I tried your idea to clamp the clutch lever and it worked like a charm. It was jumping into gear even when the clutch lever was pulled in but after clamping it for 24 hours it worked great. This was on a 1973 Yamaha LT3 100. Thanks for the tip.
8:58 if you're stopped at the lights in gear with the clutch pulled in and the engine is running, all the plates are free. If any one friction plate is stuck to the steel this will lock the basket to the drum and the engine will stall (unless all the teeth are missing from the friction plate).
Watched your video after I realized I had a stuck clutch on my 1970 Honda SL 100. Put a clamp on the clutch level and left it overnight. I kicked the motor over a couple of times the next day and after the third try it broke loose and now works fine. After seven years your advise is still applicable. Many Thanks!!!!
Man what a lifesaver. You talk slow in the video and take your time getting to the point. But the point is worth the wait. Had a bike that sat for 14 years. Clutch was solidly stuck. I'd read of putting ATF fluid in and getting them unstuck. Was planning on that, and assumed I'd have to disassemble the clutch. Topped up the oil, cranked the kickstart a dozen times to circulate the oil. Clamped the clutch lever. 36 hours later, it was releasing though not quite freely. Pumped the kick start a dozen more. 24 hours later, she was free as it should be. Now I can clean the carbs and get this Honda 750 Four back on the road.
Iv just got a zx7r that slips under wide open throttle, it had a new clutch kit and spring kit about 5k mile ago but its been off the road for 5 years stored nicely it runs fine and will go up and down the gearbox but slips when you put it under throttle load, sound like friction plates?
Rate this advice 100%. My 1938 matchless g80 was sitting with no oil in the primary case for a year. Clamped the clutch lever filled the primary with oil and left it over night. Within 10 kicks it broke free.
You saved me a BUNCH of time and trouble boss!! I had tried everything I could think of to break the frictions and steels loose in the seized clutch on my 90 Shadow VT 1100c. Nothing worked and I had grabbed my Clymer's out in advance of opening everything up. Never occurred to me that the steady pressure applied over a period of time would do the trick. Just happened upon your video by chance and it worked like a charm (and I am running a juice clutch). Amazing! Thanks again for staying up late to shoot this. I owe you one.
You sir, are a genius. Worked like a charm. It was a half a quart low, and sat for 2 months. It took 1 hour. 1964 Honda Dream 305 still running. Thank you!!!
Thanks so much for taking the trouble to post this! My 400/4 and TL125's clutches were well and truly stuck - you've saved me a lot of time, trouble and oil as this trick freed them both within a couple of days
This trick has just worked for me too! Left clutch lever pulled back to the grips with a couple of bicycle inner tube elastic bands wrapped round for 48 hrs, clutch was still seized when I tried to kick it over in gear with back wheel on ground. Started engine in 1st gear and ran on centre stand with wheel spinning at about 3000 engine RPM and jabbed the back brake, hey presto! The back stopped and the engine continued spinning - clutch now works perfectly. Great trick!
DUDE!!!! My son broke the clutch cable on my wolf classic 150, which is basically a Honda CB 150 . Replaces the cable. The clutch wouldn’t work . Was stuck in gear. 8 months later I’m about to fork out cash to fix this and I see your Video.. we up and running!!! Soooo stoked . 100,000,000 thank you.
Thank you sir. I did know that if I was overwintering my bike (Ducati 750SS) I should have put on a bungee cord on the clutch to pull it, but I didn't bother and left it sitting 10 years (Kids) and now I have this problem. Good to know there is a potentially easy fix to start with. Will pull the sparkplugs and push around in gear for a while to circulate the oil to see if this works. Thanks for the helpful video.
Just saw this yesterday, clamped the clutch lever in on my Triumph Thunderbird, left it overnight and 'it worked' clutch operating fine now, many thanks for this information 🙂
Thank you sir! Tried your method and my bike after sitting 8 years had a stuck clutch....only took overnight with the clutch lever clamped in, the next morning rocking it back and forth I heard a pop and knew I fixed it....put 20 miles on it today and it's working great! Thank you!
I definitely appreciate the advice. I'll give you some advice even though you didn't ask. You have a wonderful presentation of facts to get the clutch free, however stay within at least 3 minutes and don't make a 10-minute video out of it. Again thanks for the advice you seem like a clever guy
Thanks so much for this video. My Kawasaki 1600 Nomad sat for two years due to illness. I am ready to ride again. and couldn’t figure out what happened. I would put in gear and it lurched forward. New oil and a clamp on the clutch lever for two days. Ran it twice till warm and then tried the clutch. I ran it down my driveway and it felt like it use to and worked great. Thanks for the heads up.
That’s an excellent idea! I’m dealing with that on a CR250 we just rebuilt, and are having this problem. I’ll let you know the results. Thanks for a clever, elegant idea!
Thank you for the vid. Fixed my exact problem on my 81 kz1000. I was about to crack into the clutch but the vice on the clutch lever fixed in in a matter of 15min. 👍
Thanks for the great tip. 66 Triumph Bonneville clutch plates were stuck together tight. Talked to a few very experienced motorcycle mechanics and they all said I`d have to pull the primary cover, a lot of work. Your video solved my problem in 3 days.
I have not rode my bike for 4 weeks at first I tipped it over and I assume I flooded it? Whatever it was I couldn't get it to start. After letting it sit and just charging the battery and waiting two weeks for a little bit warmer weather it finally started. I WAS SO EXCITED. Finally I could ride right? NOPE the clutch was stuck but I had no idea. I was driving myself mad playing around with the carb, air filter, spark plug, and battery. The bike would start up fine but then it would lurch forward and die when put into gear even with the clutch pressed all the way in. It was such a tease the weather was so nice I couldn't enjoy it. Literally losing sleep because it is a brand new bike and I couldn't use it. I was thinking worst case scenarios as far as ways to fix it. Then I tried your trick and it worked like a charm. Not only did you showing what to do but explaining the HOW and WHY with your spare parts was also key. I left my vice grips on for maybe 30 seconds and I could literally hear the springs in the clutch releasing like one of those door stoppers. Right away I knew that was it. I didn't want to get ahead of myself so I just let it sit over night. Today after a whole fucking month I rode my bike again. I can't thank you enough. All from a simple video you helped some random stranger make their life a little better :)
Vmax hasn't ran for 5 years. Warmed engine up, changed oil, warmed up again, pulled in the clutch and put in gear - it lurched forward and died.. Several times. Clamps on clutch. 24hrs later, warmed it up and tried it again.. Works fine! Thank you! Great tip! 🙂
+Brotherd Mike thanks for the positive feedback. One of my earlier bikes, many years ago, was a TS... It was a 1978 or 79 and 125cc if I recall correctly. No powerband but still stayed beside my buddy on his XR 100. Heck, many times he couldn't keep up which would irritate him because his bike was brand new. I still love the old air cooled two stroke and presently ride a 1983 Suzuki PE 175 for enduro events. Hope your clutch unsticks😀. Cheers
Anthony Holdway, in the end, I couldn't unstick my clutch with the trick in this video. But it was a painless job to drain the gearbox oil, remove the clutch cover/casing and separate the plates manually. My friction plates had dried out and fused to the steel plates.
