For all the people saying this was a cracked exhaust manifold leaking as stated in a TSB, the head gasket can be clearly seen in the video that it was blown, not the head itself. Happy to report that the car is back together with a new head gasket now. 100% leak free.
Engine was 100% fully designed and made by Mazda in Japan. Not made by Ford at all. This one is probably the worst Japanese engine ever made in history from Japan.
@@bobjackson4287 Anything without OHC's is usually very easy to do the head gaskets on. I remember my Dad doing the head gasket on old BMC & BL engines in a couple of hours from start to finish.
People need to watch the first video then - it was leaking coolant as fast as the owners could pour in - so obviously larger than some manifold seepage.
As a non-mechanic it astonishes me how a mechanic can remember how every single bolt and part goes back together and in what order.. simply unbelievable to me. Good mecanics must be like gold-dust, but who wouldn’t want to work for the Car Wizard..fantastic values.. well done
I had that same question until i started doing it myself...i have learned to not be hasty and those carts help a lot.and your brain is strange when reassembly..you just remember if you paid attention on disassembly.but i've learned alot from wizards videos
Also we don't. That's the who joke of " spare parts." But in all seriousness , it's not so much a exercise in memory as it is a game of Lego or a puzzle. Yes you have to have a general idea where everything goes and what order( sometimes you forget little steps and need to do work around or remove stuff again )but with each part installed you make sure all the hole are filled , all gaskets in place and all connections are connected before moving to the next. The big picture looks massive but just like eating a elephant, you start one little piece at a time.
You don't really have to remember how/where *every* bolt goes. It's much easier when things are organised and grouped and that's exactly what the carts do here. Also these days, with everyone having a cellphone camera handy can also take pictures as you go to understand what a given section or group looked like before you took it apart. Not to mention the diagrams and explode views in service manuals, service data, etc.
@@rolandm9750 Yea bolts are easy just bag and tag or zip tie them to said part. high quality camera phones tho are such a game changer as a tech. I take 3 pics right out of the gate left right and center of any major job i am doing that i have not done a lot of so at the end when i'm routing hoses and wiring harnesses i can just zoom in as needed and put everything right back in place without fussing with it going by the wire or hose memory.
Multiple shops quoted me around $5k to do head gaskets on the 2000 Malibu that I bought years ago for $2,500. Given that I was ready to junk it, I added some miracle in a can to the coolant. It held for another 20k plus miles.
The plastic inserts in the water jacket are to evenly distribute heat between the top and bottom of the cylinders, which in turn evens out the thermal expansion so that the width of the bore is consistent from top to bottom. They focus the flow of coolant to the top of the cylinder, where the combustion process causes the most of the heat to occur.
Mostly right, The casting of the engine block has a very rough surface, this causes cavitation in the coolant as it flows through the cylinder area of the block making "hot spots" in the block. Temperature variations of just 30 degrees F can cause block cracking and cylinder wall spalling. The easy and cheap solution was to force the water in a more laminar flow through the block which nearly completely eliminated hot spotting!
@Brad Graham That's true, although these inserts are specifically to concentrate the flow of coolant progressively more toward the tops of the cylinders, and this, in turn, is to even out the rate of thermal expansion. Older open deck designs didn't factor this in, and it was possible to seize the engine under certain conditions (mainly driving hard before the engine is warmed up) as the top of the cylinders and the pistons would expand faster than the bottom of the cylinders. An example of this was the early Alfa Romeo open deck designs.
@@19jacobob93 That is an introduction to what I abhor most, eurodesign! While european and british car manufacturers have great product, the over designed nature and (in the USA) over priced nature of those cars has meant to me that you should have your european or british car worked on somewhere else! I found a bad heater control valve on a Mercedes one time, a part that cost about 15 bucks for an american car and took a half hour to install, and saw that on the Mercedes it was dealer only 800 dollars, and in a location that was almost impossible to access without pulling out the entire dash and decided that they can go screw themselves at the Mercedes engineering dept! I actually told that customer to trade his over priced, over engineered piece of eurotrash on a good Cadillac! I don't like them either but they don't have vacuum actuated water valves that are price gouging the customer!
You were absolutely spot on about everything you stated with doing a big job like a head gasket And all the intricate parts and pieces that are involved in properly doing the job not just slapping it back together!! The detail that you described was absolutely perfect! Any customer that uses you guys has to be so grateful!!
It is simply scary ! And as mentioned below, $4000 seems to be a bargain for so much work ! I love your approach and your channel. You and Mrs Wizard really deserve your success!
Doubters eating crow and getting closer to a MILLION subs! As a longtime mechanic and shop owner myself, I'm really happy for you man. I love how you go about your business and I love your channel!
As a Mazda tech I can relate. I haven’t seen a head gasket leak yet, but I’ve done my fair share of these heads for the cracking issue. I take the engine out when I do them. They’re not all that bad to do, it’s just time consuming due to all the stuff that has to come off. Interesting find about those coolant plugs. Makes me wonder if the heads are actually cracking or if it’s just those plugs leaking.
Ex Mazda master here.Did a few of these and they were all a plug in the head as per the tsb.Just resealed the plugs with a Loctite product.Now 2.2 Diesels are a different story.Did numerous (like 35-40 odd). Always head gaskets.Did one in place, only one.Always dropped the power plant.Engine and trans.So much easier and quicker.Had a set up like this guy though,with the trolley and trays.Every thing set in sequence along with the bolts/ nuts with each item.
Was just gonna say this. Seems like it would be easier to just drop the whole setup out the bottom. That being said, i see no reason for it to be this much of a pain and even less reason for so much tech on a engine. Its like they make it complicated for the sake of being complicated. Simplicity should be key in all vehicles.
@@CelicAWDyou can thank the democrats and their years of industry regulations and decrees on high to get another 2 mpg more ...outta an engine.It gets ridiculous everytime their in power
As someone not mechanically inclined at all (but enjoys these videos), this would an absolute nightmare for me to do lol. Respect to those mechanical genius out there
here in australia as a mazda tech all our dealership would have to do is submit a tech case to mazda beacuse its a manufacturing defect and the customer would get a brandnew long block installed at no charge yes you have to transfer everything onto the new engine but its alot easier to do with the engine and trans dropped out on a engine dissasambely table 🙂
A few years ago I was given an older Honda civic that had bent exhaust valves on one cylinder so to get to them it was basically a head gasket job. I had the head off in maybe 45 minutes working leisurely with just basic hand tools and having never turned a wrench on a Honda before. This is crazy to see how much cars have changed.
I believe it. I used to have a 89' CRX-Si. Got home from work on a Friday evening. Let the car cool off. Pull valve cover, unbolt intake and header. Use bungee to hold header out of the way. Slide timing belt off cam gear. Unbolt camshaft, unbolt head. Saturday morning took to machine shop. Made sure everything was straight. Put it all back together by the afternoon.
@Zachary Adams I know what you mean. I still have my 98 Civic. Works flawless. My dad got a 2014 civic. I just thought how lucky it must be to have a warranty lol.
You have to replace the head. Alot of 2018 mazda cx5 and cx9s have defects in the cylinger head that can cause them to leak out of the head gasket, especially around the center exhaust manifold stud. Mazda has updated the casings. If you put the same head back in its going to leak again.
One thing of note it was the previous MZR that was 'shared' with Ford. The skyactiv engine was an 'in-house' development and was around the time Ford were progressively getting rid of their shares in Mazda.
Did Wizard have it wrong about this car being a Ford engine? In the previous video on this vehicle, he said it is actually a Ford 2.5L Turbo, not a Mazda. He said it’s not really a foreign car and as far as Magic Mike is concerned, he is working on a Ford. He even said, “there are so many parts on this car that say fomoco [Ford Motor Company]. Ford this, Ford that, Ford owns Mazda.” I heard that Mazda designed Skyactive in-house, but maybe they copied lots of the Ford engine design elements and used Ford components? Maybe it’s not that unique and they exaggerated how different Skyactive is?
22 cx9 signature here - if my memory serves this engine was indeed mazda stepping away from the ford partnership with their own development. an additional detail is that the exhaust valve openings for each cylinder were done in such a way to minimize turbo lag, and that exhaust manifold configuration was part of that - you can find a great video here: watch?v=UCEarzwakgc
Great video. I watch Mazda vids because we have 2 Mazdas in the family. Fortunately no turbochargers on either of them. It looks like you have a very skilled mechanic on that job.
I recently had the head gasket done on my car. Under 1000$ for the whole deal and the mechanics only had to remove a medium size box of parts. I love older cars they are mostly infinitely repairable.
I'm definitely with you on the over complication of modern engines. I've been saying for the past 10 years that there won't be a vintage car market for cars of this generation. You won't be able to get the parts you need (especially the electronics) when the vehicle is 10-15 years old.
@@KrGsMrNKusinagi0 idk the LS swap still needs electronics and that right there is the killer. might be able to be done now but what about 10 years from now or 20 years? anything with a "computer" isn't something to hang a hat on for long term reliability. (I worked in electronic repair and had a shed full of electronic equipment that was junked due to unobtainium parts so no matter how much you wanted to fix you just can't.)
I think I can count on 1 hand carburated vehicles I see in any week. they have turned to dust or if they had value are hiding in a garage. an old car isn't reliable just because it's 50 years old and gets driven 20 miles a week to go to a car show
@@DrRyan82994 there's a very large grey area between carburetors and current VVT, DI engines. I think you assumed a bit much. That being said, I own a 55 year old car with a carburetor and have owned it for over 30 years. It doesn't go see a mechanic. I am the mechanic. If you can get a carb rebuild kit (thanks Holley) you will never need to pay someone to mess with the fuel system again. So yeah. I stand by my statement. The car has it's original wiring harness and zero electronics. But the sweet spot seems to be late 90's thru early 2010 or so. Port fuel injection with no VVT, DOD or other alphabet mumbo jumbo. And certainly NO massive touch screens or haptic BS (VW). And I'm not just talking reliability, but longevity and durability. All those things are backsliding in today's cars.
For those wondering, book time says 18.3 hours for a headgasket change on this car but only 11.4 hours to remove and install an engine. Some cars the dealer will replace the entire motor when a headgasket fails under warranty for just that reason.
@@rolandm9750 It's a remanufactured or used motor, of course. All plainly stated in the fine print. :). In the end, they pocket more money and you get someone else's problem. Yet another reason to stay away from the stealerships.
I've worked at a dealership over 10 years and the only time I've seen a used engine put in under warranty was an aftermarket warranty. We'd price out doing it right, the warranty company says nope you're getting a used one then a pallet shows up one day with the engine of their choice. Usually with the harness cut up, broken sensors, leaking gaskets, etc. Whether or not the aftermarket warranty company will pay to fix their junk heap or not depends on the company but usually not. So, of course, we're up front with the customer about it, they throw a fit, we tell them to call the warranty company, warranty company won't fix it right, so we send them down the road with the aftermarket warranty engine and the advice to bring it back in a month or two because their "new" engine is having whichever specific problem and we end up getting approval on the repair after the fact. It's a massive headache for everyone involved. As far as manufacturers? No, a bad head gasket is getting changed. I can speak for GM, Toyota, VW/Audi, Hyundai, and Subaru when I say they don't do full long blocks so even if you get a new engine it's just the shortblock (no head) so a full engine replacement is out of the question unless there's something wrong in the bottom end. Head gasket jobs get head gasket replacements unless it's an engine where the gasket failure leads to further engine damage (emulsifying the oil then they continue to drive until they spin a bearing).
@@plektosgaming well if the stealership charges you $4k for a head gasket then they're charging you $200 an hr for a $50 gasket. But then again $200 an hr is standard in most repair shops.
@@zlonewolf Unfortunately so. I remember working on my old Mercedes 230S and it was a normal i-6 with carbs and you could have the entire head off in 30 minutes. Now everything is assembled and practically glued together like an iPad. It takes 6-8 hours just to get TO the head and nobody seems to care about servicing anything when they design it.
