This series as really helped in ways other ways couldn't. I'm an extremely visual learner and just reading about it wouldn't get me far in any sort of time. I love all of your videos and they have taught me a lot.
I have been looking at 2 different scary sharp systems because in the US they are one of the least expensive ways to go. I showed my youngest son a video on a scary sharp system using sandpaper and the first thing he saw was to make sure and get sandpaper for automotive bodywork. He has been an autobody technician with several ICar certifications so I like his input on things he knows about. He said the wet or dry sandpaper for autobody work is much tougher than you will find at a big box store. He recommends 3M. Amazon in the US has 3M wetordry papers for 5-6 US dollars that have 5 sheets of 9 inches by 11 inches. Two days ago I was gifted a Delta Sharpening System that has a vertical stone on one side and a horizontal stone on the other side with a water drip reservoir. After watching you on the Triton I'm not sure if I will ever try it.
Message noted, I've started to use this system to sharpen my plane blades and chisels, and although it has yielded fairly good results,i'm already looking for an alternate system to do the job. I have the glass sheet and wet/dry sand paper and it moves all around, i have to throw away the paper after five minutes of use, and worst of all, i can't go above 1000 grit, because higher grits are simply not available in my town. I will keep using this system until i can get a better one, because sadly, good quality stones are very hard to find here also. Excellent videos, keep them coming! Cheers!
I am going to do what Ben suggested and go sharpen something. I'm attacking the old plane blade that Ben looked at in my Yandles video. Wish me luck -I've a lot of blade to take down :-)
I realize its a bit late for a comment, but at 14:30, where you point out the pieces of paper coming apart, I get MUCH more life from my paper by using oil or WD40 instead of water. Even on wet paper, the water seems to disintegrate the paper quickly. Great series, thanks!
Ben, You clearly don't get on with the paper sharpening and I'm not surprised given the way you went about it! If you use 3M lapping films on float glass many of the problems you encountered disappear. The films are more expensive than wet and dry but one strip last for weeks, if not months of sharpening. They're self adhesive, won't move and have no micro bumps in the surface. I mainly use 30 micron, 15 micron, 5 micron and then strop on leather with chromium oxide paste exactly as you demonstrated. The blades are as sharp as any produced on waterstones. 100 micron film can be used for initial flattening or primary bevels and 1 micron as a hi-tech strop. Advantages. 1) No levelling required, 2) you don't need a trough of water for the stones, 3) in the short to medium term the financial outlay is considerably smaller, certainly for hobbyists. I like water stones as well but in my very compact workspace the lapping film on float glass is preferable.
Sharpening tools for me is sort of like a mindless relaxing thing. I wouldn't want to worry about ripping paper and have to change it for a different tool everytime.
I feel just the same way about the back bevel trick. A plane iron with uneven back is very depressing, if you don't have a machine to level it with. The ruler trick gets you there. But it is inaccurate. A flat back is absolute, a back bevel is difficult to control. If you are 1 mm further from the ruler on finer grit, you don't polish the edge. To compensate this, you can get a little closer to the ruler at every finer grit. But you never quite know where you are. That is a lovely block of cast iron you got there.
thank you Ben. at this point i am leaning to the belt grinder ( robert sorby) one och but looks the best for my needs one day BUT how do you keep the edge cool ??? on the pro sharp system ?? wonder if you could use a water trough on it ? and not short it out ? heat on edges is a great no no . again thank you
I bought into this system before I saw this video - glass plate and various grits of wet an dry. I can just about get a decent edge on my narex chisels but I gave up after about 30 mins with a plane blade too much effort and progress is very slow. One of the biggest attractions for me was no need to flatten (not to mention low start up cost). I'm a hobbiest woodworker/guitar builder (only built one so far) but I need a better solution. What do you recommend I go for if I want: - no need to flatten - reasonably time efficient (30 mins for an off the shelf plane blade) - minimal cash outlay......did I mention I'm Scottish ;-) i.e. what do I need to take a plane blade from "off the shelf" to high quality cutting edge?
