Products featured in this video: Surface Shield Gallon: amzn.to/2YpscVq Surface Shield 5 Gallon: amzn.to/30rrrvK Surface Shield Aerosol: amzn.to/3BIUgk8 Surface Shield Black!: amzn.to/3BQjLFW Fluid Film: amzn.to/3mQbiZy Fluid Film Black:amzn.to/4elPw7s Woolwax: amzn.to/401ElNE Spray Gun: amzn.to/3bIN9gX Aerosol Can Spray Handle: amzn.to/3EUpE1b Inner Cavity Spray Wand for Aerosol: amzn.to/3T8gmVZ Mask: amzn.to/40FB07o My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
People complaining about "damage" to rubber components? Gtfo with that shit. Here in Scandinavia everyone uses underbody coatings. It's not magic, it's very simple. Unfortunately it's pretty expensive to have done, so people who don't plan on having the car for long, don't do it, and passes the problem on to the next guy.
I would advise to not use those rubber lift pads with coatings. I had a truck fall off the lift because the pads slid off the frame. Use metal pads or rubber with ears so it can't slide off. It was a real mess. It ended up on it's side between the post. I've seen the pads slide off the frame on 3 different trucks. So it is a real concern.
@coldfront7914 from other testing done, Surface Shield sticks the best, specifically to areas subjected to water spray from the road. Another channel tested several coatings and found this.
2000 Toyota 4Runner. Removed the door panels, removed drain plugs on rockers, drain plugs under the doors, sprayed inside and out with Fluid Film. Every year since 2004. Still showroom condition. No rust anywhere to be found. Paint still shines. Very proud of the looks of this vehicle. And this in the Road Salt Capital of The U.S. Northern Wisconsin
@@-_----- I'm sure the answer is no. Your car would look horrific if you doused the finish in this stuff. Plus, the panel rot typically begins from the inside. Finished areas under the car/in wheel wells/hidden, sure why not. I use CRCs corrosion inhibitor cosmoline spray, and hit unibody pinch welds and sometimes the folded fender piece that attaches the splash shields.
@@-_----- Nope. Just frame, suspension, under side of body, and where ever I could spray inside body. Coated rear bumper and trailer hitch extra heavy. Ceramic coat outside.
1997 4runner, i bought it for 4 grand with 460,000km, its never had that. if i hit a speed bump too hard itll snap in half. i live in fear of police as an inspection will surely mean its end
I've seen people complain about all the dirt that sticks to the protectant stuff. The dirty underside is irrelevant. Slap rust protection everywhere under there, nobody sees the bottom anyway. The dirt wont eat your vehicle, but the rust will.
I always ask people, would you rather work on something that's a little dirty but wipes away clean and everything unbolts fine, or a rusted, rotted nightmare where you have to torch every nut and bolt?
Dirt is actually the real problem because dirt acts like a sponge to hold moisture in against vehicle bodies. However, salt is also another big problem
Im still using up my fluid film. Definitely has made a difference. Crazy how many people blow me off when I tell them they should do this to their vehicle
Funny - my 2023 Forester is the first car I’ve ever coated (with Krown). When I took it to my Subaru dealer for my free oil change, the service folks came out to me in a panic. I was told there’s oil all under the car (with only 3,000 miles). I guess they thought the car blew every gasket. I’m glad they noticed and communicated. I’ll remind them next time so the service tech doesn’t have a heart attack again.
A mechanic worth their salt (haha) in a northern environment should have an idea what this is. My shade tree alinement guy in Detroit knew immediately what it was. Brought my van to the dealer for recall work and they wanted to charge me hundreds to find my oil leak.
Not surprising since it looks like that vehicle has been leaking oil like a sieve from everywhere, what he's saying is filthy dirty looks like it's actually oil! And the one that's showing some surface rice is not leaking any oil to coat the parts underneath its bone dry! Am I the only one who noticed this?
Very interesting stuff. Living in mn I have seen a lot of trucks rot away. Its something that really needs to be pushed and actively documented. Grat stuff man, keep it up.
Fluid Film my Rams in Maine. Traded my last Ram with 300,000 miles and 12 Maine winters, no rust, got $11,500 trade in on my new Ram in 2017 from the dealer. Now my 2017 Ram has 180,000 miles, no rust. I see lots of newer vehicles that are rusting away that were untreated.
Yup, 5.7 hemi with a hot cam , nitrous and 3,000 rpm converter. Ran it at NEDW , Englishtown and Winterport dragway. Only had to replace a fuel pump at 275k. 2005 QC Thunder Road 4x4 with 3:92's.
My cars do not rust because of the Lanolin I spray on them. And when I sell my cars, I show the potensial buyer your videos, and they allways end up buying my car without negotiation. So, thank You! ☺️
Do believe your testing of these undercoatings. Been using Fluid Film for 8yrs. Had my 2015 F350 undercoated and rustproofed at the dealer when I purchased it new. After a couple years I noticed the some undercoating gone. I started spraying Fluid Film on the undercarriage, and never looked back. I touch it up each season. The truck will be 10 in May, and still no rot, underneath or on the body. I swear by Fluid Film. Truly enjoy your content. Thank you.!
I'm sure this comment will get lost in the sea of others, but I will say this. If you haven't undercoated your vehicle yet, WASH the underside of your vehicle. Whether you do it yourself at home or if you go to a carwash, just wash off all that salt and dirt during those winter months. I know it's cold outside and a pain, but it will help a lot. I didn't get my truck undercoated but I did wash it almost every week religiously taking the time with my power washer to spray all that nasty salt mix off the frame. It definitely helps!
This is what I do, an the end of the work week and after a heavy salt day. Takes 5-10mins to do both vehicles. I have my wall mounted 100' pressure washer in my garage, it's not heated but I drain it hookup everytime I use it, have the underbody pressure washer attachment I roll under the car to hit underneath. My 2012 has 0 rust. My 2009 which I don't keep in garage and don't pressure wash is beyond rotted but it's a 3500 I just can't do hd stuff with anymore.
To add, use a wash called salt away. It takes away the surface tension of the water and allows the water to way way better absorb the salt and then it drips off. This is what they use to rinse off salt water from boats. Wash with salt away first, then coat with fluid film or whatever
Started using Surface Sheild on my 2003 Silverado about three years ago. Silverado had more rust than the 2018 in this video. Been happy with how well the coating has stopped further deterioration. Thanks for sharing!
What are you using? I have a 95 GMC Sierra, it has some rust not as bad as this truck but I'd like to be able to put something on it to prevent further deterioration.
Just bought an 07 Jeep Liberty 110k on it with slight upperbody rust. The underside is rustville front to rear. I've had the struts+shocks replaced and had three cans of Surface Shield coating applied to all surfaces underside. So, from the rustbelt thanks for the good review you've stated.
Wish I knew about this sooner, I wouldn't have had to buy a new gas tank, control arm and weld the rocker panels on my 05 toyota matrix. Started using surface shield last year after watching your videos, now I tell everyone I know about oilcoating their cars! You're single handedly saving the world millions of dollars, dude! 😂
My dad started driving a Ford Model T, so I have been driving Fords for over 60 years. My company has been plowing snow and applying salt in Minnesota for almost 60 years. Those trucks really rusted bad having salt in the box for about six months each year. Some of the trailers used to haul small equipment would have to be scrapped after seven years, the frames were rusted out so bad. I started out spraying the trucks with used motor oil. That worked great, but it only lasted for about three days and it was gone and had to be reapplied. Now I use lanolin products. On the plows I try to touch them up every month and they look rust free. My cars an pickup I touch up every year. Finding leaks, no problem. Whey stopping for gas or snacks or before leaving with a truck or piece of equipment we look underneath for oil drips. If we find any we make note of the location on the repair request for that vehicle. For the slow drips knowing the location of the leak on the ground, the mechanic will put dye in the suspect component. After the vehicle has been driven for about 50 miles, I return the vehicle to the mechanic, the leak is located and repaired. My Fords do not have leaks. I sold my leak free 1973 Ford truck with over 600,000 miles on it this year. Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you.
I added surface shield to my car one year ago. It said it would last two years. Just checked where I sprayed and it looks pretty much the same as your father's truck. I have no problems waiting to recoat it next year. It is a 2023 RAV4 with 25K miles and I live in a suburb of Detroit. Salt is applied every where in the winter here. Next fall I will inspect every where to see where it needs more spray and where it does not. No use spraying wet surface shield on top of wet surface shield. Thanks for all you work/research you did on these products, it helped a lot!
No I do not use a car wash nor do I ever wash the underbody. I always wash it by hand. Of course in the winter sometimes I have to wait for a rare winter day for it to get warm enough to wash it by hand.
If car companies could come out with panels to fully cover the bottom and only allow for the free movement of the wheels and breathing for engine and exhaust you guys in the north/midwest would be set. Or not. IDK You would think someone would have some up with a solution to this problem though. I've thought about the salt thing and that's pretty much the only alternative you have for the snow and ice.
🏴 I live in Scotland and I use this. The salt we use on the roads absolutely rots the cars here. But you can stop it from happening just like this video shows. The problem that remains, is in the 2nd hand car market with cars that have never been treated they are already badly rusted. A solution is to import a used car of your choice, that eliminates the rust issues. The other big plus for me is when it comes to maintenance and repairs, no rusted and seized bolts and for anyone who works on cars knows that is huge.
@@senseofthecommonmana little sarcasm I detect 😂😂 but truth is if you are buying 2nd hand depending on make and model you can import a low mileage rust free car for a lot less than you purchase a high mileage rusty U.K. car.
Used Corroseal on my 2012 JKU in New Jersey salty winters. Did a fair job. Just remediated a bunch of surface rust with corroseal after about 5 years. This time I followed up with a full woolwax treatment. I went a little nutz so I did wrap the jeep in plastic so I didn’t coat my buddies garage in a thin film. Next is my buddies gladiator then the Taco and finally a 4Runner. Great content great proof points.thanks man.
