good Video, just bought a new Astra and my clutch pedal went a bit low and then couldn't change gear, pulled it back level with the brake pedal and now it works fine, was able to drive it back to the garage under warranty for repair, hopefully it will be the master Cylinder and not the internal cylinder inside the gear box..
..... Been dealing with that for 4 years..... These Chinese parts just aren't good anymore You have to do all kinds of research to get a manual transmission to run right
If you want to make the repair last long then do the whole list. Resurface the fly wheel, change flywheel pivot bearing, clutch disc and pressure plate, new release bearings, fork and pivot pin and then both the master and slave clutch cylinders. Apart from the clutch disc and pressure plate set the rest are not expensive parts..you just put in the new ones instead of the old as you put it in back together. It becomes expensive when you do half repairs/replacement and problems crop up and need to take it apart again. The clutch cylinders on my 1998 model toyota suv started showing symptoms of failing clutch cylinders only this year after 26 yesrs. But i have also observed that other makes and model do have inherent slave cylinder issues probably due to being too close to heat source.
i have been working for myself about 35 years. the sign of a bad cylinder will have fluid on the inside running down the floor board. when replacing slave master cylinder fill it with fluid before installing then bleed it from the line as you pump the clutch pedal . it may take some time but it will finally work. thanks all.
@@dusty-ki5rhBench bleeding works for a more complicated setup, but there’s nothing wrong with leaving a bleeder valve open when installing a brand new clutch line or master/slave cylinder. You can simply pump the pedal by hand yourself (as there shouldn’t be any hydraulic pressure at that point), to get enough brake fluid to be sure that the cylinders are properly circulating fluid.
@@dusty-ki5rh the clutch *slave* cylinder and clutch *master* cylinder are 2 different components - they can both fail but the vid doesn’t explain the differences. The slave replacement is usually a much simpler, quicker +cheaper job
Hello, my clutch bite point is quite low, close to the floor. Every time i'm stopped at traffic lights and if i hold the clutch pedal down for some time the bite point gets even lower. So its better to keep it in neutral and also it shifts better when i double clutch. I have changed the clutch fluid and the slave cylinder. No visible leaks anywhere. What else could cause this?
Any update? It also depends on what car and powertrain you have, as different applications may vary. Some designs are also faulty/defective inherently, so you can only do so much to prevent wear and tear… I own a manual trans equipped 5th gen Chevy Camaro SS and Corvette C6, so I know the pain all too well. Until someone comes out with a true and tried patent upgrade, OEM is pretty much the only thing you can keep trying to replace, if it does go bad….
What if the clutch is super stiff after clutch replacement? Before I replant clutch the pedal wouldn’t be stiff and I could press to the floor to start the engine. After clutch replacement the clutch is super stiff and I cannot reach the clutch safety switch because of how hard it is. Edit: my car is a 2010 Audi S4, and I believe the clutch shares reservoir with the brake fluid
Hi apologies for the late response. If the clutch is super stiff after replacement on your 2010 Audi S4, and considering the clutch shares the reservoir with the brake fluid, the issue may involve air in the hydraulic system, incorrect installation, or a mismatched component. Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system to remove air, checking for proper installation alignment, and ensuring the right parts were used are recommended steps to address the stiffness. Managed to sort it out?
@@HonestMechanicChannel I haven’t sorted it out. I have already dropped the transmission 3 times and disassembled the clutch assembly 2 times. I already broke 5 slave cylinders. I can’t figure it out why the fck it keeps cracking my slave cylinders
@@jeremyocampo1529i had the same issue with my Z and it took me 4 mother fucking times dropping the tranny that my damn after market stage 2 clutch pressure plate was way too much for the garbage plastic slave cylinder that came in the 370z.....so I got rid of that horrible pressure plate..went to stage 1 clutch with a heavy duty aluminum slave cylinder and called it a day...I was stuck in my house for 21 days the last time before I fixed properly as it got expensive...$500 every time the tranny came out ..new slaves...but not knowing the platform I paid the price...haven't looked back ever since ...I think its ur god damn pressure plate my friend..I hope this helps
Yesterday I got stranded here on the left lane side of the road . When I was at full stop, my shifting became stiff and I was unable to shift while my clutch pedal slowly stick to the floor. Also when I step on the gas, RPM goes up and my car wouldn’t move at all. My engine still running. Is this a worn out master or slave cylinder or just pure clutch worn out? FYI I’m at 168K mileage right now and recently replaced my master and slave cylinder 2 mos ago. Thank u.