Brotherd Mike luckily they aren't to expensive to replace. I dumped my oil and checked the plates the oil was really old n dirty. I can separate each plate it just feels like theres wet glue in between them so hopefully a oil change and a short run will clean it up
Just tried this on my 87 can am ase 500 that’s been sitting for years couple good kicks with but in gear and let it sit for half a day and it worked!!!!!!
the problem you addressing is very important, i bought an old bike and i had exactly same issue i started solving by tightening clutch wire, but still bike kicks and shuts off when put in gear with clutch, so i had to leave it for 5 min in neutral then is soften up and while riding bike gear were so hard like you are doing without pressing clutch. so then i opened the clutch box and guess what, the additives you put in oil thinking it will clean the engine ends up jamming the clutch plates, the oil sludge was all over plates and were acting like a glue, i found clutch basket had teeths aswell causing this issue you are having. so i solved this issue and still working fine.
Quick way - front wheel against a wall - start engine put it in gear… drop the clutch! Plates should break free. Alternatively you can ride along in 2nd then apply rear brake whilst clutch is pulled in keep repeating until it frees up the plates
Iv just got a zx7r that's been off the road stored nicely for 5 years so nothings seized the brakes etc but the clutch is slipping under wide open throttle - in 2013 a couple years before it came off the road it had a new clutch and spring kit itl go into gear and pull away fine etc but under wide open throttle as you go up the rev range it slips - could this be a couple of stuck friction plates?
@@s1dew1nd3r4 yeah most likely bud.. either that or lack of oil between the plates from sitting is common too... You can if its not your daily bike.. tie some string/wire around the clutch so its engaged and slowly it allows oil to penetrate between the plates. Can take 1-2 days tho. Or you can try the above mate ride along at low speed say 20-30 brake hard with the rear whilst holding the clutch in repeat a few times the vibration through the clutch helps free up and stuck plates. Only other cause of slipping clutch is wore out friction plates.. and using the wrong oil like semi - fully synthetic which im sure you arent doing that anyways
Thanks for putting this information out there! Im gonna try this on my cagiva mito since always when i put it into gear it likes to stall out even with the clutch lever pulled.
common knowledge to some sometimes is new knowledge to some xD thank you for that. now i finally know why the clutch in my honda does not work anymore.
I have a 72 honda cl100. Bike confused me a bit cause everything I searched to match the bike for its year was a bit off and it took a minute for me to figure out that the bike is actually a spot on depiction of a 71 cl100. Not to big of a deal unless you're looling for exterior parts like side panels like me. I'm having new ones custom made since i dont have them or my headlight. Bike as been sitting for longer than ive been alive. My dad acquired it somewhere in the late late 90s possibly 2000 maybe 2001. He gave it to me when i was about 10 and i was born in 2003. The bike was acquired from my uncle's scrap pile and its been sitting for at least 20 years. I tinkered with it here and there but couldn't afford parts in middle school. I managed to get a set of honda oem points with a condensor and replaced them which made the bike run. I replaced the rear tire in freshman year of highschool and then deflated the tire and parked in the shed. I later got my hands on a fuel tank off a bike that was the same year but its was a cb125. Still fits the frame perfectly but its not original to that bike however I like the emblems better since they have the Honda wing on them and they're actual pot metal. Not plastic or stickers or some dumb shit. I ended up finding the original tank and ordered the mounts for it, i bought front fork seals to rebuild the forks. I got lucky and found a bias ply tire for it which is odd cause bias ply isn't widely available and neither are 2.50x18 size tires in general. I ordered a tube but the company sent the wrong one. I was very impatient and found a 3.50×18 and just sent her anyways. Now i just need to fix my clutch since its frozen from sitting so long. She's almost ready. I'm trying to get her going cause im tired of seeing it sit, and my buddy just got his 110 three wheeler goin and we're planning on taking the bikes on some trails around our area and up on the Indian reservation where he's from. Maybe later this afternoon ill have her moving
Good idea ive got a new gn and after a couple of days rest when it starts and goes into first it kicks as the clutch plates separate so ive tied the clutch lever back, to see what happens
My girlfriend’s cousin gave me a 1978 Honda XL100 that had been sitting for over 6 years. I cleaned the gas tank, lines and carburetor. One front fork was bone dry and collapsed all the way. The other still worked a bit but the tranny fluid had gone bad and think. I refurbished them because I couldn’t find affordable parts. Half the spokes were broken. So I got that fixed. Finally after all that I had a chance to take her up and down the street. I let her idle for 10 minutes and she went into first fine enough. Going to second and third was really rough and so I was too scared to put her in fourth. She hated when I kicked her down gears and in first she was so rough. I would stick my foot out to turn and she would stall. Not she is stuck in gear and can’t get her back into neutral. I will try this method. Hope it works.
Hi Daniel, wish you the best with it! I love hearing about those classic Honda being rescued. Curious about how much clutch action you feel on the lever. Sometimes the cable after sitting a while will stretch like mad in the first couple hours put back to use. You probably know already that engine off and not touching the clutch at all, rocking the bike forward and backward should allow to shift through all gears relatively smoothly. If there's considerable resistance doing that, I would continue to do in hope gears start shifting smoother. It may be a case of some buildup of crud around the shift drum and manual shifting a bunch frees up the works. Also, how does the shift lever look too? If it's slipping on the spline, that will make catching gears near impossible 🧘♂️. Just a couple little things to hopefully help 🙏 Cheers
If you have an electric start just try start it in gear let the bike roll as soon as you get it started clutch in stop tilt the bike over to the clutch side while running in gear clutched in. Engage and disengage clutch just enough so it creeps forward it should get unstuck.
Just bought an old bike motor was seized. Used on blaster to free it .clutch is frozen but I cant pull the lever so I'm guessing this technique wont work in my situation. Thanks for sharing this
I just got a zx7r that's been laid up for 5 years but moved about periodically and ran upto temp but not really been ridden anywhere. It had a new clutch kit and spring kit in 2013 so in like the last 5k miles but was then off the road from 2016 - now the bike fires up and runs fine and I can ride it and go up and down the gearbox but when you put it under wide open throttle the clutch is slipping as it goes up the rev range, would that be sticking friction plates? As the clutch itself is still actually fairly new.
