All about City Trousers: A Talk with Julien Scavini
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- Опубліковано 3 лип 2024
- In this new episode of Sartorial Talks, Hugo Jacomet and his guest, the French tailor Julien Scavini, focus solely on classic trousers, from the casual chino to more sophisticated models like city pants with pleats or Gurkha trousers.
Visit Scavini's trousers online shop (shipping worldwide) : pantalons-scavini.fr/en/
00:00 : Introduction
01:42 : The classic chino : pantalons-scavini.fr/en/s/123...
05:50 : The city pant for summer and all seasons: pantalons-scavini.fr/en/s/281...
09:17 : The two pleats trousers: pantalons-scavini.fr/en/29-tw...
11:30 : The one pleat trousers: pantalons-scavini.fr/en/15-on...
15:22 : The flannel / tweed city trousers for winter: pantalons-scavini.fr/en/s/260...
21:08 : The Gurkha pant: pantalons-scavini.fr/en/35-gu...
25:23: A summary of the different styles
28:28 : What style according to your body shape? - Навчання та стиль
Can I just say how much I appreciate Julien making an effort to speak in English for us non Francophone. It takes some courage to sit in front of a camera and be recorded speaking a foreign tongue. Bravo!
I learned a lot. Merci!
No doubt Julien will appreciate your comment. Cheers from Bourgogne, Hugo
I am from Cameroon where English and french are the two dominant languages so i have no issues understanding his English with french accent👍👍 A bad trouser has the potential to kill an outfit.Thanks for the video @Hugo.
You are very welcome my friend. Bonjour à mes amis du Cameroun ! Hugo
Julien's comment about having a wide range of trousers is spot on. Once I have selected my trouser for the day, it indeed forms the foundation of my outfit. Thank you Hugo for providing such quality content. You have provided supreme guidance as I aspire to build the wardrobe of a gentleman. No rigid rules, just suggestions that show one how to express his personal style. I really like that you stress both style and comfort.
Thank you very much Douglas for your encouraging comment. All our best, Hugo
Scavini is fantastic! I hope to be able to visit his shop one day in Paris. Trousers have been a bit forgotten about in the upper end of the ready to wear segment - especially a broader, classical style. His ‘one pleat’ trouser is a masterpiece in this regard.
Thanks Brian, I concur that. You can of course order online as he's also shipping worldwide. Cheers, Hugo
I have been waiting for this video to be made for years! Everyone is talking about shoes and suits and hats and watches but nobody is talking about trousers!
It's good to see them finally getting some love
A lot of love in this case! Cheers, Hugo
Incredible, I was thinking the same. This was a great conversation about the topic!. greetings from Chile.
@@lorenzoleongutierrez7927 Thanks Lorenzo. We like Chile a lot with Sonya (we spent a full month in Santiago and Valparaiso in 2016). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Dear Hugo, Its a beautiful surprise know you an Sonya were in Chile. Im Happy you liked the country. Im writing from province about 500 km to the south of Santiago (Chillan). Just starting my Journey in the sartorial world and for this, I absolutely appreciate your post, talks and generous guidance. A big hug , Lorenzo.
@@lorenzoleongutierrez7927 A big hug to you and your family! Hugo
Trouser with multiple pleats and attached with side adjusters are timelessness and classic one.
Wow... first off, thank you Julien for speaking English! You are well understandeable! And then I have to say, I visited your online shop and was positively surprised, not only by the styles, but by the prices as well! Certainly not cheap, but attainable! Thats something everyone in a "western" country can work towards and afford. Not "just like that", but it is fair and achievable! Thank you so much for that!
Always happy to see a new episode from you, Hugo
Thank you sir. Hugo
Great interview!!! Had to watch, full through, it was so captivating! Loved it.
Many thanks George! Hugo
i went down a strange but good rabbithole and i clicked on this video, and immediately i can tell this dude is a trouser/fashion expert. love it
Definitely visiting Scavini in Paris and grabbing a couple of pair
Even though I mostly buy a thrift stores and charity shops, I found this video very useful in outlining the various styles and level of formality for different trousers. Lately I have also been interested in wearing the waist higher, and there was lots of good advice about this. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much for this video! It's the best that could happen to my Sunday evening!
