Fix That Prius! - Effects of a Clogged Heater Core on a Gen 3 Prius? Overheating!
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- My Gen 3 Prius v has been Overheating! This is my Gray v Five that I put a 2016 Prius engine in. I replaced the coolant and it must have stirred up some Barr's Leaks and clogged my heater core. This describes all the steps I went through to identify the cause of my overheating and the results of each as well as the arrival at the cause.
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Thanks for this! Cool troubleshooting techniques! You should update the description and tell us people in the future if replacing the heater core solved your problems.
Ok so I'm pissed now, I swapped out my engine but my passenger rear tire is still low!
Hello All, I am following up on my experience with the GEN 4 engine swap and the water-pump. I swapped my engine out right at 50K miles ago and when I did, I put the original water pump on. That pump lasted only a couple days and was dead. Then I ordered a pump from a Japanese supplier that worked for 50K. It was listed as working for all models both GEN 3 and GEN 4. Well it died. So I ordered a new pump from Toyota and, while I was ordering it, I discovered that Toyota now lists a separate part number for the GEN 4s. When I looked at the pumps side by side it looks as if the impeller doesn't protrude into the pump housing quite as much. Also, there are some other differences.
While I was at it, I cut out the jiggle pin in the thermostat. This was a big help in purging air from the system. It took me 2 days to purge it before with the jiggle pin in but with the jiggle pin removed it took an hour. I put the hole left by the jiggle pin at the 9 o'clock position; I don't know if it will make a difference where it is but it worked..
I pulled the reservoir tank and elevated it as described. I also opened the vent near the EGR and put a clear vinyl tube on its outlet which I hung from the hood latch. With the reservoir filled I pumped the lower radiator hose WITH BOTH HANDS. This was important as I didn't see air leaving the system until I did that. Also, I pumped the hose fast on contraction but let it off slowly. This prevented air from being pulled back into the vent by the EGR. Once I got as much of the air out of the system as I could, I then jacked the car up on each side and repeated this procedure several times. Jacking it up on the right side (in the USA that would be the drivers side) made the biggest difference. When I couldn't get more radiator fluid in, I put the car in service mode with the heat on high. I had the radiator cap on and the vent by the EGR closed at this point. I had heat pretty quickly but it took a while to warm up. I squeezed the lower radiator hose several times while it was running. It took about 20 min for it to warm up to the point where the thermostat opened but when it did, the fluid level in the reservoir dropped from the B line down to full. Yeah!!!
I took it for a 100 mile drive and it worked perfectly. Good luck to everyone and Happy New Year. Thank you FIX That Prius for the fantastic help!
Hi Bruce, Great post. Thanks for sharing your experience. And a Happy New Year to you!!!
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What was the part # for the gen 4 water pump??
@@Christian-lt7wd Hi Chris, The part number for the one I bought that worked for the 4th gen engine was 161A0-39035.
Barr's leaks and anything from K-seals, bluedevil, etc. are stupid. It will brake all parts that can cost more than $5000 total. Heat core, exhaust exchanger, waterpump, radiator, etc.
Update: NEVER SET A FOOT IN DEALERSHIP!!! i had intermittent sporadic random overheating accompanied with a burst of coolant over the overflow on the plastic tank. toyota dealers convinced me that they looked inside the cylinder with a boro scope and there was coolant seeping tru. FVCK THAT SH!T!!!. Just received all parts, took off the head... GUESS WHAT!!!!! My gasket is perfectly OK! I am so mad at these fake specialists in toyota. they thought that they can get me leave the car for "repair" for 3,600 plus taxes and everything FVCK TOYOTA!!!! FVCK ALL THESE "professionals". i believe that all my problems were with jammed egr and specifically the heat exchanger. I soaked it in oven cleaner, then boiled it on bonfire with water 4-5 times until water comes out clean. This is the single most important lesson for me. and perhaps to you guys!!!! I HATE PROFESSIONALS AND I DONT TRUST THEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I followed your engine swap and it worked great. Then the water pump went and has been a PITA. I love your bypassing everything to find out what the cause was. My problem was just air in the system.
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I had to drill a hole in my thermostat plate to let the air through. the jiggle pin is supposed to do that but wasn't. Haven't had a problem since.
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Bruce Williams Bruce. I have the same BS. Keep getting air in cooling system no heat and overheating issues. What you think????
@@fixthatprius4980 How big a hole did you drill? I just replace my thermostat and pump and it didn't fix it. Thank you for the response.