I followed you by using Blaster undercoat on my FJ. Dealership was not happy with the undercoat. My brother had his FJ from the same dealer but without undercoat. Mine is a 2007 and his rusted out. Dealer talked him into trading for a new truck and gave him hardly nothing on the trade in. I want to say thankyou. Love my FJ which saves me money: cause it is still like new ❤
The Lanolin treatment is the very best outer coating for any steel or alloy surface. If you live in the rust belt, then I recommend a coating of thin fish oil and linseed blend to creep into all crevices first as these semi dry and eventually harden to seal the metal pores. In Australia, we have a Flood brand product called Penetrol, then I coat it with lanolin as the top coat. No salted roads here, but we do a lot of beach 4WD trips and this is possibly more extreme than your winter roads as we have salt water and sand as the abrasive element. The lanolin gets blasted off but a thin layer remains and cannot be easily removed. Just RE coat every 12 months and you will not see rust! By the way the lanolin based sealant actually acts as a lube on bushes, helps keep the rubber boots flexible and seals underbody electrical terminals from water ingress too! Great product.
Lifetime west coaster in the USA with some family in the rust belt. I can confirm some cars I see down at the beach look worse than anything I see when visiting my sister!
@ the penetrol product, which is fish oil based is available from Bunnings and the lanolin ‘steel guard’ by Lanotec is available at repco Hope this helps!
i get the 17 ounce Pam Canola spray at restaurant depot for under 6 bucks and my 2014 Duramax with 0ver 750,000 miles traveling back and forth from Indiana to New England looks very similar to the 2017 Colorado. Remember, Canola oil aka Rape seed oil was always used for industrial purposes like lubrication and metal conditioning, it's only in recent times that the producers convinced the public that it is a healthy choice cooking and salad oil...lol
Great video, I have been using roofing tar for 40 years. Not fun applying but it works. My son told me about fluid film and it great. I have a 2006 GMC Sierra with over 500k on it
After years of trying to keep up with undercarriage rust using a wire wheel and paint, I have switched to Fluid Film and Surface Shield. Before spraying, I used a needle scaler to knock the loose rust off. This year i did the internal areas with Surface Shield (gallon) using the Fluid Film spray kit. For small internal areas like doors, I use aerosol cans and the 360 spray tube. For external areas, I use Fluid Film sprayed with a Wagner paint crew airless paint sprayer. I'm still perfecting my technique and look forward to the next video for tips and tricks! Thanks for your dedication in sharing your journey with us! 🎉
I’m really thankful I live in the southern US and don’t have to worry about all that underbody rust business. Had no idea that was even a thing until I became more of a car enthusiast this year.
Same, only recently learned about how bad this issue is because of youtube videos. I live in PNW where sh1t is always rainy and wet (youd think we d have rust issues too right?) yet we simply dont have problems with rust like how the midwest and east coasters do. This problem really starts and ends with salt on roadways. Im glad they found a working solution, and im glad I dont have to deal with it lol.
I have had my 2004 F-150 since Feb '09 since I was 17 years old. Elderly man ordered it and drove it unprotected (no real rust at all anywhere) from July 04 until my purchase. Only had 36k miles. From 2009-2015 I daily drove my truck in MA year round. Started using fluid film around 2012ish. To this day, now living in NC, no new corrosion underneath. It is an amazing product. The old girl turned 20 years old in July about to hit 140,000mi, and here I am nearly 17 years later still enjoying my truck now living down south. Always cleaning it, anal about detailing/paint correction, and undercoating pays dividends.
Repair Geek, your videos are the sole reason I tell everyone and anyone that will listen about Surface Shield 🛡️ and Fluid Film 😁. We thank you. I continue to share your videos with those looking for proof.
Which is better, surface ships or fluid film? I already bought fluid film but I watched a video saying mix fluid film with PB blaster, fluid film and WD40, which you spray on. Is this any better than straight Fluid film?
@flowergarden1426 Just use the lanolin product as is. Surface Shield creeps better than other brands . So for me, I use Surface Shield 🛡️ , then I do a second spray of Fluid Film over it.
I use Surface Shield every year and the only rubber that was affected was the rubber shield in the front wheel well and the engine department on my 22 Tacoma. Swelled up and it's sagging but it's still doing its job. Great product and thanks for all the time and effort you gave to help us saving our vehicles!!!
I just want to thank you for this entire series and let you know how much you’ve helped me. I ’m up in the rust belt of Maine with a 2011 F150 that was in surprisingly good shape rust wise when I bought it and a 2021 Honda Pilot. Both are coated with combination of graphite tinted Surface Shield, Black NHOU and FF rattle cans for touch up. The Black NHOU is easy to get up here, but original base coat on the vehicles was Surface Shield. I’m very happy that Blaster has put out a black product. I’m hoping to see it in aerosol too as it appears Home Depot will not longer carry Fluid Film - seems to be on clearance in all locations. Despite your relationship with blaster, you’ve kept everything 100% real, even putting a video out about it. That’s so rare these days and shouldn’t be overlooked. Thanks again brother, you’ve been a huge help, I have and will continue to recommend your channel to anyone interested in anything undercoating. If I could I’d give 1000 thumbs up to this entire series.
Thanks for the kind words. I appreciate the loyalty and I'm glad you've had success as well. My motivations when I first started this content were very selfish, save my own stuff from rotting. I had less than 100 subscribers the first time I spray my dad's truck with FF for the first time. So I never in my wildest dreams expected any kind of a following from this. YT has literally changed my life and I have people like you to thank for that. Thank you doesn't describe my gratitude enough. Not everyone in this industry is happy with my choice of employer. I'll probably touch on it in the next upload. Keep an eye out at HD, there was a reason FF got the boot there. You will find exactly what you're looking for.
@@RepairGeek. Good stuff - I’ll keep an eye out at HD. Now - I will say the complaints about SS tops leaking are legit. Seems to be hit or miss on the cans - some are fine yet others leak all over the place. Lastly - every inner cavity wand for the cans I’ve tried leaks terribly, I’m still on the hunt for a reliable one. Although I use the FF gun with a compressor for the majority of the coating I do, there are some areas I need something smaller. If you remember the doors of your F150 - there are small slits at the bottom that only a spray can inner cavity wand will fit.
Thanks for all your detailed information. I acquired my 2015 toyota tacoma from my best friends sister. I actually remember it coming home from the dealer and fast forward almost 10 years later and the rust on the protective shields was (transmission and front rotor splash shields rust was very advanced and I have purchased them to replace. The vehicle had minimal rust on frame and sheet metal just surface rust . I treated the vehicle at home in my driveway to the best my ability and used many of your recommendations. FYI the vehicle is a Mid-state NY vehicle with 129K miles that was inspected prior by Toyota for the frame inspections by Toyota. I am looking forward to keeping this truck at least another 10 plus years .
Three cheers for empirical evidence!! I have been using that treatment since 2015. I thought the "permanent paint on" coating (that requires a full clean, then acid etch, then primer, then final coating) but that did NOT LAST!! I followed directions, but no such success. Great in theory, not in practice. However, Lanolin, oh YES! Shame on my new car dealer who tried to stop me from using it, as he saw my Lanolin coating back in 2015 and claimed he NEVER saw anybody ever coating and I should stop doing it. He does not like that his worker had to touch anything under there. Tough. My dad's Nissan rusted out TOTALLY and that without Lanolin, and my Nissan has nearly ZERO rust. Thank you for showing us your results!
Thanks for these years of observation, I use lanolin mixed with a bit of beeswax at a concentration of less than 5% (it makes it harder than lanolin itself and is less sticky) and kerosene/naphtha as a carrier and it works better than any other product there. If you are afraid of the bushing getting damaged, use a different spray medium, not kerosene, but something neutral towards rubber, or simply lubricate the bushings with silicone grease before applying undercoat. It is not the lanolin that causes the rubber to swell, but the carriers that serve to dilute the lanolin. Most products use naphtha for this purpose. You can even spray just hot lanolin and the rubber bushings will be protected against swelling.
I’ve used fluid film on my Honda CRV every fall since I bought new in 2003 and it’s amazing how rust free it is and easy to work on. No rust or corrosion with brake lines, brackets, linkages, suspension parts, fuel tank, radiator and no electrical problems. I still have the original alloy wheels and I don’t have air leaks because I put a bead of fluid film around the edge of the alloy wheel and the tire inside and out. No bushings have been replaced or rubber boots and I have 208,000 miles on the car and live in a heavily salted area in Connecticut. I do have an area that has rusted underneath a plastic body panel, now I know to spray under the panels too if possible!
You have done a great service to the automotive community! I have been using lanolin since I’ve watched your videos 4 years ago, wish i knew about it decades ago.
Found your videos shortly after buying a new 2022 Ram. Coated it with Surface Shield before the first winter with cans. Touched it up winter year two. Going into winter number three it still looks new. Thanks from Minnesota!
I've never commented before but when I saw first time Your video (something about 3 years ago) searching for a good way of rustproofing my old vehicles that I care about I immediately thought - that is the proper way. Earlier I was fighting with rust sanding and sand blasting and then epoxy. Whole process was taking a lot of time, effort and money. Effect was quite good but even after such treatments rust was living in metal sheets bends (literally it is impossible to clean and apply epoxy in such places). After I saw Your video I've bought lanolin based products as well as mike sanders fatt (I was trying both of them because in Poland they are available in similar price). Both of these products are excellent for rust proofing but applying fluid film seems to be easier because mike sanders fett needs to be preheated first (petroleum based product). After all whole process is fast and easy and does not need any surface preparations. Existing rust is being completely stopped. That oily surface is crawling to all metal sheet bends. It is so freaking easy and fast way that without Your evidences (as YT videos) I would never believe it can be so easy. So right now after few Years of saving my vehicles I would like just to say THANK YOU!! You save me a lot of money, effort and my time. Best wishes from Poland. I have also few hints for OTHERS from my current experience - lanolin based products such as fluid film are very expensive here in Poland so for cost savings (and as it turned out for coating durability improvement) I'm buying the most dense of fluid film products and dillute it with raw linseed oil to get optimal viscosity. That way I've got more coating for less (linseed oil is very cheap) and linseed oil is drying after some time causing that surface is less sticky, absorbs less dirt and does not being washed away so easy with water. But still that surface never dry out if You would not add too much of linseed oil (and from my observations it stops rust as good as lanolin product alone). Once again THANK YOU.
