I'm just a noob playing F1 '21 on a controller, and this helped me so much trying to drive without assists. A simple tweak of 50%->58% brake bias, and all of a sudden I can trail brake competently! What a revelation, thank you!
Awesome! So good to hear it's made a difference, you're exactly the type of player I wanted to reach. An 8% shift in bias is huuuuuuge, so it must've felt like a bloomin' ice rink before!
it always seemed overwelming but as you mentioned if I just start off with one corner thats giving me the most trouble and start with that it's now doable :) Great video, thanks
I’ve always treated brake bias and force as a static tune item. Good information, the concept should’ve been obvious with the on track options. Thanks for this.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, I hope it helps you in some small way - I rely on it on certain tracks to give me tip the odds in my favour on iRacing GTE class cars without ABS
Brand new to Sim racing and just got my Moza 5 bundle set up. Found your channel and I love how easy and clear you explain these concepts. Thank you so much.
Thanks, this video helped a lot! I always played with heavy front bias, up to 70-30 front as it helps with turning in.....but then always wondered why everyone else was able to slow down much faster. And for a while I didn't even consider how brake distance is related to brake bias. I have learned to drive with a balanced brake bias and without rear lock. Basically, you need to brake a lot harder initially and then have a shorter/less heavy trail braking as the longer you trail brake, the more the brakes heat up and possibly lock up. For each track, you need to find the limit how much to brake and how much trail braking you can do without rear lock.
I'm way more into offroad racing than track racing, I'm currently headachey and tired and at the start of this video this sounded like something I really didn't want to do, but damn it you made a really good case. I think I have to try this.
Just wanted to say that I love the livery with the dimensions on the white car you used to show the brake balance. I work in modeling and drafting for an aerospace company, so it gave me a chuckle. Great video. I've never adjusted balance from corner to corner, only to get it good enough to be stable in all corners. I've hit a plateau lately so maybe this will help me find some time.
Thank you for the excellent explanation. I ignorantly only adjusted brake bias to compensate for the engine placement and left it there and adjusted to how the car felt.
i found this info really useful. it's not a secret very fast racers always use a setup. i want to be faster but did not want to blindly follow somebody's setup without knowing what it is and how it works (what it does to your car). With setups it's too much to take in, too many options to adjust. Brake bias was always nb1 mystery for me, as I heard a lot people use it, it's used more than other adjustments. Now I understand what it is, how to use it and how crucial it is to improve lap times/it also makes easier to manage the car. Thank you
Thanks for the feedback, really appreciated. There's more to come but if you want to get ahead yourself the Skip Barber book is an absolute goldmine of knowledge: amzn.to/339MjX1
Great suggestion, I've been lazy not doing it. Think about it for over a year. This video serves well as a bit of motivation to get it setup. Thanks mate
Once you've got it nailed you will definitely feel safer and more consistent. Whenever I get lazy with it I always end up getting into trouble, so give it the attention it needs and you'll get better results for sure
Do you know if it's possible to change the magnitude of a change per click in iRacing? I have a rotary encoder but it changes the bias in 0.1% increments which means I'm turning it two full rotations to go from 52% to 54%...
I don't think there is - sometimes the bias increments are specific to each car, I saw somewhere that someone has to click an obscene number of times to change the bias to one end of the reasonable operating window to the other. Stick a suggestion in the iRacing complaints/feature suggestions forum, I would.
In the meantime you could look for a rotary encoder with fewer steps per rotation. I'm no expert but I do know they make different varieties of that feature.
Why did I not think of this, I've just seen it and decided I'll listen to it while doing a fixed gt3 race at Charlotte in the Mercedes, tweaked it for the first 5 min or so just trying to find the point, ended up going 1.5s quicker during the race and moving up 5 positions, will sub to you. Cheers
So on gt7. The bias is displayed as front is negative and rear is positive. How is that diff then you are explaining. Is it the same just worded different
If brake bias is very helpful in the first half of the corner, having different TC setting during the lap is very useful in the second half. It works very well in Monza.
I hate fiddling about with buttons while racing - I just want to get on with it - but this explains perfectly why you should do it and how the faster guys always seem to nail every corner. Thanks - just subbed, will be checking out your other content too.
Cheers man, appreciate the comment. You can drive without tinkering but you'll have to accept a potential handicap to those who do, particularly on tracks where the wide range of braking zones and particularly in classes where ABS is not present. No big deal though - It's there when you're hungry, so to speak.
There´s one thing I don´t quite understand. As you come up to the ascari chicane at 5:38 , you mention you want tick the bbal down a little bit because you want some extra turn in, but earlier in the video you said you'll want a little higher bbal for trail braiking into a turn. That sounds contradictory, isn't trail braking what you want when turning in? As in how does decreasing bbal improve turn-in when it makes the car more unstable under braking?
Because if the bias is too far forward, you'll essentially be getting understeer and won't be turning in with the proper slip angle. All he's saying is lowering it can increase turn in when needed, obviously since there's varying levels of bias required for each turn, you'll have to turn it down at some point.
@@extremeencounter7458 I’m sorry but I still don’t really understand… Is front bbal good for braking while turning? Or rear bbal? From what I understood from the video, if you’ll do hard braking in a straight line you’ll want the bias to be more rearward, so how does that then also improve turn-in? Maybe I’m stupid but I just don’t understand 😅
@@jopvandam6820 Think about, it you just raised the bias so that you can trail brake a longer corner, you’ll have to lower it so you can A) brake harder on the next turn and B) keep you from under steering on a sharper turn. Remember how the rear steps out when you lower the bias? The opposite happens when you raise it, meaning the front of the car will hug the ground, but too much will make it under steer. Lowering it makes it easier to allow the rear end to rotate out, but too much rear bias and it slides out. But if you just leave it high, the car will understeer, meaning you can’t turn in on a tighter corner
Than you for your videos. I just found your channel today; after this and your trail braking vid, I can't wait to get back on track. Your presentation, break down, and level of detail are exactly what I needed to find that 'next couple seconds'. Suddenly explained are all those moments of - how come that car pulls away from me mid corner and why am I spinning out if I push? I highly recommend subscribing and watching your channel, to anyone else learning to go faster. I've heard of trail braking for years, and now I understand it.
Thanks man, I really appreciate you taking a moment to report back after watching - it's folks such as yourself that I want to reach, I hope it translates to real gains in your sim and gets you out of the rut!
