Top 5 Methods of Rusting Metal
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- Опубліковано 9 тра 2017
- And yes I realize that I say "Mill Spec" not mill scale. My mistake, just got a bit tongue tied with my words. :)
In this video I will go over the top 5 methods of rusting metal in my shop. I would also say that one method in particular might just be the fast method of rusting metal known to man!
A large portion of the metal work I do in my shop comes from my custom metal sliding doors. And I would say the main reason I sell so many is due to the type of rusting I use on the doors. Everything from deep dark colors to lighter earthy colors.
If you're interested checking out more of the doors I make then visit me at the following websites below:
www.artfullyrogue.com
www.etsy.com/shop/ArtfullyRog...
/ artfullyrogue - Навчання та стиль
Thanks Doug, thanks for sharing your tips. I certainly will try a few of the techniques.
Scott Turner thanks for watching Scott
I've been playing chemist with all these chemicals in different ratio's as well as mixing and matching for some time now. Being a purist I wanted to see if I could manipulate the patina to become whatever color or intensity I wanted at that given time for that given project. The mixture that I found works the best and gives a wide array of colors from greenish turquoise to reds, to yellows, to purples.......you get the picture, was something I've named "Uncle Pappi's Elixir"......Don't ask me why I named it that, maybe the fumes got to me a little more than usual that day....lol. Anyways, in a 2 gallon plastic jug (something you'd put ice tea in that you'd buy at the Dollar General) cover the bottom 3-4 inches with epsom salt, you can't really put to much of the epsom in I've found other than if you put to much in all of it won't dissolve. I have found to little epsom though won't give as good as results in how it works. If you find all the salt having a hard time completely dissolving pour some of it out into another container and top it off with distilled water. As you use the solution you can pour what you poured off back in and it works fine. Next to that add 1/2-3/4 cup of muriatic acid (important you add the muriatic at this stage and not at the end. Adding to the jug after you have already put the vinegar and distilled water in can and will cause it to boil violently out of the jug and it would be a bad deal getting this on you or in your face. Always add acids to a formula they are called in first before any other liquid.) 1 gallon of white vinegar, 1 24-32oz bottle of hydrogen peroxide, and top the rest off with distilled water (distilled water actually gives better results than just using tap or even regular bottled water). I then take a handful of scrap copper whether it be tubing or sheet and cut it up so it can fit in the jugs opening. Make sure you clean the copper well getting any grime, oils or grease off it before adding. Put the lid on the jug, shake well and let everything get happy together overnight. I have a 55 gallon drum I split and added grates to sit smaller items on and you can either pour the solution directly on whatever it is your patina'ing or you can add to a spray bottle and apply by spritzing. The important thing is be generous. You want complete saturation. At this point you can press it like you showed in the video with another piece of steel or I've gotten some awesome results using some hybrid metals like magnesium, zinc, brass, silver, tin, cast, etc layered between the metal being patina'd and something heavy. Aluminum just overpowers the whole process and turns everything black. The sweet spot leaving it pressed seems to be 24 hrs and at that point depending on how intense or the colors you are trying to bring out are start spritzing the metal alternating between distilled water and the solution letting it completely dry between each spritzing. It seems any patina formed within 48 hrs of the first application just hasn't had enough time to bite and can either flake off easy or wipe off even when sealed. Temperature and humidity play a huge roll on both the colors you get and the amount of time it takes to get a good etched in patina. The warmer and more humid the heavier the patina and the more vivid the range of colors are. The process also happens in half the time. I live in Montana and this process takes twice as long in the winter than in the summer but I can't get the intensity of colors in the winter either like I do in the summer. Another neat look this mixture makes is it forms crystals withing the patina and rust from the epsom salt solidifying after it dries. I've tried using every other salt you can buy and none of them work as well rusting or recrystalize like the epsome does. I have kept a note book documenting temp, humidity, if I've used a different brand in the chemicals I used in the solution or if I may have changed the mix ratio slightly, tried a different application, tried adding something or omitting something. You get the point. All of us know how to rust things and do it quick if needed. I however wanted to see if I could do what mother nature can do, know what it was that I did to make it and know I did it without using dyes, paints, oils, or synthetics that often truly look fake or like they were painted. Once the stuff is applied you can speed the process up and get a more intense look by covering with some plastic sheeting to keep it from drying out so fast the first few days will speed things along giving a more intense finish. When you figure out what all the different environmental factors or things you can do to cause such drastic differences it really does add a lot of fun to the process. One thing that can cause grief is any scale, oil, or grease that can come off your hands or wasn't cleaned off the metal very well will cause issues and I can attest nothing can be more frustrating than when you cant get the process to work the same way the next time you do it like it did the previous time though. Especially if its from simply not cleaning it thoroughly. However if you pay attention to what you did and used I've found 70-75% of the time you can get what you are after though. One last thing, once this stuff has time to get mixed and marinate properly it will look just like windex glass cleaner so if you put it in a spray bottle make sure you mark accordingly. This stuff is very corrosive and just the fumes can start corroding things if its left to fume from its jug without the lid. Keep the lid on if you don't want other things to get affected. The reply was long I know but I wanted to share my findings and hope it can help those of you looking to get more out of their patina'd finishes. If you have questions feel free to ask. Thanks, Michael J.
