The problem faced by some BR 10e owners is that the inside of the hull can accumulate A LOT of water making it almost impossible to tilt the boat onto its bow; even if one does so, it would take a very long time to empty given the size of the bow holes. An alternative? I installed rod holders on each side of the stern of the boat. When significant water accumulates, remove one of the rod holders (3 SS screws). I can then peek into the hole and assess the amount of water. I then use an electric drill powered pump with a short length of garden hose inserted into the hole to the hull bottom. Amazing how much water can accumulate. One thing you CAN'T count on is any significant interest on the part of the Pelican Boat company in helping solve the problem. Also the ad for the Bass Raider AND the manual state all stainless steel hardware. When I noticed the staples fastening the top half of the hull to the bottom and called them, they admitted that the staples are NOT SS.
Great comment! I typically have to drain water from the BR two to three times over a full summer of use, and then only a few ounces is drained each time. It’s hard to imagine a scenario where so much water accumulates inside the boat that it would be hard to lift. Do you think the extra holes you drilled for the rod holders might contribute to the excess water? I’m very curious. Thanks!
@@northofdetroitoutdoors7404 Actually, no. The problem existed before the rod holders were placed, and they each came with a high quality rubber gasket. I know water doesn't magically appear inside the hulls, but my detective work has been fruitless. I did find a tip that suggesting checking for leaks in the dark by dropping a flashlight held by a string into the hull; just haven't gotten around to doing that.
I'm doing the dame thing, but my holes are much lower. What is the reason for drain holes being so high please? thanks my friend you have an amazing boat. Keep up the good work.
Probably to reduce the chance of water entry. I think Pelican should have placed the hull drain holes in the stern; that way the hydraulic force of water generated by forward motion would not force water into the holes if a plug is loose or does not fit tightly enough.
Yikes! Sounds like your internal foam is water logged. Must weigh a ton! I have heard of others who opened the two outer halves to expose the foam and allow it to dry. I don’t know if it can be reassembled, but would assume so. Good luck!
Why don't ya use the shop vac ? It's alot easier , tilt it forward a little bit , remove the plugs ,Insert a plastic or rubber hose that's sealed with a little duct tape into your shop vac hose into the pontoon keeping it in the water in the front of the pontoon turn it on and vac it out , do both sides , you can Syphon it out as well but the shop vac gets it all out, it's how I do my Raider if need be ,, just a little tip ,hope it helps out ,
Hey Donnie, thanks for the comment. I’m not convinced your method is easier for me since I can lift the boat pretty easily. But it’s definitely a great suggestion for others who can’t. Much appreciated! 👍🏽
@@northofdetroitoutdoors7404 it works for someone with the Raider that's got all the crap in it batteries, Trolling Mtrs , yata yata yata that ya hate to unload lol,, mines on a trailer ,it's just easier to hook up and roll for me like that , I can drop the trailer tongue to the ground and vac it out , I've seen several different ways of doing it ,saw.one.had a 12 volt pump ,it did the job I guess , So many mods I've seen done to these things it's unbelievable. I can say anyone who Fishes that don't wanna spend 20,000$ on a boat ,this is a good option for them, I've done alotta fishin with this thing , I still wonder how the hell water gets in the pontoon but , Guarenteed ,it's gonna happen ,not often ,but it will happen , everything on mine is sealed with Marine Silicone what little I've drilled , mostly screws , probably no more than 24 at the very most, but they're all siliconed, and in a place where there shouldn't be any way Water could get in , I've pondered this with no Answers yet outside of condensation but dang I can't see that much condensation accumulating , I Guess it's possible , like a say it's a option for anyone that' like me don't like unloading the boat especially with some back issues , Or even avoiding a potential back Injury lifting it like I woulda likely done 40 Years Ago lol 🤣🤣, Tight Lines To Ya , Keep It Reelin 🐟🎣🤠
@@donniedickerson8077 You are absolutely correct! Your method is much easier when the boat is loaded! Because of how I store my boat (on its side, next to my vehicle) I have to unload it every time and don’t have any mods. I think the water seeps through the seal between the top and bottom pieces of the boat. Great comment! Tight lines to you too!!
@@northofdetroitoutdoors7404 Ive wondered that myself ,, Curious,, If You ran a Bead Of Silicone All The Way Around Just Underneath That Black Band/Seal if that would actually stop that seeping , my boat is outside ,but I keep it Covered on my trailer at all times so it's never rained in or on , it stays dry ,I Made A Cover With PVC pipe and A Tarp to Fit the Boat and trailer Just Flip It off when ya ready to go and Flip it back over when ya back bungees hold it down easily if there's wind no problems , I've started to run that Bead Of silicone Around it but I've hesitated ,I haven't Had Any Other Opinions ,
@@donniedickerson8077 I’ve thought about something like that but considering how easy it is for me to just lean it on it’s side and drain the water, it doesn’t seem worth the time.
