Boat Engine cooling. Engine overheating? Part 1
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- Boat Engine cooling. Engine overheating? In this video 2 part video we look at raw water cooling in marine diesels. Starting with detailed rebuild of a water pump.
Diesel Sailboat Engine cooling Part 2
In this video we look at the cooling system and how it works.
Link to the heat exchanger video here: • Sailboat Engine Mainte...
Link to two videos on the exhaust elbow here; • Marine Exhaust Horror!...
And here: • Overheating? Seawater ...
More on exhaust mufflers here; • Diesel engine problems...
We have produced the first of two videos to help explain how Marine Diesels work. This was requested by a couple of our viewers. Hope you enjoy both parts.
NB. The intercooler is after turbo and the intake not before. To give cool air into the combustion chamber. We noticed the error in the voice over too late to change it.
Welcome to our channel.
In 2018 we left the UK to sail around the world slowly. After Brexit, a "Pandemic" and major heart surgery we are still sailing, documenting our travels and showing you what we have learned so far.
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Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
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Captain, Thanks for sharing this video. I was able to successfully rebuild the Sea Water pump in my Volvo D1-30b. Now that I have done it once, I expect I could be to do it much faster next time. I chose to clean and paint the pump to prevent further corrosion on the exterior. Thanks for your contribution!
No worries, Thanks for watching.
When i used to work in a maintenance workshop and we wanted to get anything perfectly flat we used to use fine grinding paste on a sheet of glass bb
Plate glass is pretty flat 👍
(Baz) circlip pliers added to the shopping list. Top tip that we can use the other side of the face plate. Very informative video. Cheers. 👍
Thanks guys, sorry we are making you spend money:-) Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
You should get ones like Ant uses. They have interchangeable jaws. Warning, they can and do bite if you let them.
Nice with all practical works step that you share. Thanks.
We wanted to cover the raw water pump in more detail than we have done before as it is such an important component. More detail and top tips in the video we are just uploading now for Patreon's. Should be out next Sunday at 16;30 ish Thanks for watching mate. Sail Safe, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Great job love the level of detail 👍looking forward to part 2
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
you can`t beat good advice tips and tricks from a pro 👍even thuogh some will try to ignore them and learn it the hart expencive way every time🤦♂️
Well said Denis! That is why we do this. To try to help folks out. Be sure to watch our other videos and next weeks part two where we give a few more tips and tricks. Thanks for watching. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Brilliant! Yesterday I looked at our pump which is just like that but mounted at the back and run by a belt on a pulley at the back of the cam. Lo and behold there was water dripping from it. Next stop Volvo spare parts. At least I know now how to tackle it.
Phil check the parts list on our website you can get the same OEM lip seals for your pump much cheaper than Volvo. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
excellent !
Thanks Bernie. More next week. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Great video!! Love the details and tips! Thank you!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Interesting!! We can all learn something
Thanks For Watching John. Enjoy some of our other 200 videos. Regards Ant
Great video. Thank you. If the bearings need replaced are they easy to get off?
Yes they are relatively easy. Take a look at our previous video on water pumps and cooloing
Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Thank you for watching your UA-cam happily with my family.
I have a Bavarian Cruiser 33 in Korea
I also maintain the engine myself, I have a question. I bought a Seapump Impeller from eBay, but I have had experience that it was broken after a few hours.
Where do you buy the product? It's hard to find something as hard as a genuine Volvo.
We buy our parts from various places. Go to our website. On the downloads page you will find a Volvo Penta parts list alternative suppliers, here;
www.svimpavidus.com/downloads use this to find good suppliers at a fair price. who will ship to you. Thanks for watching. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
@@SVImpavidus thank you !! here also very good for me !! www.parts4engines.com/volvo-penta-d1-30-alternator-water-pump-belt/
Great video, helps alot! How much torque did you tighten the nut to at the end of the video?
You can use a strap wrench to hold the gear wheel. Gently hold the gear wheel in a vice or even wrap a twisted rag around the gear wheel to hold it. Do Not use the slot in other other end of the shaft to prevent it twisting as this will damage the shaft. The torque is 21 Nm with Loctight applied Hope this helps. Pleas take a look at our 150+ other videos on YT. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
@@SVImpavidus Thanks alot, I will check out your videos as well!
Good instructional video. 👍⛵️ BTW split washer or spring washer?