Wow thanks for sharing Michael! It's interesting you mention how hot and cold affects the outcome. Living in Arizona, my summers create much richer colors much faster for sure. I'll have to try " Uncle Pappi's Elixir"
I meant to ask, have you found anything that will rust stainless?
@@ArtfullyRogue I found if you use the old uncle pappy's soaked 0000 steal wool and cover the stainless with gives a interesting look. Let me know what you think when you try these.
What about galvanized corrugated roofing? Can you guys tell me the quickest way to rust that? Also, I saw a guy use muriatic acid and then ammonia to neutralize it and stop the rusting process. Do either if you have experience with that?
Fantastic! Thanks so much for sharing your experiments. I'm thinking of doing a large corrugated fence (8'x150'), and don't plan on sealing it - I'll just let it continue to rust. Given the large scale of the project, any tips on how to best process all those sheets?
Doug, thank you! I’m just a hobbyist with welding and I only ever painted stuff before. I can’t wait to try to finish something more creatively and cool like your works. You’re an awesome artist and an awesome human for helping others! Sending good karma your way. 🙂👍
Thanks Gary greatly appreciated😊😊
Thank you so much for the tips! I've been looking for a way to consistently do rust bluing on steel parts like tools and firearms, and have expended a lot of resources and time into it, so you saved me a lot of future research and money.
My pleasure Matt glad it was useful
Just found your channel today. I was needing to fast rust something I made for the wife. THANK YOU BRO!!
I love your channel. I subscribed.
Totally appreciate the sub browill9
I love experiments, and I love the pressed vinegar method! While making a steel planter (4'L x 2'T x 1'D) I found a method where you spray vinegar a few times (over an hour or so) then use a peroxide, vinegar, salt spray. The client wanted a cor-ten look, but in Georgia cor-ten lasts about the same amount of time as mild steel because of the humidity (and mild steel is way cheaper). I didn't want to mess with caustic chemicals because there are children and pets around. The results with the peroxide/salt/vinegar mix were great. Now I'm doing some metal 'paintings' using rust patterns for the same client. I'm loving it and am so grateful to find your channel. Thanks!
Im in the process of building some planters in the garden and also want to create a look similar to corten!!! Would love to see some phots of how yours turned out. Also what thickness steel sheet did you use. I've looked at some 3mm sheets but am a little concerned the rust will work its way all the way through very quickly!!!
After misting with vinegar I'll mist with water and it'll rust a lot faster. Also if you apply vinegar and water in different intervals it'll produce different colors. Great video!
I appreciate the extra tips Lee :)
Lee Sisson that’s awesome thanks
Thank you so much! This is exactly what I needed. I tried it and it worked perfectly!!
glad it helped
Thanks for the video- love that sun design in the steel behind you at the end. We just did a acid finish in our bathroom on the wall based on your technique- Looks so cool!
Very cool, I'm glad the video helped out
This was interesting and helpful. I've had luck mixing vinegar and peroxide and using it on Modern Master's iron paint. Good Job. Thanks.
Cool thanks for watching Peter
Beautiful, Doug!
Thank-You for sharing those tips!
Thanks for watching Shelly and you are very welcome
Hi Doug,
My method is similar and works very well. I use mainly vinegar with the addition of a little peroxide and a bit of salt. It works a treat!
I've actually never had salt do much for me. I might have to play around with it again
Artfully Rogue salt makes the rust patina lighter orange color as metal crystals (rust) mixes with salt crystals. But the more salt you have the more porous patina will be and more easier to break off the surface.
