Honestly I’m just impressed that a tap and die set lasted 50 years. That’s 50 years not never snapping half!😂😂 Edit: it is possible I just have a skill issue
Just a tip for those folks planning to use one of these-go ahead and strip the screw head all the way before trying to drill it out. Otherwise, you're likely to snap the drill bit when it snags on the edges of what remains of the slot on the screw head.
yes that's been my experience with them, and I have broken the edges off a normal drill bit tip because of the same issue like 12-13 bucks at autozone gets you a set of left handed drill bits that you run in reverse, so with 1 thing you can drill and most likely grab the screw with
Or they didn't know the drill bit end, which you showed doesn't work, was why they could never get the other end to bite since it never created a proper hole.
I stumbled on this video just now. It’s Christmas day and my wife put these in my stocking. How ironic that I got these and I stumble on a review. You’ve got a new subscriber here.
I bought a set of left-hand drill bits for this purpose. That way drilling doesn't tighten the bolt/ screw . Harbour Freight has them at a reasonable price.
I actually have a set of really old left hand drill bits and thought about mentioning them in the video, but I figured most people don’t have them and will probably be using standard drill bits. Good comment though, I appreciate it!
Actually depending.. it can honesty help to remove them if you run them in a bit.. especially corroded or rusted items...breaks it loose some which helps.. trust me...
Better screw extractor sets include left hand screws. I've gotten lucky many times just needing the drill bits. Given how cheap left hand bit sets are at HF it's hard to go wrong.
@JeffDM I agree. I bought 2 of HF's left-hand drill bit sets. They are inexpensive and come in a metal case. From my experience, HF drill bits work well. Have a great day.
I received a set of these as a Christmas present from my sister years ago. The brand was “EASY OUT” they were the non-titanium coated version but they looked identical and came with the same case. Much like yourself, I figured out very quickly that the drill end of the bits were worse then useless, they even had the tendency to work harden the surfaces never doing any metal cutting removal. Whether it was the brand or just a lack of QC, the extractor end of my set didn’t work either. The bits were most definitely tool steel and were had an ideal hardness rating so as not to lose their shape or break from being too hard BUT just like the drill bit side, EVERY EDGE, EVERY FEATURE that was meant to either bite and grab or cut had a smooth transition on its corner edges. Running my fingers across it the working ends of the bits felt glassy smooth. As if the forming die used to shape the ends was still the original 1st production die and it no longer had the ability to impart sufficiently sharp features into the bits. [Initially I was of the impression that the bits had been tossed into a sand or stone vibrator (then cutting geometry felt that smooth) possibly to remove scale after heat treating but I believe the die forming process causes extreme heat from the forming process such that a heat treatment process isn’t necessary but it most closely mimicked that kind of familiar process] So i’m glad that these newest brand actually aren’t complete garbage, though if I were to bet when the company has made its profits and is ready to abandon their brand, we will see a huge spike in products that cant drill or grab.
Thanks for your thoughtful and detailed comment. I appreciate it. That's disappointing that extractor end of the bits in the Easy Out set you bought didn't work at all. You'd think that would be something they'd have addressed in the design and testing phase of the tool! I'm always dubious of tool brands I've never heard of and based on the ridiculous number units that Amazon says these things are selling, I just wanted to try them out to see if they actually worked. I was pleasantly surprised, but I have no idea if 'Thosaf' will still be in business a week from now.
I usually use a cutting disc to grind a slot into the head of the screw, and then a flathead screwdriver to remove the screw. It works in a lot of cases.
15 years ago I bought one of the OG screw removers, Alden Grabit 3 piece set. I still have them and they've removed countless number of stripped screws.
Just ran across your channel and was disappointed by the fact that there are only 7 videos, and then I looked at the upload dates and realized you JUST started 3 months ago. Outstanding. Definitely subscribing to follow along your you tube journey, this channel will go far, for sure! Great job, man!