that happens because the clutch wore off same thing happened to my car i thought it was the transmission giving out but it turned out to be that i just needed a new clutch to be installed
My issue is a clunk noise when letting off the clutch starting the car or putting in gear and throwing it back to neutral, lets off clutch, clunk. When drive no noise, this happen after the clutch was broke in after changing to a new clutch
Hi, managed to get the issue sorted? The clunk noise you're experiencing when engaging and disengaging the clutch, particularly after a new clutch installation, could indicate an issue with the clutch assembly or related components. This might be due to improper installation, a misalignment, or a problem with the transmission mount or drivetrain. It's advisable to have the installation checked by a professional to ensure everything is correctly aligned and secured.
I drive a 95 mazda b2300 when im driving I cant down shift or if im in neutral coasting down a hill it wont let me put it back in gear till I almost come to a complete stop any thoughts ? Im gonna check fluid levels in the morning..
Hi my car clutch dosent work when i start it on mornning or after a long time .. im wait tell the motor warm up then the clutch works .. the mech chang the to clutch pumps and dosent work ... Any sugestions or solves fir my problem ?
My daughter just bought her first cheap car 2003 Kia spectra. So she's leaning how to drive a manual and did awesome until the pedal stuck to the floor. I had to hop in the driver's seat and manually pull the pedal up while giving it gas to make it home. The car only does this after it warms up a bit and it's a strange car to begin with, the clutch gets it's fluid from the brake reservoir. Fluid is darker also, I don't want my inexperienced daughter to pull on to the HWY and get T boned at 60 mph. So I will be replacing the master cylinder and replacing and bleeding all brakes since they use the same fluid.
Hi, Sorry to hear that. It sounds like the clutch pedal sticking could be due to a problem with the hydraulic system, especially since it shares fluid with the brakes and the fluid is dark. Replacing the master cylinder and bleeding the brakes and clutch system is a good approach to ensure safety and proper functioning of both systems.
I have an 09 ford focus 5 speed. When I have the clutch pedal fully depressed I cannot get the car in gear. While I am trying to get it into gear the car also moves forward a little bit. Like the clutch is still engaged even though I have the pedal all the way down. I can eventually get it into gear with some effort, but it does not feel good doing so. Once I am moving I have no issues shifting, It feels completely normal unless I am trying to shift while I am stopped. Any ideas?
My clutch pedal squeaks when pressing and letting go of the pedal even when the engines off. Id describe it like it almost feels like the hinge is crusty
Hi, yesterday my car gear wasn't shifting and felt hard, especially 1st and reverse and the clutch was too soft when i about to shift i heard some grinding noise do you think its my clutch master cylinder or clutch or anything els ??
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
good Video, just bought a new Astra and my clutch pedal went a bit low and then couldn't change gear, pulled it back level with the brake pedal and now it works fine, was able to drive it back to the garage under warranty for repair, hopefully it will be the master Cylinder and not the internal cylinder inside the gear box..
..... Been dealing with that for 4 years..... These Chinese parts just aren't good anymore You have to do all kinds of research to get a manual transmission to run right
Got one from autozone it was junk
absolute nonsense. Work on european cars in the UK all the time and they are the simplest types of transmission to repair and work on.
