How To Bleed A Hydraulic Clutch - Wrenchin' Up
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- Trouble bleeding your hydraulic clutch? Check out this video to see where the air bubble is, where it comes from and how to easily get it out. It takes about 3 1/2 ounces of brake fluid to get the air bubble out or the clutch master cylinder using this method. Once the system has been bled and re-installed in the vehicle, a gravity bleed of the clutch slave cylinder will finish the job.
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Wrenchin' Up with Jim Bates strives to deliver automotive technical information and ideas from manufacturers and engineers to interested technicians and enthusiasts on a weekly basis. A new video is uploaded almost every Wednesday.
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Twitter: @jimfbates
I've never felt so eager to want to comment on a video. This was probably the best how to video on cars I've seen as to a complete understanding of the what how and why. I've watched many of videos for wrenching advice and this one actually made me feel educated.
Hi- Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
Absolute pleasure to learn something new by professionals for absolutely free! With clear and simple instructions
Thank you very much
You’re welcome and thanks for watching and sharing your opinion!
I’ve watched 20 videos on clutch systems, bleeding, fluid change, and yours by far is the most informative. Thanks for the video, makes everything so clear now.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I’m glad the video helped.
THANK YOU!! My Husband had done this 20 years ago when he worked at the dealership and just needed a refresher.. he read the car manuals, instructions from his off brand part, none mentioned this, but he was certain the bench bleed was needed prior to install to remove air bubbles. I said let's youtube it! So thankful you made this video. This was exactly what he needed to help him with his 1989 Ford XLT Ranger.
You are welcome!! I'm glad the video helped (that's why we do them). Thanks for watching!
This is by far the best clutch bleed video I've ever seen
Hi - Thanks for watching! I'm glad you think so.
Problem solved! I spent a week on this problem, and this method fixed my issue immediately. Thank you!
It's been quite a long time since I've had the pleasure of being taught a new technique from the master! Thank you!
Hi Ian - You are most welcome and Thanks for watching!
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this is the best video I have seen on bleeding a hydraulic clutch thank you for putting on the internet
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching!
I watched countless videos on bleeding the system. I was struggling till I saw your tip on tilting the master back. Air came out right away. Thank you!!!!!!!
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching! I'm glad the video helped.
Hi Jim, i have been trying to fix and bleed clutch on my 2006 isuzu dmax for two days untill i found this video and it really helped me to fix the problem. Now i have the vehicle running again. Great video thank you very much.
Thanks for your kind comment and Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video. I parked my truck on a really steep hill and pushed my pedal about 20 times . It fixed my spongy pedal. You guys are awesome.
Actually. you are awesome for watching! I'm glad we were able to help, which is why we make these videos in the first place.
Ok where I live we have plenty of steep mountains so I’m going to try it . You removed the cap on the master ? Do you have to press the clutch petal gently so you don’t lose a lot of fluid. I would hate to get air locked on the side of a mountain 😊 Thanks
@@rq38hq55same question
Well thanks to your video I finally got my old 91 s10 clutch bled..I just had to take it out and bench bleed it at the angle you stated....This has been a struggle for me and have been putting it off for months, I spent my life working in garages and on junk and never had this much trouble....I had to come find your page so I could thank you...Thank you so much.......
Hi - Thanks for your great comments. I'm glad the video helped and your project went well. Thanks for watching!
Same here man! 92 f150 making me question everything I thought I knew about cars! I've changed clutches in semi trucks, rebuilt suspension, engines... You name it! But evidently I am a complete failure at the simple task of bleeding a clutch 😂🤣😂 I think trying this will solve it for me.
what do you have to hold at a angle? Have an 89 s10 nothing but problems. But new parts and they go bad way too soon. New fuel pump lasted less than a month! Replaced all components at engine mechanical then the hydrolic stuff goes bad!
Great video and very professional. I love how you easily explained everything in basic simple English for non-technical folks like me. Thanks for the education!
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching! I'm glad you like the video.
Unbolting the master cylinder from the firewall, tipping it back, tapping it on the side and moving the piston in and out similar to the video worked for me. I did this without removing it from the truck.
Thanks for the tip. What vehicle were you working on?
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates I fixed it on a1998 f 150 with allow to tip the master cylinder without disconnecting the fluid line. Easy!
Can u rebuild a slave cylinder for a 2007 sentra S.E.R spec v? And the box that the spring goes into wont hold the spring tight. How do I fix that problem?
Would jacking the front up of the vehicle quite high, while leaving the back of the ground do the same thing?
