Finishes for ironwork - blacksmithing for beginners
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Once you have completed your forging project, what will you do to protect and enhance the appearance? While my old stand by is Johnson's paste Wax, there are loads of other options out there.
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Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.
I'm just getting in to blacksmithing at 60 yrs old . I enjoy your videos and appreciate the knowledge you are giving .
Glad to help
Excellent info as always. I may have commented on this before, but I like your added focus on safety and particularly fire safety as compared to a number of other smithing channels. In blacksmithing, as with many other metal-related crafts, you are literally playing with fire, so taking every opportunity to teach people how to not burn their shop/house/garage/whatever down will get a thumbs up from me every time.
I second this one for sure. Absolutely
I use the homemade beeswax, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits concoction. The current batch is paste consistency and I keep a rag in the container with it. The rag is impregnated with the paste and all I have to do is use the rag. The other finish I use that you didn’t mention is a baked on oil finish. I use canola and apply it to hot steel. Then I pass the piece through the flames of the forge. I let it cool a bit and then do it again. It’s like seasoning a cast iron pan.
Thanks
Nice. Might try this. I use bees wax itself, or the linseed by itself. I've heard a few make that concoction.
For cookware I use coconut oil or ifni have it rapeseed. They don't rancid. My drinking horn came with instructions that were near the same. No heat of course. 🍻
How do you make the beeswax? From earwax?
Wonderful tutorial, thank you!
I use Butcher block conditioner.. its beeswax, carnauba wax and mineral oil.
My two favorite finishes even though they stink when applying them is WD-40 and the spare hydraulic oil I have. Both finishes when completed and dipped in water just seem to bead up and fall off. I apply them with a black heat. Generally have the piece cold throw it into my gas forge for about 10-30 seconds. Depending on size. They way I tell if it's hot enough is after dunking said piece is how much smoke is created. Also afterwards I take a rag and wipe off any carbon that's built on the surface. The hydraulic oil seems to leave a real black finish while the WD-40 seems to leave a blueish black color.
When I was young and lived on a cattle ranch, my dad used wax mixed into hot kerosene to coat ironwork. We used shop rags to apply the stuff. We also used it on farm equipment, the painted and non-painted surfaces of tractors, hay mowers and even pickups. I was usually in charge of “waxing” the tools and farm equipment. The process is dangerous, very much so, and absolutely not appropriate for use in an enclosed space, like a shop. It must be applied outdoors. To prepare, pour about a cup of kerosene into an old saucepan or anything in which you can heat the kerosene. Put it on a low burning stove (I usually used a camp stove, not the greatest idea). A hot plate would work well, but my dad always insisted that I be far enough away from the shop, garage or house that the fumes wouldn’t drift into corners and become a fire hazard. Do not build a campfire to heat the kerosene. I was far away from electricity. Shave (or grate - grating never occurred to me) about a quarter cup of wax (or less) into the kerosene and heat it up. DON’T boil it. Just get it hot enough that the wax melts. Stir it until the wax is melted and mixed well, then get it away from the heat source. It sort of doesn’t matter what kind of wax you use. Sometimes we used beeswax if it was cheap and readily available; other times we used canning paraffin (my mother did a lot of canning so there were a lot of pucks of wax around). The beeswax mix took days to dry (the kerosene, at first sort of oily, dried away within hours). The paraffin mix seemed to dry that day. Unless you’ve used too much wax, the wax seems to go away as well. You’re left with a very, very thin protective coat of wax with maybe a tiny amount of kerosene still in the coating. The mixture must be applied pretty warm (or hot). If it cools to much, the wax and kerosene will separate and become impossible to spread. We never did the process in winter.
Thankyou Sir. You used the term Kerosene and Parrafin in you text, are they one and the same thing please? (I am from UK and know Parrafin, but we never see Kerosene as a product over here). Or maybe your Kerosene is what I know as Diesel fuel? Kind regards.
Thank you so much for the info! I have been searching for more information on coatings for a while now! I would also like to add that as far as an inexpensive source for bee's wax is toilet gasket's! They can be found at almost any hardware store and they have approximately a half pound of the stuff and usually costs less than $5 US. Thank you again.
