THANK YOU Car Wizard! I have learned so much watching your channel over the years. I'm not an auto mechanic, I actually have a meteorology degree and teach middle school science. But I love to tinker and explore "how things work," and this series is perfect.
Love to hear science is still taught in the US - when I hear of all these crazy flat earthers denying all of science - and invariably being absolutely unable to work with numbers, with formulas, or have the ability to imagine 3-dimensional correlations or analyze in their head a "when this is so, then what are the consequences scenario?" I think the most important thing to bring over to kids is that physics (or chemistry or biology or...) is not something theoretical where you learn the answers by heart to get the grades, but is something that is connected with your life, what you can use, what applies in everyday life. Often experiences you make in everyday life put into numbers. That when you hang soggy pants on a washing line, why it sags through most when you put it in the middle and way less when put at the sides is the parallel of forces you can draw out on a sheet of paper. Or how forces add up to resulting forces - for my gravity denying flat earthers how gravity and centrifugal forces combine, taking a bucket with water on a string and swing it, you can create a flat water surface in the bucket that is oriented in any kind of direction compared to the flat water surface outside the swirled bucket, including upside down. Just one force (centrifugal force) more dominant than the other, that is all it needs. Water conforms it shape and surface orientation to the forces at work. Be it gravity, centrifugal force, cohesion, adhesion, air resistance for falling drops, all combines. Sorry to interfere in your work, but maybe that gives one idea or two.
I have a friend that was a meteorologist, too, who went on an expedition into the deepest valley on earth to study a strange wind there, that went only in one direction with up to 50 mph (usually thermal winds revert direction over the day). Even though the valley floor was on 9,000 feet, it is no problem to have a valley 15,000 foot deep when the K2 with 28,000 feet is on one side. They could not use balloons for their measurements as the winds would have blown them too much sideways instead of vertical. So my friend used his hobby, RC model airplanes and developed a high-altitude-optimized electrically powered glider for that. They climbed up to 7,500 feet above ground, had special telescopic glasses that Zeiss had made for them so that they could still see the plane at that height. Science combined with fun, hobby, exotics (Tibet) and adventure.
My very first automotive mechanical experience was changing the timing chain and gears on my dad's 67 Chrysler Newport. The 383 sitting in that cavernous engine bay was simplicity itself to work on. A Chilton manual from the library, a few very basic tools and the replacement parts was all a novice needed to do the job. My how times have changed!
Another thing I learned about timing chains (the hard way) is that if you don't change your engine oil enough, it stretches the chain and the chain will actually jump off the sprocket, which is incidentally how my Rav4 died.
Yeah, you really need to be on top of maintenance with timing chains. Modern direct injection engines put more stress on them too due to running the high pressure fuel pump and the extra soot that gets into the oil from direct injection.... Sort of like diesel engine soot). If you want to get long life from a modern engine don't follow the "oil change reminder" in the car... Just change it every 5k (or earlier if you drive less).
It doesn't matter what you drive. Change the oil at or BEFORE the reccomended interval. If you don't, you are doing permenant damage to your engine and risking catostrophic failure.
@@surferdude4487 Right, I bought the car used, and that was one of the first things I did. But when the mechanic took off the cover, the sludge was a nice, thick coat.
This is especially true for the long chains of DOHC motors. When Lexus switched to the UR V8s with chains like the 4.6L and to a lesser extent in the 5.0L, they had problems with the timing chain tensioners.
I had a belt snap on a 91 Honda Civic when my son took my keys and tried to start it up. Fortunately it didn’t start. We took it to a hobby shop on our base, found TDC, matched a mark on the cam gear to the crank pulley, removed a engine mount, installed the belt, ran a compression check, and drove it for years. But it was nowhere as complex of an engine than the ones you were working on. No matter how much you know, you should keep your mind open and learn from others. Good video !
I changed a timing belt on the side of the road once. It took a couple hours and cost less than 50 bucks with a new tensioner. My Volvo 240 non interference B230 motor was so easy to work on.
I’m in CA and wish you were closer. Your thoroughness, honesty, professionalism and pride in your work is why I enjoy your channel. It’s refreshing. I have had one bad experience after another with shops here and paying $150-$200 an hour in labor.
Videos like this are SUPER important. If you watch car videos casually like I do you pick this stuff up over time and you have those random "ohh well that makes sense" moments but with videos like this you can learn what something is, why it is and what the correct processes are for replacement. Thanks for making this!
Thank you car wizard, You are amazing. I love your channel As a mechanic it does make me feel frustrated when customers start to question my abilities & my diagnosis. I totally understand the financial pressure customers are under & I will usually do what I can to help out where possible. However these are complex machines and therefore need maintenance. So thank you for your incredibly helpful videos.
Thank you wizard this was a great video and a great learning tool for those that don't know what a timing belt/chain is. It brings home the fact that you just can't keep driving on an old timing belt, and often when people hear the term belt they assume that no damage could be done if it breaks. Keep on making these show and tell videos they are fantastic.
Wizard did a good job, he forgot one reason why water pump need to be replaced, worned water pump can locked itself which mean that timing belt will rubbing on seized water pump, it will break which also mean dead engine.
They aren't that common any more. They never really were so I wouldn't expect too many. Heck I don't even have a census of what he's worked on. Four seems like a lot tbh.
@@williamegler8771 everyone that's maintained by a slightly sane person. There are 3-4 in the lot where I work and all but 1 are daily drivers. The one that's not commonly driven is because the own has like 10 cars. But it still runs and he moves it occasionally
I second that request. I was hoping he'd cover "interference" and "non-interference" in this vid but he went deeper into the function than I thought, and I guess time was an issue. Hopefully he'll cover them in the next one.
An interference engine is one where the pistons will smash into the valves if they're out of time (i.e. timing belt broken). Not all engines will do this and some will clear the valves such as some old Vauxhall engines.
Also important is the quality of the replacement Timing Belt. I would use Gates Brand every time. They have a long history of belt-making. Forget the 'cheapies' when your engine is at stake!
Hello Mr Wizard - You did not mention that some heavy duty engines (Isuzu diesel engines or F1 formula race engines, etc) instead of belts or chains use timing gears, that are the most reliable way, but at the same time the most expensive and loudest. But I can see why these were skipped - due to being very rare. Otherwise - top notch information!
You beat me to it. I have had motorcycles with gear driven cams and they were amazing. mostly Honda v4s but one was a 400cc in line 4 liquid cooled motor with gear driven cams.
While I knew what you were talking about, I love your videos for the fact that even if I don't know or someone else doesn't know, you take the time to show us without making us feel stupid. Thank you for being that type of channel. I'm almost positive I will never work on a Ferrari or Lambo, but those videos are very interesting to me also. Take care.
In California, all cars are required by law to go at least 105,000 miles before the belt has to be replaced, it can last longer than that, but the minimum is 105,000 miles.
A couple timing belts ago I Changed my 4A-FE timing belt, somehow got the cam gear timing off by ONE tooth. Engine coughed, sputtered, backfired, would not start. Till i slipped the top of belt off, the cam gear moved back one tooth (as if it was spring loaded), slipped the belt back on and fired right up, runs smooth to this day.
You are spot on in regards to changing a belt driven water pump at the same time. The new belt will have different tension characteristics that will change the stress on the bearing and seal of the used pump and cause a fail in short order. One week on the car I learned from....