Sorry that should read, would jacking only the front of the vehicle up quite high leaving the back of the vehicle on the ground, do the same thing, tilt the master cylinder enough?
Excellent simple to understand and perfect description of how it works
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your opinion!
Thanks for the instruction. You saved me from nearly scraping my vehicle. Lifesaver!
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
Awesome video the best l ever seen. You expanded everything where anybody can understand it, and you showed all the components that works properly with a properly bleed clutch. Even gear lever. Showed how to exactly do everything clearly. Yall were like professional teachers teaching a class to students . Super grateful it helped so many people that didn't know what to do after trying everything. Thank you, thank you.
Hi - Thanks for watching!
Hello, very interesting and informative video. Thank you for taking the time to upload and show various samples of what’s going on with the bubbles.
Hi - Thanks for watching! You might be interested in this one too on hydraulic cavitation. ua-cam.com/video/jExcQjAjjv0/v-deo.html
I am surprised at how easy you both made it look and gave a great description of how it works! Thank you, I learned a lot in a short video.
Hi - Thanks for watching and for your very nice comment. I'm glad the video is helpful.
So that's why my slave cylinder didn't wanna bleed because the master cylinder always had that bubble trapped up there makes perfect sense great video and explanation on how the clutch hydrologic system works wth air bubble trapped in it and how to get them out
I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic, I just tipped my Nissan and it was fixed . Before that I bleed and bleed and still air in the fluid, thank you so much.
Hi Hans - Thanks for watching! I’m glad the video helped.
This video kinda reminds me of taking the "tests" while working at Advance Auto Parts, this has been a great help! Thanks!
Hi - Thanks for the nice comment and the memories (I think). Anyway, I'm glad the video helps. Thanks for watching!
This is great but what if you have hard clutch hydraulic lines and you can't remove the entire system from the truck? Nissan xterras... long runs and it goes up and down between the slave and master ....
Hi - Thanks for watching! That didn't come up in the interview, so I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch about that because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that should help. Their contact information is in this video's description.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates NO worries man, if anyone is reading this it ended up being the slave cylinder was jank, and needed to be replaced, once that was done, two master cylinders worth fluid and pushing fluid up from the slave cylinder (reverse fluid injection), worked amazing. Clutch pedal never felt better NO bubbles in zero seconds
I have used A vacuum pump and A cap that fits tight over the resivor with A brake bleeder bottle and held vacuum in the system for about 10min and wah-lah that works real good !!!
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
Question. When you remove the clutch pressure line at the Slave Cylinder is the connection a quick sealed connection so air does not enter the line? My guess it is like an air hose coupler fitting. I also think you should use the Phoenix brake and clutch tool to remove any trapped air bubbles by inserting the tapered fitting into the bottom of the Master fluid Orifice to force new clean fluid down into the slave cylinder and open up the bleeder screw to allow any air to escape befor tightening it up again.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Great question - so great that I must recommend that you reach out to Precision Clutch, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information. Their contact information is in this videos description.
Thank you, very practical n useful tip, I've learnt from you both here in country of Papua New Guinea...🙏🙏👍👍
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your appreciation!
This video just saved the day for me. Thank you!
Hi - You’re welcome, and thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
On older model Volvo semi trucks they are bled from the slave cylinder back through to the master cylinder . Use a windshield washer pump , attach line onto bleed screw of slave cylinder . Pump fluid until it overflows from the uncapped master cylinder and tighten bleeder screw .Install cap and tighten . On Chevrolet pick-up trucks it is possible to cross calipers , make sure bleeders point upward .
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
Depending on the master cylinder orientation couldn't you just jack the front of the car up? Or park it facing up a hill?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Some folks posted that worked for them.
Works great if you can remove the entire thing from the car. Most cars I know of seem to have metal lines and are not removable as a sealed assembly or are capable to be installed as a complete sealed assembly.
Hi - Thanks for your comment. Vehicles that allow for the master cylinder to be "tipped up" can use this procedure. Others that cannot will have to use different methods. Check the website in the metadata to see what they recommend for different vehicle configurations. Thanks for watching!
