Thank you SO much for this video. That screw in the rear was a pain in my butt. I tried all sorts of bending/pivot tools using a mirror to try and guide myself to that screw but I couldn’t get a hold of it. I finally decided to just drill a hole through the plastic where the cabin air filter goes to give myself a straight shot to the screw. After that it was a piece of cake. I also followed your lead and cut a notch out of the mounting plate. I was able to start the screw with my hand, got the part aligned and tightened the screw down. Thanks again for helping me save like $500!
Glad to hear the video helped you fix your 4Runner. I just recently (last week) heard about drilling a hole in the filter housing to access that screw. I will try that the next time one comes in for that repair. Thanks for sharing.
Great video, thank you for posting! Can you share how you remove the black plastic vent tube that is right in front of the actuator? Cannot figure out how to remove and feel like I'm about to break it. Thx!
If you look closely at the 2:25 to 2:45 marks where I am putting it back on you should see that there are notches in the tube mounting bas that clip over pegs on the main housing. Usually yo remove it you need to pull towards the passenger side of the vehicle while flexing it around. You can also use a hooked tool to reach in there and pull one edge up then pull that side loose. Once you have one clip undone it is just a matter of pulling and wiggling to get it free. Don't know what year model your is but some years may also have a screw present that needs to be removed.
SUCCESS!! I too notched the metal slot so that it swings into the screw head.. However, I couldn't reach that top screw. I ended up drilling a small hole through the cabin filter wall for the screw driver to reach the screw (got that idea from another video). THANKS AGAIN!
That would be hard to even take a guess on. Is the noise inside or outside of the truck? Can you make it start or start by turning something on or off?
I have an 03 and the mode actuation switch still lights up indicating it's recognized the command but the defrost mode remains on no matter which I select. Is it the actuator or the switch/button ? No noise or any intermitten fore warnings, it just stopped working a few days ago.. thanks .. liked and subbed
Most likely the mode actuator has failed. There are some self tests that can be done but I cannot seem to find it in service information this morning. I think you turn the key on then press the auto and the recirculation buttons. The display should flash 4 times and then display trouble codes. You would most likely see a code 43 displayed for the mode actuator.
The vent temperature was stuck on mostly heat in June. I figured out where the actuator was located and could visually see that it would move a little bit when commanded with the controls. It acted like it was jamming due to a broken gear inside the actuator. I have changed out hundreds if not thousands of actuators and some things you just get a feel for. I don't remember if there was a code being set for it or not. Probably not since I did not have it in my notes. This video was meant to be more about a method for accomplishing the task of replacing the actuator than diagnosis of a faulty actuator. Hope this helped and thanks for commenting, Sparky
@SparkysAnswers thank you. My stealership avoids properly checking my cold air issue even in winter 🇨🇦. I'm not freezing but still not comfortable. Your comment makes sense.
The bottom screw? I don't remember since the top screw was the most difficult for me. I suspect I would have either used the same setup that I used for the top screw or various lengths of Phillips screw drivers. Maybe even a Phillips bit in a ratcheting wrench.
I have a question have you had problems on your left side I mean everything stays cold on your passenger side but on your left side it just stays hot or warm
Number on the actuator itself at the 00:12 mark, 063800-0660. I did a Google search and found Toyota number 87106-35180 new, 87106-35140 original. Recommend checking with the dealer to double check with your VIN..
Thank you SO much for this video. That screw in the rear was a pain in my butt. I tried all sorts of bending/pivot tools using a mirror to try and guide myself to that screw but I couldn’t get a hold of it. I finally decided to just drill a hole through the plastic where the cabin air filter goes to give myself a straight shot to the screw. After that it was a piece of cake. I also followed your lead and cut a notch out of the mounting plate. I was able to start the screw with my hand, got the part aligned and tightened the screw down. Thanks again for helping me save like $500!
Glad to hear the video helped you fix your 4Runner. I just recently (last week) heard about drilling a hole in the filter housing to access that screw. I will try that the next time one comes in for that repair. Thanks for sharing.