That's a very sweet and encouraging comment Frédéric! Hugo
Absolutely love this channel. No one else has a in depth video like this on pants. Thank you for this very in depth informative video.
You're very welcome Trever! And many thanks for the kind words. Hugo
I could understand the interview perfectly. It was delightful and interesting
Great video! thank you very much, especially to Julien. We really appreciate his effort to speak in english.
Best regards
I agree, he did a wonderful job. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo I finally had my first bespoke dress shirt ordered today here in my city from watching your videos over the years. I’m now looking forward to ordering some Scavini trousers. Many thanks mon ami. Martin in Canada.
I undertstood Mr. Scavini perfectly. Please tell him we extend our appreciation to him for making this effort for the audience. Chapeau!
Thanks for this indepth talk. The guest was very insightful. As an American, to learn the various cuts and names, adds richness to my style I am learning the history and theory behind it. Much to learn and I have added your channel on my list. Thank you!
Excellent and informative discussion between two experts in the industry. THIS(!) is what is so desperately needed if men of all ages are to improve their sartorial skills and begin a renaissance of fashion , style and personal improvement. Chapeau , Hugo et al.
Thank you, Hugo, for this interview. I learned a lot.
Our pleasure my friend. Hugo
Excellent, Excellent Episode!
Thank you very much! Hugo
The textures of the (trouser)materials are only outdone by their lovely colors chosen. This was a very satisfying exploration of the subject. Thank you again!
You are very welcome Henry! Hugo
Thanks for introducing me to Scavini! I am building my classic wardrobe and I’ve been trying to build an inventory of suppliers. Thanks, Hugo!
Loved this topic. Well done and thank you very much.
Pleasure ! Thanks for watching, Hugo
What a great and charming interview. As somebody who loves classic style I always feel we do not talk enough trousers.I think Scavini will have a new customer in me very shortly.
Thank you Tomaz. Scavini is a great guy: humble, knowledgeable and extremely engaged in his work. And his work on trousers is simply remarkable, all my best, Hugo
Great episide with a nice gentleman,,,thanks Hugo for your effort and all information,,,love to you and Sonya from Cairo.
Many thanks dear Nader. All the best, Hugo
this might be a little odd, but hugo's outfit in this video is absolutely perfect and it has been in my mind since i watched this video probably over a year ago. absolutely love it all. just had to say
Wow I love this guy’s energy and dedication to trousers and his work is just beautiful. Some fine trousers in classic style are exactly what I have been lacking in my wardrobe. I will be giving Julien’s online store a visit.
I agree Martin, Julien's energy is wonderful and I can assure you he's a great professional also. His online store and his ranges of trousers are magnificent yet affordable. Cheers, Hugo
Another great conversation. I love your passion for fine clothing. I don't have a deep pocket, but I do what I can to dress decently. You provide great info for people like me. Thank you.
You are very welcome David. And you prove that being decently dressed and elegant is not only a matter of means (you have no idea how much I agree with this). All my best wishes, Hugo
A very informative presentation. Thank you!
You are very welcome my friend. Hugo
Great video! I have been interested in Scavini for a long time and this video sealed the deal for me, I will definitely be ordering some pairs now
Thats' a great idea. Any feedback would be appreciated! Hugo
"Aaaabsolutely" amazing episode!
Merci Luc! Hugo
Superb videos. I enjoyed watching
Thanks a lot! Hugo
These pants look absolutely fantastic! And I like that he has a variety of different cuts and especially that he offers pleats. Definitely going to check out his website!
Thanks Mike! Hugo
Thank you for such an informative and entertaining episode. I’m looking forward in obtaining a nice single pleat trouser from Julien.
Hugo, great video - especially the English with "le fantastique accent français" is très entertaining. I learned a lot about trouseres now. When I am in US I always look for the pleaded or even double pleaded Chinos. That is for me casual elegance. Greetings from Germany
Intelligent, informative, and illuminating. Well done.