Deffo worth having on hand. I did an 80 minute race last night and having the ability to nudge the bias forward to counteract the twitchiness without even thinking about it was just one of the many things that helped win it.
i have turned my bias down from 58% to 57%, sometimes 56% Not much but my trail breaking is becoming far more effective. (Im still learning how to trail break) I drive in Raceroom, with the DTM 2020 BMW, Usually at Bathurst. and i have reduced my average lap times by nearly 1 second. Thanks for this great vid
Thanks man - I mean the Porsche is easily the most difficult car to control in the first half of the corner - I prefer the Aston as you can really attack the corners under trail braking. With the Porsche I'm usually losing it.
I haven't tried it yet, but would you agree with my thinking that brake bias should be moved forward for downhill braking, like for the Forrest Elbow in Bathurst and to the rear for uphill braking like into the Cutting, or into turn 6 (Corvette bridge) at Road America?
Thanks man, you're exactly the kind of person I aim to help, welcome and feel free to ask anything you like - check my other instructional videos too, a new one is added every so often
Thanks Danny, never actually thought of it like that. This is why iLMS this week at Sebring is going so bad. Keep locking up into the chicane, and losing the back elsewhere. Any comments on changing with fuel load?
Sebring is a fantastic example of brake bias being key to setting great race pace - if I don't tweak the bias forward a bit I find the last turn REALLY dicey, and if I don't tweak it back a bit for the deep braking zone into the hairpin I often lock up. It only takes one screw-up to start a whole chain reaction of mistakes so reducing them is always worthwhile. Fuel load burn off affects different cars in different ways - fuel burnoff and tyre wear affect the car and sometimes I find the car is twitchier the lighter it gets, I more often than not offset the bias forward one or two steps when that starts to be the case.
Another great video Danny, am just on the cusp of getting started with it. I have found it is also useful to compensate for tyre wear and reducing fuel weight. Cheers :)
The brake bias changes in Assetto Corsa are in 0.2% increments (I think). I have it bound to a rotary encoder on my Ferrari wheel and for some changes of around 2% your thumb is just a blur. They need to make the incremental change editable on a car by car basis.
So Ive never played with it having only done fixed series and not realising I could use bb. Currently doing Ferrari fixed so not a lot of time for fiddling especially with the smaller tracks. Did some testing at La Guna Seca yesterday and dialled down the bias which was better stopping power and felt settled all the way around. I didn't fiddle once I was driving and found half a second instantly.
Awesome man, great to hear, you're exactly the kind of person I want to reach - so good to know you've found such a big chunk of time with such a simple tweak, and in a fixed series too.
Brake bias is important enough for not just Renault to do auto bias control, but also McLaren putting a 2nd brake pedal in their 1998 F1 cars linked to the rear brakes for the drivers to manually control bias on the fly.
I haven't really adjusted my brake bias on the go but I thought it was the opposite. For big braking zones like at the end of the Monza straight needs lots of front bias because all the weight is on the front tyres like hard braking on a bicycle in a straight line. And to trail-brake we'd need to reduce the power from the fronts to get it to turn in more effectively. I'm surprised how close to 50 50 the bias are too. Thanks
The 'default' amount of brake bias differs from car to car based on many factors, including weight distribution and the actual leverage/effectiveness of brakes at each axle. So in a front engined car the bias will be further forward than a rear engined car where most of the weight is at the back. That's the tricky thing about brake bias, it's not one size fits all, which is where the practical observations come from that you can only get by practicing and seeing the difference it makes. Try it for yourself and you'll find yourself experiencing less lockups and spins, at least in cars without ABS the difference is certainly felt. If learning to think about bias means you avoid just one front lockup into Monza T1, it'll have been worth it, and that's often the difference between keeping a place and losing it.
@@timbuktu6730 Hopefully it makes a difference dude, in iRacing at least it is sometimes a lifesaver, on some tracks I find happiness with one settings and on others I can squeeze more out if I do tweak it as I go. Over a race distance sometimes the car gets nervous on older tires and I move brake bias forward slightly to manage the back end.
I always tought why would the brake bias make me faster maybe like 0.1 or 0.2 but it makes me 1-2 secs faster even when trying the first lap w using brake bias! Just try and figure out where the limits are for brake bias
@@dannyleeracing yeaaa! First I tought maybe I just became quicker so I tried adjusting the brake bias only 1x a lap or just dont adjust it and I drove 1-2 seconds slower and I wasnt consistent at all!
Brake bias is not something you should use as a crutch. use it as an additional tool once you feel like you are close to perfecting your cornering. nice video. good info
Thanks a lot for this video. I'm playing Assetto Corsa, and even though I know I should adjust my brake bias, I've been scared of touching it just in case I make a mistake
Cheers man, I hope it helps demystify things and if it just makes one single corner more bearable then you've just got yourself an advantage on the rest of the field.
Yes, think about it this way: If you're gonna have to trail brake, put it at the front. If there's no need to trailbrake, (like if all the braking happens before the turn), put it at the rear.
That is one aspect im imressed by watching F1 drivers. Not only do they change brake bias many times per lap but also entry.diff / exit.diff and sometimes the engine brake values. Fascinating.
Thanks for leaving nice feedback. It helps me out majorly when I give Brake Bias some effort. I've got a race coming up at Barcelona and I can hit a much more comfortable and consistent stint time when I tweak for troublesome sectors on the track.
@@dannyleeracing your welcome Danny, you UA-cam simmers are an amazing resource. My biggest weakness is breaking and more importantly getting the turn in to slow tight corners like turn one at Monza. This is where I think changing the bias and inducing a little oversteer will help.?
@@splitenz1770 Yes it will - in any corner where I feel like the car has understeer it calls for a shift of brake balance to the rear. Try decreasing bias little by little for corners like Monza T1 until it feels like it has the turn-in you need, then you know that Turn 1 is best taken with 'x' amount of brake bias and you have loads of time on the main straight to set the bias, then loads of time after T1 to put it back to normal for the rest of the course. If the car has understeer everywhere then you're looking at a different problem.
I get it using GTE cars without ABS but how does driving a GT3 with ABS affect what’s taught in this video? Are stopping distances still reduced by moving it rewards if ABS is on and stops lock-up of the fronts anyway?
Thanks man, I spent so long on the white side with all the mock technical measurements that when it came to the blue side I just went "Screw it" and bucket-filled it. Beautiful car, that was - see it in action here: ua-cam.com/video/74daUTQWyw8/v-deo.html
@@dannyleeracing What a battle, very nice job! Doesn't matter, it looks amazing from the right too :D It just hit me, is the blue colour resembling the old school blueprints?
@@ZvonECR0 You absolute genius, I never ever thought of that. That would have been an absolutely legendary design combined with the technical measurements on the white.
@@dannyleeracing hahahah glad you like it :D I might make a similar one for myself one day, since I'm about to finish my master's in mechanical engineering soon, it would fit very nicely :)
Quick suggestion. Instead of writing % for corners, have a baseline number and save the delta +1% t1, -1.5% t2. This might be less confusing to users who don’t realize or skip the info about different cars have different baseline balance.
