I used that Rust-Oleum 2x on a set of dirt bike fairings. Followed the directions to a "t". Waited. 4 weeks even after spraying the base color and left the pieces in my heated garage. The paint looked nice and was cured. The second I hit it with the clear, same brand and type. The paint wrinkled up like is sprayed it with stripper. I even redid the pieces and instead of waiting I sprayed the clear within the recoat window using a plistic primer to start with. Let that sit a month. You could take your nail and pick at the edge of the part and Peel the paint off the plastic in sheets.I used a blowgun on my air compressor and just blasted the parts with air and the paint flew off easilly. Oh I forgot to mention I had even roughed the parts up with some 400 grit before painting the second time. I went out and bought krylon fusion and didn't have a single problem.the boys have wrecked and dropped the bike a few times now and just minor scuffs in the krylon.
Great point: Plastics that are going to bend are going to be problematic, i.e. fairings. The pros use a longer process. They go 400/600 grit / then de-greaser / then water/ then dry / then they use Bulldog Adhesion promoter (a bit pricey) / then they paint / then they clear with 2 part automotive clear. Then they cross their fingers and hope that the the customer doesn't bend the fairing and the paint cracks anyway. You did everything right except maybe de-grease and use 2 part clear. It is good to hear that Fusion is getting pretty good. They've been tweaking the formula for several years. I've had pretty good results with it as well. Thanks for the feedback. Clear coat in the can is crazy fickle. The only thing that I can suggest, if you have to use it, is to dust the first coat on to try to seal the first layer without giving it a chance to crackle. But in reality it can be hit or miss.
@@Commandodesigns yeah I'd never painted motorcycle plastics with Rust-Oleum before. I'd always used automotive paint, but those were on full sized bikes , this was a small 110cc pit bike and wouldn't have been cost effective to have automotive paint mixed up. And admittedly I suck with a spray can compared to. Having an hvlp gun in my hand.
Well I commend you for your bravery. I've been there, it's hard to justify the price of using the good stuff for small projects. I'll be honest with you, I don't really get it with rattle can clear. It's complete voodoo sometimes. I was going to make a video about the problems with spray can clear and I couldn't get it to have a problem. Then, of course, everytime I try to use it on a budget project it gets wierd. Thanks for the feedback.
Sometimes if the product is new or has been sealed, some of those cheap Chinesium plastic parts continue to off-gas and can be hard to paint. Getting paint to stick to them at all can be finicky at best. Especially if they have that plasticky smell to them, it's the same as properly cured paint. It might not have been an issue with the paint but a factor of time and letting the plastic finish off gassing and become "clean" enough to stick to paint. I've had that problem with stuff before like ordering blank white plastic masks for Halloween and the paint literally fell right off. It looked fine until the clear coat, the clear looked like shit and then it all just fell off... I gave them to my nephew the next year and let him experiment and they took paint perfectly fine. I spoke to my friend who owns a auto body/paint shop and he explained this all to me. He said sometimes cheap plastic body panels have the same problem and need to sit in a ventilated area for a while before he can paint them. I hope this info helps or makes you feel a bit better since it probably wasn't your fault. I had a nearly identical issue to yours painting a cheap 50cc motorcycle for my niece so I know how you feel. The kids don't understand and just want it to work and blame you... lol
I love your videos! My father passed a few years ago, I would ask him questions about things like this and the way you explain things is similar to how my father would and its just easy listening and comforting to watch while learning the information. Your videos teach me so much! but also i like your personality and delivery, the cadence when you speak feels very warm and you make everything simple, and take really really useful information and present it beautifully and precisly ! thankyou! Keep up the good work! your videos are a blessing, you are a good guy i can just tell.
Very thorough, besides the difference your spraying technique when demonstrating cold vs. warm cans. You painted in vertical lines with the warm can and painted “dottish”with the cold one. I’m sure you realized that already. I especially appreciated the tip regarding dry vs. cure time and clear coating. Thanks, man!
That’s how it comes out cold its not spraying solid. it doesn’t have the pressure, he is pushing the top down but its not coming out so he has to keep pumping the top
Wish he had gone into more detail of temperature & humidity of ambient air, and temperature of part as well. I’m having a recurring issue of paint going dull (gloss turns flat and color fade) along with cracking, and peeling. Seems like it happens when painting after the sun has set and humidity rises.