Great video, thank you for posting! Can you share how you remove the black plastic vent tube that is right in front of the actuator? Cannot figure out how to remove and feel like I'm about to break it. Thx!
If you look closely at the 2:25 to 2:45 marks where I am putting it back on you should see that there are notches in the tube mounting bas that clip over pegs on the main housing. Usually yo remove it you need to pull towards the passenger side of the vehicle while flexing it around. You can also use a hooked tool to reach in there and pull one edge up then pull that side loose. Once you have one clip undone it is just a matter of pulling and wiggling to get it free. Don't know what year model your is but some years may also have a screw present that needs to be removed.
SUCCESS!! I too notched the metal slot so that it swings into the screw head.. However, I couldn't reach that top screw. I ended up drilling a small hole through the cabin filter wall for the screw driver to reach the screw (got that idea from another video). THANKS AGAIN!
Great. Just a few days ago I was discussing drilling a hole with another subscriber. I hope to try that soon myself.
@SparkysAnswers Thanks again. Your video is the one that gave me the confidence to try it..
Great job!
What could cause a knock then click noise happens every minute or so?
1998 Toyota T100 3.4L V6
That would be hard to even take a guess on. Is the noise inside or outside of the truck? Can you make it start or start by turning something on or off?
@@SparkysAnswers honestly I think it would be wise to upload a video on this. Thanks will follow up!
@@sethdawg Sounds good.
I have an 03 and the mode actuation switch still lights up indicating it's recognized the command but the defrost mode remains on no matter which I select. Is it the actuator or the switch/button ? No noise or any intermitten fore warnings, it just stopped working a few days ago.. thanks .. liked and subbed
Most likely the mode actuator has failed. There are some self tests that can be done but I cannot seem to find it in service information this morning. I think you turn the key on then press the auto and the recirculation buttons. The display should flash 4 times and then display trouble codes. You would most likely see a code 43 displayed for the mode actuator.
Why did you replace this part? I have an 08 that only blows cold air on the passengers side
It was stuck on full heat. I believe it was a single zone system. Sounds like yours is a dual zone.
did you ever fix this issue i have a single zone system
@@Zauceymikey There are two of us on this comment and you did not specify who you were asking? This did fix the 2004 single zone 4Runner in the video.
@@overworked30 where you able to fix your issue I have the same problem
@@SparkysAnswers sorry my guy forgot to tag
is this the same as the HVAC air inlet door actuator? or a different actuator?
Different actuator. The air inlet or fresh air door is located above the cabin air filter and the actuator would be to the right side of it.
How did you know, or what symptoms let you know was the blend door ?
The vent temperature was stuck on mostly heat in June. I figured out where the actuator was located and could visually see that it would move a little bit when commanded with the controls. It acted like it was jamming due to a broken gear inside the actuator. I have changed out hundreds if not thousands of actuators and some things you just get a feel for. I don't remember if there was a code being set for it or not. Probably not since I did not have it in my notes.
This video was meant to be more about a method for accomplishing the task of replacing the actuator than diagnosis of a faulty actuator. Hope this helped and thanks for commenting, Sparky
@SparkysAnswers thank you. My stealership avoids properly checking my cold air issue even in winter 🇨🇦. I'm not freezing but still not comfortable. Your comment makes sense.
@@pleinairbarnettoutdoors what problem are you having?
How did you get the bottom screw out, i can't even see it.
The bottom screw? I don't remember since the top screw was the most difficult for me. I suspect I would have either used the same setup that I used for the top screw or various lengths of Phillips screw drivers. Maybe even a Phillips bit in a ratcheting wrench.
@@SparkysAnswers I have a 06 sport, looking further it is a different acuator and mount. Thanks for the reply.
I have a question have you had problems on your left side I mean everything stays cold on your passenger side but on your left side it just stays hot or warm
Not on this particular vehicle. It had a single zone temperature control.
Part number ??
Number on the actuator itself at the 00:12 mark, 063800-0660. I did a Google search and found Toyota number 87106-35180 new, 87106-35140 original. Recommend checking with the dealer to double check with your VIN..
Hank hill