Best INEXPENSIVE Sharpening Kit THAT ACTUALLY WORKS / Scary Sharp System For Chisels and Plane Irons
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2021
- This might be the least expensive sharpening system that actually does a fantastic job at sharpening plane irons and chisels. For the beginner especially, who wants to spend as little as possible and get good results before investing into a more expensive system, the Scary Sharp system simply cannot be beat.
TOOLS IN THIS VIDEO:
The Sharpening System- lddy.no/z4yq
Sharpening System With Only Two Pcs Of Glass (even less expensive if used how I did)- lddy.no/z4yr
Inexpensive Honing Guide- lddy.no/z4yy
Extra Lapping Film (Half Sheet)- lddy.no/z4yv
Extra Lapping Film (Full Sheet)- lddy.no/z4yu
Individual Lapping Film- lddy.no/z4yx
Trend 300/1000 Diamond Stone- amzn.to/3iRTyLx
DMT 8000 Diamond Stone- amzn.to/3iTcE49
Leather Strop- lddy.no/z4yt
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Your videos are brilliant. You are talking to pro here. You're direct, clearly spoken and competent. My one observation is that you should not concern yourself with the critics that don't know half of what you do. Future videos....... know that you are much more competent than your audience. Tell your subscribers what they are going to hear. Tell them what they want to hear, them tell them that you told them. Your videos are clear, concise and useful. Keep it up. If there is any MINOR criticism, don't apologize, just teach. Great job.
Fantastic depth of your video. You’ve covered nearly all of the kinds of questions I’ve experienced in my exploration of sharpening art and science.
Great video. Thanks for the practical recommendation and tips without trying to push $200+ stones. You've earned a lot of trust by being honest and helpful.
Haven't seen you on UA-cam for a minute, I hope all is well with you and your family. You inspired me to create some amazing pieces and I am truly grateful for what you do. I finally picked up the sharpening from Tay tools. I will be sharpening my first plane after I get it cleaned up. Again, thank you for being such an inspiration.
Appreciate your straight to the point style of videos. Also, you gave me yet another great tip that I went straight to putting into practice. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, tips and tricks. These are very useful and perfect for a hobbyist woodworker like me who is still learning and doesn't want to drop hundreds of dollars on a sharpening system if I don't have to. Again, thank you very much!
Bro, you actually helped me out a bunch. I'm getting that kit and doing what you did. I was actually going to buy another expensive 8K grit glass stone until I saw this. I actually have the Taylor Toolworks scraper sharpening kit and it uses glass and those sheets and I love it. My scraper has never worked so well! So yeah, I am getting this today. Thank you!
Awesome video! I quit believing in coincidence many years ago and this furthers my belief. I was just looking at the sharpening kit Taylor Toolworks offered and have been pursuing a good sharpening system for several months now. I wasn't sure how it functioned and was unsure what to purchase "since they all claim to be the best", until I watched your video and it dispelled the doubts in my head. I now know which path I will follow. Thanks again for taking the time to break it down Barney style for some of us slow folks. I truly appreciate what you do 👍
Great tips Jodee. I started with an inexpensive sharpening system like the one you showed here. Great system. I eventually moved to diamond stones also and love them. One tip I picked up from James Hamilton (Stumpy Nubs) is to use Windex on the diamond stones to prevent any water from staying down in the grit after it's "dry" and possibly getting rust in the stone and lessening its effectiveness. Also, something about the micron size of the windex is smaller than other lubricants... 🤷♀️ Great video and lots of info as always, thanks for this!
Thanks again for.a quality synopsis. I appreciate the the differences that you showed.
Super job! Great summary and lots of useful practical information. Thanks a ton!
Thanks for the demo, looks like the way to go for myself. I have never been one to do much sharpening this appears to be the an affordable way for me to get started.
Great information and clearly presented so a novice like myself doesn’t get lost in the terminology
I bought the System and was looking for videos on how to properly set it up and fortunately I found your video. Perfect by giving me all the info I needed. Thanks.
great day! this looks wonderful. want to gift my brother with the system and i just want to know from users how it is holding up. did you need to change sheets every year or whatever? mygreathanks and blessings
I love this kit and of course the video. Thank you very much I am going to purchase this and try it out.
