Any guesses as to what kit number two is in that box (i.e. my next project)? Hint: I've kinda... sorta... made one in the past. Maybe. Erik, you're not allowed to answer.
I always liked how Applied Science edits his videos; first show off the thing he made, then show the prototypes that didn't work and how it was made. For machining videos presented in "start with stock, end with part", I never quite understand what everything is going to look like at the end. So the videos where they show you the parts first, then make them, make a lot more sense. (Sure, when you're making something yourself, you don't get the actual part to work off of. But, you did model the part and plan the order of operations, so you start with a lot more context than UA-cam viewers get.)
Glad you agree grin 😁 Some folks prefer not seeing what I'm making, but I feel like if I didn't show at least a glimpse, no one would bother clicking the video 🤷♂
@@InheritanceMachining It does ruin some of the surprise of the finished item, but it does add another aspect to the video. Seeing a glimpse of the finished item and wondering "how in the heck did he machine that bit of it?" leaves me eager to see that particular operation
You’re mistaken, BSC/BSA is 24tpi, however Raleigh used 26tpi until standardisation and persisted for a while after to save changing their tooling in one factory. So 26tpi is Raleigh-thread
@@emilcarr7190 No, 26 TPI is British Standard Brass, and is what thin walled brass tubing is threaded at. However 26 TPI is common in older audio equipment, (potentiometers etc) as well as older car and bicycle stuff.
Same as so many others on here have already said, your attention to detail is phenomenal, the videos are likewise so beautifully presented, written and edited. It's also so refreshing to see the mishaps, the mistakes, the parts that come out wrong, or the tool not tightened. A huge thumbs up from me!
This was thoroughly enjoyable to watch, even as a non-machinist. I think I've seen most of your videos and within 1 second of seeing that black knob I knew that we'd be seeing some brass in the next shot. 😆 Beautiful work as always!
Brandon.... Your channel is literally like a medication for my ADHD and OCD... The fact that each step is explained, the manner in which you explain each process and the reason as to why you are doing it.. And the level of craftsmanship...the perfection that you achieve is utterly astonishing. Thank you for creating your channel and such incredible content. I am always so over joyed when I see a new upload
I’m not a machinist, I’m a soldier. However, I really appreciate just how much knowledge it takes to do what you do. Something is very relaxing about watching this, parts look great, awesome production value, you got yourself a subscriber!
He is the only machinist who explains what is being done from the "break it down to stupid level" all the way up to the calculus-based knowledge to design a project to see it completed. That is why I find his videos so entertaining and relaxing. I LOVE MATH and calculus, ohysics, and sciencey stuff.. However, one of my daughters is directionally (north, south, east west) and math challenged says, "Apples and oranges were never meant to be added or multiplied; they were meant to be SEPARATED!" She can write and edit papers like somebody who has a PhD is writing!
There is a fine tradition of machinists in the Army, still a few around. An instructor I met at former FT Lee was a military vehicle restorer. Got bored of Jeeps etc & was building out a WWII Mobile Machine Shop. All the tools were commercial off the shelf, in fact the military TMs are now some of the better manuals available. And if course the tool set included a shaper. 🙂
It's my belief that hex dies are for chasing existing threads and round dies are for cutting new threads. What do you think and what have your experiences been?
Yes, split dies to cut a new thread, the split gives the ability to adjust the thread somewhat, or do a couple of passes. The die nuts should only be used to renovate an existing damaged thread.
Dies are used for both creating new threads, as well as cleaning or repairing dirty or damaged threads. Dies designed for creating new threads are made with high speed steel, as opposed to re-threading dies, which are made from carbon steel. Thread dies are available in the split round adjustable, or hex varieties.
Correct, hex dies are for chasing threads not cutting, that's why they're Hexagonal in shape so you can use a wrench on them. To the ppl who will say "well I've used hex dies for cutting threads and it worked just fine yadda yadda" well you can also use a pair of pliers to pull your nose hairs or a Deburring tool to cut chamfers or use a wrench as a hammer but that doesn't mean that's what they were Designed for.
What a roller coaster today. I went from watching CEE make an adapter with tapers this morning. The whole time I was wondering how much more would be involved if you were to do it 😂 both turned out great. In machining there is truly more than one way to skin a cat.
I'm constantly impressed by both your attention to, and skills at achieving, the aesthetics of your work. On lathe threading: An old tool and die maker who gave me some training told me to, whenever possible, single point thread a part close to finish and then use a die to finish to size. He said this saved a lot of time and greatly reduced the risk of spoiling the part. Thanks for such great content!
I've heard about that technique but never took the time to try if out. I really need to though because 80% real time in single point threading is the last few thou getting it right 😆 Thanks, Bruce!
@@InheritanceMachining Indeed. Also: this is a valid use case for hex die nuts. It is not widely realised they are not intended for cutting threads from scratch, and it is risky doing so in anything stronger or tougher than mild steel.
What a satisfying video. The warmth in the videography, the casual stroll through the process, and the gratifying ending was just awesome. Thanks for this half hour!
I watch your videos because I work as a mechanical engineer but rarely have any feedback from the machine shops I subcontract to. Watched all your videos. Thank you for all the insights and showing the mistakes! Such a great learning material!
What a great project! You're only getting better! I have a tiny machinist tip that may help when using a coaxial indicator. When I set one up I use my indicator stand without an indicator in it to hold the body arm from rotating and thus not influencing possible error. Hope that makes sense! See ya on the next one!