Really enjoy all your videos Ben. My woodwork teacher (50 years ago) told me that if you lay planes down flat, you can blunt them, and always to lay them on their sides. Is that correct?
The black junk on the blue grits is steel and needs to be wiped off regularly or it will affect the sharpening. Yoou are correct that buying a whetstone wjould be cheaper. I think micro bevels make a lot of sense if you can get it right, otherwise the blade gets weaker the more you flatten the back.
With wet and dry you can just wet the paper on the rear side and it will hold on surface tension alone. Auto supplies have a range of papers, up to finest grits, although 3M sheets are much better (and better value if bought from Workshop Heaven)
Agree on the sharpening, wholly disagree on the Gibson Epiphone analogy. Most of us do not have thousands to throw at an over-priced Gibson LP, but can afford an Epiphone. I have one, and it is fine. Sure I have put money into it, but not because I had to. Some people pay thousands for an LP and still change things. So who is getting the best deal?
...Using only pull strokes will save your paper...of course, I say that despite the fact that I always forget at some point and tear the paper...diamond sharpening plates for knives come in very fine grades now and are inexpensive, though they don't tend to be large enough for many woodworking tools...
I didn't think Paul Sellers did the ruler trick. I know I've seen Chris Schwartz use it. And I believe I saw a Tom Fidgen video where he spoke with someone about inventing it. I kind of feel the same way about it. Something about it seems "dirty." Even if it is a very small angle, it still feels naughty. Obsessive compulsion kicks in and things need to be perfectly flat!!
Ben: Would the double tape-superglue trick work here? Attach the blade to the ruler. It'll be more awkward to sharpen but it'll be consistent. I've used a varient of this for my blades as a noob hobbyist. Rather than metal or glass I found a good smooth flat tile. Probably not up to your standards but it worked for me. And I now have a nice thin scar on my finger from a meat cleaver I used this on. Yay me.
+Heather Malcolm Yea my setup uses clamps not tape. I'll admit it is because I'm lazy and too cheap to buy the tape ;) I don't do any serious wood work so it isn't top of my list. Videography however... I could end up like Ben and his planes.
I have looked at granite tiles and chopping boards before and thought they would be good for this system.. The masking tape trick would work but I would rather fix it directly to the plate somehow.. After the video I thought magnets may well have made life a bit easier...? I'm sorry about your finger.. at least you got it sharp enough to cut though :)
+Crimson Custom Guitars Yea me and cutting onions doesn't work well no matter what knife haha. Re magnets - you are making metal dust/mud so you might not want magnets near it. The better solution I think is to not use the ruler at all as it adds more time and work if you don't want that micro bevel. I half expected you to go away in the middle of the video and do the rough spot on another tool then come back to the 400 citing time and preservation of sanity. In my case I have a long belt of worn 240 which I used dry to rough it out faster. That would be in keeping with this paper system and since it's already thrashed it won't have the high spots it had when new. I figured it would count as half way between 240 and 400.
I've just watched you stropping again...is it me or is your leather the wrong way up?...looks like you have it smooth/shiny side up...shouldn't it be rough side up for removing the burr?
Oh, and a VERY cheap way to get started in this is to go to a custom granite/composite quartz counter top business, and ask to look through their cutoffs with a straight edge. They just throw them in the trash. Big pieces of flat rock for free!
I've tried this too with no success. It feels like the sandpaper compresses just a hair and dull the edge. An india stone will take you far. Also try the buffing wheel followed by a light lick on a fine fine stone. Microbevels just messes with your head
Michael Barnes By searching "rubbing compound" brings me these auto paint polish compound bottles, which I already have. Which brings me to my original question. But I could of course try it out myself. I was just wondering if someone knew already if it's any good. Only place I can think of selling those chunks of compound (I don't know what that green gunk is called :)) is stewmac, but no way I'm paying 64 dollars worth of postal fees for 25 dollar product... It kinda rules out any other US supplier too, the postal fees and tolls to EU are horrible.
