I've been playing chemist with all these chemicals in different ratio's as well as mixing and matching for some time now. Being a purist I wanted to see if I could manipulate the patina to become whatever color or intensity I wanted at that given time for that given project. The mixture that I found works the best and gives a wide array of colors from greenish turquoise to reds, to yellows, to purples.......you get the picture, was something I've named "Uncle Pappi's Elixir"......Don't ask me why I named it that, maybe the fumes got to me a little more than usual that day....lol. Anyways, in a 2 gallon plastic jug (something you'd put ice tea in that you'd buy at the Dollar General) cover the bottom 3-4 inches with epsom salt, you can't really put to much of the epsom in I've found other than if you put to much in all of it won't dissolve. I have found to little epsom though won't give as good as results in how it works. If you find all the salt having a hard time completely dissolving pour some of it out into another container and top it off with distilled water. As you use the solution you can pour what you poured off back in and it works fine. Next to that add 1/2-3/4 cup of muriatic acid (important you add the muriatic at this stage and not at the end. Adding to the jug after you have already put the vinegar and distilled water in can and will cause it to boil violently out of the jug and it would be a bad deal getting this on you or in your face. Always add acids to a formula they are called in first before any other liquid.) 1 gallon of white vinegar, 1 24-32oz bottle of hydrogen peroxide, and top the rest off with distilled water (distilled water actually gives better results than just using tap or even regular bottled water). I then take a handful of scrap copper whether it be tubing or sheet and cut it up so it can fit in the jugs opening. Make sure you clean the copper well getting any grime, oils or grease off it before adding. Put the lid on the jug, shake well and let everything get happy together overnight. I have a 55 gallon drum I split and added grates to sit smaller items on and you can either pour the solution directly on whatever it is your patina'ing or you can add to a spray bottle and apply by spritzing. The important thing is be generous. You want complete saturation. At this point you can press it like you showed in the video with another piece of steel or I've gotten some awesome results using some hybrid metals like magnesium, zinc, brass, silver, tin, cast, etc layered between the metal being patina'd and something heavy. Aluminum just overpowers the whole process and turns everything black. The sweet spot leaving it pressed seems to be 24 hrs and at that point depending on how intense or the colors you are trying to bring out are start spritzing the metal alternating between distilled water and the solution letting it completely dry between each spritzing. It seems any patina formed within 48 hrs of the first application just hasn't had enough time to bite and can either flake off easy or wipe off even when sealed. Temperature and humidity play a huge roll on both the colors you get and the amount of time it takes to get a good etched in patina. The warmer and more humid the heavier the patina and the more vivid the range of colors are. The process also happens in half the time. I live in Montana and this process takes twice as long in the winter than in the summer but I can't get the intensity of colors in the winter either like I do in the summer. Another neat look this mixture makes is it forms crystals withing the patina and rust from the epsom salt solidifying after it dries. I've tried using every other salt you can buy and none of them work as well rusting or recrystalize like the epsome does. I have kept a note book documenting temp, humidity, if I've used a different brand in the chemicals I used in the solution or if I may have changed the mix ratio slightly, tried a different application, tried adding something or omitting something. You get the point. All of us know how to rust things and do it quick if needed. I however wanted to see if I could do what mother nature can do, know what it was that I did to make it and know I did it without using dyes, paints, oils, or synthetics that often truly look fake or like they were painted. Once the stuff is applied you can speed the process up and get a more intense look by covering with some plastic sheeting to keep it from drying out so fast the first few days will speed things along giving a more intense finish. When you figure out what all the different environmental factors or things you can do to cause such drastic differences it really does add a lot of fun to the process. One thing that can cause grief is any scale, oil, or grease that can come off your hands or wasn't cleaned off the metal very well will cause issues and I can attest nothing can be more frustrating than when you cant get the process to work the same way the next time you do it like it did the previous time though. Especially if its from simply not cleaning it thoroughly. However if you pay attention to what you did and used I've found 70-75% of the time you can get what you are after though. One last thing, once this stuff has time to get mixed and marinate properly it will look just like windex glass cleaner so if you put it in a spray bottle make sure you mark accordingly. This stuff is very corrosive and just the fumes can start corroding things if its left to fume from its jug without the lid. Keep the lid on if you don't want other things to get affected. The reply was long I know but I wanted to share my findings and hope it can help those of you looking to get more out of their patina'd finishes. If you have questions feel free to ask. Thanks, Michael J.
Wow thanks for sharing Michael! It's interesting you mention how hot and cold affects the outcome. Living in Arizona, my summers create much richer colors much faster for sure. I'll have to try " Uncle Pappi's Elixir"
@@ArtfullyRogue I found if you use the old uncle pappy's soaked 0000 steal wool and cover the stainless with gives a interesting look. Let me know what you think when you try these.
What about galvanized corrugated roofing? Can you guys tell me the quickest way to rust that? Also, I saw a guy use muriatic acid and then ammonia to neutralize it and stop the rusting process. Do either if you have experience with that?
Fantastic! Thanks so much for sharing your experiments. I'm thinking of doing a large corrugated fence (8'x150'), and don't plan on sealing it - I'll just let it continue to rust. Given the large scale of the project, any tips on how to best process all those sheets?
After misting with vinegar I'll mist with water and it'll rust a lot faster. Also if you apply vinegar and water in different intervals it'll produce different colors. Great video!
I love experiments, and I love the pressed vinegar method! While making a steel planter (4'L x 2'T x 1'D) I found a method where you spray vinegar a few times (over an hour or so) then use a peroxide, vinegar, salt spray. The client wanted a cor-ten look, but in Georgia cor-ten lasts about the same amount of time as mild steel because of the humidity (and mild steel is way cheaper). I didn't want to mess with caustic chemicals because there are children and pets around. The results with the peroxide/salt/vinegar mix were great. Now I'm doing some metal 'paintings' using rust patterns for the same client. I'm loving it and am so grateful to find your channel. Thanks!
Im in the process of building some planters in the garden and also want to create a look similar to corten!!! Would love to see some phots of how yours turned out. Also what thickness steel sheet did you use. I've looked at some 3mm sheets but am a little concerned the rust will work its way all the way through very quickly!!!
I've used this method too. It works at least as well as what I'm seeing in this video from muriatic acid and peroxide, if not better. Doing several "coats" and letting it sit for a couple hours yields some pretty dark, satisfying results. However, it'll wipe right off like he says in the video, without a sealer.
Doug, thank you! I’m just a hobbyist with welding and I only ever painted stuff before. I can’t wait to try to finish something more creatively and cool like your works. You’re an awesome artist and an awesome human for helping others! Sending good karma your way. 🙂👍
I use a Vinegar, Peroxide, and salt mix in a sprayer bottle and it worked as fast as using the acid mix. I guess the positive for me is not having to handle or deal with acid. Love the videos and even more your work!
Artfully Rogue salt makes the rust patina lighter orange color as metal crystals (rust) mixes with salt crystals. But the more salt you have the more porous patina will be and more easier to break off the surface. I had to seal with 50% xylene diluted concrete sealer to preserve texture and bond better to metal surface.
Hi Doug, you are the man! I’m an architecture student studying different ways to treat steel and your videos have been great. I’m wondering what is the best way to safely clean up after using m,a.
I’ve used muriatic acid to remove mill scale, I actually submerge it since it’s smaller parts. If I don’t neutralize it, I will get some serious rust in no time. I haven’t considered leaving it for a patina. I love the idea for some future projects.
Yeah either painting or spraying on the acid then spraying on peroxide creates a quick rust. And it will continue to do its thing if you leave it for a few days, it goes darker with more color variation
FWIW, Muriatic acid is great for removing galvanizing (zinc plating) from steel. Just immerse the galvanized part in a mixture of water and acid (always add acid to water, not water to acid!) and let it sit until the galvanizing has dissolved. Always neutralize the acid with a water and baking soda rinse. Baking soda can also be used to neutralize the acid bath used to treat the part so that it's safe to dispose. Muriatic acid also removes chrome plating.
