Half a dozen other videos on replacing the master cylinder and everyone else skipped from removing the nuts to having it out. I needed to see how to get the rod out of either the plunger or the sensor. Thank you for showing that!
PS you can make up a release tool for the push rod using the cover of a ball point pen. This would be similar to the fuel filter release plastic tools you can buy at any auto store.
1st you didn't disconnect the cluch pedal Safety Switch and push rod before removing the master cylinder from the firewall. The push rod locks into place but is the last thing you put in after the Master has been installed. The push rod with the plastic bushing should be installed on the pivot arm pin and then reinstall the clutch pedal safety switch. With the cap off push on the clutch several times to make sure all the air is removed. Top up the fluid to the proper amount and your done.
Had to go digging around for that piece of tube but I THINK it's a 3/8 OD and 1/4 ID. If I remember correctly it went to a Harbor Freight Brake Bleeding kit. Hope this helps!
My 06 mustang clutch is intermittently sticky and stiff, even hard to get in gear sometimes, replaced the slave and master, vacuum bleeding and all. Still doing it. I gave up.
What makes it even more fun is that fluid is super slick. Did you make sure that O-ring is seated flat in that Master Cylinder? I ran across that same issue before, 20 minutes and a gallon of sweat later I found that O-ring was fighting me the whole time.
For some reason on my 98 s10 i can't really see were that rod is for the clutch because theres this plastic plate that covers the wires, i have a feeling im going to have ro remove that to access that rod to disconnect it so i can put in new clutch master
oof, yeah I've never taken one out of an S10 but I'm not surprised the word wires came up. Whatever you do, don't upset the wires in a chevy lol. I'm kidding, although I wonder if those are the wires to the safety start (cuts power to starter solenoid until the clutch pedal is depressed). Best of luck to you!
@@atownda_realesttv5585 Ah, I had to watch this again to see, yeah I didn't see very many good shots of that. If you're talking about that retaining hole (looks kinda like this at the end -------o) it should just pull off, it'll be tough but if you have a wide flat head screwdriver you can usually get the pedal to separate from that retaining ring. If you look at 4:55 there's little tiny black pieces (Retaining clips), and if you look at 8:52 right next to my hand you'll see the pedal and a knobbed...tapered piece of metal with the green washer on it. That's what connects together, IIRC I used a little forked tool called a "auto trim panel removal tool" if you look that up on amazon you should see what that tool kinda looks like. But working that ring back and forth with a bit of patience seemed to do just fine without breaking anything.
Did you get it? If not, I hate to say it but it might be time to introduce that thing to the garbage can. Sounds to me like it got corroded into place, couldn't hurt to blast it every couple of hours with some penetrant. Just keep in mind if it is indeed that bad, there might not be much saving that tube since it may have corroded through.
@@TheFenderman I have a 1991 7.3 idi it shifts hard and I'm hoping this is it and it doesn't need clutch/tranny work. I changed the slave cyl and it didn't make it better. Fingers crossed
@@ryandelcourt4774 Interesting! I wonder if you have the ZF5 in it, if you do. I'm here to tell you, they aren't all TOO difficult to work on, they just require a bit of patience but with a manual trans like that it makes me think if it's "Hard to shift" with the stick then it could be anything from the syncros to the fluid. If it is easy to move the stick and the clutch pedal is all or nothing and makes the clutch "SLAM" the transmission into submission then it may just be a sticky master cyl valve causing the throwout bearing to do crazy stuff. Or, could be a bleed issue... it's kind of the "Parts Shotgun" with these friggin' things lol. Reliable as can be but boy they like some attention.
My truck won’t bleed right to save my life put a new clutch and clutch slave cylinder on it and bench bled it as best as I could and when I start the truck I can’t even put it into gear anymore
Half a dozen other videos on replacing the master cylinder and everyone else skipped from removing the nuts to having it out. I needed to see how to get the rod out of either the plunger or the sensor. Thank you for showing that!
Hey no problem! I’m always wondering if showing all that stuff gets boring or makes the videos too long. So, thank you for the input!!
@@TheFenderman the long boring stuff is the informative stuff, ill ride the last guys comment and say thank you for the video!
Well I certainly appreciate that! Thank you so much!
Nice work man! I'm about to take out the master on my 89' F 150. This helps a lot
Thank you! I hope it works out! Keep that ol one fiddy for as long as you can man! 💪
@@TheFenderman It did work! I tried your allen wrench punch trick to get the roll pin out haha - And I definitely will keep this thing forever
Right on!!! Glad to hear that!!!!!
Just got my first ever vehicle and this is helping a ton
Big thanks for the in depth install. This really helped. 👍🏻
Awesome to hear!! Thank you for watchin'!
