I would just cut to the chase and buy a set of second hand subframes and arms then get those blasted and powdercoated. I know the rear subframe and arms are identical to standard focus/STs, the front subframe is identical too (just the bigger front arb on the RS) but the front arms are different so youd need RS arms or have yours taken off then blast and powdercoat those at the same time. Its the lacklustre paint finish that Ford did on the subframes/arms that leads to the scabby-ness thatll just keep recurring.
I’ve about 30 years of experience of trying to slow down rust on every day driving vehicles. Such a pity the manufacturer doesn’t paint the subframes and running gear properly. For many years I used waxoyl it dries out and cracks I eventually stepped up to Dinitrol 3125. I have just tried lanoguard for two years and not very impressed. I’m going back to 3125 but will try fluid film as well but I think it’s similar to lanoguard. Lanoguard is easy to apply and better than nothing but it doesn’t stand up to washing like 3125.
Lanoguard costs £30 per application and you can do it yourself. The grease can cling to the worst places. Anything else is a lift and a garage on top of product cost.
I did my e46 m3 around 10 months ago, was under it today and was quite pleased on how it looked, have enough of the supply to re-apply soon. My rear arches are staring to bubble now. but it is a common issue.
I would get the sill ends done ASAP as you may have caught them just in time to grind the rust back, treat and seal. Much longer and they're going to need welding.
I’m just about to do my underbody too, so thanks for the inspiration. My rear wheel arches are bubbling too and above the top of the windscreen (weirdly)! Have you checked underneath the roof rack mounts? Water pools there, mine are starting to rust up there.
Hi mate thanks for watching! I haven’t dared to take off the roof rail trims yet haha. I might have a peak in the access points though. It’s off to the bodyshop soon for a bit of an assessment so we’ll see where I go from there.
If you’re interested in the best underbody protection then you want to try aviation product called Corban 23. The stuff is unreal. Not greasy at all, and forms a clear rubbery coat that last for over 5years. I had all my cars done like that and theres zero rust underneath. Can is around 30$ and you probably need 2-3 cans for ultimate protection
Worry about the surface rust on the body before the suspension beds and parts. It’s in good nick, just needs a spruce up round the edges….but who doesn’t? 😮😅
Yea the sill ends are a little concern now. It needs the skirts removing and then the arches doing and any rust on the sills doing all at the same time, along with that OS front wing. Free and Johnny are likely to do a stage 1 underside treatment for me over the winter.
I'm not that impressed really, especially if you have to redo it every year. I prefer Dinitrol treatments, particularly the black undercoat. It last years, and its only in high impact areas such as rear arches where you have to touch in the odd area where its washed away. For those of us who live up north where the roads are sprayed with salt for 6 months every year, Dinitrol is my preference.
That’s what I thought. Not impressed at all. Throwing money at it every year, you may as well save up for the next car 😂 And he has a ‘pre MOT inspection’ too. That’s another waste of money. I was an MOT tester by the way.
I like it and it gives me a chance to look around the underneath each year and check it’s all okay. Takes me about an hour and it really has prevented any rust from forming and where it is rusty seems to stop it getting worse.
@@PiaggioCenterpre mot give a chance to rectify before its recorded in motion history for all to see. A prospective buyer will see all first-time passes and think it’s well cared for
@@Cous1nJack MOT is rock bottom standards. Any well maintained car will fly through. I don’t think you have the first idea about the reality of MOT tests. I am a tester and authorised examiner by the way, which means I run MoT stations as well as undertake the tests. Your comment is nonsense. Who gives a toss about old mot failures being logged when their cars are so shit they fail 😂😂😂🫵🏻
Bilt hamber dynx uc for me the brown one as it’s heavy duty got it on both of my golf’s doesn’t wash of attracts a little dust but washes of use atom Mac after every wash cars look like new underneath
Sorry to say mate that basic Beaton black spray at a quarter of the price will offer just as good protection. The landrover guys think it’s rubbish as do I. General waxoyl based products would last ages bud
It’s interesting to see how the Lanoguard has held up to the test of time. It’s done something to aid the corrosion resistance. So your last video got me thinking about my MK4 Mondeo Titanium X. That’s an 08 reg, with the usual underside corrosion. So I applied Neutrarust 661 to kill the corrosion. Then applied Ambersil corrosion inhibitor. I’ll have to see how my rear subframe & arms see out the winter assault..?