Think about the track and car combination, tire wear and your skill and figure out the best choice. A FWD car might be better off having brake bias a bit to the rear to allow the front tires to wear less, as they don't have to brake as much, when they already need to accelerate, too.
I take it as, hard braking usually happens on a straight, from a high speed to a quite low speed. you'd want to have more braking efficiency but since it's a straight you can trade some stability for it. so you decrease brake bias and make rear brakes engage more than usual. you gain lap time in trail braking into a longer corner you don't brake as hard (= don't need as much braking efficiency), but stability is important. so you increase brake bias, let your rear wheels rotate more freely and thus get more stability at the cost of brakes not stopping you fast as they could. you gain consistency. and maybe lap time too if that increased stability lets you trail-brake more precise
This is it - it's all about stability and consistency. If you move bias too far forwards in a deep straight line braking zone you are more likely to have a lock-up which loses you more time than any minor gain you could have had. Whereas if you have bias too far back into a corner you increase the risk of a spin and losing all that time and more in one fell swoop. Over race distance, everything you can do to rub out potential mistakes is what makes the difference.
I would like to add that just to get people into considering brake-bias at all they should at least do some practice sessions where the fiddle with the pre-set brake bias. It's hard to overstate how much even just that can transform your experience on track. I say that who only somewhat recently started to use brake-bias as well.
Awesome mate, glad to hear it. I did a run of Ferrari Fixed GT3 in iRacing recently and at default bias I was having real trouble. After shifting it more to my liking it was much better, though the fixed setups still drive like sheds to me.
Man your videos are fucking awesome! I don’t consider myself a racing expert by any means. I’m a decent amateur at best. But the way you explain these little things that help in such a big way is great. Keep up the great shit brother
There's so many variables it's hard to cut cleanly - too much front brake bias increases stopping distances, too much rear brake bias causes instability. There's a lot of ways to reach the right result, but the best one is to see what works in practice. If you understeer, decrease the % until balance feels perfect. If you oversteer, increase % until balance feels perfect. If you lock the front or rear during hard straight line braking, take bias away from the end that's locking until the balance feels perfect. The important thing is to be willing to try!
Hey Danny. I find your driving tips videos super helpfull. Slipangle and trialbraking as well. Have you thought about putting them together in a playlist on you channel? greetings
ok, which kind of corners needs an increase of the brake bias? which kind of corners needs a decrease of the brake bias? and which kind of corners needs a neutral brake bias?
Could you please comment on the effect of weight transfer? On a hard braking zone the car pitches front and is more loaded than the rear so there's more grip potential there. It seems counter intuitive to be at 49% bias at T1 in Monza given this effect... also I understand the stability factor for trail braking but you will be limiting your tuning potential while trail braking with a front bias because the tyres are asked to do two thing at the same time so thats where the rear wheels can help with a bit of extra trail braking. Just wanna hear you thoughts on that, great video :)
The key thing here is that the brake bias values we're talking about here are in a really tight window, like 1%-2% variance. Also don't pay too much attention to the values on screen as they differ from car to car, sim to sim. The Ferrari 488 is mid-engined so will have more weight balance toward the rear tyres than a front-engined BMW M8, for example, and this is reflected in the 'operating window' of brake bias that you find. Weight transfer is absolutely hand-in-hand with brake bias. If you brake in a straight line you can afford to use more braking on the rear wheels because you are not unloading either side of the rear axle in the braking zone and won't risk locking a rear and spinning out. Whereas if you are braking AND turning then you want to shift the balance towards the front to avoid spinning out. When you have a well-practiced lap and you've tweaked the brake bias per corner (if necessary) to be able to hit every corner in every lap reliably and without nerves, that's what will give you better results over race distance. If you're in any way interested in all of this then the Skip Barber book is absolutely the thing for you: amzn.to/33Jzulv
Is there anyway in Iracing to increase the increment steps of the brake bias, for example in steps of 1% and not having to scroll 5 seconds to change it?
i have a question. Is brake bias relative to the shape and wheelbase of the car ? Because the weigh transfers during braking and some cars are better balanced than others in terms of weight distribution
What do you reckon the time gain is on a hot lap? I set my Ferrari at Fuji to 54% all the time because I’m only just starting to learn it I found it to be more stable so I can constantly improve, but everyone I look at uses 52% but for me that’s so hard to control on Sector 3 I can do consistent times but I have a g920 so I rely heavily on getting my braking spot on as I cannot catch the slides as easily
Whenever it makes you lose even a little piece of focus, it's no longer worth it. The sensibility with the brake pedal on the braking zone makes all the difference, as a bit of mistake in that regard could let you in trouble (with tires temp) or see the braking efficiency going out
Like anything new, when you initially introduce it, it's tricky, but soon it's second nature and is a benefit to know. I definitely needed it in some endurance races recently as the car got twitchier and twitchier as the race drew on and clicking it forward just a little brought all the confidence and stability back.
@@dannyleeracing Yeah, endurance is one of the best targets to apply this method, indeed, and I agree that there are more benefits than disadvantages for using it on this referred racing mode, while it is more important maintaining the pace stable than being extremely fast in a few laps. Nonetheless, as I've mentioned before, the 100% focus spike in the brake pedal modulation is quicker for sprint races and hot laps, unless you're gonna change the brake balance only one or twice during the lap.
Moving bias more towards the front wheels makes it less likely that you will spin when braking and turning, but it also increases the chance of locking the front brakes (in cars without ABS) which carries its own risk. Finding the perfect amount of bias to suit your style of corner entry can make it way easier to nail it every single time. If a corner feels unsafe when braking and turning in, put bias forward until it does. Might take many laps to figure out what bias works best for you and how many times it should be changed (if at all), but if you do it and others don't, you'll have the advantage.
Are you using the big red rotary dial? If so, this is a commonly misunderstood dial - you would expect 3 clicks to mean 3 clicks, but if you do it too fast it only registers 1 click. Apparently, this is by design so that you can just bash the rotary dial 3 times however hard you like and it'll register 3 clicks. Between you and me, that design is silly!....
@@dannyleeracing oh wow really , yeah that’s odd they did that , but then again Logitech doesn’t tell you to plug the wheel into GHUB when you get it either lol. Thanks for the input.
Hello Dany, great video, i have a problem wih one corner on SPA, just after No Name, you have to trail brake down hill to the left, and back of my Boatley is verry happy there and i have problems taming it... would adjusting BB help? which way?