+apinakapinastorba I tried searching metal polishing compound and found loads of supplies. Hears one on ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/301026922982?adgroupid=13585920426&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=kwd-119183069826&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&ff19=0&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80
Btw, I don't know if it works, but I would have tried to attach something to the middle of the blade to stop it from moving laterally in relation to the ruler. Very interesting video. Thx!
I am also not so keen on using this ruler method of Paul Sellers although different stokes different folks and all. However, surely if you were to temporarily fix something direct to the plane iron whilst sharpening instead of using the ruler the same effect could be achieved whilst being sure to keep the angle consistent.
Ak! I've been out-thought yet again!?! :) great idea, if I ever have to do this again I will do that. Masking tape trick to a dry blade then move to the stones or whatever. Excellent idea, thank you!
the problem was is your 3m adhesive is junk it doesn't allow your sandpaper to stick good enough it's better to buy good quality paper that has the adhesive on it. and gives a fast cut, that's made for cutting metal, not any hardware store paper will work. and it a good idea to have some lubercant to keep the blade moving smooth, that helps alot. you can add to the water or use honeright.
I've never seen Paul Sellers use a ruler while sharpening... And I've watched his channel obsessively for some time. I HAVE seen Rob Cosman use a ruler to create a back bevel.... and he believes your sharpening station should be at knee height, so you can rock back and forth as you're sharpening... so I don't think I'm going to start using a ruler any time soon. It's just too bad that plane blade is bellied on the back. Seems like a faster way to deal with a lousy problem.
I think I've conflated two methods I don't like in one.. Pauls rocking technique and the ruler trick.. My apologies to Paul, I may be recording a 2nd part to this video and will apologise live then..
+Crimson Custom Guitars Hi Ben, honest mistake, really. I've been thinking about this since I left the comment and I think I know what happened. (I would also like to apologize if I sounded like a troll before, it was not my intention... I obsessively watch your videos too! Lol) I think the mistake came from a video Paul did on preparing a plane. When he flattens the sole using sandpaper to ease the outside edges he places a ruler UNDERNEATH the paper to soften the hard corner. He also did a video using abrasive papers to prepare chisels, (I think just to demonstrate the method if a person didn't have wet stones or diamond plates) but was critical about the method. Rob Cosman uses shapton stones set at knee height at the end of his bench, uses the ruler "trick" to produce a back bevel, then only sharpens a microbevel on the front, all while rocking back and forth... which seems quite silly to me. Lol Anyway, hello from Canada, have a good night!
+Crimson Custom Guitars. Ben, I have been promoting the ruler technique for about 30 years now. It is not used on chisels. It was devised for Japanese waterstone sharpening and is used on the polishing stone only, say 6, 8, or 10,000 grit. A six inch, 0.5 mm thick stainless ruler is used. The method works perfectly, increases the probability of honing away the wire edge, and does away with the need for stropping. (A 10,000 grit polishing stone has grit which is probably finer than your stropping paste). It has been adopted by Chris Schwarz, Rob Cosman and many other talented craftsmen. In general there is a pool of traditionalists who don't like it, I suspect Paul Sellers would be one! David Charlesworth
I only use it to polish after grinding on the Tormek. So it's like honing on a strop. However after learning to sharpen on oil stones that muscle memory is hard to shake. You just want to relax into up and down up and down.
Carl, you got it right, though others use a ruler most of them credit Charlesworth as the originator of the technique. Though Charlesworth is a better woodworker then I'll ever be I don't like using the ruler trick because once you use it, it is very difficult to go back to flat.
highly unimpressed. in addition to opening yourself up to legal action from Mr Sellers, for making inaccurate statements about how he chooses to publicly perform his trade, a trade mind you that is worth a huge amount of money in the global community, you are coming across very unpalatable. I've seen a few of your videos, and perhaps building guitars away from social media might be more your thing. In a huge community of people who try to make a youtube career, from copying greats and trying to instruct as well as them, but in fact simply showcasing the latest tool they got their hands on, in that community, you are really vying for top spot. The dead commentary aside, if you must make videos, please be original, stop trying to make money by duplicating Paul Sellers or anyone else (gotta admit you're not the worst youtube offender by far), abandon the teaching angle (masterclass is really taking it a bit far), and make your videos to music. it will really improve your videos. i'm not trying to be mean, believe me, but there comes a point where feedback for a video made and delivered on social media precisely with the intent of generating feedback, needs to be made. Sorry bro. I kept my tongue behind my teeth until you tried to teach people, in a masterclass, that Mr Sellers uses the ruler trick. big fail.