@@CarFocused absolutely, yes. I’ve researched the Neutrarust 661, and it performs extremely well. So the Ambersil product has been used in my family on one of the cars. And it’s works really well on an 04 reg E46 330CI.
I’m planning on an underside resto over the next couple of years so just wanted a product that would halt any further corrosion and offer some protection in the meantime - this seemed to fit the bill!
I bought a 2017 Focus RS sold because of RUST in 2020 Stealth Grey . Spent just over $8,000 on paint, and I have the receipts. 😢😢 I will 1st say zero rust underbody , problems. Hood repaint 3 times, both areas where the front fender meets bumper and same where rear bumper meets body. Both sides Rust, Rust, rust... rear door handle area, front under doors, I was blown away, I wanted to keep the car so bad, but I'm not repainting any vehicle yearly.
@CarFocused at that age for sure, but at 23k miles I knew I was in for a ride so to speak... other than rust I will say the MK3 has the most capable drivetrain out of any vehicle out there.
Chassis guard- same stuff half the price and buy a spray bottle from b and m or a pound shop and apply it. It's still tacky and will attract grit that will stick to it??? Salt grit from a gritter hmmmm
@@CarFocused we've been building cars for a while now, i don t think we should normalize 15 years as "being old". There is enough technology to counteract these durability issues but it seems that the business model seems to follow Apple, one small upgrade each year so you can sell more.
Wouldn’t touch a Ford !! Never had one ! Only German or Japanese is the moto ! Dad swears by his fords ! Constantly something wrong with them ! New cars ! breaking down rust issues electrical issues ! Nope 👎🏻
It does last twelve months it just starts become weathered by then so just needs a top up it’s not gone completly by the end of every twelve months and it’s not exactly expensive stuff? It’s so easy to apply and costs like 100 quid which while last a few years. Far cheaper than replacing bushes or suspension that will perish if there left unprotected. People spend than much on a night out! It’s a bargain if you ask me
Apologies for the audio not being the best. Turns out my mic wasn’t properly plugged in so it was defaulting to my phone mic 🤦🏼♂️
Just had my 911 done. Any form of preservation can only be good 😊👍
Finally someone has done an update video. Sounds like it’s done a decent job. Will do mine before she is garaged up for the winter. Great video 👍🏽
Go for it! Thanks for watching!
Great comment. Saves me having to watch the video 😂
I spray on transmission oil or vegetable oil to the underside. Its very cheap and works for 6-12 months depending on use
I would just cut to the chase and buy a set of second hand subframes and arms then get those blasted and powdercoated. I know the rear subframe and arms are identical to standard focus/STs, the front subframe is identical too (just the bigger front arb on the RS) but the front arms are different so youd need RS arms or have yours taken off then blast and powdercoat those at the same time. Its the lacklustre paint finish that Ford did on the subframes/arms that leads to the scabby-ness thatll just keep recurring.
I hear you mate. This will happen eventually I promise 😂
I’ve about 30 years of experience of trying to slow down rust on every day driving vehicles. Such a pity the manufacturer doesn’t paint the subframes and running gear properly. For many years I used waxoyl it dries out and cracks I eventually stepped up to Dinitrol 3125. I have just tried lanoguard for two years and not very impressed. I’m going back to 3125 but will try fluid film as well but I think it’s similar to lanoguard. Lanoguard is easy to apply and better than nothing but it doesn’t stand up to washing like 3125.
Enjoyed the update on the lanoguard would love to see fjrs with there own you tube channel .
I've got 2 say 4 it's year the RS isn't looking 2 shabby underneath I'd be happy with that Gary
Yea it could be a lot worse for a 14 year old car!
Lanoguard costs £30 per application and you can do it yourself. The grease can cling to the worst places. Anything else is a lift and a garage on top of product cost.
Good to see your prevention work is still doing it’s job.
Not bad at all considering you did it on the drive mate. 👍🏻
Exactly mate. Can’t complain too much!
Great video mate. As the car is a keeper, you can certainly plan to the rust and floor repairs when it suit you.