Thanks so much. Just bought the system.
By far the most informative channel that I've found!
I’ve been using the scary sharp system for over a year now and it’s taken my sharpening to another level. As a new woodworker, I watched so many videos on UA-cam and bought water stones and diamond plates, but just couldn’t seem to get it right. I wish I’d found this system earlier; it’s cleaner (I use water with a few drops of dish soap) and it’s helped me become better at joinery, because I now have chisels and plane blades with lovely shiny backs and super sharp edges. It’s also a really good price, and until I find another alternative, I’ll be sticking with it for the foreseeable future. Highly recommended.
Great video, with a nice clear presentation. Have a like.
great day! this looks wonderful. want to gift my brother with the system and i just want to know from users how it is holding up. did you need to change sheets every year or whatever? mygreathanks and blessings
Great job - I always leave your videos learning something
Excellent summary- thanks 👍😎👍
Great video and channel. You have a very good way of teaching and explaining how and why. Keep that content coming as you’re able!
Thanks for sharing those tips!
Another excellent video - unlike so many, it doesn’t dictate to you but informs you.
My experience. I’ve got a Tormek water grinder; Norton wet stones in various grades; diamond stones upto 1000 grit; adhesive abrasive (from Axminster Tools) in various grades and the scary sharp system. So, I have both done a lot of research and wasted a lot of money.
What is my definition of sharp? It is when the blade feels good taking very thin shavings from a difficult (wavy grain) piece of hardwood.
So, my experience. The Tormek is excellent at re-grinding and getting upto 1000 grit. However, it is incredibly expensive and needs maintenance to keep the grinding stone flat. Norton stones are very good also and get much finer; also very expensive; also very expensive and somewhat messy. Diamond stones are very good at getting up to 1000 grit (I don’t have finer) and seem to need no maintenance.
The scary sharp system is the cheapest but seems to deliver (using my very un scientific test) the same quality on undamaged blades. If I have a damaged blade, I do use the Tormek to begin with; if I didn’t have the Tormek, I would use the Diamond stones.
90%of the sharpening I need is maintenance sharpening - refining the blade after some use. For me to not be lazy; for me to continually refine a blade even whilst in use, I need a quick, easy, least-mess system that I can have on my bench so that it easier to sharpen than ignore it. For this, I have found the scary sharp system to be the one. That might alter if I had a much finer grit set of diamond stones but why would I pay out (even more) money to have something to equal scary sharp.
The downsides of scary sharp. It tears; I have tried the up and down motion and successfully ruined sheets of scary sharp. I know only use the back motion. It relies upon a flat substrate; I use a piece of plate glass because I was told that it is flatter than float glass - does that matter? I suspect not but remain a sucker buying what people tell me.
I would say that as equally as important as the sharpening system is the blade holder jig. Get that bit wrong and your sharpening will not result in good results. I’m not talking about the accuracy of the angle here (25 degrees; 30 degrees etc) as I don’t think it matters at all if I get a primary bevel of 24 degrees or 26 degrees. I’m taking about squareness (bevel edge to side of plane or chisel blade) and consistency (reshape I got to the same as before). Again, I have tried several sharpening jigs/holders. I want squareness (the jig holding the blade square to roller or whatever) and tightness ( so that the blade doesn’t move). The Veritas mark II is my preferred option because I have it. If I didn’t, then I could make a jig ( I think Matt Estlea has) to do the job.
Apologies for going on. My search for a practical sharpening system that gets the blades as sharp as I want is over. I don’t want blades so precious, so sharp that I darent use them. I want blades that feel sharp enough to me. Hope that helps. Someone. Somewhere.
Great write up! Thanks.
great day! this looks wonderful. want to gift my brother with the system and i just want to know from users how it is holding up. did you need to change sheets every year or whatever? mygreathanks and blessings
@@paulbraga4460 the sheets certainly do need replacing - like any abrasive, they wear out and lose effectiveness. How often? Depends upon how much you use them. I think you would need to look at anything from 2 to 5 times a year depending upon use.
@@theofarmmanager267 mygreathanks and blessings
Thanks for the video. This seems like the simple, no brainier type of sharpening system for me! I went ahead and ordered. I'm thinking router bit sharpening could be possible as well? Can't wait!