@@gusone203 Hi Gustavo, in my case it happened when I changed the thermostat and water-pump. In your case, it sounds like a leak in the system. I would pressure the system up with air and see if it leaks down. If the air escapes the system and you can't find the leak, it is probably in the head gasket. Best of luck with it.
Bruce Williams I will try removing the tstat to see what happens.
Im glad I went ahead dumped and changed my coolant while during my water pump replacement. I did it becouse I was afraid of the gunk stopping up my heater core. I dont mind changing water pumps and other repairs and putting the videos on my youtube but to heck with heater core jobs.
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Please make more videos I have the same problem 3rd gen Prius over heats! Your the freakin man bro! Great video!
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Part of my problem is it's too cold to get the coolant flowing through the thermostat so it takes a long time to get the air out. I'm still working on it. I flushed out the heater core and the whole system and drove the car. Still overheating. Now when I say overheating I mean the light comes on. I'll do a video if I ever get it back to normal.
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Is there a possibility it can be the temperature sensor near the egr acting defective?
@@ED-yd3xd Good question. I unplugged it and it showed up as non-functional.
Fix That Prius! Is it possible to make the thermostat stay open? You may not get any heat in cabin but it shouldn’t overheat.
@@traveljay751 Hi,
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Yes you can remove the inside of the thermostat so it's wide open. I did that for about a month. It helped clean out the clogs.
It never got hot with the thermostat out.
Nice beard pops! Looking epic.
The beard - is awesome! 😍
Thanks!!!! that was over a year ago!!!
Here is that time of the year again! I gave up on my 2010 Prius last winter because of lack of heating. This spring, I replaced the head gasket. As a matter of fact, my heating started acting up since I started adding "Head Gasket Sealants" in it. I did it in total of four times. They become less "effective" as the time progressed. I highly discourage people from using them especially on hybrid cars because of the complexity of their heating and cooling systems. There was so much deposit built up on big coolant passages and blockages on the small ones. My car runs fine now except the heating is still not getting warm enough.
Here is the list of the things I have done so far: Replaced water pump, T-stat twice, radiator, power washed the heater core, replaced both coolant temp sensors. The inlet and outlet temperature of heater core lines are about 150 F within about 10 degrees apart. The max temperature at the driver's vent is 110 F while it becomes cooler towards the passenger.
What seems to be wrong!? I have done the elevation technics each time I have done some heating system work. It seems I have circulation problems or maybe still air trapped. Where else can I flush to get rid of possible restriction?
Hello bro . My 2010 Prius has same problem.no heating inside car and engine is overheating after 45 mins of drive . I recently changed water pump and thinking to change heater core now , how did you solved this problem? Please tell me it'll be very helpful
@@mohdminhaj898 I had blown head gasket and had added Blue Devil head gasket seal three times and clogged the heater core! I had to replace both the head gasket & the heater core aftermath. I only recommend doing it if you're highly mechanically inclined.
@@ronmelliad7327 i still need to figure out what the actual problem is? Is it heater core or blown head gasket or thermostat or coolant temperature sensor ? No mechanic is saying anything surely. Most of them says it's head gasket after listening to "no heat in car and car engine overheats" .
@@mohdminhaj898 There is a test kit you can buy from the part stores to check if you get gases from the combustion drawn to the coolant reservoir. In my case, I was getting misfire codes and engine rattled specifically during the start ups because the coolant was seeping on top of the pistons.
@@mohdminhaj898 Failed thermostat does not cause overheating. Failed temp sensor normally comes with a code. Why don't you check if the radiator fans kick in? If they do that means your temp sensor is OK. I was hearing gargling sound coming to cabin too because the gases coming in to the cooling system.
Hey after the hot water clears Heater core blow it out with the CAR WASH HIGH PRESSURE hose for 15 minutes in both directions
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Now that it's warm out, my thermostat opens as it should but I'm tempted to flush it out again.
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Hey, I cannot find an answer online to my issue, maybe u can help. I have a 2011 prius where the heat works just fine when the ac button is off, but stopps working when i turn on the ac button. On the other hand I have another 2015 prius, and I always leave the ac button on, and the heat works just fine.
Any idea why my heat goes off while ac button is on?
if it was overheating then what made you think it was overheating. did you run obd2 diagnostic tool? my prius temp gauge light didn't light up when it bellowed steam from overheating so it made me think my temp senor was faulty and also the pump thermostat was stuck too and pump was found leaky from pressure test too.