I had to seal with 50% xylene diluted concrete sealer to preserve texture and bond better to metal surface.
Do you get teal with this?
I watched your other videos. All great. Thank you kindly for sharing your knowledge, it is much appreciate it. God bless you 👏🏼👍🏼🙏🏼
Thank you very much Rosa
I've found a salt and vinegar spray followed with a peroxide spray works very fast as well. Sprinkling lots of salt on the metal can also create pits if desired, but it takes a day or more. I love your videos and products!
Thanks for the suggestion! I've tried salt in the past but didn't really get much result. I'll have to give it another go and be a bit more patient
What kind of salt do you use?
man, this is awesome... thank you so much for this video! I'm a student in architecture and really wanna put metal on some of my walls but have no money to pay someone to do it. so I will do this on some cheap metal myself :) thank you!
Excellent I love the idea of doing it yourself. So glad my video will help with that.
Thanks for sharing. I've been trying to find a way to patina metals . I'm working on a new idea to screen print signs to make a bed but do not want to use valuable old ones. This helps greatly.
Sounds great Frank
The misspelled "Vinger" is my absolute favorite, especially with the high quality zoom: 3:10
Thanks Doug!
thanks for helping me out with your suggestions.
Happy to help Darcelle
Good job! Thank you for that! Very familiar with the message, however, the way you demonstrated, was excellent and highly comprehensible. Thanks for teaching people! I have other message I use as well. But yours are awesome. Keep up the great work. Stay well and have a beautiful day.👍🙏
Thanks a ton for the comment
I’ve used muriatic acid to remove mill scale, I actually submerge it since it’s smaller parts. If I don’t neutralize it, I will get some serious rust in no time. I haven’t considered leaving it for a patina. I love the idea for some future projects.
Yeah either painting or spraying on the acid then spraying on peroxide creates a quick rust. And it will continue to do its thing if you leave it for a few days, it goes darker with more color variation
When I get the color like, before I seal it I tend to wash it with baking soda to neutralize the acid. Then apply a sealer.
Very interesting... After your confession about your year old lemon juice I’m going to assume you didn’t squeeze any lemons. But oh my God, l almost choked on my coffee when you made your “Sound effect” after the lemon juice fail! I also, loved the way you used a work glove 🧤 to make your pointer! Too funny!
No lemons squeezed...at least not by my hands :) I used the lemon juice in the bottle
Thanks Rogue - I just watched a video that uses a solution of peroxide and a small amount of vinegar mixed. It was not as fast as the muriatic acid but faster than vinegar alone.
You're very welcome! Yeah used the vinegar/peroxide method for a short time but them stumbled on the acid/peroxide method and now thats my preference for sure because of the fast acting result
Nice work! Love the doors!
Thank you very much!
Cool doors. A respirator is a must with the muriatic acid - way more important then the gloves. It's easier to wash your hands then your lungs. As someone with lung damage I had to mention this.
I hear you on the respirator, I've made a more focused effort to wear it when dealing with acid
really helpful video, thanks for taking the trouble to put this up
You're very welcome Gary! It took me a while to figure some of this stuff out, so I was hoping it might help others
Such a great video man thank you!!!
Very interesting, even for this jewelry artist. Could the folks suggesting salt be thinking of how it works with ammonia on copper for patinas? Just a thought.
Great video very informative. Going to try tonight.
thanks Mark
Very helpful video. Thanks so much for this.
Thanks for watching Jazz
Mr Salt says you are not welcome to his parties anymore :( (not even a mention!?). Lol. Great video! that was super quick and yep, you're the best in town. Thumbs up!
Thanks greatly appreciated!
Great tutorial. I create assemblages. Mixed media and this is very useful for me. What other little do dads would rust that u can think of? Thanks Bon
You should consider using Everbrite UV Protective Clear Coat to seal rusted metals. It is a flexible coating unlike a lacquer which will ultimately crack and peel off as the lacquere will not expand and contract with the hot and cold weather. Very important to neutralise the surface of any acids and ensure BONE DRY before applying any coating. Otherwise the steel will continue to rust under the coating - and this will cuse any coating to lose adherence. A spray or wipe down with acetone is also recommended before applying the first coat.
Thanks Doug, these do work!