Hey dude, sounds like you're describing pouhon. Love that corner, but it usually requires brake bias to be tweaked forward (increased) so that when trailbraking into the corner the rears are under less braking force and less likely to slip out from underneath you.
Normally (depending on the car) ABS activity is signified with a dashboard LED indicating that it's kicking in - It's more difficult to tell which wheels are locking up with ABS as it's specifically designed to counteract it, but if you disable ABS and work on the bias until it seems happy, then reintroduce ABS, you will have a happier balance and ABS will still be there to rescue you if you make a mistake. In a perfect world ABS should never kick in, but in reality GT3s and such can tempt you into making ABS do the braking for you and just braking without precision.
@@dannyleeracing The colors of the LED shows you if it's the front or the rear that is blocking up. And sometimes the LED goes up if it's the front and down if it's the rear.
Also, high for understeer, low for oversteer. High for more wear on the front tires, low for more wear on the rear tires. I had a long race at Monza in a front wheel drive Audi, and by not setting the brake bias to the back, my front tires were dead before the end of the race and I lost positions. It makes a huge difference.
Thanks so much for the videos Danny! They are really helping me lowering my times, specially this video. Just one question, it may sound a bit stupid, but anyways…do this guidelines (more front brake bias for trail braking, more rear brake bias for long straights braking) work the same for rear wheel drive cars as for front wheel drive cars? Thanks again Danny!
Yes, generally speaking the same rules still apply but it's best to take the inspiration gained from this video to do some trial and error and see what works for you - if you need the car to rotate more under braking, you reduce brake bias, and vice versa - front wheel drive race cars tend to be loose at the rear because it helps them turn when the front wheels are simultaneously pulling the nose of the car, that's why you see front wheel drive racing hatchbacks sometimes doing a tripod around corners on track! They're built to do it.
Great video, added to my list of ones to refer to as a bible! Quick critique if I may. The blue background'ed description of what the brake bias % means (at 7:54), could that be moved closer to the start of the video? Thanks for posting this.
What about as the car loses fuel and the balance changes. Do your brake bias percentages change even more for each corner, or are they different percentages all together?
I'd guess you keep adding constant offset the less fuel you have. whether you make it less or more, and by how much, depends on where the fuel tank is located if it's in the back, move the bias more to the front since the back becomes lighter and easier to lock. i.e. if with a full tank you change your bias from 50 to 52 depending on the corner, then with an empty tank your bias could change between 51 and 53, for example and if we're talking about long stints you should probably take in account your tire wear too and be more gentle (regarding brake bias) with whatever end has more wear...
When this happens and I feel like the car is twitchier than usual I'll normally offset the overall bias in whichever direction it needs. So let's say I run a 60 minute race at Monza, towards the end it's likely to feel a bit looser or twitcher, so instead of 51%>52%>54 I'll add an offset of 1% front brake bias and use 52%>53%>55% (just as an example). If I don't do this, the car just feels more and more dangerous as the slides and wobbles only add to the problems.
I use a Mclaren V2 wheel nowadays and I have my two thumb buttons above the handle grips set to BB up and BB down, they're the easiest buttons to reach whilst keeping both hands on the wheel
I tried this in real life and now I arrive at my office job 10 minutes earlier every day.
Thanks for making this tutorial.
Thanks man, are you getting an extra 10 minutes of sleep now you don't have to get up so early?
@@dannyleeracing no, he uses the 10 minutes to rewatch this video to ensure he saves 10 minutes driving to work.
@@zacjohnson452 lol
I need to learn how to make close calls to arrive to school earlier
@@zacjohnson452 😏
Good video, if a little biased
No. No no no. You can't do that.
Danny Lee Couldn’t help myself, sorry 😏
Sorry. Not sorry.. 😏
Good day Jizzle76. I represent 'UA-cam comments of the year, comment of the year committee'. We have declared you the winner of 2020, 🏆. Well done.
🤣😂🤣😂🤣
I'm just a noob playing F1 '21 on a controller, and this helped me so much trying to drive without assists. A simple tweak of 50%->58% brake bias, and all of a sudden I can trail brake competently! What a revelation, thank you!
Awesome! So good to hear it's made a difference, you're exactly the type of player I wanted to reach. An 8% shift in bias is huuuuuuge, so it must've felt like a bloomin' ice rink before!
it always seemed overwelming but as you mentioned if I just start off with one corner thats giving me the most trouble and start with that it's now doable :) Great video, thanks
Really glad it's helped you man, thanks for dropping a comment
That's a great tip! Thankyou.
And Danny, too.
I’ve always treated brake bias and force as a static tune item. Good information, the concept should’ve been obvious with the on track options. Thanks for this.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, I hope it helps you in some small way - I rely on it on certain tracks to give me tip the odds in my favour on iRacing GTE class cars without ABS
Hmm I need me one of those automatic brake boas thingys like Renault lol.
Me too man, me too.
@CLINT Yeah.. Just ask Daniel Abt about it ;)
@@theace7952 lol
Brand new to Sim racing and just got my Moza 5 bundle set up. Found your channel and I love how easy and clear you explain these concepts. Thank you so much.
Thanks so much for the kind feedback, hopefully all my other guides can be of service too!
Thanks, this video helped a lot! I always played with heavy front bias, up to 70-30 front as it helps with turning in.....but then always wondered why everyone else was able to slow down much faster. And for a while I didn't even consider how brake distance is related to brake bias. I have learned to drive with a balanced brake bias and without rear lock. Basically, you need to brake a lot harder initially and then have a shorter/less heavy trail braking as the longer you trail brake, the more the brakes heat up and possibly lock up. For each track, you need to find the limit how much to brake and how much trail braking you can do without rear lock.
I'm way more into offroad racing than track racing, I'm currently headachey and tired and at the start of this video this sounded like something I really didn't want to do, but damn it you made a really good case. I think I have to try this.
This is eye opening and one of your best videos. Thanks for putting this together.
Just wanted to say that I love the livery with the dimensions on the white car you used to show the brake balance. I work in modeling and drafting for an aerospace company, so it gave me a chuckle. Great video. I've never adjusted balance from corner to corner, only to get it good enough to be stable in all corners. I've hit a plateau lately so maybe this will help me find some time.
Thank you for the excellent explanation. I ignorantly only adjusted brake bias to compensate for the engine placement and left it there and adjusted to how the car felt.
In the new gran turismo break bias makes a huge difference throughout a race as well on tire wear which can drastically help
These videos are epic, you deserve more subs, like way more!
Looks like I now have a new skill to try and add to my repertoire. Cheers great vid said enough without waffling on to much.