I do bees wax exactly as you showed here. Another food safe option I've done is canola oil, applied black heat, little smoke. Comes out like a properly seasoned cast iron skillet. Holds up to being outside not too bad.
Thank You for this excellent review of metal finishes. I have used gunsmith cold blue on various tools with good success. My local gunsmith has also used his hot blue tank for folks that want to have certain items finished that way. Then there is the parkerizing finish that they used on a lot of old military rifles. The metal finish that interests me most is the Brown finish they used for hundreds of years on muzzle loading rifles. ( The 'Brown Bess ' musket got it's name from the brown patina.)
That clear powder coat sounds interesting I didn't know they could do that that's awesome. I like your special sauce I I'm going to have to make some to try I have all the ingredients already. I just like my trusty boiled linseed oil when you burn it on that stuff is tough
Now i just need a video on how to find a hardware store there far and few between these day i only know of one real hardware store
Yes, spontaneous combustion does happen - happened to me! I left a balled up cotton rag in the metal bowl that I had the linseed oil in ( on our cement sidewalk). Got called away for a phone call then the kiddo woke up hungry, etc. About 2 hours later, a gardener knocked on my door saying that he had put out a small fire in the bowl. Thank goodness it was outside, in a metal bowl, and on a cement surface.
I use a ton of different ferric chloride acid finishes and I do some cold blueing that turns out nice on smaller pieces.
Good day, as always excellent video and instruction. Your personality is very tough to beat. The way you explain things your honesty and sincerity and integrity, are just at the top.! Thank you for sharing with everyone your expert opinion. As well as the importance of the fire safety. If it's OK, I may add that's a beautiful dragon knocker you made. Keep up the great work as always, stay well and have a beautiful day. Jim
As a Brit living on the coast hot dip galvanising is the next best thing to working in stainless. For functional items like gates and fences if you don't galvanise it you are setting yourself up for a lifetime of sanding and painting. I had my fill of working on rusty gates helping my grandma out as a boy. It sucked and seemed like I had to do it every year, each time the gates would get a little bit thinner. It was a life lesson in futility but I'd be happy to do it again if i could see her once more.
Linseed oil-drenched rags can ignite spontaneously, so never simply throw them away. A lot of fires have started that way!
@Danger Bear only if you want to evict them from the neighborhood
Nice tutorial. I love that dragon knocker too, that thing is too cool. I have seen several other tutorials and some people don’t mention spontaneous combustion. That’s actually something I have witnessed myself. Again good info thanks!
Sometimes i blacken small items in my coalfire.
To do this, put some fresh coal on top of the fire (this will smoke).
Heat your work in this smoky fire and rub it with an oily cotton rag.
Rutland's stove polish. Great for out in the weather items. Think it is basically beeswax and lampblack softened with a little bit of kerosene.
What would you Recommend for cast iron ? I have a cast iron stool and didn’t want to paint it I like the metal look
I think any of these finishes would work fine for cast iron
I use to have a power coating shop. There is so many different powers all colors candy finish it’s really nice. I still do small parts at home with power coating. Eastwood.com sells a small power gun for at home use and You can use a toaster over or a home oven. But now the oven u will cook in. I also add linseed oil to the Johnsons paste wax it flows a little easier and smother. Ok thx John. Another good one. Thx for sharing ....paul
Thanks for the info. I just ordered a gun and starter kit. I have a welding rod oven that would never be used for food that I could use. Never thought I could powder coat myself. I've paid to do it for years.
Wonderful video John. Especially appreciated the Fire Fighter's perspective. Great Job!!!
Being a fireman sure is an asset of skill sets to bring to blacksmithing. And I appreciate your use of science. I'd love to try a bunch of the experiments you've shown. I wish I could. It looks like so much fun and intellectual challenge to put to useful items.
I liked the opening sequence where you panned over the finishes. It reminded me of Star Wars. Very nice!
“ 2 years ago in blacksmith shop far far away “
Hi John, I love your channels as well as your Facebook shorts. I have recently learned that Johnsons has discontinued their paste wax. I was wondering if you have a new go to? Thanks.
I had heard that as well. I'll either go to straight bees wax or a bees wax linseed oil and turpentine mix.