Our 2016 CX-9 had the dreaded "head leak" last year and it cost us about $3K, even with a "courtesy" credit from Mazda NA. Our CX-9 had 78K miles, so we were outside the warranty. This is happening to many of the 2.5L Turbo SkyActiv engines (there are many threads about this problem on the various online Mazda forums, but there are apparently not enough cases for Mazda to do a full-on recall). This is a result of a poor design and the TSB explains some of the issue, but Mazda has never really posted anything (that I have seen) as to exactly WHY this is happening and what they did to the "revised" head design to "fix" the problem. Our car now has about 85K and it seems to be running fine. I would like to offer a shout out to Ourisman Mazda Rockville (MD) as they were really great through this whole process. Unfortunately, these Mazdas are ticking time bombs, so any used CX-9, CX-5, or Mazda 6 with the 2.5L turbo up until the 2021 model year (with VINs as indicated in the TSB) that have not had the head replaced already may have this problem. That's probably tens of thousands of cars in which this problem could rear it's ugly "head". (Sorry, I couldn't resist)😄 Buyer BEWARE! (apologize for the double post)
Recalls are for safety issues, not for reliability issues. Best case scenario there'll be a class action lawsuit but those only end up lining the pockets of attorneys and typically very particular circumstances which have to apply for you to get a payout. Check out the lawsuits regarding the 3 valve Ford Triton engines as a good example of what to expect if anything ever happens.
Thanks @car wizard for sharing this. This is not just a problem for Skyactiv 2.5 turbo, but a similar problem for 2.2 diesel engine too. Got mates who drove these got blown head gaskets, and now I understand why the recommendation is to lift a new/second-hand engine in.
@@Duraputer I doubt it does… this doesn’t seem to be a common issue at all, it happens but not common. I have a Mazda CX-5 2016 with 167,000km on it and seems to be doing fine. There are a lot of the 2.5L non-turbos out there and if it was a major issues we would have heard about it. Even Wizard mentioned in the last video that he didn’t see this as a common issues on the program they use. Maybe this was just an unlucky car.
@@Duraputer sky active has been out (in Canada) since 2012, so it’s been 13 years and I haven’t heard this being a common issue. Though I think the 2.5 skyactive was a 2013/2014 thing, original skyactive was only 2.0L. You can always get a lemon, but overall these engines seem pretty solid. The Gen2 Mazda 3 with blue rings inside the headlights were all Skyactive. Easiest way to tell besides the badge on the back.. all Gen3 and Gen4 Mazda3 are skyactive, and gen3 mazda3 started in 2014 so those cars are over 9 years old and I’m pretty sure are still running well. Maintenance is key and keeps a car running but sometimes you can hit some bad luck. I just bought a 2023 Mazda CX-5 2.5L non turbo and have no regrets, my 2016 (bought in 2015) CX-5 2.5L non turbo is doing fine with 167,000km on it.. only thing I had to get fixed so far was the rear Strut mounts… the aluminum mounts got brittle and needed to be changed and unfortunately on the CX5 it wasn’t cheap. Paid a shop $900 ($400 pets, rest labour plus did oil change) to get it done, struts and mounts, dealer wanted $650 per set (so $1300 for parts) and another $400 in labour… so like $1700+tax. I could have done it in the driveway but just didn’t have the time. The new 2023 CX-5 looks like it has aluminum strut mounts in the back like my 2016 but they seem much thicker material (similar to my replacement ones) the originals were pretty thin walled. Struts we’re still okay but everything was rusted where it attaches and the strut had to be cut off. I live in Canada, it’s pretty common here. I can also tell you that hose Rust modules they sell don’t work at all, had it installed from dealer when I bought this car and had a normal amount of rust on the bottom like a car without the module.
These vehicles are designed for ease of assembly not ease of repair. You’d think with planned obsolescence being the strategy, you’d plan to fix the part. But they would rather you just buy a whole new vehicle.
Also laws for protection of the drivers and pedestrian's. Parts need to be flexible and give in or else you die at certain speeds. that needs space and rearrangement of the interior. you have limitations on size of your car or else you personal car would be the size of a 18 wheeler truck to make everything easy and accessible. A car is not just about you. you dont live in the world alone. and it did not just start spinning the day you where born. you got legacy roads and sizes that your car needs to fit in and and and. Designing a car and fitting all regulations and demands in is not easy task. Easy of assembly, my ass. You think its easy to assemble 1000 parts in compression to 100 parts? Yeah always blame some else.
I spent years as a Mazda mechanic I left at the end of 2011 a year or two before the skyactive stuff came out but I found that sometimes it was easier to drop the engine out of the bottom to do some stuff on certain vehicles I could have an engine and trans out of a Mazda 3 in an hour an automatic transmission replacement paid around 5 hours I would be done in 3 hours by dropping it as an assembly and swap it over on the bench the wiring was set up in such a way you unplugged a few connectors and undo a few ground bolts and set it on top of the engine
This is how old VW bugs and almost all Porsches work - you simply drop the entire engine and transaxle and pull it apart on a bench. Kind of inventive, if you think about it.
The worst thing, is that all those cables, sensors, pipes and plastic parts are still the originals. After disassembling and assembling all that "materials" they have to pray that nothing will be broken by fatigue or stress in a few months. It's a play with fate and a huge responsibility for the mechanic. Undoubtedly, there must be relationship of absolute trust between the client and the workshop.
For the Audi Q5 it's an endless POS money pit. Even the simple coolant lines that go into the coolant reservoir crack when doing s simple maintenance service haha
Nice one, car Wizard. I remember strripping down the engine in my first car, a 1966 Ford Cortina ('Kent' or 'Essex' engine, forget which now, 1500cc) and it was SO SIMPLE in comparison ! There would barely have been ONE of your carts with bits taken off to do a head gasket replacement.
I can remember my older brother taking an engine out of a mk 2 cortina without even using a lift (big man just got in the engine bay and lifted it out ) he had new shell bearings back in and running in a few hours.how things have changed for the worst 🤪
@@cedhome7945 The Mark 2 Cortina was almost the same engine but had a cross-flow arrangement (inlet on one side, exhaust the other). Sure, they were manageable by hand, no huge weight at all. It took a bit more to remove the 'bottom end'., I think I had help for that but no lift required. When I finished working on it, I remember carrying the 'short engine' downstairs from my flat. Pretty good engines IMHO.
Me and my friend did a complete engine rebuild on a 1982 VW Golf 1.6 engine in less than a day back in the mid nineties. Barely a full desk of parts. I would not dare to do it on a modern motor.
Those were the days. I had a 1968 Volvo 144. It was the simplest thing to work on imaginable and a very roomy engine compartment. Being a Volvo, the parts were not cheap but everything was easy to do.
Compared to the cost of new vehicles its worth paying the 4 grand to fix it! My company had to replace a Hemi 6.4l on a truck that should have moved on to the parts lane, but truck costs are astronomical and we needed the truck to keep work flowing. It is what it is Wizard keep up the continued great work your doing:P
While I would agree, it sucks that customers only have the 4K repair as the option. Perhaps with different engineering and design work, the part wouldn't fail as much and repairs would be simpler/cheaper.
@@Blippity_Bloop64 Subaru used to have a similar issue with the graphite coating on their head gaskets failing over time on the N/A 2.5L models. But the issue could be fixed using the multi layer metal gaskets from the turbo models. But if Mazdas turbo model gaskets are the problem then the only hope is if the aftermarket provides a better gasket.
21:00 as an operations guy I'm with you 100% on this, Wizard. A bigass job like this would throw a bottleneck onto any smaller shop that would stymie the turnover of the business and clog up the whole flow of operations. Now I see how your business has a niche - you guys can specialize in these types of jobs and charge a slightly higher rate that covers the additional overhead from the space. Makes complete sense, thanks for enlightening us.
@@THAT3GGT Your assertion that he isn't differentiating his service offering and charging a premium for that point of differentiation (which is extremely well marketed via the "Car Wizard" channel) shows tremendous ignorance of basic business acumen. The shop has a higher overhead rate due to the additional real estate. There is no law that states that a mechanic must bill his services out at a commoditized, universal flat rate. That is not the way to run a business. Ask me how I know.
@@lashlarue7924 my point is he's charging a fair price for the work done numbnuts. My BMOS business degree would suggest I do understand basic business concepts especially something as elementary as your operations management insights. Go touch grass and find a woman to pester instead of bothering me.
Far easier and efficient to drop the engine and trans on turbo Mazda’s onto a table and take it apart in comfort. Takes me about an hour to have in on the ground. I’ve done one cylinder head that was cracked but not overheated and several other engines that had cracked cylinder heads and went full nuclear and would barely drive into the shop, never a head gasket though. Good find. Mazda Technician in Southern Ontario here.
I’ve only worked on numerous 4 cylinder engines, and one V12. Nothing in between. The V12 was a Mercedes M275 twin turbo that needed oil leaks fixed. Involves taking the engine out, taking the heads heads off and replacing countless o-rings. The engine valley cover also needed a gasket. I had to borrow another customer’s V12 S-Class as reference to route all the turbocharger waste-gate vacuum lines. In the end when it was all finished, the turbos didn’t want to boost. I accidentally switched 2 sensor connectors on the intake. When it was all said and done, it was actually quite a good feeling haha!
I've worked on LT1s in a few Roadmasters and Fleetwoods. They aren't too bad when you start to look at something like this. The worst trouble I had was replacing a mounting bracket that I couldn't find at a parts place. At least with a 350, if you fix it right, you know you won't have any problems for a long time. All this turbo crap we're slapping on everything isn't helping reliability
Car Wizard: One thing you should do in the description of your videos is to include the year AND the mileage of the car along with the type of transmission. I kept thinking about this video and wondering how many miles is on this car?
Parts carts are super handy. I make and mod many for my home machine and welding shop and put everything on wheels (including my lathe and mill for which I fabbed removable frames that take scaffolding casters). When everything rolls rearrangement and cleaning become very low effort. Viewers may enjoy doing what I do buying industrial carts at auction which often go cheap when they are specialty items custom fabbed for specific tasks. I pick those made of common angle and flat bar so I can cut and weld to turn them into styles I prefer.
Man - you guys must be so glad you got all those carts and tables when you did. I remember the video when you showed them all gathered up - what a life-saver they've become for projects like this. And yes, I remember the TVs and VCRs on them, and the reel projectors before those!
"And yes, I remember the TVs and VCRs on them". I remember very similar and I am in Australia. They are an excellent buy and idea for the purpose they are being used .
@@martyneilan8947 HA! Oh man, yes, I remember that too; that came before the VHS and Beta players. XD And sooner or later, you'd be watching something with the class and POOF - projector light burns out.
Seeing this revived by dream of taking, like a 52 Dodge or 49 International pickup, bone stock in line 6 flathead, Making the whole nose tilt forward, Making a dumping bed box, And hinging the cab to tilt sideways on one frame rail. Simple, basic, and serviceable as all hell
Toyota uses a similar plastic baffle in their 4 cylinders in the Corolla. I saw one where the water pump failed, and the engine had been so overheated the plastic baffle melted so it didn't want to come out of the block.
The 2016-2019 heads had casting defects, Mazda fixed the issue and issued revised part numbers. If you put that same (old) head back on, it will leak again for sure
Yeah I know right! When I do those heads for the same problem I drop the engine and tranny I can get it all dropped in about an 1.5 then remove the head and it’s sooo much easier . I guess the next video will be of him replacing that head lol
I hear you. We just did a F-150 3.5 turbo. Parts everywhere. And what's worse, it was an aftermarket warranty company that refused to replace the water pump and timing chains.
I’ve never seen one of these torn down to this level with the engine still in the car. At Mazda we just drop the subframe and drop the engine out the bottom onto a table and work from there. Very cool to see!
Well done video, it was informative and detailed. Your explanation of all the work, parts to remove/reinstall, in order to do a repair, is like a surgeon pausing to explain to an audience while performing a surgery. You certainly have gone through lots of effort to create such a video. Keep them coming!
I've done 4 cylinder heads, and head gaskets on the skyactive engines. you do not need to remove the entire exhaust system. drop the sub frame next time makes everything so much easier.
I had a head gasket blow (and warp the head) on a 92 Plymouth Sundance in about circa 1997. With my dad's help, I managed to DIY and repair it, and get a junkyard head to replace it. From memory I'd say the parts filled up about one of the carts. It was by far the most in depth repair I've one on a car before, and since. I wouldn't do it again. But this? I had no idea head gasket repairs had gotten so bad.