Warming up the can works nice when the can is getting low on paint also, itll build up pressure and spray more like a full can and youll get a nicer consistent job.
Just really enjoy these videos. I customize nerf guns. And the warming the paint tip and the waiting between color and clear tip, are seriously the best things I have ever heard. And have helped me greatly. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Tony D.....the Alpha Male. As a newbie to this craft......I love everything you do and everything you teach to the rest of us. Thanks so much for your knowledge and everything you do bro!!!
Good tips thanks, but there's no way I could do stop action on every stroke. I just go 2 to 3 in out on the sides of my project and come back in. I've never had that dumbbell problem.
Wow i feel like you did this video before , like back in 2015 , oh wait you did .hmmm why do the same video twice , just tell people if they ask that you did top ten vid already .....
Haha - he looks like he could be Sgt. Carter's grandson! Good stuff!
I used that Rust-Oleum 2x on a set of dirt bike fairings. Followed the directions to a "t". Waited. 4 weeks even after spraying the base color and left the pieces in my heated garage. The paint looked nice and was cured. The second I hit it with the clear, same brand and type. The paint wrinkled up like is sprayed it with stripper. I even redid the pieces and instead of waiting I sprayed the clear within the recoat window using a plistic primer to start with. Let that sit a month. You could take your nail and pick at the edge of the part and Peel the paint off the plastic in sheets.I used a blowgun on my air compressor and just blasted the parts with air and the paint flew off easilly. Oh I forgot to mention I had even roughed the parts up with some 400 grit before painting the second time. I went out and bought krylon fusion and didn't have a single problem.the boys have wrecked and dropped the bike a few times now and just minor scuffs in the krylon.
Great point: Plastics that are going to bend are going to be problematic, i.e. fairings. The pros use a longer process. They go 400/600 grit / then de-greaser / then water/ then dry / then they use Bulldog Adhesion promoter (a bit pricey) / then they paint / then they clear with 2 part automotive clear. Then they cross their fingers and hope that the the customer doesn't bend the fairing and the paint cracks anyway. You did everything right except maybe de-grease and use 2 part clear. It is good to hear that Fusion is getting pretty good. They've been tweaking the formula for several years. I've had pretty good results with it as well. Thanks for the feedback. Clear coat in the can is crazy fickle. The only thing that I can suggest, if you have to use it, is to dust the first coat on to try to seal the first layer without giving it a chance to crackle. But in reality it can be hit or miss.
@@Commandodesigns yeah I'd never painted motorcycle plastics with Rust-Oleum before. I'd always used automotive paint, but those were on full sized bikes , this was a small 110cc pit bike and wouldn't have been cost effective to have automotive paint mixed up. And admittedly I suck with a spray can compared to. Having an hvlp gun in my hand.
Well I commend you for your bravery. I've been there, it's hard to justify the price of using the good stuff for small projects. I'll be honest with you, I don't really get it with rattle can clear. It's complete voodoo sometimes. I was going to make a video about the problems with spray can clear and I couldn't get it to have a problem. Then, of course, everytime I try to use it on a budget project it gets wierd. Thanks for the feedback.
Sometimes if the product is new or has been sealed, some of those cheap Chinesium plastic parts continue to off-gas and can be hard to paint. Getting paint to stick to them at all can be finicky at best. Especially if they have that plasticky smell to them, it's the same as properly cured paint. It might not have been an issue with the paint but a factor of time and letting the plastic finish off gassing and become "clean" enough to stick to paint.
I've had that problem with stuff before like ordering blank white plastic masks for Halloween and the paint literally fell right off. It looked fine until the clear coat, the clear looked like shit and then it all just fell off...
I gave them to my nephew the next year and let him experiment and they took paint perfectly fine. I spoke to my friend who owns a auto body/paint shop and he explained this all to me. He said sometimes cheap plastic body panels have the same problem and need to sit in a ventilated area for a while before he can paint them.
I hope this info helps or makes you feel a bit better since it probably wasn't your fault.