Thanks sir!!!
PS you can make up a release tool for the push rod using the cover of a ball point pen. This would be similar to the fuel filter release plastic tools you can buy at any auto store.
Thanks great work ! Great video!
Nice work
Thanks!
1st you didn't disconnect the cluch pedal Safety Switch and push rod before removing the master cylinder from the firewall.
The push rod locks into place but is the last thing you put in after the Master has been installed. The push rod with the plastic bushing should be installed on the pivot arm pin and then reinstall the clutch pedal safety switch. With the cap off push on the clutch several times to make sure all the air is removed. Top up the fluid to the proper amount and your done.
Cool. You should make a video doing just that.
What size hose did you use to bench bleed back into the reservoir?
Had to go digging around for that piece of tube but I THINK it's a 3/8 OD and 1/4 ID. If I remember correctly it went to a Harbor Freight Brake Bleeding kit. Hope this helps!
Thank god for this video
Glad you found it useful!!!
My AMS/ Rhino pac, came missing the gasket the ring and the roll pin
Feel free to use this video to show them they F'd up! I hate when only half the parts show up... SMH
My 06 mustang clutch is intermittently sticky and stiff, even hard to get in gear sometimes, replaced the slave and master, vacuum bleeding and all. Still doing it. I gave up.
Noo, don't give up. I'm curious though, does it only do it while the car is warm/operating temp?
My hose is rock hard having a hella hard time putting it back on the tip aside from that everything else is on lol
What makes it even more fun is that fluid is super slick. Did you make sure that O-ring is seated flat in that Master Cylinder?
I ran across that same issue before, 20 minutes and a gallon of sweat later I found that O-ring was fighting me the whole time.
For some reason on my 98 s10 i can't really see were that rod is for the clutch because theres this plastic plate that covers the wires, i have a feeling im going to have ro remove that to access that rod to disconnect it so i can put in new clutch master
oof, yeah I've never taken one out of an S10 but I'm not surprised the word wires came up. Whatever you do, don't upset the wires in a chevy lol. I'm kidding, although I wonder if those are the wires to the safety start (cuts power to starter solenoid until the clutch pedal is depressed).
Best of luck to you!
@@TheFenderman when u were taking that rod off of the clutch pedal how did u get it off, kinda hard to see with it facing the opposite way?
@@atownda_realesttv5585 Ah, I had to watch this again to see, yeah I didn't see very many good shots of that. If you're talking about that retaining hole (looks kinda like this at the end -------o) it should just pull off, it'll be tough but if you have a wide flat head screwdriver you can usually get the pedal to separate from that retaining ring.
If you look at 4:55 there's little tiny black pieces (Retaining clips), and if you look at 8:52 right next to my hand you'll see the pedal and a knobbed...tapered piece of metal with the green washer on it. That's what connects together, IIRC I used a little forked tool called a "auto trim panel removal tool" if you look that up on amazon you should see what that tool kinda looks like. But working that ring back and forth with a bit of patience seemed to do just fine without breaking anything.
@@TheFenderman yup your sure right I just popped it right off, ty man!!
I can’t seem to get the pin out that holds the hose to the cylinder. I’ve tried everything!
Did you get it? If not, I hate to say it but it might be time to introduce that thing to the garbage can. Sounds to me like it got corroded into place, couldn't hurt to blast it every couple of hours with some penetrant. Just keep in mind if it is indeed that bad, there might not be much saving that tube since it may have corroded through.
Ty sir
No problem bud!!
@@TheFenderman I have a 1991 7.3 idi it shifts hard and I'm hoping this is it and it doesn't need clutch/tranny work. I changed the slave cyl and it didn't make it better. Fingers crossed
@@ryandelcourt4774 Interesting! I wonder if you have the ZF5 in it, if you do. I'm here to tell you, they aren't all TOO difficult to work on, they just require a bit of patience but with a manual trans like that it makes me think if it's "Hard to shift" with the stick then it could be anything from the syncros to the fluid. If it is easy to move the stick and the clutch pedal is all or nothing and makes the clutch "SLAM" the transmission into submission then it may just be a sticky master cyl valve causing the throwout bearing to do crazy stuff. Or, could be a bleed issue... it's kind of the "Parts Shotgun" with these friggin' things lol. Reliable as can be but boy they like some attention.
definitely needs bled more for sure still tons of air in that system.
its best to bench bleed the master clutch and slave at the same time and then reinstall into the truck. good content though!
What I need is a dadgum table vice!! Hahahaha I’m not getting any younger! Thank you for the awesome comments 🤘
My truck won’t bleed right to save my life put a new clutch and clutch slave cylinder on it and bench bled it as best as I could and when I start the truck I can’t even put it into gear anymore