@@timewa851 Did Mitsubishi make heads for Chrysler cars in 1992? Wikipedia says this car used a 2.2 Chrysler K engine. Whatever it was, it was junk. The replacement head from the junkyard was cracked. I think I got it for next to nothing because of this. The crack didn't seem to matter, as the car ran for another 6 years or so before dying. IIRC someone told me these heads on this engine were all junk, and prone to cracking. Ahh.. the 90s, when American cars were at their worst. This was the first, and last truly American car I ever owned.
Having work for Mazda for a bit, not surprised by what you are showing. The Skyactive 2.5 TURBO (the non turbo are ok) are prone to coolant leak and oil burning
@@Edyth_Hedd Non turbo what? All modern cars have turbo, you act like theres a "non turbo" option to be had in that segment, at least the Mazda is relible
I have this engine in my 2021 Mazda 3 Hatchback... Im more than SURE Weight has alot to do with it.. Why would you put a 4 cylinder turbo is a Massive car like a Cx9...
I am really appreciative of your videos and I am a fan. I find them to be very educational. I was going to have a similar problem with my 2017 Honda CRV touring. I was one of the lucky ones that had an oil dilution problem with the 1.5 L engine. I bought the car new in December 2016. Started realizing the past year I was losing about a cup of two of coolant every 6 to 8 weeks. There was no leak visible. Then I started having problems with fuel injectors. The car kept on acting like it was going to stall out. No codes were shown. The dealership was more or less dumbfounded. And when the fuel injectors and spa plugs were replaced, ran well for a week or so then I had same stalling issues on acceleration. I believed it was a Throttlebody issue, but the dealership was not too enthused of changing it being that there were no codes, and the car was running fine when I brought it to them. This forced me to trade it in for 2023 Lexus GX 460. My CRV had only 61,000 miles. Got rid of a headache. Keep making those videos. I spread the word about you and your honesty, thank you again.
Pretty thorough explanation of what to expect if you plan on doing a head gasket on this car. Also it will help a lot of customers understand why it cost so much for this repair. Keep these videos coming!
I remember the TV carts. When the teacher wheel them into class we were always stoked. Watching some VHS with the classroom lights off was always more fun than anything else they had to offer. HAHA
I remember movies and filmstrip projectors. Got pretty good at threading movie film through projectors when the teachers had no luck. And then the video players would try eating tapes because zero head cleaning was being done.
3:11 ALWAYS put your bolts back as you take parts off your car. You'll save yourself hours of time finding bolts and figuring out which bolts go where.
@James French I use those when the bolts can't be put back in. For example the head he's sending to the machine shop. Ever since applying this method I've never had a stray/leftover bolt or had to search for them. Saves me loads of time.
If you're going to reseal the plugs with teflon tape, make sure the tape is rated for high temperatures. If I remember correctly, most teflon, PTFE, tape is rated for ~270 degrees Celsius maximum. Exhaust headers can get way more hot. Use the appropriate sealant or otherwise the sealant will simply burn away.
I’ve worked on several vehicles with the bulk of them being old Chevy trucks when I was younger. Just started loosing coolant on this Mazda and now it won’t start. This video was so depressing but very informative and I do appreciate the time you spent going into such detail. I’d feel good about bringing mine to your shop, though knowing my luck, you’re probably no where near me. I subscribed and look forward to seeing more content. Maybe I can learn more to work on whatever piece of used crap I’m going to have to drive while I wait to fix this one. Thank you, Sir.
Owned a 2.5 NA skyactiv Mazda 6 for several years. Seems the NA ones are bulletproof, they turbo ones haven't been around as long and still seem reliable, but they definitely have more issues than the NA ones.
You are the man car wizard. I love these break downs and going through these modern cars. When my 2019 WRX eventually needs the timing belt and water pump replaced I’m seriously thinking of bringing it to you. I only trust you to do that job properly and honestly. Love your work keep it up.
I've worked a little on my old BMW 3-series E90, Best car i've owned - And I remember complaining when there were hidden bolts 'n stuff to replace the waterpump, and thought it was tricky as a someone that haven't done that much myself - And looking at this, man - hell no. You earned yourself a sub
I have a 2019 Mazda CX-9 in my driveway right now. Bought it new and now only 34k miles. First drop of coolant I see from engine (not coolant system) it will be immediate trade-in!
Just fyi... there was an issue with the casting of this head. There were some that had major defects which caused it to crack. It actually happened to mine at 94k miles a couple months back. Thankfully mazda stands behind their product and paid for the newly updated head and gasket replacement in the amount of about $5400. My out of pocket was only $290!! I am a mechanic myself and knew something wasnt right and when the head was taken off it was not the gasket but an actual crack in the head itself. People with head issues on the newer mazda turbo cars need to call Mazda Corporate right away to figure out if theh are within the range of cars that had issues.
It would be easier to drop the motor and trans with the sub frame. I believe the liner is cylinder wall supports. Since they are floating the cylinders to improve cooling at the combustion area.
There is zero thought given to ease of repair when new vehicles are designed. The priority of modern day car manufacturers is how cheaply and quickly can they slap these things together and ship them out. Once it's out the door (and out of it's warranty) they could care less about the poor SOB who's gonna be servicing the thing.
The government mandates lower emissions every year. People still want their cars to get on the highway in less than a week. So what we get are smaller displacement more complicated engines. This is why BEVs are going to replace ICE vehicles by the end of this decade.
i had the same problem to a Mercedes W140 right now. When i see how many parts it was on this mazda, the Mercedes was waaaay less parts and much easier to work with. great work :) greetings
I would really have liked confirmation that the head itself is not cracked or damaged. As commentors on your previous video noted, regarding this same model vehicle, there is a TSB out there regarding cracked cylinder heads and resultant coolant leaks. I mean, if you put this engine back together and it still leaks coolant because the head is bad, well, oof. A really big 'oof'.
Head should be checked for flat, surfaced as necessary, checked for cracks and valves done or at least checked. Not sure what Omega plans on doing but…
Anything aluminum has to be re-machined. It's just too prone to warping or corrosion from fluids. There is no reassemble - you simply send it off and get it back a few days later.
if i had to guess on the plastic jackets on the block it would be to focus the cooling effect on the cylinders as it is an open deck design instead of the block by insulating it from the coolant
Back and n 2020 my Chrysler Town and Country needed a new head gasket. The car had the 3.3 liter engine. I live in Queens, NYC. I called several auto repair shops they were quoting me $4500 but none of them wanted the job. They couldn't have a repair bay and two master mechanics tied up for three days. In that same bay in three days they could service 12 cars. I had to buy a new car. Unfortunately when your car needs a new head gasket its totalled!!
I did a slap job on one of the last carbureted Civics (88?). Without disconnecting most of the vacuum hosed, i lifted the head slightly with the intake and hoses still attached. Cleaned the mating surfaces as best I could and bolted it all back together. It went another 6 years before they wrecked it
The plastic liner inside of the water channel is designed in a way where in some markets like Dubai for example they can take that thing out and just let the car cool off normally whereas in North America or more winter conditions it will allow the car to warm up faster it's basically there to reduce the cooling capacity so that the car warms up faster that's it
@@aliasgertayabali5260 usually at the factory they will build a certain number without the baffle to fill an order, those cars will have special VINs.
All this heat just for the emissions, while the engine is being stressed out to the point either it cracks or blows the headgasket. So while at it why not fix the root of the problem. If its possible remove the plastic liner, drill a bypass hole in a thermostat. Maybe it will take longer to warmup but will keep the engine on a safe side. And i wouldn't be surprised if that plastic is cracked and its pieces blocking some passages.
If anything is warped on a turbo engine, it will be the block, not just the head. You need to check both. Turbo engines need a lot of cooling management.
And I remember people ragging on me when I said the easiest way to do the head gaskets on my Subaru was to pull the motor. But I could do that in just a couple of hours in my driveway, then maybe 1.5 hours on the stand for removal and reassembly. Maybe 8-10 hours from start to finish. Far quicker than I'm sure it took to yank all that while under the hood.
This vehicle makes my VW Phaeton 8 cylinder look relatively simple. When the Phaeton came out everyone said, "watch out" it's a maintenance nightmare. I've redone all the major stuff. It has 100k on it and it purrs like it's new. I still drive it everyday. Thank you for pointing out which vehicles to avoid like the plague. Keep doing this type of video so we consumers can be wise shoppers.
this job is pretty simple as a mazda tech i enjoy doing these engines if they had simply dropped the engine and trans it would take about 1 hour and a half to remove and do the headgakset thatway
Greetings from a fellow Phaeton owner (Diesel V6) although I do believe it's a money pit. Electric trunk release broke 2 times on me, new part close to 500€ and that's just engineered junk with all those plastic gears inside. Air condition went out, another 700 for a new condenser or whatever they are called plus I need to do the front axle, bushings are worn out after a 100.000 miles and the car eats tires like nothing. Never had issues like that on my old Opel /GM Vectra God I miss this car
@@computercrack One must remember the Phaeton is a very heavy luxury car. I am still using the original trunk release. It does become disoriented now and then but that is an easy fix. It stopped working once and the dealer told me they would have to pull the carpeting and seats to run a new line to the trunk. I took it to an independent dealer and they got it working for a pittance. A good mechanic is a big plus. I have a 2004 Phaeton and I suspect the trunk release was "re-engineered" later and became problematic. Suspension problems will be common due to the car's weight, just like on Rolls and Bentley cars. My main blower fan went out on the A/C and yes it cost about 1k to fix. When you get into a 100k car you need to budget these expenses. It goes with the territory. My largest bill was 11K for the major service at 60k miles plus the A/C work. In addition, the front suspension was repaired as necessary. My car is now 20 years old and purring fine. I think I got my money's worth. I haven't had a car payment in 20 years.
@incog99 SKD how do you fix the disorientation? You mean the trunk lid doesn't open all the way? That's also an issue I had. I know about the cable to the trunk which tends to "break" but that's working fine for me, it's actually the gears inside the lock that are broken just like in the actual video from the wizard with the dead ac actuators. Anyway you are right, it's a luxury car and you have to pay luxury prices. But if I had to come up with 11k in repairs I'd just junk the car, it's not even worth that much. You might find the video from "swisscarguy" interesting about the cost of ownership of his Phaeton about three years, it's just ridiculous. Although I really like the car I don't want to put up with all these issues anymore and I need a bigger car for the family anyway so I'll probably get a Citroen C4 grand Picasso.
Most anything modern with a turbo on it is a pain to work on. Little plastic hoses everywhere layered upon each other that snap clean off when you look at them. And gotta love running coolant through 1/2 of them.
I just replaces my 2009 BMW Twin Turbos. OEM turbos are $2k each. I found aftermarket upgraded turbos for $1300 for both and much better built. To put them in was a 3 day job. Had to remove the entire bottom of the car. So I did the oil pan gasket too. Still, nothing like this nightmare.
Hmm. How should I put it? The prices in the US are astronomical then. This job would cost 1 grand (possibly 1.5 grand) in a shop like yours here in Poland and max 2 grand at the Mazda dealership.
Honestly it’s amazing they can build these cars for the amount they charge. I know they’re not cheap, but still just incredible. Do you think this gasket problem is due to the heat from the turbo as opposed to a NA engine?
Plastic liner is to help engine warm up real quick, to meet emissions requirements for startup. Pull it out before it break apart on high mileage and block coolant channels.
I am really not familiar with the labour prices in the USA, but I work as an automechanic in Germany and I can tell you that this kind of job would cost about 2000-2200 Euros , parts included, around here
When I brought my 2008 SAAB 9-5 into the GM dealer to have my recalled Takata air bag replaced, I looked on the wall and the labor price was $185/hr. I was shocked. My indy SAAB master tech charges me $90/hr. While there I overheard the service writer tell an older women that her remote needed a new battery. He quoted her $75. I sidled up to her and offered her the new battery that I had just installed in my remote. I asked for a paper clip, popped out my CR1632 battery and put it in her remote. It literally took 30 seconds. She asked how much, and I said, "On the house." I got home and popped another CR1632 battery into my remote. I understand overhead, but these dealerships are out of control.
Really appreciate you Car Wizard. I learn so much from these videos. I have been recommending Mazda CX-9 to family and friends. I will stop doing that.
