I’m sorry, but there is no closed cell spray foam I know of that will yield R-16 let alone R-19. Most closed cell spray foam installers will say it is about R-7 per inch but they forget to tell you that the real, long term aged R-Value is around 6 per inch. I do think it is a great insulation for metal buildings. It seals the best, filling all the nooks and crannies around the ribs; prevents moisture from getting at the inside surface of the metal panels; adds strength to the structure as you mentioned and has the highest R-Value (but not R-16 to R-19). If I was to build a metal building, I would try to budget for it.
@@derekvanderhoop6550 I can tell you from experience this is far superior than any other insulation per square inch bar none. A hot summer day walking in the building will be substantially cooler than outside even with a darker color roof. I would urge you to show your proof of your observations.
Hey Tony, I have been looking at your buildings and considered buying one for future build. 25 years ago my Dad and I built a 40' x 60' building using red Iron construction i.e. 20' spacing of main I beam supports with Z channel purlins running lengthwise every 4'. The building has pex tubing in 6" concrete floor heat with 12 ft garage doors on each end and has been an amazing building. Winters here have an average temp of 20-30 deg. sometimes dipping to 0 with summers 70-80's and the building is very comfortable and efficient. My question is if you guys ever use vinyl faced fiberglass insulation installed in sections prior to screwing the sheet metal to the building? For those that aren't familiar it comes in 3'-6' widths and 3"(R10) - 8"(R25) thick and it's rolled over roof and side walls in a continuous length with vinyl side facing inside the building with the seams taped with matching vinyl. Looks nice, deadens sound and is effective for cold / heat & moisture barrier. The heavy I beam supports and Z channel purlin construction had no problem handling the thick insulation and sheet metal being screwed down to the Z channel and I was wondering if your tube frame structures can as well? If so any examples or references. Thank You, Joe
Say you pay for R36 worth of Fiberglass batt, if you run the faced fiberglass over the purlins, and the unfaced batt between the purlins under your metal, then your total R value will be R17. The reason is that where the Fiberglass passes over your purlins, you only have R 0.25 due to the lack of air pockets. Then the purlins radiate heat/cold into your building. If you put the rigid insulation over the faced fiberglass batt where it is most compressed, say keeping the rigid insulation only 1 foot wide centered on your purlin, you will get an effectively much higher R value with minimal additional cost. Adding 2 inches of rigid foam, 1 foot wide directly under the metal will double your R value up to the R value of your installed Batts. ie R17 to R34. There are significantly diminishing returns after 2 inches of rigid foam on top of your purlins due to the thermal conductivity of the screws. The next stage of insulation is to use stainless steel screws which have 1/3 the thermal conductivity of carbon steel screws. However that introduces a lot more labor because the stainless steel screws are not hard enough to self drill into the purlins. So during erection when putting up the side panels and roofing you first need to drill the hole, then you can set the screw, ie inconvenient. In addition to that since your building effectively grew 2 inches in every dimmension, you have to increase the length of the roofing and siding to account for the thicker insulation. There are a bunch of articles on this at "The American institute of steel construction", ie the United states standards body for structural steel in buildings.
Another option is to put the rigid foam over all of your fiberglass batts, then tape it so you get that vapor barrier similar to spray foam, then put the steel over that. One of the advantages of rigid insulation over spray foam is that it makes it much easier to replace dented panels later.
What about wrapping the outside with foam board or spray foam. I would want the metal building not to look like a metal building anyways. Then putting up a siding of some sort.
@@daniellawless92 if you have your metal building insulated please show us your informed example. We have had this insulation now for going on a year, and is far superior than any other option that is offered. But if you have it installed please provide examples for our customers.
@@bigbuildingsdirect also you yourself in the video said you don’t know much at all about the foam board insulation. You should give it a try. It’s amazing for all weather conditions. And will save you a lot of money. One other pro is that if for some reason you do have a small leak in a roof or something and you have spray foam insulation, it can hide the problem by locking in the water for a long period of time before you ever notice. By the time you do notice it could have already done substantial damage. Foam board insulated just as well but will not lock in and hold moisture in a leak scenario, you will notice it and be able to fix it before it damages the metal beyond repair.
If you use spray foam, do you still need a moisture barrier? Will it still sweat between the metal and foam, or does it eliminate the sweating completely?
Most metal building manufacturers will not warrant the building if you use spray foam, as it traps any residual moisture against the metal...creating corrosion.
Would depend on multiple factors. Ie: thickness of foam etc. mine is 2” is thick I don’t have any moisture at all. No matter what messing with the structural integrity of a building can void warranty, but it’s worth it for sure.
I’m sorry, but there is no closed cell spray foam I know of that will yield R-16 let alone R-19. Most closed cell spray foam installers will say it is about R-7 per inch but they forget to tell you that the real, long term aged R-Value is around 6 per inch. I do think it is a great insulation for metal buildings. It seals the best, filling all the nooks and crannies around the ribs; prevents moisture from getting at the inside surface of the metal panels; adds strength to the structure as you mentioned and has the highest R-Value (but not R-16 to R-19). If I was to build a metal building, I would try to budget for it.