Thank you sir! And that's a great tip. I used to do that exact thing but came to prefer just using my hand though i see now what you mean about possible up/down deflection causing error. I should do a test to see how much that affect it!
I guess a tap follower would be most appropriate. Beautifully done. Thanks for another enlightening and entertaining video. Would a somewhat longer handle help with those bigger dies?
Thanks Bruce! A longer handle would most certainly help but I was honestly surprised the little M6 thread at the base didn't snap off with the force i needed to hang onto it as is haha
16:40 For anyone else wanting to try a setup like this, keep your cuts light. Morse tapers don't like side loads and can wiggle free - that's why mills with MT spindles have drawbars even though Morse tapers are self-locking.
@@ronkellis769 Doesn't matter in the tailstock because the load is axial (and torsional) which MT is very good at. It's only once you start applying "wobbling" side loads that you can run into problems, which basically means that the taper has to be rotating. A drawbar for the _headstock_ is totally feasible though (I have one, though I think I've only used it once).
@@ronkellis769 Myford ML7 lathes have a hollow tailstock barrel with a large diameter external thread; it's the only lathe in common use I know of which can accomodate a drawbolt, and about the only thing about them which is better than the more refined Super 7 which shares the same bed and many parts. (Having said that, the S7 tailstock is far better in every other respect)
I love watching your videos even though I'm not a machinist. I like to apply some of the engineering aspects of your projects to some of my woodworking projects!
@@InheritanceMachining thanks for replying and always providing great content! I recently designed a computer monitor mount made of wood and I got to apply some of the engineering principles I learned in your videos. Many thanks and keep up the great work!
I always find pleasure in being the guy to tell everyone about Inheritance Machining being the best machining channel on UA-cam and that I discovered it first under my pears... until today (I study mechanical engineering 3rd year at stellenbosch University South Africa) my machine design Lecturer shared the link of this channel on our lecture slides. He suggested we watch your videos to show how things should be done. So unfair... now everyone in my faculty discovered your channel.
you say "the perfectionist in me" as it was a bad thing, your tools only come out as amazing and good as they always do, because of the perfectionist in you :)
As embarrassing as it is, I'm confident enough to say that it took me two days (thanks Patreon!) to figure out how that clutch works and it's basically nothing. Ah, well, today I understand more than I did yesterday! Edit: Also, it's nice to hear "long time viewer" and be included. It's been a great time!
@@samwise098 So, the die-holder assembly spins freely on the shaft, but when the handle is pushed or pulled the cones move outward and the die holder stops. The part I didn't get was that because you're putting forward force on it, it feeds the die into the part, making the cut. I . . . Huh. Do you run the lathe in reverse to get it off? Otherwise I guess I don't understand it. Point is the clutches just stop rotation, it's the operator pushing forward that actually begins the cut.
That's alright 😂 First time I saw the mechanism (in Jonesey Make's video) I didn't quite get it until I saw it in action. Also your description is exactly right. And I do have to reverse the lathe to back the die off. Probably could have made that a little more clear
Beautiful work!! From 7:43 to 9:00 You accidentally made an NPT thread!! Haha. Using trig to determine the delta for the tool radius to the final pass is totally the right way. My way? Trial and error! I'm curious if it would be easier to turn the die set to fit a single bore rather than worrying about the center. Another way would be to make a spring collet for the die so it can tighten with a nice snug collet nut (all custom of course).
Hey, it’s manny again here. I am probably an expert at picking back up threads, it’s one of the first things I had to get really good at and not because I just wanted to learn it, it’s because I messed up threads “a lot” when I was learning how to do it. I even have a BIG magnifying glass that has LED’s to see and get that carbide point aligned up perfectly. I still need it at times even years later. Glad to know others do it and I’m not as big of a moron as I kept telling myself I was. 😂 I like watching you create, I love being able to work with my lathe the “JFMT J1C 6240 w/ same apron as yours” and I finally acquired a mill, so many more opportunities just opened up for me. Which means a whole lot more magnifying glass times in my near future. Keep inspiring it trickles down to others.
Here I am feeding my son in the dead of night. Imagine my surprise when I saw the video drop. Now is watching the video the side project or is feeding the baby the side project to watching the video. Awesome work. Keep it up.
I worked in a machine shop for a bit and they had a tool post mounted version of one of these! They made hot rod brake conversion kits, so little pushrods where a common item to have to machine, and it made threading a few dozen at a time a breeze.
0:24 a trick i have learned is to support the back of the thread die with the tailstock (which should be a flat surface), letting the handle rest against another part of the lathe to transmit the torque, then by hand rotate the lathe chuck and thread it that way, that works pretty well.
Great workmanship as always and this turned out to be a very practical tool. A longer handle will make handling the torque easier from the longer leverage and it's only a longer threaded rod.
I have to admit my guilty pleasure is binge watching your videos. The combination of your voice and the precision of your craft just scratches that itch. If there's anything I can do.
0:04 there's also rolled threads. :) They are the strongest too. Bicycle spokes are specifically (always) rolled threads. Bonus, there's flat plate rolled threads (you usually see those for bolts, because they're good for conveyor factories) and roller rolled threads (those be the bicycle spokes and specific low number pieces).