Thank you Danny, I’d only ever tweaked BB at initial setup and hadn’t thought to adjust on track. Really useful video!
i found this info really useful. it's not a secret very fast racers always use a setup. i want to be faster but did not want to blindly follow somebody's setup without knowing what it is and how it works (what it does to your car). With setups it's too much to take in, too many options to adjust. Brake bias was always nb1 mystery for me, as I heard a lot people use it, it's used more than other adjustments. Now I understand what it is, how to use it and how crucial it is to improve lap times/it also makes easier to manage the car. Thank you
Holy crap finally, I understand one bit of sim racing. I have a lot more to go, so subscribed. Thanks for the information. Can’t wait to see more
I'm so glad it's helpful - there's way more to come, just gotta wait for it to cook. Thanks for the sub!
More videos like this please. I like your style and presentation methods, very easy to follow along. And thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the feedback, really appreciated. There's more to come but if you want to get ahead yourself the Skip Barber book is an absolute goldmine of knowledge: amzn.to/339MjX1
Great suggestion, I've been lazy not doing it. Think about it for over a year. This video serves well as a bit of motivation to get it setup. Thanks mate
Once you've got it nailed you will definitely feel safer and more consistent. Whenever I get lazy with it I always end up getting into trouble, so give it the attention it needs and you'll get better results for sure
Do you know if it's possible to change the magnitude of a change per click in iRacing?
I have a rotary encoder but it changes the bias in 0.1% increments which means I'm turning it two full rotations to go from 52% to 54%...
I don't think there is - sometimes the bias increments are specific to each car, I saw somewhere that someone has to click an obscene number of times to change the bias to one end of the reasonable operating window to the other. Stick a suggestion in the iRacing complaints/feature suggestions forum, I would.
yeah same here by the time you chage it to 1 full degree your like 3 corners later
In the meantime you could look for a rotary encoder with fewer steps per rotation. I'm no expert but I do know they make different varieties of that feature.
Ryan Smith It’s easier to implement this into the game instead of buying a 500$ wheel for the rotaties lol
@@ryansmith1312 Or would ya want more steps / rotation = a faster rate to click through the 0.1% increments? :O
Why did I not think of this, I've just seen it and decided I'll listen to it while doing a fixed gt3 race at Charlotte in the Mercedes, tweaked it for the first 5 min or so just trying to find the point, ended up going 1.5s quicker during the race and moving up 5 positions, will sub to you. Cheers
So on gt7. The bias is displayed as front is negative and rear is positive. How is that diff then you are explaining. Is it the same just worded different
If brake bias is very helpful in the first half of the corner, having different TC setting during the lap is very useful in the second half. It works very well in Monza.
I hate fiddling about with buttons while racing - I just want to get on with it - but this explains perfectly why you should do it and how the faster guys always seem to nail every corner. Thanks - just subbed, will be checking out your other content too.
Cheers man, appreciate the comment. You can drive without tinkering but you'll have to accept a potential handicap to those who do, particularly on tracks where the wide range of braking zones and particularly in classes where ABS is not present. No big deal though - It's there when you're hungry, so to speak.
There´s one thing I don´t quite understand. As you come up to the ascari chicane at 5:38 , you mention you want tick the bbal down a little bit because you want some extra turn in, but earlier in the video you said you'll want a little higher bbal for trail braiking into a turn. That sounds contradictory, isn't trail braking what you want when turning in? As in how does decreasing bbal improve turn-in when it makes the car more unstable under braking?
Because if the bias is too far forward, you'll essentially be getting understeer and won't be turning in with the proper slip angle. All he's saying is lowering it can increase turn in when needed, obviously since there's varying levels of bias required for each turn, you'll have to turn it down at some point.
@@extremeencounter7458 I’m sorry but I still don’t really understand… Is front bbal good for braking while turning? Or rear bbal? From what I understood from the video, if you’ll do hard braking in a straight line you’ll want the bias to be more rearward, so how does that then also improve turn-in? Maybe I’m stupid but I just don’t understand 😅
@@jopvandam6820 Think about, it you just raised the bias so that you can trail brake a longer corner, you’ll have to lower it so you can A) brake harder on the next turn and B) keep you from under steering on a sharper turn. Remember how the rear steps out when you lower the bias? The opposite happens when you raise it, meaning the front of the car will hug the ground, but too much will make it under steer. Lowering it makes it easier to allow the rear end to rotate out, but too much rear bias and it slides out. But if you just leave it high, the car will understeer, meaning you can’t turn in on a tighter corner
Than you for your videos. I just found your channel today; after this and your trail braking vid, I can't wait to get back on track. Your presentation, break down, and level of detail are exactly what I needed to find that 'next couple seconds'. Suddenly explained are all those moments of - how come that car pulls away from me mid corner and why am I spinning out if I push? I highly recommend subscribing and watching your channel, to anyone else learning to go faster. I've heard of trail braking for years, and now I understand it.
Thanks man, I really appreciate you taking a moment to report back after watching - it's folks such as yourself that I want to reach, I hope it translates to real gains in your sim and gets you out of the rut!
Interesting. Never bothered doing it, perhaps I ought to start.
Tysm honestly no other video on BB explained how to use it in practice as well as you did
Thanks man, it's great to hear people taking something from it - appreciate you giving feedback!
Thanks for the tips! Looks like I need to finally sort out that button box rather than having to cycle through menus to get to the brake bias!
Deffo worth having on hand. I did an 80 minute race last night and having the ability to nudge the bias forward to counteract the twitchiness without even thinking about it was just one of the many things that helped win it.
Excellent explanation and well done . Know it’s all clear to me and I will certainly try to learn to drive using BB👍
So generally speaking, you lower the brake bias through slower tighter turns and raise it for faster turns?
i have turned my bias down from 58% to 57%, sometimes 56% Not much but my trail breaking is becoming far more effective. (Im still learning how to trail break) I drive in Raceroom, with the DTM 2020 BMW, Usually at Bathurst. and i have reduced my average lap times by nearly 1 second. Thanks for this great vid
That's awesome! Thanks so much for coming back to report
Outstanding I’ve been trying to understand this for a while now
The best way to dial in the brake bias is simplier then that brake and ajust until the front tires stop blocking then u have it pretty much balanced
Thanks! Great video! I struggeled alot with the Porsche in Asetto Corsa Competizione, especially on trial braking corners.
Thanks man - I mean the Porsche is easily the most difficult car to control in the first half of the corner - I prefer the Aston as you can really attack the corners under trail braking. With the Porsche I'm usually losing it.
I haven't tried it yet, but would you agree with my thinking that brake bias should be moved forward for downhill braking, like for the Forrest Elbow in Bathurst and to the rear for uphill braking like into the Cutting, or into turn 6 (Corvette bridge) at Road America?