There were no issues with the Made in Japan models we receive here in Australia. Ours are Lexus standard. North American Mazda's are made in USA and Mexico. They had terrible quality control issues however Mazda Japan had to step in and help out from late 2021. This car in this video is the very old model. @@imkindofabigdeal4308
Makes me happy that I own two mustangs one 2000 v6 and one 1989 foxbody. The foxbody is so easy to work on over what kind of cars we see in the last decade. Granted my 2000 v6 has never had a major issue in th we engine bay.
Great video Wizard! Makes me just want to just go out and buy an old Model T.. Or at least a late 60's Ford truck with a 300 I-6. I could fix anything by myself in my driveway and it would outlast me.
I'd recommend an old Volvo, actually. Those inline 4 engines were indeed bulletproof and dead simple to work on. As a secondary option, an old 60s or 70s Mercedes before they started adding smog equipment and electronics. Also dead simple to work on.
I only work on my own cars or friends and family for free. This video really makes me appreciate how easy doing head gaskets on my late 90s ford Taurus 3.0 v6 was. That was a weekend job and I think the kit was $100 with the gaskets and bolts.
prime example why i switched from being a mechanic. too many jobs where you have to replace part x. to access part x, part a b c d e f and g have to be removed. i live in the rust belt so removing parts a b and c involve getting the torch out and maybe snapping off a bolt. and parts d and e are rusted together and break in half coming off. hats off to all mechanics out there, it takes a lot of patience and knowlege and attitude to do the job right and your usually underpaid and worth every penny!
I have a friend who literally had his subframe rot out from under the engine in Alabama where no salt is used on the road. They told him to buy another car. Mazda is not built to any quality these days. It's not like 30 years ago when they'd hold up for a half million miles
The dealer didn't have those plugs because dealers don't rebuild engines anymore. Years ago, while working on an F-250, I needed a new piston head and rings. Nobody had them, not even the dealers. Napa was able to order them both (from the one and only supplier for each of them). The piston said made in India. This was for a 351 Windsor engine. How much more common can you get? When I asked around about why the dealers don't have these parts, one of the Ford dealers told me that if a customer has an engine that is bad, for ANY reason, they replace it with a new or rebuilt one shipped to them in a crate. They then send out the bad engine to the one and only place in the country that rebuilds them. They don't really "fix" cars anymore. They read computer codes and replace what it tells them is bad.
I was surprised when a Toyota dealership told me that they don't fix cylinder heads in house but rather ship them out to a machine shop. But if a guy only needs a few shims at $20 each, this is a lot better than having to rip into the engine to take off the cylinder head and drifted off to a machine shop and then put it back on the car.
2023 Mazda 3 AWD Turbo... Been saving up to put a substantial down-payment on one. Then I see this video. One guess which engine is in her. I'm not going through this $4K nightmare down the road. Heck in my neck of the woods, the shops would likely charge $6K. And that's _if_ any of them even decide they want the headache of trying to fix the issue. Still going to save up my money. Not sure what I'll buy now. Thanks for saving me from a horrendous repair bill, Car Wizard.
@@Jumalten001 My neighborhood, you're better off with the security of a locking trunk. Also, not interested in a manual. For me, the 3 was going to be a do-everything vehicle. Last thing I want is my left leg and right arm to feel like they're about to fall off when I get to work with the type of traffic we have in my city.
This issue is a TSB covered by Mazda. I have no idea why he didn't send them to the dealer. That and he made the job way longer and more frustrating than it had to be by not dropping the powerplant out of the car. It's standard procedure to do so on Mazda turbo cars. Regardless it's not an ongoing issue and has been corrected. Incidents like these are not common on the modern Mazda vehicles.
Mazda wasn’t playing when they said they were trying to go upscale/upmarket wit their vehicles because this is definitely a luxury car difficulty level and cost repair😂
i like it when you say "but wait there's more" , i believe the 2010's have destroyed many industries including auto and in all your videos you seem to demonstrate what i believe since 2013 till now
Retired mechanic after 45 years of work. I drive a 1984 toyota truck. Been there with more than 1 cart of parts. the big thing a few years back was the head gaskets on the Subarus. I could have the engine out of the car and the heads off and on the way to the machine shop before lunch. One of the last memorable jobs I did before calling it quits was a 2014 Honda Pilot for an engine over heat and cam shaft damage. The whole subframe had to come out of the car, kinda like you see now when driving past a Ford dealership and see the trucks outside with the body in the air and the chassis on the ground
A friend warned me about Mazdas!! Initially, I thought he was bs’ing me, but apparently he knew what he was talking about because he used to own one. With this video confirming my fears and my friends warning, “touching” a Mazda will be a near impossible thing for me to do!!!
Apparently this is a well-known issue with Mazda 6s, CX-5, and CX-9s with the 2.5L Turbo engine. Mileages range from 45k-110k when they start to fail. Some owners have mentioned they've had their engines replaced at 75k (or by their warranty/good will replacement) for this issue only for it to happen AGAIN at 110k with the replacement engine! It's a known defect (corporate knows too) and refuses to do a recall. "A casting defect in the block and/or cylinder head causes a coolant leak that's hidden behind the exhaust manifold and turbocharger." I can guarantee after CarWizard makes this repair, the owner will return again sometime in the future for the SAME issue. Just watch. In fact, I'd recommend CarWizard to tell the owner to sell the vehicle after repairs if they can. This is also why I'm heavily against purchasing vehicles today with turbocharged engines as there are more moving parts and more pressure within the engine. Manufacturers are looking for a cheap and quick way to generate more power with a smaller engine. No, thank you. NA engines all the way.
My feeling too. The turbo engines run higher pressures with the same head, head gasket and head bolts. The turbo's themselves have a lot of moving parts under high temperature. Its a recipe for endless expensive repairs down the road.
Nissan SUV 1991. 2.7 Turbo diesel. cast iron block, cast iron head. gear drive camshaft and injection pump with pushrod OHV (no chain/no belt) No problems in 32 years....and counting. Engines with a reputation for warping cylinder heads are usually alloy.... the same engines where available with a cast iron head were bullet proof.... funny that.....
That’s interesting I believe the Ford focus RS had a similar issue as well as of course the Audi 2.0 Or a guy who runs a euro shop told me they get hairline cracks on the block
I think what they are really trying to do is create big power while maintaining EPA mileage requirements. That's why they are putting them in trucks now for sure. I'll never drive a working truck with a turbo or twin turbo motor.
There’s a guy with a 2018 civic 1.5T with 700k miles. This has nothing to do with turbos. It’s how they improperly manufactured the block. That literally can happen with any garbage manufacturer. Honda makes excellent turbo engines in terms of reliability. Ford/GM/Chrysler/every German brand has made both garbage turbo and non turbo engines. It’s not a coincidence. People don’t seem to understand why you should only be buying Honda or Toyota.
I repaired my girlfriends Subaru head gasket engine out job (fun lol) it had the same issue the black coating missing in sections which was causing it to over heat however the replacement gasket was 2 thin metal gaskets with no coating.
I guess this was filmed a little while ago because we already heard in a Previously released car wizard video that Magic Mike is no longer with the company.
For all the people saying this was a cracked exhaust manifold leaking as stated in a TSB, the head gasket can be clearly seen in the video that it was blown, not the head itself. Happy to report that the car is back together with a new head gasket now. 100% leak free.
@@Andrews_playground Makes sense, that's how they go together at the factory after all.
So that CX9 is 4 grand to fix a head gasket taking 17 hours. How does like a old chevy CK or a 90's OBS with a 350 compare on tear down time?
Engine was 100% fully designed and made by Mazda in Japan. Not made by Ford at all. This one is probably the worst Japanese engine ever made in history from Japan.
@@bobjackson4287 Anything without OHC's is usually very easy to do the head gaskets on. I remember my Dad doing the head gasket on old BMC & BL engines in a couple of hours from start to finish.
People need to watch the first video then - it was leaking coolant as fast as the owners could pour in - so obviously larger than some manifold seepage.
As a non-mechanic it astonishes me how a mechanic can remember how every single bolt and part goes back together and in what order.. simply unbelievable to me. Good mecanics must be like gold-dust, but who wouldn’t want to work for the Car Wizard..fantastic values.. well done
I had that same question until i started doing it myself...i have learned to not be hasty and those carts help a lot.and your brain is strange when reassembly..you just remember if you paid attention on disassembly.but i've learned alot from wizards videos
Also we don't. That's the who joke of " spare parts." But in all seriousness , it's not so much a exercise in memory as it is a game of Lego or a puzzle. Yes you have to have a general idea where everything goes and what order( sometimes you forget little steps and need to do work around or remove stuff again )but with each part installed you make sure all the hole are filled , all gaskets in place and all connections are connected before moving to the next. The big picture looks massive but just like eating a elephant, you start one little piece at a time.
You don't really have to remember how/where *every* bolt goes. It's much easier when things are organised and grouped and that's exactly what the carts do here. Also these days, with everyone having a cellphone camera handy can also take pictures as you go to understand what a given section or group looked like before you took it apart. Not to mention the diagrams and explode views in service manuals, service data, etc.
you can buy repair manuals
@@rolandm9750 Yea bolts are easy just bag and tag or zip tie them to said part. high quality camera phones tho are such a game changer as a tech. I take 3 pics right out of the gate left right and center of any major job i am doing that i have not done a lot of so at the end when i'm routing hoses and wiring harnesses i can just zoom in as needed and put everything right back in place without fussing with it going by the wire or hose memory.
Multiple shops quoted me around $5k to do head gaskets on the 2000 Malibu that I bought years ago for $2,500. Given that I was ready to junk it, I added some miracle in a can to the coolant. It held for another 20k plus miles.
What were the symptoms?
...why did you have a 2000 Malibu?
@@The_Ballo 4 reel
Ummmm…I was born in 99 & we had those carts
@@The_Ballo and whats wrong what that ??
The plastic inserts in the water jacket are to evenly distribute heat between the top and bottom of the cylinders, which in turn evens out the thermal expansion so that the width of the bore is consistent from top to bottom. They focus the flow of coolant to the top of the cylinder, where the combustion process causes the most of the heat to occur.
And after a few years it starts to crack, and sends small plastic bits around the coolingsystem fucking up everything.. 😛
@Alpejohn definitely never seen this happen! It would have to be temp stable plastic and these are in just about every single open deck engine
Mostly right, The casting of the engine block has a very rough surface, this causes cavitation in the coolant as it flows through the cylinder area of the block making "hot spots" in the block. Temperature variations of just 30 degrees F can cause block cracking and cylinder wall spalling. The easy and cheap solution was to force the water in a more laminar flow through the block which nearly completely eliminated hot spotting!
@Brad Graham That's true, although these inserts are specifically to concentrate the flow of coolant progressively more toward the tops of the cylinders, and this, in turn, is to even out the rate of thermal expansion.
Older open deck designs didn't factor this in, and it was possible to seize the engine under certain conditions (mainly driving hard before the engine is warmed up) as the top of the cylinders and the pistons would expand faster than the bottom of the cylinders. An example of this was the early Alfa Romeo open deck designs.
@@19jacobob93 That is an introduction to what I abhor most, eurodesign! While european and british car manufacturers have great product, the over designed nature and (in the USA) over priced nature of those cars has meant to me that you should have your european or british car worked on somewhere else! I found a bad heater control valve on a Mercedes one time, a part that cost about 15 bucks for an american car and took a half hour to install, and saw that on the Mercedes it was dealer only 800 dollars, and in a location that was almost impossible to access without pulling out the entire dash and decided that they can go screw themselves at the Mercedes engineering dept! I actually told that customer to trade his over priced, over engineered piece of eurotrash on a good Cadillac! I don't like them either but they don't have vacuum actuated water valves that are price gouging the customer!
You were absolutely spot on about everything you stated with doing a big job like a head gasket And all the intricate parts and pieces that are involved in properly doing the job not just slapping it back together!! The detail that you described was absolutely perfect! Any customer that uses you guys has to be so grateful!!
It is simply scary ! And as mentioned below, $4000 seems to be a bargain for so much work !
I love your approach and your channel.
You and Mrs Wizard really deserve your success!
Doubters eating crow and getting closer to a MILLION subs! As a longtime mechanic and shop owner myself, I'm really happy for you man. I love how you go about your business and I love your channel!