Hi, I have a newbie question, once you seal the sheet with the wood sealant. How reactive or protective is it to other chemicals if they come in contact with the material (after sealing). I want to use this technique in a hairdressers. Tha ks
Honestly, I'm not sure. I would guess if it comes into contact with any harsh chemicals, like acid or acetone etc., the clear coat would be eliminated. A paint on epoxy might be a bit more durable in a situation where chemicals might be used on a daily basis.
My daughter has experimented with your methods for the back of her wood stove wall and it is really a statement piece in her house. I'm about to do the same. You mentioned in one of your other videos that the vinegar continues to react. How do you stop it? Wipe it and then spray the laquear? or let dry and then wipe it? Does spraying the lacquer on change the color? If you don't like how it's turning out, can you wipe it off and start over?
Using a spray on clear coat will make it a bit darker. I let it dry then spray the clear coat, no wiping or it ruins the look. If you don't like it after you clear coat it, you can use acid to clean it all off or an orbital sander.
Thanks for the video- love that sun design in the steel behind you at the end. We just did a acid finish in our bathroom on the wall based on your technique- Looks so cool!
As long as you've given the mixture enough time to really secure itself to the metal then I'd rinse however I pour water over the surface as opposed to using a hose with even low pressure. Then I'll let it dry and clear coat the surface
I heated metal before and also after applying the peroxyde, and then plunge it into water to cool it fast and remove the smaller dusty rust, there are possibilities to test...
Hi Doug It looks great job, I Will certainly try It, Just a question di you think this technique can be used on bathroom Vanity steel? Do you have a tip for a strong waterproof sealer? Thanks Stefano
This process seems to work on all mild steel without mill scale. Although I haven't used it yet, I hear Penetrol works really well. It's paint additive but used by itself is a very effective sealer. RIght now I've been trying different two part auto clear coats but nothing jumps out as being great over rust without applying multiple coats
You can get an instant reaction using vinegar and peroxide but in my opinion its not as cool looking. It lacks depth and color when vinegar is used as opposed to acid.
.... and to take the process one stage further ..... if you like grey to black shades in your finish you can change the yellow/orange/red rust into ferric tannate which is a relatively durable grey to black finish that will not rust further. I commonly use it on hammers and axes to get the 'old patina' back after grinding or other repair work. What you need to do is submerge the piece in a tannic acid solution. Now you could go online and buy it [not cheap] or, as I do, make your own solution from the common brown tea bag... well, quite a few tea bags actually. You could also use oak bark, acorns, walnuts shucks, - anything that is high in natural tannins. If you can't wait use a packet of new tea bags. I keep all my used tea bags till have enough to cover the bottom of a large pan to about 3" deep. Add about twice this volume of water and set it to a slow boil for an hour. Squeeze out the bags and filter off the liquid and that is the tannin solution made. After going through the rapid rusting process, put your nicely rusted object in the solution and simmer for an hour. The object comes out darkened and a bit mucky, but I clean it off with 0000 grade wire wool and after that you can oil it wax it or use a spray sealer. The tannic acid will only work on rust, not on bare steel, though it will turn bare steel a pleasing light grey. It is only a very weak acid so won't burn you, but it will give you black hands so wear rubber gloves. You can re-use the solution a few times till it starts to loose its effect. Have a play with it, its really easy to do.
Can I use the muriatic acid and peroxide on stainless steel sheet metal, not to rust per se, but to give it an interesting finish? Also should I neutralize it before sealing it? Thanks!
Cool doors. A respirator is a must with the muriatic acid - way more important then the gloves. It's easier to wash your hands then your lungs. As someone with lung damage I had to mention this.
What about painted metal? I have 2 white color plaques I want to rust a bit on edges for a craft project. Paint is hard to find that will adhere to metal. Thank you.
The best paint for metal is an oil based paint. And the metal must be cleaned with alcohol or mineral spirits, then lightly sanded with sand paper then cleaned again and then you're ready for painting
Thanks for the video. Others say if you clear coat ONLY, the coating will eventually start to peel. They suggest using Flood PENETROL then clear coat with oil based, not water based (water over oil doesn't stick). Your thought on this?
I've found a salt and vinegar spray followed with a peroxide spray works very fast as well. Sprinkling lots of salt on the metal can also create pits if desired, but it takes a day or more. I love your videos and products!
For the most part stainless won't rust. However, because I've built projects and didn't want them to rust, somehow I've managed to still find a way. It's not easy, but you need to use a grinder flap wheel on mild steel so the steel "powder" embeds itself into the flap wheel. Then use that same flap wheel on stainless. The steel powder, transfers to the stainless and its the steel powder that makes it look like the stainless is rusting. You're working with something very small so another way I managed to get stainless to rust was to, again grind or sand the stainless to "open the pores" so to speak, then place the stainless in a bag an drop in a rag with some pool acid, then close the bag. Over time the acid will begin to rust the stainless. I did this with an old stainless milk carton. Hope this helps.
Very interesting... After your confession about your year old lemon juice I’m going to assume you didn’t squeeze any lemons. But oh my God, l almost choked on my coffee when you made your “Sound effect” after the lemon juice fail! I also, loved the way you used a work glove 🧤 to make your pointer! Too funny!
Hi! Nice video. I want to make a backsplash with galvanized metal sheets and rust them. Does muriatic acid and peroxide works on galvanized steel? Thanks!
Thank you🤗🤗...If i use deft spray...is it will prevent the dust from peeling, liquefy or seep on the ground ? and does it keep it from being rusted anymore?
I have a tip . I 've been rusting metal for quite a while now and if i get a chance i will upload a video . A light layer of muriatic acid like you did and when spraying the hydrogen peroxide wait till it stops bubbling or that white foam disappears it should take less than a minute and then tilt the metal sheet so that it runs off the metal , it doesnt have to be completely . Respray the hydrogen peroxide and it will accelerate the oxidation quite dramatically. Repeat this 2 more times and you will notice a browner metal rich in oxygen . Tilt the metal so that it runs off and it will start drying in minutes giving you a beautiful red and light yellow rust that looks beautiful in furniture pieces. This takes less than 30 minutes
Thank you so much for this video! Would the vinegar pressed method work on galvanized corrugated metal? Got a bathroom project coming up after the holidays and would like to use it for a wainscoting.
Thank you so much for the tips! I've been looking for a way to consistently do rust bluing on steel parts like tools and firearms, and have expended a lot of resources and time into it, so you saved me a lot of future research and money.
I have used vinegar and peroxide on cleaned metal. I'm definitely not a chemist but it's my understanding that the acids (muriatic or vinegar) are acting as etchants to clean the surface and the peroxide is the source of abundant oxygen ions to make iron oxide (rust). I have used lacquer as sealants in the past but found that in some cases the rusting process continues even if I've applied a baking soda wash to neutralize the surface. I'm now using Flood Penetrol to neutralize the rust and seal in one step.
Steve Ulrich I'll look into Flood Penetrol for sure. The door that's in my shop was sealed with Deft a year ago and I've not seen any real noticeable changes but I'm in Phoenix where humidity is low. I'm curious how it would do on the east coast. luckily I've not had any east coast client call to say their door rusted apart yet☺
Gulf coast, Texas. Humidity? we got it! I was using Deft's (or Minwax) brushing lacquer product. The finish lasted for several months indoors but eventually developed a light dusting of surface rust. A quick swipe with steel wool and another coat or two or lacquer and called it good. The Penetrol has a slight sheen to it. Dries slowly (hours) but can be wiped on with a rag with little chance of runs. It's meant to be an additive to paint to aid in use on metals outdoors BUT it can also be used stand alone. Give it a try. Like your channel. thanks!