In defense of the video maker, he did say there are two ways of CUTTING threads. (There are several other ways, including thread whirling, tangential self-opening chaser heads, and hand chasing (either single point or multiple conforming profile), but rolling is a different approach, neutral in the sense of being neither additive nor subtractive (which is particularly cool, I reckon). There may even be a female analog to thread forming (lobed, fluteless) taps which is another neutral option, but I've not come across it. It would certainly work for ultra ductile materials (copper, lead....) not much call for threads in lead, though, especially male threads.
Cool build it literally took me to be looking at the finished product to see how it worked....My grandfather would say something that rings true to your ethos...whenever he said something was excellent he would add "with brass knobs on" at the end......so here you have it.
haha nice. I might need to incorporate that in my vernacular. also same on the mechanism. had to find a video of it in action the first time I came across it. I think it was a Jonesey Makes video
Great video. When the black knob showed up on screen a little voice in the back of my head started chanting"BRASS...BRASS...BRASS" and you delivered. Thanks for that.
26tpi was a favourite of G.H Thomas, one of the old masters of British model engineering, he had a close association with Hemmingway kits producing kits for some of his tooling designs. As others have said 26tpi is B S cycle and British standard pipe threads. Nice video and work, thanks for sharing. Cheers
My dear friend,love your channel. Sure wish that in addition to this superb die holder you have made, you would also talk , dissect and build a geometric style die chaser. Pure bliss. IMHO, the ultimate in thread cuttting
25 years ago I worked with an 80+ year old machinist who told me that when he was starting out, they used to plane motor heads with a large file instead of a machine. But this was in Iceland and we didn't have machinery until after 1920 and only very rich companies dared to invest in such things so it wasn't common stuff until around after ww2.
Looking at it from a manual machining perspective this is a huge time saver when quickly knocking out any low precision thread. Sure you can use the regular wrench but as you showed the results are all over the place. This is the exact same amount of time to set up as a die wrench and it works infinitely better on the lathe. The fact you can trust it to make a halfway decent thread every time is a massive win. I usually avoid external dies like the plague but this makes me rethink it. Great video.
That’s a great idea to put the board across the way as you were sanding. I’ve been considering something like that and just haven’t done it. I appreciate the unintentional encouragement for me to do that to protect the machine.
Sure thing. That board actually doubles as a drop protection for when I'm swapping heavy chucks. never actually dropped one, but would hate to damage the ways!
Damn. 313k subscribers in less than 2 years. That's awesome bro, good for you. People know quality when they see it and your work speaks for itself. Your finished projects reminds me of This Old Tony.
Thanks a lot, man. I honestly didn't know we'd get this far, let alone this quickly. Just riding the wave trying to keep the projects how I would do them even if nobody was watching!
I have been watching for a while now and my son decided to watch with me. He love how satisfying it was and made me hit the subscribe button(my nemesis). Keep up the hard work and we love what your doing.
The only channel I follow that I get giddy when there’s a new video. Then I realize how many orders of magnitude above the home hobbyist he is! Well done!
No third set screw? Usually die holders have a pointed set screw to engage the split. There's also the issue of 180° vs 90° between the outer dimples. Still, a much fancier build than mine, which uses a removable handle to apply torque. BTW, with adjustable dies, you can open them up a bit for the initial pass and then close them down for the final pass. That reduces the required torque substantially.
Love your videos. Keep up the great work. I wonder if it would be possible to build a collet style mount for the adjustable dies without making the tool too long. Also, is that the box of shame, or the box of imperfection? A little of both?
I don't have any metal working gear. No lathe. No Mill. No intention of getting any. But these vids are great. They apply to any skills really and the non-intrusive nature of the production makes it fun to listen to while designing circuitry or doing cad. Good work man.
I really cant leave the urge to comment on this video to thank you for all you amazing videos, im learning to be a mechanic and have nothing to do with the work youre doing, but still i love these videos, theye are calming, interesting and fun to watch and i learn a lot that i can maybe later even use. So thanks a lot for making these amazing videos!
Your YT video title game is getting better, man! Love this title. A cool title like this is usually much better than a title describing the actual title
I'm so glad i'm not the only one that has to use tape with the thread wires. I paint the ends of them so i can find them when i inevitably drop them into the chip pan
I too inherited a bunch of tools and wish i could do the justice to them you show in all your videos. Good on you for honoring past generations and those that made us who we are.
There are at least THREE ways to cut male threads: single-point, with a threading die, and by ROLLING them. Commercial fasteners are almost always rolled. Rolling is faster, cheaper in large quantities, and results in a stronger fastener. It is required for aerospace and military-spec fasteners.
Do I understand that clutch mechanism correctly... When you push that lever it pushes that inside tapered block to catch with the outside tapered block and that makes it stop moving and the die can do its magic?
@2:49 i also have this box of old dies. Actually it are four boxes: imperial dies and taps, metric normal dies and taps, metric fine thread and metric extra long taps. Some of them are like 120 years old and i have dies and taps like M 7/9/11/13/15/17/19. They are all technically standard but i never ever saw a M13 tread in real life.
Fantastic content, this is only the second video of yours I've watched but as a Tool and Die Maker myself I can appreciate a talented artisan when I see one. Keep up the great work
Hey, I loved the project! I was wondering if it's possible to attach the lever to the carriage through a swivel joint of sorts so you decrease the risk of injury?