Very cool and informative video. I'm making a door myself though I don't know very much about this process. I noticed leaving the oil on the steel makes it take much longer to rust but leaves some interesting features, such as swirling patterns. I'd be interested to know what types of sealers would work well for this method. From what I've heard epoxy resin is good for low heat such as interior doors, though my door will be a front exterior door and I expect it could reach 140 F in the summer.
I think whatever sealer is used, you'll have to reapply seasonally if the metal is exposed to outside conditions. I personally use a product from Deft that I get at Home Depot. I sprays on great and leaves a nice finish. I find that rustoleum sealers leave behind tiny particles on my projects, could be shop dust floating about as well.
You can also add blowpipe heating to give color variations and faster rusting
I'll have to check that out for sure thanks Claudio
I heated metal before and also after applying the peroxyde, and then plunge it into water to cool it fast and remove the smaller dusty rust, there are possibilities to test...
These methods are great! Can I use any of these methods over stainless steel? I have used Lysol toilet bowl cleaner with steel wool left on top of it on unsanded stainless in the past and it’s worked pretty well but I would love to use something more natural if I can. Thanks.
Hi, thanks for sharing this. what concentration is the acid? Over here (UK) it's commonly 35% and this strips oxides from steel
Thank you so much for this informative video ! It's got me thinking of some different ways to artfully finish the exterior of a Tiny home. I was wondering about using this kind of a finishing method on an exterior made with SIP's, having a Metal exterior component. I was wondering how added exposure to the elements would affect the surface of the rusted metal.
I guess the clear coat is the question. I'm wondering how durable the finish would be? Do you think a clear epoxy finish would be a better long term solution over the whole project ? My biggest concern would be with future rust of a deeper nature. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated !
Again, thank you for sharing your great video and any future feedback you may have !
as a general rule Epoxy does not resist sunlight. Boat builders usually surface coat epoxy with a uv resistant varnish or some such.
What a grrat video!! Thats awesome i love metal
Great idea
Gotta try it👍👏🤗
Wow! my name in lights! awesome video, and I thought all that rusting technique was fancy hair color-changing dyes.
hmmm I might have to try hair dyes :)
I like the dark blue accents on your metal doors. How did the blue form? Any tips on how to get more blue and less red/brown?
The pointing glove on a stick made my day. Wondered if throwing some salt crystals on would add a blotchiness?
I've never played too much with salt but when I have it never produced anything mind blowing for me
I am rebuilding a 72C10. I am wanting to add chain to the truck. I will buy new chain and use your advice to give it a rusted look.
Cool, I bet that'll look amazing
Hi Doug, I'm in the process of using your White Vinegar process for rusting some corrugated material for a client project. The vinegar works really fast and I'm pleased with the results so far. My question as to do with "stopping the process". Do you rinse your metal with water on other solution prior to applying your top coat sealer? Thanks for your informative videos.
On my doors i simply apply the clear coat because i dont want water seeping into the interior. Something like the water feature I build, yes I'll rinse with water first then clear coat, but with the water feature, I'm using acid and peroxide which is more aggressive than vinegar
Hi cool video
One question . Do you have to wash before applying a clear coat or apply on top of the viniger?
Thank you for this. Very interesting.
Thanks, I'm hoping to add a few new methods of rusting to this list soon
Thanks for the video. Others say if you clear coat ONLY, the coating will eventually start to peel. They suggest using Flood PENETROL then clear coat with oil based, not water based (water over oil doesn't stick). Your thought on this?
I've never used penetrol but also haven't had any peeling issues to date that I can think of
Thank you so much for this video! Would the vinegar pressed method work on galvanized corrugated metal? Got a bathroom project coming up after the holidays and would like to use it for a wainscoting.
In order to rust anything galvanized, you'll need to remove the galvanization that protects the steel from rusting
I have used vinegar and peroxide on cleaned metal. I'm definitely not a chemist but it's my understanding that the acids (muriatic or vinegar) are acting as etchants to clean the surface and the peroxide is the source of abundant oxygen ions to make iron oxide (rust). I have used lacquer as sealants in the past but found that in some cases the rusting process continues even if I've applied a baking soda wash to neutralize the surface. I'm now using Flood Penetrol to neutralize the rust and seal in one step.