Found your undercoating series shortly after buying my first "nice" vehicle. I've always had beaters and never worried about it much but I got a 2019 trd off road 4runner with 50k miles and no rust. I did my first under coting (surface shield because it was readily available and cheaper in my area) This year and plan to continue yearly. I want this vehicle to last and last and last and I see this as a cheap insurance policy. I'll take the dirty oily hands a few times a year during maintenance for the peace of mind. I'm a believer! You earned a subscriber and I'm looking forward to your future content whatever direction you take👍
I live in the Great White North. You got it Canada. I power wash the underside of my vehicles several times a year. At self-service car wash stations. I get right into the wheel wells between the bumpers and body panels up in the body cavity where the brake lights are between the frame and the rocker panels wherever I can reach with just water I have very little rust by just keeping the dirt sand etc from building up. I have a 2005 Blazer and a 2008 Ford Superduty both are kept well-rinsed off stopping the build-up of road sand salt and other grit I can keep rust manageable maintenance is important
It's true. The fluid film and woolwax is it people. I've tried the hard coating. Cracked and rusted very fast. I've used cosmoline. On good bare metal with no rust, it's good. Spray it over rust and it cracks and disappears. Just buy the fluid film. It's cheaper than woolwax and you still have to apply it every year. I'm still looking for a good way to get the vehicles up high enough with out a lift.
I just did my new Mazda with Woolwax. They sprayed every conceivable body panel void and anything in sight except exhaust. Will need to touch up every 3 years. Good to know I'm protecting my investment!
I have a 22 Nissan Frontier. I have used a combination of Fluid Film and Blaster Surface Shield. I reside in Upstate New York where they pound the rock salt, calcium chloride and brine on the roads to the point that it turns the blacktop white! My Nissan looks like new underneath and inside body panels. The lanolin based undercoating creeps into areas that salt water can get into to rust. In addition, the undercoating seems to repel rodents from chewing on wires. It also seems to avert the salt from oxidizing the wire connections that turn green with corrosion to simply break in half. The downside is that the lanolin creeps so well that it migrates from the inside of my white tailgate to outside. That's no big deal. I just have to clean it more often.
The 2018 is in pretty good shape, for me. Living north of the border where 5 months/year roads are covered with snow, ice, salt, calcium, anti skid rocks and everything you can imagine to rust/destroy metal, with many temperature variation from above zero to make everything softer and almost melt to make sure there is infiltration of humidity everywhere then sub zero to frost everything. This 2018 just need to be very well pressure wash (not blast wash) then anti rust sprayed carefully in details and it will last. One thing to care off is to be carefull with spraying between the grill and radiator, to reduce or better to avoid antirust going into the radiator/ac and clog the fins. Very informative video, thank you, be well.
I have been watching your vids for a few years now, they have been a key factor in using Fluid Film on my 22 Canyon. Spayed with less than 100 mi and still looks showroom underneath. One thing that I do is add peppermint oil to the pail when stirring before spraying. We are very rural in northern Ontario Canada, lots of salt, but also lots of rodents. I have had serious trouble over the years from rodents in other vehicles, so far they have avoided this truck, plus it makes the truck smell nice and minty instead of like a flock of old sheep. My biggest problem now is that all my friends want me to spray their vehicles.
Also if you live or move to a state that has safety inspections like Pennsylvania. You might find yourself arguing with the inspection mechanic that is 110% sure everything is leaking, . I have a 2001 GMC Yukon that spent its first 20 years in the south. Before I moved to PA "I previously lived there" I coated it with Fluid Film before the move to save it from Pennsylvania Winters. When I had to have it inspected they handed me a repair estimate for $5000.00 for leaking mains, transfer case seals, basically anywhere near a seal ! Took me a while to prove it was "Not Leaking" to pass the inspection. Besides that leaks are not a reason to fail inspection in Pennsylvania they are shady trying to make $$$$ . Stand your ground with these people!!!!
You and your videos are why i started spraying my 2005 Ford excursion four years ago with woolwax, live in South Dakota and still no rust underneath anywhere, the roof is a different story, to much driving down dirt roads and all the crap they spray in the air. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
For the truck with rust, my approach is to use Corrosion Free as it does a great job with stopping the rust in its tracks. I then let it dry in for a week or so (still use the truck) then cover with a layer of Surface Shield. I find this a great combination as once rust starts the Lanolin products otherwise don’t stop the rust progress
Thank you for everything! I've been treating my 4runner inspired by your videos. The car is in great condition. I have sent your videos to many people who also took action.
Good info Repair geek. I live in pretty rust free part of Australia, but still use Lanotech brand Lanolin as a one time protectant on my cars. I mostly wipe the excess off as I only want it in the cracks and threads.
I under coated my 2002 Dodge Ram when I bought it New and am still driving it 22 yrs later. I also installed rear wheel well inserts, Stainless running boards full, over rail sprayed bed liner, and a cap.
Went with Crown this year on my new 2024 Tundra….I think it creeps the most. It was definitely dripping after application. Will probably switch to something thicker next year but wanted it to saturate areas that can’t been seen or reached. It was also reasonably priced and convenient. Spending an hour or 2 plus cost of products vs. $160 seemed worth it to me. Great videos!
My results using Krown is standarized testing wasn't great. I've had people tell me that it works well if it's kept up with but check out these videos and you'll understand what I'm saying:ua-cam.com/play/PLiBj_svGZOHO1UeoA3TeAQMzW5tsz6ujB.html&si=3nO1a8PJj4ZuvEEO
Thank you for showing the many pros and few cons of using the lanolin products. I look forward to the step by step videos. My biggest fear is not applying the coating correctly or applying to an area where I shouldn't. I love the SMA channel, and Eric O has a few videos of how to apply these products, but the videos are sped up to make the video shorter and less mundane. I get that. When you make your step by step video(s), please, please, please show them in real time. If this requires two or more videos, I am perfectly fine with that, and I will watch all of them.
There's no areas to avoid except for rotors and brake pads. Spray it everywhere. Then go for a drive and ride the brakes for a little to make sure anything on the rotors burns off. Simple
Amazing! I have a '79 Jeep CJ-7 and I have replaced the frame on it twice. I do work on the underside of the Jeep a lot, but I will be considering a wet lanolin undercoating after seeing your video. Very convincing and very well done video. Thank you!
Is Surface Shield still your favorite or go to? I remember from past videos it always seemed to do the best but just wondering what you think works best in the real world.
I'm now employed by blaster as of 2022 so take that into account. SS has the best blend of low viscosity making it easier to spray and high wash off resistance but, it's the most expensive. That doesn't make FF or WW bad products at all. The ease of use vs performance is very hard to beat with SS.
In 2011 I bought a 1983 F250 that had been completely Rhino lined underneath and in the bed. When I took it to my mechanic he was astounded at how well it had stood up. I still have the same truck in 2024 and the only rust issue is with one rocker that's rusted from the outside and a fender because I let crud build up in the groove. The Rhino lining is a dry coating so it has cracked in places. I agree with the author that wet underseal is the way to go. I did this with my wifes 2012 Subaru outback and its still in great shape underneath in 2024
You made a believer out of me in previous videos and this is the icing on the cake that has made me 100% confident that this undercoating system is the best. Thank you for your efforts!
I've used CRC rust inhibitor (cosmoline wax spray) and it's worked very well. It adheres very strongly and acts as a rust shield. It dries to a firm tack and doesn't flake off.
After spray washing my undercarriage in the early spring and letting it dry driving around I spray it down liberally but not overly with with old trans fluid. Then spray wash it again before the big rain then snow and ice and spray another coat of old trans oil. Usually, it's a bought a liter and a 1/2 to quickly cover everything and let it sit on a drop cloth overnight to catch the small amount of overspray that might drip down it doesn't seem to affect anything that might get on the outer painted surfaces. Just wipe it with a clean shop cloth. Been doing this since I was a teenager I'm 72. My cars don't rust and it doesn't affect properly prepared paint touch-ups.
P.S. I have done all inside door panels pulled and removed all drain plugs and rocker plugs let them air dry. I also do a fare amount or of off-road driving so I know a bit of wear dirt can build up. Remove that it holds moisture and things like salt
I live in Michigan. Just bought a 1986 Toyota 4runner from Texas. It looks great! It’s getting Woolwax in the next few days. Thank you for your research. It’s helped me feel confident in my purchase and I’m excited that this truck will last many more years
I live in MA and recently purchased a 2010 Toyota Sienna from CA (last year of the 2nd generation body style which I really like) and had it shipped to MA. 91K miles, original owner, all service records. Never seen a winter, snow, salt etc. Immaculate underneath and everywhere. Literally felt guilty bringing it to New England. Had the entire thing undercoated with NHOU including all interior panels, rockers etc. The young guy that runs this shop was so jazzed about this 14 year old minivan in such fantastic condition. He did an amazing job. I’ll do a yearly inspection with him and do smaller touch up myself with FF and/or SS. I feel soooo much better having had this done.
This is the channel that sold me on the idea of coating my 2007 Jeep Grande Cherokee. I spent half the summer sandblasting and painting the bare metal with SKB rust coating. Medwax is going on this coming week.