Why not machine a support guide that mounts on the lathe holding the handle and supporting it so it doenst kick side to side. All you need to do it hold the handle in to engage the clutch and the kicking is held by the guide slot ?
Those polished inserts are great, they'll even work on hardened material if needed, though the slightest rubbing or bump will break them. I've used them on GCr15 HRC 58-62, high carbon chromium bearing steel.
I have been watching your work for a few weeks now. All very nice, looked for the Hemmingway kits after this and was surprised they are here in the UK definatly the best version I have seen. Thanks for the great content.
Could the wobble in the larger threads be due to the amount of sideways force being applied to the handle pushing it off centre? Is there a way of adding another handle on the other side to balance it?
Very inspiring. I have a foot locker of shame, but that's a different matter. People with an inate takent they have put in the work to develop the necessary skills are my top inspiration. Thank you for including an easy to follow teaching method and your wife's willingness to help get it produced. One thought. Assuming you trust your work 🙂 put the handle on a small block of, dare I say it, wood on the carriage and engine the carriage feed. When you hit the end the release will, well release and the handle and block if wood simply slide. No danger of the handle flipping your hand into something harder than it is.
that's an old holder style that goes back decades when i apprenticed the lathe had one similar mounted in a manual indexed turret tailstock with a rack and pinion feed to move it versus a hand wheel on an old Gilman lathe . the die holder had a stirrup type yoke fixed to a fined pivot to pull the die forward and back
I almost never comment on UA-cam. But I had to tell you that, that! was one of my favourite videos you have ever done. Not sure if it was the brass knob or what. But the video was pretty entertaining. Thanks for all of the hard work you do making such quality videos.
Any guesses as to what kit number two is in that box (i.e. my next project)? Hint: I've kinda... sorta... made one in the past. Maybe.
Erik, you're not allowed to answer.
Machinist jack?
Hi. Your the reason I'm taking draw and design for production in highschool. I want to be an engineer when I an adult. Awesome video.
@@hunterlilmanallenWish I had done that in high school. Good luck
Slitting saw arbor?
3 ball bearings? 1 axial and 2 radial bearings? Make a grinding spindle so you don't abuse the old hand grinder?
Can't wait to see the "need a bigger box of shame" side project.
THE CANISTER OF CONTEMPT
@@Unstopapple THE BIN OF BANISHMENT
@@UnstopappleTHE BARREL OF BLOTS
The Bucket of Blunders
...where to put the bigger container if it is scrapped?
A wise woman once said : chamfers are what separates us from animals.
I also watch her channel
Blondi
What channel is that?
@@Cactusape blondihacks , the best machinist on UA-cam
i love that you put the tool on the thumbnail and in the intro, it make us stay for the journey not the end :)
I always liked how Applied Science edits his videos; first show off the thing he made, then show the prototypes that didn't work and how it was made. For machining videos presented in "start with stock, end with part", I never quite understand what everything is going to look like at the end. So the videos where they show you the parts first, then make them, make a lot more sense. (Sure, when you're making something yourself, you don't get the actual part to work off of. But, you did model the part and plan the order of operations, so you start with a lot more context than UA-cam viewers get.)
Glad you agree grin 😁 Some folks prefer not seeing what I'm making, but I feel like if I didn't show at least a glimpse, no one would bother clicking the video 🤷♂
@@InheritanceMachining It does ruin some of the surprise of the finished item, but it does add another aspect to the video. Seeing a glimpse of the finished item and wondering "how in the heck did he machine that bit of it?" leaves me eager to see that particular operation
@@corey_nz that's always my hope!
@@InheritanceMachiningThanks for these videos
26 TPI is a British Standard Cycle thread (BS Cy) traditional on bicycles. 95% of cycle threads are 26 TPI no matter the diameter.
So basically 1mm metric pitch, just 0.023mm off.
You’re mistaken, BSC/BSA is 24tpi, however Raleigh used 26tpi until standardisation and persisted for a while after to save changing their tooling in one factory.
So 26tpi is Raleigh-thread
@@emilcarr7190Wikipedia disagrees, and also other sources.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Cycle?wprov=sfti1
The bicycle connection makes a lot of sense, the clutch mechanism reminds me of a pedal brake
@@emilcarr7190 No, 26 TPI is British Standard Brass, and is what thin walled brass tubing is threaded at. However 26 TPI is common in older audio equipment, (potentiometers etc) as well as older car and bicycle stuff.
Same as so many others on here have already said, your attention to detail is phenomenal, the videos are likewise so beautifully presented, written and edited. It's also so refreshing to see the mishaps, the mistakes, the parts that come out wrong, or the tool not tightened.
A huge thumbs up from me!
Thank you very much, sir! It all comes with the territory so why act like those things don't happen? 😁
This was thoroughly enjoyable to watch, even as a non-machinist. I think I've seen most of your videos and within 1 second of seeing that black knob I knew that we'd be seeing some brass in the next shot. 😆 Beautiful work as always!
You know me well 😂
Brandon....
Your channel is literally like a medication for my ADHD and OCD...
The fact that each step is explained, the manner in which you explain each process and the reason as to why you are doing it..
And the level of craftsmanship...the perfection that you achieve is utterly astonishing.
Thank you for creating your channel and such incredible content. I am always so over joyed when I see a new upload
I'm glad to hear that, man! And thank you so much!
Just the voice as well! The voice is calm and assured. Brandon, do a podcast.
