Thank you! I am proud, glad that nothing went wrong, glad that I got to spend the time fixing it with friends and my dad, and even glad we stuck with the original concept of the little 230, because you don't see any rebuilt and at car shows. Everyone wants more and more power, we just needed it back on the road and reliable for as little money as possible.
I had a 250 in a 1976 GMC Sierra that I gave a grand total of $75 for the whole truck. It was an old farm truck that had never been registered or tagged and had 75000 original miles. The truck was in very rough condition. I wound up replacing everything but the cab. The 250, however, was in great shape and very tough. All I ever did to the engine was unplug a wire that was connected to the carb...if I left it plugged in, the truck idled @ about 6000 rpm. Unplugged it ran normally. I put s new battery in it and drove it problem free for three years. I wish I still had it.
very impressive kid, thanks for your contribution to society. you will go far. I wish more people would make videos like this to help out eachothers builds.
@@OakvilleConcreteContractor thanks man! It was fun and I will be doing another one soon that makes a little more power. Right now I’d like to put a better carb on here but not too big since intakes are expensive and it’s all stock. But a 2 barrel that works correctly would be an upgrade. The one barrel has some issues, still drivable though.
Good Lookin Engine. At 3:15 "Startin to Look Like a Motor Now" hahahaha I get that. For me it happens when I'm misting that "Chevy Orange" on em... Ever seen 1 of Davin's from Hagerty's engine paint jobs? The man goes.....all out!!!
Great video guys really enjoyed watching, just love how simple these engines are wish engines hadn't gotten so complicated but I guess its progress. Again thanks for sharing
The chrome valve cover on my 292 rusted. I should have waxed or polished or clear coated it. (A heads up, for what it's worth.) I'm glad to see another straight six on the go. They're really good engines, unreasonably looked down on. They make plenty of power and torque, and are smooth and good on fuel, besides being nice to look at. And because everybody and his dog, and its fleas, all have V8s, the straight sixes are exceptional. I put a QuadraJet on an Offenhauser manifold on my 292, (53 Pontiac) but I'm going to stick with the MonoJet on my 250. (40 Buick) I read about 250s or 292s having progressive two barrels, in the last year or so of production, and with the integral heads. It's also nice to see a Bel Air four door getting some well deserved respect.
That's why I wanted to keep this engine alive, nobody bothers with them and a V8 would just create more work and problems with the extra hp. I'd want to upgrade other things that it doesn't really need. My buddy's 79 k5 has a 250 with that two barrel and the head with the intake casted to the head all as one. But he had to switch it to the regular style head, and now has a Holley 390 4 barrel. Ours still needs a better carb, and a dual master cylinder with new rear wheel cylinders.
@@Trikekid84 Years ago I had a two barrel to one barrel adapter, sold (I think) by Trans Dapt, in case you think of going that route. The dual master cylinder is "a sound idea". I use K car ones on my old cars.
@@micahfrye8885 Well, in Canada, of course, where our gallons are bigger. (Small attempt at humor there - I feel your pain.) I once read a comment from a guy who said with a two ton (heavy, anyway) load on, he got 11 mpg from his 292. And with no load, he got 11 mpg. My 292 experience has been better, running through a 700R4 and a 2.73 rear axle. My concept of good fuel economy is outdated, but when I formed it, 20 mpg (Imperial gallons, 5/4 of US gallons) - so 16 mpg US - was considered pretty good. Mine has exceeded that while cruising. 4 mpg seems really low. Good thing gas is so cheap, isn't it?
@@stephenandloriyoung5716 that is pretty good considering I could never get more than 12.5 from a 300 i6 f150 that had a 5 speed, 4wd, and 3:55 gearing. Another great engine for it's time.
Really interesting! I just bought a 1958 Apache 3800 dump truck with a 235. It starts, runs, drives like a top haha, even the dump is strong. Lots of lifter noise, sounds a bit like a diesel. I am trying to decide what to do, I think I’ll keep it original.
Runs great! Carb has a lean spot still but besides that it runs smoothly. Might switch to 10w40, oil pressure drops on a long trip but only when it's hot hot.