Hi, that actually sounds like the engine is overpowering the clutch and the clutch is slipping periodically. Same thing happens on my 1400 intruder and I just ease off throttle a moment and she hooks up again. I believe springs should be replaced, or upgraded to get that plate pressure back👍
I just bought a 1981 yamaha seca 550 for 65 bucks. I cleaned the carbs and it fired up and runs great.. It had been sitting for 3 or more years. So the clutch is stuck and i really just want to ride it lol
What if the bike has a hydraulic system to operate the clutch? Is it still safe to keep the lever pressed in over an extended period of time, or could that cause issues?
No difference in the theory behind the attempt to free up the plates. Only change is now you are relying on hydraulic to maintain pressure, so if a few days or a week pass and you still have pressure when you release the handle (feels same as day one), that's a tight system. You may develop a dead spot that goes away with a few full pumps of the lever, or it could turn completely flat and have to bleed line to get it back. Either way, any loss in pressure (clutch action) indicates a leak... more loss= bigger leak.
Thanks mate.. I have been struggling with my bike clutch and gears and due to lockdown i was not able to find any mechanic support. I too got my gears stick together i think cz i dint used it during the lockdown period. Hope your idea would work fir me. Thanks
My 2009 Honda Rebel 250 had only been sitting for about two weeks when the clutch stuck. I rocked it back and forth while in gear and the clutch released. A week later, it was stuck again. I’m trying your method now and will check it in one and two days. If it doesn’t release, would a complete oil change with Honda brand oil be worth trying? I’ve been riding since 1967 and have never had a clutch stick although most of my bikes are started and ridden every two weeks. I’ll let you know.
Hi Jeffrey, wonderful fun bike the 250 Rebel! Yes, plates stuck as often as your experiencing, for the minimal extra cost I'd just switch out to Honda brand oil -H4 I think they call it- as a process of elimination. If you can, run the engine up to operating temperature before drain and have a close look at that oil. Hoping it's not milky but if so you got water/condensation and possibly the exposed steel plates developed some rust. Fresh Honda oil and a ride probably will sort it 🙏
Would a chain locking up the rear wheel cause a certain gear to stick? My chain failed and locked up the rear wheel and I tried to restart but it’d die (thought it hydrolocked from gas spilling into the air box a few days earlier) well after finding out the chains the issue I replaced that and proceeded to test drive only able to get it to 2nd gear 3rd refused to move and then gas was spilling into the engine causing oil and gas to leak from the air box. I tore it down and nothing looks bad no metal shavings or anything but bikes still refuses to go past 2nd
Hi will riseabove, what year, make and model bike have you got? Really sounds like possible bent shift fork...doesn't take much of a bend to jam up the works. I've had the same thing- chain fail rear wheel lock up- happen to me many years ago. I was on a Yamaha 400 maxim. Nearly killed me, never hurt the bike a bit lol. A compilation of troubles are hard to juggle and sort right. Hope you can get fuel under control🙏. Without actually inspecting all transmission bits, my bet is shift forks and/or the shaft they travel on. Take a very close look at the grooves in the shift drum for any sign of damage. Best regards.
same problem on yz125 2011 twice, doing all this this time, cba to change it again, clutch is like new, bike is bullshi7ing me, should work, i thought about booting it round with the clutch in and heating it up, came looking for this basically, thanks man, if it works i will be back,
7 1\2 mins before... "Hey, just hold the handle down a while and add oil..." I swear this guy is from a sienfeld episode. "Jerry! Yeah, I couldn't keep going out with them... ... They were a slow talker! A slow talker, Jerry!"
Well, tried the clamp trick on a 2000 Vulcan 800. Couldn't get it to roll with clutch lever pulled. Let it sit overnight. Next day, its working like it should. Thanks
I think im on the other side of the problem i thinke my clutch is slipping. Took it apart and cleaned it with w d 40. Got a little bit better. But someone told me to scrape the pads on a cement floor sort sanding it to get the glaze off. Heard of that?
Hi harrygrimley, I've roughed up dirt bike brake shoes to increase performance. Usually do it on my vintage bikes just before race day, use an 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. Clutch is bathed in oil though so any that I get in my shop with slipping trouble, first thing I suspect is springs. A service manual should give you specs on spring length. Tensile strength of each spring is hard to measure. Manual also for friction and steel plate thickness. If plates are worn bad usually that shows up in the cable - cable will seem stretched... and even if you put new one it would be adjusted oddly out more than it should as the clutch pack is not filling intended space. I'm certainly no clutch expert, never tried roughing friction plates either. My thoughts on that... probably would help for a short period. High gloss on friction plates I would think means they slipped a good bit and the intense friction caused overheating, baked them to a gloss. If anything, I'd lay a sheet of 1000... maybe 800 grit on a pane of glass and give plates a quick scuff. My focus is still on the springs though. Also, some makes, models specify only conventional oil, mineral oil, transmission fluid, etc. More to the point, if the transmission fluid spec doesn't call for synthetic oil, putting that in definitely can give you slip. Best regards 🧘♂️
Thank you so much for watching and your comment. I would actually recommend if you can to wait a day or two before you plan to use your scorpa and do the lever then. I've discovered that long term takes the tensile strength from the springs and clutch starts slipping 😑. Cheers
+glen glen keeping the clutch clamped in through an oil change should not hurt anything. All the best with your Honda. I'm actually in the market for something similar.
My actuator arm doesn't engage anything so clamping it would be pointless. Any guesses why? It worked fine u til the cable broke amd we replaced it. Not The bike won't roll in gear with the actuator arm all the way forward (the way its supposed to bE to shift).
Few cable ties on the clutch lever 24hrs, then rode it for about 20mins with ties still attached, bingo, clutch let go, cut the cable ties off, (make sure to carry a blade on the ride to cut the ties mid ride) ride home.normally, all fixed, put the ties back on for a while get some lube in-between them haha, not a single bolt turned for this fix, boom.
cove creek fishing off the hook if the bike has sat untouched for some time It's possible the cable (if cable operated) had taken on water at some point and is now rusted internally. Rust will stop them tight. Need more info please... what kind of bike? And was there any work done then suddenly clutch is acting up? Sometimes something simple as kink or jam in the cable under gas tank can send a person chasing the wrong direction. Cheers.