Hi, will this work on stainless steel? I have a kettle I'd like to age and finding it difficult to get the information I need to just do this as a home project. Thanks in advance :)
Hi Doug, I'm in the process of using your White Vinegar process for rusting some corrugated material for a client project. The vinegar works really fast and I'm pleased with the results so far. My question as to do with "stopping the process". Do you rinse your metal with water on other solution prior to applying your top coat sealer? Thanks for your informative videos.
On my doors i simply apply the clear coat because i dont want water seeping into the interior. Something like the water feature I build, yes I'll rinse with water first then clear coat, but with the water feature, I'm using acid and peroxide which is more aggressive than vinegar
Good information neighbor.. I’m seeking to put a patina on galvanized conduit so if you have any ideas or can steer me in another direction I would appreciate... thanks
Thanks for sharing. I've been trying to find a way to patina metals . I'm working on a new idea to screen print signs to make a bed but do not want to use valuable old ones. This helps greatly.
You should consider using Everbrite UV Protective Clear Coat to seal rusted metals. It is a flexible coating unlike a lacquer which will ultimately crack and peel off as the lacquere will not expand and contract with the hot and cold weather. Very important to neutralise the surface of any acids and ensure BONE DRY before applying any coating. Otherwise the steel will continue to rust under the coating - and this will cuse any coating to lose adherence. A spray or wipe down with acetone is also recommended before applying the first coat.
Great advice and I've been using the muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide method with fantastic results. I am a woodworker and make wooden cradled panels for artists. One of my clients asked me to cut strips of metal and rust them for her. She loved the results I got. One question though. Do you store the muriatic acid in a pump sprayer? I left some in a spray bottle but it ruined the spray bottle right away. Just wondering if there is a certain kind of sprayer you use for that purpose. Thanks so much for your videos!
I forgot to mention that I find heat to be an advantage. Where I live, it gets cloudy and cold for about 1/2 the year. I tried rusting on a cloudy "cool" day and didn't get the same results I did the week before when it was in the hot sun. I just tried it again today and since I don't have the weather for heat, I put a space heater on the metal after I sprayed it. It's turning out SWEET. I think it might help.
I've ruined several pump bottles in the past. Now I just make a point of clearing the pump portion of the bottle directly after using it. I've been able to use the same bottle now for about a year
Heat works great! I live in Arizona, so in the summer I rust my sheets nearly in one day as opposed to our winters which it may take several days to get the level of rust I desire
Great spot Doug! One question..maybe two. Do you use anything to "stop" the corrosive action before you seal the metal? Also, do you rinse with water before sealing? Planning on doing a tin roof. Will the typical galvanizing slow/prevent the process?
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 Deft clear coat for wood also works for metal. Depends what your doing it on. I’ve done a similar technique on wood; prime it first, 2nd step; (1-2 coats paint depending on desired look) 3rd step: metal flake paint placed in random areas …1st coat dry 2nd coat WET then apply this patina spray recipe into a spray bottle: 1/2 inch of salt at bottom of spray bottle, then pour in 16 oz. Hydrogen peroxide then top off with distilled vinegar just to the neck of spray bottle so that there is some room to shake the salt into the mixture. Okay now that we’ve made our patina concoction apply that to the 2nd coat of WET metal paint…leave on until you get the desired effect and put 2 coats of clear coat on. Easy Peasy…my directions probably sound intimidating 😜
I built cabinet doors with 26 gauge cold rolled sheet steel as the raised panel. I rusted it with the acid/peroxide method and then 4 coats of deft spray lacquer. Looks great but after a couple weeks i now have some of the rust flaking off. I'm wondering if i should have used some kind of neutralizer before the lacquer? Any suggestions?
@@ArtfullyRogue Muriatic acid brushed on to Dawn cleaned steel. Sometimes sanded. Then hydrogen peroxide sprayed on. I have found that rusting steel is like a box of chocolate .... I've seen that sometimes the hydrogen peroxide seems to puddle and not bite but it creates some beautiful flowing patterns. These are the areas that flake. I also rusted the same way, some roof panels out of new corrugated steel. I sprayed them off with water the same day that they were rusted to neutralize them. they haven't flaked and have been outside (in Colorado) but no lacquer. They have not flaked. I have to admit I'm not very patient and have sprayed lacquer the morning after rusting the metal. To make matters more complicated, some of the puddled areas haven't flaked! Is there a way for me to attach photos? Thanks Dude, I apreciate you responding!
Do you think this method would work on tin plated steel? I bought some ceiling tiles that I need to antique to look a little closer to some "actual" antique ceiling tiles. Also...what would happen if you wanted come color from paint in there too? Think that would work?
You might need to rough up the tin with sandpaper to remove the protective layer. To get color, you can use metal stains or do a light dusting of enamel spray
I often use Deft spray clear coat or I'll use an automotive two spray on,,, I forget the brand at the moment but I'll check tomorrow when I'm at the shop
man, this is awesome... thank you so much for this video! I'm a student in architecture and really wanna put metal on some of my walls but have no money to pay someone to do it. so I will do this on some cheap metal myself :) thank you!
Quick question. I'm rusting a metal sign, roll sheet steel with a design cut out. But it has vinyl lettering on the bottom. Will the vinegar peel the vinyl?
@@ArtfullyRogue thank you. I wish you could send a picture of this sign, because it is absolutely beautiful. It's for a pizza place in Southwestern Michigan
I'm about to try this on some bedside table draw fronts i'm making, tossing up between just vinegar or using the muriatic acid and peroxide approach. do you need to neutralise either once you get your desired result, or do you just go straight to the clear coat?
typically once the item is dry, yes I'll go straight to the clear coat. Rinsing the vinegar too early can remove it. Whereas rinsing the acid/peroxide is fine at any stage
Not only good information, but very well presented. I subscribed. I noticed the rail for the door behind you was not rusted. I am thinking of rusting my barn door rail, but is there a reason you would caution against doing that? Thank you again for the great video!
Rusting the rail would be fine. As long as you avoid surface flaking so as the door travels the rust stays where it's suppose to and not end up on the floor
These methods are great! Can I use any of these methods over stainless steel? I have used Lysol toilet bowl cleaner with steel wool left on top of it on unsanded stainless in the past and it’s worked pretty well but I would love to use something more natural if I can. Thanks.
Hello John, Can't say I've ever done a gun restore before however I've heard of using gun bluing . I would suggest checking out video on bluing to get the best info. Bluing is something I still want to try but haven't yet
Hi Doug, I am looking to do a large outdoors bar sign, I have two questions if you could help? What percentage of peroxide do I need, I can only seem to find 3% food grade. Secondly I am wanting to clear coat it but loved the copper sulfate but worried about the reaction to the lacquer! using the Muriatic acid and Peroxide and vinegar will the clear coat work ok?
Hi David, I use the 3% peroxide as it readily available. I either spray or brush on the acid then spray on the peroxide. And other making the rust a little darker, I've not not any issues with using clear coat on the peroxide/acid method or the copper sulfate.
@@ArtfullyRogue Thanks for the advice Doug, really appreciate the help. Your work looks amazing, got a crazy deadline to get these bar signs done but will post you a few pics upon completion.
Good job! Thank you for that! Very familiar with the message, however, the way you demonstrated, was excellent and highly comprehensible. Thanks for teaching people! I have other message I use as well. But yours are awesome. Keep up the great work. Stay well and have a beautiful day.👍🙏
Sorry folks I forgot this link -Mitchell uses offcuts of copper wire-might be something to try --ua-cam.com/video/trGH5MfIfWQ-/v-deo.html-, note- some guys have mentioned humidity-this may well be a local factor on how good methods work where you are.