Totally mate. Plus she is 14 years old now so a little rust is expected. It’s nothing major but needs sorting.
I did my e46 m3 around 10 months ago, was under it today and was quite pleased on how it looked, have enough of the supply to re-apply soon. My rear arches are staring to bubble now. but it is a common issue.
I would get the sill ends done ASAP as you may have caught them just in time to grind the rust back, treat and seal. Much longer and they're going to need welding.
That’s the plan mate. Ideal winter work I guess. May as well get the arches done too!
Deffintely. On the whole though it doesn't loot too bad. Just needs a bit of preventative work to tidy it up as they all do now.
Going to use this product myself on my Mk3 ST Focus after seeing this update. Cheers 👍
Awesome 👍🏻
I’m just about to do my underbody too, so thanks for the inspiration. My rear wheel arches are bubbling too and above the top of the windscreen (weirdly)! Have you checked underneath the roof rack mounts? Water pools there, mine are starting to rust up there.
Hi mate thanks for watching! I haven’t dared to take off the roof rail trims yet haha. I might have a peak in the access points though. It’s off to the bodyshop soon for a bit of an assessment so we’ll see where I go from there.
That's alot of rust, is that typical on a ford?
nice just done my MR2....that overspray I thought at first the liners were off!!!! Jeez
Does my head in mate - the previous owner had the front arch repaired after it was dented and they made a right mess in there 🤦🏼♂️
If you’re interested in the best underbody protection then you want to try aviation product called Corban 23. The stuff is unreal. Not greasy at all, and forms a clear rubbery coat that last for over 5years. I had all my cars done like that and theres zero rust underneath. Can is around 30$ and you probably need 2-3 cans for ultimate protection
Worry about the surface rust on the body before the suspension beds and parts. It’s in good nick, just needs a spruce up round the edges….but who doesn’t? 😮😅
Yea the sill ends are a little concern now. It needs the skirts removing and then the arches doing and any rust on the sills doing all at the same time, along with that OS front wing. Free and Johnny are likely to do a stage 1 underside treatment for me over the winter.
Looking pretty good under there Gary 👌
Thanks 👍
Doing something is better than doing nothing. 99% of owners do nothing to protect their cars from rust.
Totally mate.
I'm not that impressed really, especially if you have to redo it every year. I prefer Dinitrol treatments, particularly the black undercoat. It last years, and its only in high impact areas such as rear arches where you have to touch in the odd area where its washed away. For those of us who live up north where the roads are sprayed with salt for 6 months every year, Dinitrol is my preference.
It's very good for a do it yaself product saves money and doing every year os no big deal
That’s what I thought.
Not impressed at all.
Throwing money at it every year, you may as well save up for the next car 😂
And he has a ‘pre MOT inspection’ too. That’s another waste of money. I was an MOT tester by the way.
I like it and it gives me a chance to look around the underneath each year and check it’s all okay. Takes me about an hour and it really has prevented any rust from forming and where it is rusty seems to stop it getting worse.
@@PiaggioCenterpre mot give a chance to rectify before its recorded in motion history for all to see. A prospective buyer will see all first-time passes and think it’s well cared for
@@Cous1nJack MOT is rock bottom standards.
Any well maintained car will fly through.
I don’t think you have the first idea about the reality of MOT tests. I am a tester and authorised examiner by the way, which means I run MoT stations as well as undertake the tests.
Your comment is nonsense. Who gives a toss about old mot failures being logged when their cars are so shit they fail 😂😂😂🫵🏻
Did my fiesta st a couple of months ago and I hope it’s a worthy investment
It’s good stuff mate.
Bilt hamber dynx uc for me the brown one as it’s heavy duty got it on both of my golf’s doesn’t wash of attracts a little dust but washes of use atom Mac after every wash cars look like new underneath
Am same as you with my mk2 rs i could do with a week on cleaning under the car then treat it.
Get it done mate you’ll be happy when it’s finished!