I’ve recommended this channel to several mechanics & most really appreciate the channel with the tips & tricks.
As a Mazda tech I can relate. I haven’t seen a head gasket leak yet, but I’ve done my fair share of these heads for the cracking issue. I take the engine out when I do them. They’re not all that bad to do, it’s just time consuming due to all the stuff that has to come off. Interesting find about those coolant plugs. Makes me wonder if the heads are actually cracking or if it’s just those plugs leaking.
Ex Mazda master here.Did a few of these and they were all a plug in the head as per the tsb.Just resealed the plugs with a Loctite product.Now 2.2 Diesels are a different story.Did numerous (like 35-40 odd). Always head gaskets.Did one in place, only one.Always dropped the power plant.Engine and trans.So much easier and quicker.Had a set up like this guy though,with the trolley and trays.Every thing set in sequence along with the bolts/ nuts with each item.
Why does it have plastic around the cylinder liners like in this video car wizard mention
Was just gonna say this. Seems like it would be easier to just drop the whole setup out the bottom. That being said, i see no reason for it to be this much of a pain and even less reason for so much tech on a engine. Its like they make it complicated for the sake of being complicated. Simplicity should be key in all vehicles.
@@CelicAWDyou can thank the democrats and their years of industry regulations and decrees on high to get another 2 mpg more ...outta an engine.It gets ridiculous everytime their in power
@@nickmalone3143 Abolish CAFE!!!!!!
As someone not mechanically inclined at all (but enjoys these videos), this would an absolute nightmare for me to do lol. Respect to those mechanical genius out there
here in australia as a mazda tech all our dealership would have to do is submit a tech case to mazda beacuse its a manufacturing defect and the customer would get a brandnew long block installed at no charge yes you have to transfer everything onto the new engine but its alot easier to do with the engine and trans dropped out on a engine dissasambely table 🙂
I love how Wizard diagnoses FIRST. Then repairs. Excellent!
Yeah. Really unique. Unfortunately. 😂
Any decent mechanic does this.
What else would you expect.
That's what you SHOULD do first. If I get a car in that has customer complaints I do all the Diag BEFORE the service .
he diagnosed wrong..the person will be back unhappy
A few years ago I was given an older Honda civic that had bent exhaust valves on one cylinder so to get to them it was basically a head gasket job. I had the head off in maybe 45 minutes working leisurely with just basic hand tools and having never turned a wrench on a Honda before. This is crazy to see how much cars have changed.
You didn’t get the head and timing belt off in 45min
@@fastinradfordable Yes I did. I slipped the timing belt off the cam gear.
I believe it. I used to have a 89' CRX-Si. Got home from work on a Friday evening. Let the car cool off. Pull valve cover, unbolt intake and header. Use bungee to hold header out of the way. Slide timing belt off cam gear. Unbolt camshaft, unbolt head. Saturday morning took to machine shop. Made sure everything was straight. Put it all back together by the afternoon.
@@fastinradfordable
I believe it
@Zachary Adams I know what you mean. I still have my 98 Civic. Works flawless. My dad got a 2014 civic. I just thought how lucky it must be to have a warranty lol.
You have to replace the head. Alot of 2018 mazda cx5 and cx9s have defects in the cylinger head that can cause them to leak out of the head gasket, especially around the center exhaust manifold stud. Mazda has updated the casings. If you put the same head back in its going to leak again.
One thing of note it was the previous MZR that was 'shared' with Ford. The skyactiv engine was an 'in-house' development and was around the time Ford were progressively getting rid of their shares in Mazda.
yep Ford's Ecoboost is a GDI version of Mazda's MZR, but Mazda's Skyactiv is a new engine platform built from the ground up
Did Wizard have it wrong about this car being a Ford engine? In the previous video on this vehicle, he said it is actually a Ford 2.5L Turbo, not a Mazda. He said it’s not really a foreign car and as far as Magic Mike is concerned, he is working on a Ford. He even said, “there are so many parts on this car that say fomoco [Ford Motor Company]. Ford this, Ford that, Ford owns Mazda.”
I heard that Mazda designed Skyactive in-house, but maybe they copied lots of the Ford engine design elements and used Ford components? Maybe it’s not that unique and they exaggerated how different Skyactive is?
@@gabrielo8922 it's definitely a different engine and not borrowed from Ford. The high compression design and part Atkinson cycle alone is different.
22 cx9 signature here - if my memory serves this engine was indeed mazda stepping away from the ford partnership with their own development. an additional detail is that the exhaust valve openings for each cylinder were done in such a way to minimize turbo lag, and that exhaust manifold configuration was part of that - you can find a great video here: watch?v=UCEarzwakgc
Great video. I watch Mazda vids because we have 2 Mazdas in the family. Fortunately no turbochargers on either of them. It looks like you have a very skilled mechanic on that job.
I recently had the head gasket done on my car. Under 1000$ for the whole deal and the mechanics only had to remove a medium size box of parts. I love older cars they are mostly infinitely repairable.
Even my more modern Mustang is possible. The issue is cramming larger engines into very small spaces.
@@plektosgaming 100%, I own a 1991 300zx with 280k mi. After owning and restoring that, it's basically hardened me as backyard mechanic
I'm definitely with you on the over complication of modern engines. I've been saying for the past 10 years that there won't be a vintage car market for cars of this generation. You won't be able to get the parts you need (especially the electronics) when the vehicle is 10-15 years old.
LS swap lol they are making transmission adapters for everything now
@@KrGsMrNKusinagi0 idk the LS swap still needs electronics and that right there is the killer. might be able to be done now but what about 10 years from now or 20 years? anything with a "computer" isn't something to hang a hat on for long term reliability. (I worked in electronic repair and had a shed full of electronic equipment that was junked due to unobtainium parts so no matter how much you wanted to fix you just can't.)
come to think of it, there aren't many old Mazdas out there. Just like old Audis. Gone.
I think I can count on 1 hand carburated vehicles I see in any week. they have turned to dust or if they had value are hiding in a garage. an old car isn't reliable just because it's 50 years old and gets driven 20 miles a week to go to a car show
@@DrRyan82994 there's a very large grey area between carburetors and current VVT, DI engines. I think you assumed a bit much. That being said, I own a 55 year old car with a carburetor and have owned it for over 30 years. It doesn't go see a mechanic. I am the mechanic. If you can get a carb rebuild kit (thanks Holley) you will never need to pay someone to mess with the fuel system again. So yeah. I stand by my statement. The car has it's original wiring harness and zero electronics. But the sweet spot seems to be late 90's thru early 2010 or so. Port fuel injection with no VVT, DOD or other alphabet mumbo jumbo. And certainly NO massive touch screens or haptic BS (VW). And I'm not just talking reliability, but longevity and durability. All those things are backsliding in today's cars.
For those wondering, book time says 18.3 hours for a headgasket change on this car but only 11.4 hours to remove and install an engine. Some cars the dealer will replace the entire motor when a headgasket fails under warranty for just that reason.
That still only makes sense if an entire motor is the same or less money than 7hrs labour plus the head gasket and other misc. parts involved.
@@rolandm9750 It's a remanufactured or used motor, of course. All plainly stated in the fine print. :). In the end, they pocket more money and you get someone else's problem. Yet another reason to stay away from the stealerships.
I've worked at a dealership over 10 years and the only time I've seen a used engine put in under warranty was an aftermarket warranty. We'd price out doing it right, the warranty company says nope you're getting a used one then a pallet shows up one day with the engine of their choice. Usually with the harness cut up, broken sensors, leaking gaskets, etc. Whether or not the aftermarket warranty company will pay to fix their junk heap or not depends on the company but usually not. So, of course, we're up front with the customer about it, they throw a fit, we tell them to call the warranty company, warranty company won't fix it right, so we send them down the road with the aftermarket warranty engine and the advice to bring it back in a month or two because their "new" engine is having whichever specific problem and we end up getting approval on the repair after the fact. It's a massive headache for everyone involved.
As far as manufacturers? No, a bad head gasket is getting changed. I can speak for GM, Toyota, VW/Audi, Hyundai, and Subaru when I say they don't do full long blocks so even if you get a new engine it's just the shortblock (no head) so a full engine replacement is out of the question unless there's something wrong in the bottom end. Head gasket jobs get head gasket replacements unless it's an engine where the gasket failure leads to further engine damage (emulsifying the oil then they continue to drive until they spin a bearing).
@@plektosgaming well if the stealership charges you $4k for a head gasket then they're charging you $200 an hr for a $50 gasket. But then again $200 an hr is standard in most repair shops.
@@zlonewolf Unfortunately so. I remember working on my old Mercedes 230S and it was a normal i-6 with carbs and you could have the entire head off in 30 minutes. Now everything is assembled and practically glued together like an iPad. It takes 6-8 hours just to get TO the head and nobody seems to care about servicing anything when they design it.
Our 2016 CX-9 had the dreaded "head leak" last year and it cost us about $3K, even with a "courtesy" credit from Mazda NA. Our CX-9 had 78K miles, so we were outside the warranty. This is happening to many of the 2.5L Turbo SkyActiv engines (there are many threads about this problem on the various online Mazda forums, but there are apparently not enough cases for Mazda to do a full-on recall). This is a result of a poor design and the TSB explains some of the issue, but Mazda has never really posted anything (that I have seen) as to exactly WHY this is happening and what they did to the "revised" head design to "fix" the problem. Our car now has about 85K and it seems to be running fine. I would like to offer a shout out to Ourisman Mazda Rockville (MD) as they were really great through this whole process. Unfortunately, these Mazdas are ticking time bombs, so any used CX-9, CX-5, or Mazda 6 with the 2.5L turbo up until the 2021 model year (with VINs as indicated in the TSB) that have not had the head replaced already may have this problem. That's probably tens of thousands of cars in which this problem could rear it's ugly "head". (Sorry, I couldn't resist)😄 Buyer BEWARE! (apologize for the double post)
Short-fused junk. Surprising, coming from an Asian builder.
why does it just affest the 2.5 turbo? I have the cx 5 non turbo
Does it affect non turbo? I avoid buying turbo engines
@@kyqorioskygo8999 I wouldnt be too worried about it. look for the tsb to see if you are effected
Recalls are for safety issues, not for reliability issues. Best case scenario there'll be a class action lawsuit but those only end up lining the pockets of attorneys and typically very particular circumstances which have to apply for you to get a payout. Check out the lawsuits regarding the 3 valve Ford Triton engines as a good example of what to expect if anything ever happens.
Thanks @car wizard for sharing this. This is not just a problem for Skyactiv 2.5 turbo, but a similar problem for 2.2 diesel engine too. Got mates who drove these got blown head gaskets, and now I understand why the recommendation is to lift a new/second-hand engine in.
Does the 2.5 non-turbo not have that issue?
@@Duraputer sorry, I don't know enough to tell
@@Duraputer I doubt it does… this doesn’t seem to be a common issue at all, it happens but not common. I have a Mazda CX-5 2016 with 167,000km on it and seems to be doing fine. There are a lot of the 2.5L non-turbos out there and if it was a major issues we would have heard about it. Even Wizard mentioned in the last video that he didn’t see this as a common issues on the program they use. Maybe this was just an unlucky car.
@@M9_Prime good too know. I test drove a Mazda 3 non-turbo and absolutely loved it, and I'm thinking of getting one.
@@Duraputer sky active has been out (in Canada) since 2012, so it’s been 13 years and I haven’t heard this being a common issue. Though I think the 2.5 skyactive was a 2013/2014 thing, original skyactive was only 2.0L. You can always get a lemon, but overall these engines seem pretty solid. The Gen2 Mazda 3 with blue rings inside the headlights were all Skyactive. Easiest way to tell besides the badge on the back.. all Gen3 and Gen4 Mazda3 are skyactive, and gen3 mazda3 started in 2014 so those cars are over 9 years old and I’m pretty sure are still running well. Maintenance is key and keeps a car running but sometimes you can hit some bad luck. I just bought a 2023 Mazda CX-5 2.5L non turbo and have no regrets, my 2016 (bought in 2015) CX-5 2.5L non turbo is doing fine with 167,000km on it.. only thing I had to get fixed so far was the rear Strut mounts… the aluminum mounts got brittle and needed to be changed and unfortunately on the CX5 it wasn’t cheap. Paid a shop $900 ($400 pets, rest labour plus did oil change) to get it done, struts and mounts, dealer wanted $650 per set (so $1300 for parts) and another $400 in labour… so like $1700+tax. I could have done it in the driveway but just didn’t have the time. The new 2023 CX-5 looks like it has aluminum strut mounts in the back like my 2016 but they seem much thicker material (similar to my replacement ones) the originals were pretty thin walled. Struts we’re still okay but everything was rusted where it attaches and the strut had to be cut off. I live in Canada, it’s pretty common here. I can also tell you that hose Rust modules they sell don’t work at all, had it installed from dealer when I bought this car and had a normal amount of rust on the bottom like a car without the module.