Yes actually I have! :) I figured if it would dye eggs then why not try metal. For blue green patinas, check out Sculpt Nouveau, they have a blue green stain that I find works well
@@ArtfullyRogue i really appreciate you actually answering. I'm sorry if I'm taking up your time. I can't really find anything about doing this with zinc. I'm refurbishing a beautiful dovetail joined box that's a family heirloom. It's missing some carriage bolts. I don't want them to be bright shiny silver, lol. Do you have any videos on how to do that?
@@ArtfullyRogue if that's what it would take to get a natural patina on it, than yes. I'd like to be able to just patina the zinc without having to grind it down.
@@MSANTHR0P3 you can remove zinc by soaking the hardware in muriatic acid for about 10-15 minutes. Once down to raw steel, you can rust or add a metal patina
Thanks Rogue - I just watched a video that uses a solution of peroxide and a small amount of vinegar mixed. It was not as fast as the muriatic acid but faster than vinegar alone.
You're very welcome! Yeah used the vinegar/peroxide method for a short time but them stumbled on the acid/peroxide method and now thats my preference for sure because of the fast acting result
Just finished an art piece based on your techniques. It turned out really cool! It isn't perfect, but for a first attempt with a couple of my own technique modifications, I'm pretty happy with it. If there's a way to send you a photo, I will. Please let me know. Thanks for the knowledge! ✌️👽
Need a little help.. I want to paint an American flag on a 48” x 36” piece of steel and then incorporate a substantial rust affect. Will I get the rust affect if the steel is painted?
I suppose it will depend on the type of paint you use. If it's a metal stain, then you should get some rust penetration. If you're using an enamel I doubt it will get to the metal enough to make a difference.
Does anyone know how I could possibly get a really dark almost black rust on a truck trying to build a true patina truck and I love the black rust but I can’t think of something to press on the panels for 48 hours
Tin is a little tricky because it depends on the materials used to make that particular tin. I find that many times, if I can sand the metal and exposed the metal below any 'protective' coating then I can use the vinegar or acid/peroxide treatment
Hi Doug thanks for all your tips. I have a vintage Simmons metal dresser sanded down ready to rust out. What would be the effect of just wiping vinegar onto it? Versus spraying? And how long do I have to wait before I clear coat? Let me know bro Great stuff you have here!
Hi there Mark, wiping the vinegar on has a cool effect actually and the longer you leave it on, the darker it will go. Once its reaches a point where you're happy, clear coat it. Keep in mind it will darken a bit more with the clear coat. I would also suggest testing on a sample first.
Thank you so much for this informative video ! It's got me thinking of some different ways to artfully finish the exterior of a Tiny home. I was wondering about using this kind of a finishing method on an exterior made with SIP's, having a Metal exterior component. I was wondering how added exposure to the elements would affect the surface of the rusted metal. I guess the clear coat is the question. I'm wondering how durable the finish would be? Do you think a clear epoxy finish would be a better long term solution over the whole project ? My biggest concern would be with future rust of a deeper nature. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated ! Again, thank you for sharing your great video and any future feedback you may have !
I've been playing chemist with all these chemicals in different ratio's as well as mixing and matching for some time now. Being a purist I wanted to see if I could manipulate the patina to become whatever color or intensity I wanted at that given time for that given project. The mixture that I found works the best and gives a wide array of colors from greenish turquoise to reds, to yellows, to purples.......you get the picture, was something I've named "Uncle Pappi's Elixir"......Don't ask me why I named it that, maybe the fumes got to me a little more than usual that day....lol. Anyways, in a 2 gallon plastic jug (something you'd put ice tea in that you'd buy at the Dollar General) cover the bottom 3-4 inches with epsom salt, you can't really put to much of the epsom in I've found other than if you put to much in all of it won't dissolve. I have found to little epsom though won't give as good as results in how it works. If you find all the salt having a hard time completely dissolving pour some of it out into another container and top it off with distilled water. As you use the solution you can pour what you poured off back in and it works fine. Next to that add 1/2-3/4 cup of muriatic acid (important you add the muriatic at this stage and not at the end. Adding to the jug after you have already put the vinegar and distilled water in can and will cause it to boil violently out of the jug and it would be a bad deal getting this on you or in your face. Always add acids to a formula they are called in first before any other liquid.) 1 gallon of white vinegar, 1 24-32oz bottle of hydrogen peroxide, and top the rest off with distilled water (distilled water actually gives better results than just using tap or even regular bottled water). I then take a handful of scrap copper whether it be tubing or sheet and cut it up so it can fit in the jugs opening. Make sure you clean the copper well getting any grime, oils or grease off it before adding. Put the lid on the jug, shake well and let everything get happy together overnight. I have a 55 gallon drum I split and added grates to sit smaller items on and you can either pour the solution directly on whatever it is your patina'ing or you can add to a spray bottle and apply by spritzing. The important thing is be generous. You want complete saturation. At this point you can press it like you showed in the video with another piece of steel or I've gotten some awesome results using some hybrid metals like magnesium, zinc, brass, silver, tin, cast, etc layered between the metal being patina'd and something heavy. Aluminum just overpowers the whole process and turns everything black. The sweet spot leaving it pressed seems to be 24 hrs and at that point depending on how intense or the colors you are trying to bring out are start spritzing the metal alternating between distilled water and the solution letting it completely dry between each spritzing. It seems any patina formed within 48 hrs of the first application just hasn't had enough time to bite and can either flake off easy or wipe off even when sealed. Temperature and humidity play a huge roll on both the colors you get and the amount of time it takes to get a good etched in patina. The warmer and more humid the heavier the patina and the more vivid the range of colors are. The process also happens in half the time. I live in Montana and this process takes twice as long in the winter than in the summer but I can't get the intensity of colors in the winter either like I do in the summer. Another neat look this mixture makes is it forms crystals withing the patina and rust from the epsom salt solidifying after it dries. I've tried using every other salt you can buy and none of them work as well rusting or recrystalize like the epsome does. I have kept a note book documenting temp, humidity, if I've used a different brand in the chemicals I used in the solution or if I may have changed the mix ratio slightly, tried a different application, tried adding something or omitting something. You get the point. All of us know how to rust things and do it quick if needed. I however wanted to see if I could do what mother nature can do, know what it was that I did to make it and know I did it without using dyes, paints, oils, or synthetics that often truly look fake or like they were painted. Once the stuff is applied you can speed the process up and get a more intense look by covering with some plastic sheeting to keep it from drying out so fast the first few days will speed things along giving a more intense finish. When you figure out what all the different environmental factors or things you can do to cause such drastic differences it really does add a lot of fun to the process. One thing that can cause grief is any scale, oil, or grease that can come off your hands or wasn't cleaned off the metal very well will cause issues and I can attest nothing can be more frustrating than when you cant get the process to work the same way the next time you do it like it did the previous time though. Especially if its from simply not cleaning it thoroughly. However if you pay attention to what you did and used I've found 70-75% of the time you can get what you are after though. One last thing, once this stuff has time to get mixed and marinate properly it will look just like windex glass cleaner so if you put it in a spray bottle make sure you mark accordingly. This stuff is very corrosive and just the fumes can start corroding things if its left to fume from its jug without the lid. Keep the lid on if you don't want other things to get affected. The reply was long I know but I wanted to share my findings and hope it can help those of you looking to get more out of their patina'd finishes. If you have questions feel free to ask. Thanks, Michael J.
Wow thanks for sharing Michael! It's interesting you mention how hot and cold affects the outcome. Living in Arizona, my summers create much richer colors much faster for sure. I'll have to try " Uncle Pappi's Elixir"
I meant to ask, have you found anything that will rust stainless?
