Volvo Penta: No Cooling Water... | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- We continue our refit and start our engine for the second time since we bought Britaly. There was no cooling water in the exhaust, which we rectified with some threaded rod and a bit of vinegar.
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(You can see FREE schematic diagrams of Volvo Penta marine engines here: www.marinepart...)
We also soundproof our boat engine compartment with some heat-resistant sound insulation we bought online at a very good price.
This is a real time update of our refit, filmed a few days ago. We are no longer doing the daily vlogs:
A) Because we challenged ourselves to be doing those for the 10 days before we launched, before the rudder problems scuppered those plans and made 10 days turn into more
B) Because the videos were taking so much time to edit, export and upload that we weren't getting to bed until between 2 am and 4:30 am every day. When you're up at 7 am to start a very long working day, whilst living on the hard with a 6 month old baby, that isn't sustainable for very long!
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⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ brings you the sailing shenanigans of Chris (British), Rossella (Italian), and baby Emma (Britalian) as we sail our 1992 Bavaria 350. We make sailing vlogs of our cruising adventures and share any tips and tricks we can along the way. After all, sailors are one big family!
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Fair winds! 👍
Chris, Rossella and Emma
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#sailing #boatwork #refit #babyonboard
Hello world. If you need to re-rig a boat, you can buy rigging from land based riggers. We have an industrial supply place here in the states that sells rigging for towers, suspension bridges and antennas. It's the same 1x19 316 stainless cable and swages but about half the cost!
What is the name of the supplier please?
Here in Colorado we have Mile High Rigging, you should be able to Google "industrial rigging near me" and a few phone calls later, you should be sorted : ) if not there is always www.e-rigging.com but my local rigging shop is even cheaper than e-rigging so it's worth a few phone calls. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Great tip! Thanks 😃🙏🏻✌
Hi Chris, It is actually relatively easy to remove the distribution pipe for thorough servicing. With a carefully sized drift just tap the forward edge of the pipe and once enough appears at the rear gently twist and pull to remove. Some advise that the holes you mentioned once properly freed of crud can even be enlarged by a millimeter. Unless you know it has been done recently I would also recommend removing the exhaust elbow which just like the pipes you showed entering it will also be clogged. The method I used having scraped the accessible parts was to soak in brick cleaner as its the 'cheeks' that collect the crud. That anti syphon valve should have an annual service as salt crud could be preventing it doing it's job. None of which will prevent your launch but if ever you feel the engine is running a bit hot under load then those are the places to start. Thanks for all the efforts to show us your work. Cheers Bill
I agree with Colin about the exhaust elbow, if its old and corroded I'd look at replacing it. If they fail is can be detrimental to the engine
thank you to your Italian assistant wife and you, very helpful
If it were my engine, i'd pull the exhaust elbow, and check for any evidence of clogging. If it's not too bad it can be reconditioned by immersing in a bucket of 5 to 1 muratic acid, and water for 2 hrs, then thoroughly flushing with water, or better yet replace it, and keep the old one for a spare. Also a good idea to rod out the heat exchanger, and replace all gaskets, and seals. In my experience neglect of the exhaust system can destroy an engine, and it usually happens when you really need it to run. Good luck in your endeavors.
Love these vids. Also, so glad someone is telling people they don't have to buy marine labeled products that automatically cost at least 4 times as much as the same product not labeled marine.
Thank you! We love saving money and do so whenever we can. Buying products from non marine suppliers can often help achieve this. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 👍
Some really good advice for people buying their first yacht or already have that servicing your engine isn't just about oil and filters. Good video Chris.
Brilliant, Mate! Your enthusiasm is contagious. Your wife is lovely. And your baby is adorable. And your boat's fun too!
I bet you are almost glad that your launch date was delayed. Imagine trying to work on the engine and propulsion system while in the water or discovering the clog when you really needed your engine. I also really appreciate the time you take to explain what you are doing and why--it sets your videos apart from many.
We just replaced our raw seawater hose with a transparent metal-reinforced spiral hose so we can see the water or any airlocks and a drop or two of food colour in the raw water strainer soon shows if water is flowing OK.
Good luck with your new boat. Bavarias are great boats ;-)
What no Wensleydale? Gromit would not approve. You are fun to watch and your daughter is a joy. Your dream is in reach.
Safe passage for you and your family.
That milk whisker is also a real good machine for emulsifying a vinegrette. Makes for an awesome dressing when it is one rather than two or more liquids.
Thanks Abraham, they are definitely better than what we used to make some whipped cream on our honeymoon cruise... Two forks taped together in the end of an 18 drill 😂
Emma is growing up so fast! True cutie. Glad you're getting the motor dialed in too.
I had lots of hose clamps corroded like that Chris. They were the very cheap variety with the slots right through not just pressed in. Like you I was surprised to find the fit one. All replaced now.
Thanks! Every day I learn something new.😊
Just bought a boat with this problemen yesterday,, thank you so much for the info🙏
My pleasure, enjoy your new boat! 👍
Great video and Emma is such an adorable child! May the good Lord keep and bless you all!