I’d like to see a video on how the typical line connectors work. Especially the big brass one which has no opening! Which was pictured briefly in this video. Thanks
Hi - Thanks for watching! Sorry for the delay in answering. I overlooked your post. The manufacturer has a vast library of videos that may be helpful. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
Sounds like a lot of work to me.....I just jack the front of the truck up and bleed normally. Sometimes you have to let the master cylinder "snap" back to get it to take in the new fluid but it's never been difficult if you ask me. I'm an aircraft mechanic and the older Cubs were tough to get all the air out....until you raise the back of the plane above the level line.....you can set the tail wheel on a chair and it bleeds out quickly and easily. Harley master cylinders can be tough too until you turn the handlebars to raise the end of the cylinder. My neighbor brought his jeep over because the clutch didn't work well....jacked the front end up and wala! bled right out and he's happy....now he won't leave me alone....hehe
Hi - Thanks for watching and for your great comment! What is the year and model of your truck so other viewers can try your tip too?
Thanks for the comment back! The latest was a 92 jeep wrangler...it was the clutch slave but it will work on any hydraulic system. If you don't let the master "pop" back the slave cylinder will not "reset" and you'll be there all day trying to figure it out. The important part is to get the filling port in the master to be higher then the other end. That will let the cylinder fill and the air to escape out. Otherwise the bubble can remain trapped and it will never completely bleed out. Sometimes, especially with the tiny master piston in Harleys, you can tilt it one way and bleed it a bit and then raise the other end and it will make it bleed more quickly and completely. The Piper cub I mentioned stumped a lot of mechanics and the first time I put the tail wheel up on a chair it bled right out for me. I flew that stupid cub with limited brakes for 2 years before I figured it out. In aircraft we pressurize the BLEED valve (with a pump type oil can.....we use 5606 oil in most small airplanes) and let the master backfill.....still won't work if the master is too low on the wrong end. I hope you had a very Merry Christmas and a happy New Year!
Exactly.. Some cars can't be bled first due to the positioning of the pedal in order to connect the master cylinder arm to the pedal (Can't be done under pressure)
What do you mean when you say you have to let the master cylinder (pop) back, or the slave cylinder will not reset?
@@randylegall2162 I've found that if the slave cylinder moves too slowly it will take the air bubble with it. Let it up quickly and it will not try so hard to follow it. It works...trust me....same with Harley master/slave
Well this explains why my clutch went limp a few weeks ago and I was only able to get it barely drivable in the parking lot. Guess the seals on the master went bad and let air in once the weather got cold.
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
Thank you very much for this very useful video..
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts!
So if my slave cylinder is horizontal, can’t i just Jack the front up to move the bubble?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Some people have said in the comments that this works.
Hi guys great video, you have shown a step by step how the clutch fluid works and also the air that travel in the line it's too often the books and the manuel do not show this at all I have watching so many video's but not beat you guys of make this videos thank you London uk I have vauxhall corsa.
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
How to keep air from getting back in master and slave cylinder when pre-bleeding? Before installation of the master and slave cylinder.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired I don’t have the latest information, so I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch about this as they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that may be helpful. Their contact information is in the video’s description.
Thank you sir. Your information is invaluable.
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Thank you for the tip, have been fighting this for hours!
Hi - You’re welcome and thanks for watching!
If I install a new Master Cylinder Your not supposed to insert the clutch pedal push rod until the entire system has been reinstalled.
It is the last thing you reinstall and it locks into place in the master cylinder.If i were to use this method of bleeding the air from a new master then do i need a special tool to releae the push rod after bleeding process and reinsert again as the last item you connect?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Great question, but I must suggest that you reach out to Precision Clutch for the proper guidance, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific procedures that can help here. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
Lovely video thanks for the support!
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Get the same results putting the car up on ramps. For instance if you want the piston end facing down put the front of the car on ramps and leave the back on the ground with chocks. Can do it in the car without unbolting anything. Works good and its how I've done it in the past.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment! You might be interested in the comment from "perfectionclutch" as well.
+Jim Bates Yep perfectionclutch has it spot on, different methods for different machines. By the way thank you for some really informative videos Jim :)
You are most welcome and thanks for watching!
Thank you so much this helped a lot.
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching! I'm glad the video helped.
GREAT VIDEO !!! I have a 94 ranger and 2 days ago my pedal started to get soft , Now my clutch isnt working at all ...the reservoir was dry ( forgive me, I'm learning as I go here ) do u guys think if I bleed the master ,the function will restore ??? Any help and insight would be appreciated..Just dont want to spend any unnecessary money ...ty in advance...And again , great video!!! I learned so much ty
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since long distance diagnostics can be difficult with a lot of typing back and forth, I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have an large library of vehicle specific videos and information on this subject. Their contact information is in this video's description.