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This series as really helped in ways other ways couldn't. I'm an extremely visual learner and just reading about it wouldn't get me far in any sort of time. I love all of your videos and they have taught me a lot.
I love that you talked about Paul Sellers. Both of you guys have made talent, and its cool seeing that you watch his stuff is cool.
Paul sellers does NOT put microbevels on any blade. He flattens and polishes the back only once and never touches it again. That's how he tought me.
I have been looking at 2 different scary sharp systems because in the US they are one of the least expensive ways to go. I showed my youngest son a video on a scary sharp system using sandpaper and the first thing he saw was to make sure and get sandpaper for automotive bodywork. He has been an autobody technician with several ICar certifications so I like his input on things he knows about. He said the wet or dry sandpaper for autobody work is much tougher than you will find at a big box store. He recommends 3M. Amazon in the US has 3M wetordry papers for 5-6 US dollars that have 5 sheets of 9 inches by 11 inches. Two days ago I was gifted a Delta Sharpening System that has a vertical stone on one side and a horizontal stone on the other side with a water drip reservoir. After watching you on the Triton I'm not sure if I will ever try it.
How about the Posh or Ginger Sharp Systems?
I'll see myself out.
Message noted, I've started to use this system to sharpen my plane blades and chisels, and although it has yielded fairly good results,i'm already looking for an alternate system to do the job. I have the glass sheet and wet/dry sand paper and it moves all around, i have to throw away the paper after five minutes of use, and worst of all, i can't go above 1000 grit, because higher grits are simply not available in my town. I will keep using this system until i can get a better one, because sadly, good quality stones are very hard to find here also. Excellent videos, keep them coming! Cheers!
I am going to do what Ben suggested and go sharpen something. I'm attacking the old plane blade that Ben looked at in my Yandles video. Wish me luck -I've a lot of blade to take down :-)
I realize its a bit late for a comment, but at 14:30, where you point out the pieces of paper coming apart, I get MUCH more life from my paper by using oil or WD40 instead of water. Even on wet paper, the water seems to disintegrate the paper quickly. Great series, thanks!
Great video I watch Paul Sellars he is a fine craftsman.
Ben, You clearly don't get on with the paper sharpening and I'm not surprised given the way you went about it! If you use 3M lapping films on float glass many of the problems you encountered disappear. The films are more expensive than wet and dry but one strip last for weeks, if not months of sharpening. They're self adhesive, won't move and have no micro bumps in the surface. I mainly use 30 micron, 15 micron, 5 micron and then strop on leather with chromium oxide paste exactly as you demonstrated. The blades are as sharp as any produced on waterstones. 100 micron film can be used for initial flattening or primary bevels and 1 micron as a hi-tech strop.
Advantages. 1) No levelling required, 2) you don't need a trough of water for the stones, 3) in the short to medium term the financial outlay is considerably smaller, certainly for hobbyists.
I like water stones as well but in my very compact workspace the lapping film on float glass is preferable.
are you mistaken between Paul Sellers and Rob Cosman?
I've never seen Paul uses this ruler trick but Rob Cosman does all the time
Sharpening tools for me is sort of like a mindless relaxing thing. I wouldn't want to worry about ripping paper and have to change it for a different tool everytime.