Runs great! Carb has a lean spot still but besides that it runs smoothly. Might switch to 10w40, oil pressure drops on a long trip but only when it's hot hot.
i had a few novas with the 6's 230's 250's the 230's use the same piston as the 283 v-8 i even had a pontiac 215 6 it use the same pistons as a 265 v-8 makes me think of good will hunting
One thing I didn't see, you should only tighten the 1st head bolt on the driver's side to 85 LBS. FT. on these 3rd gen Stovebolts, except for the 292. That part of the block is weak, and making that bolt 95 can easily cause the walls of the water jacket in that area to crack. It is hardly worth trying to fix that area, as the crack is often inaccessible. (Someday when gas engines are as rare as hen's teeth, that will be a different story).
I think I show that in a separate video but I did know about that. I think the 235 and the 292 have more material there, taller deck. But yes don't over torque that one. Thanks for watching!
My 63 Belair inline 6, that I've owned since 1999, has gone from a 5 qt to 6 qt oil change. How about yours? Did it change too? I have always changed my own, and suddenly it has grown another quart's worth of capacity. I am stumped.
@@Trikekid84 Imagine MY surprise at this turn of events. I was lucky to have the extra quart as I was doing my truck too, but had to get the extra quart later for the truck. I daily drove a 63 Biscayne 6 banger from 1990 to 99, but got the Belair and parked the 'Cayne. It's always been 5 qts with the filter, but is now 6. Reality appears to be flexible. 🫨
great video , did you install a new harmonic blancer ? if so where did you find it? i have the same car and engine , and cant find a blancer no where . Thanks
You can oil the cylinders and break it free. But it won't last too long after you get it running, usually when that happens it's just really hard on the rings after that. Worth fixing though!
The machine shop cleaned the engine and provided most of the internal parts. The gaskets, cam, and lifters were from rock auto. Valve covers and lifter covers I found on eBay. And everything else we re-used like rods and the crank.
@@brandonmitzel I think the machine shop charged us $800-1000, can't remember exactly, but that was with all the parts we needed besides the dress up parts and paint. The bad cam lobe snowballed into a full rebuild. I had fun rebuilding it and you don't see any 6s at car shows which is another reason we kept this engine, and it was cheaper overall.
In order to tighten the rockers you need to rotate the crankshaft to put the next lifters on "neutral" position before setting the screws, right? Isn't it a problem since it's gonna spread the camshaft lube outside?
You can set both rockers at the same time as long as you are on the compression stroke. I rotated the engine a lot trying to figure out things and I can't see how there would be any cam assembly lube still on the lobes, but it hasn't failed.
@@Trikekid84 Thanks, man! My camshaft went loose from the gear and moved toward the block. Totally mess. Just bought a new camshaft and was trying to figure out how to tighten the rockers without moving the engine, which would remove the lube from the cam.
love your video! I am hoping to get your opinion on something. I have a chevy 350 that I want to freshen up without machining. I specifically want to replace the main and rod bearings to increase engine longevity. So regarding the rod bearings, can I just replace them, do the clearance checks, and retorque them without having to change the rod bolts/nuts? Its just a stock, average HP late 70' engine that is just a daily driver. Thoughts on this?
@@jtp682 If I were you, and you are not boring the cylinders, I would AT LEAST run a dingle-ball hone on a drill through the bores, and replace the rings. It's very cheap insurance that the engine will have fresh compression, won't burn oil, and will last MUCH longer, than if you don't do it. A dingle-ball hone is cheap as heck, and new stock replacement rings don't cost much either. For the time and very little money you'd have invested, it would be WELL worth it.
One doesn't even need to know where TDC is on any of the cylinders to lash the valves. I use the "E.O.I.C." (E.xhaust O.pening, I.ntake C.losing) method to lash valves... Rotate the engine in it's normal direction of rotation until the exhaust valve just begins to open, the intake lifter is now on the base circle of the cam, lash the intake valve on that cylinder. Now rotate the engine again until the intake valve fully opens, and stop rotating it when it just gets past max lift and starts to close, now the exhaust lifter will be on the base circle, lash the exhaust valve. Proceed the same way for the rest of the cylinders.. You do NOT have to know, and follow, the firing order for the particular engine you are working on to lash the valves this way, but if you do know it, and follow it, there will be much less manual turning of the crankshaft to get the valves in the correct positions.