Yep there's a tsb for these engines. They fixed it for the 21 year model. The heads can crack as well
These vehicles are designed for ease of assembly not ease of repair. You’d think with planned obsolescence being the strategy, you’d plan to fix the part. But they would rather you just buy a whole new vehicle.
And it works. People do buy new vehicles because of it, more and more expensive ones even. Crazy world we live in
But, we're supposed to be worried about the environment.... Right....
Also laws for protection of the drivers and pedestrian's. Parts need to be flexible and give in or else you die at certain speeds. that needs space and rearrangement of the interior. you have limitations on size of your car or else you personal car would be the size of a 18 wheeler truck to make everything easy and accessible. A car is not just about you. you dont live in the world alone. and it did not just start spinning the day you where born. you got legacy roads and sizes that your car needs to fit in and and and. Designing a car and fitting all regulations and demands in is not easy task. Easy of assembly, my ass. You think its easy to assemble 1000 parts in compression to 100 parts? Yeah always blame some else.
@@LDZMarder That has nothing to do with it. Not every vehicle is moronically designed or built like shit.
@@dwightmitchell1464 imagine if they mandated car companies to just make things right so they last way longer
I spent years as a Mazda mechanic I left at the end of 2011 a year or two before the skyactive stuff came out but I found that sometimes it was easier to drop the engine out of the bottom to do some stuff on certain vehicles I could have an engine and trans out of a Mazda 3 in an hour an automatic transmission replacement paid around 5 hours I would be done in 3 hours by dropping it as an assembly and swap it over on the bench the wiring was set up in such a way you unplugged a few connectors and undo a few ground bolts and set it on top of the engine
This is how old VW bugs and almost all Porsches work - you simply drop the entire engine and transaxle and pull it apart on a bench. Kind of inventive, if you think about it.
2.2 disel is hell on wheels i hate that engine they produce so much soot and clog intake mainfold egr dpf i hate it
That 2.2 diesel is the worst motor ever,I would rather work on Euro cars than pos ..
The worst thing, is that all those cables, sensors, pipes and plastic parts are still the originals. After disassembling and assembling all that "materials" they have to pray that nothing will be broken by fatigue or stress in a few months. It's a play with fate and a huge responsibility for the mechanic. Undoubtedly, there must be relationship of absolute trust between the client and the workshop.
For the Audi Q5 it's an endless POS money pit. Even the simple coolant lines that go into the coolant reservoir crack when doing s simple maintenance service haha
Gotta get that 6 month Warranty on repairs for these
Nice one, car Wizard. I remember strripping down the engine in my first car, a 1966 Ford Cortina ('Kent' or 'Essex' engine, forget which now, 1500cc) and it was SO SIMPLE in comparison ! There would barely have been ONE of your carts with bits taken off to do a head gasket replacement.
I can remember my older brother taking an engine out of a mk 2 cortina without even using a lift (big man just got in the engine bay and lifted it out ) he had new shell bearings back in and running in a few hours.how things have changed for the worst 🤪
@@cedhome7945 The Mark 2 Cortina was almost the same engine but had a cross-flow arrangement (inlet on one side, exhaust the other).
Sure, they were manageable by hand, no huge weight at all. It took a bit more to remove the 'bottom end'., I think I had help for that but no lift required.
When I finished working on it, I remember carrying the 'short engine' downstairs from my flat.
Pretty good engines IMHO.
Me and my friend did a complete engine rebuild on a 1982 VW Golf 1.6 engine in less than a day back in the mid nineties. Barely a full desk of parts. I would not dare to do it on a modern motor.
Those were the days. I had a 1968 Volvo 144. It was the simplest thing to work on imaginable and a very roomy engine compartment. Being a Volvo, the parts were not cheap but everything was easy to do.
I really respect you, Car Wizard. You really go all the way, down the rabbit hole, get your hands dirty, et cetera. Me too!
Compared to the cost of new vehicles its worth paying the 4 grand to fix it! My company had to replace a Hemi 6.4l on a truck that should have moved on to the parts lane, but truck costs are astronomical and we needed the truck to keep work flowing. It is what it is Wizard keep up the continued great work your doing:P
@@tellucas Or they could just swap in a more reliable engine option that was available on that particular model.
While I would agree, it sucks that customers only have the 4K repair as the option. Perhaps with different engineering and design work, the part wouldn't fail as much and repairs would be simpler/cheaper.
@@Blippity_Bloop64 Subaru used to have a similar issue with the graphite coating on their head gaskets failing over time on the N/A 2.5L models. But the issue could be fixed using the multi layer metal gaskets from the turbo models. But if Mazdas turbo model gaskets are the problem then the only hope is if the aftermarket provides a better gasket.
21:00 as an operations guy I'm with you 100% on this, Wizard. A bigass job like this would throw a bottleneck onto any smaller shop that would stymie the turnover of the business and clog up the whole flow of operations. Now I see how your business has a niche - you guys can specialize in these types of jobs and charge a slightly higher rate that covers the additional overhead from the space. Makes complete sense, thanks for enlightening us.
hes not charging higher, its 17+ hours of labour he's charging the price of the work required
@@THAT3GGT Your assertion that he isn't differentiating his service offering and charging a premium for that point of differentiation (which is extremely well marketed via the "Car Wizard" channel) shows tremendous ignorance of basic business acumen. The shop has a higher overhead rate due to the additional real estate. There is no law that states that a mechanic must bill his services out at a commoditized, universal flat rate. That is not the way to run a business. Ask me how I know.
@@lashlarue7924 my point is he's charging a fair price for the work done numbnuts. My BMOS business degree would suggest I do understand basic business concepts especially something as elementary as your operations management insights. Go touch grass and find a woman to pester instead of bothering me.
Far easier and efficient to drop the engine and trans on turbo Mazda’s onto a table and take it apart in comfort. Takes me about an hour to have in on the ground. I’ve done one cylinder head that was cracked but not overheated and several other engines that had cracked cylinder heads and went full nuclear and would barely drive into the shop, never a head gasket though. Good find. Mazda Technician in Southern Ontario here.
I did head gaskets myself on my gen 2 LT1 (Similar to grandpa's three fiddy) and I thought that was intense. Yeee-ikes on this new stuff!
I’ve only worked on numerous 4 cylinder engines, and one V12. Nothing in between. The V12 was a Mercedes M275 twin turbo that needed oil leaks fixed. Involves taking the engine out, taking the heads heads off and replacing countless o-rings. The engine valley cover also needed a gasket. I had to borrow another customer’s V12 S-Class as reference to route all the turbocharger waste-gate vacuum lines. In the end when it was all finished, the turbos didn’t want to boost. I accidentally switched 2 sensor connectors on the intake. When it was all said and done, it was actually quite a good feeling haha!
I've worked on LT1s in a few Roadmasters and Fleetwoods. They aren't too bad when you start to look at something like this. The worst trouble I had was replacing a mounting bracket that I couldn't find at a parts place. At least with a 350, if you fix it right, you know you won't have any problems for a long time. All this turbo crap we're slapping on everything isn't helping reliability
@@Dcc357 Bro I got anxiety reading that lol
@@flotowncomputerguy6243 Amen!
YOU ROCK CW! As someone that works on my own cars, you are a true repair guy.
Car Wizard: One thing you should do in the description of your videos is to include the year AND the mileage of the car along with the type of transmission. I kept thinking about this video and wondering how many miles is on this car?
Parts carts are super handy. I make and mod many for my home machine and welding shop and put everything on wheels (including my lathe and mill for which I fabbed removable frames that take scaffolding casters). When everything rolls rearrangement and cleaning become very low effort. Viewers may enjoy doing what I do buying industrial carts at auction which often go cheap when they are specialty items custom fabbed for specific tasks. I pick those made of common angle and flat bar so I can cut and weld to turn them into styles I prefer.
Man - you guys must be so glad you got all those carts and tables when you did. I remember the video when you showed them all gathered up - what a life-saver they've become for projects like this. And yes, I remember the TVs and VCRs on them, and the reel projectors before those!
"And yes, I remember the TVs and VCRs on them". I remember very similar and I am in Australia. They are an excellent buy and idea for the purpose they are being used .
And in my elementary school we had filmstrip projectors and had to turn the filmstrip every time we heard the "beep" on the cassette or record.
@@martyneilan8947 HA! Oh man, yes, I remember that too; that came before the VHS and Beta players. XD And sooner or later, you'd be watching something with the class and POOF - projector light burns out.
Seeing this revived by dream of taking, like a 52 Dodge or 49 International pickup, bone stock in line 6 flathead,
Making the whole nose tilt forward,
Making a dumping bed box,
And hinging the cab to tilt sideways on one frame rail.
Simple, basic, and serviceable as all hell
Bluetooth cab. WIFI bed. Engine: Landline😂
Toyota uses a similar plastic baffle in their 4 cylinders in the Corolla. I saw one where the water pump failed, and the engine had been so overheated the plastic baffle melted so it didn't want to come out of the block.
It's on the V6 also, I saw them on my 06 IS250 when I was doing the head gasket.
I speculate that is the function of the plastic thing in the coolant jacket, to indicate if the engine was over heated.
The 2016-2019 heads had casting defects, Mazda fixed the issue and issued revised part numbers. If you put that same (old) head back on, it will leak again for sure
Yeah I know right! When I do those heads for the same problem I drop the engine and tranny I can get it all dropped in about an 1.5 then remove the head and it’s sooo much easier . I guess the next video will be of him replacing that head lol
If so this repair probably won't last long. "Leak free" but for how long?
Until June 2020 to be precise.
June 9th 2020
Is that just the 2.5T or NA 2.5s too?
I hear you. We just did a F-150 3.5 turbo. Parts everywhere. And what's worse, it was an aftermarket warranty company that refused to replace the water pump and timing chains.
Did the owner bite the bullet and pay for those "extra" parts?
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq Nope. Just called non stop until it was finished. The warranty company wouldn't pay for machine shop fees either.
And now I hope you're refusing to do any warranty work for that company.
@@P_RO_ It's typical for a warranty company.
I’ve never seen one of these torn down to this level with the engine still in the car. At Mazda we just drop the subframe and drop the engine out the bottom onto a table and work from there. Very cool to see!
That's the first thing I thought of like the Toyotas. No Ford or Mazda 2.5 for me. Still a good EV car gets the retail 50K extra costs from the jump.
Well done video, it was informative and detailed. Your explanation of all the work, parts to remove/reinstall, in order to do a repair, is like a surgeon pausing to explain to an audience while performing a surgery.
You certainly have gone through lots of effort to create such a video. Keep them coming!
I've done 4 cylinder heads, and head gaskets on the skyactive engines. you do not need to remove the entire exhaust system. drop the sub frame next time makes everything so much easier.
Oh relax tough guy everybody has there own way of doing things ..
It’s easier just to drop the entire engine assembly like they do in the factories.
Make a video please
How many miles did that motor have on it?
I had a head gasket blow (and warp the head) on a 92 Plymouth Sundance in about circa 1997. With my dad's help, I managed to DIY and repair it, and get a junkyard head to replace it. From memory I'd say the parts filled up about one of the carts. It was by far the most in depth repair I've one on a car before, and since. I wouldn't do it again.
But this? I had no idea head gasket repairs had gotten so bad.
that was probably a Mitsubishi head. They made decent enough 4s. Quick to repair. Crap ECMs though.
@@timewa851 Did Mitsubishi make heads for Chrysler cars in 1992? Wikipedia says this car used a 2.2 Chrysler K engine.