Things are coming together very Well! Job well done, simple "low tech" test are simple and very effective
Just what I needed for my Volvo Penta 2001 - your an absolute legend! I will also be taking the advice given in the comments and cleaning the exhaust elbow at the same time. If you ever have problems with the vacuum valve and it being notoriously unreliable or dripping it can be swapped out for a Venus Anti Syphon device, I have heard they are virtually maintenance free and very reliable. Once again thanks 😀
My pleasure Paul! Thank you for the tip regarding the valve, ours appears to be working ok but they are finicky so another option is handy to know about. Very best regards, Chris 👍
Great video again, really knowledgable Chris and your wife is a saint living on board in this weather! Have you done the rudder bush? Keep them coming!
You guys seem to be making great progress! Our experience over the last 30+ years is that the exhaust injection manifolds on all marine diesels clog up between 6-8 years use dependant on engine running times, given that the waterways were so clogged, we would expect the exhaust elbow to be very encrusted and the bore reduced. Its a common problem that can lead to raw water backflowing into the exhaust manifold and then in to the cylinder bores. We would suggest you check the exhaust injection manifold as its common to have a severe blockage that reducesess power and can cause black smoke. At worse it builds up and chokes the engine with excessive back pressure and salt water where it should not be.. Takes a few mins to remove and check. Ant and Cid x
Hi there, thank you for the advice! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Well done. Not long before you get in the water. When I want to run my engine on the hard I stuff a hose pipe up the through hull for the seawater intake and turn it on. It can pop out but if you wedge it with a bit of wood it works well. Best of luck with the rest of your jobs.
Chris, I noticed in your engine room that you have a splitter to charge two battery banks that is made of two diodes. These diodes introduce a 0.7V drop between your alternator and the battery + terminal. This drop is sufficient to cause your battery not to charge fully and quickly. I would recommend you install a smart relay such as the ACR model which don't cause any drop in voltage. This relay combine the battery when the alternator works (or a solar panel) and separate them when the charger is off. This is the best approach to charging two battery banks from a single power source. Cheers, Richard
tartansailor volvo penta have a yellow battery sense wire on their alternators which is connected to the battery positive and compensates for voltage losses of the split charging diode.
Thanks Mark for this information, I did not know about this feature which makes a lot of sense. Cheers
The bronze T or whatever it is on your port side of the engine if it's not mechanically attached to the motor it'll need to be bonded. It'll dump alot of water in your boat when (and when) it wastes away.
That T- piece is made from dezincification resistant brass so it won't waste away. The two sea water inlets leading to it are protected by two brand new DZR sea cocks and skin fittings installed by yours truly. Fair winds, Chris
Wish my surveyor the other week thought that. Luckily I only had one not bonded, but I had to fix to get my insurance.. Love the video's!
Good idea about the car sound proofing and insulation. My boat has none what so ever and the engine is very loud.
I can't quite tell if you have a raw water cooled diesel, but it seems like you do. If so, have you ever considered converting it to a closed loop system with a heat exchanger? Would cost you under $300 US or 200 BP. Look at ebay for marine heat exchanger and for $100-$140 you will find brand new generic water-to-water heat exchanger sized for your engine. Since you only have one water pump on engine, suggest you use that for closed loop coolant pumping. As far as raw water pumping consider a 12v magnetic drive pump. For conversion installation video see Catamaran IMPI blog of 1 yr ago or so. This conversion would end a lot of your salt /junk cloging.
Finding low cost alternatives is great. But, people need to know where they can save, and where they can't. Like, knowing the difference between a car battery and a deep cycle marine battery. BTW, lovely singing voice, Emma.
~Hans
Thank you. I love the way you take us through your diagnostics thinking with these problems. I learn so much :)
Muriatic acid works better than vinegar for cleaning salt water corrosion. Badly blocked passages might require soaking over night.
Thank you for the advice Jack. Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Hello, I saw you starting the Volvo 2003 and I wonder if you now there is actually a cold start on it. Wen you give half throttle the gas lever and pull the stop kabel you engage the cold start. Leave the gas lever in the half position till the engine runs. Good luck. btw the little girl is very expressive , I love her smile.
Great job. One step closer
Super helpful Britaly thank you
Beatiful! We have the same experience with evrething we buy, Never said is for a boat!!!
Hi Sam, some things we buy are marine items (for example our new skin fittings and sea cocks are Dezincification-resistant Brass, which is specially designed for long term submersion in seawater) but often you can buy generic or industrial items much cheaper than those marketed for boats. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Great episode. The engine compartment looks good.
Great video. Thank you. I think I have te same problem with my engine.
Hi Chris..was wondering where your second cooling water intake is positioned on the hull. My galley sink outlets are just below the waterline and are out of the water when the boat is heeled..is yours going to be ok ? Otherwise you’ll draw air not water to cool your engine when motor sailing. I assume you routed it through a strainer? Glad you scrapped your countdown..you’re looking far more relaxed! Andy
well done Chris
always a joy to watch your videos :)
I should have done engineering instead of biochemistry! I've got a lot to learn to fix up my boat! Great videos, thanks.