It'll never wear out of phase with the crank! Which also helps the timing always be correct. Ford did this on the 300 as well which makes them last a long time. Not sure why other engines even use chains.
hey my grandfather left me a 1981Chevy C10 custom deluxe inline 6..... I want to keep the original motor but try to get a lit more power wat would u suggest
Cam for sure, not sure how much it would help to raise the compression, but if it needs pistons you can look into it. That engine should have hardened exhaust seats so that should be good. I'd say just a cam and a 4 barrel intake and carb. I've seen 2barrel efi setups, that would be cool. Headers would help too. Basically anything that you would do to a 350. If you keep the stock pistons, look into how much you can mill the head. Also, look up lump porting the head. The stock head bolts go through all the ports and is killing flow. Hope this gives you some ideas.
Ok. I would TIGed it or bought another oil pan, I have literaly years of experience using JB weld. Trust me after a little while that epoxy will pull away from the metal.
@@DYLAN102001 I could not find a new pan anywhere, after blasting it was full of holes so we welded in a patch and there was a few tiny drips so I jb welded it and it's been good for 4 years. Will it last? Not sure but so far so good.
@@Trikekid84 Craigslist my man. I have 2 whole motors from some chevy K5s. Currently rebuilding one for a generator, that how I came across your video. Tried jb weld to fix a timing chain off a small block. Scrubbed and roughed up the surfaceon both sides, started leaking around the weld. Wish I just bought a new one. Also tried fixing a head on a Buick 3300 motor, same thing. Hopefully it stays leak free. If it leaks you know who to call.
i have a 235 with hydro lifters but it has the old tube that the rockers ride on its a 1953. can i change the head to a rockers like the one in the vid
@@Trikekid84 yup.. all SBCs and BBCs at car shows now, can make 2hp per cubic in on the 292 as well.. I'm gonna stick it in a very commonly LS swapped Chevy truck.
All terrain tv, I have a whole bunch of videos on the build. It's all stock though. You could get a lump port kit, mill the head, get a cam, headers, and a 4barrel intake with a 390cfm carb. Might only make 200hp but would probably have decent torque. I just love these engines because they are simple as heck and you don't see them too much anymore. The i6 has come a long way. I hear the new trail blazer engines like boost more than a LS in some cases.
Are parts for these hard to find. I have a chance to get a 250 complete for 200. I just don't want to start rebuilding and not be able to finish. Good job on this one BTW.
I found everything I needed, they make performance parts too, just that I couldn't find a oil pan but the 230 in the cars were not very common, the 250 was more common so you can probably find everything you need.
If you have something to use it in . I remember back when they were common. The Chevy 6 cylinder engines were all good. The 250s are simply one of the best engines ever. Maybe not if you're into racing. Although my brother and I each had nova with one. They were both fast enough to get in trouble.
Single barrel Rochester B. Still has a lean spot when you accelerate, we have just been driving around it. Probably an acceleration pump problem but I can't figure it out. Would like to try a 2 barrel.
I think we have $900 in the engine and then maybe $50 in paint, bolts and gaskets that's about it. The alternator, radiator, ignition parts were all replaced before the cam went out.
@@jeancadet5862 the machine shop for most of it. Hastings rings and bearings are what I remember, not sure the brand in the pistons, felpro gaskets. Summit racing, jegs, or rock auto. We actually got the cam and lifters from rock auto.
Your title made me think of Vice Grip Garage. He spray paints the engine so it looks pretty and says, “Oh, wow! New rod bearings!”
The engine is straight up gorgeous, be proud of the time and effort you put into this.
Thank you! I am proud, glad that nothing went wrong, glad that I got to spend the time fixing it with friends and my dad, and even glad we stuck with the original concept of the little 230, because you don't see any rebuilt and at car shows. Everyone wants more and more power, we just needed it back on the road and reliable for as little money as possible.
@3:17 man that drop on the music is nasty.. good looking rebuild and some nice jams.. A 1 video Brother!
Thanks man! Choosing music that is not copyrighted is a challenge.