We use extractors in aviation. Here is how you use it: 1: drill the bolt head with a bigger drill so you can make a nice smooth flat "indent" 2: use a puncher to punch a whole right in the middle of bolt head 3: use smaller drill to drill the hole straight in the middle (very important to keep it straight) 4: use extractor to extract the bolt If the bolt is in too tight you may want to use bigger extractor if possible or try to tighten a bolt a little bit before you unscrew it with the extractor. Very simple procedure but if you mess on of the steps above you are in trouble.
One time, i want to change a battery of a watch. 4 screws reeeaally small. One was not usable anymore. No screwdriver got a grip. I used a dreul /hand rope stick drill and a broken drill tip. The broken part was sharp enough to remove the screw. I decide me for the dreul(cultural differences about the name. Its a kind of hand drill) Because i have a lot of manual spinning control. And holy fff it rescue my day
soooo... what you are saying, is if I have a greasy sheared off-head bolt, which has been overheated, rusted and stuck in the block for 30 years, all I have to do is put the block in the lathe, carefully center drill the left over 2" hunk of threads with a professional machinists bit, so I can use the 'screw extractor' in a no name chinese low power cordless drill. It was all going well up to where I had the block chucked up in the lathe, but it kept falling out of the chuck when I got up to 100 rpm; so I just bought a new car. 🙂
Uneven or bad heat treatment is common on budget chinesium tools. I wouldn't be surprised if some of them snap, and others don't, like the reviews said. Nice video.
torches and welders always worked good for me.. but I dealt with a lot different bolts than a deck screw LOL Might be great for stuff around the house especially at $10 bucks...Thanks!!
You're showing that people who can think & read > than those who can't. lol My experience matches exactly what you said: the drill bit end isn't great but the extractor works great once you've drilled it a bit. Also, if you use drivers/bits/drills right, then you'll only be using these for rusty screws, etc or ones that others have messed up..
@@ShopHumor I'm glad I found your channel , even though I don't live anywhere near Harbor Freight or the states but I found your videos helpful and entertaining
Pro tip for philips, robertson and allan head machine screws that are stripped: take the nearest size up torx and hammer it into the head, hard. It'll grip most of the time. Also using an impact instead of a drill helps a lot
Great review my dude! I can say from personal experience that the “drill” end does in fact suck. I came to the same conclusion that using an actual twist drill and using low speed and high down pressure gives the best result.
Basically, yes. I find that you need to drill the head with a bit, then use the extractor. I find I have roughly a 2-out-of-three success rate for extracting with this set. At the end of the day, it's a 10$ set that can save you a LOT of time fully drilling out a screw, especially small screws were you are likely to snap a drill bit.
Oh for my loft bed.. The screws that came with it had such a soft metal.. I ended up having to drill the heads right off. and use plyers to finish inscrewing the snapped bolt heads.. I then went and bought proper screws and replaced every single one....
Thanks! I’m still really new to UA-cam so I amvery thankful for the subscribers I do have. I appreciate the compliment and that you took the time to leave it!
I’ve toyed around with the idea of picking some of these up. I have an old Matco bolt extractor kit that has left hand drill bits and extractors. About 85% of the time, the left handed drill pulls the broken bolt out. As long as there is minimal to no damage to the screw, they usually come right out. Might have to dig them out and do a video on the kit. These clearly won’t work on the wood or deck screws just because the size.
I don’t recall if you mentioned it or not, but the drill on the back side is a left hand drill so that there is no clockwise force on the stuck screw. I had a Milwaukee set of these exact extractors and they exploded.
I think I did mention about having to run it in reverse. I might have to test those Milwaukees if I can find some. An exploding extractor would look cool on video lmao
The drill part works perfect for me. You just need more pressure and to drill at the highest speed possible. Sometimes I drill it to the point where the head of the bolt just falls off. Problem solved itself 👌
i have that set and the extractor does work if you can get the down force right. mine were from craftsman from way back. i tend to deal with really wrecked bolts and screws on hvac equipment. both residential and boilers and chillers where the bolts are really hard and messed up from the heat and chemicals.