If you want to make the repair last long then do the whole list. Resurface the fly wheel, change flywheel pivot bearing, clutch disc and pressure plate, new release bearings, fork and pivot pin and then both the master and slave clutch cylinders. Apart from the clutch disc and pressure plate set the rest are not expensive parts..you just put in the new ones instead of the old as you put it in back together. It becomes expensive when you do half repairs/replacement and problems crop up and need to take it apart again. The clutch cylinders on my 1998 model toyota suv started showing symptoms of failing clutch cylinders only this year after 26 yesrs. But i have also observed that other makes and model do have inherent slave cylinder issues probably due to being too close to heat source.
I am a mechanic and ur the best that found before in the tube
i have been working for myself about 35 years. the sign of a bad cylinder will have fluid on the inside running down the floor board. when replacing slave master cylinder fill it with fluid before installing then bleed it from the line as you pump the clutch pedal . it may take some time but it will finally work. thanks all.
@@dusty-ki5rhBench bleeding works for a more complicated setup, but there’s nothing wrong with leaving a bleeder valve open when installing a brand new clutch line or master/slave cylinder.
You can simply pump the pedal by hand yourself (as there shouldn’t be any hydraulic pressure at that point), to get enough brake fluid to be sure that the cylinders are properly circulating fluid.
@@dusty-ki5rh
the clutch *slave* cylinder and clutch *master* cylinder are 2 different components - they can both fail but the vid doesn’t explain the differences. The slave replacement is usually a much simpler, quicker +cheaper job
Hello, my clutch bite point is quite low, close to the floor. Every time i'm stopped at traffic lights and if i hold the clutch pedal down for some time the bite point gets even lower. So its better to keep it in neutral and also it shifts better when i double clutch. I have changed the clutch fluid and the slave cylinder. No visible leaks anywhere. What else could cause this?
Clutch Master cylinder
Same issue here
.... Gotta get Excellent quality parts Maybe a dealer slave put some grease on it you know nothing's a perfect seal...
Go with oem, not aftermarket.
Any update? It also depends on what car and powertrain you have, as different applications may vary. Some designs are also faulty/defective inherently, so you can only do so much to prevent wear and tear…
I own a manual trans equipped 5th gen Chevy Camaro SS and Corvette C6, so I know the pain all too well. Until someone comes out with a true and tried patent upgrade, OEM is pretty much the only thing you can keep trying to replace, if it does go bad….
What if the clutch is super stiff after clutch replacement? Before I replant clutch the pedal wouldn’t be stiff and I could press to the floor to start the engine. After clutch replacement the clutch is super stiff and I cannot reach the clutch safety switch because of how hard it is.
Edit: my car is a 2010 Audi S4, and I believe the clutch shares reservoir with the brake fluid
Hi apologies for the late response. If the clutch is super stiff after replacement on your 2010 Audi S4, and considering the clutch shares the reservoir with the brake fluid, the issue may involve air in the hydraulic system, incorrect installation, or a mismatched component. Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system to remove air, checking for proper installation alignment, and ensuring the right parts were used are recommended steps to address the stiffness.
Managed to sort it out?
@@HonestMechanicChannel I haven’t sorted it out. I have already dropped the transmission 3 times and disassembled the clutch assembly 2 times. I already broke 5 slave cylinders. I can’t figure it out why the fck it keeps cracking my slave cylinders
@@jeremyocampo1529i had the same issue with my Z and it took me 4 mother fucking times dropping the tranny that my damn after market stage 2 clutch pressure plate was way too much for the garbage plastic slave cylinder that came in the 370z.....so I got rid of that horrible pressure plate..went to stage 1 clutch with a heavy duty aluminum slave cylinder and called it a day...I was stuck in my house for 21 days the last time before I fixed properly as it got expensive...$500 every time the tranny came out ..new slaves...but not knowing the platform I paid the price...haven't looked back ever since ...I think its ur god damn pressure plate my friend..I hope this helps
Yesterday I got stranded here on the left lane side of the road . When I was at full stop, my shifting became stiff and I was unable to shift while my clutch pedal slowly stick to the floor. Also when I step on the gas, RPM goes up and my car wouldn’t move at all. My engine still running. Is this a worn out master or slave cylinder or just pure clutch worn out? FYI I’m at 168K mileage right now and recently replaced my master and slave cylinder 2 mos ago. Thank u.