I've also used Fluid Film for the last 3 years on my truck. No rust and no obvious detriment. Good to know it was a good decision. I didn't have any research saying to use Fluid Film other than knowing it prevented rust. I touch up in fall before winter salt season and again in the spring.
I was introduced to Fluid Film a few years back. Did my 74 super beetle (200K) and my last 2 Subarus with it. Wonderful stuff! what I like about it is that it "creeps", so that it will eventually get to and cover places you just could not get to. Some people say it stinks, but the smell dissipates after a few weeks. Personally I like the smell and wish it would stay longer! I knew a guy who sprayed his Honda station wagon with 80/90 gear oil! It didn't rust, but years later it still stunk sooo bad, I don't know how he ever drove it!
been using fluid film for 3 years now on my winter driven vehicles,, very impressed. i am north of Syracuse NY,, we get real winters here and they use salt and liquid brine on roads. i see untreated 7-8 year old trucks around here with the box sides rotted completely through. this stuff flatout works.
The wet coatings do work, no doubt about it. From Ontario here, and I remember seeing cars from the 60s in some small towns where a local shop was doing oil based sprays 60 years ago. Some cars in these areas are simply amazing. In the 80s the Ontario government put some research into designing an effective undercoating, and the end result is a successful franchise that is still in business today. Your biggest detractors are likely those who are in the automotive sector, this is NOT the kind of thing they want people to see. Some people hate the idea of a vehicle that is 'slimy and filthy' underneath, and they don't seem to care that they are unable to get 10 years out of their vehicle before it rusts out. There are also a lot of people that want to have a new vehicle in their driveway, and the cost to them just doesn't seem to matter. You're doing a good thing - keep going! Good work on the presentation and the video. Not everyone will like what you have to say - ignore them.
When I got my new Camry Hybrid back in 2008, we had it undercoated and touched up every fall. Over 330,000 KMs later, no body rust, all metal panels in great shape. This is in a part of Canada where as soon as it snows half an inch, they dump an entire seasons worth of salt on the roads. I see the same age Camrys driving around all the time, and it's clear they weren't coated as they are rusting in various spots all over. The stuff works.
Oh it works all right, I still daily drive a 2000 S10 ZR2 in Northern Michigan. Quick tip, apply it in the early summer especially on new vehicles so the summer heat can melt and settle it down into all the seams and crevices. Driving on a dusty road after reapplying will cake it into a paste and keep it from washing off.
I've been using Fuild film and surface shield since 2020. All my cars and trucks have the same amount of rust as they had the first time I treated them. I've also done my friend's car and truck since they were new. They still look new. I'm in upstate NY, where cars turn to dust.
Been using this for years, I buy the 5 gallon buckets and touch up my truck every year. Almost 8 years on the salt wash and the Under frame looks brand new.
I've been using Fluid film for about 10 years now here in New England. Not a spot of rust, on my rigs, not even my '97. I discovered that Fluid Film is available in black now, used that this year and looks awesome! Great video, new sub here, keep up the great work!
I'm from Northern MN. We always undercoated our vehicles to keep them from rusting out. Folks who say it doesn't help are full of it. Just have to make sure you aren't plugging drain holes, etc. and that the vehicle is clean and dry.
Up in the Canadian rust belt every new car I buy goes from the dealer to Krown rust control. I keep my cars 15 to 20 years and have had ZERO rust problems. The wife and I shake our heads seeing older vehicles with rust holes, If they just spent a few hundred for oil spray their bodies and frames would still be perfect. Its a must up here.
You are the man, for making this video. I have been telling people for years that oily style undercoatings are the best way to go. I've always recommended rinsing thoroughly and then using a product like Fluid Film or Wool Wax, but it sounds like Lanolin is great stuff too. Thanks for your hard work putting the video together!
Great video! I have an '86 Bronco that was seating on the side of the road for many years; The area where the oil leaked was covered with dirt but under the coating, the original factory paint was still intact and there were zero rust spots...That was also the case where the diff cover leaked. The " uncoated" areas had surface rust over... I covered with Lanoline SS both my '92 Wrangler and the '99 Dakota... Thanks for posting!
Lanolin I’ve been using on my commercial fishing boat for 40 years .. I’ve tried everything possible for anti corrosion .. and every steal fixture on board my vessel coated in lanolin has stood the test of time … even using it between different metals eg stainless steal and aluminium with aluminium being less noble there is no corrosion to the alloy .. started using it because the floors in shearing sheds in Australia made of timber looked fantastic after after decades of hard work , the lanolin was coming of the sheep’s wool preserving the timber .. it works great with steel , can’t recommend this enough . Great video 👍🇦🇺ps great for electrical protection .
I wonder if you have heard about the "Sacrificial Anode" for marine application? I heard Volvo tried it but I have not researched this. Oil rigs use it. In fact it was one of the very first use of earthbound solar panels to charge the batteries that once the application was adopted needed constant replacement until solar panels came along. Ironic but true.
@ sacrificial anodes I use every year as part of maintenance ,are used under the water line eg prop shaft , rudder and shoe of the boat and in cases where the boat is steal or aluminium construction or the cooling system to marine engines as it’s a less noble metal , above the water line I’m talking about fixtures on deck to use Lanolin .
Been using it on cars driving on salty Norwegian roads for 7+ years and the coating really works. Its really effective on already rusty cars because it stays in the pores of the rust.
I never would have started fluid filming vehicles unless I stumbled upon your channel years ago. I’ve recently lost my civic, that has tons of life left in it, to body rot. Luckily I started spraying my wife’s car before it got out of hand.
Excellent, and comprehensibly covered, Thank You. Another benefit of this treatment that might seem obvious, is you will notice otrher things that need sorting underneath your car, which would otherwise, go unnoticed. Some additional info you might find QI - in the UK our cars rust more in the warmer (?) seasons than winter. Due to the fluctuating temperatures and moistures throughtout the 24hrs. If you know anyone who dos restoration of older/classics they will tell you that when stripping back to good (non rusted) metal it will always be several times bigger/worse than it initially appears. Happy motoring.
I have referred many people here in Vermont to your channel in an effort to convince them. I'm currently still using Fluid film on my 2015 and have no rust. It works really well. Thank you for your testing videos!
I have used Fluid Film for the last 6 years, and it does absolutely work. Of course it does need to be reapplied every year, but it is no big deal imo. The amount of rust that happens in the salt belt is still wild.
I have sprayed castor oil on some of my under carriage in Brazil when I lived there. Mainly to avoid the rust when going to the beach. Those under coatings make miracles to preserve the cars. I don't understand why people don'd do this here in the US. Good job. Keep sharing your progress.
I drive a 2014 F-150 that looks beautiful underneath, been getting it coated since I bought it in 2020. Whomever had it before me must've had it sprayed as it was almost perfectly rust free when I bought it. I'm just shy of 178,000 miles. Every time I change the oil I touch up any spots that look remotely questionable with a can of fluid film. Tragically... My beloved 1992 F-250 was already rotted through on fenders and rockers when I bought it in 2005. By the time I traded it (for scrap value), I was able to put my foot through the floor. That truck was the impetus for me to research getting my vehicle sprayed. Best investment you can possibly make if you drive in the rust belt. Oh BTW I'm in southern Wisconsin.
Nov. 10 /24 97 and 98 f150 Thank you for your videos. This saved my trucks from scrap heap . 97 had to have box removed and corroseal then surface shield . Thank you
Very familiar with Fluid Film, used the product to coat my tools when I was doing in the field service calls to protect my tools from corrosion. Never thought of using the product for rust protection on a vehicle. Impressed by the results of your experiment!! Well done you! NMJ
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I see Ford is crap this never would happen to a bmw
People complaining about "damage" to rubber components? Gtfo with that shit. Here in Scandinavia everyone uses underbody coatings. It's not magic, it's very simple. Unfortunately it's pretty expensive to have done, so people who don't plan on having the car for long, don't do it, and passes the problem on to the next guy.
Is surface shield still the product you like best?
I would advise to not use those rubber lift pads with coatings. I had a truck fall off the lift because the pads slid off the frame. Use metal pads or rubber with ears so it can't slide off. It was a real mess. It ended up on it's side between the post. I've seen the pads slide off the frame on 3 different trucks. So it is a real concern.
@coldfront7914 from other testing done, Surface Shield sticks the best, specifically to areas subjected to water spray from the road. Another channel tested several coatings and found this.
2000 Toyota 4Runner. Removed the door panels, removed drain plugs on rockers, drain plugs under the doors, sprayed inside and out with Fluid Film. Every year since 2004. Still showroom condition. No rust anywhere to be found. Paint still shines. Very proud of the looks of this vehicle. And this in the Road Salt Capital of The U.S. Northern Wisconsin
You hit the body (i.e. the clear coat), too, with Fluid Film?
@@-_----- I'm sure the answer is no. Your car would look horrific if you doused the finish in this stuff. Plus, the panel rot typically begins from the inside. Finished areas under the car/in wheel wells/hidden, sure why not. I use CRCs corrosion inhibitor cosmoline spray, and hit unibody pinch welds and sometimes the folded fender piece that attaches the splash shields.
@@-_----- Nope. Just frame, suspension, under side of body, and where ever I could spray inside body. Coated rear bumper and trailer hitch extra heavy. Ceramic coat outside.
1997 4runner, i bought it for 4 grand with 460,000km, its never had that. if i hit a speed bump too hard itll snap in half. i live in fear of police as an inspection will surely mean its end
@@-_----- You believe Fluid Film damages paint....
I've seen people complain about all the dirt that sticks to the protectant stuff. The dirty underside is irrelevant. Slap rust protection everywhere under there, nobody sees the bottom anyway. The dirt wont eat your vehicle, but the rust will.