Yep, that's correct. Move it backwards for uphill and forwards for downhill. This can vary depending on track conditions, track camber, etc.
Danny very well done vid, I'm new to racing and did not have a very good understanding on this subject your vid helped me a lot. Thanks!
Thanks man, you're exactly the kind of person I aim to help, welcome and feel free to ask anything you like - check my other instructional videos too, a new one is added every so often
Thanks Danny, never actually thought of it like that. This is why iLMS this week at Sebring is going so bad. Keep locking up into the chicane, and losing the back elsewhere. Any comments on changing with fuel load?
Sebring is a fantastic example of brake bias being key to setting great race pace - if I don't tweak the bias forward a bit I find the last turn REALLY dicey, and if I don't tweak it back a bit for the deep braking zone into the hairpin I often lock up. It only takes one screw-up to start a whole chain reaction of mistakes so reducing them is always worthwhile. Fuel load burn off affects different cars in different ways - fuel burnoff and tyre wear affect the car and sometimes I find the car is twitchier the lighter it gets, I more often than not offset the bias forward one or two steps when that starts to be the case.
Another great video Danny, am just on the cusp of getting started with it. I have found it is also useful to compensate for tyre wear and reducing fuel weight. Cheers :)
The brake bias changes in Assetto Corsa are in 0.2% increments (I think). I have it bound to a rotary encoder on my Ferrari wheel and for some changes of around 2% your thumb is just a blur. They need to make the incremental change editable on a car by car basis.
Just another challenge of sim racing. Maybe there's a standalone bias adjuster available, like the real thing? I'd actually be interested in that.....
So Ive never played with it having only done fixed series and not realising I could use bb. Currently doing Ferrari fixed so not a lot of time for fiddling especially with the smaller tracks. Did some testing at La Guna Seca yesterday and dialled down the bias which was better stopping power and felt settled all the way around. I didn't fiddle once I was driving and found half a second instantly.
Awesome man, great to hear, you're exactly the kind of person I want to reach - so good to know you've found such a big chunk of time with such a simple tweak, and in a fixed series too.
Watched your vid on slip angle and noticed an improvement the other day 🤘🤘
Cheers man, that's great to hear. You're the reason I go to the effort to put these out.
Great video! I'll finally make use of some more of those button on my wheel!
Your explanations are easy to understand, i subscribed, and thanks.
Cheers man, I appreciate the feedback. The formula should never change.
Brake bias is important enough for not just Renault to do auto bias control, but also McLaren putting a 2nd brake pedal in their 1998 F1 cars linked to the rear brakes for the drivers to manually control bias on the fly.
The second brake pedal was linked to either the inside or outside wheel (depending on the track) to assist with turn in, not bias.
It only controlled one rear brake per race for additional rotation
I haven't really adjusted my brake bias on the go but I thought it was the opposite. For big braking zones like at the end of the Monza straight needs lots of front bias because all the weight is on the front tyres like hard braking on a bicycle in a straight line. And to trail-brake we'd need to reduce the power from the fronts to get it to turn in more effectively. I'm surprised how close to 50 50 the bias are too. Thanks
The 'default' amount of brake bias differs from car to car based on many factors, including weight distribution and the actual leverage/effectiveness of brakes at each axle. So in a front engined car the bias will be further forward than a rear engined car where most of the weight is at the back. That's the tricky thing about brake bias, it's not one size fits all, which is where the practical observations come from that you can only get by practicing and seeing the difference it makes.
Try it for yourself and you'll find yourself experiencing less lockups and spins, at least in cars without ABS the difference is certainly felt. If learning to think about bias means you avoid just one front lockup into Monza T1, it'll have been worth it, and that's often the difference between keeping a place and losing it.
@@dannyleeracing Cool I'll get testing. Thanks for the reply
@@timbuktu6730 Hopefully it makes a difference dude, in iRacing at least it is sometimes a lifesaver, on some tracks I find happiness with one settings and on others I can squeeze more out if I do tweak it as I go. Over a race distance sometimes the car gets nervous on older tires and I move brake bias forward slightly to manage the back end.
I always tought why would the brake bias make me faster maybe like 0.1 or 0.2 but it makes me 1-2 secs faster even when trying the first lap w using brake bias! Just try and figure out where the limits are for brake bias
Awesome mate, that's such a big gain - thanks for coming back and letting me know, satisfying to know that it's helping.
@@dannyleeracing yeaaa! First I tought maybe I just became quicker so I tried adjusting the brake bias only 1x a lap or just dont adjust it and I drove 1-2 seconds slower and I wasnt consistent at all!
Brake bias is not something you should use as a crutch. use it as an additional tool once you feel like you are close to perfecting your cornering. nice video. good info
Thanks a lot for this video. I'm playing Assetto Corsa, and even though I know I should adjust my brake bias, I've been scared of touching it just in case I make a mistake
Great content mate. Probably the best break bias vid I move come across keep up the good work and I’m subscribed for more👍🏻
Cheers man, I hope it helps demystify things and if it just makes one single corner more bearable then you've just got yourself an advantage on the rest of the field.
@@dannyleeracing you got a shout out from Matt malone. They were talking about slip angle in his chat and mentioned yr vid
Very nice explain,butt tell me something,brake bias make sense when we use ABS?or this settings are for non ABS system????
Do ABS settings affect how you should set your brake bias? Is this most effective with a car that does not have ABS?
I cannot seem to ever remember how to adjust BB in IRacing and ACC but use it often in GT Sport.
so, basically slightly to the front when there is an opportunity for trail braking and slightly to the rear when it's too tight to trail brake, yes?
Yes, think about it this way: If you're gonna have to trail brake, put it at the front. If there's no need to trailbrake, (like if all the braking happens before the turn), put it at the rear.
Really appreciate the way you explain. Thank you very much and keep it up mate 👍
That is one aspect im imressed by watching F1 drivers. Not only do they change brake bias many times per lap but also entry.diff / exit.diff and sometimes the engine brake values.
Fascinating.
Excellent video. I really struggle with consistent breaking and this really has me thinking and will give it a go. Cheers
Thanks for leaving nice feedback. It helps me out majorly when I give Brake Bias some effort. I've got a race coming up at Barcelona and I can hit a much more comfortable and consistent stint time when I tweak for troublesome sectors on the track.
@@dannyleeracing your welcome Danny, you UA-cam simmers are an amazing resource. My biggest weakness is breaking and more importantly getting the turn in to slow tight corners like turn one at Monza. This is where I think changing the bias and inducing a little oversteer will help.?