This is a wonderful video!!!! It's about time someone addressed the timing belt/chain sequence and issues. I know you did mention it in the video, but it's important to distinguish the difference between an interference vs a non-interference engine. People need to be aware that failure on an interference engine is catastrophic. Also can't stress enough that belts and the water pump need to be replaced at certain intervals, I replace mine at 90K intervals on my Highlander
I have had two LS400s and the first UCF-10 car with the 1UX-FE was a non-interference engine, but the one from 1997, the UCF-20 in the U.K. was an interference engine. I had the timing belts changed on both, because I always seem to get landed with that job!
Excellent explanation and demonstration about timing belts and chains! I have a basic understanding of what their purpose is, but I've never actually seen them. Much appreciated!
While I already know this, I think you did an excellent job for all the greenhorns out there. To the point, and easy to understand. They should call you "Professor Wizard".
Hey Wizard, thank you! I really appreciate this style of instructional videos. I never pretend to be an expert, but by doing as much auto care as I can myself certainly keeps my BMW repair/maintenance/upgrade costs (more) affordable. Not only are you saving me some money, but you're helping me know when I actually need to take my car to a professional.
I changed the timing belt myself in my 1987 Chevy Sprint (60k mile interval), but that had a simple SOHC 3-banger and it didn't require much disassembly to get to it. Believe me, I double and triple checked the timing marks were perfectly aligned before I buttoned it all up, then said a quick prayer before turning the key 😀 The next 2 vehicles I owned had chains, so no change interval and didn't need to get them replaced. The 2 after that had belts, but by then everything was far more complex so I paid to get them done. Now I'm back to chains so hopefully no replacement. Even with 30+ years of experience in IT, I will never pass on an opportunity to hear an expert talk about subjects I know well, since there's always something you can learn. So anybody should watch this video, if for nothing else to get a look at a beautiful Ferrari V8.
@@perpetualgrin5804 indeed stressful on first attempt. I had that feeling when I first installed induction cooktop in my previous home. One wire wrong and it could have catastrophic consequences. Checked all of multiple times. I haven't done a belt change yet but I'm confident i can do it. I also have a Hayes car manual explaining how to do it properly. Luckily I don't need to remove the engine mount to reach the belt. That would really be a step to far for diy.
Hey Wizard, thanks for a great tutorial, you explain things clearly & easy to understand!!! This is the Wizard's college of mechanical knowledge!!! 👍👍🙂🎈
Ya know, 45+ Years ago , after growing up with 2 strokes, small engines & tractors, I was introduced to a small block timing chains... And I wondered what was wrong with timing gears? Then 10 years later a timing BELT?? Who were these mentally deficit engineers?!? Lol. Plastic chain guides? Nylon gears? Inside a Real motor?? Amazing what they've dreamed up in the last half a century... Great tutorial, everyone needs education... Thanx !
I'm glad you made this. I recently purchased a 2007 Golf R32 and it's got chains. And apparently the repair is around £2.5k compared to the belt which I usually pay £450-£500
It's a lot more work to replace the chain(s), because they are internal to the engine. That means there will be cast cover-plates to be removed, the chains and guides cost more, cland there's likely to be a more expensive tensioner to replace. It all has to be put back, taking great care to make sure it is oil-tight. On a well designed engine with a timing belt it ought to be designed with it being a service item in mind. Sadly a lot of manufacturers ignore that part by cramming so much into an engine bay. Nb. Modern timing belts are way better than those 30 years ago. There are now things like Kevlar available.
Thank you, Wizard! This was a very informative video - you should do more of these types of videos, as you explain complex technical issues in a very straightforward manner. 👍
both are good, they both have been used for decades threw many car companies, it all comes down to how hard the vehicle is abused and treated, then doing maintenance so they both last for years, in the end most consumers dont care how they work or why, just when they break and need repair by you, big bucks everywhere $$$$$$. i could remember when folks said the chain was best, no the belt is best, were in a hype time of chains, now that were all repairing timing chains and variable cams, the timing belt sounds good again. the exstent of the wizzards video here exsplaining the depth of how many things are related to the chain or belt is very well done, like he said no one wants to understand this type of repair. nice video.
When I bought my Volvo XC90 with an D5 5cyl inline diesel the car had 170.000km on the guage, and the interval for changing the timingbelt was 180.000km so I asked the Volvo dealer to change it before we go got it and put the cost on the bill, it feels much safer to have it done in time than spend another $1200 in just a few months!
My wife was stranded on a freeway, about 15 miles from home, in the dark and the rain, when the timing belt snapped on our 5-year-old 1976 Pinto snapped with about 36K miles on the odometer. Fortunately, a kindly lady gave her a lift to a phone booth (remember those?), and we had AAA towing. Non-interference engine, $50 repair in early 1980s dollars. A few years later I was stranded on the same stretch of freeway, in the opposite direction, when the timing chain on my 1973 Chevy V-8 stripped the plastic(!) teeth on the cam sprocket. Interference engine, new lifters and cams, $700 repair in late 1980s dollars.
Very good video! Manufacturers seem to have gone back to chains now. I had a 1982 Ford Ranger with the 2.3 liter 4. It had a timing belt and I pushed it to far. The belt broke and left me stranded. Luckily, the 2.3 is a non-interference engine, so no engine damage. Later, I bought the special Ford tool and successfully changed the belt a few times. Even on that engine, it was an all day job(at least for me). you had to remove all the accessories to get to the timing belt cover.
I have done it on Mercedes, Audi and others. The Audi was a pain in the ass, a 2005 TTS. The older MB (1958) is a snap. It uses a chain. Promised myself I would never own an Audi. I have had four of them since. Audi has changed to a chain. Chains can “stretch.” What happens is that each link will wear a little and there is a lot of them. Suppose there is 100 links in the chain and each one wears 0.001”. Then the chain would be one inch longer. Eventually the tensioner can’t keep up with the longer chain. Plus the timing is getting off.
I just replaced the timing chain on my 2011 mercedes E350 CDI at 403k km (250k miles). It cost me a bit over 300€ to do. I didn't have any problems with the original chain but decided to change it for peace of mind.
I had to change many timing belts off of 70-90s work trucks. Easy peasy, all you need is one wrench and a crowbar. The newer vehicles I will not touch. It's stupidly complicated.
That's a great tutorial Wizard. At 12:30 you could point out the 'chain tensioner',(8 o'clock in view), sticking out so far that there's silver on the cylinder showing,and it's passed it's useable position because of chain stretch and guide wear.There should be 1/2 that showing.
Thanks wizard. Old short chains on American OHV V8, V6 were very reliable, except some with nylon sprockets. Long and multiple chains on DOHC engines with high DI fuel pump loading are subject to stretching, tensioner and guide issues. Should be inspected as precaution to total failures. SOHC non interference engine W/O DI using interval replaceable timing belt is good, because timing belt designed to be replaced and if belt breaks, no valve damage. Some old engines with cam in block just used two lubricated gears; no chains, no belt fears.
Bought a LS in 2021. I made sure it was chain driven not belt driven. Now I know what I’m going to deal with when the water pump needs to be replaced. I’ll make sure to check those chain guides as well. Thanks Mr Wizard !
I have a 91 model ls400 still working strong but i have a new water pump and timing belt in store as those are the only big maintenance these need around every 100.000 miles or so do this 10 times and you are at the million club :)
Christmas Day 2012 at around 11pm... I learnt all about timing belt failure! Thankfully I was 1 mile from home any my Dad came to tow me home! Back then, I knew nothing about timing belts, hence why it hadn’t been done when it should!