Fantastic job guys!!
This is the motivation I need to get my butt in gear.
PS. That's a fine looking 63.👍👍
I had a 250 in a 1976 GMC Sierra that I gave a grand total of $75 for the whole truck. It was an old farm truck that had never been registered or tagged and had 75000 original miles. The truck was in very rough condition. I wound up replacing everything but the cab.
The 250, however, was in great shape and very tough. All I ever did to the engine was unplug a wire that was connected to the carb...if I left it plugged in, the truck idled @ about 6000 rpm. Unplugged it ran normally. I put s new battery in it and drove it problem free for three years.
I wish I still had it.
very impressive kid, thanks for your contribution to society. you will go far. I wish more people would make videos like this to help out eachothers builds.
@@OakvilleConcreteContractor thanks man! It was fun and I will be doing another one soon that makes a little more power. Right now I’d like to put a better carb on here but not too big since intakes are expensive and it’s all stock. But a 2 barrel that works correctly would be an upgrade. The one barrel has some issues, still drivable though.
Good Lookin Engine. At 3:15 "Startin to Look Like a Motor Now" hahahaha I get that. For me it happens when I'm misting that "Chevy Orange" on em... Ever seen 1 of Davin's from Hagerty's engine paint jobs? The man goes.....all out!!!
Well done young man! I'm glad to see you have an appreciation for the Inline 6!
Love the inline 6 n d 63 Belair!
Great video guys really enjoyed watching, just love how simple these engines are wish engines hadn't gotten so complicated but I guess its progress. Again thanks for sharing
Great motors. Great video. Haven’t seen one of these apart for a long time. Take note of the timing gears.
Commenting for support
Excellent job!!
I loved the bat flying through at 3:43.
Looking back on this like it's one of my only build videos where nothing really went wrong 😂. Thanks for watching!
You guys killed it. Nice job!!!
The chrome valve cover on my 292 rusted. I should have waxed or polished or clear coated it. (A heads up, for what it's worth.) I'm glad to see another straight six on the go. They're really good engines, unreasonably looked down on. They make plenty of power and torque, and are smooth and good on fuel, besides being nice to look at. And because everybody and his dog, and its fleas, all have V8s, the straight sixes are exceptional. I put a QuadraJet on an Offenhauser manifold on my 292, (53 Pontiac) but I'm going to stick with the MonoJet on my 250. (40 Buick) I read about 250s or 292s having progressive two barrels, in the last year or so of production, and with the integral heads. It's also nice to see a Bel Air four door getting some well deserved respect.
That's why I wanted to keep this engine alive, nobody bothers with them and a V8 would just create more work and problems with the extra hp. I'd want to upgrade other things that it doesn't really need. My buddy's 79 k5 has a 250 with that two barrel and the head with the intake casted to the head all as one. But he had to switch it to the regular style head, and now has a Holley 390 4 barrel. Ours still needs a better carb, and a dual master cylinder with new rear wheel cylinders.
@@Trikekid84 Years ago I had a two barrel to one barrel adapter, sold (I think) by Trans Dapt, in case you think of going that route. The dual master cylinder is "a sound idea". I use K car ones on my old cars.
Wait your saying a 292 gets good fuel economy? In what world? I get about 4 mpg in my 80 k20
@@micahfrye8885 Well, in Canada, of course, where our gallons are bigger. (Small attempt at humor there - I feel your pain.) I once read a comment from a guy who said with a two ton (heavy, anyway) load on, he got 11 mpg from his 292. And with no load, he got 11 mpg. My 292 experience has been better, running through a 700R4 and a 2.73 rear axle. My concept of good fuel economy is outdated, but when I formed it, 20 mpg (Imperial gallons, 5/4 of US gallons) - so 16 mpg US - was considered pretty good. Mine has exceeded that while cruising. 4 mpg seems really low. Good thing gas is so cheap, isn't it?
@@stephenandloriyoung5716 that is pretty good considering I could never get more than 12.5 from a 300 i6 f150 that had a 5 speed, 4wd, and 3:55 gearing. Another great engine for it's time.