@@splitenz1770 Yes it will - in any corner where I feel like the car has understeer it calls for a shift of brake balance to the rear. Try decreasing bias little by little for corners like Monza T1 until it feels like it has the turn-in you need, then you know that Turn 1 is best taken with 'x' amount of brake bias and you have loads of time on the main straight to set the bias, then loads of time after T1 to put it back to normal for the rest of the course. If the car has understeer everywhere then you're looking at a different problem.
I get it using GTE cars without ABS but how does driving a GT3 with ABS affect what’s taught in this video? Are stopping distances still reduced by moving it rewards if ABS is on and stops lock-up of the fronts anyway?
I never really understand the brake bias thing (just didn't want to read about it :P) but this is eye opening and great to understand.
Thanks :)
That livery is so, so good!
Thanks man, I spent so long on the white side with all the mock technical measurements that when it came to the blue side I just went "Screw it" and bucket-filled it. Beautiful car, that was - see it in action here: ua-cam.com/video/74daUTQWyw8/v-deo.html
@@dannyleeracing What a battle, very nice job!
Doesn't matter, it looks amazing from the right too :D
It just hit me, is the blue colour resembling the old school blueprints?
@@ZvonECR0 You absolute genius, I never ever thought of that. That would have been an absolutely legendary design combined with the technical measurements on the white.
@@dannyleeracing hahahah glad you like it :D
I might make a similar one for myself one day, since I'm about to finish my master's in mechanical engineering soon, it would fit very nicely :)
@@ZvonECR0 Do it, feel free to take inspiration or flat out reproduce, I just wanna see it when you've done it!
I discovered that brake bias is very important at monza and not only at monza. I was constantly 1:50:2 and after using BB i was able to get a 1:48:9
Awesome
Now I just need a wheel with enough buttons on it 😂
Thanks for making such a clear and spot on guide
Cheers man, hope it helps you - there are so many tracks (though not all) where bias tweaking makes all the difference
Quick suggestion. Instead of writing % for corners, have a baseline number and save the delta +1% t1, -1.5% t2. This might be less confusing to users who don’t realize or skip the info about different cars have different baseline balance.
When changing cars you just need to update the baseline number and likely the deltas should be spot on.
What if you can only change brake bias *before* a race? What should I do?
Think about the track and car combination, tire wear and your skill and figure out the best choice. A FWD car might be better off having brake bias a bit to the rear to allow the front tires to wear less, as they don't have to brake as much, when they already need to accelerate, too.
this is great, cant wait to experiment with this
I thought hard braking means more front brake bias and trail brake means more bias towards rear. But it is opposite?
I take it as, hard braking usually happens on a straight, from a high speed to a quite low speed. you'd want to have more braking efficiency but since it's a straight you can trade some stability for it. so you decrease brake bias and make rear brakes engage more than usual. you gain lap time
in trail braking into a longer corner you don't brake as hard (= don't need as much braking efficiency), but stability is important. so you increase brake bias, let your rear wheels rotate more freely and thus get more stability at the cost of brakes not stopping you fast as they could. you gain consistency. and maybe lap time too if that increased stability lets you trail-brake more precise
This is it - it's all about stability and consistency. If you move bias too far forwards in a deep straight line braking zone you are more likely to have a lock-up which loses you more time than any minor gain you could have had. Whereas if you have bias too far back into a corner you increase the risk of a spin and losing all that time and more in one fell swoop. Over race distance, everything you can do to rub out potential mistakes is what makes the difference.
I would like to add that just to get people into considering brake-bias at all they should at least do some practice sessions where the fiddle with the pre-set brake bias.
It's hard to overstate how much even just that can transform your experience on track.
I say that who only somewhat recently started to use brake-bias as well.
Great video! I loved how it was explained
this work great for me and should be explain with trail braking together after this i gain a full second and the best didnt spin in brooklands
Awesome mate, glad to hear it. I did a run of Ferrari Fixed GT3 in iRacing recently and at default bias I was having real trouble. After shifting it more to my liking it was much better, though the fixed setups still drive like sheds to me.
Thank you so much for this great video. Cant wait for more of this kind of video.
Man your videos are fucking awesome! I don’t consider myself a racing expert by any means. I’m a decent amateur at best. But the way you explain these little things that help in such a big way is great. Keep up the great shit brother
Great video, man deserves more subscribers
Thanks man, hope it makes you find extra speed - I needed your hype when we were at 250 subs.
Should't it be the opposite? LESS front BB in trail braking corners to release some of the front grip, and more front BB during straight line braking?
There's so many variables it's hard to cut cleanly - too much front brake bias increases stopping distances, too much rear brake bias causes instability. There's a lot of ways to reach the right result, but the best one is to see what works in practice. If you understeer, decrease the % until balance feels perfect. If you oversteer, increase % until balance feels perfect. If you lock the front or rear during hard straight line braking, take bias away from the end that's locking until the balance feels perfect.
The important thing is to be willing to try!
I have no buttons left on my steeringwheel to assing break bias. :(
Hey Danny. I find your driving tips videos super helpfull. Slipangle and trialbraking as well. Have you thought about putting them together in a playlist on you channel? greetings
ok, which kind of corners needs an increase of the brake bias?
which kind of corners needs a decrease of the brake bias?
and which kind of corners needs a neutral brake bias?
Have a look at my updated brake bias guide! I do believe I go into that, worth a watch anyway! ua-cam.com/video/vME8LLbXRxs/v-deo.html
Could you please comment on the effect of weight transfer? On a hard braking zone the car pitches front and is more loaded than the rear so there's more grip potential there. It seems counter intuitive to be at 49% bias at T1 in Monza given this effect... also I understand the stability factor for trail braking but you will be limiting your tuning potential while trail braking with a front bias because the tyres are asked to do two thing at the same time so thats where the rear wheels can help with a bit of extra trail braking. Just wanna hear you thoughts on that, great video :)
Turning*
The key thing here is that the brake bias values we're talking about here are in a really tight window, like 1%-2% variance. Also don't pay too much attention to the values on screen as they differ from car to car, sim to sim. The Ferrari 488 is mid-engined so will have more weight balance toward the rear tyres than a front-engined BMW M8, for example, and this is reflected in the 'operating window' of brake bias that you find.
Weight transfer is absolutely hand-in-hand with brake bias. If you brake in a straight line you can afford to use more braking on the rear wheels because you are not unloading either side of the rear axle in the braking zone and won't risk locking a rear and spinning out. Whereas if you are braking AND turning then you want to shift the balance towards the front to avoid spinning out. When you have a well-practiced lap and you've tweaked the brake bias per corner (if necessary) to be able to hit every corner in every lap reliably and without nerves, that's what will give you better results over race distance. If you're in any way interested in all of this then the Skip Barber book is absolutely the thing for you: amzn.to/33Jzulv
Is there anyway in Iracing to increase the increment steps of the brake bias, for example in steps of 1% and not having to scroll 5 seconds to change it?