Excellent video Wizard, you should do more of these, you had great examples to show us. Well done, I understand timing belts and chains, but still neat to see an expert go through the fine details. Also, my friend has teenage boys I sent him this video to teach his boys the difference. I like videos that are straight to the point, but yet explains everything so well. That is what is great about your shop you have the everyday drivers cars to the exotics. A++ on this one Wizard.
Thank You Sir ! As a retired Volvo Parts Manager I appreciate your " Public Safety / Service Lesson " ! Very well explained and knowledge that most young and some older like myself cannot grasp ! I will be sharing for all my family and friends that need an education ! Its not just gas and oil changes that are needed ! Some as you have shown cannot even change the oil on their cars ? Hope you were able to get those headers for your jaguar chevelle that I called you about 2 plus years ago and spoke with you about a source ? Any new bus updates ? Thanks again for your public service announcement ! A faithful subscriber ! God Bless ! P.s. Hello to your partner in life Mrs. Wizard !
Very good video showing the intricacies of taking apart those babies to change their timing belts/chains. People think they are easy (like a serpentine belt)...they are NOT! I had an old (1986) Honda Accord. EFI, auto. I replaced the timing belt (it had been done by the dealer before, I had the paperwork). The crank timing belt mark on that engine is on the flywheel at the back of the engine block (marked white with a bit T stamped beside it). There was another mark (colored red) that was for the IGNITION timing (15 deg. if memory serves right). It turned out the timing belt was timed to the RED mark! (Incidentally, the engine would rev fine up to about the 5k rpm or so, beyond that it would start sputtering, which I had thought it was some sort of rev limiter in action) New belt timed to the righT spoT and no more "rev limiter"
Hi car wizard, a point you might like to mention is that although chains, providing that service intervals are observed they can be counted in thousands of miles, the rubber belts age as well. Example my Rover 75 only had 37000 klm on the engine, but it was the original so 23 years old. Something to consider.
My first knowkedge of timing was as a kid i was on s trip with my grandpa coming back after a car show to San Jose in his 57 Chevy BelAir. It had just won 1st place. The timing chain broke somewear outside of Petaluma. The car only had 26,000 miles in 1980. Grandpa was a mechanic so he flagged down a driver who drove us to an autoparts store. To buy tools & parts. Took us back and we fixed it in the side of highway 101. The good ole days.
My old truck has all steel timing gears! No belts or chains here, just a 2:1 ratio gearset. The camshaft actually spins in reverse to normal because of this, but it's all designed that way. It's an old International Harvester 345 motor. A little noisier (but with no roof, no doors, can't hear much but the wind anyway!), but extremely long-lived. Don't know how many other manufacturers ever did this, but I thought it was interesting!
Generous Motors did in up to around 1950 as well as Ford unless I am mistaken. They basically were good for the life of the engine. Then they realized it made more profit to use chains as they wear out.
I learned what a timing belt was back in 1990 while driving my 1986 Mazda 626. The engine died on the freeway and had no clue until towed to the shop. Oh, your belt snapped but your engine is non-interference so you are Ok. After that I changed my own and that car is so simple to do. Today the only car I have with a belt is a 91 Mazda 626 so still easy. All others have timing chains from 1965-2018.
I, for one, am glad that my 1GRFE comes with a timing chain. With proper lubrication, timing chains last for the life of the engine and more so nothing to worry about. Caveat being wrongly lubricated engine will destroy itself and the timing chain is usually the first to go.
Love when motorcycles are brought into car conversations. ❤ For motorcycles I have a Suzuki Vstrom, Royal Enfield Interceptor, and a Harley-Davidson Softail Deuce. As my car of choice, always my Toyota 4runner. 2000 with 177,000 miles always runs strong.
Thank you, Car Wizard. I came up doing the old school timing light bit for adjusting the timing- along with feeler gauges for points and the like. I say the modern motors, though more complex, are better that the old days motors- much tighter tolerances and better alloys make them last so much longer if regular mountainous is practiced. I don't miss trying to figure out if the timing was off or the dwell angle or....
Great video a lot of people who are not mechanical in mind like a lot of us are that work on cars don’t understand but sometimes people just don’t understand how a internal combustion engine exactly works this might help explain to them why repairs cost do much now days compared to years ago they are more complex today than they were years ago and this video might just might help them understand that again great vid 👍👍👍
Did my J-series timing belt 3y and 40k kms ago for $50, price of the belt, and the engine still works great. It's crazy how much you can save by learning a relatively simple skill.
The timing belt on a Toyota 4.2 turbo diesel is the easiest thing I’ve ever seen to change the belt. It’s on the outside of the engine and you just remove the plastic cover, line up the marks, release the tensioner (probably replace that while you’re in there), take off the old belt and fit the new, and then make sure everything is still lined up, cover back on, job done. We had that excellent motor in a 2004 Landcruiser 100 series.
It's almost the same on a Subaru, especially if it's a single cam. Just take the front covers off and replace the tensioner and the idlers. The access is so easy and the belt kit so cheap that the waterpump isn't a must to change if it's still fine on a low mileage car.
I've had two vehicles where the timing belt has snapped. One was a write-off and the other needed extensive (and expensive) repairs that took the dealership a month to complete (jerks). Learn from my irresponsibility: when it's time to change the belt/chain, CHANGE IT!
One of my cars is non-interference, used to have two (lost one in an accident 😔). There were so few that were, but I still look it up if I'm considering a used car.
Just replaced a timing belt on another 1UZ out of a SC400. That belt had 212,000 miles on it. It looked similarly, but still had plenty of strength left. I hung an engine and trans combo on it from a hoist overnight (only about half an inch off the wood support blocks) - single loop, not double loop - so full weight, not half weight. Still holding the next morning. These belts are a lot more robust than the manufacturer lets on by their recommended intevals. Had an Acura 5-cylinder that I recently replaced the belt after 120,000 miles (rec. interval 90,000). Belt still looked primo - no cracking, rubber still pliable. One thing I didn't see mentioned is a second reason why the water pump is replaced with timing belt, besides easy access with belt work. Often, a new timing belt, which probably has less flex in it than an older one, is likely to cause a marginal water pump to fail soon after belt replacement due to higher transient forces from belt on the bearing/bushing and seal.
I have a Volvo V70 with the 5 cylinder petrol engine. Unusually the advice on those is Not to change the original Volvo water pump if there are no leaks or play "While you are in there"with a belt change because the original pumps will often last the life of the engine, 200.000 to 300.000 miles. Also a lot of aftermarket pumps will develop leaks annoyingly quickly.
Our Hyundai dealer down under told me once that the next service would be $1,000, so I spent $90 on an electric "rattle" gun to get the crank pulley off and bought a kit which comprisec 1 Gates timing Belt plus an OEM Water pump plus tensioner bearings for around $180.00 and did this very time consuming job with more attention to what was needed as they would not have replaced the water pump.
Belts have the advantage of silent running, but the biggest advantage is that they do not need any lubrication. A chain has to be in an enclosed, sealed compartment so that oil cannot escape and cause a leak. Chains also have to have guides that keep them tight, and those guides have nylon inserts to reduce noise. All those items can fail, causing major expensive repairs. Belts on the other hand have a much more finite life. 100k miles is REALLY stretching it [no pun intended] for most belts, which is quite a bit less than a chain. Belts also have to have a tensioner, though this is usually quite simple and reliable compared to chain tensioners/guides. Contrary to popular belief, belts rarely "snap". What happens is that they shear off a few rubber teeth and this causes timing to go way off, potentially destroying both heads and/or bending multiple valves. Changing a timing chain is a big big job; Changing a belt is far easier and cheaper. So which one is better? You decide. Great video!
