I just replaced my drive belt on a Craftsman T1600. It's the exact same as yours. However i tipped the mower on its right side to make it easier. I didn't have to upside down. Just be extra careful to not lose the nut and washer that goes through the deck. I wish I would have seen your video sooner. Good job.
Unfortunately, you can't just put any V belt of the right length on those lawn tractors. They were designed to use the Kevlar reinforced V - belts which are far stronger than normal V belts. Not only that, some tractors have special V pulleys which are designed for use with wider V belts to give them more surface contact area, so that they can handle more power without breaking or wearing out in a couple of years from being overstressed. Just any V belt won't work in such special V pulleys. You must use the special wider, heavier Kevlar reinforced V belt designed for them. The tractor often has the part number of the belts on a label stuck to the inside of the hood. The new belt should have that number printed on it when you get it. As long as the belt has the correct part number printed on it, you can buy it wherever you can get it the cheapest. They are usually pretty expensive, but can last for many years, unless the mower is being used commercially, which they aren't really designed for.
@@billsimpson604 I learned that the OEM belt from MTD is needed. Even though the Amazon belt was the same part number it just caused issues as it didn’t “slip” enough and always wanted to go. This problem also wore out my brake pad but that was a quick $7 fix. Hopefully this OEM MTD belt will last 10 years like the original.
@@charleschapman2428 Results were good! The MTD belt fixed my issue. I wasn’t going to add another video, I probably could eventually add an update at the end showing the shifting being smooth and the brake now holding. It’s like new again.
@@petespit9169 out of the three pulleys that are on the transaxle, it's the one on the front that's got the spring on it. It actually supposed to move back and forth and keep tension if it's set up like my Craftsman
@@60below04 On my LT2000 that tensioner you mention is for the small belt above the drive belt it’s not applying any tension on the drive belt. Tension on the drive belt comes from the brake. You apply the brake and tension is released when the pulley assembly moves with the brake. You let off the brake and the tension increases.
I just replaced my drive belt on a Craftsman T1600. It's the exact same as yours. However i tipped the mower on its right side to make it easier. I didn't have to upside down. Just be extra careful to not lose the nut and washer that goes through the deck. I wish I would have seen your video sooner. Good job.
@@jean-louislependu4790 I feel like they could have made this so much easier. Especially for a maintenance type item we all eventually have to do.
I’m lazy so I grind shaft a little too get socket on 7/8 nut, works great 😊
I’ve had very good luck with the 8ten belts and not any problems on alot of different riders and most were MTD and YPA
Unfortunately, you can't just put any V belt of the right length on those lawn tractors. They were designed to use the Kevlar reinforced V - belts which are far stronger than normal V belts. Not only that, some tractors have special V pulleys which are designed for use with wider V belts to give them more surface contact area, so that they can handle more power without breaking or wearing out in a couple of years from being overstressed. Just any V belt won't work in such special V pulleys. You must use the special wider, heavier Kevlar reinforced V belt designed for them.
The tractor often has the part number of the belts on a label stuck to the inside of the hood. The new belt should have that number printed on it when you get it. As long as the belt has the correct part number printed on it, you can buy it wherever you can get it the cheapest. They are usually pretty expensive, but can last for many years, unless the mower is being used commercially, which they aren't really designed for.
@@billsimpson604 I learned that the OEM belt from MTD is needed. Even though the Amazon belt was the same part number it just caused issues as it didn’t “slip” enough and always wanted to go. This problem also wore out my brake pad but that was a quick $7 fix. Hopefully this OEM MTD belt will last 10 years like the original.
Thanks for the video, Hopefully you do a follow up to show the results .
@@charleschapman2428 Results were good! The MTD belt fixed my issue. I wasn’t going to add another video, I probably could eventually add an update at the end showing the shifting being smooth and the brake now holding. It’s like new again.
Antizee the bolts and shafts
For sure if you pressure wash your equipment 😮
Or just pull the tensioner pulley and not remove anything
@@60below04 Where is the tensioner pulley, please share that detail.
@@petespit9169 out of the three pulleys that are on the transaxle, it's the one on the front that's got the spring on it. It actually supposed to move back and forth and keep tension if it's set up like my Craftsman
@@60below04 On my LT2000 that tensioner you mention is for the small belt above the drive belt it’s not applying any tension on the drive belt. Tension on the drive belt comes from the brake. You apply the brake and tension is released when the pulley assembly moves with the brake. You let off the brake and the tension increases.