Got a good start on a safecracker's thumbprint, huh? This is a great system and extremely well explained. Thank you. I've seen Mexican and Central American craftsmen travel north with the system they use at home, various grits of high quality sandpaper and a little piece of float glass. Incidentally, a glass man told me float glass replaced rolled glass when they started establishing "flat" on a bed of molten tin.
Great information. Well presented!!
It is a great sharpening system. I use it for my LN 5 1/2 and block plane as well as chisels. Brilliant cheap system.
Brilliant review!
I’ve been using the 100 micron for flattening the sole of an old plane, great stuff.
Thanks so much Jesse, great information, as usual.
Your logic is rewarding. They may not compare to using Shapton stones, but they sure are cheaper. Thank you
Another informative video thanks 🇨🇦
Very impressive really sharp planer !
Full of funky Bro you just saved me a lot of money and time
Really excellent tip, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very good. Always looking to save a buck these days. Smart move with dividing up the paper and having all the grits mounted at once. Then, replace only the ones needed.
When I got this kit about a year ago the first thing I did was make copies of the instructions. I am colorblind so I had my wife mark the film with the corresponding grits, I had to trust her LOL. Works as advertised. I have not seen this system used in an up down method like you did. I was afraid to tear the film so I followed the instructions (at the time) by only pulling down then lifting and putting it back at the top and pulling down again. I will have to try that. Thanks for taking the time to share this information.
Have you ever used a piece of marble for polishing their finished edge?
@@HomeImProveMentHow yes. I use 3/8th inch thick, by 12"x12" marble tiles with three, 3"-wide strips of adhesive-backed abrasive paper on each tile. Works for me.
Nice, thanks
I have this kit, and it performs just as shown. A really great lower priced alternative. Thanks for sharing!!!
Fantastical...I must have....
Thanks
Interesting... I'm thinking of ordering some sheets of this stuff to stick to 3x5 aluminum plates to use as a camping sharpening kit. 3 plates in a small pocket in a pack would provide a seriously light weight sharpening kit for almost any application.
great day! this looks wonderful. want to gift my brother with the system and i just want to know from users how it is holding up. did you need to change sheets every year or whatever? mygreathanks and blessings🙏
What kind of jig is that you are using to sharpen that plane blade with? It obviously works good for you and I would like to know if you don't mind what brand of jig that is and where you got it. Thanks for another great video.
Awesome video! About how long do you find your lapping film lasts? Looks like you do about 15 seconds before moving to the next grit -- perhaps measuring in minutes would be most universal.
Very informative for a new-comer. One question...can this system be used for knives also? There are so many videos showing how to sharpen chisels and plane irons but I can't find any on knives.
Tremendous now let’s hope I get it to the UK
Bob
England
Great guide regarding a simple way to sharpen. I have a question (concern really) with your decision to use short pieces of the film though. Every time you go onto and off the film, you are changing the angle of the chisel being sharpened. It seems as though, when some blades require 25°, some 27°and others 30°, 1 degree here or there matters a lot. Perhaps I'm being too precise in my thinking??
If you listen to the shop talk live podcast by fine wood working magazine, that 300 stone is only if you had to grind down your edge due to a big chip missing and need a new edge. 1k should be your starting point, then a 3 or 4k for the medium and then the 8-12k range for the final polish. This will get you truely sharp.
A quick question..... How are you storing the float glass so it is not damaged. Want to store it so it is not taking up a lot of space on my bench. TIA
Just got some bday money and getting that trend 300/1000 diamond stone. I'm hoping you still prefer it?
@InspireWoodcraft Man, I wish I found this video two years ago when I first bought my scary sharp! 😂 Curious as to whether you’re still using this system, sticking with the diamond plates, or perhaps something else? (Also, I’ve always used water with my SH system, so I’ll have to try WD40 or perhaps 3-in-1.) Have you heard anything about the Taytools drill press sharpener system? A couple guys in my community love it, but I’m trying to figure out next steps. I heard Izzy Swan has an ingenious jig (not surprising) as well. I just won’t be able to afford a Tormek anytime soon, and I feel like I go through the SH lapping paper too quickly.