Thanks John. Keep on doing what you do 😊
Combustible sounds so much more severe than flammable and yet it's technically not as bad flammable. I'd much rather have a lit cigarette around combustibles than flammables (though I'd prefer not to really do either).
Great video. Its nice to know what can finish a project. Big thumbs up John!
You can bake a boiled linseed oil and beeswax finished piece (or straight BLO) in an oven at 250 degrees F for a couple hours to speed up the drying/hardening process.
New hobbyist here; It seems like every time I come up with a question while working, you've made a video on it. Much appreciated!
ooooooh, i love that dragon. ummmm, they don't make sc johnson's wax anymore. and all the bozos who know this, sell partial cans for $100+. Why do people do this?? Geez. Any replacement brand for the SC Johnson? Thanks!
i use basically a hodgepodge of my wife's candles that she no longer uses. i have the mix wax in a small cast iron cauldron that sits on top of my gas forge so it will be melted when i go to use it and thats also the time i add any old candles that she leaves me so they can all mix as one. i think sometime ago i added beeswax to it as well! thanks for the great videos John keep them coming.
I like best the looks of pure wirebrushed surface.For things being placed outdoors needing some rustprotecting I use raw linseedoil applied when hot and then cold.Raw linssed oil penetrate better than boiled.Only downside it takes some time to dry.
That's funny. Rob Gunter was my blacksmithing teacher.
I do like the tidbits of fire safety, always very useful to know how to not cinge my face off
I'm 62 next Sunday and I have my dads flip top shop rag can that closes automatically. It's great for oily rags.
A product from Australia called Lanotec, it's a lanolin based product developed here in Australia and the test results were outstanding in corrosion protection, wear resistance and quite a few different parameters, Lanotec out performed other products and substances commonly used in protecting of metal finishes and surfaces and in most cases by a considerable margin. I'd highly recommend you try this product for yourself and as a bonus it's also great for the skin on your hands and makes a great skin and hand treatment for all those gnarled rough hard working hands but in all seriousness it's the best anti corrosive protection I've used on unprotected metal surfaces, I also use it to lubricate all the working parts on tools and machinery and as it's non conductive you can use it to protect the windings on electrical motors, ignition systems and the uses are endless. In one of the tests done on wear of chains in the loaders and unloaders on the wharves and docks that unload and load cargo ships, the chains lasted 3 times as long when coated with Lanotec compared to the ones covered in grease which had previously been best practice. 👍✌️
Thanks for the options. When I was young and living with my parents someone did something with linseed oil and balled up the rags and set them on the shelf in the garage and they burst into flame. We walked into the garage and found it on fire but still on the shelf. We got it out but it could have been a lot worse.
for paste wax, i use minwax because that's what the hardware store has. apply it to hot metal and wipe off the excess and let it cool completely. apply more, let it dry, buff with a cotton rag. repeat until it glows, like polishing shoes.
People allergic to peanuts are allergic to proteins within the peanut, not the oil.
Any decently refined oil should be more than fine particularly as a finish.
Thanks John for another great class.
Good advise on rags. I have known two people who had serious house fires because of rags in the garage.
I've used linseed oil a lot for much of my iron work but I have also used gun bluing . Birchwood Caseys super blue was the best but where I live is now unavailable. I found the gel bluing was the next best thing. I followed this sometimes with a coat of flat lacquer for interior things like hooks and handles. So far it seems to hold up and the bluing leaves a very nice natural looking finish.
Please watch your lungs every one, I pay for it now, never smoked, use great, not good ventilation, oh yeah, great information. Thanks
This video is really helpful. Thanks.
I ordered some Sculpt Nouveau "Black Magic" patina when I saw it used at ABANA and they sent me some of their Metal Oil with the order. I really like the Metal Oil finish and the black magic is great for making your whole piece look the same. I forgot, they also sent me some of there durable two part finish that I have not tried yet, but it can be applied over the metal oil along with other finishes can be applied over the oil.
Thanks, John, very useful! Unfortunately, I won´t find many of those products here where I live...But my recepie is to soak the forged pieces in vinegar for 24h, than I paint then with a paint named as Hammerite, usually in black. I woud love that it came without color, because the forged iron gets such an amazing finish! Greetings from Brazil!