I feel just the same way about the back bevel trick. A plane iron with uneven back is very depressing, if you don't have a machine to level it with. The ruler trick gets you there. But it is inaccurate. A flat back is absolute, a back bevel is difficult to control. If you are 1 mm further from the ruler on finer grit, you don't polish the edge. To compensate this, you can get a little closer to the ruler at every finer grit. But you never quite know where you are. That is a lovely block of cast iron you got there.
thank you Ben. at this point i am leaning to the belt grinder ( robert sorby) one och but looks the best for my needs one day BUT how do you keep the edge cool ??? on the pro sharp system ?? wonder if you could use a water trough on it ? and not short it out ? heat on edges is a great no no . again thank you
I bought into this system before I saw this video - glass plate and various grits of wet an dry. I can just about get a decent edge on my narex chisels but I gave up after about 30 mins with a plane blade too much effort and progress is very slow. One of the biggest attractions for me was no need to flatten (not to mention low start up cost). I'm a hobbiest woodworker/guitar builder (only built one so far) but I need a better solution. What do you recommend I go for if I want:
- no need to flatten
- reasonably time efficient (30 mins for an off the shelf plane blade)
- minimal cash outlay......did I mention I'm Scottish ;-)
i.e. what do I need to take a plane blade from "off the shelf" to high quality cutting edge?
I love your channel, thank you Ben.
been waiting for this one!
Really enjoy all your videos Ben. My woodwork teacher (50 years ago) told me that if you lay planes down flat, you can blunt them, and always to lay them on their sides. Is that correct?
Hey Ben I've just bought my first set of chisels from Axminster :D
The black junk on the blue grits is steel and needs to be wiped off regularly or it will affect the sharpening. Yoou are correct that buying a whetstone wjould be cheaper. I think micro bevels make a lot of sense if you can get it right, otherwise the blade gets weaker the more you flatten the back.
With wet and dry you can just wet the paper on the rear side and it will hold on surface tension alone. Auto supplies have a range of papers, up to finest grits, although 3M sheets are much better (and better value if bought from Workshop Heaven)
You’re thinking of David Charlesworth, he invented the ruler trick. As mentioned Paul Sellers doesn’t use that.
Agree on the sharpening, wholly disagree on the Gibson Epiphone analogy. Most of us do not have thousands to throw at an over-priced Gibson LP, but can afford an Epiphone. I have one, and it is fine. Sure I have put money into it, but not because I had to. Some people pay thousands for an LP and still change things. So who is getting the best deal?
...Using only pull strokes will save your paper...of course, I say that despite the fact that I always forget at some point and tear the paper...diamond sharpening plates for knives come in very fine grades now and are inexpensive, though they don't tend to be large enough for many woodworking tools...
I didn't think Paul Sellers did the ruler trick. I know I've seen Chris Schwartz use it. And I believe I saw a Tom Fidgen video where he spoke with someone about inventing it. I kind of feel the same way about it. Something about it seems "dirty." Even if it is a very small angle, it still feels naughty. Obsessive compulsion kicks in and things need to be perfectly flat!!
Ben: Would the double tape-superglue trick work here? Attach the blade to the ruler. It'll be more awkward to sharpen but it'll be consistent.
I've used a varient of this for my blades as a noob hobbyist. Rather than metal or glass I found a good smooth flat tile. Probably not up to your standards but it worked for me.
And I now have a nice thin scar on my finger from a meat cleaver I used this on. Yay me.
I take it back. You'd end up sanding your ruler that way too.
+Allan McKenzie I used double sided tape and it a) produced a ridge and b) it took ages to remove the worn out sandpaper. I use water and clips now.
+Heather Malcolm Yea my setup uses clamps not tape. I'll admit it is because I'm lazy and too cheap to buy the tape ;) I don't do any serious wood work so it isn't top of my list. Videography however... I could end up like Ben and his planes.
I have looked at granite tiles and chopping boards before and thought they would be good for this system..
The masking tape trick would work but I would rather fix it directly to the plate somehow.. After the video I thought magnets may well have made life a bit easier...?
I'm sorry about your finger.. at least you got it sharp enough to cut though :)
+Crimson Custom Guitars Yea me and cutting onions doesn't work well no matter what knife haha.
Re magnets - you are making metal dust/mud so you might not want magnets near it.