Whatever it was, it was junk. The replacement head from the junkyard was cracked. I think I got it for next to nothing because of this. The crack didn't seem to matter, as the car ran for another 6 years or so before dying. IIRC someone told me these heads on this engine were all junk, and prone to cracking.
Ahh.. the 90s, when American cars were at their worst. This was the first, and last truly American car I ever owned.
Having work for Mazda for a bit, not surprised by what you are showing.
The Skyactive 2.5 TURBO (the non turbo are ok) are prone to coolant leak and oil burning
It's good to hear an ex-Mazda person saying this. I've been looking into buying a used CX-5, but I would definitely buy a non-turbo.
@@Edyth_Hedd
Non turbo what?
All modern cars have turbo, you act like theres a "non turbo" option to be had in that segment, at least the Mazda is relible
I have this engine in my 2021 Mazda 3 Hatchback... Im more than SURE Weight has alot to do with it.. Why would you put a 4 cylinder turbo is a Massive car like a Cx9...
@@sirgrundel
Because modern turbo 4s make more HP and torque than older v8s
The base 4 door Silverado has a turbo 4 that has more HP than a early to mid 2000s Chevy V8
I am really appreciative of your videos and I am a fan. I find them to be very educational. I was going to have a similar problem with my 2017 Honda CRV touring. I was one of the lucky ones that had an oil dilution problem with the 1.5 L engine. I bought the car new in December 2016. Started realizing the past year I was losing about a cup of two of coolant every 6 to 8 weeks. There was no leak visible. Then I started having problems with fuel injectors. The car kept on acting like it was going to stall out. No codes were shown. The dealership was more or less dumbfounded. And when the fuel injectors and spa plugs were replaced, ran well for a week or so then I had same stalling issues on acceleration. I believed it was a Throttlebody issue, but the dealership was not too enthused of changing it being that there were no codes, and the car was running fine when I brought it to them. This forced me to trade it in for 2023 Lexus GX 460. My CRV had only 61,000 miles. Got rid of a headache. Keep making those videos. I spread the word about you and your honesty, thank you again.
Pretty thorough explanation of what to expect if you plan on doing a head gasket on this car. Also it will help a lot of customers understand why it cost so much for this repair. Keep these videos coming!
I remember the TV carts. When the teacher wheel them into class we were always stoked. Watching some VHS with the classroom lights off was always more fun than anything else they had to offer. HAHA
I remember movies and filmstrip projectors. Got pretty good at threading movie film through projectors when the teachers had no luck. And then the video players would try eating tapes because zero head cleaning was being done.
The sound of the cart being rolled in signaled naptime for me.
@@mplslawnguy3389 Hahaha I relate to that
3:11 ALWAYS put your bolts back as you take parts off your car. You'll save yourself hours of time finding bolts and figuring out which bolts go where.
Magnetic tray or muffin tray at least.
@James French I use those when the bolts can't be put back in. For example the head he's sending to the machine shop.
Ever since applying this method I've never had a stray/leftover bolt or had to search for them. Saves me loads of time.
If you're going to reseal the plugs with teflon tape, make sure the tape is rated for high temperatures. If I remember correctly, most teflon, PTFE, tape is rated for ~270 degrees Celsius maximum. Exhaust headers can get way more hot. Use the appropriate sealant or otherwise the sealant will simply burn away.
more than 270, it would not be possible to have PTFE. each and every PTFE can only go up to 270°C
@@skataskatata9236 You're correct. I was already thinking of other sealants.
That's what I was thinking when he said "Teflon"
Not to mention Teflon tape doesn’t even seal.
It’s lubricant for threads
If they are coolant plugs they won't hit 270C
That way of thinking is what makes you an extraordinary professional and an excellent person... all my admiration for you WIZARD.
I’ve worked on several vehicles with the bulk of them being old Chevy trucks when I was younger. Just started loosing coolant on this Mazda and now it won’t start. This video was so depressing but very informative and I do appreciate the time you spent going into such detail. I’d feel good about bringing mine to your shop, though knowing my luck, you’re probably no where near me. I subscribed and look forward to seeing more content. Maybe I can learn more to work on whatever piece of used crap I’m going to have to drive while I wait to fix this one. Thank you, Sir.
Owned a 2.5 NA skyactiv Mazda 6 for several years. Seems the NA ones are bulletproof, they turbo ones haven't been around as long and still seem reliable, but they definitely have more issues than the NA ones.
You are the man car wizard. I love these break downs and going through these modern cars. When my 2019 WRX eventually needs the timing belt and water pump replaced I’m seriously thinking of bringing it to you. I only trust you to do that job properly and honestly. Love your work keep it up.
This makes me happy I have a Corolla. I don't really have to worry about it, but if it does break it's super simple to fix just about anything.
Do you have a basic Corolla? Those are fine and simple. It’s the higher sport models that you have to worry about.
@@BabyBugBug yeah it's an LE
Iam so glad to know there is an honest competent shop to go to for thorough auto repair, thanks Mr.Car Wizard.
I've worked a little on my old BMW 3-series E90, Best car i've owned - And I remember complaining when there were hidden bolts 'n stuff to replace the waterpump, and thought it was tricky as a someone that haven't done that much myself - And looking at this, man - hell no. You earned yourself a sub
I have a 2019 Mazda CX-9 in my driveway right now. Bought it new and now only 34k miles. First drop of coolant I see from engine (not coolant system) it will be immediate trade-in!
Just fyi... there was an issue with the casting of this head. There were some that had major defects which caused it to crack. It actually happened to mine at 94k miles a couple months back. Thankfully mazda stands behind their product and paid for the newly updated head and gasket replacement in the amount of about $5400. My out of pocket was only $290!! I am a mechanic myself and knew something wasnt right and when the head was taken off it was not the gasket but an actual crack in the head itself. People with head issues on the newer mazda turbo cars need to call Mazda Corporate right away to figure out if theh are within the range of cars that had issues.
It would be easier to drop the motor and trans with the sub frame. I believe the liner is cylinder wall supports. Since they are floating the cylinders to improve cooling at the combustion area.
You gotta love how they design these cars. You have to disassemble them to do the most simple things.
There is zero thought given to ease of repair when new vehicles are designed. The priority of modern day car manufacturers is how cheaply and quickly can they slap these things together and ship them out. Once it's out the door (and out of it's warranty) they could care less about the poor SOB who's gonna be servicing the thing.
Well, we know its true for sure now after seeing this.
The government mandates lower emissions every year. People still want their cars to get on the highway in less than a week. So what we get are smaller displacement more complicated engines. This is why BEVs are going to replace ICE vehicles by the end of this decade.
i had the same problem to a Mercedes W140 right now. When i see how many parts it was on this mazda, the Mercedes was waaaay less parts and much easier to work with.
great work :) greetings
I would really have liked confirmation that the head itself is not cracked or damaged. As commentors on your previous video noted, regarding this same model vehicle, there is a TSB out there regarding cracked cylinder heads and resultant coolant leaks. I mean, if you put this engine back together and it still leaks coolant because the head is bad, well, oof. A really big 'oof'.
He pulled the head dude I’m pretty sure he’ll inspect it first
Head should be checked for flat, surfaced as necessary, checked for cracks and valves done or at least checked. Not sure what Omega plans on doing but…
Did all three of you fall asleep before the end of the video? He is having the head sent to a machine shop for inspection.
8:10
Anything aluminum has to be re-machined. It's just too prone to warping or corrosion from fluids. There is no reassemble - you simply send it off and get it back a few days later.
if i had to guess on the plastic jackets on the block
it would be to focus the cooling effect on the cylinders as it is an open deck design instead of the block by insulating it from the coolant
More likely it's the other way round, decreasing warm-up time by stopping coolant loosing heat to the outside of the block.
I’d do the water pump and plugs while they are out. Along with new belt.
I'm pretty sure if they're dumping $4k into that repair it probably includes a new waterpump, belt, and plugs.
Back and n 2020 my Chrysler Town and Country needed a new head gasket. The car had the 3.3 liter engine. I live in Queens, NYC. I called several auto repair shops they were quoting me $4500 but none of them wanted the job. They couldn't have a repair bay and two master mechanics tied up for three days. In that same bay in three days they could service 12 cars. I had to buy a new car. Unfortunately when your car needs a new head gasket its totalled!!
I did a slap job on one of the last carbureted Civics (88?). Without disconnecting most of the vacuum hosed, i lifted the head slightly with the intake and hoses still attached. Cleaned the mating surfaces as best I could and bolted it all back together. It went another 6 years before they wrecked it
This is amazing, the amount of parts is just too much. But, The Wizard tackles this repair with a professional attitude. Kool vid as always.
The plastic liner inside of the water channel is designed in a way where in some markets like Dubai for example they can take that thing out and just let the car cool off normally whereas in North America or more winter conditions it will allow the car to warm up faster it's basically there to reduce the cooling capacity so that the car warms up faster that's it
Very interesting to know, thank you!
That seems odd because how does the manufacturer where the car will operate up north or down in Texas.
@@aliasgertayabali5260 no idea but they are basically there to make the car warm up faster but there are different domestic markets in every country
@@aliasgertayabali5260 usually at the factory they will build a certain number without the baffle to fill an order, those cars will have special VINs.
All this heat just for the emissions, while the engine is being stressed out to the point either it cracks or blows the headgasket. So while at it why not fix the root of the problem. If its possible remove the plastic liner, drill a bypass hole in a thermostat. Maybe it will take longer to warmup but will keep the engine on a safe side. And i wouldn't be surprised if that plastic is cracked and its pieces blocking some passages.
If anything is warped on a turbo engine, it will be the block, not just the head. You need to check both. Turbo engines need a lot of cooling management.
I have a CX-9 and is an excellent car. Thanks for show me what I will have in front of me when I start having this coolant leak.
And I remember people ragging on me when I said the easiest way to do the head gaskets on my Subaru was to pull the motor. But I could do that in just a couple of hours in my driveway, then maybe 1.5 hours on the stand for removal and reassembly. Maybe 8-10 hours from start to finish. Far quicker than I'm sure it took to yank all that while under the hood.
This vehicle makes my VW Phaeton 8 cylinder look relatively simple. When the Phaeton came out everyone said, "watch out" it's a maintenance nightmare. I've redone all the major stuff. It has 100k on it and it purrs like it's new. I still drive it everyday. Thank you for pointing out which vehicles to avoid like the plague. Keep doing this type of video so we consumers can be wise shoppers.
this job is pretty simple as a mazda tech i enjoy doing these engines if they had simply dropped the engine and trans it would take about 1 hour and a half to remove and do the headgakset thatway
@@abdulaelchami7851 Exactly what I was thinking--"why no just pull the engine at this point?"
Greetings from a fellow Phaeton owner (Diesel V6) although I do believe it's a money pit. Electric trunk release broke 2 times on me, new part close to 500€ and that's just engineered junk with all those plastic gears inside. Air condition went out, another 700 for a new condenser or whatever they are called plus I need to do the front axle, bushings are worn out after a 100.000 miles and the car eats tires like nothing.
Never had issues like that on my old Opel /GM Vectra God I miss this car
@@computercrack One must remember the Phaeton is a very heavy luxury car. I am still using the original trunk release. It does become disoriented now and then but that is an easy fix. It stopped working once and the dealer told me they would have to pull the carpeting and seats to run a new line to the trunk. I took it to an independent dealer and they got it working for a pittance. A good mechanic is a big plus. I have a 2004 Phaeton and I suspect the trunk release was "re-engineered" later and became problematic. Suspension problems will be common due to the car's weight, just like on Rolls and Bentley cars. My main blower fan went out on the A/C and yes it cost about 1k to fix. When you get into a 100k car you need to budget these expenses. It goes with the territory. My largest bill was 11K for the major service at 60k miles plus the A/C work. In addition, the front suspension was repaired as necessary. My car is now 20 years old and purring fine. I think I got my money's worth. I haven't had a car payment in 20 years.
@incog99 SKD how do you fix the disorientation? You mean the trunk lid doesn't open all the way? That's also an issue I had. I know about the cable to the trunk which tends to "break" but that's working fine for me, it's actually the gears inside the lock that are broken just like in the actual video from the wizard with the dead ac actuators. Anyway you are right, it's a luxury car and you have to pay luxury prices. But if I had to come up with 11k in repairs I'd just junk the car, it's not even worth that much.