If the fastener sits proud of the surface like a machine screw or a rounded bolt, a pair of high quality screw extractor pliers like knipex twin grip or vampliers is a hell of a lot quicker and easier than using a bit set
IIRC the Amazon 'sales' figures includes items on lists, plus the sellers can combine total sales from all their products into one item. So the figure represents the total sales of the seller at best, not necessarily that one listing. How to manipulate these things was explained to me by a former Amazon manager a couple of years ago. Things may have changed since of course.
I'd be curious to see what the exact criteria is for Amazon to display a sales volume. When I first bought this set, Amazon listed 40,000 sold in the last month. By the time I shot the video it was 60,000, and now it's 70,000!
A solution that works far better is to gently hammer a torxs/star head driver into the end of the stripped screw and use one of the bit holder devices to link it to the drill without dislodging it prematurely. Crucially, one must predrill the stripped screw with a drill bit sized to half the difference between the outer and inner diameter of the star drives blades/fins. Obviously, this works better on softer screws. On harder ones one has to embiggen the drill bit used to a size closer to the outer dimensions of the star drive in use. (To reduce the amount of steel one is displacing with the hammer.)
What do we use for the screws in smaller devices, like m3 and smaller, or those in microelectronics? I swear they make them out of tin or something for how soft they are, and they often come pre-stripped either from shoddy mfg or intentional anti-repair decisions.
What direction are you using the extractor drill bits? The ones I have used previously are reverse direction. Were you using them like normal drill bits and that’s why they didn’t work at all?
Thanks, it’s user error or how they don’t know how to use it properly. Common sense is to drill a hole deep enough and then use it. Works 100% of the time!
Oh man, the only time I couldn't get an extractor to work was when I was trying to help a family member who only had an impact driver. Funny how that works. Just goes to show! Which set do you find works the best?
@@ShopHumor I have the easy out set (exactly the same set). What my experience with them is to pick the extractor size you're going to use and start with the smallest bit and work your way up so the hole is a bit bigger than the end of the extractor and is deep enough for about a quarter of the extractor to drill into. Then send it with the driver. Is it the intended way for these? 🤷♂ But that's how they worked for me. Also I'm pretty sure the drill bits on these are reversed because I remember them not drilling anything then I reversed it and they were able to drill into the bolt. Might be worth a retest in the future.
So at work we have been using square and man, I have been loving them to death. I wish Philips got switched to square now but thoughts on why not square?
There are times where I couldn't get the screw out because the wood is simply in the way due to going really deep. I didn't bother taking the screws out instead just putting in new ones.
with a 50 year old tap set i would be scared to use it, dont wanna break history and stuff :D altough now that i think of it i guess some stuff my company uses could also be that old and i just don't know
I don't always use the 50 year old set, but sometimes I just feel like breaking it out you know? It's fun to use vintage tools especially when they just work really well.
You didn't actually test it on truly seized rusted bolts... like in a iron engine block. I have used lot's of different types. I find the tapered reverse spiral as you tested, just bite in and expand the broken fastener making it even tighter, ultimately stripping or breaking. The best type I used were the extractors with straight splines that get driven into the fastener. Even then I needed to apply a lot of heat first. If the fastener is not stuck this bad then there are many ways of removing them
I had a stripped screw stuck in the back of my tv making it ao i couldnt remove the stand for wall mounting. The drill end, while underwhelming, did work, but i had to use the drill end then swap to the grab end on the next largest side for it to grab. Using both from the same sized drill bit just wouldnt work no matter what
I'm not sure what the exact issue is drill end, but all of the bits had the same issue so something with their design. I could probably re-profile them to see if they'd be more effective. Hmm..