Not that I know of, unfortunately
i have a question. Is brake bias relative to the shape and wheelbase of the car ? Because the weigh transfers during braking and some cars are better balanced than others in terms of weight distribution
What do you reckon the time gain is on a hot lap?
I set my Ferrari at Fuji to 54% all the time because I’m only just starting to learn it
I found it to be more stable so I can constantly improve, but everyone I look at uses 52% but for me that’s so hard to control on Sector 3
I can do consistent times but I have a g920 so I rely heavily on getting my braking spot on as I cannot catch the slides as easily
Whenever it makes you lose even a little piece of focus, it's no longer worth it. The sensibility with the brake pedal on the braking zone makes all the difference, as a bit of mistake in that regard could let you in trouble (with tires temp) or see the braking efficiency going out
Like anything new, when you initially introduce it, it's tricky, but soon it's second nature and is a benefit to know. I definitely needed it in some endurance races recently as the car got twitchier and twitchier as the race drew on and clicking it forward just a little brought all the confidence and stability back.
@@dannyleeracing Yeah, endurance is one of the best targets to apply this method, indeed, and I agree that there are more benefits than disadvantages for using it on this referred racing mode, while it is more important maintaining the pace stable than being extremely fast in a few laps.
Nonetheless, as I've mentioned before, the 100% focus spike in the brake pedal modulation is quicker for sprint races and hot laps, unless you're gonna change the brake balance only one or twice during the lap.
So more bias allows for more rotation?
Moving bias more towards the front wheels makes it less likely that you will spin when braking and turning, but it also increases the chance of locking the front brakes (in cars without ABS) which carries its own risk. Finding the perfect amount of bias to suit your style of corner entry can make it way easier to nail it every single time. If a corner feels unsafe when braking and turning in, put bias forward until it does. Might take many laps to figure out what bias works best for you and how many times it should be changed (if at all), but if you do it and others don't, you'll have the advantage.
Danny , on my G29 my brake bias , TCS knob seems to lag . Do you happen to have a solution to this ?
Are you using the big red rotary dial? If so, this is a commonly misunderstood dial - you would expect 3 clicks to mean 3 clicks, but if you do it too fast it only registers 1 click. Apparently, this is by design so that you can just bash the rotary dial 3 times however hard you like and it'll register 3 clicks. Between you and me, that design is silly!....
@@dannyleeracing oh wow really , yeah that’s odd they did that , but then again Logitech doesn’t tell you to plug the wheel into GHUB when you get it either lol. Thanks for the input.
Hello Dany, great video, i have a problem wih one corner on SPA, just after No Name, you have to trail brake down hill to the left, and back of my Boatley is verry happy there and i have problems taming it... would adjusting BB help? which way?
Hey dude, sounds like you're describing pouhon. Love that corner, but it usually requires brake bias to be tweaked forward (increased) so that when trailbraking into the corner the rears are under less braking force and less likely to slip out from underneath you.
@@dannyleeracing thanks Danny, will try
sound advice, I figured it for myself but nice to hear it from another driver
how does it work with ABS?!? how do you understand when the car is blocking front?!?
Normally (depending on the car) ABS activity is signified with a dashboard LED indicating that it's kicking in - It's more difficult to tell which wheels are locking up with ABS as it's specifically designed to counteract it, but if you disable ABS and work on the bias until it seems happy, then reintroduce ABS, you will have a happier balance and ABS will still be there to rescue you if you make a mistake. In a perfect world ABS should never kick in, but in reality GT3s and such can tempt you into making ABS do the braking for you and just braking without precision.
@@dannyleeracing The colors of the LED shows you if it's the front or the rear that is blocking up. And sometimes the LED goes up if it's the front and down if it's the rear.
can you do the same with TC?
so brake bias up to avoid spin, and low to avoid lock front wheels, right
Also, high for understeer, low for oversteer.
High for more wear on the front tires, low for more wear on the rear tires.
I had a long race at Monza in a front wheel drive Audi, and by not setting the brake bias to the back, my front tires were dead before the end of the race and I lost positions. It makes a huge difference.
Thanks so much for the videos Danny! They are really helping me lowering my times, specially this video. Just one question, it may sound a bit stupid, but anyways…do this guidelines (more front brake bias for trail braking, more rear brake bias for long straights braking) work the same for rear wheel drive cars as for front wheel drive cars? Thanks again Danny!
Yes, generally speaking the same rules still apply but it's best to take the inspiration gained from this video to do some trial and error and see what works for you - if you need the car to rotate more under braking, you reduce brake bias, and vice versa - front wheel drive race cars tend to be loose at the rear because it helps them turn when the front wheels are simultaneously pulling the nose of the car, that's why you see front wheel drive racing hatchbacks sometimes doing a tripod around corners on track! They're built to do it.
Great vid!
Great video, added to my list of ones to refer to as a bible! Quick critique if I may. The blue background'ed description of what the brake bias % means (at 7:54), could that be moved closer to the start of the video? Thanks for posting this.
So + brake bias is putting to the front wheels and vice-versa? Sorry I'm new to sim racing
That's right - the higher the %, the more braking force is going to the front. More front brake bias = stable/understeer when trailbraking
@@dannyleeracing oh okay cool, thanks for that. I'm learning to trail brake right now.
Thanks for all the info. Good video.
What about as the car loses fuel and the balance changes. Do your brake bias percentages change even more for each corner, or are they different percentages all together?
I'd guess you keep adding constant offset the less fuel you have. whether you make it less or more, and by how much, depends on where the fuel tank is located
if it's in the back, move the bias more to the front since the back becomes lighter and easier to lock. i.e. if with a full tank you change your bias from 50 to 52 depending on the corner, then with an empty tank your bias could change between 51 and 53, for example
and if we're talking about long stints you should probably take in account your tire wear too and be more gentle (regarding brake bias) with whatever end has more wear...
When this happens and I feel like the car is twitchier than usual I'll normally offset the overall bias in whichever direction it needs. So let's say I run a 60 minute race at Monza, towards the end it's likely to feel a bit looser or twitcher, so instead of 51%>52%>54 I'll add an offset of 1% front brake bias and use 52%>53%>55% (just as an example). If I don't do this, the car just feels more and more dangerous as the slides and wobbles only add to the problems.
Well done, thank you!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
What wheel do you use and what controls do you map for the BB adjustment?
I use a Mclaren V2 wheel nowadays and I have my two thumb buttons above the handle grips set to BB up and BB down, they're the easiest buttons to reach whilst keeping both hands on the wheel
Well done Danny.