I'd be inclined to think the highest gear available if you can, like fifth or sixth if you have it. I'm just thinking less strain on the transmission and/or kickstarter. Neutral likely best if only electric start. What kind of bike are you working on?
You need to check oil level and condition. Very likely you should drain the oil, pull a side casing or plug to enable you to physically turn over the engine. With all ignition switch off and spark plug removed, attempt to turn engine by hand. If it is truly stuck (seized), it is likely you are in for a fresh top end, but possible if it stuck from lack of use or at a low rpm, fresh oil and filter and rocking by hand back and forth 'might' get you back running again.
Eventually yes it would. The time needed to relax those plates and let oil saturate between them -a day or two, perhaps even a week -should have little to no affect on spring strength. Just my opinion though 😏, I've never done any official test.
Sorry for such a delay in responding, life got crazy. Did you get your trouble sorted out Clive? It does sound like the clutch isn't letting go. Another possibility is kickstand safety switch but that can be ruled out if they bike will actually move under its own power, then when brought to a stop in gear immediately stalls -that kind of behaviour points directly to clutch.
@@shopyoga yes thanks it was the clutch plates that had gummed together into a solid mass due the gasket inside the clutch case letting coolant mix with the oil and turning it into a gooey mess .all sorted now .im hopefuly going to cut the restrictor out the exhaust this week .its a weird affair where its restricted deep inside the exhaust itself .ive no idea what ill find when i Dremel it open
No difference which gear, neutral is fine too. Important to roll engine over at least once (don't even have to start it) just to get oil on every portion of clutch. Then, with the lever pulled in plates are relaxed and oil can work its way back into the fiber of the fiber plates. I usually go out and spin the engine couple times a day if that's an option just to keep the oil available to top of clutch pack.
2005 Kawa Nomad 1600 had it new since then with 17,000 miles Can’t roll bike when in gear with clutch lever pulled in. Try to start in first clutch pulled in and bike jumps forward two feet. If I start bike in neutral warm up then try to drop it in first it lunges forward 2-3 feet dies. Then it’s ok Bike rides well and no clutch slipping at all. Once the first break it’s good to ride all day but park it fir a few hrs and it locks up again. I have chg all Dot 4 a few times. Used the right oil no additives. I can’t tell what’s wrong and nobody else can either. I try rocking it back and forward in gear with clutch pulled in and it takes 10-15 hard pulls/pushes to break it free then everything is fine?? HELP!!!
The clutch basket has 'fingers' that hold one set of plates... typically the friction plates, and if they become worn or grooved even a little, that can cause those symptoms. That's rare though in that model, happens quite often to two stroke dirt bikes. A change in oil brand, type, viscosity can cause that too. More likely though, is that this has just become the nature of that bike with that mileage. I run a 1988 1400 Suzuki Intruder and have similar scenario. First start, cold start, if I want to leave right away I have to keep choke partly on and aim careful and expect to stall at first stop, hydraulic clutch will not disengage rear wheel until the engine warms at least a little and she's cold-hearted. If I let it sit 4-5 minutes while I put helmet and gloves, clutch is free (maybe the slightest pull at wheel) but no stall no issue. Otherwise, five to seven minutes into the ride sorts it too. Also, cold bike clutch in in gear would take three men to rock clutch free. I have new line, master and slave cylinders, but have yet to open basket.. likely never will until she starts slipping. These massive torque engines require stiff clutch springs, and to pull and lock the lever even overnight may guarantee it will move clutch in in gear, but also guarantee clutch will start slipping soon because spring tensile is gone. Hope this helps.
Mine does stay okay all day after that initial warm up. A slight change of habit may help. After you are parked for a few hours and suspect clutch will be sticking, warm up just a little longer and hold clutch in for five or ten seconds before shift to gear🤔 Sorry about that oil comment as I reread and see proper oil, no additives.
Legend! I was slightly sceptical but on the second day she came free on a bike that has been sitting non started for over ten years. Thanks
I tried your idea to clamp the clutch lever and it worked like a charm. It was jumping into gear even when the clutch lever was pulled in but after clamping it for 24 hours it worked great. This was on a 1973 Yamaha LT3 100. Thanks for the tip.
8:58 if you're stopped at the lights in gear with the clutch pulled in and the engine is running, all the plates are free. If any one friction plate is stuck to the steel this will lock the basket to the drum and the engine will stall (unless all the teeth are missing from the friction plate).
Watched your video after I realized I had a stuck clutch on my 1970 Honda SL 100. Put a clamp on the clutch level and left it overnight. I kicked the motor over a couple of times the next day and after the third try it broke loose and now works fine. After seven years your advise is still applicable. Many Thanks!!!!
Man what a lifesaver. You talk slow in the video and take your time getting to the point. But the point is worth the wait. Had a bike that sat for 14 years. Clutch was solidly stuck. I'd read of putting ATF fluid in and getting them unstuck. Was planning on that, and assumed I'd have to disassemble the clutch.
Topped up the oil, cranked the kickstart a dozen times to circulate the oil. Clamped the clutch lever. 36 hours later, it was releasing though not quite freely. Pumped the kick start a dozen more. 24 hours later, she was free as it should be. Now I can clean the carbs and get this Honda 750 Four back on the road.
Iv just got a zx7r that slips under wide open throttle, it had a new clutch kit and spring kit about 5k mile ago but its been off the road for 5 years stored nicely it runs fine and will go up and down the gearbox but slips when you put it under throttle load, sound like friction plates?
Ignore the negative people, this video was perfect and i cant wait to try it out tomorrow!! Works now!!!!!
Rate this advice 100%. My 1938 matchless g80 was sitting with no oil in the primary case for a year. Clamped the clutch lever filled the primary with oil and left it over night. Within 10 kicks it broke free.
Spit it out, man.
Lmao! Pretty funny! I hear ya!
But give the brother credit. He does a thorough description!
I like to speed up the videos sometimes. It’s pretty handy.
You saved me a BUNCH of time and trouble boss!! I had tried everything I could think of to break the frictions and steels loose in the seized clutch on my 90 Shadow VT 1100c. Nothing worked and I had grabbed my Clymer's out in advance of opening everything up. Never occurred to me that the steady pressure applied over a period of time would do the trick. Just happened upon your video by chance and it worked like a charm (and I am running a juice clutch). Amazing! Thanks again for staying up late to shoot this. I owe you one.
And thank you Lawrence for such kind feedback. Those words are worth a million bucks to me Sir 🙏🧘♂️
@@shopyoga you rightly deserve them boss 👏🤟
You sir, are a genius. Worked like a charm. It was a half a quart low, and sat for 2 months. It took 1 hour. 1964 Honda Dream 305 still running. Thank you!!!