Yes, the extractor works very well on screws.. that are not stuck. But the one and only time I wanted to use one to get a stuck screw out (instead of drilling it) the extractor broke into the screw and then I had a MUCH harder time to grind the hardened steel extractor piece out of the screw before I drilled the f**ker out.
I only on occasion and sheer dumb luck get those basterds to work, and a small selection of left handed twist bits cost about the same (at least with those you can fail and still drill the screw out)
@@ShopHumor As I remember the first set of these I had was Grabit by Alden. They worked well for me until I loaned them to someone on a jobsite any the proceeded to destroy them. Considering how many companies now have extractors of this design I assume that the original patent expired.
NO! Useless. These DO NOT WORK. Don't buy a set. You're better off using a spoon. Learn to use a rotary tool to make a screwdriver slot. That, and learn the golden touch of patience so that you don't break screws and bolts. Go slow and lubricate, young men. Pro-tip: drill a pilot hole when using an impact-driver for anything you don't want to snap off. _Better procedure beats better remediation._
Thanks for watching! More links in the description:
* - Thosaf Drill Extractor:* amzn.to/3OPULBN
Honestly I’m just impressed that a tap and die set lasted 50 years. That’s 50 years not never snapping half!😂😂
Edit: it is possible I just have a skill issue
Just a tip for those folks planning to use one of these-go ahead and strip the screw head all the way before trying to drill it out. Otherwise, you're likely to snap the drill bit when it snags on the edges of what remains of the slot on the screw head.
yes that's been my experience with them, and I have broken the edges off a normal drill bit tip because of the same issue like 12-13 bucks at autozone gets you a set of left handed drill bits that you run in reverse, so with 1 thing you can drill and most likely grab the screw with
i have never gotten a screw out with these things i did usiing a centre point and a hammer and tapping the screw lose or with a shizzle
I'm betting that a lot of those bad reviews are from people who didn't know how to use these tools properly.
I'm betting you're exactly correct.
Or they didn't know the drill bit end, which you showed doesn't work, was why they could never get the other end to bite since it never created a proper hole.
I stumbled on this video just now. It’s Christmas day and my wife put these in my stocking. How ironic that I got these and I stumble on a review. You’ve got a new subscriber here.
Thanks! That’s pretty funny, and Merry Christmas! Hope you guys had a good one.
Sir I assume that you are unaware, everyone is being tracked,, and eavesdrop on.
Apple was caught and are now paying a lot for it.
@@alphaomega8373 I had no idea that screw extractors could track me. Thanks for the info!
But,the most important (and unanswered) question is..
Are they dishwasher safe?
Lmao. #1 meta comment.
@@ShopHumor This looks like a UA-cam comment tho.
Absolutely not, they stripped my dishwasher and she left me for them (left the kids too)
I bought a set of left-hand drill bits for this purpose. That way drilling doesn't tighten the bolt/ screw .
Harbour Freight has them at a reasonable price.
I actually have a set of really old left hand drill bits and thought about mentioning them in the video, but I figured most people don’t have them and will probably be using standard drill bits. Good comment though, I appreciate it!
@ShopHumor They work.
Actually depending.. it can honesty help to remove them if you run them in a bit.. especially corroded or rusted items...breaks it loose some which helps.. trust me...
Better screw extractor sets include left hand screws. I've gotten lucky many times just needing the drill bits. Given how cheap left hand bit sets are at HF it's hard to go wrong.
@JeffDM I agree. I bought 2 of HF's left-hand drill bit sets. They are inexpensive and come in a metal case. From my experience, HF drill bits work well.
Have a great day.
They used to be “as seen on tv” like 20yrs ago. My grandma got me mine back then and it’s gotten me outta Jams many times
Pretty cool that they actually work if you use them correctly.
I received a set of these as a Christmas present from my sister years ago. The brand was “EASY OUT” they were the non-titanium coated version but they looked identical and came with the same case.