Belt technology has come a long way had my honda 3.5 timing belt changed at the 7 year interval and it still looked new had about 80k. Ive seen a few honda v6 with 200k getting the original tb changed (wouldnt recommend that at all but many people neglect honda maintenance
Timing chains also have tensioners just as belts do. Honda Js and Ks both have tensioners. I guess it all depends on your interest in maintenance, I used to prefer chains but now prefer belts after learning about their duties.
@@CRAPO2011 K engine tensioners are usually fine as long as you maintain your oil, that's the key for those engines. They will stretch chains with improper OCI, not to mention the possibility of adding guide wear. I've seen and heard of more chains stretching and guide wear, by far, than tensioners failing. I think Ks are well built and designed, so oil burning isn't very common until high mileage, but again depending on maintenance. Cannot stress oil maintenance enough on them. Usually, from what I've gathered, oil burning isn't a problem with them until 250k plus and usually a result of pushing oil changes and/or carbon build up and anything else that can cause excessive ring wear. Of note J engines with VCM are super prone to burn oil, and honestly anything with cylinder deactivation, if you ever plan to buy something with cylinder deactivation be wary because it very likely burns oil on cylinder 3 (if it's a J engine). Pull that plug out, it's on the rear head closest to the driver side), and check for oil on the plug. Other things can cause that, but it's not unusual that it'll be burning oil, especially if the plug tube is free of oil but the plug electrode itself is oil soaked.
Often it’s not the timing belt that fails but something else like a pulley, water pump or crankshaft seal (causing oil to leak on the belt) causing failure. It’s best to do it all every 10 years or 100k miles. It’s cheap insurance. 😅 I also prefer a belt over a chain because it’s usually easier to replace and it is done regularly whereas a guide can often fail on a chain or a chain stretches or something else breaks and it’s really hard to repair in comparison to an engine with a timing belt.
Lexus LS is Top tier. Gives me a tingle everytime i see this model. Golden car. No doubt. Protip. If you see one white smoking check the steering pressure valve that is Piped to the intake vacuum. Its rarely a head gasket in this engine. I used to grab these up at auction for pennies. Would take to shop and disconnect or pinch the steer vac to diag and white smoke gone. Order steer pressure valve. Done.
Last year I had to replace the distributor on my 78 Datsun and after setting timing by hand, I drove it to a shop to dial in the timing. Guy at the desk had to check to see if they even had a timing light. They did but the charge was greater than I would have spent on a decent timing light.
Way back ... as a stupid high schooler, I had a Chevette. Timing belt broke. Later the passenger front wheel broke off. Then the crank pulley came off. Less than 60,000 miles on that 1.6 liter four banger of fury. Made me a Ford guy pretty much for 35 years.
The timing belt in my volvo 940 turbo went when i was on a little trip a few days ago, sheared a few teeth. Thankfully, it's one of the easiest vehicles to replace the belt ever. Took it all apart on a mountain pass (to check if the crank gear was ok), waited for the belt for 5 days, put it back on in a tad over an hour. Found out i missed a tooth, fixed it, and off i went, and i'd never done this before. This happened because "it's a non-interference engine, who cares if it fails", and it was after this happened that i thought of the belt being just 2 years old, but having done over 100K km, in a car that makes twice the stock power.
I am pretty sure my 1983 F250 300-6 had timing gears and not a chain or belt. I did not work on cars back then so.... But I am understanding that gears are considered noisier than chains which are considered noisier than belts.... and that is the main reason for timing belts, they are quieter... Yes? No? So many cars went to timing belts in the 80's and 90's and have now gone back to chains. I remember when the timing guides on my 85 Toy (22RE) shattered, it was remarkably easy to change the entire set in less than a day with hand tools.... The hardest part seemed to be getting the oil pan off to clean out the debris from the guide.....
Great video Wizard. The only thing I'll add is belts are generally cheaper for the design, but they're also lighter and have less inertia - hence the use by Ferrari etc. Separately and important to add to your illustration of the damaged belt is that those inner cords can fail WITHOUT the rubber cracking, so change the belt to the schedule. It can look ok and be on the point of breaking. This also reflects the need to replace a belt if the water pump fails - you can't see the damage done to the belt internals caused by the sticking/seized pump.
Yeah I looked into what it would take to replace the belt in my mini van and it was a very quick nope! Cramped working space because you have to do it through the wheel well and lots of parts to replace along with the belt. It doesn't look impossibly hard, but I don't want the liability of grenading the engine because I slipped up.
I had a 2000 honda crv. when I bought the car the seller mention I should change the belt but I never did for over a year. well I had the parts and was going to change it the next day when the belt broke on me when I was driving to my friends house. lucky I was driving slow(under 15) and a low rpm so it didnt do any damage to the engine. I just put it in N and coasted it down hill back to my home. lol
I remember when I bought a new Acura Integra back in the late 80’s, and when I hit 90,000 miles, I had to spend almost $400 😂 to have my timing belt and pump replaced. The cheep old days 😂
THANK YOU Car Wizard! I have learned so much watching your channel over the years. I'm not an auto mechanic, I actually have a meteorology degree and teach middle school science. But I love to tinker and explore "how things work," and this series is perfect.
Love to hear science is still taught in the US - when I hear of all these crazy flat earthers denying all of science - and invariably being absolutely unable to work with numbers, with formulas, or have the ability to imagine 3-dimensional correlations or analyze in their head a "when this is so, then what are the consequences scenario?"
I think the most important thing to bring over to kids is that physics (or chemistry or biology or...) is not something theoretical where you learn the answers by heart to get the grades, but is something that is connected with your life, what you can use, what applies in everyday life. Often experiences you make in everyday life put into numbers.
That when you hang soggy pants on a washing line, why it sags through most when you put it in the middle and way less when put at the sides is the parallel of forces you can draw out on a sheet of paper.
Or how forces add up to resulting forces - for my gravity denying flat earthers how gravity and centrifugal forces combine, taking a bucket with water on a string and swing it, you can create a flat water surface in the bucket that is oriented in any kind of direction compared to the flat water surface outside the swirled bucket, including upside down. Just one force (centrifugal force) more dominant than the other, that is all it needs. Water conforms it shape and surface orientation to the forces at work. Be it gravity, centrifugal force, cohesion, adhesion, air resistance for falling drops, all combines.
Sorry to interfere in your work, but maybe that gives one idea or two.
I have a friend that was a meteorologist, too, who went on an expedition into the deepest valley on earth to study a strange wind there, that went only in one direction with up to 50 mph (usually thermal winds revert direction over the day). Even though the valley floor was on 9,000 feet, it is no problem to have a valley 15,000 foot deep when the K2 with 28,000 feet is on one side.
They could not use balloons for their measurements as the winds would have blown them too much sideways instead of vertical. So my friend used his hobby, RC model airplanes and developed a high-altitude-optimized electrically powered glider for that. They climbed up to 7,500 feet above ground, had special telescopic glasses that Zeiss had made for them so that they could still see the plane at that height.
Science combined with fun, hobby, exotics (Tibet) and adventure.
My very first automotive mechanical experience was changing the timing chain and gears on my dad's 67 Chrysler Newport. The 383 sitting in that cavernous engine bay was simplicity itself to work on. A Chilton manual from the library, a few very basic tools and the replacement parts was all a novice needed to do the job. My how times have changed!