You might find the video from "swisscarguy" interesting about the cost of ownership of his Phaeton about three years, it's just ridiculous. Although I really like the car I don't want to put up with all these issues anymore and I need a bigger car for the family anyway so I'll probably get a Citroen C4 grand Picasso.
I love Wizard humor!! 🤣👍🏻
Most anything modern with a turbo on it is a pain to work on. Little plastic hoses everywhere layered upon each other that snap clean off when you look at them. And gotta love running coolant through 1/2 of them.
Yep coolant seems to always be an issue with turbo vehicles hence the audi 2.0 and the gm 1.4 turbos lol
And now they want to turbo everything. I'm so pissed dodge is replacing the n/a hemi with a twin turbo Hurricane motor.
I just replaces my 2009 BMW Twin Turbos. OEM turbos are $2k each. I found aftermarket upgraded turbos for $1300 for both and much better built. To put them in was a 3 day job. Had to remove the entire bottom of the car. So I did the oil pan gasket too. Still, nothing like this nightmare.
Hmm. How should I put it? The prices in the US are astronomical then. This job would cost 1 grand (possibly 1.5 grand) in a shop like yours here in Poland and max 2 grand at the Mazda dealership.
Yes Toyotas really are that good. 240k on my 03 matrix and 300k on my 00 Avalon and still going strong no major issues in over 20 years of ownership.
Honestly it’s amazing they can build these cars for the amount they charge. I know they’re not cheap, but still just incredible. Do you think this gasket problem is due to the heat from the turbo as opposed to a NA engine?
oh they build the stuff pretty damn cheap, you can bet most of the parts are made in commie china with slave labor for pennies.
Plastic liner is to help engine warm up real quick, to meet emissions requirements for startup. Pull it out before it break apart on high mileage and block coolant channels.
I am really not familiar with the labour prices in the USA, but I work as an automechanic in Germany and I can tell you that this kind of job would cost about 2000-2200 Euros , parts included, around here
How much is labour price in Germany?, Thanks.
@@WaseiSub it depends on the workshop. It is around 70 to 100 euros pe hour
@@Bata.andrei That's very good.
When I brought my 2008 SAAB 9-5 into the GM dealer to have my recalled Takata air bag replaced, I looked on the wall and the labor price was $185/hr. I was shocked. My indy SAAB master tech charges me $90/hr.
While there I overheard the service writer tell an older women that her remote needed a new battery. He quoted her $75. I sidled up to her and offered her the new battery that I had just installed in my remote.
I asked for a paper clip, popped out my CR1632 battery and put it in her remote. It literally took 30 seconds. She asked how much, and I said, "On the house." I got home and popped another CR1632 battery into my remote. I understand overhead, but these dealerships are out of control.
@@hoppysport2872 I completely agree.
Really appreciate you Car Wizard. I learn so much from these videos. I have been recommending Mazda CX-9 to family and friends. I will stop doing that.
Mazda redesigned the head casting in '22 if memory serves. The new ones should be better.
There were no issues with the Made in Japan models we receive here in Australia. Ours are Lexus standard. North American Mazda's are made in USA and Mexico. They had terrible quality control issues however Mazda Japan had to step in and help out from late 2021. This car in this video is the very old model. @@imkindofabigdeal4308
Makes me happy that I own two mustangs one 2000 v6 and one 1989 foxbody. The foxbody is so easy to work on over what kind of cars we see in the last decade. Granted my 2000 v6 has never had a major issue in th we engine bay.
Great video Wizard! Makes me just want to just go out and buy an old Model T.. Or at least a late 60's Ford truck with a 300 I-6. I could fix anything by myself in my driveway and it would outlast me.
That 300-6 was a fantastic motor.
I'd recommend an old Volvo, actually. Those inline 4 engines were indeed bulletproof and dead simple to work on. As a secondary option, an old 60s or 70s Mercedes before they started adding smog equipment and electronics. Also dead simple to work on.
Frankly, $4000 for this much work seems like a bargain
I agree, very reasonable actally.
Don't go jumping to conclusions. Wizards not done yet.
The work itself is, but for a relatively new-ish car I'd be miffed.
@@MattExzy Should still be under warrenty or does the US not have the Mazda 10 year warrenty/150000km whichever comes first campaign?
Gotta see how long it will last
Good God, that Mazda exploded all over the Wizard's shop. Good thing all the parts landed neatly on those carts.
Hahahaha!!
I only work on my own cars or friends and family for free. This video really makes me appreciate how easy doing head gaskets on my late 90s ford Taurus 3.0 v6 was. That was a weekend job and I think the kit was $100 with the gaskets and bolts.
prime example why i switched from being a mechanic. too many jobs where you have to replace part x. to access part x, part a b c d e f and g have to be removed. i live in the rust belt so removing parts a b and c involve getting the torch out and maybe snapping off a bolt. and parts d and e are rusted together and break in half coming off. hats off to all mechanics out there, it takes a lot of patience and knowlege and attitude to do the job right and your usually underpaid and worth every penny!
Now I fully understand why some shops refused to work on this car. How much would a Mazda dealer charge for all this?😮
You'd probably be enticed to trade it in.
@@Wheelman1966 Yup, they'd hope you'd trade it in for a song for a new Mazda shitbox, then they'd fix it on the cheap and sell it for a big profit.
Would you even trust a dealership to do a proper job?
I have a friend who literally had his subframe rot out from under the engine in Alabama where no salt is used on the road. They told him to buy another car. Mazda is not built to any quality these days. It's not like 30 years ago when they'd hold up for a half million miles
A dealer would just want to swap the engine honestly.
The dealer didn't have those plugs because dealers don't rebuild engines anymore. Years ago, while working on an F-250, I needed a new piston head and rings. Nobody had them, not even the dealers. Napa was able to order them both (from the one and only supplier for each of them). The piston said made in India. This was for a 351 Windsor engine. How much more common can you get? When I asked around about why the dealers don't have these parts, one of the Ford dealers told me that if a customer has an engine that is bad, for ANY reason, they replace it with a new or rebuilt one shipped to them in a crate. They then send out the bad engine to the one and only place in the country that rebuilds them. They don't really "fix" cars anymore. They read computer codes and replace what it tells them is bad.
I was surprised when a Toyota dealership told me that they don't fix cylinder heads in house but rather ship them out to a machine shop.
But if a guy only needs a few shims at $20 each, this is a lot better than having to rip into the engine to take off the cylinder head and drifted off to a machine shop and then put it back on the car.
I’ve heard the same, I agree.
2023 Mazda 3 AWD Turbo... Been saving up to put a substantial down-payment on one.
Then I see this video. One guess which engine is in her. I'm not going through this $4K nightmare down the road. Heck in my neck of the woods, the shops would likely charge $6K. And that's _if_ any of them even decide they want the headache of trying to fix the issue. Still going to save up my money. Not sure what I'll buy now. Thanks for saving me from a horrendous repair bill, Car Wizard.
Id get one of the new 2023 GR Corollas. Quick hatchback with AWD and a 6speed manual.
Ive been reading the comments and it seems that its a cylinder head defect that has been corrected since 2019. You should be fine
@@Jumalten001
My neighborhood, you're better off with the security of a locking trunk. Also, not interested in a manual. For me, the 3 was going to be a do-everything vehicle. Last thing I want is my left leg and right arm to feel like they're about to fall off when I get to work with the type of traffic we have in my city.
This issue is a TSB covered by Mazda. I have no idea why he didn't send them to the dealer. That and he made the job way longer and more frustrating than it had to be by not dropping the powerplant out of the car. It's standard procedure to do so on Mazda turbo cars. Regardless it's not an ongoing issue and has been corrected. Incidents like these are not common on the modern Mazda vehicles.
Thanks wizard. The shop works because of your integrity and amazing work ethic. Thanks for this video! I am surprised you can do this for 4K.
Wow! Great breakdown. That repair is worth every penny.
Mazda wasn’t playing when they said they were trying to go upscale/upmarket wit their vehicles because this is definitely a luxury car difficulty level and cost repair😂
For economy car performance
@@Syncopia lmaoo 😂
todays definition of luxury = junk nobody with a brain wants
@@Syncopia
They have stellar performance
They arent charging luxury prices
What other car in that segment offers luxury and sport for such a low msrp?
@@Syncopia no they are definitely performing at least a class above maybe 2. I can tell you haven’t driven any Mazda is 10 + years
i like it when you say "but wait there's more" , i believe the 2010's have destroyed many industries including auto and in all your videos you seem to demonstrate what i believe since 2013 till now
What?
Did they check for a TSB or Goodwill repair?
Retired mechanic after 45 years of work. I drive a 1984 toyota truck. Been there with more than 1 cart of parts. the big thing a few years back was the head gaskets on the Subarus. I could have the engine out of the car and the heads off and on the way to the machine shop before lunch. One of the last memorable jobs I did before calling it quits was a 2014 Honda Pilot for an engine over heat and cam shaft damage. The whole subframe had to come out of the car, kinda like you see now when driving past a Ford dealership and see the trucks outside with the body in the air and the chassis on the ground
A friend warned me about Mazdas!! Initially, I thought he was bs’ing me, but apparently he knew what he was talking about because he used to own one. With this video confirming my fears and my friends warning, “touching” a Mazda will be a near impossible thing for me to do!!!
I don’t think it took an hour to change the head gaskets on my 73 Buick - this is insane.
Insane? No, this is what governments and car companies want to do to you and me.
Apparently this is a well-known issue with Mazda 6s, CX-5, and CX-9s with the 2.5L Turbo engine. Mileages range from 45k-110k when they start to fail. Some owners have mentioned they've had their engines replaced at 75k (or by their warranty/good will replacement) for this issue only for it to happen AGAIN at 110k with the replacement engine!
It's a known defect (corporate knows too) and refuses to do a recall.
"A casting defect in the block and/or cylinder head causes a coolant leak that's hidden behind the exhaust manifold and turbocharger."
I can guarantee after CarWizard makes this repair, the owner will return again sometime in the future for the SAME issue. Just watch.
In fact, I'd recommend CarWizard to tell the owner to sell the vehicle after repairs if they can.
This is also why I'm heavily against purchasing vehicles today with turbocharged engines as there are more moving parts and more pressure within the engine. Manufacturers are looking for a cheap and quick way to generate more power with a smaller engine.
No, thank you. NA engines all the way.
My feeling too. The turbo engines run higher pressures with the same head, head gasket and head bolts. The turbo's themselves have a lot of moving parts under high temperature. Its a recipe for endless expensive repairs down the road.
Nissan SUV 1991.
2.7 Turbo diesel.
cast iron block, cast iron head.
gear drive camshaft and injection pump with pushrod OHV (no chain/no belt)
No problems in 32 years....and counting.
Engines with a reputation for warping cylinder heads are usually alloy....
the same engines where available with a cast iron head were bullet proof....
funny that.....
That’s interesting I believe the Ford focus RS had a similar issue as well as of course the Audi 2.0 Or a guy who runs a euro shop told me they get hairline cracks on the block
I think what they are really trying to do is create big power while maintaining EPA mileage requirements. That's why they are putting them in trucks now for sure. I'll never drive a working truck with a turbo or twin turbo motor.
There’s a guy with a 2018 civic 1.5T with 700k miles. This has nothing to do with turbos. It’s how they improperly manufactured the block. That literally can happen with any garbage manufacturer. Honda makes excellent turbo engines in terms of reliability. Ford/GM/Chrysler/every German brand has made both garbage turbo and non turbo engines. It’s not a coincidence.
People don’t seem to understand why you should only be buying Honda or Toyota.
MAGIC MIKE IS PURE TALENT, DEFINITELY WORTH $5000 A WEEK 😊
A very deawteeaw way to start, swimming through parts. Great work Car Wizard.
I repaired my girlfriends Subaru head gasket engine out job (fun lol) it had the same issue the black coating missing in sections which was causing it to over heat however the replacement gasket was 2 thin metal gaskets with no coating.
I guess this was filmed a little while ago because we already heard in a Previously released car wizard video that Magic Mike is no longer with the company.
Oh man. I did not know that. Very sad to hear. I hope it's best for Magic though.
Yeah, The Wizard's and Hoovies channel are not chronologically synced, so you occasionally get a spoiler from one or the other!