Do you have any recommended replacements for Johnson Paste Wax now that it has been discontinued?
Great bit today. Thanks my friend.
I think linseed oil “cures” rather than drying. At least that’s what my carpenter grandfather said.
Has anyone tried Fluid Film’s lanolin-based rust inhibitor applied to a hot metal surface?
You offered a lot more than the topic required and every bit was well presented and informative. Thank you. I’m your latest scriber. 🤓
ScJohnson stopped making paste wax in 2022.
Hi jhon
Great advice I have made a pair of bespoke hinges for my front door and I have been advised too have them sink coated then powder coated but I don’t want them to look too shiny I kind of like them the way they are but I live near the cost. Should I go satin black or Matt ?
What does the Ospho finish look like on iron? That one you didn't show?
Thx great video
I’ve had people want to buy some hook racks (3-4 hooks on a flat bar backplate) to use in their bathrooms, but they would rust from the humidity and whatever finish I put on would likely rub off from the on/off of towels/clothing. What would you suggest as a finish for bathroom use?
Powder coating would be reliable, but can lack the character of other finishes. I always think of iron like I do wood, they need occasional refinishing and maintenance.
Very nice (like always). Thank you for sharing [For the EU citizens. Mineral spirit is terpentine/turpentine/white spirit]
What about copper coating. Either liquid or copper brush on hot metal
Nice work! I know this video is 4 years old, do you have any updates?
Doritos salsa jars are great for mixtures of all these oils and waxes and stuff..
Great info as always, Thanks John. I made up a batch of your shop special sealed it up in a mason jar. Just need to get to work so I can try it on something.
I have not heard anyone refer to quenching oil for finish but in your opinion wold it work as a finish and if so what kind of condition do you think it would wore for
I hvw heard of people do that, but haven't tried it myself
i used neutrarust 661, braindead application no heating needed just paint it on and it goes a nice black colour that protects it or primes it for other paints.
I use an acrylic floor wax, used to be called future floor wax now it is called pledge floor wax. Gives a nice finish and can be applied cold. It works well for indoor products.
For items that will be outside or in a bathroom I use a varathane spray lacquer to protect the item.
You can also nickel or zink plate your smaller items up to 2 feet at home.
Very easily, there are youtube videos on how to set up a solid electroplating set up.
Coke (soda) has phosphoric acid in it. Can you use that?
Great video, thanks for the info, especially the fire safety with oil rags.
What’s your opinion on apply tong oil to an steel offset smoker ? Thanks
As a beginner I found it a challenge to keep working on forge for several jobs as also doing my finish work, So after forge work now I trying to do my finish after reheating my work in my toaster.
I been using the 1/3 mineral spirit, 1/3 linseed oil, and 1/3 bees wax, it works great. Thanks for the other options. I have Johnson's past wax for our wood working projects and look forward to trying on metal.
Thankyou Sir. Could you please say what the mineral spirit is, is that White spirit or turpentine? (I'm from the UK you see, often different terminology is commonly used). Also, is the Linseed Boiled or Raw Linseed that you use. Kind regards.
@@onanysundrymule3144
I have found this to work well for me, it is also suppose to be good for leather. I discovered this from another black smith, who said this is a very old method. Here is the link to that video. Please note I use 1/3 for all components, which does very some from what he does. Also follow the precautions, this can be flammable.
ua-cam.com/video/bcndMLZV7hs/v-deo.html
I hope this helps. Wayne
Beeswax
Turpentine
Boiled Linseed Oil
What finish would you recommend for a Cast Iron Church Bell? Its a big 36" Bell, and is in an enclosed bell tower, but moisture still blows in through the louvers during heavy storms, what finish would best protect it? Thanks.
I would probably try a wax or oil finish, but something like stove black might work well.
You also should try lanolin and mineral spirits.
The lanolin is wool grease.
On a rusted piece it will soak in and stop the rust.
Dennis Williams I use lanolin. ..
On my beard.
This is a great video. I usually always use wax if not boiled linseed oil. I remember once I had had a bad day and was waxing some work I was not very happy with and was trying it too hot I lost a lot of fringe that day...