I had a nearly identical issue to yours painting a cheap 50cc motorcycle for my niece so I know how you feel. The kids don't understand and just want it to work and blame you... lol
I love your videos! My father passed a few years ago, I would ask him questions about things like this and the way you explain things is similar to how my father would and its just easy listening and comforting to watch while learning the information. Your videos teach me so much! but also i like your personality and delivery, the cadence when you speak feels very warm and you make everything simple, and take really really useful information and present it beautifully and precisly ! thankyou! Keep up the good work! your videos are a blessing, you are a good guy i can just tell.
I feel like you were using the can different on the cold spray you didnt try the same motion at all, so I couldn't really get a good comparison
I thought the same, but good overall...
Lol right?!?!? Obviously he sprayed the warm can like a professional and the cold can like he was a simpleton.
I saw that too
Very thorough, besides the difference your spraying technique when demonstrating cold vs. warm cans. You painted in vertical lines with the warm can and painted “dottish”with the cold one. I’m sure you realized that already. I especially appreciated the tip regarding dry vs. cure time and clear coating. Thanks, man!
That’s how it comes out cold its not spraying solid. it doesn’t have the pressure, he is pushing the top down but its not coming out so he has to keep pumping the top
Wish he had gone into more detail of temperature & humidity of ambient air, and temperature of part as well. I’m having a recurring issue of paint going dull (gloss turns flat and color fade) along with cracking, and peeling. Seems like it happens when painting after the sun has set and humidity rises.
Hey thanks a lot for the tips,I really appreciate the no bullshit approach,you just got to it and I learned something.Thanks again.
Warming up the can works nice when the can is getting low on paint also, itll build up pressure and spray more like a full can and youll get a nicer consistent job.
Hey dude, 1 question, if I used adhesion promoter, would I need to use it on every coat or is it a one time thing onto the bare plastic? Cheers😎👍
Just between the plastic and paint
@@TheUglyBiker42069 thanks dude
Looked good. Did you wet sand between coats of paint and clear coats? How many coats if clear did you use?
So when you are waiting for the spray paint for plastic to cure what clear spray do you use for the finishing project
how long should i wait before painting over primer (enamel on enamel)?
Just really enjoy these videos. I customize nerf guns. And the warming the paint tip and the waiting between color and clear tip, are seriously the best things I have ever heard. And have helped me greatly. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Hey wow, thanks so much for the spray paint for fabric info! Yes!
Super informative. I love the video i tried to spray paint twice and you already tacle most mo my mistakes.
Not sure I am ever going to spray paint something with care but I still devour these tips! I will use the enamel tip for sure.
Cool man. Thanks.
Thanks. Content like yours makes U tube awsum. Great info.
Great tips thank you for sharing your amazing talent 👍
Love the ammo crate in the back ground very cool lol
Wow the more you know! Excellent 👍 point taken
Why did you spray the cold can like it was first day of Special ED?
You are the best , i learned something cool from you today , i do a lot of spraying thank you sir.
Can I spray white wait 10minutrs then spray red so the red stands out more or do I need to wait until the white cures
WOW I learned so much from you videos. Thank you sooo much
Dude, you're the man!
Great video
Great Tutorial !
Thank you
Using primer filler on 3D prints is this ok?
Graffiti weird things for mixing paint should be okay right?
Hey wicked video
Thanks
Good tips, thank you!
Keep on with the videos.
Sometimes when I layer colors, the top layer will pull away from the base. It's like oil and water.
How to spray paint rusty bicycle ?
And how to spray paint new bicycle ?
Please please keep bringing us tips sir i learn alot from you
this tip really helped, thanks
Thanks man.
Great video thanks:)
No probs. Thanks.
Tony D.....the Alpha Male. As a newbie to this craft......I love everything you do and everything you teach to the rest of us. Thanks so much for your knowledge and everything you do bro!!!
5:30. Wtf is that cold spray paint is that the same way you spray the warm one i dont think so ? Itay clump up but tgat was a very bad example.
Dude,its the same show but backwards!!!
Good tips thanks, but there's no way I could do stop action on every stroke. I just go 2 to 3 in out on the sides of my project and come back in. I've never had that dumbbell problem.
Wow i feel like you did this video before , like back in 2015 , oh wait you did .hmmm why do the same video twice , just tell people if they ask that you did top ten vid already .....
That's a paint process, not tricks
What!? Read the directions? What do you think we are women?
... puts can of spray paint in microwave...
his hands look so olddd