I would love to have that engine in a Chevy C/10 Blazer. From 1969 up to 1987
Friend of mine has a 2wd 78 blazer lowered 6" with the 250 i6. Great truck, but his engine has issues too. Needs rings and valves seals I think.
Really interesting! I just bought a 1958 Apache 3800 dump truck with a 235. It starts, runs, drives like a top haha, even the dump is strong. Lots of lifter noise, sounds a bit like a diesel. I am trying to decide what to do, I think I’ll keep it original.
Do a valve adjustment, I have a video on that, hopefully the cam is ok but that was the issue with ours. Just one bad lobe.
Great video!
Awesome car ! Cool video of the rebuild hope it’s still running good !
Runs great! Carb has a lean spot still but besides that it runs smoothly. Might switch to 10w40, oil pressure drops on a long trip but only when it's hot hot.
Runs great! Carb has a lean spot still but besides that it runs smoothly. Might switch to 10w40, oil pressure drops on a long trip but only when it's hot hot.
i had a few novas with the 6's 230's 250's the 230's use the same piston as the 283 v-8 i even had a pontiac 215 6 it use the same pistons as a 265 v-8 makes me think of good will hunting
Nice job!
Well done boys
One thing I didn't see, you should only tighten the 1st head bolt on the driver's side to 85 LBS. FT. on these 3rd gen Stovebolts, except for the 292. That part of the block is weak, and making that bolt 95 can easily cause the walls of the water jacket in that area to crack. It is hardly worth trying to fix that area, as the crack is often inaccessible. (Someday when gas engines are as rare as hen's teeth, that will be a different story).
I think I show that in a separate video but I did know about that. I think the 235 and the 292 have more material there, taller deck. But yes don't over torque that one. Thanks for watching!
@@Trikekid84 Yes, the 235, 292, and the 261 do indeed have more in that location.
Same as the 250? Jesus I'm glad I saw this
In Canada, the Pontiac had a 261 c.i.d, a bored out 235, using Chevy motors and wasn't a wide tracking U.S Pontiac, which had Pontiac motors.
261 was a truck motor in U. S
Nice!👍😎
love the edit
My 63 Belair inline 6, that I've owned since 1999, has gone from a 5 qt to 6 qt oil change.
How about yours? Did it change too?
I have always changed my own, and suddenly it has grown another quart's worth of capacity. I am stumped.
@@Todd-o8n that is odd, most inline 6s this size take 6 qts. Mine takes 5 last time I changed it.
@@Trikekid84 Imagine MY surprise at this turn of events.
I was lucky to have the extra quart as I was doing my truck too, but had to get the extra quart later for the truck.
I daily drove a 63 Biscayne 6 banger from 1990 to 99, but got the Belair and parked the 'Cayne. It's always been 5 qts with the filter, but is now 6.
Reality appears to be flexible. 🫨
@@Todd-o8n maybe your dip stick tube is loose and pulling out? Tap it down until you feel it seat.
@@Trikekid84 Thanks, but I've done that.
great video , did you install a new harmonic blancer ? if so where did you find it? i have the same car and engine , and cant find a blancer no where . Thanks
@@BustedKnucklesBuildsTexas yeah, mine was old and cracked, I got mine at rock auto I believe.
@@Trikekid84 Thank you !! I will try there 👍
Thank You !
great... bravoo
I have a ‘67 Camaro inline 6, anyone have tips on where to start with it? It doesn’t even turn over
You can oil the cylinders and break it free. But it won't last too long after you get it running, usually when that happens it's just really hard on the rings after that. Worth fixing though!
I'm currently rebuilding my 64' belair inline 6! Where did you get the parts at? Also what did you use to clean the inside of the engine?
The machine shop cleaned the engine and provided most of the internal parts. The gaskets, cam, and lifters were from rock auto. Valve covers and lifter covers I found on eBay. And everything else we re-used like rods and the crank.
Let me know if you need help finding any parts.
@@Trikekid84 How much did it all cost you?
@@brandonmitzel I think the machine shop charged us $800-1000, can't remember exactly, but that was with all the parts we needed besides the dress up parts and paint. The bad cam lobe snowballed into a full rebuild. I had fun rebuilding it and you don't see any 6s at car shows which is another reason we kept this engine, and it was cheaper overall.