This has answered a lot of questions. Thanks
Hi - Thanks for watching! I'm glad the video is helpful.
what did you use to stop the fluid from coming out of the bottom line where the connector that connects to the slave cylinder is. if you fill it up want fluid just run out the bottom if you don't have that connected to the slave cylinder.
Hi - Thanks for watching! The whole system remains connected. We're just trying to get the air bubbles to rise out of the system to the top.
In the case of the horizontal master cylinder, could you not just park the car/truck facing uphill and get a similar effect?
Hi - Thanks for watching! According to some of the comments for this video, this has been done successfully for some vehicles.
Thanks for the new thoughts. I'll try jack just the left rear tomorrow; and, hopefully I can get that last bit of air out.
Hi - You're welcome! I'll be interested to know how that works out.
With the rear axle on jackstands, the air in the throw-out bearing came immediately out.
Great - thanks for the update!
Great video! The trouble I'm running into is that my brake reservoir and clutch reservoir are the same, so I can't remove the reservoir/ pressure line. That means I have to use a funnel + tubing instead of reservoir + pressure line. This is doable, but then the problem becomes: how do you disconnect the funnel + tubing and then install the cylinder (which is full of fluid) without spilling fluid out of both ports? ... quite the challenge indeed.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific videos and information on this. Their contact information id in this video's description.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates They don't
Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist.
I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone else pressed the clutch pedal and found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues?
Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired and a bit behind the “latest and greatest procedures”, I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific videos and information that may be of assistance to you. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates Thank you so much Dad.
I have a 1991 F150. For the past year or more l have considerable difficulty, especially when first started, getting it into 1st or any gear, with grinding, etc.. Also diminished clutch travel.
It sounds like an air problem????
What do you think?
Hi - Thanks for watching! I could be, but I suggest that you check with Precision Clutch to be sure as they have an extensive library of vehicle specific information. Their contact information is in the video description.
I’m driving a Ford kuga 2013 model ecoboost…I had clurch problem decided to buy a new clutch kit but after installing the new clutch kit the clutch pedal does not truck back properly what could be the problem?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired for some time now, I seem to have developed a “rusty thumb”. So I really suggest that you contact Precision Clutch about your problem, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that may help. Their contact information is in the video description.
now what happens if your slave cylinder blew during bleeding the slave itself? is this a faulty cylinder, or did the mechanic working on it screw up?
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suppose it could be either but my guess (because you didn't mention the age of the vehicle or the slave cylinder) is that the slave cylinder was just worn out and needed replacing.
Do you put the line in a bottle of break fluid so it don’t suck air back in
Hi - Thanks for watching! Some methods recommend that. I suggest that you check with Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific procedures. Their contact information is in the video description.
does this work for all vehicles? would it work for a Honda element?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since that didn’t come up in the interview, I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch for the answer because they have a vast library of vehicle specific video’s and information. Their contact information is in the video’s description.
Can I bleed it without the trans in the truck? Or does everything have to be bolted together? I'm replacing the clutch in my 95 and I dont thing the slave is bad, just has air in it. Basically wondering if I can bleed it while its hangin in place
Hi Thanks for watching! You should be able to if the Master Cylinder is at the highest point. But I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch to be sure because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information on stuff like this. Their contact information is in the video description.
I need help, do i need to do this if my clutch pedal is hard and stiff? Its so tiring driving it.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired for a while, I seem to have developed a “rusty thumb” and find that long distance diagnostics is difficult if not impossible. Having said that, I would like to suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific video’s and information that you may find useful. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
I have a 2010 Mustang V6 4.0 5-speed I can't believe the system please tell me how! Oh yeah the reservoir is in the master cylinder.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch about this because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that will probably help you with this.
So how do you keep the fluid in the lines as you reinstall it?
Hi - Thanks for watching! We didn't have that issue in the demonstration, so I would like to recommend that you check with Perfection Clutch, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that might help. Their contact information is in the video's description.
Extremely useful
Hi - Thanks for watching! I'm glad it helped.
Why would air in the line only affect 1st and 3rd? I am asking because in my subaru i have trouble going into first and 3rd from a stop. I have to press the clutch pedal all the way down to shift into thos gears. I am hoping bleeding the system will do the trick. My clutch was replaced 20k miles ago. A reply would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Hi - Thanks for watching! This could possibly be transmission related as well. I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific repair and replacement information. Their contact information is in the video description.