This is a wonderful reply to receive. Thank you, Hugo
For a very minimal investment (and clothes are an investment) nice trousers, whether chinos or tailored blended material, plus a fitted shirt, makes all the difference to the wearer. Outwardly, the style looks effortless and very personable.
Mr Jacomet is correct when he says this is the first step in the sartorial journey.
Another great Sartorial Talks. Thank you very much. I direct all customers to your channel.
Stay safe.
Many thanks David for your kind words. All my best, Hugo
Came to hear all about trousers. Stayed to listen to French men trying to parse through American terminology. Loved this
Well done Hugo! Nice talk. I am a huge fan of people like Julien. He reminds me of Tomasz Miler and his Miler Meanswear brand. Young and very talented ☺️
Cheers to all of you!
Many thanks Piotr for your nice message of encouragement. Cheers, Hugo
🤔 I really enjoyed this because I always get to learn from people that really know fashion from the inside. One of my biggest take away was that as a man how important it is to have enough or lots of Trousers in your wardrobe for options of wear. Whether to match a certain look or fabric style they all adds to great options. When I heard your guess mention this I smiled. Because for me I have Lots of Dress Trousers and often I find myself staring at what Trouser to wear, then I get a shirt and rest to go with it.
😂😂 i can also relate to this my friend. All my best, Hugo
Outstanding video gentlemen. I am looking forward to getting one of these. :)
Many thanks Ariel ! Hugo
He did very well speaking English. My French is terrible so once I can understand and find the meaning, it's perfect.
I agree my friend, Cheers, Hugo
Very interresting interview and after seeing this i think about bying a Scavini Trousers ..
Lovely to hear 2 French talking English.. greetings from Germany
Thanks Frans for your encouraging message! Hugo & Julien
Great video, lovely man Julien and knowledgable! And fantastic English
Many thanks! Hugo (and Julien)
Nice episode.
Thanks my friend, Hugo
After watching this video I could resist and bought 2 pairs of trousers. Delivery in the US was very quick. The quality is fantastic. Love my new Scavini pants. Will definitely visit them next time I'm in Paris.
Thank you Ricardo for your kind words and for your feedback. Very useful for all of us. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, you look fantastic in your beige striped shirt and necktie. Thank you Julien for showing your range of city pants. I LOVE Gurkha pants!!
How much we love seeing this. Les français qui ne parlent pas anglais, tordons le cou à ces idées reçues. Elegance brought to you in two of the greatest languages, French and English. Well done for this episode.
Thank you very much sir. Hugo
Very enjoyable episode of Sartorial Talks; I've been debating where and when to get some trousers and this is helpful. I'm certain I will be progressing to high rise and pleated trousers (pants!). I'll be looking at Julien's website :-) Hugo and Sonya, thanks.
Tony
Withe great pleasure Tony! Best, Hugo
I agree give flannel a chance. I have grey flannel trousers I wear during winter and I love them.
I can relate to that! Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo and Julien! Loved this episode - trousers are so overlooked and yet they are the work-horses of a man's outfit. And, yes, middle-age 'beer belly' comes to all of us eventually, even if we were always slim! If I had money I would definitely get myself a pair of the S4s (love those side adjusters) or the Gurkahs (so stylish!). One small point to Julien - in English we pronounce Gurkha to rhyme with the pronoun "her", not as 'gorka'. Can I also say I loved your striped shirt (Hugo), especially the colour (and the colour of your trousers too) - and also how the delicate blue colour of Julien's pocket square complimented his understated brown jacket. I love these talks you do with people in the sartorial world (the one on socks was fascinating!), Please thank Julien for speaking English for us (yes, his accent his strong, but it was very charming and quite understandable). Best wishes from England.
Thanks a million Glyn for your kind words of encouragement! Very much appreciated, Hugo (and Julien).
Wonderful episode! Trousers are what got me really thinking about dressing up well. I'm quite short so when I had a pair of custom-made high-waisted trousers, that was the first time I felt like I looked quite good ha! By the way, Gurkhas are gaining a foothold in Asia too from what I can tell. Yeossal has Gurkhas. And, I had my tailor friend make me a pair of Gurkha jeans last month which is my favorite casual pair as of the moment.