Superb! Glad it worked out for you. I actually have a 1964 Honda 305 Dream I'm restoring.
Thanks so much for taking the trouble to post this! My 400/4 and TL125's clutches were well and truly stuck - you've saved me a lot of time, trouble and oil as this trick freed them both within a couple of days
This trick has just worked for me too! Left clutch lever pulled back to the grips with a couple of bicycle inner tube elastic bands wrapped round for 48 hrs, clutch was still seized when I tried to kick it over in gear with back wheel on ground. Started engine in 1st gear and ran on centre stand with wheel spinning at about 3000 engine RPM and jabbed the back brake, hey presto! The back stopped and the engine continued spinning - clutch now works perfectly. Great trick!
Too long to listen? Check oil level, clamp clutch back to let oil get back in between clutch plates
Thanks I was about to give up too slow
Fantastic tip, worked after half an hour on my 86 XL 125. Genius.
Really useful information. Worked overnight for me. Thank you.
DUDE!!!! My son broke the clutch cable on my wolf classic 150, which is basically a Honda CB 150 . Replaces the cable. The clutch wouldn’t work . Was stuck in gear. 8 months later I’m about to fork out cash to fix this and I see your Video.. we up and running!!! Soooo stoked . 100,000,000 thank you.
Dude, this trick totally worked for me. Thanks for savings me time and effort.
Great suggestion, and personally I find his tone and cadence very relaxing
Brilliant! worked like charm, thanks mate, saved me a lot of grief.
Thank you sir. I did know that if I was overwintering my bike (Ducati 750SS) I should have put on a bungee cord on the clutch to pull it, but I didn't bother and left it sitting 10 years (Kids) and now I have this problem. Good to know there is a potentially easy fix to start with. Will pull the sparkplugs and push around in gear for a while to circulate the oil to see if this works. Thanks for the helpful video.
Just saw this yesterday, clamped the clutch lever in on my Triumph Thunderbird, left it overnight and 'it worked' clutch operating fine now, many thanks for this information 🙂
Thank you sir! Tried your method and my bike after sitting 8 years had a stuck clutch....only took overnight with the clutch lever clamped in, the next morning rocking it back and forth I heard a pop and knew I fixed it....put 20 miles on it today and it's working great! Thank you!
Wonderful glad you found joy🤟🤟and thank you so much for the appreciations!🧘♂️
I definitely appreciate the advice. I'll give you some advice even though you didn't ask. You have a wonderful presentation of facts to get the clutch free, however stay within at least 3 minutes and don't make a 10-minute video out of it. Again thanks for the advice you seem like a clever guy
No shit he was killing me
Thanks so much for this video. My Kawasaki 1600 Nomad sat for two years due to illness. I am ready to ride again. and couldn’t figure out what happened. I would put in gear and it lurched forward. New oil and a clamp on the clutch lever for two days. Ran it twice till warm and then tried the clutch. I ran it down my driveway and it felt like it use to and worked great. Thanks for the heads up.
Good advice man! God bless you! My gs400 clutch unseized in only 24h after sitting for at least 3 years.
Thank you so much for your time and appreciations. Take care and safe Suzuki riding 🤩
Was it seized solid?
@@s1dew1nd3r4 yes sir
Thank you very much. I did a tt600 that was standing quite some time and have this problem.
Appreciate.
That’s an excellent idea! I’m dealing with that on a CR250 we just rebuilt, and are having this problem. I’ll let you know the results.
Thanks for a clever, elegant idea!
I just got done rebuilding a cr250 as well and am trying this tonight too, hopefully it works!
Thank you for the vid. Fixed my exact problem on my 81 kz1000. I was about to crack into the clutch but the vice on the clutch lever fixed in in a matter of 15min. 👍
Thanks for your feedback! Love to hear success!
Thanks for the great tip. 66 Triumph Bonneville clutch plates were stuck together tight. Talked to a few very experienced motorcycle mechanics and they all said I`d have to pull the primary cover, a lot of work. Your video solved my problem in 3 days.
I had a similar sticky clutch situation. Freeplay adjustment (to the tighter side) solved the problem.
worked 100% on my bike thanks dude you're a life saver
Thanks for your feedback 🧘♂️🧘♂️🧘♂️🙂!
I have not rode my bike for 4 weeks at first I tipped it over and I assume I flooded it? Whatever it was I couldn't get it to start. After letting it sit and just charging the battery and waiting two weeks for a little bit warmer weather it finally started. I WAS SO EXCITED. Finally I could ride right? NOPE the clutch was stuck but I had no idea. I was driving myself mad playing around with the carb, air filter, spark plug, and battery. The bike would start up fine but then it would lurch forward and die when put into gear even with the clutch pressed all the way in. It was such a tease the weather was so nice I couldn't enjoy it. Literally losing sleep because it is a brand new bike and I couldn't use it. I was thinking worst case scenarios as far as ways to fix it. Then I tried your trick and it worked like a charm. Not only did you showing what to do but explaining the HOW and WHY with your spare parts was also key. I left my vice grips on for maybe 30 seconds and I could literally hear the springs in the clutch releasing like one of those door stoppers. Right away I knew that was it. I didn't want to get ahead of myself so I just let it sit over night. Today after a whole fucking month I rode my bike again. I can't thank you enough. All from a simple video you helped some random stranger make their life a little better :)
Thank you for making this video!
Vmax hasn't ran for 5 years. Warmed engine up, changed oil, warmed up again, pulled in the clutch and put in gear - it lurched forward and died.. Several times. Clamps on clutch. 24hrs later, warmed it up and tried it again.. Works fine! Thank you! Great tip! 🙂
The anticipation was killing me. Took awhile to finally say how to break it free. But it was a good video.
Will do this on my 150 tomorrow
Thank you sir!
Good idea! Although I think this might cause the clutch springs to relax being clamped that long keep in mind.
Fantastic advice, trying to unstuck a Suzi TS185 clutch and I think this is the ticket. Cheers
+Brotherd Mike thanks for the positive feedback. One of my earlier bikes, many years ago, was a TS... It was a 1978 or 79 and 125cc if I recall correctly. No powerband but still stayed beside my buddy on his XR 100. Heck, many times he couldn't keep up which would irritate him because his bike was brand new. I still love the old air cooled two stroke and presently ride a 1983 Suzuki PE 175 for enduro events. Hope your clutch unsticks😀. Cheers
Haha i am here because my 74 ts185 (first ever bike, i bought two days ago) has a sticky clutch
Anthony Holdway, in the end, I couldn't unstick my clutch with the trick in this video. But it was a painless job to drain the gearbox oil, remove the clutch cover/casing and separate the plates manually. My friction plates had dried out and fused to the steel plates.
