioned sounds about right, so long as button heads never get put into a counter sunk holes.
I believe, at least regarding the “A” and “B” blocks, both get attached to the diff house themselves with counter sunk skrews.
The only button heads that actually go into the diff house are those that tighten on the cover door, and attach the shock tower to the diff house ears… but your not dealing with those here.
@@EastTactics my Ablock came with 2 long ones which I’m presuming are for the bumper 3DRC part 2 nuts which I’m guessing is for the back of the bumper as it doesn’t screw in to the Bblock anymore and the 3 very short (maybe 5mm) counter sunk screws which as I mentioned guess go through bumper and into Ablock with some blue loctite
There’s 2 mid size counter sunk screws that go in the front in the counter sunk bit and 2 slightly longer cap head that go in B as there’s no counter sink points on the back so I think I’m getting it right although I did measure how deep the holes are and the screws only go in half way which ever way I try it so was thinking of putting more metal in there , simply to fill the voids and make bulkhead even more ridged in the bottom
I spoke with u ages ago about the fan mount system and the suspension from that material u recommended which I bought and all that plus the power of a small 1300mah constantly wanting to lift the fan blades up even on impact is still going strong.
Did it slightly different to yours but basically the same
That was an excellent tip👊👍💪💪💪
Only thing I’ve done different is the wiring from the two fans and how there connected. I found that twisting and soldering them together created too much of a stiff spot so a took a mini house hold wire connector with the screws in , connected it all up with sheathing and heat shrink at either end, dropped a tiny bit of solder in the holes.Trimmed the plastic where the tiny 3mm screws are so it’s flat, trimmed it as round as possible and finished it with some heat shrink over the top with a 3s balance plug on to power them. Meant the wire to the battery looks neat and it all stays fairly flexible bar 3/4cm where the wires connect. Benefit is it means the connection is completely protected from impact and fairly water resistant
But I love the fact my fans can move up n down like a shocker when jumping 👍👍👍👍😎
No… I apologize, you’re right I just got home from work and checked the front a block. Your right two button heads do go in to attach directly to the Diff house. My bad
Everything else you mentioned above is accurate. Interesting also what you did with your fans. Glad we’re sharing the journey together.
Does this fit the tlr
Just go to M2C’s website and make sure you look under the typhon.
I believe they’re the same as a kraton however, I could be wrong, so just to be safe, buy it from the Typhon The section
m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php#!/TYPHON-6S-V4-AND-V5/c/136127937
What's up with the M2C website
Looks like their website has over gone an overhaul/upgrade. It looks good. Perhaps there’s issues with your browser or something?
This hobby is is a money pit :( you have a discount code with m2c? Wife is going to make me sleep on the couch soon
Lol… I see guys with 10 cars in their garage and it blows my mind.
I wish I had a discount code for M2C.
But I will tell you the video you just watched one of the most clutch upgrades you can get for your rig. If you want to start getting to that point where getting through a full battery pack without an issue is a more common thing. 😎💪
I try to avoid Hot Racing for any upgrade parts. The aluminum they use is straight up garbage.
#NoHotRacingOnMyRig
Come on start already lol
Odd I thought I had that setting to start today at 5 PM. I’ll go in and edit it here in a minute and activate it now. Lol
@@EastTactics yay!!!!!! I was thinking that time on Halloween would be odd lol
I've been wanting to know what the two flat pieces with the big and small holes that come with upper hinge pin blocks do. What is their purpose
Did the video answer your question? If not maybe rephrase your question because I’m not 100% sure what you’re talking about.😬😝😝
@@EastTactics Not sure I'm still watching lol. thanks though if I still have a problem I'll ask.