Thanks Raph. And you are right, Yeossal's Gurkhas are splendid. Cheers, Hugo
Excellent discussion and quite a tutorial. Julien is really on to something in keeping the variety of cuts season to season while changing the fabrics. This, imho, is how you build a clientele. I’m particularly interested in trying the S3 model. I’m still looking on the website but I don’t see the rise measurement. Hopefully, it’s closer to 13”. Thank you gentlemen.
Another wonderful episode, Hugo! I’m also a little on the larger side, especially in my thighs and buttock. So while my waist fits a size 42 trouser, I always have to go up to a 44 to accommodate my legs. I have found that I prefer pleated pants because it tends to camouflage my large legs a little better. My favorite pair have side adjusters and I wear them with braces. I also prefer trousers with turn-ups because the extra weight seems to keep the material straighter. Thank you for your amazing content!
Thank you Joe for your contribution. Cheers, Hugo
I have the same situation. Another thing that you might want to look for are trousers with a high rise, with thicker legs the high rise can lengthen the silhouette
Definitely a place to visit if I ever find myself in Paris
For sure! You can have a sneak peek online also. Best, Hugo
Someone only making fifteen dollars an hour right now, I appreciate your trousers being somewhat affordable! I still get most of my stuff at the thrift store, but these are a good "save up for them" trouser option
One feature of trousers that I like that you don’t see that often is a lining in trousers. It facilitates putting them on and off as well as preventing bunching and binding. It undoubtedly add cost but I always liked it
I love the way Julian is speaking, truly genuine.
Is this ironic?
@@PierreLarquey why?
@@elcondebarbas because while Hugo speaks a very good English Julian is having a difficult time finding his words
@@PierreLarquey Yes, it is true, but I mentioned the way he speaks, not if he has good English. I am not from France and I find it nice to listen to English with a strong French accent
Julien is a genuine person and I personally find it admirable to bother to do this show in English even if he does not fully master the language. Hats off! Hugo
The comment about expanding beyond chino is worth while
"understand the rules/principals", "Wear what you're comfortable with" and "trust you're eyes" these are M. Jacomet's greatest gift to the world!
I'm blessed by being reasonably thin and with a flat stomach so I can wear all kinds of fronts, every sort of pleat and every sort of rise. I'd highly recommend experimenting with a types. The only caveat being that a double pleat must be a reverse or inward pleat for me.
Thanks Brian for your encouraging words! Cheers, Hugo
Hello Mr Hugo, if I may, I can tell you that the term 'Khaki' has its origins from the occupation of the British empire in India, Now Bangladesh and Pakistan. The British officers wore a uniform of that beige/off-white color similar to a very pale brown. This very color was called 'Khaki' in the Hindi. The Gurkha pants come from the Gurkha Regiment from Nepal and Bhutan, which was later adopted by the British army officers. The Gurkha pants have their origins from the Jodhpur pants which was a creation of the 'Rajputs' of Jodhpur, Rajasthan, India. The Rajputs were inspired by the British tailored pants and converted their 'Churidar' pants to the Jodhpur pants for ease of horse riding. The Churidar was a mix of the creation of Mughuls and Rajputs, unfortunately that is a subject of debate among them
Hope you find it helpful. Cheers from Bangladesh.
I forget to add, the Khaki is also the color of the uniform of the Indian Police in all states of India till today, except for the state of Kolkata. Colloquially the police in India are called 'Khaki' steming from the color of their uniform. You may search for images of the uniform of the Mumbai(Bombay) Police. 🥂
Of course it helps a lot. Many thanks my friend, Cheers to you, Hugo
The name for the color "khaki" comes from Urdu, derived from Persian, for the word for dusty.
Some very nice styles in the samples shown
Yes Greg, and some very nice models on the website (a lot of them). Cheers, Hugo
I would love to see more of Julien's coat, it looks fantastic.
I just found out it is called a "Maubourg Jacket" in case anyone else is curious.
I love this man's francais
Excellent Épisode in French, and surely magnificent in English!! Thank you very much Hugo & Sonya
Mais en français vous nous raconter beaucoup plus d'anecdotes.