Much like yourself, I figured out very quickly that the drill end of the bits were worse then useless, they even had the tendency to work harden the surfaces never doing any metal cutting removal.
Whether it was the brand or just a lack of QC, the extractor end of my set didn’t work either. The bits were most definitely tool steel and were had an ideal hardness rating so as not to lose their shape or break from being too hard BUT just like the drill bit side, EVERY EDGE, EVERY FEATURE that was meant to either bite and grab or cut had a smooth transition on its corner edges.
Running my fingers across it the working ends of the bits felt glassy smooth. As if the forming die used to shape the ends was still the original 1st production die and it no longer had the ability to impart sufficiently sharp features into the bits.
[Initially I was of the impression that the bits had been tossed into a sand or stone vibrator (then cutting geometry felt that smooth) possibly to remove scale after heat treating but I believe the die forming process causes extreme heat from the forming process such that a heat treatment process isn’t necessary but it most closely mimicked that kind of familiar process]
So i’m glad that these newest brand actually aren’t complete garbage, though if I were to bet when the company has made its profits and is ready to abandon their brand, we will see a huge spike in products that cant drill or grab.
Thanks for your thoughtful and detailed comment. I appreciate it. That's disappointing that extractor end of the bits in the Easy Out set you bought didn't work at all. You'd think that would be something they'd have addressed in the design and testing phase of the tool!
I'm always dubious of tool brands I've never heard of and based on the ridiculous number units that Amazon says these things are selling, I just wanted to try them out to see if they actually worked. I was pleasantly surprised, but I have no idea if 'Thosaf' will still be in business a week from now.
Yeah, this sounds like one of the "for-Amazon" brands that only exists because Amazon won't retail things like this without a trademarked brand name.
I usually use a cutting disc to grind a slot into the head of the screw, and then a flathead screwdriver to remove the screw. It works in a lot of cases.
15 years ago I bought one of the OG screw removers, Alden Grabit 3 piece set. I still have them and they've removed countless number of stripped screws.
Just ran across your channel and was disappointed by the fact that there are only 7 videos, and then I looked at the upload dates and realized you JUST started 3 months ago. Outstanding. Definitely subscribing to follow along your you tube journey, this channel will go far, for sure! Great job, man!
Thank you! I’m still very new to YT as you pointed out, so I truly appreciate the kind words and encouragement. Hope you had a fantastic New Year. :)
We use extractors in aviation. Here is how you use it:
1: drill the bolt head with a bigger drill so you can make a nice smooth flat "indent"
2: use a puncher to punch a whole right in the middle of bolt head
3: use smaller drill to drill the hole straight in the middle (very important to keep it straight)
4: use extractor to extract the bolt
If the bolt is in too tight you may want to use bigger extractor if possible or try to tighten a bolt a little bit before you unscrew it with the extractor. Very simple procedure but if you mess on of the steps above you are in trouble.
One time, i want to change a battery of a watch. 4 screws reeeaally small. One was not usable anymore. No screwdriver got a grip. I used a dreul /hand rope stick drill and a broken drill tip. The broken part was sharp enough to remove the screw. I decide me for the dreul(cultural differences about the name. Its a kind of hand drill) Because i have a lot of manual spinning control. And holy fff it rescue my day
soooo... what you are saying, is if I have a greasy sheared off-head bolt, which has been overheated, rusted and stuck in the block for 30 years, all I have to do is put the block in the lathe, carefully center drill the left over 2" hunk of threads with a professional machinists bit, so I can use the 'screw extractor' in a no name chinese low power cordless drill.
It was all going well up to where I had the block chucked up in the lathe, but it kept falling out of the chuck when I got up to 100 rpm; so I just bought a new car.
🙂
Lmao, yes exactly. 😂
The obvious problem was that you needed to chuck the entire CAR into the lathe….
Did not expect that story ending lmao
Uneven or bad heat treatment is common on budget chinesium tools. I wouldn't be surprised if some of them snap, and others don't, like the reviews said. Nice video.