Steve Ulrich I'll look into Flood Penetrol for sure. The door that's in my shop was sealed with Deft a year ago and I've not seen any real noticeable changes but I'm in Phoenix where humidity is low. I'm curious how it would do on the east coast. luckily I've not had any east coast client call to say their door rusted apart yet☺
Gulf coast, Texas. Humidity? we got it! I was using Deft's (or Minwax) brushing lacquer product. The finish lasted for several months indoors but eventually developed a light dusting of surface rust. A quick swipe with steel wool and another coat or two or lacquer and called it good. The Penetrol has a slight sheen to it. Dries slowly (hours) but can be wiped on with a rag with little chance of runs. It's meant to be an additive to paint to aid in use on metals outdoors BUT it can also be used stand alone. Give it a try. Like your channel. thanks!
Just found your channel, love the pointer you used in the beginning 🤣
Awesome! Thank you!
Excellent video. Thank you.
thank you very much!!
Great video sir, very informative, can't await to try the vinegar method on some corrugated metal:)
Cool thanks Kevin
I have a tip . I 've been rusting metal for quite a while now and if i get a chance i will upload a video . A light layer of muriatic acid like you did and when spraying the hydrogen peroxide wait till it stops bubbling or that white foam disappears it should take less than a minute and then tilt the metal sheet so that it runs off the metal , it doesnt have to be completely . Respray the hydrogen peroxide and it will accelerate the oxidation quite dramatically. Repeat this 2 more times and you will notice a browner metal rich in oxygen . Tilt the metal so that it runs off and it will start drying in minutes giving you a beautiful red and light yellow rust that looks beautiful in furniture pieces. This takes less than 30 minutes
Thanks for the tip Jose
Thank you🤗🤗...If i use deft spray...is it will prevent the dust from peeling, liquefy or seep on the ground ? and does it keep it from being rusted anymore?
Once you spray the rust it will slow the process down but yes it does help keep it from peeling or seeping onto the ground
So cool! I want to do this to a watch case and see if I can get something similar to the Rolex "Dark Star". Have you ever done anything like that? Got any tips for how I should go about it?
I know it works on steel but not on stainless or aluminum. The longer you leave it the darker it will get
Hi! Nice video. I want to make a backsplash with galvanized metal sheets and rust them. Does muriatic acid and peroxide works on galvanized steel? Thanks!
Sorry for the delayed response, you would need to remove the galvanization first before you can rust the metal
Not only good information, but very well presented. I subscribed. I noticed the rail for the door behind you was not rusted. I am thinking of rusting my barn door rail, but is there a reason you would caution against doing that? Thank you again for the great video!
Rusting the rail would be fine. As long as you avoid surface flaking so as the door travels the rust stays where it's suppose to and not end up on the floor
Just finished an art piece based on your techniques. It turned out really cool! It isn't perfect, but for a first attempt with a couple of my own technique modifications, I'm pretty happy with it. If there's a way to send you a photo, I will. Please let me know. Thanks for the knowledge! ✌️👽
Sounds great! you can send me an email at rogueartist@artfullyrogue.com
I can't find any info on aging a cheap tin bucket... Most how to's work on steel or galvanized finishes. Will any of these work for my project?
Tin is a little tricky because it depends on the materials used to make that particular tin. I find that many times, if I can sand the metal and exposed the metal below any 'protective' coating then I can use the vinegar or acid/peroxide treatment
I rusted a lot of stuff by mistake-I wanted to strip the galvanised (zinc) coating off some cheap spanners (wrenches). I dropped into a plastic bath of muriatic acid (neat). I left it outside my shop door, and had a cover over it to keep the rain off but high enough to let the gases out. I got occasional smells of the gas.The fumes permated my shop and rusted bare steel several feet away from the bath.Maybe something to try to bulk rust materials. You must keep it away from your shop though as the fumes will attack tooling etc, and, the fumes will overcome small animals/birds etc!. And have a bucket of bicarbonate solution in case of accidents.
Citric acid powder might be better than lemon juice? -maybe, its used to remove rust by some makers, but maybe worth a try.
As always, be careful out there with this stuff-good to see those subs going up.
Jaques Daniels yeah I use muriatic acid a lot when removing zinc from screws and or lags. And then use it in combination with hydrogen peroxide to get a fast rust on mild steel
Great video! Beautiful work! Just curious if the deft woks well for exterior? We purposely rusted an entire car and want to seal it with something that will maintain the rich patterns. We tried boiled Linseed oil, based on some recommendations online but it dulls the color down so much and we lose all the cool effects...