As a friend and mentor said to me years ago, "You are a master of the obvious". The bow mounted drain plugs are useless if there is a significant quantity of water inside the hull. Why? Because it's just too heavy to lift. I recently drilled a 1 inch diameter hole in the rear of each pontoon and installed a drain plugs so that I can drain either end of the boat. As I haven't used the boat for probably a year and a half, I was somewhat surprised to see water just GUSH from those two holes. The question I have is how is so much water gaining access to the space between the upper and lower hulls. I even use a water repellant boat cover. Input would be greatly appreciated.
I wish I had an answer for you. There are some who complain about the large quantities of water that enters but I’m not one. I just have a little here and there, thankfully. I used to think it seeped through the upper and lower sections but not so sure anymore. Perhaps it enters through the access holes for the electrical cables. Who knows? It’s mystery.
I bought one of these that was left outside for a long time with rain water filled up top and bottom of it. It does not leak but the foam is very heavy from sitting in water for probably a year maybe longer. Any ideas on getting the most amount of water out of it as possible to try to lighten it up ? It floats well high in the water and doesn't draw water but it weighs well over 145lbs empty. Possibly leaving it like this guy does but for weeks/months would drain it better idk.
I had the exact same issue with a bass raider I bought for $170. If left outside in the sun it may dry up in several months. I'm planning on building a solar dehydrator big enough to accommodate those foam blocks. It's just a guess, but don't see why that wouldn't work over the course of a week or two. I just have to find a way to make the build for the lowest possible cost. That's the tricky part. For now you're better off replacing the foam. Maybe use pourable marin foam in several individual containers to avoid a future headache from mechanical bonds in case you don't like the results. You can just remove the containers rather than fight to clean out the foam. Just make sure you keep everything balanced. Try to replicate the foam block arrangement by using a reference photo or something. At least that's my plan for renovating mine.
I can’t help with this issue. I have seen a video of someone who had the same issue and took the boat apart to expose the foam that seemed to be completely waterlogged. Not sure how/if they found a remedy. Good luck!
@@northofdetroitoutdoors7404 so I stood it up outside my building for a couple months with the drain plugs removed in the sun and the majority of it dried up . I also blew air into it with a shop vac and small air mattress fans and it did a nice job of drying it out. I have since installed a drain hole in the back so rain water can exit the boat and not fill up like a 10' bathtub.
@@northofdetroitoutdoors7404 As far as I'm aware the only option to is take the foam out and let it air dry over a period of several months. Otherwise it's time to think about finding a replacement for the buoyancy. I would recommend some type of plastic containers with spray foam sealed inside because even closed cell foam will eventually become water logged, but not if each little bit is sealed off.
It does. In fact the seat frames deform when heavier people sit in them, to the point that they over-expand. They always have to be forced, but they work.
@@mikestrong274 not even close. The bottoms of the chairs are seated in between two recessed channels that run the length of the boat allowing the chairs to slide fore and aft in such a way that it would be very difficult (almost impossible) to knock them out unless intentional. You’d practically have to lift them out of the recessed channels and throw them overboard. Standing up quickly is absolutely no concern at all.
The boat has two pieces (top and bottom) that enclose a styrofoam (or similar material) center which provides buoyancy. It seems water can seep through the seam that connects the upper and lower pieces. Every once in a while water will accumulate, but not very much. I typically go through the process shown in the video one or two times over a summer of heavy use.
The boat is assembled from two pieces, top and bottom, with a seam between them. It seems small amounts of water can seep through. Not much, in my experience, but some.
Welcome! It seems water can sometimes seep between the flanged portion of the boat where the molded top and bottom pieces mate. Never very much but over time it can accumulate! Thanks for reaching out!
Mine has been on the water twice.. it was fine but after one rain storm it filled up inside. It was a lot of water. Killed my back getting it out. I wish I found the other comment about using a shop vac. I guess it gets in the sides or the tiny hole with the wires.
I like the leaning against the garage idea. Fish on!
Thanks FWV! This is a pretty simple method, but is there an easier way?
Just bought one and hasn’t been in the water yet. Great idea thanks
Perfect! Exactly what I needed bro!