A hole being made the right size is just boring to me. But two pieces of metal get permanently fastened together is absolutely riveting.
Underrated
you mother fu...
excelent pun
I find your comment (Fasten)ating, hitting the point dead on Strikingly
Badum bum
@@publikintox892 tss- *Sound of a drum kit crashing down* did nobody fasten that up?
I’m not a machinist, I’m a soldier. However, I really appreciate just how much knowledge it takes to do what you do. Something is very relaxing about watching this, parts look great, awesome production value, you got yourself a subscriber!
Right back at you my soldier friend!
He is the only machinist who explains what is being done from the "break it down to stupid level" all the way up to the calculus-based knowledge to design a project to see it completed. That is why I find his videos so entertaining and relaxing. I LOVE MATH and calculus, ohysics, and sciencey stuff..
However, one of my daughters is directionally (north, south, east west) and math challenged says, "Apples and oranges were never meant to be added or multiplied; they were meant to be SEPARATED!" She can write and edit papers like somebody who has a PhD is writing!
Much appreciated, man. And thank you for your service! 🇺🇸
There is a fine tradition of machinists in the Army, still a few around. An instructor I met at former FT Lee was a military vehicle restorer. Got bored of Jeeps etc & was building out a WWII Mobile Machine Shop. All the tools were commercial off the shelf, in fact the military TMs are now some of the better manuals available. And if course the tool set included a shaper. 🙂
It’s sad how excited I get when I see a new video. 😂
How us it sad, it's amazing
Nah, He's one of the best machining channels on here definitely reasonable to get excited.
Not many get visual, content, and audio quality all in one.
Soothing and informative narration, inclusion of mistakes, and great production value. One of my favorite channels, for sure.
Nah, it means that you're a rational human being
not sad, but perfectly reasonable
Another fine example of your attention to detail, not just the machining, but the camera work to. thanks for taking the time
Much appreciated, Robert!
It's my belief that hex dies are for chasing existing threads and round dies are for cutting new threads. What do you think and what have your experiences been?
Nah not really. Both can be both but you can get descent result with a die if you just take a couple of passes with a single point cutter before hand
Yes, split dies to cut a new thread, the split gives the ability to adjust the thread somewhat, or do a couple of passes. The die nuts should only be used to renovate an existing damaged thread.
I've heard people say this, but otherwise have seen no evidence elsewhere to support it. I've used both types to cut threads with no issues.
Dies are used for both creating new threads, as well as cleaning or repairing dirty or damaged threads. Dies designed for creating new threads are made with high speed steel, as opposed to re-threading dies, which are made from carbon steel. Thread dies are available in the split round adjustable, or hex varieties.
Correct, hex dies are for chasing threads not cutting, that's why they're Hexagonal in shape so you can use a wrench on them.
To the ppl who will say "well I've used hex dies for cutting threads and it worked just fine yadda yadda" well you can also use a pair of pliers to pull your nose hairs or a Deburring tool to cut chamfers or use a wrench as a hammer but that doesn't mean that's what they were Designed for.
What a roller coaster today. I went from watching CEE make an adapter with tapers this morning. The whole time I was wondering how much more would be involved if you were to do it 😂 both turned out great. In machining there is truly more than one way to skin a cat.
You saw that too! 😂 It's the end result that matters
Everything you make, one would never guess was done manually.
Absolutely beautiful!
You are very kind, but thank you. Scotchbrite works wonders 😂
As my Grandad was fond of saying ( as it relates to mushy threads)
"Slow down Shane, we're in a hurry, and having to do it again takes time"
I really like that
I'm constantly impressed by both your attention to, and skills at achieving, the aesthetics of your work.
On lathe threading: An old tool and die maker who gave me some training told me to, whenever possible, single point thread a part close to finish and then use a die to finish to size. He said this saved a lot of time and greatly reduced the risk of spoiling the part. Thanks for such great content!
I've heard about that technique but never took the time to try if out. I really need to though because 80% real time in single point threading is the last few thou getting it right 😆 Thanks, Bruce!
@@InheritanceMachining Indeed. Also: this is a valid use case for hex die nuts. It is not widely realised they are not intended for cutting threads from scratch, and it is risky doing so in anything stronger or tougher than mild steel.
What a satisfying video. The warmth in the videography, the casual stroll through the process, and the gratifying ending was just awesome. Thanks for this half hour!
My pleasure! Thanks for following along!
Wow your lathe shots are a lot brighter
I watch your videos because I work as a mechanical engineer but rarely have any feedback from the machine shops I subcontract to. Watched all your videos. Thank you for all the insights and showing the mistakes! Such a great learning material!
I've been in your shoes! Glad they can be helpful
The rotary fixture table is always so nice to see! It really turned out quite a versatile tool!
Chamfered rounded corners are also so cool!
I'm glad you agree! 😆
Turned out beautiful, as expected. Looks like a longer handle is in order for bigger dies.
I'm more worried about that little m6 thread snapping off 😂 Thanks!
@@InheritanceMachining It's like a shear pin, just a much harder to replace one.
@@ADBBuild exactly. I discovered the same intentional failure point on my mill's quill handle a while back 😂
What a great project! You're only getting better!
I have a tiny machinist tip that may help when using a coaxial indicator. When I set one up I use my indicator stand without an indicator in it to hold the body arm from rotating and thus not influencing possible error. Hope that makes sense! See ya on the next one!