Way to complex now....Thank goodness EVs are replacing these relics!
Mechanical engineering
Chrysler American Big Automotive Car 🚗
I remember many a time going to our local library to photocopy pages of Chilton's or Motor Manuals. Beat buying those entire books.
@@nononsenseBennett 🙄
Another thing I learned about timing chains (the hard way) is that if you don't change your engine oil enough, it stretches the chain and the chain will actually jump off the sprocket, which is incidentally how my Rav4 died.
Yeah, you really need to be on top of maintenance with timing chains.
Modern direct injection engines put more stress on them too due to running the high pressure fuel pump and the extra soot that gets into the oil from direct injection.... Sort of like diesel engine soot).
If you want to get long life from a modern engine don't follow the "oil change reminder" in the car... Just change it every 5k (or earlier if you drive less).
It doesn't matter what you drive. Change the oil at or BEFORE the reccomended interval. If you don't, you are doing permenant damage to your engine and risking catostrophic failure.
I always change the oil every 5,000 miles now my 2015 Dodge Dart SXT with 2.4 litter have over 306,000 miles with
@@surferdude4487 Right, I bought the car used, and that was one of the first things I did. But when the mechanic took off the cover, the sludge was a nice, thick coat.
This is especially true for the long chains of DOHC motors. When Lexus switched to the UR V8s with chains like the 4.6L and to a lesser extent in the 5.0L, they had problems with the timing chain tensioners.
I had a belt snap on a 91 Honda Civic when my son took my keys and tried to start it up. Fortunately it didn’t start. We took it to a hobby shop on our base, found TDC, matched a mark on the cam gear to the crank pulley, removed a engine mount, installed the belt, ran a compression check, and drove it for years. But it was nowhere as complex of an engine than the ones you were working on. No matter how much you know, you should keep your mind open and learn from others. Good video !
I changed a timing belt on the side of the road once. It took a couple hours and cost less than 50 bucks with a new tensioner. My Volvo 240 non interference B230 motor was so easy to work on.
I’m in CA and wish you were closer.
Your thoroughness, honesty, professionalism and pride in your work is why I enjoy your channel. It’s refreshing.
I have had one bad experience after another with shops here and paying $150-$200 an hour in labor.
Videos like this are SUPER important. If you watch car videos casually like I do you pick this stuff up over time and you have those random "ohh well that makes sense" moments but with videos like this you can learn what something is, why it is and what the correct processes are for replacement.
Thanks for making this!
Thank you Car Wizard,
Great explanation for those who don't understand!
Hi from the tropics in Thailand 🙂
Thank you car wizard, You are amazing. I love your channel
As a mechanic it does make me feel frustrated when customers start to question my abilities & my diagnosis. I totally understand the financial pressure customers are under & I will usually do what I can to help out where possible. However these are complex machines and therefore need maintenance. So thank you for your incredibly helpful videos.
Thank you wizard this was a great video and a great learning tool for those that don't know what a timing belt/chain is. It brings home the fact that you just can't keep driving on an old timing belt, and often when people hear the term belt they assume that no damage could be done if it breaks. Keep on making these show and tell videos they are fantastic.
Depends if engine is interference or not
Wizard, as a non-gear head, this video is awesome. I will keep this video to forward to my friends when they ask about timing belt replacements.
Wizard did a good job, he forgot one reason why water pump need to be replaced, worned water pump can locked itself which mean that timing belt will rubbing on seized water pump, it will break which also mean dead engine.
@@altergreenhorn That happened to me ended up with some bent valves
Bruh, the fact car wizard has only gotten four of these cars in his shop speaks to just how good they are.
Hater...
They aren't that common any more. They never really were so I wouldn't expect too many. Heck I don't even have a census of what he's worked on. Four seems like a lot tbh.
How many are left in roadworthy condition?
Of those that are left in the area, why do you assume The Wizard has worked on all of them?
The 1uz was on the top 10 engine list pretty much it's whole life.
@@williamegler8771 everyone that's maintained by a slightly sane person. There are 3-4 in the lot where I work and all but 1 are daily drivers. The one that's not commonly driven is because the own has like 10 cars. But it still runs and he moves it occasionally
That's a great explanation.
You'll have to explain "interference engine" so that people understand the danger of an engine loosing timing.
I second that request. I was hoping he'd cover "interference" and "non-interference" in this vid but he went deeper into the function than I thought, and I guess time was an issue. Hopefully he'll cover them in the next one.
An interference engine is one where the pistons will smash into the valves if they're out of time (i.e. timing belt broken). Not all engines will do this and some will clear the valves such as some old Vauxhall engines.
Also important is the quality of the replacement Timing Belt. I would use Gates Brand every time. They have a long history of belt-making. Forget the 'cheapies' when your engine is at stake!
@@peterduxbury927 I always opt for the best....not necessarily the most expensive.....but the best replacement parts.
In my book Gates is gold!
@@adotopp1865 And the Mazda FS engine, as well as the Ford CVT.
As some one who loves cars but has utterly no idea what he's looking at under the hood this is perfect. Keep these videos coming
Hello Mr Wizard - You did not mention that some heavy duty engines (Isuzu diesel engines or F1 formula race engines, etc) instead of belts or chains use timing gears, that are the most reliable way, but at the same time the most expensive and loudest. But I can see why these were skipped - due to being very rare. Otherwise - top notch information!
You beat me to it. I have had motorcycles with gear driven cams and they were amazing. mostly Honda v4s but one was a 400cc in line 4 liquid cooled motor with gear driven cams.
While I knew what you were talking about, I love your videos for the fact that even if I don't know or someone else doesn't know, you take the time to show us without making us feel stupid. Thank you for being that type of channel. I'm almost positive I will never work on a Ferrari or Lambo, but those videos are very interesting to me also. Take care.
In California, all cars are required by law to go at least 105,000 miles before the belt has to be replaced, it can last longer than that, but the minimum is 105,000 miles.
thank you for making these basic instructional videos for people with limited mechanical skills and abliities, they are appreciated.
Excellent; professor Wizard ! You explained it like a pro ... very concise & clear !
A couple timing belts ago I Changed my 4A-FE timing belt, somehow got the cam gear timing off by ONE tooth. Engine coughed, sputtered, backfired, would not start. Till i slipped the top of belt off, the cam gear moved back one tooth (as if it was spring loaded), slipped the belt back on and fired right up, runs smooth to this day.
You are spot on in regards to changing a belt driven water pump at the same time. The new belt will have different tension characteristics that will change the stress on the bearing and seal of the used pump and cause a fail in short order. One week on the car I learned from....
This is a wonderful video!!!! It's about time someone addressed the timing belt/chain sequence and issues. I know you did mention it in the video, but it's important to distinguish the difference between an interference vs a non-interference engine. People need to be aware that failure on an interference engine is catastrophic. Also can't stress enough that belts and the water pump need to be replaced at certain intervals, I replace mine at 90K intervals on my Highlander
I have had two LS400s and the first UCF-10 car with the 1UX-FE was a non-interference engine, but the one from 1997, the UCF-20 in the U.K. was an interference engine. I had the timing belts changed on both, because I always seem to get landed with that job!
More technical vids!!! This is a great change from looking at cars, its always great to have more professional discussions for the car community
Excellent explanation and demonstration about timing belts and chains! I have a basic understanding of what their purpose is, but I've never actually seen them. Much appreciated!