I'm a new subscriber after seeing a couple of your videos. Thanks for making clear, informative videos.
My last job used these a lot and they work well so long as you know how to use them.
You know it's good because they have "best tools" written on the case!
I am just shocked they spelled Best and Tools correctly.
They wouldn't lie about something as objective as that lmao
Lmao
torches and welders always worked good for me.. but I dealt with a lot different bolts than a deck screw LOL Might be great for stuff around the house especially at $10 bucks...Thanks!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I appreciate it.
Thanks for this. I've been in the market for a set of screw extractors for a while now.
You're welcome! Hope the video was helpful.
I usually just heat and drift things out, it has always served me well
You're showing that people who can think & read > than those who can't. lol
My experience matches exactly what you said: the drill bit end isn't great but the extractor works great once you've drilled it a bit.
Also, if you use drivers/bits/drills right, then you'll only be using these for rusty screws, etc or ones that others have messed up..
I just watched all of your videos keep up the good work , great videos 👍
Thank you so much! I'm pretty new to UA-cam so I'm trying to get better at making and editing videos.
@@ShopHumor I'm glad I found your channel , even though I don't live anywhere near Harbor Freight or the states but I found your videos helpful and entertaining
Well thanks again. I truly appreciate the comment and compliment!
Pro tip for philips, robertson and allan head machine screws that are stripped: take the nearest size up torx and hammer it into the head, hard. It'll grip most of the time. Also using an impact instead of a drill helps a lot
Great tip, thanks!
Great review my dude! I can say from personal experience that the “drill” end does in fact suck. I came to the same conclusion that using an actual twist drill and using low speed and high down pressure gives the best result.
Basically, yes. I find that you need to drill the head with a bit, then use the extractor.
I find I have roughly a 2-out-of-three success rate for extracting with this set.
At the end of the day, it's a 10$ set that can save you a LOT of time fully drilling out a screw, especially small screws were you are likely to snap a drill bit.
Thanks for making this video i enjoyed it
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. I appreciate it!
Oh for my loft bed.. The screws that came with it had such a soft metal.. I ended up having to drill the heads right off. and use plyers to finish inscrewing the snapped bolt heads.. I then went and bought proper screws and replaced every single one....
Great video! You deserve more subscribers
Thanks! I’m still really new to UA-cam so I amvery thankful for the subscribers I do have. I appreciate the compliment and that you took the time to leave it!
I’ve toyed around with the idea of picking some of these up. I have
an old Matco bolt extractor kit that has left hand drill bits and extractors. About 85% of the time, the left handed drill pulls the broken bolt out. As long as there is minimal to no damage to the screw, they usually come right out. Might have to dig them out and do a video on the kit. These clearly won’t work on the wood or deck screws just because the size.
Thanks for the comment! If you do make that video you’ll have to let me know, I’d love to watch it.
I have had great luck with the irwin set. I have purchased at least 5 sets to keep around
Thanks! Will check out that set.
I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work
Thank you so much. I enjoy your comment lol
I don’t recall if you mentioned it or not, but the drill on the back side is a left hand drill so that there is no clockwise force on the stuck screw. I had a Milwaukee set of these exact extractors and they exploded.
I think I did mention about having to run it in reverse. I might have to test those Milwaukees if I can find some. An exploding extractor would look cool on video lmao
"I hope this is worse than any stripped screws you'll have to deal with."
*stares off into space*
haha, yeeaaaahhh.
You should do a video about whats in your toolbox that would be an interesting video! (To me atleast)
Thanks for the suggestion! I have a few more videos coming up but I do appreciate the ideas.
Nice video mate, cheers
Thank you. I appreciate the comment and support!!
The drill part works perfect for me. You just need more pressure and to drill at the highest speed possible. Sometimes I drill it to the point where the head of the bolt just falls off. Problem solved itself 👌
Ive never stripped a screw but ive screwed a stripper
My goodness!