In order to tighten the rockers you need to rotate the crankshaft to put the next lifters on "neutral" position before setting the screws, right? Isn't it a problem since it's gonna spread the camshaft lube outside?
You can set both rockers at the same time as long as you are on the compression stroke. I rotated the engine a lot trying to figure out things and I can't see how there would be any cam assembly lube still on the lobes, but it hasn't failed.
@@Trikekid84 Thanks, man! My camshaft went loose from the gear and moved toward the block. Totally mess. Just bought a new camshaft and was trying to figure out how to tighten the rockers without moving the engine, which would remove the lube from the cam.
@ 3:43 that was a bat!
Just seen this comment.. your right. Ive watched this video about 8 or 9 times now.. never noticed until I read your comment.
What air cleaner is that? Been having trouble finding one that fits the single barrel carb on my 230
I found it at AutoZone out of all places, edelbrock.
love your video! I am hoping to get your opinion on something. I have a chevy 350 that I want to freshen up without machining. I specifically want to replace the main and rod bearings to increase engine longevity. So regarding the rod bearings, can I just replace them, do the clearance checks, and retorque them without having to change the rod bolts/nuts? Its just a stock, average HP late 70' engine that is just a daily driver. Thoughts on this?
Yup, stock rod bolts are better than some aftermarket, and are plenty strong. I wouldn't worry unless it's 400hp+.
@@Trikekid84 thank you very much!
@@jtp682 If I were you, and you are not boring the cylinders, I would AT LEAST run a dingle-ball hone on a drill through the bores, and replace the rings. It's very cheap insurance that the engine will have fresh compression, won't burn oil, and will last MUCH longer, than if you don't do it. A dingle-ball hone is cheap as heck, and new stock replacement rings don't cost much either. For the time and very little money you'd have invested, it would be WELL worth it.
One doesn't even need to know where TDC is on any of the cylinders to lash the valves. I use the "E.O.I.C." (E.xhaust O.pening, I.ntake C.losing) method to lash valves...
Rotate the engine in it's normal direction of rotation until the exhaust valve just begins to open, the intake lifter is now on the base circle of the cam, lash the intake valve on that cylinder. Now rotate the engine again until the intake valve fully opens, and stop rotating it when it just gets past max lift and starts to close, now the exhaust lifter will be on the base circle, lash the exhaust valve. Proceed the same way for the rest of the cylinders..
You do NOT have to know, and follow, the firing order for the particular engine you are working on to lash the valves this way, but if you do know it, and follow it, there will be much less manual turning of the crankshaft to get the valves in the correct positions.
I like the vice grip garage method. Even better than my method.
@@Trikekid84 Whatever works the easiest for you. 🍻
What temperature and amount of time in the over, for the crank gear?
Oven*
I don't remember, 15-20min at 400f should do it.
The inline chevy timin doesnt use a chain. Awesome
It'll never wear out of phase with the crank! Which also helps the timing always be correct. Ford did this on the 300 as well which makes them last a long time. Not sure why other engines even use chains.
Where can I find the throttle linkage and plate?
I'm not sure, get ahold of 12bolt.com maybe or search on Rock Auto.
mains are torqued front to back or back to front heads center out
@@deakin2880 why does that make a difference?
good engines
hey my grandfather left me a 1981Chevy C10 custom deluxe inline 6..... I want to keep the original motor but try to get a lit more power wat would u suggest
Cam for sure, not sure how much it would help to raise the compression, but if it needs pistons you can look into it. That engine should have hardened exhaust seats so that should be good. I'd say just a cam and a 4 barrel intake and carb. I've seen 2barrel efi setups, that would be cool. Headers would help too. Basically anything that you would do to a 350. If you keep the stock pistons, look into how much you can mill the head. Also, look up lump porting the head. The stock head bolts go through all the ports and is killing flow. Hope this gives you some ideas.
Clifford Performance
Looks like you painted over the grime on the oil pan.
No that's clean jb weld haha.
Ok. I would TIGed it or bought another oil pan, I have literaly years of experience using JB weld. Trust me after a little while that epoxy will pull away from the metal.