Btw, big fan of your channel. Thanks much for all the knowledge sharing over the last few years. Happy holidays!
Good review. I've been using sandpaper on a scrap of glass, but it's good to know where to get the film. I noticed you're using a scalpel holder style utility knife. Which one is it? How do you fell about it? I almost bought one a while back but I chickened out.
It is this knife (amzn.to/3qcoPuj). Which reminds me, I need to order new blades! I love it! Had it around five years and carry it daily. The only downside is that because the blades are thin, it isn't good for prying. Otherwise it's perfect.
Great video as always. Have you done a video on using this system for kitchen knife sharpening?
@Dave Carpenter I have not. I actually haven't tried it yet on kitchen knives, but I've seen other do it and have great success.
@@InspireWoodcraft
Thanks
Glass cleaner (windex) works great as a lubricant for this process
I'm just starting to think about sharpening my own dull-sharp edges lol. Chisels, scissors, kitchen knives, tree trimmers and pruners (curved blades). Is this a good system for all of those or do I need something else more specific to each application. I'm a low fixed income senior so cannot be too spendy. Thank you for your help.
I don't see why this wouldn't work for any straight edge and outside radius blades. Blades with an inside radius might be a challenge but not at the fault of the lapping film, just because you might need something that has a radius as well. I don't have much experience sharpening inside edges. I would have no problem sharpening my knives with this system though.
Second thought here, and mainly question to you as well as the comment community: I have a lot of tempered glass around - would that be equal in quality / flatness to the float glass? Really curious here.
No, tempered glass is rounded, you want to use plate glass.
Very good review. The one question you did not address: How long does each piece of film last? Is it good for one sharpen, two, ten? Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Yeah, if it costs 40-50$ but it doesn't last, it's really not a good investment for a beginner. Might as well just start with cheap wet & dry sandpaper then.
I've purchased cheap sandpaper and have been able to get planes and chisels very sharp. The downside was the paper wore quickly and curled when wet. Possibly good automotive wet sanding paper from 3M would hold up better. I bought a cheap bulk pack on Amazon. I have better systems now, but it got me started. I've sharpened 3 planes and 4 chisels from barely cutting to very sharp with the cheap setup. When flattening the backside of a plane blade or chisel, you'll run through quite a bit of rough paper to get them flattened.
@@BlcokedAccount Same, cheap sandpaper works but it's obviously not great. But I feel like if you're going to spend 40$ you might as well spend 20 or so more and go for a "cheap" diamond stone like the ones from Trend or Axminster.
@@kz.irudimen I agree 100%. I bought stones next and a flattening stone. Moved on to diamonds next. Wasn't sure how dedicated I was going to be to woodworking, so I incurred the incremental costs instead of buying the right stuff once.
I'm at that point now, getting tired of the cheap sandpaper and I'm probably going to buy an axminster 400/1000 diamond stone for 53€. Should be a nice upgrade :)
*Have you ever used a piece of marble for polishing in finished edge?*
I’ve got a Steel City table saw with a stone top. I often use it for a flattening surface when I don’t feel like breaking out my flat stones or can’t use the Tormek. I’ll only do my 2nd set of chisels and plane. You know, the ones that bounce around in the toolbox that you might open a can of paint with, not my nice set. And only ever up to 1000, since I do this dry, (the paper is dry paper)band I’m not looking for a showroom cut, usually only 400, 600, 800. I’ll use some peel and stick (psa) longboard 2.75” width paper and just stick it to the table saw (or band saw) table, 3 strips side by side and starting at the edge. Close to the edge is nice for a longer stroke not possible for a handled blade if it was stuck in the middle of the table. Flatten the back side of a chisel, or plane blade. I’ve done chisel, plane, chisel breaker, cutter, sole and sides of a plane, or cheap electric planer, knicked belt sander plate, dinged spade drill bits, puddy knife, flat head screwdriver (remember those)...
Cleanup is easy they just peel up and a wipe with a thinner or wd40 cleans up any glue.
Sometimes they just get left there until I need the full table saw width. Comes in handy for just dragging anything across it, a board, plastic, hatchet, trowel, small garden shovel.