Thanks for getting to the point without a lot of fluff.
You're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Usually helps to begin with a left hand bit.
i have that set and the extractor does work if you can get the down force right. mine were from craftsman from way back. i tend to deal with really wrecked bolts and screws on hvac equipment. both residential and boilers and chillers where the bolts are really hard and messed up from the heat and chemicals.
Good tip TY
If the fastener sits proud of the surface like a machine screw or a rounded bolt, a pair of high quality screw extractor pliers like knipex twin grip or vampliers is a hell of a lot quicker and easier than using a bit set
Great tip. Thank you. I'm going to have to try that.
IIRC the Amazon 'sales' figures includes items on lists, plus the sellers can combine total sales from all their products into one item. So the figure represents the total sales of the seller at best, not necessarily that one listing.
How to manipulate these things was explained to me by a former Amazon manager a couple of years ago. Things may have changed since of course.
I'd be curious to see what the exact criteria is for Amazon to display a sales volume. When I first bought this set, Amazon listed 40,000 sold in the last month. By the time I shot the video it was 60,000, and now it's 70,000!
I have found the same thing. The extractor actually works pretty well but you're better off just using a real drill bit to get it started 😅
A solution that works far better is to gently hammer a torxs/star head driver into the end of the stripped screw and use one of the bit holder devices to link it to the drill without dislodging it prematurely. Crucially, one must predrill the stripped screw with a drill bit sized to half the difference between the outer and inner diameter of the star drives blades/fins. Obviously, this works better on softer screws. On harder ones one has to embiggen the drill bit used to a size closer to the outer dimensions of the star drive in use. (To reduce the amount of steel one is displacing with the hammer.)
So, like with many tools, if you know how to properly use them and are patient, they work fine.
Yep. A little technique and knowledge goes a long way.
They have their limitations, but they definitely work if used properly.
What do we use for the screws in smaller devices, like m3 and smaller, or those in microelectronics? I swear they make them out of tin or something for how soft they are, and they often come pre-stripped either from shoddy mfg or intentional anti-repair decisions.
What direction are you using the extractor drill bits? The ones I have used previously are reverse direction. Were you using them like normal drill bits and that’s why they didn’t work at all?
No they’re reverse as you said, and I was using them in reverse. I tried them normally just in case but that was even worse.
Thanks, it’s user error or how they don’t know how to use it properly. Common sense is to drill a hole deep enough and then use it. Works 100% of the time!
That's my experience too.
From my experience with a similar set they work best with a hex impact driver not a drill.
Oh man, the only time I couldn't get an extractor to work was when I was trying to help a family member who only had an impact driver. Funny how that works. Just goes to show! Which set do you find works the best?
@@ShopHumor I have the easy out set (exactly the same set). What my experience with them is to pick the extractor size you're going to use and start with the smallest bit and work your way up so the hole is a bit bigger than the end of the extractor and is deep enough for about a quarter of the extractor to drill into. Then send it with the driver. Is it the
intended way for these? 🤷♂ But that's how they worked for me. Also I'm pretty sure the drill bits on these are reversed because I remember them not drilling anything then I reversed it and they were able to drill into the bolt. Might be worth a retest in the future.
Thanks and yeah I did run these in reverse and they still didn’t work worth a crap. But good comment, I’m curious about testing them in an impact now.
So at work we have been using square and man, I have been loving them to death.
I wish Philips got switched to square now but thoughts on why not square?
Hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, and salt? You MONSTER! 😮🤣
If you use it as a salad dressing, make sure you use a plastic fork
@@ShopHumorSounds tasty.
@@ShopHumorSounds t a s t y.
well done
Thank you!
There are times where I couldn't get the screw out because the wood is simply in the way due to going really deep. I didn't bother taking the screws out instead just putting in new ones.