Brotherd Mike luckily they aren't to expensive to replace. I dumped my oil and checked the plates the oil was really old n dirty. I can separate each plate it just feels like theres wet glue in between them so hopefully a oil change and a short run will clean it up
Brilliant! This worked like a charm😀
Exactly what I was looking for. Going to try
Just tried this on my 87 can am ase 500 that’s been sitting for years couple good kicks with but in gear and let it sit for half a day and it worked!!!!!!
Wonderful!!!!! Glad to hear this!
Very helpful, thank you for posting.
the problem you addressing is very important, i bought an old bike and i had exactly same issue i started solving by tightening clutch wire, but still bike kicks and shuts off when put in gear with clutch, so i had to leave it for 5 min in neutral then is soften up and while riding bike gear were so hard like you are doing without pressing clutch.
so then i opened the clutch box and guess what, the additives you put in oil thinking it will clean the engine ends up jamming the clutch plates, the oil sludge was all over plates and were acting like a glue, i found clutch basket had teeths aswell causing this issue you are having. so i solved this issue and still working fine.
omg this worked on a TTR125 thanks so much!!!!
going to give this a try. A cable tie is what I'm using
Bro thx so much just rebuilt an 88 husky and had this broblem exactly thankyou
Quick way - front wheel against a wall - start engine put it in gear… drop the clutch! Plates should break free.
Alternatively you can ride along in 2nd then apply rear brake whilst clutch is pulled in keep repeating until it frees up the plates
Iv just got a zx7r that's been off the road stored nicely for 5 years so nothings seized the brakes etc but the clutch is slipping under wide open throttle - in 2013 a couple years before it came off the road it had a new clutch and spring kit itl go into gear and pull away fine etc but under wide open throttle as you go up the rev range it slips - could this be a couple of stuck friction plates?
@@s1dew1nd3r4 yeah most likely bud.. either that or lack of oil between the plates from sitting is common too...
You can if its not your daily bike.. tie some string/wire around the clutch so its engaged and slowly it allows oil to penetrate between the plates. Can take 1-2 days tho.
Or you can try the above mate ride along at low speed say 20-30 brake hard with the rear whilst holding the clutch in repeat a few times the vibration through the clutch helps free up and stuck plates.
Only other cause of slipping clutch is wore out friction plates.. and using the wrong oil like semi - fully synthetic which im sure you arent doing that anyways
Thanks for putting this information out there! Im gonna try this on my cagiva mito since always when i put it into gear it likes to stall out even with the clutch lever pulled.
it has already freed up significantly, the engine doesnt turn over anymore when i push it with a gear in. Thanks!!
Fantastic 🤩... thanks for your feedback, Krisu!
Although it took almost 8 min. to get to the solution, the "pre" solution was interesting and well done. We'll try it and see if it works for me.
common knowledge to some sometimes is new knowledge to some xD
thank you for that. now i finally know why the clutch in my honda does not work anymore.
I have a 72 honda cl100. Bike confused me a bit cause everything I searched to match the bike for its year was a bit off and it took a minute for me to figure out that the bike is actually a spot on depiction of a 71 cl100. Not to big of a deal unless you're looling for exterior parts like side panels like me. I'm having new ones custom made since i dont have them or my headlight. Bike as been sitting for longer than ive been alive. My dad acquired it somewhere in the late late 90s possibly 2000 maybe 2001. He gave it to me when i was about 10 and i was born in 2003. The bike was acquired from my uncle's scrap pile and its been sitting for at least 20 years. I tinkered with it here and there but couldn't afford parts in middle school. I managed to get a set of honda oem points with a condensor and replaced them which made the bike run. I replaced the rear tire in freshman year of highschool and then deflated the tire and parked in the shed. I later got my hands on a fuel tank off a bike that was the same year but its was a cb125. Still fits the frame perfectly but its not original to that bike however I like the emblems better since they have the Honda wing on them and they're actual pot metal. Not plastic or stickers or some dumb shit. I ended up finding the original tank and ordered the mounts for it, i bought front fork seals to rebuild the forks. I got lucky and found a bias ply tire for it which is odd cause bias ply isn't widely available and neither are 2.50x18 size tires in general. I ordered a tube but the company sent the wrong one. I was very impatient and found a 3.50×18 and just sent her anyways. Now i just need to fix my clutch since its frozen from sitting so long. She's almost ready. I'm trying to get her going cause im tired of seeing it sit, and my buddy just got his 110 three wheeler goin and we're planning on taking the bikes on some trails around our area and up on the Indian reservation where he's from. Maybe later this afternoon ill have her moving
Dudeeeee thank you. Superrrr useful
Thank you. I will try this.
Trying this on my kdx 80 right now hope it works thank u
Good idea ive got a new gn and after a couple of days rest when it starts and goes into first it kicks as the clutch plates separate so ive tied the clutch lever back, to see what happens
Video starts at 5:20
My girlfriend’s cousin gave me a 1978 Honda XL100 that had been sitting for over 6 years. I cleaned the gas tank, lines and carburetor. One front fork was bone dry and collapsed all the way. The other still worked a bit but the tranny fluid had gone bad and think. I refurbished them because I couldn’t find affordable parts. Half the spokes were broken. So I got that fixed. Finally after all that I had a chance to take her up and down the street. I let her idle for 10 minutes and she went into first fine enough. Going to second and third was really rough and so I was too scared to put her in fourth. She hated when I kicked her down gears and in first she was so rough. I would stick my foot out to turn and she would stall. Not she is stuck in gear and can’t get her back into neutral. I will try this method. Hope it works.
Hi Daniel, wish you the best with it! I love hearing about those classic Honda being rescued. Curious about how much clutch action you feel on the lever. Sometimes the cable after sitting a while will stretch like mad in the first couple hours put back to use.
You probably know already that engine off and not touching the clutch at all, rocking the bike forward and backward should allow to shift through all gears relatively smoothly. If there's considerable resistance doing that, I would continue to do in hope gears start shifting smoother. It may be a case of some buildup of crud around the shift drum and manual shifting a bunch frees up the works. Also, how does the shift lever look too? If it's slipping on the spline, that will make catching gears near impossible 🧘♂️. Just a couple little things to hopefully help 🙏 Cheers
I'm going to be trying this on a CBR600. Im picking up soon! Clutches are sticking, so hopefully, this fixes it, and I can ride it home!