Sooo, I liked this video a bunch but wasn't able to do what they asked. I was able to leave everything attached EXCEPT the reservoir! Unbolt it from the firewall and keep it high up in the air, high as it will go, keeping an eye on the fluid level and size/quantity of bubbles coming out, have an assistant pump the pedal(this method gives you WAY better leverage than if it was loose or clamped to a bench). The assistant should pump in different configurations, given stroke intensity, travel, and duration. Variations are a must, though my "go to" proved to be, press hard and quick in - hold it - count to 10 - slowly let it out - count to 10 - and repeat. This will get gobs of air bubbles out of the master. Took easily an hour+ to get majority of bubbles out, probably will have to do it again in a couple days - to let the bubbles to collect some more BUUUUUT my clutch is amazing now as. My truck did shift before, but often just barely, and reverse,,, sometimes it would fight you like the truck's life depended upon it.
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your interesting experience!
My frontier has a long, hard hydraulic line only. Seems it can only be bled on the vehicle thru the slave. Am having a hard time getting all the air out of the system. Tried the conventional way, reverse injection, and am still having problems. It's better, however the pedal returns only up until the last inch or so. Any suggestions?
Hi - Thanks for watching! I would like to suggest that you check with Precision Clutch on this because they have a vast library of vehicle specific procedures for things like this. Their contact information is in the video's description.
If not bled right will always have a grind i cant really get into gear, but not really a sponge feel nor a grind just an inconsistent of getting it into gear smoothly
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired now, I no longer have access to up to date reliable information to help with long distance diagnostics. For that reason, I would like to suggest that you contact Precision Clutch, as they have a vast library of vehicle specific video’s and information can help you with your project. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
Ive had problems for a month now but believe me or dont my problem is getting better lol. A few months ago i started having probs getting car into gear and reverse was an absolute no no. The car started to rev up badly before the engine caught up again and accelerated whilst driving and sometimes this must have been a nightmare for cars behind me. I checked the brake fluid tank and it was empty so i filled it up quickly. Now my clutch runs of the same tank! thats what i think has happened. Since i filled it back up my clutch pedal would become harder when i pumped it and i feel ive had air in the system. It juddered badly upon setting off etc until today. The car actually went into reverse and when i set off it didnt judder at all, just felt like it used to,instant set off. Ive bought a new clutch kit and csc cylinder just in case but il see what happends in next few days. If i did have air in the system its certainly took along time to pump out of the clutch lines etc. Are my symptoms definatly a sign of air in the system?
Hi - Thanks for sharing your experience. Since you didn’t mention what type of vehicle you have, to save time I recommend that you contact Precision Clutch (their contact information is in the video description) as they have a large library of videos that deal with clutch related problems and replace procedures.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates Sorry pal i have a GSI 2.0T Z20LET . Now i always thought clutcvh problems would get worse over time, not better lol. Went out today and it launches brilliant, before it used to rev up and not go anywere. Still does it sometimes in 2nd,3rd gear etc but not 1st. It goes into reverse now also when before had no chance.
My Toyota Tacoma clutch pedal sticks to the floor when I pressed it after the clutch was replaced can you help me ?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired and a bit behind on things, I would like to suggest that you check with Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that you may find helpful. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
out of all the cars/trucks i've had in the past years,none had a hydraulic clutch.my current truck is just an '86 chevy 1/2 ton short bed with a small block chevy engine in it.why did they do something like that at the factory.guess i'll need to do some google searches or check some information on here.
Hi - Thanks for watching and for your comment! Yes, hydraulic clutches have been around for quite a while and I'm sure you will find a lot of good (and bad) info out there in your search.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates thank you for replying to my comment,very much appreciated.after watching your video a second time,i just may stick with what's in my truck at present.it seems very easy to do and can't be any worse than having to bleed brakes.the information provided in the video is very helpful and i hope all who watch it,me included, will get something out of it.whether it be their first time or have done this before.once again thanks for posting your video.
Great presentation! I fixed my problem in my clutch. I am now confident about these clutches! Thanks
Hi - Thanks for watching! I'm glad the video helped.
Trying to bleed the clutch on my truck - all hydraulic but the master and the slave are double the size of what’s in the car. I’ve just replaced both the master and the slave, trying to bleed it up but having no luck. The master is mounted vertically and bolted under the pedal assembly with a steel line going to the slave, there is a bleed screw on the side of the master and a nipple on the slave. Which end should I bleed it from, if I were to remove it from the truck it will empty of itself of fluid
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since that didn't come up in the interview, I would like to suggest that you check with Perfection Clutch for this because they have a vast library of specific videos and information. Their contact information is in the video's description.