Glad there are people such as yourself wizard to educate the uneducated about vehicles. Thank you and thank you for your service..
Anyone who has owned that car has started it with the engine on. You can never tell if that car is running or not! Amazing Machines!
While I already know this, I think you did an excellent job for all the greenhorns out there. To the point, and easy to understand. They should call you "Professor Wizard".
Hey Wizard, thank you! I really appreciate this style of instructional videos. I never pretend to be an expert, but by doing as much auto care as I can myself certainly keeps my BMW repair/maintenance/upgrade costs (more) affordable. Not only are you saving me some money, but you're helping me know when I actually need to take my car to a professional.
Nice to bring the topic down to a level that non-mechanical people could easily understand & learn. Great presentation.
I didn´t even know what a timing chain was and now I am conviced that I can change it by my own on my car. Thank you so much
I can't get enough of Car Wizard's educational videos. Makes me want to be an even better enthusiast with decent education.
I changed the timing belt myself in my 1987 Chevy Sprint (60k mile interval), but that had a simple SOHC 3-banger and it didn't require much disassembly to get to it. Believe me, I double and triple checked the timing marks were perfectly aligned before I buttoned it all up, then said a quick prayer before turning the key 😀 The next 2 vehicles I owned had chains, so no change interval and didn't need to get them replaced. The 2 after that had belts, but by then everything was far more complex so I paid to get them done. Now I'm back to chains so hopefully no replacement.
Even with 30+ years of experience in IT, I will never pass on an opportunity to hear an expert talk about subjects I know well, since there's always something you can learn. So anybody should watch this video, if for nothing else to get a look at a beautiful Ferrari V8.
i changed the timing belt on a gf's sprint in the 90s when she needed a water pump
I agree very stressful on the first start up.😅
@@perpetualgrin5804 indeed stressful on first attempt. I had that feeling when I first installed induction cooktop in my previous home. One wire wrong and it could have catastrophic consequences. Checked all of multiple times.
I haven't done a belt change yet but I'm confident i can do it. I also have a Hayes car manual explaining how to do it properly. Luckily I don't need to remove the engine mount to reach the belt. That would really be a step to far for diy.
Hey Wizard, thanks for a great tutorial, you explain things clearly & easy to understand!!! This is the Wizard's college of mechanical knowledge!!! 👍👍🙂🎈
Ya know, 45+ Years ago , after growing up with 2 strokes, small engines & tractors, I was introduced to a small block timing chains... And I wondered what was wrong with timing gears? Then 10 years later a timing BELT?? Who were these mentally deficit engineers?!? Lol. Plastic chain guides? Nylon gears? Inside a Real motor?? Amazing what they've dreamed up in the last half a century... Great tutorial, everyone needs education... Thanx !
I'm glad you made this. I recently purchased a 2007 Golf R32 and it's got chains. And apparently the repair is around £2.5k compared to the belt which I usually pay £450-£500
It's a lot more work to replace the chain(s), because they are internal to the engine. That means there will be cast cover-plates to be removed, the chains and guides cost more, cland there's likely to be a more expensive tensioner to replace. It all has to be put back, taking great care to make sure it is oil-tight.
On a well designed engine with a timing belt it ought to be designed with it being a service item in mind. Sadly a lot of manufacturers ignore that part by cramming so much into an engine bay.
Nb. Modern timing belts are way better than those 30 years ago. There are now things like Kevlar available.
Video approved wizard, perfect timing, click.
Thank you, Wizard! This was a very informative video - you should do more of these types of videos, as you explain complex technical issues in a very straightforward manner. 👍
i gotta tell ya. owning a Lexus ls400 that is paid off with all maintenance done is a real treat. thanks so much car wizard!
I've had several older Hondas that required belt 'service'. Thanks for showing what and why that has to be done.
The Knowledge no mechanic shares in public forum
both are good, they both have been used for decades threw many car companies, it all comes down to how hard the vehicle is abused and treated, then doing maintenance so they both last for years, in the end most consumers dont care how they work or why, just when they break and need repair by you, big bucks everywhere $$$$$$. i could remember when folks said the chain was best, no the belt is best, were in a hype time of chains, now that were all repairing timing chains and variable cams, the timing belt sounds good again. the exstent of the wizzards video here exsplaining the depth of how many things are related to the chain or belt is very well done, like he said no one wants to understand this type of repair. nice video.
When I bought my Volvo XC90 with an D5 5cyl inline diesel the car had 170.000km on the guage, and the interval for changing the timingbelt was 180.000km so I asked the Volvo dealer to change it before we go got it and put the cost on the bill, it feels much safer to have it done in time than spend another $1200 in just a few months!
My wife was stranded on a freeway, about 15 miles from home, in the dark and the rain, when the timing belt snapped on our 5-year-old 1976 Pinto snapped with about 36K miles on the odometer. Fortunately, a kindly lady gave her a lift to a phone booth (remember those?), and we had AAA towing. Non-interference engine, $50 repair in early 1980s dollars.
A few years later I was stranded on the same stretch of freeway, in the opposite direction, when the timing chain on my 1973 Chevy V-8 stripped the plastic(!) teeth on the cam sprocket. Interference engine, new lifters and cams, $700 repair in late 1980s dollars.
I was thinking about how I'd like a teaching type video from the car wizard the other day. I clicked so fast when I saw this in my feed
Very good video! Manufacturers seem to have gone back to chains now. I had a 1982 Ford Ranger with the 2.3 liter 4. It had a timing belt and I pushed it to far. The belt broke and left me stranded. Luckily, the 2.3 is a non-interference engine, so no engine damage. Later, I bought the special Ford tool and successfully changed the belt a few times. Even on that engine, it was an all day job(at least for me). you had to remove all the accessories to get to the timing belt cover.
I have done it on Mercedes, Audi and others. The Audi was a pain in the ass, a 2005 TTS. The older MB (1958) is a snap. It uses a chain. Promised myself I would never own an Audi. I have had four of them since. Audi has changed to a chain. Chains can “stretch.” What happens is that each link will wear a little and there is a lot of them. Suppose there is 100 links in the chain and each one wears 0.001”. Then the chain would be one inch longer. Eventually the tensioner can’t keep up with the longer chain. Plus the timing is getting off.
My arithmetic was off a decimal place. Sorry.
Love the video, especially when I has 2 timing chains replaced on my 2004 F150 a year ago
I just replaced the timing chain on my 2011 mercedes E350 CDI at 403k km (250k miles). It cost me a bit over 300€ to do. I didn't have any problems with the original chain but decided to change it for peace of mind.
I had to change many timing belts off of 70-90s work trucks. Easy peasy, all you need is one wrench and a crowbar.
The newer vehicles I will not touch. It's stupidly complicated.
You made a video about timing belts a few years ago, but this one goes a lot more in depth. I like it
That's a great tutorial Wizard. At 12:30 you could point out the 'chain tensioner',(8 o'clock in view), sticking out so far that there's silver on the cylinder showing,and it's passed it's useable position because of chain stretch and guide wear.There should be 1/2 that showing.
Thanks wizard. Old short chains on American OHV V8, V6 were very reliable, except some with nylon sprockets. Long and multiple chains on DOHC engines with high DI fuel pump loading are subject to stretching, tensioner and guide issues. Should be inspected as precaution to total failures. SOHC non interference engine W/O DI using interval replaceable timing belt is good, because timing belt designed to be replaced and if belt breaks, no valve damage. Some old engines with cam in block just used two lubricated gears; no chains, no belt fears.