I always ask people, would you rather work on something that's a little dirty but wipes away clean and everything unbolts fine, or a rusted, rotted nightmare where you have to torch every nut and bolt?
@@Bloodbain88everyone knows what a nightmare it can be to deal with rusted out brakes this extends the life and makes maintenence so much easier!
Unless you live in a area with alkali dust, that stuff is super corrosive.
Dirt is actually the real problem because dirt acts like a sponge to hold moisture in against vehicle bodies. However, salt is also another big problem
Dirt holds moisture and the minerals in it, if alkaline, will cause rust.
Im still using up my fluid film. Definitely has made a difference. Crazy how many people blow me off when I tell them they should do this to their vehicle
Most people today are not very smart...sad to say.
Most people are just lazy and like to waste their money.
"Game is to be sold, not to be told". Do not educate lames & squares.
And your ebrake will still work...
Some people are just lazy!
Funny - my 2023 Forester is the first car I’ve ever coated (with Krown). When I took it to my Subaru dealer for my free oil change, the service folks came out to me in a panic. I was told there’s oil all under the car (with only 3,000 miles). I guess they thought the car blew every gasket. I’m glad they noticed and communicated. I’ll remind them next time so the service tech doesn’t have a heart attack again.
Same thing on my 4 runner lol not enough people know about this!
To be fair, Subarus do like to blow head gaskets.
Well to be fair, it's a Subaru, so naturally they think the head gasket is blown, if not the entire engine. 😘
I got that too, guy was freaking out.
A mechanic worth their salt (haha) in a northern environment should have an idea what this is. My shade tree alinement guy in Detroit knew immediately what it was. Brought my van to the dealer for recall work and they wanted to charge me hundreds to find my oil leak.
Even the bolts are not rusted on the sprayed truck. Amazing!
Not surprising since it looks like that vehicle has been leaking oil like a sieve from everywhere, what he's saying is filthy dirty looks like it's actually oil! And the one that's showing some surface rice is not leaking any oil to coat the parts underneath its bone dry! Am I the only one who noticed this?
Very interesting stuff. Living in mn I have seen a lot of trucks rot away. Its something that really needs to be pushed and actively documented. Grat stuff man, keep it up.
Fluid Film my Rams in Maine. Traded my last Ram with 300,000 miles and 12 Maine winters, no rust, got $11,500 trade in on my new Ram in 2017 from the dealer. Now my 2017 Ram has 180,000 miles, no rust. I see lots of newer vehicles that are rusting away that were untreated.
Did the Ram that made it to 300k have the original engine and transmission?
Yup, 5.7 hemi with a hot cam , nitrous and 3,000 rpm converter. Ran it at NEDW , Englishtown and Winterport dragway. Only had to replace a fuel pump at 275k. 2005 QC Thunder Road 4x4 with 3:92's.
@formerice thats unicorn for a dodge
@@FreeWVson Actually I drove a 2005 Dodge RT Magnum 400,000 miles, so not a unicorn.
Still only surface rust😂 compared to many other vehicles.
You proved your point fella. Lanolin works.
My cars do not rust because of the Lanolin I spray on them. And when I sell my cars, I show the potensial buyer your videos, and they allways end up buying my car without negotiation.
So, thank You! ☺️
Do believe your testing of these undercoatings. Been using Fluid Film for 8yrs. Had my 2015 F350 undercoated and rustproofed at the dealer when I purchased it new. After a couple years I noticed the some undercoating gone. I started spraying Fluid Film on the undercarriage, and never looked back. I touch it up each season. The truck will be 10 in May, and still no rot, underneath or on the body. I swear by Fluid Film. Truly enjoy your content. Thank you.!
I'm sure this comment will get lost in the sea of others, but I will say this. If you haven't undercoated your vehicle yet, WASH the underside of your vehicle. Whether you do it yourself at home or if you go to a carwash, just wash off all that salt and dirt during those winter months. I know it's cold outside and a pain, but it will help a lot. I didn't get my truck undercoated but I did wash it almost every week religiously taking the time with my power washer to spray all that nasty salt mix off the frame. It definitely helps!
This is what I do, an the end of the work week and after a heavy salt day. Takes 5-10mins to do both vehicles. I have my wall mounted 100' pressure washer in my garage, it's not heated but I drain it hookup everytime I use it, have the underbody pressure washer attachment I roll under the car to hit underneath. My 2012 has 0 rust. My 2009 which I don't keep in garage and don't pressure wash is beyond rotted but it's a 3500 I just can't do hd stuff with anymore.
To add, use a wash called salt away. It takes away the surface tension of the water and allows the water to way way better absorb the salt and then it drips off. This is what they use to rinse off salt water from boats. Wash with salt away first, then coat with fluid film or whatever
@@howebrad4601soap does the same thing. You can't use sulfates on boats, so there is a separate product.
That's awesome. I wish I knew this years ago. Now I started coating my cars thanks to you. You are a great American hero.
Started using Surface Sheild on my 2003 Silverado about three years ago. Silverado had more rust than the 2018 in this video. Been happy with how well the coating has stopped further deterioration. Thanks for sharing!
What are you using? I have a 95 GMC Sierra, it has some rust not as bad as this truck but I'd like to be able to put something on it to prevent further deterioration.
Surface shield I see now, I'll check it out.
Just bought an 07 Jeep Liberty 110k on it with slight upperbody rust. The underside is rustville front to rear. I've had the struts+shocks replaced and had three cans of Surface Shield coating applied to all surfaces underside. So, from the rustbelt thanks for the good review you've stated.
@@jakerose1203 ya I have a 90 dodge d150 with the paint still on the frame in Maine so I will definitely be doing the
Wish I knew about this sooner, I wouldn't have had to buy a new gas tank, control arm and weld the rocker panels on my 05 toyota matrix. Started using surface shield last year after watching your videos, now I tell everyone I know about oilcoating their cars! You're single handedly saving the world millions of dollars, dude! 😂
My dad started driving a Ford Model T, so I have been driving Fords for over 60 years. My company has been plowing snow and applying salt in Minnesota for almost 60 years. Those trucks really rusted bad having salt in the box for about six months each year. Some of the trailers used to haul small equipment would have to be scrapped after seven years, the frames were rusted out so bad. I started out spraying the trucks with used motor oil. That worked great, but it only lasted for about three days and it was gone and had to be reapplied. Now I use lanolin products. On the plows I try to touch them up every month and they look rust free. My cars an pickup I touch up every year. Finding leaks, no problem. Whey stopping for gas or snacks or before leaving with a truck or piece of equipment we look underneath for oil drips. If we find any we make note of the location on the repair request for that vehicle. For the slow drips knowing the location of the leak on the ground, the mechanic will put dye in the suspect component. After the vehicle has been driven for about 50 miles, I return the vehicle to the mechanic, the leak is located and repaired. My Fords do not have leaks. I sold my leak free 1973 Ford truck with over 600,000 miles on it this year. Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you.
@buelowexcavating Ferd clowns... Bet you voted terd too...
I added surface shield to my car one year ago. It said it would last two years. Just checked where I sprayed and it looks pretty much the same as your father's truck. I have no problems waiting to recoat it next year. It is a 2023 RAV4 with 25K miles and I live in a suburb of Detroit. Salt is applied every where in the winter here. Next fall I will inspect every where to see where it needs more spray and where it does not. No use spraying wet surface shield on top of wet surface shield. Thanks for all you work/research you did on these products, it helped a lot!
Do you wash it in the winter, or use a car wash with an underbody wash?
No I do not use a car wash nor do I ever wash the underbody. I always wash it by hand. Of course in the winter sometimes I have to wait for a rare winter day for it to get warm enough to wash it by hand.
If car companies could come out with panels to fully cover the bottom and only allow for the free movement of the wheels and breathing for engine and exhaust you guys in the north/midwest would be set.
Or not. IDK
You would think someone would have some up with a solution to this problem though. I've thought about the salt thing and that's pretty much the only alternative you have for the snow and ice.
@HAL-dm1eh there are solutions, such as galvanized steel. But everything adds costs, and the consumer doesn't want to pay the price.
@@HAL-dm1ehyes I thought of that often.
🏴 I live in Scotland and I use this. The salt we use on the roads absolutely rots the cars here.
But you can stop it from happening just like this video shows.
The problem that remains, is in the 2nd hand car market with cars that have never been treated they are already badly rusted.
A solution is to import a used car of your choice, that eliminates the rust issues.
The other big plus for me is when it comes to maintenance and repairs, no rusted and seized bolts and for anyone who works on cars knows that is huge.
Yes sadly know it all too well. Curse a bit when someone on youtube says a car is rusted and to me it looks brand new.
Great tip, I’m just off to import my next car right now, no more rust worries for me😂😂😂
@@senseofthecommonmana little sarcasm I detect 😂😂 but truth is if you are buying 2nd hand depending on make and model you can import a low mileage rust free car for a lot less than you purchase a high mileage rusty U.K. car.
Used Corroseal on my 2012 JKU in New Jersey salty winters. Did a fair job. Just remediated a bunch of surface rust with corroseal after about 5 years. This time I followed up with a full woolwax treatment.
I went a little nutz so I did wrap the jeep in plastic so I didn’t coat my buddies garage in a thin film.
Next is my buddies gladiator then the Taco and finally a 4Runner.
Great content great proof points.thanks man.
I followed you by using Blaster undercoat on my FJ. Dealership was not happy with the undercoat. My brother had his FJ from the same dealer but without undercoat. Mine is a 2007 and his rusted out. Dealer talked him into trading for a new truck and gave him hardly nothing on the trade in. I want to say thankyou. Love my FJ which saves me money: cause it is still like new ❤
I'd consider finding a new dealer if they're actually upset that you're maintaining your car properly.
