Відео

@@ElysianConcepts I found this thread with a diagram. mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w204/666400-fuse-number-location-side-marker-lights.html It doesn’t specify say side marker but in the trunk #13 would be the one I try.

Sorry, not in the trunk, under the hood, fuse box on the driver side.

@@petespit9169 saw this wasn’t helpful they don’t answer the question thank you for the effort

@@jean-louislependu4790 I feel like they could have made this so much easier. Especially for a maintenance type item we all eventually have to do.

@@justinburks7949 The lock can be ordered from realtruck.com. They own undercover now.

@@labratflowhoodz I’d get some hesitation for a few seconds if cruising at about 40mph. If it gets bad you’ll get misfire codes and a check engine light. Changing the coils fixed that.

@@charleschapman2428 Results were good! The MTD belt fixed my issue. I wasn’t going to add another video, I probably could eventually add an update at the end showing the shifting being smooth and the brake now holding. It’s like new again.

@@billsimpson604 I learned that the OEM belt from MTD is needed. Even though the Amazon belt was the same part number it just caused issues as it didn’t “slip” enough and always wanted to go. This problem also wore out my brake pad but that was a quick $7 fix. Hopefully this OEM MTD belt will last 10 years like the original.

@@60below04 Where is the tensioner pulley, please share that detail.

@@petespit9169 out of the three pulleys that are on the transaxle, it's the one on the front that's got the spring on it. It actually supposed to move back and forth and keep tension if it's set up like my Craftsman

@@60below04 On my LT2000 that tensioner you mention is for the small belt above the drive belt it’s not applying any tension on the drive belt. Tension on the drive belt comes from the brake. You apply the brake and tension is released when the pulley assembly moves with the brake. You let off the brake and the tension increases.

@@sha_dollaz5529 My video on the rear brakes I said it was a #7 Allen head socket, I think the front is the same.

@@calebadair6016 it does sound like that’s the issue. When my blower motor went out is was winter, I could faintly feel heat coming through the front window defroster and I could smell the heat but just wasn’t getting airflow from the vents. If it was making noise while running before it stopped working that’s an indicator of the motor being the problem. Also if you remove the cabin air filter cover which I show in the video you can try to give the motor a spin while it’s on. If the bearings are corroded then they won’t be able to spin off the initial power on cycle and you may be able to help them by spinning the motor from the cabin air filter box. This would help confirm it’s the motor, but if it doesn’t start it still seems to be the issue. I’d suggest getting a new one and plugging it in to check, then if it is just finish the installation. I’m sure you can check voltage and other electrical things when trying to troubleshoot but the easy way is to plug in a new one.

I always get the oil change kit from FCP euro. Looks like they changed the filter in the kit since I last did an oil change. Here is a link to the filter in their oil change kit, all o-rings are included with the filter. www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-engine-oil-filter-hengst-2701800109

Thank you

There is a cabin air filter but it shouldn’t cause the blower not to work. There is probably a fuse for the blower, I’m not certain where it is. FCP euro has some options for the blower, just check the website. I bought the cheap one from them, they have a good warranty.

I’ve got the “check front left parking lamp “ error too right now. Open the hood and there are two small dust covers above the low beam dust cover. Hard to see them but you can feel the tab on the dust cover and get two fingers on it to turn it. I think the bulb pulls straight out vs twisting.

@@petespit9169 oh thank you so much

Drains by itself. I just remove the cap and pull the filter.

I always replace both sides. My thought is that the bulbs are technically meant to have the same life, so if they were put in at the same time it’s likely that the other side is also close to the end of its life. The rear taillights are accessible by opening the trunk and removing the trunk liner just behind the lights. It’s been a while since I did this one. All bulbs are on a rack, the rack can be pulled back, all bulbs are inserted into the rack and then the rack is reinserted. I don’t think there is a rear side marker on the car…it’s not with me right now so I can’t check.

No, no messages after changing them.

Mine is a 2010 luxury. I bought H7 but after taking the bulb out saw they were H11 and returned the H7 to Amazon for H11 replacements. Best way to be sure what’s in there is to open it up and take out the bulb. My manual didn’t say what the fog lights were.

@@petespit9169 oke

@@petespit9169 Hello, I bought H11, but it did not fit, the nails were small, where can I find out the h code, can you help me?

@@fatihcatal692 hi, was there a bulb that was removed? Usually they have a bulb number on them. Mercedes didn’t make a w204 c180 in 2011 in the US. The w204 was the generation three class from 2008-2014, only C300, C350, and C63. I get a lot of parts from FCP Euro, they also don’t show an option for a 2011 c180 when searching. www.fcpeuro.com

@@petespit9169 2011 w204 c180

I lift the vehicle with the jack under the rear differential. Then put the jack stands in front of the rear tire on either side. Look under the vehicle in front of the rear tire where the rocker panel ends. You should see a pad that is used as a jacking point. If you don’t have jack stands you can jack each side up using these jack points just in front of the rear tire, just have to complete everything on one side put the tire back on and go to the next side.

You can change them if they have been in for a while. The owners manual or maintenance schedule might say when to change them. Could be around 100k miles.

No no codes.

@@petespit9169 Thank you so much

Yes it does.

Ha! Don’t grease it….that’s the bleeder.

brake fluid fitting

They are H7’s that I installed. Maybe the seller doesn’t have them anymore so it’s defaulting to what they have. Search H7 and see who has them, H7 is the right fit. There is also a list in the manual of bulbs if you have a manual, you can double check there.

Someone commented that the tab needs to be pulled down, you said you tried pulling the tab up. Maybe you tried both…

There is a good tab that is just about opposite the duct port. A few people said they had to pull it down to get the motor off. Wondering if that is causing the issue.

Check out this link, it shows the cylinder numbers for the V8 www.fixya.com/support/t25785582-firing_order_2004_lincoln_ls_3_9_v8

Thanks​@@petespit9169

Thank you so much for your teaching on how to change them about how long did it take you 👍💯

Great video with step by step instruction that are extremely easy to follow, THANK YOU!!! My only question would be. If your in that deep already, why would you not change your spark plugs also? Since it seems such a time consuming job. I think I'd change out my plugs also. With my luck if I didn't change plugs. On the coil test ride I would probably foul a plug, lol. Thanks again!!!