Great Job. I'm learning a lot Thank you.
Raw water cooled engines should be a crime! Great vid :-)
More costly but 316 S/S T-Bolt hose clamps are my choice for mission-critical hoses and they can come with lock nuts too.
good job on the engine compartment.
Love your work.. God Bless
Nice job! Thanks for taking the videos, very informative.
Wow I'm learning a lot,thank you.
Great work 👍🏻 and your baby is so sweet! 💕
good job guys almost there
Nearly there. Saildrive looks great when you think about how bad it was. Engine sound deadening was pretty poor before you changed it and the new material is a good find I need some of that. Is it any quieter now or difficult to remember? Look forward to the clean bilges as all that muck is a pain. Also fingers crossed for your rudder bush so you can put that one to bed. Andy UK SY Corrival Rival 32
Such a great video and so informative too. Thanks.
Just a few questions if I may, what's the engine history? Has there been a rebuild or injectors, pistons replaced? I would take at least one injector and a impeller for the engine, Emma is not camera shy, be safe and happy travels.
Since a new engine only cost $500.00 !! Maybe consider making it fresh water cooled? You can get used good heat exchangers for around $100.00 bucks or so, and pumps around the same I think haven't looked them up lately, but well worth it. I have an old MD2 and had several, I always change them and never another problem. Yours is way newer so should last your life. They also make a stainless hose clamp ( jubilee ) that is 316 that won't rust! Yours is 306 and after awhile rusts. Even that type make sure it has 316 on it, Remember the cost of motor! Also a couple of lady's are depending on you to keep them alive! Do it right, The ocean will still be there!!!
Hi, I just started subscribing to your channel. I like the level of your projects, often many smart ideas, but also a little try and see what's happening.
12 days after splash, it´s like as always, good job without timetable
Οne of the most beautiful babies I've ever seen. Enjoy it
Thank you very much John, Emma is the light of our lives! :-)
Thanks guys
great video. thanks.
Hi that was interesting. Did you say the engine was raw water cooled with no heat exchanger? That would be unusual for what is a fairly modern looking engine. If it is what Volvo model number is it? While a raw water cooled engine is prone to some issues if the engine was designed for it then it's a lot simpler to Maintain in far flung places . Sorry if you have answered these questions in other videos.
Cheers Warren.
nice video .... cheers
Thank you Maurice! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 👍
The hose used to feed fuel to your engine is a fire hazard. It is NOT heat and fire resistant. This type of hose is meant for water not fuel. In case of fire in the engine room, this hose will easily melt and dump more fuel to nourish the fire. You can find proper fuel hoses in any auto part shop.
I saw that before we bought the boat. I have already bought the correct fire-resistant hose and changing this is on my to-do list. Fair winds, Chris 👍
I had exactly the same issue with my engine panels...
I think all these older sea water cooled volvos need to have their entire cooling system completely 'rodded out' .... the gunk build of from hot diesel exhaust being rapidly cooled by salty sea water is immense. kind of a dumb idea really. Also if you ever drag bottom as you motor your boat along. All the bottom grit and fine sand goes through you engine cooling passages. The sea strainer won't stop this.
Awesome Family
At 16.00 is the pipe in your right hand pinked? I have heard of electrolysis stealing part of the alloy making it much weaker. I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination they just look very different colors. (Spell check won’t let me use the proper spelling as I am In Silly Con Valley)
Was the diesel engine on your last yacht a Volvo Penta 2002 18hp?
I've got a 2002B on my 1990 Beneteau First 285
Have a recurring 'leak' somewhere whereby I get 250-odd mls of oily water in the bilge
Oil level in the engine looks to be AOK however
Any thoughts or experiences you can pass on re: where this darn leak might be coming from (I cannot for the life of me find the bloody thing!!!)
i have this engine, check your engine mounts , you have a lot of movement there x
I stress-tested teh engine mounts when I split the engine and drive, a weld failed on one of them... Cheers, Chris 👍
@@SailingBritaly good luck with everything x
Is there an impeller in the lower unit of the sail drive? If there is, and you do not have it immersed in water, you would run the risk of burning it up while you run the engine.
Hi Michael, the only impeller is the engine-driven one. Youre right that they need to be wet when they start rotating to avoid excessive wear / damage. Cheers, Chris 👍
And the engine driven one is mounted on the front of the engine?
@@mjarchambeau Yes, that's correct.
Keel?
Salve se parlate bene l'inglese avrei bisogno di una intermediazione per una compravendita di una imbarcazione in America valutarne le condizioni e organizzare la traversata fino in Toscana ve la setite?
I was just looking on the car insulation web site, not seen a 25mm thick item yet. carinsulation.co.uk sharing the love and thanks for the heads up on that supplier, we get so thoroughly ripped off here in Oz in part to customer apathy and also in part to ignornat suppliers who care not one iota about customer service or supplying anything outside of the norm...
Ok... I know this is your family, but is this about a sailboat or a how to raise your baby on a boat... Just sayin...