@@CharlieLarkin75 Funny that
The Lanolin treatment is the very best outer coating for any steel or alloy surface. If you live in the rust belt, then I recommend a coating of thin fish oil and linseed blend to creep into all crevices first as these semi dry and eventually harden to seal the metal pores. In Australia, we have a Flood brand product called Penetrol, then I coat it with lanolin as the top coat.
No salted roads here, but we do a lot of beach 4WD trips and this is possibly more extreme than your winter roads as we have salt water and sand as the abrasive element.
The lanolin gets blasted off but a thin layer remains and cannot be easily removed. Just RE coat every 12 months and you will not see rust!
By the way the lanolin based sealant actually acts as a lube on bushes, helps keep the rubber boots flexible and seals underbody electrical terminals from water ingress too!
Great product.
Lifetime west coaster in the USA with some family in the rust belt. I can confirm some cars I see down at the beach look worse than anything I see when visiting my sister!
Our roads do have not only salt but sand as well so we do deal with sand as an abrasive.
where about are you buying it all from in aus? curious if you have done the inners also I'm keen on doing a couple bikes and also car.
@ the penetrol product, which is fish oil based is available from Bunnings and the lanolin ‘steel guard’ by Lanotec is available at repco
Hope this helps!
@@robertjohnston3658 absolutely thanks mate
i get the 17 ounce Pam Canola spray at restaurant depot for under 6 bucks and my 2014 Duramax with 0ver 750,000 miles traveling back and forth from Indiana to New England looks very similar to the 2017 Colorado. Remember, Canola oil aka Rape seed oil was always used for industrial purposes like lubrication and metal conditioning, it's only in recent times that the producers convinced the public that it is a healthy choice cooking and salad oil...lol
Great video, I have been using roofing tar for 40 years. Not fun applying but it works. My son told me about fluid film and it great. I have a 2006 GMC Sierra with over 500k on it
After years of trying to keep up with undercarriage rust using a wire wheel and paint, I have switched to Fluid Film and Surface Shield. Before spraying, I used a needle scaler to knock the loose rust off. This year i did the internal areas with Surface Shield (gallon) using the Fluid Film spray kit. For small internal areas like doors, I use aerosol cans and the 360 spray tube. For external areas, I use Fluid Film sprayed with a Wagner paint crew airless paint sprayer. I'm still perfecting my technique and look forward to the next video for tips and tricks! Thanks for your dedication in sharing your journey with us! 🎉
Thanks for the update! I’ve been using WoolWax on my truck for 6 years now because of your videos. Still no rust!
I’m really thankful I live in the southern US and don’t have to worry about all that underbody rust business. Had no idea that was even a thing until I became more of a car enthusiast this year.
Same, only recently learned about how bad this issue is because of youtube videos. I live in PNW where sh1t is always rainy and wet (youd think we d have rust issues too right?) yet we simply dont have problems with rust like how the midwest and east coasters do. This problem really starts and ends with salt on roadways. Im glad they found a working solution, and im glad I dont have to deal with it lol.
A great series years in the making. Thanks for your efforts.
I have had my 2004 F-150 since Feb '09 since I was 17 years old. Elderly man ordered it and drove it unprotected (no real rust at all anywhere) from July 04 until my purchase. Only had 36k miles.
From 2009-2015 I daily drove my truck in MA year round. Started using fluid film around 2012ish. To this day, now living in NC, no new corrosion underneath. It is an amazing product. The old girl turned 20 years old in July about to hit 140,000mi, and here I am nearly 17 years later still enjoying my truck now living down south.
Always cleaning it, anal about detailing/paint correction, and undercoating pays dividends.
Repair Geek, your videos are the sole reason I tell everyone and anyone that will listen about Surface Shield 🛡️ and Fluid Film 😁. We thank you.
I continue to share your videos with those looking for proof.
Which is better, surface ships or fluid film? I already bought fluid film but I watched a video saying mix fluid film with PB blaster, fluid film and WD40, which you spray on. Is this any better than straight Fluid film?
@flowergarden1426
Just use the lanolin product as is.
Surface Shield creeps better than other brands .
So for me, I use Surface Shield 🛡️ , then I do a second spray of Fluid Film over it.
Been doing the same for 20 years on my 1998 s10. Works wonderful.
I use Surface Shield every year and the only rubber that was affected was the rubber shield in the front wheel well and the engine department on my 22 Tacoma. Swelled up and it's sagging but it's still doing its job. Great product and thanks for all the time and effort you gave to help us saving our vehicles!!!
Same for my 2024 4Runner and the 2022 Tacoma I traded in. I use Fluid Film.
@@michaelhanzal Nice, both products are the best!!
I just want to thank you for this entire series and let you know how much you’ve helped me. I ’m up in the rust belt of Maine with a 2011 F150 that was in surprisingly good shape rust wise when I bought it and a 2021 Honda Pilot. Both are coated with combination of graphite tinted Surface Shield, Black NHOU and FF rattle cans for touch up. The Black NHOU is easy to get up here, but original base coat on the vehicles was Surface Shield. I’m very happy that Blaster has put out a black product. I’m hoping to see it in aerosol too as it appears Home Depot will not longer carry Fluid Film - seems to be on clearance in all locations. Despite your relationship with blaster, you’ve kept everything 100% real, even putting a video out about it. That’s so rare these days and shouldn’t be overlooked. Thanks again brother, you’ve been a huge help, I have and will continue to recommend your channel to anyone interested in anything undercoating. If I could I’d give 1000 thumbs up to this entire series.
Thanks for the kind words. I appreciate the loyalty and I'm glad you've had success as well. My motivations when I first started this content were very selfish, save my own stuff from rotting. I had less than 100 subscribers the first time I spray my dad's truck with FF for the first time. So I never in my wildest dreams expected any kind of a following from this. YT has literally changed my life and I have people like you to thank for that. Thank you doesn't describe my gratitude enough. Not everyone in this industry is happy with my choice of employer. I'll probably touch on it in the next upload.
Keep an eye out at HD, there was a reason FF got the boot there. You will find exactly what you're looking for.
@@RepairGeek. Good stuff - I’ll keep an eye out at HD. Now - I will say the complaints about SS tops leaking are legit. Seems to be hit or miss on the cans - some are fine yet others leak all over the place. Lastly - every inner cavity wand for the cans I’ve tried leaks terribly, I’m still on the hunt for a reliable one. Although I use the FF gun with a compressor for the majority of the coating I do, there are some areas I need something smaller. If you remember the doors of your F150 - there are small slits at the bottom that only a spray can inner cavity wand will fit.
Blaster is working on a patented wand solution. That's all i can say.
Copy That
I undercoated my wife’s 2023 Toyota Venza with CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor since brand new. That stuff is awesome!
What an incredible follow-up review!! This material deserves all support one can give👍🏻
You convinced me, I was unsure if it worked over time but I have just ordered a large Lanoguard kit here in the UK .
Thanks for your efforts !
Thanks for all your detailed information. I acquired my 2015 toyota tacoma from my best friends sister. I actually remember it coming home from the dealer and fast forward almost 10 years later and the rust on the protective shields was (transmission and front rotor splash shields rust was very advanced and I have purchased them to replace. The vehicle had minimal rust on frame and sheet metal just surface rust . I treated the vehicle at home in my driveway to the best my ability and used many of your recommendations. FYI the vehicle is a Mid-state NY vehicle with 129K miles that was inspected prior by Toyota for the frame inspections by Toyota. I am looking forward to keeping this truck at least another 10 plus years .
Three cheers for empirical evidence!! I have been using that treatment since 2015. I thought the "permanent paint on" coating (that requires a full clean, then acid etch, then primer, then final coating) but that did NOT LAST!! I followed directions, but no such success. Great in theory, not in practice. However, Lanolin, oh YES! Shame on my new car dealer who tried to stop me from using it, as he saw my Lanolin coating back in 2015 and claimed he NEVER saw anybody ever coating and I should stop doing it. He does not like that his worker had to touch anything under there. Tough. My dad's Nissan rusted out TOTALLY and that without Lanolin, and my Nissan has nearly ZERO rust. Thank you for showing us your results!
It's nice to know there are other people out there like us.
Thanks for these years of observation, I use lanolin mixed with a bit of beeswax at a concentration of less than 5% (it makes it harder than lanolin itself and is less sticky) and kerosene/naphtha as a carrier and it works better than any other product there. If you are afraid of the bushing getting damaged, use a different spray medium, not kerosene, but something neutral towards rubber, or simply lubricate the bushings with silicone grease before applying undercoat. It is not the lanolin that causes the rubber to swell, but the carriers that serve to dilute the lanolin. Most products use naphtha for this purpose. You can even spray just hot lanolin and the rubber bushings will be protected against swelling.
I’ve used fluid film on my Honda CRV every fall since I bought new in 2003 and it’s amazing how rust free it is and easy to work on.
No rust or corrosion with brake lines, brackets, linkages, suspension parts, fuel tank, radiator and no electrical problems.
I still have the original alloy wheels and I don’t have air leaks because I put a bead of fluid film around the edge of the alloy wheel and the tire inside and out. No bushings have been replaced or rubber boots and I have 208,000 miles on the car and live in a heavily salted area in Connecticut. I do have an area that has rusted underneath a plastic body panel, now I know to spray under the panels too if possible!
You have done a great service to the automotive community! I have been using lanolin since I’ve watched your videos 4 years ago, wish i knew about it decades ago.
Found your videos shortly after buying a new 2022 Ram. Coated it with Surface Shield before the first winter with cans. Touched it up winter year two. Going into winter number three it still looks new. Thanks from Minnesota!