The better solution I think is to not use the ruler at all as it adds more time and work if you don't want that micro bevel. I half expected you to go away in the middle of the video and do the rough spot on another tool then come back to the 400 citing time and preservation of sanity.
In my case I have a long belt of worn 240 which I used dry to rough it out faster. That would be in keeping with this paper system and since it's already thrashed it won't have the high spots it had when new. I figured it would count as half way between 240 and 400.
I've just watched you stropping again...is it me or is your leather the wrong way up?...looks like you have it smooth/shiny side up...shouldn't it be rough side up for removing the burr?
what grade of leather is your strap? and what kind of leather, cow, buffalo pig....?
Oh, and a VERY cheap way to get started in this is to go to a custom granite/composite quartz counter top business, and ask to look through their cutoffs with a straight edge. They just throw them in the trash. Big pieces of flat rock for free!
I've tried this too with no success. It feels like the sandpaper compresses just a hair and dull the edge. An india stone will take you far. Also try the buffing wheel followed by a light lick on a fine fine stone. Microbevels just messes with your head
Can one use a paste polishing compound on a strop? I have no idea where I could find that green gunk you rub on it :)
Loads of places selling various grades of rubbing compound....even Amazon or eBay...
Michael Barnes By searching "rubbing compound" brings me these auto paint polish compound bottles, which I already have. Which brings me to my original question. But I could of course try it out myself. I was just wondering if someone knew already if it's any good.
Only place I can think of selling those chunks of compound (I don't know what that green gunk is called :)) is stewmac, but no way I'm paying 64 dollars worth of postal fees for 25 dollar product... It kinda rules out any other US supplier too, the postal fees and tolls to EU are horrible.
Try searching for polishing compound, not sure why I said rubbing compound...Amazon sell the green silver line blocks like Paul sellers uses
+apinakapinastorba I tried searching metal polishing compound and found loads of supplies. Hears one on ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/301026922982?adgroupid=13585920426&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=kwd-119183069826&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&ff19=0&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80
eamonn280958 Hey, thanks man :) Found some metal compounds from local hardware store web site.
why don't you use eletrolysis to take out the rust from old tools?? like a car battery charger, water and baking poder.
your fixed angle issue is caused by using a fixed angle on the bottom ie the ruler and then using a free hand angle on the top of the piece.
It's the David Charlesworth ruler trick. Not the Paul Sellers, or Rob Cosman trick.
Couldn't you just use regular sand paper and the masking tape/super glue trick on a milled table saw surface to achieve the same results?
18:57 should be "The man is very very sharp". :D Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Btw, I don't know if it works, but I would have tried to attach something to the middle of the blade to stop it from moving laterally in relation to the ruler. Very interesting video. Thx!
Think you will find that paul sellers does not use the ruler method for sharpening plane blades your possibly thinking of Chris Schwartz
the Paul Sellers trick would have been to pound the belly out, not to bevel the back.
exactly, the name comes from "how scary expensive it is" !
I am also not so keen on using this ruler method of Paul Sellers although different stokes different folks and all. However, surely if you were to temporarily fix something direct to the plane iron whilst sharpening instead of using the ruler the same effect could be achieved whilst being sure to keep the angle consistent.
Ak! I've been out-thought yet again!?! :) great idea, if I ever have to do this again I will do that. Masking tape trick to a dry blade then move to the stones or whatever. Excellent idea, thank you!
+Crimson Custom Guitars My pleasure. Thank you for all of your excellent videos.
He's misleading ppl, that is not Paul sellers trick,
I'm sure the misleading was unintentional. I've seen this trick used by Rob Cosman, although I'm sure it must be fairly popular.
the problem was is your 3m adhesive is junk it doesn't allow your sandpaper to stick good enough it's better to buy good quality paper that has the adhesive on it. and gives a fast cut, that's made for cutting metal, not any hardware store paper will work. and it a good idea to have some lubercant to keep the blade moving smooth, that helps alot. you can add to the water or use honeright.