Thank you sir! And that's a great tip. I used to do that exact thing but came to prefer just using my hand though i see now what you mean about possible up/down deflection causing error. I should do a test to see how much that affect it!
I'm not a Machinest just a Mechanic but I enjoy watching you make quality Tools, your humour is just the right amount as are the Side Projects.
I guess a tap follower would be most appropriate. Beautifully done. Thanks for another enlightening and entertaining video. Would a somewhat longer handle help with those bigger dies?
Thanks Bruce! A longer handle would most certainly help but I was honestly surprised the little M6 thread at the base didn't snap off with the force i needed to hang onto it as is haha
16:40 For anyone else wanting to try a setup like this, keep your cuts light. Morse tapers don't like side loads and can wiggle free - that's why mills with MT spindles have drawbars even though Morse tapers are self-locking.
I didn't even know that. Thanks!
And for our next trick, a new center less handle for the tailstock so a drawbar can be installed to pull the MT tight. 🙂
@@ronkellis769 Doesn't matter in the tailstock because the load is axial (and torsional) which MT is very good at. It's only once you start applying "wobbling" side loads that you can run into problems, which basically means that the taper has to be rotating. A drawbar for the _headstock_ is totally feasible though (I have one, though I think I've only used it once).
@@ronkellis769 Myford ML7 lathes have a hollow tailstock barrel with a large diameter external thread; it's the only lathe in common use I know of which can accomodate a drawbolt, and about the only thing about them which is better than the more refined Super 7 which shares the same bed and many parts. (Having said that, the S7 tailstock is far better in every other respect)
That "Just a girl who likes Peckers" mug at the start of the video got me laughing
Brandon - what a gorgeous tool, and I can see that it works to perfection!
Thanks a lot, Ron!
I love watching your videos even though I'm not a machinist. I like to apply some of the engineering aspects of your projects to some of my woodworking projects!
Hey a lot of this stuff is pretty broadly applicable if you have an open mind 😁 Glad your following along!
@@InheritanceMachining thanks for replying and always providing great content! I recently designed a computer monitor mount made of wood and I got to apply some of the engineering principles I learned in your videos. Many thanks and keep up the great work!
I always find pleasure in being the guy to tell everyone about Inheritance Machining being the best machining channel on UA-cam and that I discovered it first under my pears... until today (I study mechanical engineering 3rd year at stellenbosch University South Africa) my machine design Lecturer shared the link of this channel on our lecture slides. He suggested we watch your videos to show how things should be done.
So unfair... now everyone in my faculty discovered your channel.
😂 I'm not gonna lie that's pretty awesome. I do appreciate you spreading the word while you could though!
This man and his puns.
It never gets old
you say "the perfectionist in me" as it was a bad thing, your tools only come out as amazing and good as they always do, because of the perfectionist in you :)
So glad to see you tackle this one. I bought two kits... because I know that I am going to f*** up something 😄
Honestly not a bad idea 😂
As embarrassing as it is, I'm confident enough to say that it took me two days (thanks Patreon!) to figure out how that clutch works and it's basically nothing. Ah, well, today I understand more than I did yesterday!
Edit: Also, it's nice to hear "long time viewer" and be included. It's been a great time!
Ok, so how does it work? I can't figure it out
@@samwise098 So, the die-holder assembly spins freely on the shaft, but when the handle is pushed or pulled the cones move outward and the die holder stops. The part I didn't get was that because you're putting forward force on it, it feeds the die into the part, making the cut. I . . . Huh. Do you run the lathe in reverse to get it off? Otherwise I guess I don't understand it. Point is the clutches just stop rotation, it's the operator pushing forward that actually begins the cut.
That's alright 😂 First time I saw the mechanism (in Jonesey Make's video) I didn't quite get it until I saw it in action.
Also your description is exactly right. And I do have to reverse the lathe to back the die off. Probably could have made that a little more clear
@@InheritanceMachining You're making a machining video, not a reference manual. It's all good, I just nerd sniped myself. :D
Beautiful work!! From 7:43 to 9:00 You accidentally made an NPT thread!! Haha. Using trig to determine the delta for the tool radius to the final pass is totally the right way. My way? Trial and error! I'm curious if it would be easier to turn the die set to fit a single bore rather than worrying about the center. Another way would be to make a spring collet for the die so it can tighten with a nice snug collet nut (all custom of course).
2:00 lol love the mug
Hey, it’s manny again here. I am probably an expert at picking back up threads, it’s one of the first things I had to get really good at and not because I just wanted to learn it, it’s because I messed up threads “a lot” when I was learning how to do it. I even have a BIG magnifying glass that has LED’s to see and get that carbide point aligned up perfectly. I still need it at times even years later. Glad to know others do it and I’m not as big of a moron as I kept telling myself I was. 😂 I like watching you create, I love being able to work with my lathe the “JFMT J1C 6240 w/ same apron as yours” and I finally acquired a mill, so many more opportunities just opened up for me. Which means a whole lot more magnifying glass times in my near future. Keep inspiring it trickles down to others.
wohoo a new video always gets us exited
Here I am feeding my son in the dead of night. Imagine my surprise when I saw the video drop. Now is watching the video the side project or is feeding the baby the side project to watching the video.
Awesome work. Keep it up.
Where did the moustache go?!?
Momma says that only
Beautifully made, and up to the impeccable standard we've come to expect on all of your projects Brandon. A real pleasure to watch.