@@ArtfullyRogue I found if you use the old uncle pappy's soaked 0000 steal wool and cover the stainless with gives a interesting look. Let me know what you think when you try these.
What about galvanized corrugated roofing? Can you guys tell me the quickest way to rust that? Also, I saw a guy use muriatic acid and then ammonia to neutralize it and stop the rusting process. Do either if you have experience with that?
Fantastic! Thanks so much for sharing your experiments. I'm thinking of doing a large corrugated fence (8'x150'), and don't plan on sealing it - I'll just let it continue to rust. Given the large scale of the project, any tips on how to best process all those sheets?
After misting with vinegar I'll mist with water and it'll rust a lot faster. Also if you apply vinegar and water in different intervals it'll produce different colors. Great video!
I appreciate the extra tips Lee :)
Lee Sisson that’s awesome thanks
I love experiments, and I love the pressed vinegar method! While making a steel planter (4'L x 2'T x 1'D) I found a method where you spray vinegar a few times (over an hour or so) then use a peroxide, vinegar, salt spray. The client wanted a cor-ten look, but in Georgia cor-ten lasts about the same amount of time as mild steel because of the humidity (and mild steel is way cheaper). I didn't want to mess with caustic chemicals because there are children and pets around. The results with the peroxide/salt/vinegar mix were great. Now I'm doing some metal 'paintings' using rust patterns for the same client. I'm loving it and am so grateful to find your channel. Thanks!
Im in the process of building some planters in the garden and also want to create a look similar to corten!!! Would love to see some phots of how yours turned out. Also what thickness steel sheet did you use. I've looked at some 3mm sheets but am a little concerned the rust will work its way all the way through very quickly!!!
I've used this method too. It works at least as well as what I'm seeing in this video from muriatic acid and peroxide, if not better. Doing several "coats" and letting it sit for a couple hours yields some pretty dark, satisfying results. However, it'll wipe right off like he says in the video, without a sealer.
Doug, thank you! I’m just a hobbyist with welding and I only ever painted stuff before. I can’t wait to try to finish something more creatively and cool like your works. You’re an awesome artist and an awesome human for helping others! Sending good karma your way. 🙂👍
Thanks Gary greatly appreciated😊😊
Just found your channel today. I was needing to fast rust something I made for the wife. THANK YOU BRO!!
I love your channel. I subscribed.
Totally appreciate the sub browill9
I use a Vinegar, Peroxide, and salt mix in a sprayer bottle and it worked as fast as using the acid mix. I guess the positive for me is not having to handle or deal with acid. Love the videos and even more your work!
Thanks Dan
The misspelled "Vinger" is my absolute favorite, especially with the high quality zoom: 3:10
Thanks Doug!
Hi Doug,
My method is similar and works very well. I use mainly vinegar with the addition of a little peroxide and a bit of salt. It works a treat!
I've actually never had salt do much for me. I might have to play around with it again
Artfully Rogue salt makes the rust patina lighter orange color as metal crystals (rust) mixes with salt crystals. But the more salt you have the more porous patina will be and more easier to break off the surface.
I had to seal with 50% xylene diluted concrete sealer to preserve texture and bond better to metal surface.
Do you get teal with this?
Hi Doug, you are the man! I’m an architecture student studying different ways to treat steel and your videos have been great. I’m wondering what is the best way to safely clean up after using m,a.
dilute with water. After using the acid, I neutralize it with water.
I’ve used muriatic acid to remove mill scale, I actually submerge it since it’s smaller parts. If I don’t neutralize it, I will get some serious rust in no time. I haven’t considered leaving it for a patina. I love the idea for some future projects.
Yeah either painting or spraying on the acid then spraying on peroxide creates a quick rust. And it will continue to do its thing if you leave it for a few days, it goes darker with more color variation
When I get the color like, before I seal it I tend to wash it with baking soda to neutralize the acid. Then apply a sealer.
FWIW, Muriatic acid is great for removing galvanizing (zinc plating) from steel. Just immerse the galvanized part in a mixture of water and acid (always add acid to water, not water to acid!) and let it sit until the galvanizing has dissolved. Always neutralize the acid with a water and baking soda rinse. Baking soda can also be used to neutralize the acid bath used to treat the part so that it's safe to dispose.
Muriatic acid also removes chrome plating.
@capt_beefheart4159 I use this method to remove the zinc from screws and bolts I want to match my rusted sheet metal. Good tip, thanks
Hi,
I have a newbie question, once you seal the sheet with the wood sealant. How reactive or protective is it to other chemicals if they come in contact with the material (after sealing).
I want to use this technique in a hairdressers.
Tha ks
Honestly, I'm not sure. I would guess if it comes into contact with any harsh chemicals, like acid or acetone etc., the clear coat would be eliminated. A paint on epoxy might be a bit more durable in a situation where chemicals might be used on a daily basis.
Thanks Doug, thanks for sharing your tips. I certainly will try a few of the techniques.
Scott Turner thanks for watching Scott
My daughter has experimented with your methods for the back of her wood stove wall and it is really a statement piece in her house. I'm about to do the same. You mentioned in one of your other videos that the vinegar continues to react. How do you stop it? Wipe it and then spray the laquear? or let dry and then wipe it? Does spraying the lacquer on change the color? If you don't like how it's turning out, can you wipe it off and start over?
Using a spray on clear coat will make it a bit darker. I let it dry then spray the clear coat, no wiping or it ruins the look. If you don't like it after you clear coat it, you can use acid to clean it all off or an orbital sander.
Thanks for the video- love that sun design in the steel behind you at the end. We just did a acid finish in our bathroom on the wall based on your technique- Looks so cool!
Very cool, I'm glad the video helped out
Hi after the process Are use vinegar peroxide sea salt mixture do you recommend to rinse it off before you clear coat it
As long as you've given the mixture enough time to really secure itself to the metal then I'd rinse however I pour water over the surface as opposed to using a hose with even low pressure. Then I'll let it dry and clear coat the surface
I am rebuilding a 72C10. I am wanting to add chain to the truck. I will buy new chain and use your advice to give it a rusted look.
Cool, I bet that'll look amazing
You can also add blowpipe heating to give color variations and faster rusting
I'll have to check that out for sure thanks Claudio
I heated metal before and also after applying the peroxyde, and then plunge it into water to cool it fast and remove the smaller dusty rust, there are possibilities to test...
Hi Doug It looks great job,
I Will certainly try It,
Just a question di you think this technique can be used on bathroom Vanity steel? Do you have a tip for a strong waterproof sealer?
Thanks Stefano
This process seems to work on all mild steel without mill scale. Although I haven't used it yet, I hear Penetrol works really well. It's paint additive but used by itself is a very effective sealer. RIght now I've been trying different two part auto clear coats but nothing jumps out as being great over rust without applying multiple coats
Thanks Doug i Will try to find Penetrol in local market as im in Italy.
Curious, can you leave areas protected to create patterns? How would you do so?
@shaynecoventry8894 I've used painters tape and the removable rubber spray. It works well
Painting the negative space with wax has been a staple of engraving since the 1600s.
The peroxide catalyst is clever. Does vinegar do anything with peroxide?
You can get an instant reaction using vinegar and peroxide but in my opinion its not as cool looking. It lacks depth and color when vinegar is used as opposed to acid.
.... and to take the process one stage further ..... if you like grey to black shades in your finish you can change the yellow/orange/red rust into ferric tannate which is a relatively durable grey to black finish that will not rust further. I commonly use it on hammers and axes to get the 'old patina' back after grinding or other repair work.
