Thanks Shane. Another practical clip. Good idea to slot the compressor bracket. Landrover owners need a good variety of contortionist tools to do even the most simple jobs!
Thank you, you made it look so easy to remove it. best video ive seen. I dont have need to get in there as of yet,but then the time comes- im gonna install compressor under the hood .
It would be a better location as far as potential off-road damage is concerned. Doesn’t make much sense to me to have it there. Any thanks for you comment, greatly appreciated
Thanks Shane, another great video mate. I’ve done this before and am quite sure I’ll be doing it again some time down the track. Great idea with slightly modifying the bracket for easier fitting, I’ll definitely be doing that, thank you. I’ve got the AMK on my D3 along with another failed unit in the shed, which I’m thinking of pulling apart and doing the rebuild as I saw on another one of your videos. Just got to find the kit on eBay. Awesome work and thanks, Tony
If you don’t have a stuffed cylinder bore then you can most likely get away with just the standard rebuild kits that are around and easy to get. You just need to be careful of the piston seal/ring as I managed to damage mine - although I will save that for a future video sometime
Man...A real lift is almost a requirement when owning one of these. I'm assuming you replaced a Hitachi comp with a Hitachi, otherwise you'd need to reprogram the system to a different model which apparently is fairly simple with the GapII tool. And the slotting of that upper bolt hole s a good idea. You mentioned the dessicant change but I didn't see you do that. Also, I'm hearing of a 2 part foam and felt filter in the driver's side rear access panel. It is well hidden up and to the left or rear once you remove the black panel. I'm not sure these filters exist on earlier models but apparently they'll affect performance of the lifting when they get dirty, or if they break down into dust as so many high mile components can do..... Cheers! Subbed and liked.
Yeah I just replaced with a hitachi, they are (or at least it was at the time) cheaper than the newer AMK style. They can easily be set with the gap IID. I had the perfect opportunity to check for the intake filter in the left rear when I replaced the rear A/C evaporator core. Complelty forgot about it
I think anyone who is gonna do this should definately use that aluminium air dryer cover (if they can). The plastic ones have a design fault where they split down the middle after time.
i know its been mentioned around the traps as being a known fault, but ive never had a plastic cap fail in my 9 years of owning this disco. I did get an aluminum cap with the first rebuild kit i brought, but the fittings for the airlines where not correct so ive never used it.
You can access the top bolt and remove the compressor without removing the mount. I'd bought a Chinese ebay replacement but should have gone with at least a Dunlop unit. Q. Does the Dunlop make the same amount of noise as the original unit?
Thanks Shane. Another practical clip. Good idea to slot the compressor bracket. Landrover owners need a good variety of contortionist tools to do even the most simple jobs!
Yeah the first time I changed it out getting that top bolt back in was a nightmare. So much easier now
Thank you, you made it look so easy to remove it. best video ive seen. I dont have need to get in there as of yet,but then the time comes- im gonna install compressor under the hood .
It would be a better location as far as potential off-road damage is concerned. Doesn’t make much sense to me to have it there. Any thanks for you comment, greatly appreciated
Man im in Poland see your video thanks 👍
Thanks for the comment. How’s the weather in Poland?
Thanks Shane, another great video mate. I’ve done this before and am quite sure I’ll be doing it again some time down the track. Great idea with slightly modifying the bracket for easier fitting, I’ll definitely be doing that, thank you.
I’ve got the AMK on my D3 along with another failed unit in the shed, which I’m thinking of pulling apart and doing the rebuild as I saw on another one of your videos. Just got to find the kit on eBay.
Awesome work and thanks,
Tony
If you don’t have a stuffed cylinder bore then you can most likely get away with just the standard rebuild kits that are around and easy to get. You just need to be careful of the piston seal/ring as I managed to damage mine - although I will save that for a future video sometime
@@Shanes_Shed thanks Shane appreciate the reply. Keep up the good work.
Man...A real lift is almost a requirement when owning one of these. I'm assuming you
replaced a Hitachi comp with a Hitachi, otherwise you'd need to reprogram the system
to a different model which apparently is fairly simple with the GapII tool. And the slotting of that upper bolt hole s a good idea. You mentioned the dessicant change but I didn't see you
do that. Also, I'm hearing of a 2 part foam and felt filter in the driver's side rear access
panel. It is well hidden up and to the left or rear once you remove the black panel. I'm not
sure these filters exist on earlier models but apparently they'll affect performance of the
lifting when they get dirty, or if they break down into dust as so many high mile components
can do..... Cheers! Subbed and liked.
Yeah I just replaced with a hitachi, they are (or at least it was at the time) cheaper than the newer AMK style. They can easily be set with the gap IID. I had the perfect opportunity to check for the intake filter in the left rear when I replaced the rear A/C evaporator core. Complelty forgot about it
I think anyone who is gonna do this should definately use that aluminium air dryer cover (if they can). The plastic ones have a design fault where they split down the middle after time.
i know its been mentioned around the traps as being a known fault, but ive never had a plastic cap fail in my 9 years of owning this disco. I did get an aluminum cap with the first rebuild kit i brought, but the fittings for the airlines where not correct so ive never used it.
You can access the top bolt and remove the compressor without removing the mount. I'd bought a Chinese ebay replacement but should have gone with at least a Dunlop unit. Q. Does the Dunlop make the same amount of noise as the original unit?
I never noticed a noise difference between a hitachi and dunlop compressors.
might be a flamin' good idea to grease those screws which are NOT bolts
Never a bad idea to antiseize/grease bolts/screws etc…