Honestly I would use an automotive clear coat. You can get a two part clear coat that seals, protects and maintain the cool colors of the rust. I use the suto clear coat on my water features
....hi, brilliant stuff.. can I just check with you, what kind of vinegar are you using..? thanks...
Good information neighbor.. I’m seeking to put a patina on galvanized conduit so if you have any ideas or can steer me in another direction I would appreciate... thanks
Just grind off the galvanization and you'll have no problems getting the patina look you want
I have an antique gun barrel that was cleaned and I would like to restore some black patina. Do you have any suggestions?
Hello John, Can't say I've ever done a gun restore before however I've heard of using gun bluing . I would suggest checking out video on bluing to get the best info. Bluing is something I still want to try but haven't yet
Hi,
I have a newbie question, once you seal the sheet with the wood sealant. How reactive or protective is it to other chemicals if they come in contact with the material (after sealing).
I want to use this technique in a hairdressers.
Tha ks
Honestly, I'm not sure. I would guess if it comes into contact with any harsh chemicals, like acid or acetone etc., the clear coat would be eliminated. A paint on epoxy might be a bit more durable in a situation where chemicals might be used on a daily basis.
hi. when yo finish what you put exacty to protect exept spray?
I built cabinet doors with 26 gauge cold rolled sheet steel as the raised panel. I rusted it with the acid/peroxide method and then 4 coats of deft spray lacquer. Looks great but after a couple weeks i now have some of the rust flaking off. I'm wondering if i should have used some kind of neutralizer before the lacquer? Any suggestions?
If the rust is flaking off, it wasn't given time to bite into the metal and was just a surface rust. What method did you use to rust the metal?
@@ArtfullyRogue Muriatic acid brushed on to Dawn cleaned steel. Sometimes sanded. Then hydrogen peroxide sprayed on. I have found that rusting steel is like a box of chocolate .... I've seen that sometimes the hydrogen peroxide seems to puddle and not bite but it creates some beautiful flowing patterns. These are the areas that flake. I also rusted the same way, some roof panels out of new corrugated steel. I sprayed them off with water the same day that they were rusted to neutralize them. they haven't flaked and have been outside (in Colorado) but no lacquer. They have not flaked. I have to admit I'm not very patient and have sprayed lacquer the morning after rusting the metal. To make matters more complicated, some of the puddled areas haven't flaked! Is there a way for me to attach photos? Thanks Dude, I apreciate you responding!
Does anyone know how I could possibly get a really dark almost black rust on a truck trying to build a true patina truck and I love the black rust but I can’t think of something to press on the panels for 48 hours
Hi Doug It looks great job,
I Will certainly try It,
Just a question di you think this technique can be used on bathroom Vanity steel? Do you have a tip for a strong waterproof sealer?
Thanks Stefano
This process seems to work on all mild steel without mill scale. Although I haven't used it yet, I hear Penetrol works really well. It's paint additive but used by itself is a very effective sealer. RIght now I've been trying different two part auto clear coats but nothing jumps out as being great over rust without applying multiple coats
Thanks Doug i Will try to find Penetrol in local market as im in Italy.
Hey Doug, thx 4 the vid!! How long do u recommend leaving the metal for the rust to set and actually bond to the metal so its not just a powder on the surface?
During the summer, I leave for a few days. During winter, a week or two
Can I use the muriatic acid and peroxide on stainless steel sheet metal, not to rust per se, but to give it an interesting finish? Also should I neutralize it before sealing it? Thanks!
I havent had much luck with it on stainless
Painted then rusted some wrought iron furniture, after seeing your channel. Sealed with the Deft satin spray lacquer , applying 3 coats at half hour apart. How does that product compare to Rustoleum clear satin enamel for a sealer? Do either of these yellow significantly, and do they stop the rusting. Rinsed the metal well with water. Just wondering if the chemical reactions keep going for a while even after the sealer is on. Thank you for a reply.
For some reason I find that Rustoleum has little particles that show up on the doors. I haven't had any issues with yellowing on my metal doors. Once you seal in the rust with a clear coat, as long as no oxygen can get to it, it should stop or greatly reduce the rust from going further.
Ok, thank you
Hi after the process Are use vinegar peroxide sea salt mixture do you recommend to rinse it off before you clear coat it
As long as you've given the mixture enough time to really secure itself to the metal then I'd rinse however I pour water over the surface as opposed to using a hose with even low pressure. Then I'll let it dry and clear coat the surface
Can this punch tiny holes y regular zinc metal roof sheets?