I've never commented before but when I saw first time Your video (something about 3 years ago) searching for a good way of rustproofing my old vehicles that I care about I immediately thought - that is the proper way. Earlier I was fighting with rust sanding and sand blasting and then epoxy. Whole process was taking a lot of time, effort and money. Effect was quite good but even after such treatments rust was living in metal sheets bends (literally it is impossible to clean and apply epoxy in such places). After I saw Your video I've bought lanolin based products as well as mike sanders fatt (I was trying both of them because in Poland they are available in similar price). Both of these products are excellent for rust proofing but applying fluid film seems to be easier because mike sanders fett needs to be preheated first (petroleum based product). After all whole process is fast and easy and does not need any surface preparations. Existing rust is being completely stopped. That oily surface is crawling to all metal sheet bends. It is so freaking easy and fast way that without Your evidences (as YT videos) I would never believe it can be so easy. So right now after few Years of saving my vehicles I would like just to say THANK YOU!! You save me a lot of money, effort and my time. Best wishes from Poland. I have also few hints for OTHERS from my current experience - lanolin based products such as fluid film are very expensive here in Poland so for cost savings (and as it turned out for coating durability improvement) I'm buying the most dense of fluid film products and dillute it with raw linseed oil to get optimal viscosity. That way I've got more coating for less (linseed oil is very cheap) and linseed oil is drying after some time causing that surface is less sticky, absorbs less dirt and does not being washed away so easy with water. But still that surface never dry out if You would not add too much of linseed oil (and from my observations it stops rust as good as lanolin product alone). Once again THANK YOU.
Amazing comparison, great proof of how effective these products are. Thank-you and cheers from Canada!
I subbed, but would love to see more videos of vehicles being coated. The process is what I would love to see. Thank You.
Found your undercoating series shortly after buying my first "nice" vehicle. I've always had beaters and never worried about it much but I got a 2019 trd off road 4runner with 50k miles and no rust. I did my first under coting (surface shield because it was readily available and cheaper in my area) This year and plan to continue yearly. I want this vehicle to last and last and last and I see this as a cheap insurance policy. I'll take the dirty oily hands a few times a year during maintenance for the peace of mind. I'm a believer! You earned a subscriber and I'm looking forward to your future content whatever direction you take👍
I live in the Great White North. You got it Canada. I power wash the underside of my vehicles several times a year. At self-service car wash stations. I get right into the wheel wells between the bumpers and body panels up in the body cavity where the brake lights are between the frame and the rocker panels wherever I can reach with just water I have very little rust by just keeping the dirt sand etc from building up. I have a 2005 Blazer and a 2008 Ford Superduty both are kept well-rinsed off stopping the build-up of road sand salt and other grit I can keep rust manageable maintenance is important
It's true. The fluid film and woolwax is it people. I've tried the hard coating. Cracked and rusted very fast. I've used cosmoline. On good bare metal with no rust, it's good. Spray it over rust and it cracks and disappears. Just buy the fluid film. It's cheaper than woolwax and you still have to apply it every year. I'm still looking for a good way to get the vehicles up high enough with out a lift.
I just did my new Mazda with Woolwax. They sprayed every conceivable body panel void and anything in sight except exhaust. Will need to touch up every 3 years. Good to know I'm protecting my investment!
I have a 22 Nissan Frontier. I have used a combination of Fluid Film and Blaster Surface Shield. I reside in Upstate New York where they pound the rock salt, calcium chloride and brine on the roads to the point that it turns the blacktop white! My Nissan looks like new underneath and inside body panels. The lanolin based undercoating creeps into areas that salt water can get into to rust. In addition, the undercoating seems to repel rodents from chewing on wires. It also seems to avert the salt from oxidizing the wire connections that turn green with corrosion to simply break in half. The downside is that the lanolin creeps so well that it migrates from the inside of my white tailgate to outside. That's no big deal. I just have to clean it more often.
The 2018 is in pretty good shape, for me. Living north of the border where 5 months/year roads are covered with snow, ice, salt, calcium, anti skid rocks and everything you can imagine to rust/destroy metal, with many temperature variation from above zero to make everything softer and almost melt to make sure there is infiltration of humidity everywhere then sub zero to frost everything. This 2018 just need to be very well pressure wash (not blast wash) then anti rust sprayed carefully in details and it will last. One thing to care off is to be carefull with spraying between the grill and radiator, to reduce or better to avoid antirust going into the radiator/ac and clog the fins. Very informative video, thank you, be well.
Thank you for your continued videos on the rust problem especially in the salt belt areas. Been using lanolin products for years with success.
I have been watching your vids for a few years now, they have been a key factor in using Fluid Film on my 22 Canyon. Spayed with less than 100 mi and still looks showroom underneath. One thing that I do is add peppermint oil to the pail when stirring before spraying. We are very rural in northern Ontario Canada, lots of salt, but also lots of rodents. I have had serious trouble over the years from rodents in other vehicles, so far they have avoided this truck, plus it makes the truck smell nice and minty instead of like a flock of old sheep. My biggest problem now is that all my friends want me to spray their vehicles.
Also if you live or move to a state that has safety inspections like Pennsylvania. You might find yourself arguing with the inspection mechanic that is 110% sure everything is leaking, . I have a 2001 GMC Yukon that spent its first 20 years in the south. Before I moved to PA "I previously lived there" I coated it with Fluid Film before the move to save it from Pennsylvania Winters. When I had to have it inspected they handed me a repair estimate for $5000.00 for leaking mains, transfer case seals, basically anywhere near a seal ! Took me a while to prove it was "Not Leaking" to pass the inspection. Besides that leaks are not a reason to fail inspection in Pennsylvania they are shady trying to make $$$$ . Stand your ground with these people!!!!
And then did everyone stand up and clap? 😂
You and your videos are why i started spraying my 2005 Ford excursion four years ago with woolwax, live in South Dakota and still no rust underneath anywhere, the roof is a different story, to much driving down dirt roads and all the crap they spray in the air. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
For the truck with rust, my approach is to use Corrosion Free as it does a great job with stopping the rust in its tracks. I then let it dry in for a week or so (still use the truck) then cover with a layer of Surface Shield. I find this a great combination as once rust starts the Lanolin products otherwise don’t stop the rust progress
@vaughnreid Somebody doesn't know their organic chemistry...
Please educate me. My car is rusty underneath. Can I stop it and prevent further rust?
@@dad1432 Anything that creates an oxygen barrier stops corrosion.
Thank you for everything! I've been treating my 4runner inspired by your videos. The car is in great condition. I have sent your videos to many people who also took action.
Good info Repair geek. I live in pretty rust free part of Australia, but still use Lanotech brand Lanolin as a one time protectant on my cars. I mostly wipe the excess off as I only want it in the cracks and threads.
I under coated my 2002 Dodge Ram when I bought it New and am still driving it 22 yrs later. I also installed rear wheel well inserts, Stainless running boards full, over rail sprayed bed liner, and a cap.
Went with Crown this year on my new 2024 Tundra….I think it creeps the most. It was definitely dripping after application. Will probably switch to something thicker next year but wanted it to saturate areas that can’t been seen or reached. It was also reasonably priced and convenient. Spending an hour or 2 plus cost of products vs. $160 seemed worth it to me. Great videos!
My results using Krown is standarized testing wasn't great. I've had people tell me that it works well if it's kept up with but check out these videos and you'll understand what I'm saying:ua-cam.com/play/PLiBj_svGZOHO1UeoA3TeAQMzW5tsz6ujB.html&si=3nO1a8PJj4ZuvEEO
You’re right. Nothing beats experience. Thank you for your time I’m switching from Rustoleum undercoat with rust inhibitor.
Thank you for showing the many pros and few cons of using the lanolin products. I look forward to the step by step videos. My biggest fear is not applying the coating correctly or applying to an area where I shouldn't. I love the SMA channel, and Eric O has a few videos of how to apply these products, but the videos are sped up to make the video shorter and less mundane. I get that. When you make your step by step video(s), please, please, please show them in real time. If this requires two or more videos, I am perfectly fine with that, and I will watch all of them.
There's no areas to avoid except for rotors and brake pads. Spray it everywhere. Then go for a drive and ride the brakes for a little to make sure anything on the rotors burns off. Simple
Amazing! I have a '79 Jeep CJ-7 and I have replaced the frame on it twice. I do work on the underside of the Jeep a lot, but I will be considering a wet lanolin undercoating after seeing your video. Very convincing and very well done video. Thank you!
Buffalo NY here. I'm still driving my 2005 400k mile Chevy Colorado. It was coated every year since new. The frame is still pretty much rust free.
Can't agree more! My '01 Tundra is still going strong (with VERY minimal rust anywhere) with Lanolin coating every year.
Is Surface Shield still your favorite or go to? I remember from past videos it always seemed to do the best but just wondering what you think works best in the real world.
I'm now employed by blaster as of 2022 so take that into account. SS has the best blend of low viscosity making it easier to spray and high wash off resistance but, it's the most expensive. That doesn't make FF or WW bad products at all. The ease of use vs performance is very hard to beat with SS.
In 2011 I bought a 1983 F250 that had been completely Rhino lined underneath and in the bed. When I took it to my mechanic he was astounded at how well it had stood up. I still have the same truck in 2024 and the only rust issue is with one rocker that's rusted from the outside and a fender because I let crud build up in the groove. The Rhino lining is a dry coating so it has cracked in places. I agree with the author that wet underseal is the way to go. I did this with my wifes 2012 Subaru outback and its still in great shape underneath in 2024
You made a believer out of me in previous videos and this is the icing on the cake that has made me 100% confident that this undercoating system is the best. Thank you for your efforts!
Commenting for the algorithm gods
Replying for algorithm gods
@@hankjones8814 As am I. Thank you for these vids!
I've used CRC rust inhibitor (cosmoline wax spray) and it's worked very well. It adheres very strongly and acts as a rust shield. It dries to a firm tack and doesn't flake off.