I've never seen Paul Sellers use a ruler while sharpening... And I've watched his channel obsessively for some time. I HAVE seen Rob Cosman use a ruler to create a back bevel.... and he believes your sharpening station should be at knee height, so you can rock back and forth as you're sharpening... so I don't think I'm going to start using a ruler any time soon. It's just too bad that plane blade is bellied on the back. Seems like a faster way to deal with a lousy problem.
I think I've conflated two methods I don't like in one.. Pauls rocking technique and the ruler trick.. My apologies to Paul, I may be recording a 2nd part to this video and will apologise live then..
+Crimson Custom Guitars Hi Ben, honest mistake, really. I've been thinking about this since I left the comment and I think I know what happened. (I would also like to apologize if I sounded like a troll before, it was not my intention... I obsessively watch your videos too! Lol) I think the mistake came from a video Paul did on preparing a plane. When he flattens the sole using sandpaper to ease the outside edges he places a ruler UNDERNEATH the paper to soften the hard corner. He also did a video using abrasive papers to prepare chisels, (I think just to demonstrate the method if a person didn't have wet stones or diamond plates) but was critical about the method. Rob Cosman uses shapton stones set at knee height at the end of his bench, uses the ruler "trick" to produce a back bevel, then only sharpens a microbevel on the front, all while rocking back and forth... which seems quite silly to me. Lol
Anyway, hello from Canada, have a good night!
+Crimson Custom Guitars. Ben, I have been promoting the ruler technique for about 30 years now. It is not used on chisels.
It was devised for Japanese waterstone sharpening and is used on the polishing stone only, say 6, 8, or 10,000 grit. A six inch, 0.5 mm thick stainless ruler is used. The method works perfectly, increases the probability of honing away the wire edge, and does away with the need for stropping. (A 10,000 grit polishing stone has grit which is probably finer than your stropping paste).
It has been adopted by Chris Schwarz, Rob Cosman and many other talented craftsmen. In general there is a pool of traditionalists who don't like it, I suspect Paul Sellers would be one!
David Charlesworth
cool shit bro.
You only apply pressure on the pull stroke Ben
I think I agree that that should be the case but I just can't seem to force myself to do it.. Do you find it makes much difference?
I only use it to polish after grinding on the Tormek. So it's like honing on a strop. However after learning to sharpen on oil stones that muscle memory is hard to shake.
You just want to relax into up and down up and down.
The ruler trick is a David Charlesworth invention, and you did not do it properly. Paul Sellers does not does not use microbevels!!
Carl, you got it right, though others use a ruler most of them credit Charlesworth as the originator of the technique. Though Charlesworth is a better woodworker then I'll ever be I don't like using the ruler trick because once you use it, it is very difficult to go back to flat.
try white vinegar for the pain soak it for 24 hours
I'd shit can that dam sand paper., n
highly unimpressed. in addition to opening yourself up to legal action from Mr Sellers, for making inaccurate statements about how he chooses to publicly perform his trade, a trade mind you that is worth a huge amount of money in the global community, you are coming across very unpalatable. I've seen a few of your videos, and perhaps building guitars away from social media might be more your thing. In a huge community of people who try to make a youtube career, from copying greats and trying to instruct as well as them, but in fact simply showcasing the latest tool they got their hands on, in that community, you are really vying for top spot. The dead commentary aside, if you must make videos, please be original, stop trying to make money by duplicating Paul Sellers or anyone else (gotta admit you're not the worst youtube offender by far), abandon the teaching angle (masterclass is really taking it a bit far), and make your videos to music. it will really improve your videos. i'm not trying to be mean, believe me, but there comes a point where feedback for a video made and delivered on social media precisely with the intent of generating feedback, needs to be made. Sorry bro. I kept my tongue behind my teeth until you tried to teach people, in a masterclass, that Mr Sellers uses the ruler trick. big fail.
Calm down ya Clown
Paul sellers does NOT use that technique, David Charlesworth came up with it, And was not executed property.....at all
You told a lie about master sellers
+Patrick Lawrence I know, now.. I confused him with master Charlesworth-brown I am absolutely terrible at names at the next of times :/
way too much useless banter, get to the point!