"Mill spec" is military specifications.
"Mill scale" is what he's meaning to say.
Do I need to press metal on metal(vinegar pressed method) ? Or can I use another thing to press? Like wood, plastic, stone etc?
You can use whatever you like as long as it prevents evaporation.
I'm about to try this on some bedside table draw fronts i'm making, tossing up between just vinegar or using the muriatic acid and peroxide approach. do you need to neutralise either once you get your desired result, or do you just go straight to the clear coat?
typically once the item is dry, yes I'll go straight to the clear coat. Rinsing the vinegar too early can remove it. Whereas rinsing the acid/peroxide is fine at any stage
@@ArtfullyRogue Thanks Doug!!
Can we make cold rolled steel (natural) Finish in Fabricated steel skin of sheet?
I love the patch metal door at the end of video. I hope I’m not asking for your secrets but did you rivet them together on a wood core? Thanks, a new subscriber.
Thanks for sub Dave! Actually I weld a metal framework from 1.5" square tubing and then tack weld all of the sheet metal pieces onto the frame. On occasion I will use rivets, however the majority of the time I use tack welds
I love the doors, how much for them ??
Was the muriatic acid diluted? If so what ratio to water? Thanks! Very cool to see!
Have you tried adding food coloring to vinegar for color? I'm looking for that blue green patina.
Yes actually I have! :) I figured if it would dye eggs then why not try metal. For blue green patinas, check out Sculpt Nouveau, they have a blue green stain that I find works well
ohhh man!!! Very useful and cool video !!! You have a new follower! waaaves from Italy !!!!!!!!!!!!! I thank you !!!!!!!! big smile
Awesome, thank you!
Quick question. I'm rusting a metal sign, roll sheet steel with a design cut out. But it has vinyl lettering on the bottom. Will the vinegar peel the vinyl?
It shouldn't. Really depends on the quality of the vinyl
@@ArtfullyRogue thank you. I wish you could send a picture of this sign, because it is absolutely beautiful. It's for a pizza place in Southwestern Michigan
Hi! great video man, answered a lot of questions I had, but I am having one problem right now that its making me go crazy. I am trying to rust a motorcycle gas tank. I am using a solution of hydrogen peroxide w/ vinager and some salt. In some parts of the tank the rust is very strong, and even in some parts it takes a while to come off while being sanded. But in other areas, i cant get the rust to bite the metal, it keeps coming off and off and off. I have already tried different methods and that keeps happening, a have already degreased and sanded that specific area of the tank. So I am thinking, how long should I let it sit after it dries? Because the rust on those areas is more like dust, and since I have to manipulate the tank several times before I apply some clear coating, that freaking dust will come off and leave the metal just clean...
Thanks again, great video and greetings from Argentina!
If you can fit the gas tank in a plastic container or plastic bag, use your rusting solution on the tank and close the tank in the plastic container. Keep the solution from evaporating too quick. The longer the solution stays on the metal the better.
Would the vinegar method work on galvanized steel water tanks/troughs?
Yes it will however you'll need to remove the galvanized top layer. I find that a flap wheel on an angle grinder works best for that.
Hey Doug. Quick question, when using M , A once you achieve the look you like, do you rinse it off to stop the chemical reaction? I followed your steps on the video , I wrapped a hood vent for our cabinet show room, I rusted it with M,A let it dry then applied the sealer now a couple of months later, everything is peeling off, has that happened to you?
Yes once you get the rusted look you want, rinse it off, let it dry then add a clear coat to seal it. Preventing oxygen access to the metal will greatly reduce any further rusting. Keep in mind, nature will find a way, it is very persistent. So watch it, add more clear cost as needed.
@@ArtfullyRogue thanks for the response,
Hi Doug thanks for all your tips. I have a vintage Simmons metal dresser sanded down ready to rust out. What would be the effect of just wiping vinegar onto it? Versus spraying? And how long do I have to wait before I clear coat?
Let me know bro Great stuff you have here!
Hi there Mark, wiping the vinegar on has a cool effect actually and the longer you leave it on, the darker it will go. Once its reaches a point where you're happy, clear coat it. Keep in mind it will darken a bit more with the clear coat. I would also suggest testing on a sample first.