I had a dedicated surface, just the infeed Tbl from a scrapped jointer, until I repurposed it as a miter saw extension.
Again, I’m not comparing my rough surface repairs to the fine edges from the the system in the video. I’m just saying I do use any flat surface stone, aluminum, or steel for some quick, rough flattening, sharpening, surface rust removal..
"...when I feel like I want to be frustrated at something, I'll break it out..." (*urinated on self laughing*) ((paused)) But seriously, why? Also, I'd have done strips of the film exactly half of the float glass full length, so that your sharpening jig will engage the surface of the film as well, and make sure the .. exact .. angle you want is maintained. Just a thought.
Great tip video, man. I saw the Katz-Moses take on this and thought, "Hmm, nah." After seeing you try this, I may change my mind - and buy a rolling angle jig.
Also - awesome hairstyle.
Was really interested in this so followed the link and went though the ordering process. All was fine 'til it came to payment and shipping. I'm in UK, sio expected a reasonable amount would be added for shipping. For a $43.99 item they wanted $60.94, making a total of $105! Needless to say this is one customer they lost....
It's 3m lapping paper. 3m is a global brand I'm sure you can find it in UK! Scary Sharp is available in Poland for example. If it's here there's no way it's not imported to UK.
Float glass is as flat as the radius of earth so on our scale it's very flat. Best thing is that it's the most common form of glass. You can find bit cheaply localy. Hope that helps.
How strong is the bond of abrasive?
How long does the film last, as you eluded to lengthening the life of the product by cutting the sheets into smaller pieces. When/if they do wear out, how easily do they come off the glass?
They come off the glass easily. You just have to get a blade or something under one corner to get it started, and then they'll pull right off. I cleaned the glass in the sink with soap and water and all was well. Longevity is kind of a broad term and holds a different meaning to everyone, which is why I didn't try to make claims to how long it lasts. Depends on what you sharpen, how you sharpen, how often you sharpen. From what I've seen it is very durable and wears quite well.
It seems to work pretty good. I hope everyone realizes this might not be a very good money saving investment/permanent system for everyday woodworkers. It can be very expensive to keep replacing sheets like this. Some people might be much better off buying some quality diamond stones that will never need to be replaced. For some, the cost of sheets will quickly surpass the price of high quality diamond stones. I guess it depends on if you plan on sharpening for decades to come. Those $40 refills add up. It seems like a good system to try out. Just be mindful of how long they last and before you re-up, try and do the math and see if you will really be saving any money after 1 more year at that rate.. Then calculate 10 years.. I'd bet not everyone will save money. Only 1 way to find out...
You said you ground a 25 degree angle on your Kobolt plane iron. What did you use to do that?
The honing guide. I don't have an appropriate electric grinder.
One thing I don't get, and I don't see in the Taylor Toolworks instructions: how does 7 grits make sense with only 3 pieces of glass? It seems I'd have one left over. Am I supposed to be peeling one off and substituting it with another piece of film? Am I only supposed to pick my 6 favorites and use those?
Using Jodee's advice to cut the sheets in half, you could have one face with a different grit at either end. Alternatively, Taylor Toolworks sells the float glass individually and in 2- and 3-packs. I bought extra pieces of glass and also bought some other coarser grits not included in the Scary Sharp package to be able to lap plane soles as well.
about, how long/many sharpenings can you see from each setup?
Hi. With regards to how many times you can use the film, depends on what grit (or micron) you use. If of course you need to aggressively remove material to correct a damaged edge or flatten the back of a chisel or plane, then not very long (I normally use a 3” wide strip that’s about 8” long, and it lasts about an hour). The finer grits will last longer because you’re only honing an edge or creating a secondary bevel. Whether my method is correct, I certainly hope so, but this is what I’ve found works for me and it’s correct according to the video produced in conjunction with Workshop Heaven, who sells the kits here in the UK. All the best.
This must be the same Scary Sharp system Katz-Moses reviewed about a year ago? If you're from Canada, get it locally, because the customs costs from Tay Tools makes this not cheap up here. I believe Lee Valley Canada has the 3M lapping films
I bought a 12" x 24" piece of float glass locally for $11 and ordered the PSA lapping film online....a much cheaper way to "build" your own kit
3M makes the best sand paper I've ever used. I like to buy those 5" hook and loops for my round palm sander. Nothing compares. So if the scarey sharp system is made by 3M, then it's very good indeed!