Sorry to say mate that basic Beaton black spray at a quarter of the price will offer just as good protection. The landrover guys think it’s rubbish as do I. General waxoyl based products would last ages bud
Does it dry or stay moist,I don’t want loads of dust sticking to it
Those lift arms are basically touching the bottom side of your sideskirts, hope theres no damage 🤒
Nah no damage mate it’s the lightest of touches. They’ll be resprayed soon anyway 😂
Are you just sealing in rust ?
Obviously, you didn't treat the rusty areas, maybe double coats next time 😅
How many miles since you did it mate ?
It’s interesting to see how the Lanoguard has held up to the test of time. It’s done something to aid the corrosion resistance.
So your last video got me thinking about my MK4 Mondeo Titanium X. That’s an 08 reg, with the usual underside corrosion. So I applied Neutrarust 661 to kill the corrosion. Then applied Ambersil corrosion inhibitor.
I’ll have to see how my rear subframe & arms see out the winter assault..?
Would be interesting to see how it performs!
@@CarFocused absolutely, yes. I’ve researched the Neutrarust 661, and it performs extremely well. So the Ambersil product has been used in my family on one of the cars. And it’s works really well on an 04 reg E46 330CI.
How's the corrosion protection going?
Did you consider using a "rust converter" product ?
I’m planning on an underside resto over the next couple of years so just wanted a product that would halt any further corrosion and offer some protection in the meantime - this seemed to fit the bill!
i think Lanoguard is about £70 odd Quid, i'd rather just Scrape the rust off and Spray it with Hammerite or something
I bought a 2017 Focus RS sold because of RUST in 2020 Stealth Grey . Spent just over $8,000 on paint, and I have the receipts. 😢😢 I will 1st say zero rust underbody , problems. Hood repaint 3 times, both areas where the front fender meets bumper and same where rear bumper meets body. Both sides Rust, Rust, rust... rear door handle area, front under doors, I was blown away, I wanted to keep the car so bad, but I'm not repainting any vehicle yearly.
That sucks man. Ford have been terrible at rust protection over the years 😢 I kind of expect it with my car now though as it’s nearly 15 years old.
@CarFocused at that age for sure, but at 23k miles I knew I was in for a ride so to speak... other than rust I will say the MK3 has the most capable drivetrain out of any vehicle out there.
I swear by the stuff, mines holding up well!
Yea it’s good stuff mate as you can see mine is still doing well too 👍🏻
Not suprised the Mountune ST hasnt sold, waay overpriced.
Owner wouldn’t budge on price for ages!
Does lanoguard attract dirt?
You will find that little bits of road dust will stick to it over time.
I wouldn't want to apply something every 12 months...every 3 years maybe
Has anyone tried dry ice cleaning then apply
But Fords are made to rust😀
Lol pretty much! 10 year lifespan 😂
Chassis guard- same stuff half the price and buy a spray bottle from b and m or a pound shop and apply it. It's still tacky and will attract grit that will stick to it??? Salt grit from a gritter hmmmm
It’s shocking a 09 can rust so bad
It’s 15 years old now, they don’t last forever. Similar age BMW’s can also be shocking!
@@CarFocused we've been building cars for a while now, i don t think we should normalize 15 years as "being old". There is enough technology to counteract these durability issues but it seems that the business model seems to follow Apple, one small upgrade each year so you can sell more.
@@ridewithandrei totally agree but it’s a 15 year Old Ford - it’s always going to happen 😂
Just use ACF50
Wouldn’t touch a Ford !! Never had one ! Only German or Japanese is the moto !
Dad swears by his fords ! Constantly something wrong with them ! New cars ! breaking down rust issues electrical issues ! Nope 👎🏻
Waxyol is cheaper
Where is the orange focus st advertised @carfocused
It’s been on Autotrader bud 👍🏻
Waxoil better or save your oil from oil change and use that it’s free and lasts
Used engine oil contains acid as a result of the chemical reaction between exhaust gas and water.
So it will eat metal over time
It’s rubbish it doesn’t even last 12 months, absolutely useless, every year omg waste of money
It does last twelve months it just starts become weathered by then so just needs a top up it’s not gone completly by the end of every twelve months and it’s not exactly expensive stuff? It’s so easy to apply and costs like 100 quid which while last a few years. Far cheaper than replacing bushes or suspension that will perish if there left unprotected. People spend than much on a night out! It’s a bargain if you ask me