What you need to do is submerge the piece in a tannic acid solution. Now you could go online and buy it [not cheap] or, as I do, make your own solution from the common brown tea bag... well, quite a few tea bags actually. You could also use oak bark, acorns, walnuts shucks, - anything that is high in natural tannins. If you can't wait use a packet of new tea bags. I keep all my used tea bags till have enough to cover the bottom of a large pan to about 3" deep. Add about twice this volume of water and set it to a slow boil for an hour. Squeeze out the bags and filter off the liquid and that is the tannin solution made. After going through the rapid rusting process, put your nicely rusted object in the solution and simmer for an hour. The object comes out darkened and a bit mucky, but I clean it off with 0000 grade wire wool and after that you can oil it wax it or use a spray sealer.
The tannic acid will only work on rust, not on bare steel, though it will turn bare steel a pleasing light grey. It is only a very weak acid so won't burn you, but it will give you black hands so wear rubber gloves. You can re-use the solution a few times till it starts to loose its effect. Have a play with it, its really easy to do.
Can I use the muriatic acid and peroxide on stainless steel sheet metal, not to rust per se, but to give it an interesting finish? Also should I neutralize it before sealing it? Thanks!
I havent had much luck with it on stainless
Cool doors. A respirator is a must with the muriatic acid - way more important then the gloves. It's easier to wash your hands then your lungs. As someone with lung damage I had to mention this.
I hear you on the respirator, I've made a more focused effort to wear it when dealing with acid
What about painted metal? I have 2 white color plaques I want to rust a bit on edges for a craft project. Paint is hard to find that will adhere to metal. Thank you.
The best paint for metal is an oil based paint. And the metal must be cleaned with alcohol or mineral spirits, then lightly sanded with sand paper then cleaned again and then you're ready for painting
Thank you so much! This is exactly what I needed. I tried it and it worked perfectly!!
glad it helped
Thanks for the video. Others say if you clear coat ONLY, the coating will eventually start to peel. They suggest using Flood PENETROL then clear coat with oil based, not water based (water over oil doesn't stick). Your thought on this?
I've never used penetrol but also haven't had any peeling issues to date that I can think of
I've found a salt and vinegar spray followed with a peroxide spray works very fast as well. Sprinkling lots of salt on the metal can also create pits if desired, but it takes a day or more. I love your videos and products!
Thanks for the suggestion! I've tried salt in the past but didn't really get much result. I'll have to give it another go and be a bit more patient
What kind of salt do you use?
Any tips on rusting stainless ?? I want to rust steel wedding bands but I can only find them in stainless
For the most part stainless won't rust. However, because I've built projects and didn't want them to rust, somehow I've managed to still find a way. It's not easy, but you need to use a grinder flap wheel on mild steel so the steel "powder" embeds itself into the flap wheel. Then use that same flap wheel on stainless. The steel powder, transfers to the stainless and its the steel powder that makes it look like the stainless is rusting. You're working with something very small so another way I managed to get stainless to rust was to, again grind or sand the stainless to "open the pores" so to speak, then place the stainless in a bag an drop in a rag with some pool acid, then close the bag. Over time the acid will begin to rust the stainless. I did this with an old stainless milk carton. Hope this helps.
Great results !!!! I used vinegar, peroxide and the acid .. great results !!!
Very cool. Rusting metal results in some amazing textures and colors depending on the method used.
Do you need to clean the surface before applying the clear coat?
Once its dried I usually just clear coat it depending on the process I use. When I use the acid/peroxide, I'll rinse the project before clear coating
Very interesting... After your confession about your year old lemon juice I’m going to assume you didn’t squeeze any lemons. But oh my God, l almost choked on my coffee when you made your “Sound effect” after the lemon juice fail! I also, loved the way you used a work glove 🧤 to make your pointer! Too funny!
No lemons squeezed...at least not by my hands :) I used the lemon juice in the bottle
Hi! Nice video. I want to make a backsplash with galvanized metal sheets and rust them. Does muriatic acid and peroxide works on galvanized steel? Thanks!
Sorry for the delayed response, you would need to remove the galvanization first before you can rust the metal
Do you neutralize them all with water before the clearcoat? Do you brush the flakes off at all? Or coat it over the powdery rust? thanks!
I usually just spray the clear coat once the surface is dry. I'll brush of the flakes only if I'm want that look otherwise I'll spray right over them
@@ArtfullyRogue awesome thanks for sharing!
Thank you🤗🤗...If i use deft spray...is it will prevent the dust from peeling, liquefy or seep on the ground ? and does it keep it from being rusted anymore?
Once you spray the rust it will slow the process down but yes it does help keep it from peeling or seeping onto the ground
I have a tip . I 've been rusting metal for quite a while now and if i get a chance i will upload a video . A light layer of muriatic acid like you did and when spraying the hydrogen peroxide wait till it stops bubbling or that white foam disappears it should take less than a minute and then tilt the metal sheet so that it runs off the metal , it doesnt have to be completely . Respray the hydrogen peroxide and it will accelerate the oxidation quite dramatically. Repeat this 2 more times and you will notice a browner metal rich in oxygen . Tilt the metal so that it runs off and it will start drying in minutes giving you a beautiful red and light yellow rust that looks beautiful in furniture pieces. This takes less than 30 minutes
Thanks for the tip Jose
QUESTION - I was going to use corrugated steel. once I use the acid and peroxide. how do I stop the rusting once I get the color I want? thanks
I typically use a spray on automotive clear coat
@@ArtfullyRogue cool thanks
Thank you so much for this video! Would the vinegar pressed method work on galvanized corrugated metal? Got a bathroom project coming up after the holidays and would like to use it for a wainscoting.
In order to rust anything galvanized, you'll need to remove the galvanization that protects the steel from rusting
Thank you so much for the tips! I've been looking for a way to consistently do rust bluing on steel parts like tools and firearms, and have expended a lot of resources and time into it, so you saved me a lot of future research and money.
My pleasure Matt glad it was useful
I have used vinegar and peroxide on cleaned metal. I'm definitely not a chemist but it's my understanding that the acids (muriatic or vinegar) are acting as etchants to clean the surface and the peroxide is the source of abundant oxygen ions to make iron oxide (rust). I have used lacquer as sealants in the past but found that in some cases the rusting process continues even if I've applied a baking soda wash to neutralize the surface. I'm now using Flood Penetrol to neutralize the rust and seal in one step.
Steve Ulrich I'll look into Flood Penetrol for sure. The door that's in my shop was sealed with Deft a year ago and I've not seen any real noticeable changes but I'm in Phoenix where humidity is low. I'm curious how it would do on the east coast. luckily I've not had any east coast client call to say their door rusted apart yet☺
Gulf coast, Texas. Humidity? we got it! I was using Deft's (or Minwax) brushing lacquer product. The finish lasted for several months indoors but eventually developed a light dusting of surface rust. A quick swipe with steel wool and another coat or two or lacquer and called it good. The Penetrol has a slight sheen to it. Dries slowly (hours) but can be wiped on with a rag with little chance of runs. It's meant to be an additive to paint to aid in use on metals outdoors BUT it can also be used stand alone. Give it a try. Like your channel. thanks!
Hi, will this work on stainless steel? I have a kettle I'd like to age and finding it difficult to get the information I need to just do this as a home project. Thanks in advance :)
I haven't found anything that will rust stainless in the same manner
How do u think the Deft product would work on a fire pit?
Not sure it can endure any extreme heat
Hi Doug, I'm in the process of using your White Vinegar process for rusting some corrugated material for a client project. The vinegar works really fast and I'm pleased with the results so far. My question as to do with "stopping the process". Do you rinse your metal with water on other solution prior to applying your top coat sealer? Thanks for your informative videos.