The problem faced by some BR 10e owners is that the inside of the hull can accumulate A LOT of water making it almost impossible to tilt the boat onto its bow; even if one does so, it would take a very long time to empty given the size of the bow holes. An alternative? I installed rod holders on each side of the stern of the boat. When significant water accumulates, remove one of the rod holders (3 SS screws). I can then peek into the hole and assess the amount of water. I then use an electric drill powered pump with a short length of garden hose inserted into the hole to the hull bottom. Amazing how much water can accumulate. One thing you CAN'T count on is any significant interest on the part of the Pelican Boat company in helping solve the problem. Also the ad for the Bass Raider AND the manual state all stainless steel hardware. When I noticed the staples fastening the top half of the hull to the bottom and called them, they admitted that the staples are NOT SS.
Great comment! I typically have to drain water from the BR two to three times over a full summer of use, and then only a few ounces is drained each time. It’s hard to imagine a scenario where so much water accumulates inside the boat that it would be hard to lift. Do you think the extra holes you drilled for the rod holders might contribute to the excess water? I’m very curious. Thanks!
@@northofdetroitoutdoors7404 Actually, no. The problem existed before the rod holders were placed, and they each came with a high quality rubber gasket. I know water doesn't magically appear inside the hulls, but my detective work has been fruitless. I did find a tip that suggesting checking for leaks in the dark by dropping a flashlight held by a string into the hull; just haven't gotten around to doing that.
I'm doing the dame thing, but my holes are much lower. What is the reason for drain holes being so high please? thanks my friend you have an amazing boat. Keep up the good work.
I can’t say. Sorry
Probably to reduce the chance of water entry. I think Pelican should have placed the hull drain holes in the stern; that way the hydraulic force of water generated by forward motion would not force water into the holes if a plug is loose or does not fit tightly enough.
I was hoping this was the solution, but mine is stuck in the water. So heavy a buddy and I couldn't pull it out
Yikes! Sounds like your internal foam is water logged. Must weigh a ton! I have heard of others who opened the two outer halves to expose the foam and allow it to dry. I don’t know if it can be reassembled, but would assume so. Good luck!
Why don't ya use the shop vac ? It's alot easier , tilt it forward a little bit , remove the plugs ,Insert a plastic or rubber hose that's sealed with a little duct tape into your shop vac hose into the pontoon keeping it in the water in the front of the pontoon turn it on and vac it out , do both sides , you can Syphon it out as well but the shop vac gets it all out, it's how I do my Raider if need be ,, just a little tip ,hope it helps out ,
Hey Donnie, thanks for the comment. I’m not convinced your method is easier for me since I can lift the boat pretty easily. But it’s definitely a great suggestion for others who can’t. Much appreciated! 👍🏽
@@northofdetroitoutdoors7404 it works for someone with the Raider that's got all the crap in it batteries, Trolling Mtrs , yata yata yata that ya hate to unload lol,, mines on a trailer ,it's just easier to hook up and roll for me like that , I can drop the trailer tongue to the ground and vac it out , I've seen several different ways of doing it ,saw.one.had a 12 volt pump ,it did the job I guess , So many mods I've seen done to these things it's unbelievable. I can say anyone who Fishes that don't wanna spend 20,000$ on a boat ,this is a good option for them, I've done alotta fishin with this thing , I still wonder how the hell water gets in the pontoon but , Guarenteed ,it's gonna happen ,not often ,but it will happen , everything on mine is sealed with Marine Silicone what little I've drilled , mostly screws , probably no more than 24 at the very most, but they're all siliconed, and in a place where there shouldn't be any way Water could get in , I've pondered this with no Answers yet outside of condensation but dang I can't see that much condensation accumulating , I Guess it's possible , like a say it's a option for anyone that' like me don't like unloading the boat especially with some back issues , Or even avoiding a potential back Injury lifting it like I woulda likely done 40 Years Ago lol 🤣🤣, Tight Lines To Ya , Keep It Reelin 🐟🎣🤠
@@donniedickerson8077 You are absolutely correct! Your method is much easier when the boat is loaded! Because of how I store my boat (on its side, next to my vehicle) I have to unload it every time and don’t have any mods.
I think the water seeps through the seal between the top and bottom pieces of the boat. Great comment! Tight lines to you too!!
@@northofdetroitoutdoors7404 Ive wondered that myself ,, Curious,, If You ran a Bead Of Silicone All The Way Around Just Underneath That Black Band/Seal if that would actually stop that seeping , my boat is outside ,but I keep it Covered on my trailer at all times so it's never rained in or on , it stays dry ,I Made A Cover With PVC pipe and A Tarp to Fit the Boat and trailer Just Flip It off when ya ready to go and Flip it back over when ya back bungees hold it down easily if there's wind no problems , I've started to run that Bead Of silicone Around it but I've hesitated ,I haven't Had Any Other Opinions ,
@@donniedickerson8077 I’ve thought about something like that but considering how easy it is for me to just lean it on it’s side and drain the water, it doesn’t seem worth the time.