Hi mate. Trust your well and Horndean is not becoming a stay at home lock down area where you need a certificate signed by both grandparents to open the front door or have an opinion? BTW we found out why you did not get our email on a meet up for a Guinness and a chin wag. Our bad, we had the settings wrong... The pint was cold and went down well. So well, I drank yours and Cid drove home!!!! Yep the washer is split, and formed to spring against the nut. I am not convinced that this is the best solution? A Nyloc nut would be at the limit of its heat capability or tolerance hence the addition of good old Mr Loctite!
If we dont hear from you before, We wish you, your family and friends the very best Christmas. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
@@SVImpavidus yeah - fffff freezing here and wet. Tier 2 here which is petty restrictive and essentially means no social interaction apart from people you have formed either a support bubble with (single parent families) or a childcare support bubble (so we see our local grandkids). What is confounding is that disease levels have not really been reduced (in the South) and hospital admissions continue to ramp up. It is very difficult not to be too pessimistic about where this is all going particularly as the vaccine programme is probably going to take the best part of 2021 to impact.
BTW spring or split washers are pretty ineffective and a better arrangement would be a plain washer , a plain nut with the correct grade of Loctite (241?)
No worries about the email - nest time.👍
A very useful and instructional video. I do have a couple of comments however. 1. Not sure which way round the oil lip seal goes in. I am assuming from other videos that it goes with the lip toward the back ie away from the impeller and the water lip seal with the lip toward the impeller. 2. How far back does it go? You suggest using a socket to put the back (oil) lipseal in before the shaft. Is this correct? I did notice that you seemed to have both of the lipseals on the bench when you were talking about that. 3. Fitting the spacer and the O ring. Doesn't look quite as easy as 'just pop it in and push the O ring in place'. Should there be a groove on the shaft? 4. The shaft on my pump was really tight. It needed a hammer and block to 'persuade' it to move. A gentle tap did nothing. I also see some grooves on the shaft where the lip seals go. Maybe the shaft is worn and needs replacing. I will take further advice before refitting I think :/ Maybe I am being a bit overly cautious but not done this before.
Hi Richard welcome to the channel. Answering in the order you put the questions. 1. The lip seals have the rear running in fluid so the lip seal on the water side of the pump has its rear facing the impeller. That the flat side facing the engine block. The lip seal at the rear of the pump has it's rear facing the engine block so it gets splashed with oil. IE the flat face facing the pump. 2. The lip seals have a little space that they can be positioned for and aft so they do not always sit exactly in the same place on the shaft that may be worn in that location. It is about 1.5mm of tolerance. However, using a socket will press them in so that the rear of the seal is flush with the casting. IE they can be pushed just a tiny bit further in but should not be proud of the casting or they will foul the impeller. he rear (Oil seal) to the engine is not so critical but should be pushed home. In both cases they must be evenly in, not out of line with the shaft. 3. They sometimes need a little heat to persuade them off or even a press. If you have a large vice you can sometimes use it as a press. Use a hard wood block or a brass hammer. The shafts are quite easily damaged. Most auto shops have a small press and will generally help you out for the price of a good beer if you get stuck. 4. The shaft is stainless steel which tends to wear at the lip seal position. Moving the seal position as per point 1. Can help or very gently abrading the shaft with 2000 grit paper can help remove the wear rings. If after a gentle tickle with 2000 grit paper you can still feel the "grove" with your finger nail it is time for a new shaft or a shaft collar. Just google SKF speedy sleeve. these collars can be slipped over the shaft giving it a new lease of life. Hope this helps. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
@@SVImpavidus Thanks Ant. Finding your channel very interesting and am looking at the blogs on your website. I have now changed the seals and bearings but it involved so much bashing to get everything apart and then back together again I have decided to take it into a marine engineer to make sure that I have not created further problems and to put right any issues. A slight water drip from the pump I can deal with. A failed pump would not be a good thing. Thanks again for the videos. I have learned a lot from this exercise.
It is very different from our pump
Remind us again what engine you have? MD 2020 , MD2030?
@@SVImpavidus - MD2020 B or D, totally diffrent mounting plate and cog on the back. Ours is way smaller.
Or "it's 25 minutes and we haven't gone sailing yet....."
Oh if only we could! Not heard from you for a while mate, trust your all OK and things are not too bad? Italy is in lock down. We are not allowed to leave the harbour. We could sneak out, but where would we go? It is a real mess. Local businesses are really suffering. Good people who want to work just being shut down! There are no cvd deaths in the area recently but a few people have got it and are still alive and kicking! Hard to get sailing footage when sailing is forbidden. Lets pray things change and the madness ends soon and we can get back to sailing!!!! Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.