Iam Your Newest Subscriber Great Videos
Hi - Thanks for watching and Subscribing! I'm glad you like them.
I replaced my master cylinder and bled it with a bleed kit, the car was ok for 5 min then it wouldn’t change gear. Think this is the problem? Thanks for the video
Hi - Thanks for your comment. I suggest you check with the Perfection Clutch website for more information that may help. Their contact info is in the metadata below the video. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2002 Corvette with this problem. Do I need to disconnect the master from the slave to remove the air in the master, or can I just remove the master and tilt it as you suggest. Once I have it tilted correctly, when I pump the master will it remove the air even though it is still connected to the slave.
Hi Howard - I would like to refer you to the experts at Precision Clutch for the answer to your question. They have the experience needed here. The contact information is in the metadata below the video. Thanks for watching!
Jim, I bought a master cylinder for a 1997 Ford F-150. (Replace the clutch and slave cylinder last year.) Upon taking the old master cylinder off the truck, my son had to cut the hard plastic line in order to remove the cylinder. My son was not able to reinstall the plastic line. He tried heat, drilling out the line, still no luck getting that line over the connector on the master cylinder. So he replaced the whole line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder with a length of 3/16 rubber fuel line and 2 clamps. We bled the system until we got pure fluid out at the slave cylinder. " NO CLUTCH". Any ideas??? Is it possible parts of the plastic hose got lodged in the slave cylinder? ??? Note: I had not watch your video before this happen
Hi - Thanks for watching! I think the brake fluid pressure is expanding the rubber fuel line and not pushing the clutch slave.
I have a 1995 Volkswagen Passat GLX VR6 5 speed, the reservoir that feeds the Clutch Master Cylinder also feeds the Brake Master Cylinder, what is your advice for bleeding the Clutch Master Cylinder without disconnecting the brakes?
Hi Nidia - Thanks for watching and for your question! To get the best and up to date answer I recommend that you ask the folks at Perfection Clutch because they are really the experts on this. Their contact information is in the video description.
Got a gen 1 bronco 2 that doesn't disengage the friction plate I've tried pushing the pushrod but its rock hard.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Long distance diagnostics is difficult, if not impossible, so I suggest that you check a service/repair manual, make sure everything is mechanically assembled properly (clutch disc is not in backwards, etc.) and then check out the large Precision Clutch video library. They have vehicle and problem specific information there that could help.
(gravity bleed you said) you left the bleeding screw open for how many hours? also doesn't opening the bleeder screw get air into the system if clutch pedal is not depressed? I'm so confused.
Hi - Based on my experience gravity bleed drains fluid from the system and does not let air in unless the system runs out of fluid.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates thankyou very much.
watched your video could you raise the front end of the pickup up high enough to make the slave cylinder angles the opposite direction so you dont have to remove it from the vehicle?
Good Question Vance. I suppose it depends on how high and what might spill or fall out of the vehicle. I think someone said they parked on a steep hill and got the procedure to work. Thanks for watching!
Vance - for the Ford Ranger, the master cylinder passes through the firewall at about a 45-degree angle. The truck would have to be tilted up more than 45 degrees just to make the air bubble flow to the fittings. Even if this could be done, there is a wicked U-bend in the steel pipe that continues to the slave cylinder that can also catch bubbles. I think you would have to put the truck on its roof in order to force the air past the bend to the master cylinder.
Will give this a try. I've been fighting with the air in the line for 2 days with no results.
Would be good to see a fast way to do this with a hardline set up
Thanks for watching Joe - Let me know how it worked out for you.
Interesting thought - maybe Perfection Clutch will reply with some insight on this?
Hi guys first off great video! I have little knowledge of mechanics but manage. I have a little 94 Toyota t100 that sat for over a year. So getting it back in running condition I drain and replaced all fluids not knowing I was draining clutch master cylinder I loosened a line and bleed fluids. I could not get the line back on so I put a rag around to keep particles out until I had time to mess with it, which sat for a week. I finally got it attached and having issues with no pressure in clutch pedal. Hopefully this is easily fixed. Can you instruct me on what I will need to do?
The clutch pedal in my 2001 Dodge Neon offers no resistance at all. It just goes to the floor like a limp washcloth. I replaces the master cylinder and the slave cylinder and bled them thoroughly. It still does not engage. What else can I do besides junk the car? I am lost.
Hi - Thanks for watching! If you have already checked for a proper mechanical connection between the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder, I suggest that you check with the folks at Perfection Clutch. They have an extensive vehicle specific library of information that may help. Their contact information is in the video description.
