Very informative with a great range of products. Thanks for covering them, as you say it may well help others working on their cars to ascertain which would suit their conditions and the route they go down.
I love it. With the lance attachment you can do inside skirts and chassis rails. I’d let it dry for 48hr otherwise dirt sticks to it but it never really fully drys. I removed it after 12 months with the remover and it’s perfect underneath I then reapply for another 12 months best on the market.
I have used Lanoguard for the last year or so and it has provided good protection to date. Does need re-applying annually but as you have seen it doesn’t take long to spray the underside of a Mini so it is the product I will continue to use for my 2 Minis.
You missed out what I believe is the best of them all. Dynax UB (Underbody, a sort of dark brown colour) or UC (the clear version) by Bilt Hamber. Along with just about everything I've seen from Bilt Hamber it's excellent stuff. Sprays on easy, is very thin but evaporates quickly and stays put, doesn't run and it never totally dries, is 'thin film' and can be removed with thinners if needs be, it's 'self healing' so will close up again if chipped or scratched. I've found it over many years to be a very effective long-term treatment and the clear version (UC) is brilliant on a freshly restored car where you don't want to cover it all in black gunge, you can't tell it's on there as it really is clear.
Brilliant UA-cam, i have a Mazda mx5 , golng in nexr week, to get lanegard treatment, hope its a good treatment.i have found been in Scotland and on the Mazda club site , they saying don't use it , pay £500 to £1000 for under seal . But this is a chap that has is own business, nothing against him .but £150 against £500 you diside?. Thanks ian
I used Gravitex on my full rebuild mini and thought it was excellent, there's another called Raptor which is supposed to be similar. Por 15 beat all its competitors handsomely on Project Farm YT channel but as you mentioned, the tin is a right pain, the lid seals shut and you have to cut it open, I tried using cellophane before the lid but didn't work, poor design but very good stuff. Not used the Lanogaurd, looks good.
Here in North America, where many roads are heavily salted for up to 6 months of the year, rusting is a huge issue. In my experience, any of the paint type undercoats, rubberized or "truck bed liner" types, all suffer from chipping/flaking because of preexisting rust or just from stone chips etc. Once that begins, water gets trapped in the flaking material and will do serious perforation damage to the metal. Have seen many a long term review on FluidFilm or similar products that are not a drying paint at all. The product stay "fluid" and adhered to the surfaces, seeps into all cracks and cervices, and holds up really well to road spray/grit and grime. I suspect your Lanokote product is similar, using natural lanolin (sheep wool wax), so may be a great option for you. Here is a long term review of FluidFilm used in North America under winter driving conditions: ua-cam.com/video/IGb8aNRliTM/v-deo.html&pp=ygUJZmx1aWRmaWxt
Very informative with a great range of products. Thanks for covering them, as you say it may well help others working on their cars to ascertain which would suit their conditions and the route they go down.
I love it. With the lance attachment you can do inside skirts and chassis rails. I’d let it dry for 48hr otherwise dirt sticks to it but it never really fully drys. I removed it after 12 months with the remover and it’s perfect underneath I then reapply for another 12 months best on the market.
I have used Lanoguard for the last year or so and it has provided good protection to date. Does need re-applying annually but as you have seen it doesn’t take long to spray the underside of a Mini so it is the product I will continue to use for my 2 Minis.
Sounds good, plan is to do it on the camper too, I was really pleased with it, other than it smelling like a cow shed lol
You missed out what I believe is the best of them all. Dynax UB (Underbody, a sort of dark brown colour) or UC (the clear version) by Bilt Hamber. Along with just about everything I've seen from Bilt Hamber it's excellent stuff. Sprays on easy, is very thin but evaporates quickly and stays put, doesn't run and it never totally dries, is 'thin film' and can be removed with thinners if needs be, it's 'self healing' so will close up again if chipped or scratched. I've found it over many years to be a very effective long-term treatment and the clear version (UC) is brilliant on a freshly restored car where you don't want to cover it all in black gunge, you can't tell it's on there as it really is clear.
That sounds really good. I will add it to my list of things to try, thanks
I use underseal for high impact areas- arches and part of the unercarrage. Waxoyl for everything elese.
Brilliant UA-cam, i have a Mazda mx5 , golng in nexr week, to get lanegard treatment, hope its a good treatment.i have found been in Scotland and on the Mazda club site , they saying don't use it , pay £500 to £1000 for under seal . But this is a chap that has is own business, nothing against him .but £150 against £500 you diside?.
Thanks ian
I used Gravitex on my full rebuild mini and thought it was excellent, there's another called Raptor which is supposed to be similar.
Por 15 beat all its competitors handsomely on Project Farm YT channel but as you mentioned, the tin is a right pain, the lid seals shut and you have to cut it open, I tried using cellophane before the lid but didn't work, poor design but very good stuff.
Not used the Lanogaurd, looks good.
Here in North America, where many roads are heavily salted for up to 6 months of the year, rusting is a huge issue. In my experience, any of the paint type undercoats, rubberized or "truck bed liner" types, all suffer from chipping/flaking because of preexisting rust or just from stone chips etc. Once that begins, water gets trapped in the flaking material and will do serious perforation damage to the metal. Have seen many a long term review on FluidFilm or similar products that are not a drying paint at all. The product stay "fluid" and adhered to the surfaces, seeps into all cracks and cervices, and holds up really well to road spray/grit and grime. I suspect your Lanokote product is similar, using natural lanolin (sheep wool wax), so may be a great option for you. Here is a long term review of FluidFilm used in North America under winter driving conditions: ua-cam.com/video/IGb8aNRliTM/v-deo.html&pp=ygUJZmx1aWRmaWxt
Great, thanks and fingers crossed the lanoguard is the solution
Similar here in the UK, roads salted over winter, wet for most of the year, in May now and still raining all the time
Does the gravitex disguise crap welding?
No, practice does😂
Ankor wax by Morris lubricants. The best.
Wear a mask when spraying Lanoguard!
ACF50 .