No need for a $100+ diamond stone. Plenty of $30 ones on Amazon. I got mine for $18 on sale. I've used it for 2 years and it's still as good as new. Used it to reprofile dozens of knives, flatten a few hand plane soles, flatten chisels, sharpen knives, chisels, plane irons, scissors, etc.
Which one was it? What brand?
Do you push and pull when sharpening with that paper?
On the back of a chisel or plane blade you can do both, but when creating a secondary bevel, I’d recommend only pulling back towards you, especially on the finer grits.
The abrasive that comes with this system is on a plastic film rather than paper like wet/dry sandpaper and seems like it will be more durable. This video sent me searching for more information and reviews (I trust Jodee's recommendation, but other viewpoints may have experiences to learn from). One comment I read regarding push-pull was to use only pull for any of the grades 1 micron or smaller due to the risk of cutting/tearing the film. Just ordered and received this system this week, so I don't have any personal experience to back up that advice yet. I expect to have sharpened all of my plane blades and chisels by the end of the weekend and will report if I have any issues. I will say as you get close to the 1 micron size it doesn't feel like an abrasive because of how fine it is and would be more akin to stropping in use.
FIRST!
How long does a sheet last for? Ish...
I like that you're economizing but every time the wheel skips on that ledge of the paper you screw up your scratch pattern and compromise your angle. It would be better to have the paper long enough so the wheel can always be on the paper to keep things truly flat.
Great price in the US but in the UK for the same kit costs £163!! GUTTED! Looks like diamond stones for me.
I was told not to move forward and back with the lapping film, pull only as you can tear the film.
I think that’s for the paper. I go back and forth with the film and have no issue. It’s more like a plastic. Works great.
Float glass should be perfectly flat due to how it's manufactured...just fyi
It's in my understanding that the diamond stones will last for years and years. But those sheets how many times can be used? Maybe 50-80 dollars for each diamond stone is not so expensive. I don't know
They won't last forever, but they do last a lot longer than you'd guess. Biggest trouble is accidentally tearing the paper. I've never worn out the paper before I've torn it.
@@mileshh515 Whats fun is tearing the paper on the first pass...
How did he NOT tear the paper when lapping forwards and backwards? It says to only pull, pushing will tear the paper.
@Adrian Decaux High quality diamond stones can last for a long time, but it usually is a "you get what you pay for" situation. The lesser expensive diamond stones are a lot of times not even stones, especially at that price point. I have one that is $80. 400 on one side and 1200 on the other. It is two thin metal plates that magnetically attach to a plastic housing. The plastic housing will warp and move, and the metal plates will flex accordingly, which means you will never get the same scratch pattern twice or an actually flat edge. One could argue that in the long run the lapping film will add up to the same price as a decent diamond stone (or two or three), which is why I think breaking the kit up into several pieces is a smart way to go. As for longevity, there's no solid answer. It depends on how often you sharpen, which of course depends on how often you use the tools. It also depends on the material you are working with and the tool steel you are cutting with. Too many variables to know how long any sharpening system will last for anyone, honestly.
@Nik Boatright I don't remember seeing instructions that say "pull only", but I may have missed something. This is not paper, it's like a tough, thin plastic almost. It sticks to the float glass via self adhesion and stays flat, unlike wet/dry paper which suctions to the surface with water. I've use the paper method before and was not a big fan. More trouble than what it was worth, in my opinion. This just works, and works well.
@@InspireWoodcraft Got it, thanks for your reply, I'll try the sheets then. Thanks
Where ist the machine, which makes this in 10 seconds? I don't want to make this a rocket science. When my chisel is dull, it has to be sharp in 30 seconds. Maximum!
That's why I like having a strop nearby.
This is wrong. You're only supposed to pull the blade, and never push it, with the Scary sharp system. Your film won't last long if you push and pull.
But the wheel is off the paper , doesn’t that change your target degree , you know what im sayin right ? I guess you could compensate by changing your protruding length just a thought … lol