What an amazing showcase. High quality, professional content! #subscribe
Hi - Thanks for the very nice comments and Thanks for watching!
Hoping 3rd times a charm!
Hi - Thanks for watching!
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates tried it 4 times now.....any other pointers?
Hi - Being retired, I probably have a “rusty thumb” ( if there is such a thing ) so I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific video’s and information that may help. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
As I have to put in a new master cylinder I can apply this method when it's fitted. At least I can maybe drive the car to have a mechanic bleed the slave cylinder afterwards or do I need to?
Hi - If there were no leaking problems in the system, it should have fluid in the line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder but I still recommend that you check the service or repair manual for your vehicle to bleed the system using the original equipment manufacturer's step by stem procedure. Thanks for watching!
Sir i m facing a problem in my skoda fabia 2009 . When i m phushing my clutch to change gear then r.p.m goes high every time. Any suggestion from your side.😐😐😐😐
Hi - Thanks for watching! Long distance diagnostics are difficult, if not impossible, to get it right. But I do suggest checking for codes, IAC, TPS and intake manifold leaks for starters. Assuming your foot is not still on the accelerator pedal during the shift.
Great video 👍
Thanks for Watching and for your nice comment!
You're welcome !
I have a 1999 Saturn that is hard shifting into low and reverse. This has been going on for eight years(my sisters car). Mechanic told her several years ago it was the clutch. A clutch doesn't go "out" for eight years. I replaced the master and slave cylinder two years ago with a pre bled system. Same problem with shifting into low or reverse and the clutch pedal feels soft. Did I get a system that wasn't bled properly? Any input is appreciated. Thank you.
Hi - Good question. Since you did not mention that shifting into other gears was a problem too, I am leaning toward a linkage or possibly transmission issue. But since I'm not an expert in this area I suggest you ask the folks at Precision Clutch about this and I'm sure they will be able to steer you in the right direction. Their contact information is in the video description. Thanks for watching!
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBatesThank you.
How do you do that when you have nothing but hard hydraulic lines like in my Frontier??
Hi - Thanks for watching! Great question. I recommend that you check with the folks at Perfection Clutch because they are the experts and have a vast library if vehicle specific videos and information on this stuff. Their contact information is in the video description.
Hey Jim I Have a 2000 GMC Sonoma 4.3l SL 2wd.
I Am Having One Heck Of a Time Bleeding The Slave and Master Clutch Cylinder.
If At All You Knew What I Kneed to Do.
I'd Say Thank You.
Hi - I'd like to recommend that you check out Perfection Clutch's website as they have a lot of vehicle specific videos that should help. Their contact information is in the metadata below the video. Thanks for watching!
I have A 95 s10 been bleeding for a week my pedal feels OK but the clutch isn't disengaging properly when I press the clutch new master an slave do you think your method will help me?
Hi Logan - Thanks for watching! Many people have tried this with success. it is recommended by the clutch manufacturer so I suggest you give it a try. Let us know how it worked for you.
I used this technique and the master cylinder bled fine, but after installation i have no clutch pressure at all. tried gravity bleeding, but nothing came out of the SC bleeder. any tips?
Hi - Thanks for watching! When you wrote that nothing came out of the SC bleeder did you mean no fluid or no bubbles in the fluid? I would also like to recommend that you check out Precision Clutch’s website because they have videos on installing and bleeding clutches on vehicles by year/model and can probably be of more help. Their contact information is in the video description.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates thanks for the response. no fluid came out. its a 90 f150 m5od. and i'll look at the website as well
Be sure to check to see if the master cylinder is bypassing internally if you haven’t already.
I've been trying to bleed my Audi a6 clutch for over a week. this is one thing I haven't tried, removing the master and tipping it. I did that with the slave. the strange thing is I can get full pedal by removing the slave cylinder, once it's installed the pedal is soft until near the floor. Im ready to give up soon, and I just did a motor and trans swap yet can't bleed a clutch..
+Kyle Dupont Hi Kyle - Tipping the MC seems to work well every where it's been tried. I hope it works for you. There may even be a vehicle specific video on Perfection's web site you could look at. Their URL is in the metadata. Thanks for watching!
+Jim Bates so I installed the whole line master and slave , my truck starts without the clutch, and won't shift into gear while on , but does while it's off , why?
Kyle, couldn't stop laughing when I read your comment, I know exactly how you feel. If I ever have to bleed another clutch hydraulic system again it will be too soon.