You are very kind, Dave. Thank you!
Someone is making a cam for that lever action slop in the future.
Didn't catch the mug at 1:57 the first time, upon rewatching I can't unsee it 😅
Beauty is in the Die of the beHolder.
I worked in a machine shop for a bit and they had a tool post mounted version of one of these! They made hot rod brake conversion kits, so little pushrods where a common item to have to machine, and it made threading a few dozen at a time a breeze.
i enjoy watching the work you do not because what you make, but because the quality of the work you do.
0:24 a trick i have learned is to support the back of the thread die with the tailstock (which should be a flat surface), letting the handle rest against another part of the lathe to transmit the torque, then by hand rotate the lathe chuck and thread it that way, that works pretty well.
Great workmanship as always and this turned out to be a very practical tool. A longer handle will make handling the torque easier from the longer leverage and it's only a longer threaded rod.
Project kits like this are really fun to watch. Just seeing the ways you mix it up is very entertaining.
I have to admit my guilty pleasure is binge watching your videos. The combination of your voice and the precision of your craft just scratches that itch. If there's anything I can do.
Thank you, sir!
Very impressive build! And a LOT of work making the video explaining each step in this process. Thank you!
0:04 there's also rolled threads. :) They are the strongest too. Bicycle spokes are specifically (always) rolled threads. Bonus, there's flat plate rolled threads (you usually see those for bolts, because they're good for conveyor factories) and roller rolled threads (those be the bicycle spokes and specific low number pieces).
True. Just suggest caution with the "always." There is and will always be cheap junk. "Generally, usually, and most of the time." 🙂
In defense of the video maker, he did say there are two ways of CUTTING threads. (There are several other ways, including thread whirling, tangential self-opening chaser heads, and hand chasing (either single point or multiple conforming profile), but rolling is a different approach, neutral in the sense of being neither additive nor subtractive (which is particularly cool, I reckon). There may even be a female analog to thread forming (lobed, fluteless) taps which is another neutral option, but I've not come across it. It would certainly work for ultra ductile materials (copper, lead....) not much call for threads in lead, though, especially male threads.
Thread milling is another subtractive option, applicable to both internal and external threads (unlike thread whirling)
Cool build it literally took me to be looking at the finished product to see how it worked....My grandfather would say something that rings true to your ethos...whenever he said something was excellent he would add "with brass knobs on" at the end......so here you have it.
haha nice. I might need to incorporate that in my vernacular. also same on the mechanism. had to find a video of it in action the first time I came across it. I think it was a Jonesey Makes video
Great video. When the black knob showed up on screen a little voice in the back of my head started chanting"BRASS...BRASS...BRASS" and you delivered. Thanks for that.
1:32 in and already a side project... love it
Pleased to see the drafting machine on your desk. My dad had one on his desk. Watching you build the tool is very educational.
26tpi was a favourite of G.H Thomas, one of the old masters of British model engineering, he had a close association with Hemmingway kits producing kits for some of his tooling designs. As others have said 26tpi is B S cycle and British standard pipe threads.
Nice video and work, thanks for sharing.
Cheers
Absolutely, Brilliant work ! You're an inspiration. Thanks for your continued work.
Best,
Scott
My dear friend,love your channel. Sure wish that in addition to this superb die holder you have made, you would also talk , dissect and build a geometric style die chaser. Pure bliss. IMHO, the ultimate in thread cuttting
25 years ago I worked with an 80+ year old machinist who told me that when he was starting out, they used to plane motor heads with a large file instead of a machine. But this was in Iceland and we didn't have machinery until after 1920 and only very rich companies dared to invest in such things so it wasn't common stuff until around after ww2.
Looking at it from a manual machining perspective this is a huge time saver when quickly knocking out any low precision thread. Sure you can use the regular wrench but as you showed the results are all over the place. This is the exact same amount of time to set up as a die wrench and it works infinitely better on the lathe. The fact you can trust it to make a halfway decent thread every time is a massive win. I usually avoid external dies like the plague but this makes me rethink it. Great video.
That’s a great idea to put the board across the way as you were sanding. I’ve been considering something like that and just haven’t done it. I appreciate the unintentional encouragement for me to do that to protect the machine.
Sure thing. That board actually doubles as a drop protection for when I'm swapping heavy chucks. never actually dropped one, but would hate to damage the ways!
Damn. 313k subscribers in less than 2 years. That's awesome bro, good for you. People know quality when they see it and your work speaks for itself. Your finished projects reminds me of This Old Tony.
Thanks a lot, man. I honestly didn't know we'd get this far, let alone this quickly. Just riding the wave trying to keep the projects how I would do them even if nobody was watching!
I have been watching for a while now and my son decided to watch with me. He love how satisfying it was and made me hit the subscribe button(my nemesis). Keep up the hard work and we love what your doing.
😂 Hopefully you stick around for a while! Thanks
The only channel I follow that I get giddy when there’s a new video. Then I realize how many orders of magnitude above the home hobbyist he is! Well done!
I think that's a bit of a stretch, i just have a good editor 😂
But seriously, thank you 🙏
6:50 as a user of the metric system, this list is giving me a brain aneurysm
No third set screw? Usually die holders have a pointed set screw to engage the split.
There's also the issue of 180° vs 90° between the outer dimples.
Still, a much fancier build than mine, which uses a removable handle to apply torque.