I think that's the best solution. Only remove a screw if you have to lmao
with a 50 year old tap set i would be scared to use it, dont wanna break history and stuff :D altough now that i think of it i guess some stuff my company uses could also be that old and i just don't know
I don't always use the 50 year old set, but sometimes I just feel like breaking it out you know? It's fun to use vintage tools especially when they just work really well.
Id be curious to see how it works against blue loctite.
You didn't actually test it on truly seized rusted bolts... like in a iron engine block. I have used lot's of different types. I find the tapered reverse spiral as you tested, just bite in and expand the broken fastener making it even tighter, ultimately stripping or breaking. The best type I used were the extractors with straight splines that get driven into the fastener. Even then I needed to apply a lot of heat first.
If the fastener is not stuck this bad then there are many ways of removing them
I had a stripped screw stuck in the back of my tv making it ao i couldnt remove the stand for wall mounting. The drill end, while underwhelming, did work, but i had to use the drill end then swap to the grab end on the next largest side for it to grab. Using both from the same sized drill bit just wouldnt work no matter what
Does the drill bit end just have a bad grind? Can you resharpen it?
I'm not sure what the exact issue is drill end, but all of the bits had the same issue so something with their design. I could probably re-profile them to see if they'd be more effective. Hmm..
Just proves you need to know what you are doing, and how to remove a stripped fastener properly.
I think a little technique and knowledge definitely go a long way. Thanks for commenting!
Yes, the extractor works very well on screws.. that are not stuck. But the one and only time I wanted to use one to get a stuck screw out (instead of drilling it) the extractor broke into the screw and then I had a MUCH harder time to grind the hardened steel extractor piece out of the screw before I drilled the f**ker out.
as a person who has had to drill out many screws, because they could not be extracted by any means, not in my experience.
What do I do if I already have a loose and sloppy hole? Improve my makeup skills?
I mean your odds are better than the lottery but probably 50/50.
To get it to work?
I only on occasion and sheer dumb luck get those basterds to work, and a small selection of left handed twist bits cost about the same (at least with those you can fail and still drill the screw out)
Left hand drill bits are super handy for sure.
I was never successful using them.
People are probably snapping them in an impact driver
You're probably right.
Err...what works best for me is using the correct type of extractor.
Looks like your drill bits need a little attention.
"a loose and sloppy hole" 💀
Lmao
Like most knock off tools, it doesn't surprise me that these bits are less capable than the originals. Just another reason why I avoid Amazon.
I'm not sure who invented the original design. It's too bad that the drill end was so poorly made, because the extractor end wasn't bad at all.
@@ShopHumor As I remember the first set of these I had was Grabit by Alden. They worked well for me until I loaned them to someone on a jobsite any the proceeded to destroy them. Considering how many companies now have extractors of this design I assume that the original patent expired.
I think you're correct about that.
I bought these. They didn't work for me.
I tried and failed to extract.doing it on car,drilled out
Did drilling it out work for you?
Dont use impact tools to remove
NO! Useless. These DO NOT WORK. Don't buy a set. You're better off using a spoon.
Learn to use a rotary tool to make a screwdriver slot. That, and learn the golden touch of patience so that you don't break screws and bolts. Go slow and lubricate, young men. Pro-tip: drill a pilot hole when using an impact-driver for anything you don't want to snap off. _Better procedure beats better remediation._
Wise words from a man who knows how to lubricate.
Just get left-handed drill bits.
Nothing wrong with left handed drill bits. Everyone should have a set.
🖖
Ayyy
@@ShopHumor Arrgh, pirate be ye
You'll have better luck with a cheap Harbor Freight flux core welder.
Might have to pick one of those up. Have been curious about their cheap welders.
your promotion of amazon, a company infamous for undermining human rights and quality of life, is not a good look.
No-one wants a loose and sloppy hole do they? That isn't a good thing
$10? Just order these direct from china for $4 and change canadian.
In my experience they don’t work
Nothing worse than a loose and sloppy hole.
lol