On my doors i simply apply the clear coat because i dont want water seeping into the interior. Something like the water feature I build, yes I'll rinse with water first then clear coat, but with the water feature, I'm using acid and peroxide which is more aggressive than vinegar
Good information neighbor.. I’m seeking to put a patina on galvanized conduit so if you have any ideas or can steer me in another direction I would appreciate... thanks
Just grind off the galvanization and you'll have no problems getting the patina look you want
Do I need to press metal on metal(vinegar pressed method) ? Or can I use another thing to press? Like wood, plastic, stone etc?
You can use whatever you like as long as it prevents evaporation.
Thanks for sharing. I've been trying to find a way to patina metals . I'm working on a new idea to screen print signs to make a bed but do not want to use valuable old ones. This helps greatly.
Sounds great Frank
....hi, brilliant stuff.. can I just check with you, what kind of vinegar are you using..? thanks...
You should consider using Everbrite UV Protective Clear Coat to seal rusted metals. It is a flexible coating unlike a lacquer which will ultimately crack and peel off as the lacquere will not expand and contract with the hot and cold weather. Very important to neutralise the surface of any acids and ensure BONE DRY before applying any coating. Otherwise the steel will continue to rust under the coating - and this will cuse any coating to lose adherence. A spray or wipe down with acetone is also recommended before applying the first coat.
When I clean cost it , should I sand the clear coat with an ultra fine sand paper that is wet and clear cost again ? Kinda like a car paint job ??
You can, however I've starting using a two part automotive clear coat and one coat seems to hold really well
Great advice and I've been using the muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide method with fantastic results. I am a woodworker and make wooden cradled panels for artists. One of my clients asked me to cut strips of metal and rust them for her. She loved the results I got. One question though. Do you store the muriatic acid in a pump sprayer? I left some in a spray bottle but it ruined the spray bottle right away. Just wondering if there is a certain kind of sprayer you use for that purpose. Thanks so much for your videos!
I forgot to mention that I find heat to be an advantage. Where I live, it gets cloudy and cold for about 1/2 the year. I tried rusting on a cloudy "cool" day and didn't get the same results I did the week before when it was in the hot sun. I just tried it again today and since I don't have the weather for heat, I put a space heater on the metal after I sprayed it. It's turning out SWEET. I think it might help.
I've ruined several pump bottles in the past. Now I just make a point of clearing the pump portion of the bottle directly after using it. I've been able to use the same bottle now for about a year
Heat works great! I live in Arizona, so in the summer I rust my sheets nearly in one day as opposed to our winters which it may take several days to get the level of rust I desire
@@ArtfullyRogue awesome! Thanks!
So is really rusted or is it creating a coating??
The longer I leave it the deeper it goes.
do you wash off the metal before you seal it?
Not usually. I just spray the clear coat straight in once I get the look I want
Great spot Doug! One question..maybe two. Do you use anything to "stop" the corrosive action before you seal the metal? Also, do you rinse with water before sealing? Planning on doing a tin roof. Will the typical galvanizing slow/prevent the process?
I typically rinse with water and let dry then apply a spray on clear coat
@@ArtfullyRogue which brand?
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 Deft clear coat for wood also works for metal.
Depends what your doing it on. I’ve done a similar technique on wood; prime it first, 2nd step; (1-2 coats paint depending on desired look) 3rd step: metal flake paint placed in random areas …1st coat dry 2nd coat WET then apply this patina spray recipe into a spray bottle: 1/2 inch of salt at bottom of spray bottle, then pour in 16 oz. Hydrogen peroxide then top off with distilled vinegar just to the neck of spray bottle so that there is some room to shake the salt into the mixture.
Okay now that we’ve made our patina concoction apply that to the 2nd coat of WET metal paint…leave on until you get the desired effect and put 2 coats of clear coat on.
Easy Peasy…my directions probably sound intimidating 😜
I built cabinet doors with 26 gauge cold rolled sheet steel as the raised panel. I rusted it with the acid/peroxide method and then 4 coats of deft spray lacquer. Looks great but after a couple weeks i now have some of the rust flaking off. I'm wondering if i should have used some kind of neutralizer before the lacquer? Any suggestions?
If the rust is flaking off, it wasn't given time to bite into the metal and was just a surface rust. What method did you use to rust the metal?
@@ArtfullyRogue Muriatic acid brushed on to Dawn cleaned steel. Sometimes sanded. Then hydrogen peroxide sprayed on. I have found that rusting steel is like a box of chocolate .... I've seen that sometimes the hydrogen peroxide seems to puddle and not bite but it creates some beautiful flowing patterns. These are the areas that flake. I also rusted the same way, some roof panels out of new corrugated steel. I sprayed them off with water the same day that they were rusted to neutralize them. they haven't flaked and have been outside (in Colorado) but no lacquer. They have not flaked. I have to admit I'm not very patient and have sprayed lacquer the morning after rusting the metal. To make matters more complicated, some of the puddled areas haven't flaked! Is there a way for me to attach photos? Thanks Dude, I apreciate you responding!
I like the dark blue accents on your metal doors. How did the blue form? Any tips on how to get more blue and less red/brown?
This was interesting and helpful. I've had luck mixing vinegar and peroxide and using it on Modern Master's iron paint. Good Job. Thanks.
Cool thanks for watching Peter
Have you tried applying heat such as a propane torch, it seems to accelerate the process.
I have and I really didn't noticed anything significant for my what I'm doing with it
Do you think this method would work on tin plated steel? I bought some ceiling tiles that I need to antique to look a little closer to some "actual" antique ceiling tiles. Also...what would happen if you wanted come color from paint in there too? Think that would work?
You might need to rough up the tin with sandpaper to remove the protective layer. To get color, you can use metal stains or do a light dusting of enamel spray
Artfully Rogue it actually worked pretty great!!! Used some paint and got exactly the look I was wanting.
@@lynetteparker7290 Excellent that's excellent!
Doug, Do you have an exterior sealer you would recommend? Say like an exterior polyurethane?
I often use Deft spray clear coat or I'll use an automotive two spray on,,, I forget the brand at the moment but I'll check tomorrow when I'm at the shop
man, this is awesome... thank you so much for this video! I'm a student in architecture and really wanna put metal on some of my walls but have no money to pay someone to do it. so I will do this on some cheap metal myself :) thank you!
Excellent I love the idea of doing it yourself. So glad my video will help with that.
Quick question. I'm rusting a metal sign, roll sheet steel with a design cut out. But it has vinyl lettering on the bottom. Will the vinegar peel the vinyl?
It shouldn't. Really depends on the quality of the vinyl
@@ArtfullyRogue thank you. I wish you could send a picture of this sign, because it is absolutely beautiful. It's for a pizza place in Southwestern Michigan
I'm about to try this on some bedside table draw fronts i'm making, tossing up between just vinegar or using the muriatic acid and peroxide approach. do you need to neutralise either once you get your desired result, or do you just go straight to the clear coat?
typically once the item is dry, yes I'll go straight to the clear coat. Rinsing the vinegar too early can remove it. Whereas rinsing the acid/peroxide is fine at any stage
@@ArtfullyRogue Thanks Doug!!
Not only good information, but very well presented. I subscribed. I noticed the rail for the door behind you was not rusted. I am thinking of rusting my barn door rail, but is there a reason you would caution against doing that? Thank you again for the great video!
Rusting the rail would be fine. As long as you avoid surface flaking so as the door travels the rust stays where it's suppose to and not end up on the floor
I’m building a pop out fire place wall-what gauge of metal should I use and where do you buy from?
If its going to see a lot of heat from the fireplace I would go with 1/8" thick. If its just decorative, you can go with a 16gauge thickness
@@ArtfullyRogue thank you so much! Just got our steel ready to get the project going
These methods are great! Can I use any of these methods over stainless steel? I have used Lysol toilet bowl cleaner with steel wool left on top of it on unsanded stainless in the past and it’s worked pretty well but I would love to use something more natural if I can. Thanks.