I live in the Great Northwest! Oregon......Problem is I live with the ocean on 3sides of me. What that means is things rust in the house. Any advise?
Bryson
I hear that in the UK it is common to have work galvanized then powder coated. Even painting with a zinc primer would help if done properly.
i'd just use paper and throw it in the forge after im done..
I suppose you could start the coal forge with your oily rags.
I’ve been using marine grade stainless steel to forge outside items! I’m in love. The recipients of my projects love the stainless silvery color too.
Oily rags are no joke I've seen them catch fire a couple times.
I have to say thanks for all the videos you continue to put out. I came back to this video from one you posted today.
Thanks a lot for this! I've never managed to consistently get a good finish with linseed oil but I thought your paste wax example looked good so I went out and bought a jar... And it works perfectly every time! Great stuff.
Glad I could help!
I like the paste wax and boiled linseed oil mixed together and put on hot metal.
I have to say- I just stumbled on your channel but I'm very happy with the information that you're giving to folks like me.
I appreciate you and thanks for the info. I know I've gleaned a bit of it on my own but it's nice to see another person that's willing to share said info.
Happy holidays.🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾
Happy holidays
I didnt even finish watching and im so glad you made this video..... I have been struggling with keeping tool restorations and hot rod work free from rust rust rust..... up hear in the NY coast! Thanks for sharing!
Glad I could help!
I almost exclusively use the Johnson Paste wax. Sometimes I will spray a clear coat over that. Thanks.
Any ideas of the best way to restore a wrought iron door? It would have to be a cold application obviously and there's glass to consider. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I've never done anything in the way of restoration work.
I use Canola oil, just started up/havent rly invested to much into my blacksmithing yet. This video was really helpfull!
does it smell after a while ?
exactly what I needed.... thank you
Penetrol and flat black paint (10parts to 1part approximately) is a nice durable finish. It needs to dry a day or so. 👍🏼
Is wrought iron less susceptible to corrosion
Excellent Tutorial, Sir !
The varieties and Hazards !
Recently - I did a 50/50 of B.Linseed and M.Spirits to coat the underbelly of my Pickup Truck, then 1 wk later - I applied a Teflon/Silicone Polymer with Hexane(thinner) to cover the “cured” Linseed, because of all the salt - here in Buffalo Ny hoping….it holds up - this winter. Loved your video👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Thankyou - for putting this together!
Been waiting for this video
I've just been using car oil
You mentioned the paste wax drying out over time. If you heat it gently and add a solvent it thins it back up to where it is soft. I use mineral spirits. The solvent as shipped is naptha.
Thanks, good tip
That recipe I found in an 1898 book called a “Cyclopedia of receipts and remedies” , the Lord Knows where it is now! It claimed to give rust free performance on steels in moist saltwater environments for sure to last six months. I can back that up. Whilst is began a word working hobby all I could afford were “antique” tools which were basically the stuff I used in the fifties with my grand dad. Couldn’t afford to rejapan everything I had then I came across your recipie. I’ve stored tools in wooden boxes for over twenty years and NOTHING ever rusted. Just like cosmoline, works great but, a bitch to get off.
Is it a good idea to finish your tools? Tongs, anvil, hammers, etc?
A light finish to help prevent rust is a good idea.
Thanks for this video John, I really enjoyed it. I have learned quite a bit from your videos.
Thank you for all the info. Great videos! Appreciate the warning about spontaneous combustion.
Thanks, great video, I’d like to see the effect of the weather on your work with these types of finish. As always very instructive.
I'm just curious, my daughter started blacksmithing lately and I have this bees wax furniture paste. Would that work to protect her projects or should I get her something different?
most paste wax formulas work fine for iron work. Should be fine for anything not in contact with food, unless the product is sold as food safe.
@@BlackBearForge thank you for the information, I'll give it to her and let her know about it possibly being unsafe for food related items
Excellent info... BTW, Japan drier is sold at art supply stores, not hardware stores...
Are the oil/wax finishes good for using it on chairs or beds? Will my new white pants still be clean and white after siting on the chair? Maybe some one has tips on finishes you can use for this kind of applications?