I remember changing the timing chain on my 1939 Buick straight eight in 1963. Timing chain was very inexpensive & simple to replace.
Bought a LS in 2021. I made sure it was chain driven not belt driven. Now I know what I’m going to deal with when the water pump needs to be replaced. I’ll make sure to check those chain guides as well. Thanks Mr Wizard !
Excellent tutorial for those who think they are getting ripped off at the shop.
"How can a $100 part cost $2k to fix?".
This is why.
I have a 91 model ls400 still working strong but i have a new water pump and timing belt in store as those are the only big maintenance these need around every 100.000 miles or so do this 10 times and you are at the million club :)
Christmas Day 2012 at around 11pm... I learnt all about timing belt failure! Thankfully I was 1 mile from home any my Dad came to tow me home!
Back then, I knew nothing about timing belts, hence why it hadn’t been done when it should!
Timing chain for the win more reliable and robust
Agreed
Excellent video Wizard, you should do more of these, you had great examples to show us. Well done, I understand timing belts and chains, but still neat to see an expert go through the fine details. Also, my friend has teenage boys I sent him this video to teach his boys the difference. I like videos that are straight to the point, but yet explains everything so well. That is what is great about your shop you have the everyday drivers cars to the exotics. A++ on this one Wizard.
Thank You Sir ! As a retired Volvo Parts Manager I appreciate your " Public Safety / Service Lesson " ! Very well explained and knowledge that most young and some older like myself cannot grasp ! I will be sharing for all my family and friends that need an education ! Its not just gas and oil changes that are needed ! Some as you have shown cannot even change the oil on their cars ? Hope you were able to get those headers for your jaguar chevelle that I called you about 2 plus years ago and spoke with you about a source ? Any new bus updates ? Thanks again for your public service announcement ! A faithful subscriber ! God Bless ! P.s. Hello to your partner in life Mrs. Wizard !
Very good video showing the intricacies of taking apart those babies to change their timing belts/chains. People think they are easy (like a serpentine belt)...they are NOT!
I had an old (1986) Honda Accord. EFI, auto. I replaced the timing belt (it had been done by the dealer before, I had the paperwork). The crank timing belt mark on that engine is on the flywheel at the back of the engine block (marked white with a bit T stamped beside it). There was another mark (colored red) that was for the IGNITION timing (15 deg. if memory serves right). It turned out the timing belt was timed to the RED mark!
(Incidentally, the engine would rev fine up to about the 5k rpm or so, beyond that it would start sputtering, which I had thought it was some sort of rev limiter in action) New belt timed to the righT spoT and no more "rev limiter"
Hi car wizard, a point you might like to mention is that although chains, providing that service intervals are observed they can be counted in thousands of miles, the rubber belts age as well. Example my Rover 75 only had 37000 klm on the engine, but it was the original so 23 years old. Something to consider.
My first knowkedge of timing was as a kid i was on s trip with my grandpa coming back after a car show to San Jose in his 57 Chevy BelAir. It had just won 1st place. The timing chain broke somewear outside of Petaluma. The car only had 26,000 miles in 1980.
Grandpa was a mechanic so he flagged down a driver who drove us to an autoparts store. To buy tools & parts. Took us back and we fixed it in the side of highway 101.
The good ole days.
My old truck has all steel timing gears! No belts or chains here, just a 2:1 ratio gearset. The camshaft actually spins in reverse to normal because of this, but it's all designed that way. It's an old International Harvester 345 motor. A little noisier (but with no roof, no doors, can't hear much but the wind anyway!), but extremely long-lived. Don't know how many other manufacturers ever did this, but I thought it was interesting!
Generous Motors did in up to around 1950 as well as Ford unless I am mistaken.
They basically were good for the life of the engine.
Then they realized it made more profit to use chains as they wear out.
Ford's inline 300 used gears if I'm not mistaken. Diesels use them too.
I learned what a timing belt was back in 1990 while driving my 1986 Mazda 626. The engine died on the freeway and had no clue until towed to the shop. Oh, your belt snapped but your engine is non-interference so you are Ok. After that I changed my own and that car is so simple to do. Today the only car I have with a belt is a 91 Mazda 626 so still easy. All others have timing chains from 1965-2018.
I, for one, am glad that my 1GRFE comes with a timing chain. With proper lubrication, timing chains last for the life of the engine and more so nothing to worry about. Caveat being wrongly lubricated engine will destroy itself and the timing chain is usually the first to go.
Love when motorcycles are brought into car conversations. ❤
For motorcycles I have a Suzuki Vstrom, Royal Enfield Interceptor, and a Harley-Davidson Softail Deuce.
As my car of choice, always my Toyota 4runner. 2000 with 177,000 miles always runs strong.
Thank you, Car Wizard. I came up doing the old school timing light bit for adjusting the timing- along with feeler gauges for points and the like. I say the modern motors, though more complex, are better that the old days motors- much tighter tolerances and better alloys make them last so much longer if regular mountainous is practiced. I don't miss trying to figure out if the timing was off or the dwell angle or....
Agreed, I dont miss timing lights one bit
@@CarWizardhi
What a great little vid mate..thanks..
Great video a lot of people who are not mechanical in mind like a lot of us are that work on cars don’t understand but sometimes people just don’t understand how a internal combustion engine exactly works this might help explain to them why repairs cost do much now days compared to years ago they are more complex today than they were years ago and this video might just might help them understand that again great vid 👍👍👍
Awesome video very informative I had a stuck thermostat on my 2017 mercedes 250 cla. Expensive
Did my J-series timing belt 3y and 40k kms ago for $50, price of the belt, and the engine still works great. It's crazy how much you can save by learning a relatively simple skill.
Good choice to talk about a timing. Legendary 1uz is worlds easier to work than many many other cars ever made. Doesn't ever need to remove engine
The timing belt on a Toyota 4.2 turbo diesel is the easiest thing I’ve ever seen to change the belt. It’s on the outside of the engine and you just remove the plastic cover, line up the marks, release the tensioner (probably replace that while you’re in there), take off the old belt and fit the new, and then make sure everything is still lined up, cover back on, job done. We had that excellent motor in a 2004 Landcruiser 100 series.
It's almost the same on a Subaru, especially if it's a single cam. Just take the front covers off and replace the tensioner and the idlers. The access is so easy and the belt kit so cheap that the waterpump isn't a must to change if it's still fine on a low mileage car.
I've had two vehicles where the timing belt has snapped. One was a write-off and the other needed extensive (and expensive) repairs that took the dealership a month to complete (jerks). Learn from my irresponsibility: when it's time to change the belt/chain, CHANGE IT!
One of my cars is non-interference, used to have two (lost one in an accident 😔). There were so few that were, but I still look it up if I'm considering a used car.
My Ford 240 and 300 inline sixes all had gear to gear timing. Never had them fail!
Just replaced a timing belt on another 1UZ out of a SC400. That belt had 212,000 miles on it. It looked similarly, but still had plenty of strength left. I hung an engine and trans combo on it from a hoist overnight (only about half an inch off the wood support blocks) - single loop, not double loop - so full weight, not half weight. Still holding the next morning. These belts are a lot more robust than the manufacturer lets on by their recommended intevals. Had an Acura 5-cylinder that I recently replaced the belt after 120,000 miles (rec. interval 90,000). Belt still looked primo - no cracking, rubber still pliable.