I should have made clear no closed cell spray foam I know of will yield an R-Value of 16 to 19 at 2” thick.
@@derekvanderhoop6550 I can tell you from experience this is far superior than any other insulation per square inch bar none. A hot summer day walking in the building will be substantially cooler than outside even with a darker color roof. I would urge you to show your proof of your observations.
Hey Tony, I have been looking at your buildings and considered buying one for future build. 25 years ago my Dad and I built a 40' x 60' building using red Iron construction i.e. 20' spacing of main I beam supports with Z channel purlins running lengthwise every 4'. The building has pex tubing in 6" concrete floor heat with 12 ft garage doors on each end and has been an amazing building. Winters here have an average temp of 20-30 deg. sometimes dipping to 0 with summers 70-80's and the building is very comfortable and efficient. My question is if you guys ever use vinyl faced fiberglass insulation installed in sections prior to screwing the sheet metal to the building? For those that aren't familiar it comes in 3'-6' widths and 3"(R10) - 8"(R25) thick and it's rolled over roof and side walls in a continuous length with vinyl side facing inside the building with the seams taped with matching vinyl. Looks nice, deadens sound and is effective for cold / heat & moisture barrier. The heavy I beam supports and Z channel purlin construction had no problem handling the thick insulation and sheet metal being screwed down to the Z channel and I was wondering if your tube frame structures can as well? If so any examples or references. Thank You, Joe
Great video. Cost difference? Spray foam is crazy right now.
Cost difference breakdown coming soon!
Spray foam is too high for the small R value
Buildings sweat when they are nervous too.
very informative!
Does the roof need to be ventilated if an air tight insulation is installed?
I’d suggest either windows, or some type of roof ventilation for sure.
Say you pay for R36 worth of Fiberglass batt, if you run the faced fiberglass over the purlins, and the unfaced batt between the purlins under your metal, then your total R value will be R17. The reason is that where the Fiberglass passes over your purlins, you only have R 0.25 due to the lack of air pockets. Then the purlins radiate heat/cold into your building. If you put the rigid insulation over the faced fiberglass batt where it is most compressed, say keeping the rigid insulation only 1 foot wide centered on your purlin, you will get an effectively much higher R value with minimal additional cost. Adding 2 inches of rigid foam, 1 foot wide directly under the metal will double your R value up to the R value of your installed Batts. ie R17 to R34. There are significantly diminishing returns after 2 inches of rigid foam on top of your purlins due to the thermal conductivity of the screws. The next stage of insulation is to use stainless steel screws which have 1/3 the thermal conductivity of carbon steel screws. However that introduces a lot more labor because the stainless steel screws are not hard enough to self drill into the purlins. So during erection when putting up the side panels and roofing you first need to drill the hole, then you can set the screw, ie inconvenient. In addition to that since your building effectively grew 2 inches in every dimmension, you have to increase the length of the roofing and siding to account for the thicker insulation.
There are a bunch of articles on this at "The American institute of steel construction", ie the United states standards body for structural steel in buildings.
Another option is to put the rigid foam over all of your fiberglass batts, then tape it so you get that vapor barrier similar to spray foam, then put the steel over that. One of the advantages of rigid insulation over spray foam is that it makes it much easier to replace dented panels later.
Thanks
how did you spray it black?
Spray foam company did it with a machine
What about wrapping the outside with foam board or spray foam. I would want the metal building not to look like a metal building anyways. Then putting up a siding of some sort.
I'm ready for a Big Building...How do I get one?
Give us a call. Shoot us an email at tony@bigbuildingsdirect.com
Spray foam averages at R5 per inch. 2” spray foam at most would be maybe R11 nowhere near R15
@@daniellawless92 if you have your metal building insulated please show us your informed example. We have had this insulation now for going on a year, and is far superior than any other option that is offered. But if you have it installed please provide examples for our customers.
@@bigbuildingsdirect also you yourself in the video said you don’t know much at all about the foam board insulation. You should give it a try. It’s amazing for all weather conditions. And will save you a lot of money.
One other pro is that if for some reason you do have a small leak in a roof or something and you have spray foam insulation, it can hide the problem by locking in the water for a long period of time before you ever notice. By the time you do notice it could have already done substantial damage.
Foam board insulated just as well but will not lock in and hold moisture in a leak scenario, you will notice it and be able to fix it before it damages the metal beyond repair.
If you use spray foam, do you still need a moisture barrier? Will it still sweat between the metal and foam, or does it eliminate the sweating completely?
Most metal building manufacturers will not warrant the building if you use spray foam, as it traps any residual moisture against the metal...creating corrosion.
Would depend on multiple factors. Ie: thickness of foam etc. mine is 2” is thick I don’t have any moisture at all. No matter what messing with the structural integrity of a building can void warranty, but it’s worth it for sure.