En fait les deux chaînes se complètent !
Merci Hichem. Hugo
Brilliant!
Thanks a lot Andy ! Hugo
I am following a aducation for image stylist for men, that is my passion and I am super happy. Cheers!
Cheers Davide and all our best for your career! Hugo & Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you so much! Ciao
I like the idea of side adjusters but when I had them on a MTM suit trousers I didn’t enjoy them as much as I thought I would. Braces are just much more attractive for getting a nice drape to trousers. I rarely wear a belt anymore
I have watched this many times now….. the Gurkha is just so incredible
Does Savino provide online services?
Yes Matt he does at Scavini.fr
Beautiful Gurkahs indeed!
Former Indian Army Chief of Staff Field Marshal Sam Manekshaw once stated that: "If a man says he is not afraid of dying, he is either lying or he is a Gurkha."
Inspirational men from which to take style advice.
I love your talks. Nowadays with instant access to apparel, we take for granted craftsmanship, detail and history behind items.
Merci for bringing this amazing institution to my attention.
You are very welcome Lee, and many thanks for this inspirational quote. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks.
You're very welcome Reza! Hugo
We need a brand database or something! I find it so hard to find brands in europe, even though it is the pinacle of it. Loved this video!
Dear friends, we wrote a couple of books (The Parisian Gentleman, The Italian Gentleman), our friend James Sherwood wrote "Savile Row" and Simon Crompton wrote a Sartorial travel guide. So I believe the "database" exists in these books; Cheers, Hugo
Fabulous video, merci beaucoup! What a wonderful guest.
Here's a fun video idea: "How To Match Your Sport Coats and Trousers" -- the Internet forums are full of drama and fighting about how to match certain colors,
e.g. "Which sport coat looks good with navy trousers?" Some "internet gurus" claim that Navy trousers cannot be matched with any jacket, and that navy trousers by themselves are destined to look like orphans without a matching suit jacket...
I think it's time for Sartorial Talks to crash that party :D
I really like this idea. Thanks for your reply. Cheers ! Hugo
Very lovely trousers. Very stylish indeed
Many thanks!
Greetings from ny....a great discussion....hugo your attire gets 2 thumbs up..for myself i am comfortable wearing pleats and flat fronts... i wish you and sonya an enjoyable week..cheers
Many thanks Kenneth and cheers to you! Hugo & Sonya
I love gurkha's.❤️👖📸
Very stylish indeed Alex! Best, Hugo
I agree that chino and kakhi are largely interchangeable in the US. The big difference is that we call trousers pants where pants refer to underwear in Great Britain
p.s., Julien has a wonderful accent and his English was very good :-) Merci.
I agree, his accent is charming! Hugo
You have a really great interview manner, Hugo - and Julien comes across as an interesting and charming man also. And he makes beautiful trousers. I especially liked the moment where you said "and if a man is not comfortable in his trousers..." and left the rest to our imagination. En plus, je viens d'acheter une maison en Bourgogne - on sera peut-être voisins. Mais Bourgogne du sud, moi - et vous peut-être plus au nord? Thanks for the show and the advice. Tom (writing from Annecy).
Merci Thomas. Oui nous nous sommes Nord de la Bourgogne (près de Chablis). Amicalement, Hugo
The acent is charming as is Julien. Love the pants/pantaloons. Would love an in shop fitting, as I am hard to fit. Best of luck.
I'm sure Julien will be encouraged by your comments. Thanks and cheers ! Hugo
I enjoyed your video and you are not the only one that prefers bracer. I love them and seeing you in them. I hope you do a video on braces.
Thanks Walter and we'll tackle the subject sooner than later. Best, Hugo
Lovely trousers
I concur that Felix! Hugo
Dear author do you know how long I was looking for a reference for bespoke dressing ? By accident I found your channel and I wish I could express how happy and pleased I am. I want to say Thank you and thank you and thank you @sartorial talks
Thank you Armin! We are so glad you found us. You can also, I suppose, be interested in our blog (parisian gentleman) and our books (the Parisian Gentleman and the Italian Gentleman). Warm regards, Hugo & Sonya
I feel bad that I cannot speak French...but I can rock in Spanish! Well done, gentlemen! Muy bueno!