@@ArtfullyRogue Thank you
Hi, will this work on stainless steel? I have a kettle I'd like to age and finding it difficult to get the information I need to just do this as a home project. Thanks in advance :)
I haven't found anything that will rust stainless in the same manner
You missed the most important item when using Muriatic Acid, a breathing mask. I am not criticizing, thank you for this video. Very good!
Hi Doug,
I am looking to do a large outdoors bar sign, I have two questions if you could help?
What percentage of peroxide do I need, I can only seem to find 3% food grade.
Secondly I am wanting to clear coat it but loved the copper sulfate but worried about the reaction to the lacquer! using the Muriatic acid and Peroxide and vinegar will the clear coat work ok?
Hi David, I use the 3% peroxide as it readily available. I either spray or brush on the acid then spray on the peroxide. And other making the rust a little darker, I've not not any issues with using clear coat on the peroxide/acid method or the copper sulfate.
@@ArtfullyRogue Thanks for the advice Doug, really appreciate the help. Your work looks amazing, got a crazy deadline to get these bar signs done but will post you a few pics upon completion.
Thanks David, I look forward to seeing the finished signs :)
You can get MUCH stronger peroxide at Beauty Supply stores.
Great spot Doug! One question..maybe two. Do you use anything to "stop" the corrosive action before you seal the metal? Also, do you rinse with water before sealing? Planning on doing a tin roof. Will the typical galvanizing slow/prevent the process?
I typically rinse with water and let dry then apply a spray on clear coat
@@ArtfullyRogue which brand?
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 Deft clear coat for wood also works for metal.
Depends what your doing it on. I’ve done a similar technique on wood; prime it first, 2nd step; (1-2 coats paint depending on desired look) 3rd step: metal flake paint placed in random areas …1st coat dry 2nd coat WET then apply this patina spray recipe into a spray bottle: 1/2 inch of salt at bottom of spray bottle, then pour in 16 oz. Hydrogen peroxide then top off with distilled vinegar just to the neck of spray bottle so that there is some room to shake the salt into the mixture.
Okay now that we’ve made our patina concoction apply that to the 2nd coat of WET metal paint…leave on until you get the desired effect and put 2 coats of clear coat on.
Easy Peasy…my directions probably sound intimidating 😜
Doug, Do you have an exterior sealer you would recommend? Say like an exterior polyurethane?
I often use Deft spray clear coat or I'll use an automotive two spray on,,, I forget the brand at the moment but I'll check tomorrow when I'm at the shop
I tried muriatic acid and peroxide last night on old corrugated metal. It reacted and smoked and flashed immediately. I left it overnight to no ado...any suggestions?
Need a little help.. I want to paint an American flag on a 48” x 36” piece of steel and then incorporate a substantial rust affect. Will I get the rust affect if the steel is painted?
I suppose it will depend on the type of paint you use. If it's a metal stain, then you should get some rust penetration. If you're using an enamel I doubt it will get to the metal enough to make a difference.
Any tips on rusting stainless ?? I want to rust steel wedding bands but I can only find them in stainless
For the most part stainless won't rust. However, because I've built projects and didn't want them to rust, somehow I've managed to still find a way. It's not easy, but you need to use a grinder flap wheel on mild steel so the steel "powder" embeds itself into the flap wheel. Then use that same flap wheel on stainless. The steel powder, transfers to the stainless and its the steel powder that makes it look like the stainless is rusting. You're working with something very small so another way I managed to get stainless to rust was to, again grind or sand the stainless to "open the pores" so to speak, then place the stainless in a bag an drop in a rag with some pool acid, then close the bag. Over time the acid will begin to rust the stainless. I did this with an old stainless milk carton. Hope this helps.
What about painted metal? I have 2 white color plaques I want to rust a bit on edges for a craft project. Paint is hard to find that will adhere to metal. Thank you.
The best paint for metal is an oil based paint. And the metal must be cleaned with alcohol or mineral spirits, then lightly sanded with sand paper then cleaned again and then you're ready for painting
Have you tried applying heat such as a propane torch, it seems to accelerate the process.
I have and I really didn't noticed anything significant for my what I'm doing with it
I use aqua fortis to rust steel & iron. It's a mild nitric acid solution.
cool, I'll to check it out
Great video! Just curious...what caused the blue coloring? Or is that just a lighting thing when you took the photo?
Honestly I think its the lighting. I've tried several methods of getting blue and none have worked out the way i want them
Great stuff! thanks
Thanks for watching Joel!