Did you find out what was the problem?
Update
Happened to me twice in less than 10k miles. Two slave cylinders broken after fitting brand new LUK clutch kits. What was your problem?
that happens because the clutch wore off same thing happened to my car i thought it was the transmission giving out but it turned out to be that i just needed a new clutch to be installed
Hello I changed my clutch master nearly in 2 weeks. What could be the problem??
My issue is a clunk noise when letting off the clutch starting the car or putting in gear and throwing it back to neutral, lets off clutch, clunk. When drive no noise, this happen after the clutch was broke in after changing to a new clutch
Hi, managed to get the issue sorted? The clunk noise you're experiencing when engaging and disengaging the clutch, particularly after a new clutch installation, could indicate an issue with the clutch assembly or related components. This might be due to improper installation, a misalignment, or a problem with the transmission mount or drivetrain. It's advisable to have the installation checked by a professional to ensure everything is correctly aligned and secured.
Thanks for the info. Very helpful to know 👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
I drive a 95 mazda b2300 when im driving I cant down shift or if im in neutral coasting down a hill it wont let me put it back in gear till I almost come to a complete stop any thoughts ? Im gonna check fluid levels in the morning..
what if rpm shoots when clutch is fully pressed while driving?
Hi my car clutch dosent work when i start it on mornning or after a long time .. im wait tell the motor warm up then the clutch works .. the mech chang the to clutch pumps and dosent work ... Any sugestions or solves fir my problem ?
My daughter just bought her first cheap car 2003 Kia spectra. So she's leaning how to drive a manual and did awesome until the pedal stuck to the floor. I had to hop in the driver's seat and manually pull the pedal up while giving it gas to make it home.
The car only does this after it warms up a bit and it's a strange car to begin with, the clutch gets it's fluid from the brake reservoir. Fluid is darker also, I don't want my inexperienced daughter to pull on to the HWY and get T boned at 60 mph. So I will be replacing the master cylinder and replacing and bleeding all brakes since they use the same fluid.
Hi, Sorry to hear that. It sounds like the clutch pedal sticking could be due to a problem with the hydraulic system, especially since it shares fluid with the brakes and the fluid is dark. Replacing the master cylinder and bleeding the brakes and clutch system is a good approach to ensure safety and proper functioning of both systems.
I have an 09 ford focus 5 speed. When I have the clutch pedal fully depressed I cannot get the car in gear. While I am trying to get it into gear the car also moves forward a little bit. Like the clutch is still engaged even though I have the pedal all the way down. I can eventually get it into gear with some effort, but it does not feel good doing so. Once I am moving I have no issues shifting, It feels completely normal unless I am trying to shift while I am stopped. Any ideas?
Did you figure this out? My car is going the same thing.
Sounds like its the slave cylinder not releasing the clutch
Could also be the bushing on the shift linkage being lose(I had this issue)
My astra started doing it too Yesterday
I've have had new clutch and thurst bearing and it is still grinding can any one help❤❤
My clutch started acting this way today it goes all the way down and doesn’t come back up my car is a 2005 scion tc
How about a bad clutch slave?
My clutch pedal squeaks when pressing and letting go of the pedal even when the engines off. Id describe it like it almost feels like the hinge is crusty
squeaky+stiff r symptoms of worn out clutch *slave* cylinder
Hi, yesterday my car gear wasn't shifting and felt hard, especially 1st and reverse and the clutch was too soft when i about to shift i heard some grinding noise do you think its my clutch master cylinder or clutch or anything els ??
Thank u.. very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
I am the really bad case💀💀