Don't feel bad my friend, I can't speak Spanish! Gracias! Hugo
Can anyone recommend more websites where you can order trousers like this? > can choose length. With Side adjusters and pleats.
Another great and informative video, thanks.
I believe there are numerous websites for trousers, but Scavini is for sure among the best in terms of value. You also have Neapolitan makers like Pomella, but they are much more expensive. Cheers, Hugo
Light wool fabric for summer, we call it fresco in the United States.
Trouser are always my bane. I have big thighs and struggle to find the right fit. These look beautiful, i am trying to move away from belt loops as I don't like cutting myself in half, so will be looking at this website.
Also both your English is amazing. Do not worry about it, the accent is lovely to listen too.
Thank you Alexander for your constant support. Let you be the first Scavini customer in the Falkland islands 😂😂! Cheers my friend, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS once I have my wedding out of the way next week I have many items I need to purchase for the summer coming.
@@alexxfreedom All our best wishes for your wedding my friend, Hugo & Sonya
Hugo, you are right - it is time to change to something more elegant than just simple double pleaded Chinos - I will check out how to get Julien's trousers ... Best regards also to Sonya
I'm glad you agree Christian. Greetings from Bourgogne ! Hugo and Sonya
Cher Monsieur Jacomet, je vous remercie enormement pour m'avoir fait découvrire les Pantalons Scavini, ils sont vraiment exceptionels et je en ai deja 3 pairs, et donc aussi merci Monsieur Scavini pour votre travail...Est-ce-que vous avez jamais pensé de faire un interview avec Mark Cho de L'Armoury? Je trouve que une discussion entre vos points de vues serait vraiment interessant!!!
Bonjour Alessandro, je connais bien Mark (nous sommes tous les deux ambassadeurs pour l'école tailleur d'Antonio Liverano à Florence), mais nous n'avons jamais eu l'occasion d'organiser une discussion pour cette chaine. Excellente idée au demeurant. Amicalement, Hugo
The work Khaki comes from Urdu meaning "sand colored". It came into fashion from the desert camouflage uniforms of the Indian military. In the US today it can mean both a color and a type of pants.
I'd love to know how Cifonelli and the Italians have cut your suit trousers Hugo. Love your channel, cheers.
It's bespoke my friend, so each of them have their own style. But personally, I like them mid-rise (that I call "natural waist" for me) with no belt loops. I always ask for both side adjusters and buttons for the suspenders. Generally I favour flat front, but I also have pleats, especially on my striped "gangster" suits. Cheers, Hugo
Fascinating, thank you so much. I would love to know, how/if could they be adjusted for a female.
Dear Eva, I'm afraid not, because of the size of the fly. Cheers, Hugo
Me thinking in my brain “he’s going to say we call them pants, and everyone across the pond will have a nice giggle.” 😂
I came back to this video after about 5 months. Great overview, but it neglects my favourite sartorial detail on trousers which is a kissing pleat.
Thanks for making the effort to tell us. Cheers Brian ! Hugo
Hi Hugo. Thanks for your content. I identify with your comments at the end. I would like to be able to dress well without causing others to feel awkward. I think perhaps when people sense you are comfortable in your own skin/clothing then they are put at ease also. Style is when the feathers match the bird, or when the clothes fit the man. My struggle is knowing what sort of man I am! P.s. What brand is that shirt? It suits you.
Thanks Alec for your interesting comment (I love the feathers/bird comparison). This shirt is a bespoke linen shirt by Fiorenzo Auricchio (D'Avino Napoli) with a linen fabric by Carlo Riva. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, I like the collar of your shirt very much, and a nice tie, a pair of Oxford maybe better than loafers.
Much appreciated, thanks for watching. Hugo
Interesting.. see I have a bit of a belly, and was thinking high rise would be better for me... but if it will slide down.. I don't want. Thought the purpose of a good tailored trouser is that it won't slip and wouldn't need suspenders.
Julien is charming :D