One thing I didn't see mentioned is a second reason why the water pump is replaced with timing belt, besides easy access with belt work. Often, a new timing belt, which probably has less flex in it than an older one, is likely to cause a marginal water pump to fail soon after belt replacement due to higher transient forces from belt on the bearing/bushing and seal.
A lot of Honda vehicles especially V6 has never gone to a timing chain but belts why I guess it's cheaper to manufacturer
I have a Volvo V70 with the 5 cylinder petrol engine. Unusually the advice on those is Not to change the original Volvo water pump if there are no leaks or play "While you are in there"with a belt change because the original pumps will often last the life of the engine, 200.000 to 300.000 miles. Also a lot of aftermarket pumps will develop leaks annoyingly quickly.
Good work as usual. I learned back in the 80's how to replace timing belts on Hondas, then to Alfas. (Busso V6)
One of your best videos very informative and very thorough thank you
Our Hyundai dealer down under told me once that the next service would be $1,000, so I spent $90 on an electric "rattle" gun to get the crank pulley off and bought a kit which comprisec 1 Gates timing Belt plus an OEM Water pump plus tensioner bearings for around $180.00 and did this very time consuming job with more attention to what was needed as they would not have replaced the water pump.
Belts have the advantage of silent running, but the biggest advantage is that they do not need any lubrication. A chain has to be in an enclosed, sealed compartment so that oil cannot escape and cause a leak. Chains also have to have guides that keep them tight, and those guides have nylon inserts to reduce noise. All those items can fail, causing major expensive repairs.
Belts on the other hand have a much more finite life. 100k miles is REALLY stretching it [no pun intended] for most belts, which is quite a bit less than a chain. Belts also have to have a tensioner, though this is usually quite simple and reliable compared to chain tensioners/guides. Contrary to popular belief, belts rarely "snap". What happens is that they shear off a few rubber teeth and this causes timing to go way off, potentially destroying both heads and/or bending multiple valves.
Changing a timing chain is a big big job; Changing a belt is far easier and cheaper. So which one is better? You decide.
Great video!
Belt technology has come a long way had my honda 3.5 timing belt changed at the 7 year interval and it still looked new had about 80k. Ive seen a few honda v6 with 200k getting the original tb changed (wouldnt recommend that at all but many people neglect honda maintenance
Timing chains also have tensioners just as belts do. Honda Js and Ks both have tensioners. I guess it all depends on your interest in maintenance, I used to prefer chains but now prefer belts after learning about their duties.
@@HarleySLA how are the tensioners on the k series? Is it true somek series like to burn oil?
@@CRAPO2011 K engine tensioners are usually fine as long as you maintain your oil, that's the key for those engines. They will stretch chains with improper OCI, not to mention the possibility of adding guide wear. I've seen and heard of more chains stretching and guide wear, by far, than tensioners failing. I think Ks are well built and designed, so oil burning isn't very common until high mileage, but again depending on maintenance. Cannot stress oil maintenance enough on them. Usually, from what I've gathered, oil burning isn't a problem with them until 250k plus and usually a result of pushing oil changes and/or carbon build up and anything else that can cause excessive ring wear. Of note J engines with VCM are super prone to burn oil, and honestly anything with cylinder deactivation, if you ever plan to buy something with cylinder deactivation be wary because it very likely burns oil on cylinder 3 (if it's a J engine). Pull that plug out, it's on the rear head closest to the driver side), and check for oil on the plug. Other things can cause that, but it's not unusual that it'll be burning oil, especially if the plug tube is free of oil but the plug electrode itself is oil soaked.
Often it’s not the timing belt that fails but something else like a pulley, water pump or crankshaft seal (causing oil to leak on the belt) causing failure. It’s best to do it all every 10 years or 100k miles. It’s cheap insurance. 😅 I also prefer a belt over a chain because it’s usually easier to replace and it is done regularly whereas a guide can often fail on a chain or a chain stretches or something else breaks and it’s really hard to repair in comparison to an engine with a timing belt.
Lexus LS is Top tier. Gives me a tingle everytime i see this model. Golden car. No doubt. Protip. If you see one white smoking check the steering pressure valve that is
Piped to the intake vacuum. Its rarely a head gasket in this engine. I used to grab these up at auction for pennies. Would take to shop and disconnect or pinch the steer vac to diag and white smoke gone. Order steer pressure valve. Done.
I just bought TWO 2003 ES300s for under $5000. 170,000 miles. Luckily has timing belts, but non interference.
Even thou you might already know the ins and outs there’s always something new to learn 😬
wizard there is a few vehicles out there usin geardrive from the factory. just thought id throw that in to the mix.
I have no idea what they do, Wizard. Thank you for doing this video.
Last year I had to replace the distributor on my 78 Datsun and after setting timing by hand, I drove it to a shop to dial in the timing. Guy at the desk had to check to see if they even had a timing light. They did but the charge was greater than I would have spent on a decent timing light.
Thanks for the lesson in these belts. More of it please.
Way back ... as a stupid high schooler, I had a Chevette. Timing belt broke. Later the passenger front wheel broke off. Then the crank pulley came off. Less than 60,000 miles on that 1.6 liter four banger of fury. Made me a Ford guy pretty much for 35 years.
The timing belt in my volvo 940 turbo went when i was on a little trip a few days ago, sheared a few teeth. Thankfully, it's one of the easiest vehicles to replace the belt ever. Took it all apart on a mountain pass (to check if the crank gear was ok), waited for the belt for 5 days, put it back on in a tad over an hour. Found out i missed a tooth, fixed it, and off i went, and i'd never done this before. This happened because "it's a non-interference engine, who cares if it fails", and it was after this happened that i thought of the belt being just 2 years old, but having done over 100K km, in a car that makes twice the stock power.
I am pretty sure my 1983 F250 300-6 had timing gears and not a chain or belt. I did not work on cars back then so.... But I am understanding that gears are considered noisier than chains which are considered noisier than belts.... and that is the main reason for timing belts, they are quieter... Yes? No? So many cars went to timing belts in the 80's and 90's and have now gone back to chains. I remember when the timing guides on my 85 Toy (22RE) shattered, it was remarkably easy to change the entire set in less than a day with hand tools.... The hardest part seemed to be getting the oil pan off to clean out the debris from the guide.....
Great video Wizard. The only thing I'll add is belts are generally cheaper for the design, but they're also lighter and have less inertia - hence the use by Ferrari etc. Separately and important to add to your illustration of the damaged belt is that those inner cords can fail WITHOUT the rubber cracking, so change the belt to the schedule. It can look ok and be on the point of breaking. This also reflects the need to replace a belt if the water pump fails - you can't see the damage done to the belt internals caused by the sticking/seized pump.
Very informative in plain language. Thnx Wizard keep em coming
Yeah I looked into what it would take to replace the belt in my mini van and it was a very quick nope! Cramped working space because you have to do it through the wheel well and lots of parts to replace along with the belt. It doesn't look impossibly hard, but I don't want the liability of grenading the engine because I slipped up.
I had a 2000 honda crv. when I bought the car the seller mention I should change the belt but I never did for over a year. well I had the parts and was going to change it the next day when the belt broke on me when I was driving to my friends house. lucky I was driving slow(under 15) and a low rpm so it didnt do any damage to the engine. I just put it in N and coasted it down hill back to my home. lol
I remember when I bought a new Acura Integra back in the late 80’s, and when I hit 90,000 miles, I had to spend almost $400 😂 to have my timing belt and pump replaced. The cheep old days 😂