BTW, with adjustable dies, you can open them up a bit for the initial pass and then close them down for the final pass. That reduces the required torque substantially.
Love your videos. Keep up the great work.
I wonder if it would be possible to build a collet style mount for the adjustable dies without making the tool too long.
Also, is that the box of shame, or the box of imperfection? A little of both?
Best use of Hemingway instructions I have seen!
I don't have any metal working gear. No lathe. No Mill. No intention of getting any. But these vids are great. They apply to any skills really and the non-intrusive nature of the production makes it fun to listen to while designing circuitry or doing cad. Good work man.
I really cant leave the urge to comment on this video to thank you for all you amazing videos, im learning to be a mechanic and have nothing to do with the work youre doing, but still i love these videos, theye are calming, interesting and fun to watch and i learn a lot that i can maybe later even use. So thanks a lot for making these amazing videos!
I was just saying how a lot of this stuff is still applicable in a lot of other areas! Glad you like it man!
So much beauty in the underpinning of our entire society - making things to make things.
Your YT video title game is getting better, man! Love this title. A cool title like this is usually much better than a title describing the actual title
As always, your machining, video technique and machining skills are a pleasure to watch!
It’s such a pleasure to see you at work.
You are taking shop made tools to a whole new level. Bravo!
I'm so glad i'm not the only one that has to use tape with the thread wires. I paint the ends of them so i can find them when i inevitably drop them into the chip pan
At school we had a similar tool. It had a spring system and you could twist it to add or decrease momentum.
I too inherited a bunch of tools and wish i could do the justice to them you show in all your videos. Good on you for honoring past generations and those that made us who we are.
There are at least THREE ways to cut male threads: single-point, with a threading die, and by ROLLING them. Commercial fasteners are almost always rolled. Rolling is faster, cheaper in large quantities, and results in a stronger fastener. It is required for aerospace and military-spec fasteners.
Do I understand that clutch mechanism correctly... When you push that lever it pushes that inside tapered block to catch with the outside tapered block and that makes it stop moving and the die can do its magic?
yup pretty much. I'm also resisting the rotation with the lever at the same time
@2:49 i also have this box of old dies. Actually it are four boxes: imperial dies and taps, metric normal dies and taps, metric fine thread and metric extra long taps. Some of them are like 120 years old and i have dies and taps like M 7/9/11/13/15/17/19. They are all technically standard but i never ever saw a M13 tread in real life.
@inheritancemachining , Any reason you can not fabricate a fence or a guide for the clutch lever to mitigate the ‘jarring’ under engagement?
Fantastic content, this is only the second video of yours I've watched but as a Tool and Die Maker myself I can appreciate a talented artisan when I see one. Keep up the great work
Thank you, sir!
1:26 please explain the airplane. I love RC planes and am intrigued as to what one is doing on your wall.
Hey, I loved the project! I was wondering if it's possible to attach the lever to the carriage through a swivel joint of sorts so you decrease the risk of injury?
Quality as usual you need to find a huge project where you can display all your skills, bravo.
Thanks for not being afraid to include the math-y bits. I love that hypotenuse stuff 👍
Pythagoras was da man
Why not machine a support guide that mounts on the lathe holding the handle and supporting it so it doenst kick side to side. All you need to do it hold the handle in to engage the clutch and the kicking is held by the guide slot ?
Those polished inserts are great, they'll even work on hardened material if needed, though the slightest rubbing or bump will break them.
I've used them on GCr15 HRC 58-62, high carbon chromium bearing steel.
Greetings from Australia, great to see another vid, top quality work as always.
I gotta say that die adapter and holder came out well. Interesting little project. Cant wait to see you putting it to good use in the shop.
Thanks, Jeff
Wooo I'm finally caught up! I absolutely love all your videos and watching the proses of all your projects from start to finish
Woohoo! Thank you very much
I have been watching your work for a few weeks now. All very nice, looked for the Hemmingway kits after this and was surprised they are here in the UK definatly the best version I have seen. Thanks for the great content.
Love it! Great work, nice chamfers, and such a great tool. I have not seen the clutched design before and enjoyed watching you make it. Thanks!
Thanks!
Could the wobble in the larger threads be due to the amount of sideways force being applied to the handle pushing it off centre? Is there a way of adding another handle on the other side to balance it?
Nicely done with the strategically placed coffee cup graphics. Your sense of humor is clucking hilarious. 😂
Very inspiring. I have a foot locker of shame, but that's a different matter. People with an inate takent they have put in the work to develop the necessary skills are my top inspiration. Thank you for including an easy to follow teaching method and your wife's willingness to help get it produced. One thought. Assuming you trust your work 🙂 put the handle on a small block of, dare I say it, wood on the carriage and engine the carriage feed. When you hit the end the release will, well release and the handle and block if wood simply slide. No danger of the handle flipping your hand into something harder than it is.
that's an old holder style that goes back decades when i apprenticed the lathe had one similar mounted in a manual indexed turret tailstock with a rack and pinion feed to move it versus a hand wheel on an old Gilman lathe . the die holder had a stirrup type yoke fixed to a fined pivot to pull the die forward and back
I almost never comment on UA-cam. But I had to tell you that, that! was one of my favourite videos you have ever done. Not sure if it was the brass knob or what. But the video was pretty entertaining. Thanks for all of the hard work you do making such quality videos.