If you have an electric start just try start it in gear let the bike roll as soon as you get it started clutch in stop tilt the bike over to the clutch side while running in gear clutched in. Engage and disengage clutch just enough so it creeps forward it should get unstuck.
thanks man was dreading pulling my cover and did the ol Google search, found your bud and it worked! Thanks again!
Interesting idea. I will try it.
I will go out and try this right now! thank you!!
Best kind of luck to you 🧘♂️🧘♂️🧘♂️!
Tried this trick, it works. For everybody complaining about the length of the video, just turn playback speed to 1.5x
My 2003 CBR 600rr sat for two years! now clutch wont release after oil and coolant change. This should be the problem will give it a try. Thanks.
Thanks, saved me a lot of time was about to pull my bike apart
Just bought an old bike motor was seized. Used on blaster to free it .clutch is frozen but I cant pull the lever so I'm guessing this technique wont work in my situation. Thanks for sharing this
Good advice right here
Sweet thanks hope this works on my new blaster
I just got a zx7r that's been laid up for 5 years but moved about periodically and ran upto temp but not really been ridden anywhere. It had a new clutch kit and spring kit in 2013 so in like the last 5k miles but was then off the road from 2016 - now the bike fires up and runs fine and I can ride it and go up and down the gearbox but when you put it under wide open throttle the clutch is slipping as it goes up the rev range, would that be sticking friction plates? As the clutch itself is still actually fairly new.
Hi, that actually sounds like the engine is overpowering the clutch and the clutch is slipping periodically. Same thing happens on my 1400 intruder and I just ease off throttle a moment and she hooks up again. I believe springs should be replaced, or upgraded to get that plate pressure back👍
I just bought a 1981 yamaha seca 550 for 65 bucks. I cleaned the carbs and it fired up and runs great.. It had been sitting for 3 or more years. So the clutch is stuck and i really just want to ride it lol
At 2:20 I believe those are not worm gear splines. They are helical gear cut.
What if the bike has a hydraulic system to operate the clutch? Is it still safe to keep the lever pressed in over an extended period of time, or could that cause issues?
No difference in the theory behind the attempt to free up the plates. Only change is now you are relying on hydraulic to maintain pressure, so if a few days or a week pass and you still have pressure when you release the handle (feels same as day one), that's a tight system. You may develop a dead spot that goes away with a few full pumps of the lever, or it could turn completely flat and have to bleed line to get it back. Either way, any loss in pressure (clutch action) indicates a leak... more loss= bigger leak.
Listening to this dude is brutal
Thanks mate.. I have been struggling with my bike clutch and gears and due to lockdown i was not able to find any mechanic support. I too got my gears stick together i think cz i dint used it during the lockdown period. Hope your idea would work fir me. Thanks
Did it work??
My 2009 Honda Rebel 250 had only been sitting for about two weeks when the clutch stuck. I rocked it back and forth while in gear and the clutch released. A week later, it was stuck again. I’m trying your method now and will check it in one and two days. If it doesn’t release, would a complete oil change with Honda brand oil be worth trying? I’ve been riding since 1967 and have never had a clutch stick although most of my bikes are started and ridden every two weeks. I’ll let you know.
Hi Jeffrey, wonderful fun bike the 250 Rebel! Yes, plates stuck as often as your experiencing, for the minimal extra cost I'd just switch out to Honda brand oil -H4 I think they call it- as a process of elimination. If you can, run the engine up to operating temperature before drain and have a close look at that oil. Hoping it's not milky but if so you got water/condensation and possibly the exposed steel plates developed some rust. Fresh Honda oil and a ride probably will sort it 🙏
Your video helped alot i subscribed to your channel
Great to hear Andrew 🤟... thanks for your comments!
Would a chain locking up the rear wheel cause a certain gear to stick? My chain failed and locked up the rear wheel and I tried to restart but it’d die (thought it hydrolocked from gas spilling into the air box a few days earlier) well after finding out the chains the issue I replaced that and proceeded to test drive only able to get it to 2nd gear 3rd refused to move and then gas was spilling into the engine causing oil and gas to leak from the air box. I tore it down and nothing looks bad no metal shavings or anything but bikes still refuses to go past 2nd
Hi will riseabove, what year, make and model bike have you got? Really sounds like possible bent shift fork...doesn't take much of a bend to jam up the works. I've had the same thing- chain fail rear wheel lock up- happen to me many years ago. I was on a Yamaha 400 maxim. Nearly killed me, never hurt the bike a bit lol. A compilation of troubles are hard to juggle and sort right. Hope you can get fuel under control🙏. Without actually inspecting all transmission bits, my bet is shift forks and/or the shaft they travel on. Take a very close look at the grooves in the shift drum for any sign of damage. Best regards.
same problem on yz125 2011 twice, doing all this this time, cba to change it again, clutch is like new, bike is bullshi7ing me, should work, i thought about booting it round with the clutch in and heating it up, came looking for this basically, thanks man, if it works i will be back,
7 1\2 mins before... "Hey, just hold the handle down a while and add oil..." I swear this guy is from a sienfeld episode. "Jerry! Yeah, I couldn't keep going out with them... ... They were a slow talker! A slow talker, Jerry!"
Awesome presentation. Can’t wait to try it, and thanks for sharing!
Well, tried the clamp trick on a 2000 Vulcan 800. Couldn't get it to roll with clutch lever pulled. Let it sit overnight. Next day, its working like it should. Thanks
Hey idk if you still have access to this account but did you have oil in the bike
Thanks man, mine is 28 klms old and stuck.
I think im on the other side of the problem i thinke my clutch is slipping. Took it apart and cleaned it with w d 40. Got a little bit better. But someone told me to scrape the pads on a cement floor sort sanding it to get the glaze off. Heard of that?
Hi harrygrimley, I've roughed up dirt bike brake shoes to increase performance. Usually do it on my vintage bikes just before race day, use an 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. Clutch is bathed in oil though so any that I get in my shop with slipping trouble, first thing I suspect is springs. A service manual should give you specs on spring length. Tensile strength of each spring is hard to measure. Manual also for friction and steel plate thickness. If plates are worn bad usually that shows up in the cable - cable will seem stretched... and even if you put new one it would be adjusted oddly out more than it should as the clutch pack is not filling intended space.
I'm certainly no clutch expert, never tried roughing friction plates either. My thoughts on that... probably would help for a short period. High gloss on friction plates I would think means they slipped a good bit and the intense friction caused overheating, baked them to a gloss. If anything, I'd lay a sheet of 1000... maybe 800 grit on a pane of glass and give plates a quick scuff. My focus is still on the springs though. Also, some makes, models specify only conventional oil, mineral oil, transmission fluid, etc. More to the point, if the transmission fluid spec doesn't call for synthetic oil, putting that in definitely can give you slip. Best regards 🧘♂️
Do you think that this will work the same way with a Hydraulic clutch?