In my experience the best thing to prevent rust is to move away from the rust belt. Since Ive done that, it’s worked 100%!! Absolute game changer
After spray washing my undercarriage in the early spring and letting it dry driving around I spray it down liberally but not overly with with old trans fluid. Then spray wash it again before the big rain then snow and ice and spray another coat of old trans oil. Usually, it's a bought a liter and a 1/2 to quickly cover everything and let it sit on a drop cloth overnight to catch the small amount of overspray that might drip down it doesn't seem to affect anything that might get on the outer painted surfaces. Just wipe it with a clean shop cloth. Been doing this since I was a teenager I'm 72. My cars don't rust and it doesn't affect properly prepared paint touch-ups.
P.S. I have done all inside door panels pulled and removed all drain plugs and rocker plugs let them air dry. I also do a fare amount or of off-road driving so I know a bit of wear dirt can build up. Remove that it holds moisture and things like salt
I live in Michigan. Just bought a 1986 Toyota 4runner from Texas. It looks great! It’s getting Woolwax in the next few days. Thank you for your research. It’s helped me feel confident in my purchase and I’m excited that this truck will last many more years
I live in MA and recently purchased a 2010 Toyota Sienna from CA (last year of the 2nd generation body style which I really like) and had it shipped to MA. 91K miles, original owner, all service records. Never seen a winter, snow, salt etc. Immaculate underneath and everywhere. Literally felt guilty bringing it to New England. Had the entire thing undercoated with NHOU including all interior panels, rockers etc.
The young guy that runs this shop was so jazzed about this 14 year old minivan in such fantastic condition. He did an amazing job. I’ll do a yearly inspection with him and do smaller touch up myself with FF and/or SS.
I feel soooo much better having had this done.
I’ve had a lanolin undercoating since 2020 on my 16 Tacoma. It’s still spotless.
This is the channel that sold me on the idea of coating my 2007 Jeep Grande Cherokee. I spent half the summer sandblasting and painting the bare metal with SKB rust coating. Medwax is going on this coming week.
I've also used Fluid Film for the last 3 years on my truck. No rust and no obvious detriment. Good to know it was a good decision. I didn't have any research saying to use Fluid Film other than knowing it prevented rust. I touch up in fall before winter salt season and again in the spring.
I was introduced to Fluid Film a few years back. Did my 74 super beetle (200K) and my last 2 Subarus with it. Wonderful stuff! what I like about it is that it "creeps", so that it will eventually get to and cover places you just could not get to. Some people say it stinks, but the smell dissipates after a few weeks. Personally I like the smell and wish it would stay longer! I knew a guy who sprayed his Honda station wagon with 80/90 gear oil! It didn't rust, but years later it still stunk sooo bad, I don't know how he ever drove it!
been using fluid film for 3 years now on my winter driven vehicles,, very impressed. i am north of Syracuse NY,, we get real winters here and they use salt and liquid brine on roads. i see untreated 7-8 year old trucks around here with the box sides rotted completely through. this stuff flatout works.
The wet coatings do work, no doubt about it. From Ontario here, and I remember seeing cars from the 60s in some small towns where a local shop was doing oil based sprays 60 years ago. Some cars in these areas are simply amazing. In the 80s the Ontario government put some research into designing an effective undercoating, and the end result is a successful franchise that is still in business today. Your biggest detractors are likely those who are in the automotive sector, this is NOT the kind of thing they want people to see. Some people hate the idea of a vehicle that is 'slimy and filthy' underneath, and they don't seem to care that they are unable to get 10 years out of their vehicle before it rusts out. There are also a lot of people that want to have a new vehicle in their driveway, and the cost to them just doesn't seem to matter. You're doing a good thing - keep going! Good work on the presentation and the video. Not everyone will like what you have to say - ignore them.
When I got my new Camry Hybrid back in 2008, we had it undercoated and touched up every fall.
Over 330,000 KMs later, no body rust, all metal panels in great shape.
This is in a part of Canada where as soon as it snows half an inch, they dump an entire seasons worth of salt on the roads.
I see the same age Camrys driving around all the time, and it's clear they weren't coated as they are rusting in various spots all over.
The stuff works.
Oh it works all right, I still daily drive a 2000 S10 ZR2 in Northern Michigan. Quick tip, apply it in the early summer especially on new vehicles so the summer heat can melt and settle it down into all the seams and crevices. Driving on a dusty road after reapplying will cake it into a paste and keep it from washing off.
I've been using Fuild film and surface shield since 2020. All my cars and trucks have the same amount of rust as they had the first time I treated them. I've also done my friend's car and truck since they were new. They still look new. I'm in upstate NY, where cars turn to dust.
Been using this for years, I buy the 5 gallon buckets and touch up my truck every year. Almost 8 years on the salt wash and the Under frame looks brand new.
I've been using Fluid film for about 10 years now here in New England. Not a spot of rust, on my rigs, not even my '97. I discovered that Fluid Film is available in black now, used that this year and looks awesome! Great video, new sub here, keep up the great work!
I'm from Northern MN. We always undercoated our vehicles to keep them from rusting out.
Folks who say it doesn't help are full of it.
Just have to make sure you aren't plugging drain holes, etc. and that the vehicle is clean and dry.
Great video, anyone that want's to argue that this doesn't work or that is causes issues with soft parts would argue that the sky isn't blue.
Totally amazing! I have been using lanolin coating on my 2018 civic sport in Minnesota. No rust!!
Up in the Canadian rust belt every new car I buy goes from the dealer to Krown rust control. I keep my cars 15 to 20 years and have had ZERO rust problems. The wife and I shake our heads seeing older vehicles with rust holes, If they just spent a few hundred for oil spray their bodies and frames would still be perfect. Its a must up here.
You are the man, for making this video. I have been telling people for years that oily style undercoatings are the best way to go. I've always recommended rinsing thoroughly and then using a product like Fluid Film or Wool Wax, but it sounds like Lanolin is great stuff too. Thanks for your hard work putting the video together!
Great video!
I have an '86 Bronco that was seating on the side of the road for many years; The area where the oil leaked was covered with dirt but under the coating, the original factory paint was still intact and there were zero rust spots...That was also the case where the diff cover leaked. The " uncoated" areas had surface rust over...
I covered with Lanoline SS both my '92 Wrangler and the '99 Dakota... Thanks for posting!
Lanolin I’ve been using on my commercial fishing boat for 40 years .. I’ve tried everything possible for anti corrosion .. and every steal fixture on board my vessel coated in lanolin has stood the test of time … even using it between different metals eg stainless steal and aluminium with aluminium being less noble there is no corrosion to the alloy .. started using it because the floors in shearing sheds in Australia made of timber looked fantastic after after decades of hard work , the lanolin was coming of the sheep’s wool preserving the timber .. it works great with steel , can’t recommend this enough . Great video 👍🇦🇺ps great for electrical protection .
I wonder if you have heard about the "Sacrificial Anode" for marine application? I heard Volvo tried it but I have not researched this. Oil rigs use it. In fact it was one of the very first use of earthbound solar panels to charge the batteries that once the application was adopted needed constant replacement until solar panels came along. Ironic but true.
@ sacrificial anodes I use every year as part of maintenance ,are used under the water line eg prop shaft , rudder and shoe of the boat and in cases where the boat is steal or aluminium construction or the cooling system to marine engines as it’s a less noble metal , above the water line I’m talking about fixtures on deck to use Lanolin .
Been using it on cars driving on salty Norwegian roads for 7+ years and the coating really works. Its really effective on already rusty cars because it stays in the pores of the rust.
I never would have started fluid filming vehicles unless I stumbled upon your channel years ago. I’ve recently lost my civic, that has tons of life left in it, to body rot. Luckily I started spraying my wife’s car before it got out of hand.
Excellent, and comprehensibly covered, Thank You. Another benefit of this treatment that might seem obvious, is you will notice otrher things that need sorting underneath your car, which would otherwise, go unnoticed.
Some additional info you might find QI - in the UK our cars rust more in the warmer (?) seasons than winter. Due to the fluctuating temperatures and moistures throughtout the 24hrs.
If you know anyone who dos restoration of older/classics they will tell you that when stripping back to good (non rusted) metal it will always be several times bigger/worse than it initially appears.
Happy motoring.
I have referred many people here in Vermont to your channel in an effort to convince them. I'm currently still using Fluid film on my 2015 and have no rust. It works really well. Thank you for your testing videos!
I have used Fluid Film for the last 6 years, and it does absolutely work. Of course it does need to be reapplied every year, but it is no big deal imo. The amount of rust that happens in the salt belt is still wild.
I have sprayed castor oil on some of my under carriage in Brazil when I lived there. Mainly to avoid the rust when going to the beach.
Those under coatings make miracles to preserve the cars. I don't understand why people don'd do this here in the US.
Good job. Keep sharing your progress.
Thanks for the heads-up. I just moved to PA and am planning to purchase a new vehicle. I will make it a point to get that done,
I drive a 2014 F-150 that looks beautiful underneath, been getting it coated since I bought it in 2020. Whomever had it before me must've had it sprayed as it was almost perfectly rust free when I bought it. I'm just shy of 178,000 miles. Every time I change the oil I touch up any spots that look remotely questionable with a can of fluid film.
Tragically... My beloved 1992 F-250 was already rotted through on fenders and rockers when I bought it in 2005. By the time I traded it (for scrap value), I was able to put my foot through the floor. That truck was the impetus for me to research getting my vehicle sprayed. Best investment you can possibly make if you drive in the rust belt. Oh BTW I'm in southern Wisconsin.
Nov. 10 /24
97 and 98 f150
Thank you for your videos.
This saved my trucks from scrap heap .
97 had to have box removed and corroseal then surface shield . Thank you
Very familiar with Fluid Film, used the product to coat my tools when I was doing in the field service calls to protect my tools from corrosion. Never thought of using the product for rust protection on a vehicle. Impressed by the results of your experiment!! Well done you! NMJ