Great video mark mangano dependable auto wartburg tennessee 👌
Hi - Thanks for watching! I'm glad you like it and hope it helped.
If I place my f150 on ramps in a tilted driveway and press the cluch will that work?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Hard to say as I have not tried that on a vehicle like yours. I suggest you check out the Precession Clutch video library as they have a lot of vehicle specific videos on Clutch bleeding. Their contact information is in the video description.
so I had a clutch pedal that was all the way to the floor. couldn't shift gears. I unbolted the slave clutch cylinder but could not remove the rubber clutch line connected to the slave cylinder (the nut is pretty stripped). I did notice I could not push the piston in at all on the slave cylinder so I figure it is bad and I should replace it. so for the time being, I left the slave cylinder dangling. the next day, I came out and the slave cylinder piston is pushing in and out fine. it wasn't pushing in and out before. so I figure, maybe the problem is now fixed. so, I bolt the slave cylinder back on and start self bleeding it. however, I open the bleed valve and nothing comes out. believe it or not, I completely remove the bleed valve and still no fluid is coming out of the slave cylinder. the clutch cylinder fluid reservior is full. I did pump the clutch, many, many times (with the bleed screw crack 1/4 turn) but no fluid is leaking out of the bleeder valve. is my slave cylinder now clogged? or is the clog somewhere else?
Hi - Thanks for watching! The slave cylinder piston may be bypassing. I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific videos and information to help with the diagnosis and repair. Their contact information is this video's description.
well i hope i can fix mine this way. Just done a swap from a 85 T5 to a 02 T56 new master and 4th gen pedal and even after 1hours of bleeding the slave i can feel air in the pedal and i cannot spin the wheels when foot on the clutch.
make sense. my Master is exactly like the ford.
Hi - Thanks for watching! The procedure should work but I also suggest you check the Perfection Clutch site as they have videos on many, if not most, vehicles that might help you. Their contact information is in the video description.
i have a 91 Toyota MR2, does this procedure apply to all hydraulic clutch systems? the pedal goes straight to the floor no pressure at all.
+CBear Gaming - The procedure does apply to all hydraulic clutch systems but because of differences in master cylinder orientation, etc. you may want to go to Perfection's website (their web address is listed below the video) as they have a lot of vehicle specific videos for this procedure and maybe there is one for your vehicle too.
If the master is horizontal, why not work on it on a hill (w tires chalked) so you don't have to remove assembly?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Some folks have tried that with some degree of success. You could scan through the comments for their experiences if you're interested.
hi . my jeep Rubicon 2007 manual 6 gear 3.7 , has a problem if you press clutch it goes in gear but its not engaging or going in gear
Hi and thanks for watching! I appreciate your comment but there is not enough information there for me to understand the problem. When you press the clutch what goes in gear - the shifter or the transmission? What's not engaging - the clutch or the transmission gear selection?
Yea bro thats cuz of the pedal
What happens when you don't have a check valve at the end of the lower clutch line that attaches to the slave cylinder? The fluid would just poor out the hose
Hi - Thanks for watching! For the best and most accurate answer I suggest that you ask the folks at Precision Clutch. They also have a vast library of vehicle specific information and procedures. Their contact information is in the video description.
What about bleeding the vehicle at an extreme angle? I’ve got a 45* hill I could easily use to accomplish this.
Also, the bleed screw on my MR2 is about 6” lower than the slave cylinder itself. This can’t be good, can it?
I getting chatter in startup that goes away after a few minutes since I changed the master and slave out.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Check the comments for this video. Some viewers have tried this and reported success.
Wrenchin' Up with Jim Bates
I did, sir. Thank you.
Can you tell me, is chatter from the clutch on startup a symptom of air in an extremely long hydraulic clutch line? I drive an MR2 Turbo and, because it’s mid-engine, the line is very long. I’m experienced in bleeding techniques, but I suspect the bleeder being lowest in the system may lead to air in the (bleeder less) slave cylinder. Would that cause chatter on startup?
Edit: I should mention it shifts normally but this problem started the night I replaced the master and slave with new OEM/Aisen units.
Hi - Based on what I think I know about such things, I would think that the chatter would be there all the time, not just on startup if it caused by air trapped in the system. But again, I think the folks at Perfection Clutch would be the best resource here.
Wrenchin' Up with Jim Bates
Thank you, sir. I’ll call them
Would this be the issue on my car?
Hi - Thanks for watching! If you’re having the kind of clutch problems this video addresses, you could give the procedure a try and see if it helps.