As a friend and mentor said to me years ago, "You are a master of the obvious". The bow mounted drain plugs are useless if there is a significant quantity of water inside the hull. Why? Because it's just too heavy to lift. I recently drilled a 1 inch diameter hole in the rear of each pontoon and installed a drain plugs so that I can drain either end of the boat. As I haven't used the boat for probably a year and a half, I was somewhat surprised to see water just GUSH from those two holes. The question I have is how is so much water gaining access to the space between the upper and lower hulls. I even use a water repellant boat cover. Input would be greatly appreciated.
I wish I had an answer for you. There are some who complain about the large quantities of water that enters but I’m not one. I just have a little here and there, thankfully. I used to think it seeped through the upper and lower sections but not so sure anymore. Perhaps it enters through the access holes for the electrical cables. Who knows? It’s mystery.
I bought one of these that was left outside for a long time with rain water filled up top and bottom of it. It does not leak but the foam is very heavy from sitting in water for probably a year maybe longer. Any ideas on getting the most amount of water out of it as possible to try to lighten it up ? It floats well high in the water and doesn't draw water but it weighs well over 145lbs empty. Possibly leaving it like this guy does but for weeks/months would drain it better idk.
I had the exact same issue with a bass raider I bought for $170. If left outside in the sun it may dry up in several months.
I'm planning on building a solar dehydrator big enough to accommodate those foam blocks. It's just a guess, but don't see why that wouldn't work over the course of a week or two. I just have to find a way to make the build for the lowest possible cost. That's the tricky part.
For now you're better off replacing the foam. Maybe use pourable marin foam in several individual containers to avoid a future headache from mechanical bonds in case you don't like the results. You can just remove the containers rather than fight to clean out the foam.
Just make sure you keep everything balanced. Try to replicate the foam block arrangement by using a reference photo or something.
At least that's my plan for renovating mine.
I can’t help with this issue. I have seen a video of someone who had the same issue and took the boat apart to expose the foam that seemed to be completely waterlogged. Not sure how/if they found a remedy. Good luck!
@@northofdetroitoutdoors7404 so I stood it up outside my building for a couple months with the drain plugs removed in the sun and the majority of it dried up . I also blew air into it with a shop vac and small air mattress fans and it did a nice job of drying it out. I have since installed a drain hole in the back so rain water can exit the boat and not fill up like a 10' bathtub.
@@bigmanracing300 Awesome! Thanks for the info!
@@northofdetroitoutdoors7404 As far as I'm aware the only option to is take the foam out and let it air dry over a period of several months.
Otherwise it's time to think about finding a replacement for the buoyancy. I would recommend some type of plastic containers with spray foam sealed inside because even closed cell foam will eventually become water logged, but not if each little bit is sealed off.
Appreciate you much my brother ✅✝️💯👉🏿
👍🏽
Does your body weight on the seats expand the seat frame so it will stay in the frame channels so they won't tip over or fall out
It does. In fact the seat frames deform when heavier people sit in them, to the point that they over-expand. They always have to be forced, but they work.
Thanks alot, just wanted to know if I stand up quickly the seat and frame won't topple over
@@mikestrong274 not even close. The bottoms of the chairs are seated in between two recessed channels that run the length of the boat allowing the chairs to slide fore and aft in such a way that it would be very difficult (almost impossible) to knock them out unless intentional. You’d practically have to lift them out of the recessed channels and throw them overboard. Standing up quickly is absolutely no concern at all.
How does the water get in the hull
The boat has two pieces (top and bottom) that enclose a styrofoam (or similar material) center which provides buoyancy. It seems water can seep through the seam that connects the upper and lower pieces. Every once in a while water will accumulate, but not very much. I typically go through the process shown in the video one or two times over a summer of heavy use.
I need to do the same thing. What kind of plugs did you use?
The plugs came already installed.
Is there a name for those plugs. Just bought a used boat and the holes are not plugged. I’ll have to buy some. Thank you.
@@tpaulkellyeah I’m looking for plug replacements for mine as well, let me know what you find please.
How does water get in it?
The boat is assembled from two pieces, top and bottom, with a seam between them. It seems small amounts of water can seep through. Not much, in my experience, but some.
yeah leaving this boat in the rain is a big mistake.
i'd like to know how to reseal it
Wish I could help. Maybe call the manufacturer?
How did the water get inside the boat?
Welcome! It seems water can sometimes seep between the flanged portion of the boat where the molded top and bottom pieces mate. Never very much but over time it can accumulate! Thanks for reaching out!
Mine has been on the water twice.. it was fine but after one rain storm it filled up inside. It was a lot of water. Killed my back getting it out. I wish I found the other comment about using a shop vac. I guess it gets in the sides or the tiny hole with the wires.