I’m wanting to rust the same hardware you have shown in this video. Can I use this same method
Yes, as long as the steel is untreated or covered in mill scale
I have an antique gun barrel that was cleaned and I would like to restore some black patina. Do you have any suggestions?
Hello John, Can't say I've ever done a gun restore before however I've heard of using gun bluing . I would suggest checking out video on bluing to get the best info. Bluing is something I still want to try but haven't yet
Hi cool video
One question . Do you have to wash before applying a clear coat or apply on top of the viniger?
Hi Doug,
I am looking to do a large outdoors bar sign, I have two questions if you could help?
What percentage of peroxide do I need, I can only seem to find 3% food grade.
Secondly I am wanting to clear coat it but loved the copper sulfate but worried about the reaction to the lacquer! using the Muriatic acid and Peroxide and vinegar will the clear coat work ok?
Hi David, I use the 3% peroxide as it readily available. I either spray or brush on the acid then spray on the peroxide. And other making the rust a little darker, I've not not any issues with using clear coat on the peroxide/acid method or the copper sulfate.
@@ArtfullyRogue Thanks for the advice Doug, really appreciate the help. Your work looks amazing, got a crazy deadline to get these bar signs done but will post you a few pics upon completion.
Thanks David, I look forward to seeing the finished signs :)
You can get MUCH stronger peroxide at Beauty Supply stores.
Beautiful, Doug!
Thank-You for sharing those tips!
Thanks for watching Shelly and you are very welcome
Good job! Thank you for that! Very familiar with the message, however, the way you demonstrated, was excellent and highly comprehensible. Thanks for teaching people! I have other message I use as well. But yours are awesome. Keep up the great work. Stay well and have a beautiful day.👍🙏
Thanks a ton for the comment
Does this work with aluminum?
No not that I'm aware of
How would you patina steel beams
If they have mill scale on them you might need to rough them up a bit to remove the mill scale before you rust them.
What sheen lacquer are you using ?
I often use a semi gloss
Sorry folks I forgot this link -Mitchell uses offcuts of copper wire-might be something to try --ua-cam.com/video/trGH5MfIfWQ-/v-deo.html-, note- some guys have mentioned humidity-this may well be a local factor on how good methods work where you are.
Have you tried adding food coloring to vinegar for color? I'm looking for that blue green patina.
Yes actually I have! :) I figured if it would dye eggs then why not try metal. For blue green patinas, check out Sculpt Nouveau, they have a blue green stain that I find works well
Do any of these work on zinc?
You'd have to remove the zinc first
@@ArtfullyRogue i really appreciate you actually answering. I'm sorry if I'm taking up your time. I can't really find anything about doing this with zinc. I'm refurbishing a beautiful dovetail joined box that's a family heirloom. It's missing some carriage bolts. I don't want them to be bright shiny silver, lol. Do you have any videos on how to do that?
@@MSANTHR0P3 so you want to remove the zinc plating?
@@ArtfullyRogue if that's what it would take to get a natural patina on it, than yes. I'd like to be able to just patina the zinc without having to grind it down.
@@MSANTHR0P3 you can remove zinc by soaking the hardware in muriatic acid for about 10-15 minutes. Once down to raw steel, you can rust or add a metal patina
Thanks Rogue - I just watched a video that uses a solution of peroxide and a small amount of vinegar mixed. It was not as fast as the muriatic acid but faster than vinegar alone.
You're very welcome! Yeah used the vinegar/peroxide method for a short time but them stumbled on the acid/peroxide method and now thats my preference for sure because of the fast acting result
Just finished an art piece based on your techniques. It turned out really cool! It isn't perfect, but for a first attempt with a couple of my own technique modifications, I'm pretty happy with it. If there's a way to send you a photo, I will. Please let me know. Thanks for the knowledge! ✌️👽
Sounds great! you can send me an email at rogueartist@artfullyrogue.com
The pointing glove on a stick made my day. Wondered if throwing some salt crystals on would add a blotchiness?
I've never played too much with salt but when I have it never produced anything mind blowing for me
Need a little help.. I want to paint an American flag on a 48” x 36” piece of steel and then incorporate a substantial rust affect. Will I get the rust affect if the steel is painted?
I suppose it will depend on the type of paint you use. If it's a metal stain, then you should get some rust penetration. If you're using an enamel I doubt it will get to the metal enough to make a difference.
"Mill spec" is military specifications.
"Mill scale" is what he's meaning to say.
What happens if you clear coat over the vinegar treatment to seal it?
I do clear coat once I get the rust look that I want.
thanks for helping me out with your suggestions.
Happy to help Darcelle
Can you stabilize the rust with phosphoric acid?
not really sure, I've never tried that
Great tutorial. I create assemblages. Mixed media and this is very useful for me. What other little do dads would rust that u can think of? Thanks Bon
Would the vinegar method work on galvanized steel water tanks/troughs?
Yes it will however you'll need to remove the galvanized top layer. I find that a flap wheel on an angle grinder works best for that.
Was the muriatic acid diluted? If so what ratio to water? Thanks! Very cool to see!
Does anyone know how I could possibly get a really dark almost black rust on a truck trying to build a true patina truck and I love the black rust but I can’t think of something to press on the panels for 48 hours
Vinagre vermelho é expetacular e barato, uma dica para seu ratlook ou ratcustom, portas, etc ... ❤❤❤
Realmente disfruto trabajar con vinagre y observar las texturas frescas en el óxido que crea.
Just found your channel, love the pointer you used in the beginning 🤣
Awesome! Thank you!
I've seen people mixing vinegar, peroxide and salt. In the bottle and spray. Did you try it?
Separately but I've not tried them mixed together...I'll have to give that a shot and see what happens
Where do I get murassic acid?
I typically buy it from Home Depot in the pool cleaning section. You can go to any hardware or swimming pool store and they should have it
Can you use Hydrochloric Acid instead of Muriatic Acid?
Honestly I don't know that answer. I've only used Muriatic Acid
I can't find any info on aging a cheap tin bucket... Most how to's work on steel or galvanized finishes. Will any of these work for my project?
Tin is a little tricky because it depends on the materials used to make that particular tin. I find that many times, if I can sand the metal and exposed the metal below any 'protective' coating then I can use the vinegar or acid/peroxide treatment
Hi Doug thanks for all your tips. I have a vintage Simmons metal dresser sanded down ready to rust out. What would be the effect of just wiping vinegar onto it? Versus spraying? And how long do I have to wait before I clear coat?
Let me know bro Great stuff you have here!
Hi there Mark, wiping the vinegar on has a cool effect actually and the longer you leave it on, the darker it will go. Once its reaches a point where you're happy, clear coat it. Keep in mind it will darken a bit more with the clear coat. I would also suggest testing on a sample first.
@@ArtfullyRogue Thank you
Can you apply this over flat paint?
not sure it would work the same as it really needs to be direct on the metal
Can we make cold rolled steel (natural) Finish in Fabricated steel skin of sheet?
sooo.. if i like the rust job ... i should just spray the finish on the dry rusted metal? ... not wipe it 1st?
Thank you so much for this informative video ! It's got me thinking of some different ways to artfully finish the exterior of a Tiny home. I was wondering about using this kind of a finishing method on an exterior made with SIP's, having a Metal exterior component. I was wondering how added exposure to the elements would affect the surface of the rusted metal.
I guess the clear coat is the question. I'm wondering how durable the finish would be? Do you think a clear epoxy finish would be a better long term solution over the whole project ? My biggest concern would be with future rust of a deeper nature. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated !
Again, thank you for sharing your great video and any future feedback you may have !
as a general rule Epoxy does not resist sunlight. Boat builders usually surface coat epoxy with a uv resistant varnish or some such.