@@DYLAN102001 I could not find a new pan anywhere, after blasting it was full of holes so we welded in a patch and there was a few tiny drips so I jb welded it and it's been good for 4 years. Will it last? Not sure but so far so good.
@@Trikekid84 Craigslist my man. I have 2 whole motors from some chevy K5s. Currently rebuilding one for a generator, that how I came across your video.
Tried jb weld to fix a timing chain off a small block. Scrubbed and roughed up the surfaceon both sides, started leaking around the weld. Wish I just bought a new one. Also tried fixing a head on a Buick 3300 motor, same thing. Hopefully it stays leak free.
If it leaks you know who to call.
i have a 235 with hydro lifters but it has the old tube that the rockers ride on its a 1953. can i change the head to a rockers like the one in the vid
I'm not sure, the 235 head and valve cover look wider than mine. You would have to check pushrod length.
@@Trikekid84 thanks man!
What manual did you use for this rebuild?
Chevrolet Inline 6 Power Manual by
Leo Santucci.
@@Trikekid84 Roger, thank you! I'm going to be rebuilding one for an engine swap.
@@5oclock_Charlie Awesome! The reason we rebuilt ours instead of a 283/327/350 swap was becuase you just don't see inline 6s at shows anymore.
@@Trikekid84 yup.. all SBCs and BBCs at car shows now, can make 2hp per cubic in on the 292 as well.. I'm gonna stick it in a very commonly LS swapped Chevy truck.
Im very interested, what is your channel. Doing a truck 250 6 cyl now. Want to add a few performance parts. Thanks Bill C
All terrain tv, I have a whole bunch of videos on the build. It's all stock though. You could get a lump port kit, mill the head, get a cam, headers, and a 4barrel intake with a 390cfm carb. Might only make 200hp but would probably have decent torque. I just love these engines because they are simple as heck and you don't see them too much anymore. The i6 has come a long way. I hear the new trail blazer engines like boost more than a LS in some cases.
Are parts for these hard to find. I have a chance to get a 250 complete for 200. I just don't want to start rebuilding and not be able to finish. Good job on this one BTW.
I found everything I needed, they make performance parts too, just that I couldn't find a oil pan but the 230 in the cars were not very common, the 250 was more common so you can probably find everything you need.
@@Trikekid84 awesome. Thank you.
See if you can get a 292. The 250 is a dog beyond modification.
If you have something to use it in . I remember back when they were common. The Chevy 6 cylinder engines were all good. The 250s are simply one of the best engines ever. Maybe not if you're into racing. Although my brother and I each had nova with one. They were both fast enough to get in trouble.
Beers were cold
"cracks beer"
hi guys, is that a two on one barrel ?
Single barrel Rochester B. Still has a lean spot when you accelerate, we have just been driving around it. Probably an acceleration pump problem but I can't figure it out. Would like to try a 2 barrel.
thanks so much.@@Trikekid84
Hey is ur vac advance on a manifold vac or a ported
Plugs into the base of the carb. That would be ported I believe.
@@Trikekid84 if base of car that's full manifold vacuum
How much for the build
I think we have $900 in the engine and then maybe $50 in paint, bolts and gaskets that's about it. The alternator, radiator, ignition parts were all replaced before the cam went out.
@@Trikekid84 from where did you get the parts
@@jeancadet5862 the machine shop for most of it. Hastings rings and bearings are what I remember, not sure the brand in the pistons, felpro gaskets. Summit racing, jegs, or rock auto. We actually got the cam and lifters from rock auto.
What city are you what do you charge for 235 on a 55belair
I would bring the engine to your nearest rebuild shop. Would be cool to see one in a 55.
Is this similar to the L6 in the 1965 Chevelle? My first car.
Yup. Probably the same thing, unless you had a 194.
@@Trikekid84 Now my boys have LS swapped miata's... crazy.
@@semuhphor boys vs men, just kidding man, Miatas are fun.
Buzzen a half dozen cool car just came across this video
Engine looks great. Bit u sure could pick some better tunes. That shit will give brain melt lol
Sounds like I melted your brain then. 😂
Not all scientists wear white coats.
Respect 🙏