Yes, I believe so. Only way it wouldn't is if the hydraulic is leaking, bleeding off anywhere.
I'm storing my Scorpa trials bike like this from now on. #genius
Thank you so much for watching and your comment. I would actually recommend if you can to wait a day or two before you plan to use your scorpa and do the lever then. I've discovered that long term takes the tensile strength from the springs and clutch starts slipping 😑. Cheers
Can someone suggest ONE guy who does a logical flow-chart of what happens or don't and what to do as you eliminate issues. ?
My clutch is acting up after sitting for a while can I change the oil while I have the clutch clamped in 1994 cr 250
+glen glen keeping the clutch clamped in through an oil change should not hurt anything. All the best with your Honda. I'm actually in the market for something similar.
My actuator arm doesn't engage anything so clamping it would be pointless. Any guesses why? It worked fine u til the cable broke amd we replaced it. Not The bike won't roll in gear with the actuator arm all the way forward (the way its supposed to bE to shift).
Hi Mr Phillips, what type bike have you got?
Why is my cutch making a grinding sound?
My bike moves freely my clutch lever moves freely but I couldn’t get it to turn on my kick start was making a uneasy sound
Few cable ties on the clutch lever 24hrs, then rode it for about 20mins with ties still attached, bingo, clutch let go, cut the cable ties off, (make sure to carry a blade on the ride to cut the ties mid ride) ride home.normally, all fixed, put the ties back on for a while get some lube in-between them haha, not a single bolt turned for this fix, boom.
If my clutch has tension in it where i cant pull it back what is wrong?
cove creek fishing off the hook if the bike has sat untouched for some time It's possible the cable (if cable operated) had taken on water at some point and is now rusted internally. Rust will stop them tight. Need more info please... what kind of bike? And was there any work done then suddenly clutch is acting up? Sometimes something simple as kink or jam in the cable under gas tank can send a person chasing the wrong direction. Cheers.
Is it better to be in 1st gear, or in neutral?
I'd be inclined to think the highest gear available if you can, like fifth or sixth if you have it. I'm just thinking less strain on the transmission and/or kickstarter. Neutral likely best if only electric start. What kind of bike are you working on?
I bet if you had it on a stand with the back wheel off the ground un it slow and slam the rear brake just make sure it does not come off the jack
Idk if it's my clutch but I know my kicker is stuck idk what to do honestly
You need to check oil level and condition. Very likely you should drain the oil, pull a side casing or plug to enable you to physically turn over the engine. With all ignition switch off and spark plug removed, attempt to turn engine by hand. If it is truly stuck (seized), it is likely you are in for a fresh top end, but possible if it stuck from lack of use or at a low rpm, fresh oil and filter and rocking by hand back and forth 'might' get you back running again.
Hi could it cause weaker springs as a result of the clamping ?
Eventually yes it would. The time needed to relax those plates and let oil saturate between them -a day or two, perhaps even a week -should have little to no affect on spring strength. Just my opinion though 😏, I've never done any official test.
@@shopyoga Cool, I'll give it a go when I get a chance, And thanks for the video. Have liked and subscribed.
Do u think this could be the problem with mine? It goes in neutral ok but jerks to a stop as soon as i put it in gear
Sorry for such a delay in responding, life got crazy. Did you get your trouble sorted out Clive? It does sound like the clutch isn't letting go. Another possibility is kickstand safety switch but that can be ruled out if they bike will actually move under its own power, then when brought to a stop in gear immediately stalls -that kind of behaviour points directly to clutch.
@@shopyoga yes thanks it was the clutch plates that had gummed together into a solid mass due the gasket inside the clutch case letting coolant mix with the oil and turning it into a gooey mess .all sorted now .im hopefuly going to cut the restrictor out the exhaust this week .its a weird affair where its restricted deep inside the exhaust itself .ive no idea what ill find when i Dremel it open
@@cliveswabs9365 glad to hear you've had success! That exhaust job sounds like a good time... Cheers 🧘♂️
Which gear?
No difference which gear, neutral is fine too. Important to roll engine over at least once (don't even have to start it) just to get oil on every portion of clutch. Then, with the lever pulled in plates are relaxed and oil can work its way back into the fiber of the fiber plates. I usually go out and spin the engine couple times a day if that's an option just to keep the oil available to top of clutch pack.
2005 Kawa Nomad 1600 had it new since then with 17,000 miles
Can’t roll bike when in gear with clutch lever pulled in. Try to start in first clutch pulled in and bike jumps forward two feet. If I start bike in neutral warm up then try to drop it in first it lunges forward 2-3 feet dies. Then it’s ok
Bike rides well and no clutch slipping at all. Once the first break it’s good to ride all day but park it fir a few hrs and it locks up again. I have chg all Dot 4 a few times. Used the right oil no additives. I can’t tell what’s wrong and nobody else can either. I try rocking it back and forward in gear with clutch pulled in and it takes 10-15 hard pulls/pushes to break it free then everything is fine?? HELP!!!
The clutch basket has 'fingers' that hold one set of plates... typically the friction plates, and if they become worn or grooved even a little, that can cause those symptoms. That's rare though in that model, happens quite often to two stroke dirt bikes. A change in oil brand, type, viscosity can cause that too. More likely though, is that this has just become the nature of that bike with that mileage. I run a 1988 1400 Suzuki Intruder and have similar scenario. First start, cold start, if I want to leave right away I have to keep choke partly on and aim careful and expect to stall at first stop, hydraulic clutch will not disengage rear wheel until the engine warms at least a little and she's cold-hearted. If I let it sit 4-5 minutes while I put helmet and gloves, clutch is free (maybe the slightest pull at wheel) but no stall no issue. Otherwise, five to seven minutes into the ride sorts it too. Also, cold bike clutch in in gear would take three men to rock clutch free. I have new line, master and slave cylinders, but have yet to open basket.. likely never will until she starts slipping.
These massive torque engines require stiff clutch springs, and to pull and lock the lever even overnight may guarantee it will move clutch in in gear, but also guarantee clutch will start slipping soon because spring tensile is gone. Hope this helps.
Mine does stay okay all day after that initial warm up. A slight change of habit may help. After you are parked for a few hours and suspect clutch will be sticking, warm up just a little longer and hold clutch in for five or ten seconds before shift to gear🤔
Sorry about that oil comment as I reread and see proper oil, no additives.
I use a cable tie on my r1, otherwise it will stick after a few hours!
Those are some wicked strong springs!