If you want fresh engine to Your pre lift prius you can buy an engine from Toyota iM hybrid up to 2018. They have the same engines. I'm swaping this engine right now and i wonder that i will get overheating problem or not?
What is cases of my toyata Prius driver leg side to hot
If heater is off
Stil feel hot
I want few garage
But could not found any problems
Only one garage said
There is problems for metallic box
Do you think is so
Thanks
I have same issues with my Prius. I have a 2011. Changed out engine, water pump, sensor and thermostat. I have issue when I drive high speeds 70-80 mph up hill. Reservoir hot but not boiling like before. Temp red light would turn on or flash and then when I slow down it will eventually turn off. My mechanic replaced literally everything minus the radiator and the inverter coolant pump. Can anyone please help????
No codes or no check engine lights just the red light engine temperature turns on when driving high speeds up hill for long periods of time.
Is the issue temp sensor on EGR pipes?
My mechanic has replaced with all OEM parts. Any advice?
CAR WASH HIGH PRESSURE CAR WASH HIGH PRESSURE CAR WASH HIGH PRESSURE in Heater Core
I did the swap and the engine runs fine but I keep getting p261b code so I bought another pump AISIN brand with Toyota scratched off. Got the same code . Wiring looks good but it won’t engage unless I jump it straight from the fuse box. Any suggestions? I was wondering maybe the ecu needs reprogramming but can drive it to a dealer and you they will as much as they can legally 🥴
Hi Bro, did you find the reason why your prius was overheating? I did replacement of the 2016 engine to 2010 prius. Had the same overheating problem.
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The short answer is - air gets trapped in the cooling system. This is very common and difficult to overcome.
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New to Prius owning. My 2014 heater does not heat up, just blows air. How do I know if the engine is over heating? There are no temp gauges or digital read out. The car seems to be running rougher. Thanks for sharing. BTW, I’m in the far west burbs too!
More than likely its your head gasket and heater core blocked. Good luck.
Did the Phosphoric Acid cleaning of the catalytic converter work? I just bought a 2007 Prius and that's the only problem that just popped up after 20,000 miles.
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It Did NOT.
Maybe someone will find a way to "fix" a catalytic converter.
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Try coil cleaner for air conditioner. It eats off everything.
you have to cover the electrics before you put wash water in the bonnet area!
Hey, would you be willing to sell me that water pump? I REALLY need one, it's an emergency. Dude sold me a roached gen 3 and I am so screwed. It's overheating and I don't know what to do. My impeller is frozen, head gasket is bad, which I will replace but makes no sense without the water pump.
Buy this one on eBay
www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Aisin-Toyota-Prius-Electric-Water-Pump-2ZRFXE-2ZR-FXE-161A0-29015/202635694027?hash=item2f2e074fcb:g:z0oAAOSw6fpbZs7M
$165
That would be great but this car is the only thing I have to drive and I’m just sick. It won’t last another 3 weeks like that. I made the mistake of trading my
gen 2 for it, and I am ready to completely give up.
If your car burn oil your first suspects is pcv valve need to be replaced
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Yes, you are correct. I did replace the PCV. It had no effect on the oil consumption.
These Prius engines are known to have defective oil control rings, that is why they burn oil.
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please help. prius 2012. random sporadic irreproducible engine overheating. typically, just a short flash of red T warning, accompanied with a splash of coolant out of the overflow tank. splash may be so big that coolant ends up on pass side doors. changed pump, thermostat, temperature sensor. appeared at the time to solve problem, then problem comes again. it was always sporadic. all this happened with NO check engine light and code. some ppl blame on clogged egr valve. took apart the intake manifold, yes, there was some dirt, but not terrible. finally, i got an innova 3130lat and autel mk808bt pro and checked the codes. now i have codes. one of them is P261C "pump B" thing. set autel to watch the temperature and the pump revolutions. short test drive. T reached 100 degC and the pump never moved. target speed was always 0 rpm. I am aware about rotor jammed, and no, my rotor was new when i installed it 4 months ago. the problem seems that the computer does not care that temperature is 100 and does not set target speed.................. what do i need: a new ecu? or reset -- reprogram the computer?
Hi, That's a lot of stuff going on. Let's see if we can make some sense of this. Of course, I'm not there and I'll have to make some assumptions.
Assumption #1 is there is an air bubble in your system. #2 The air ends up at the top of the EGR cooler.
Is it cold where you live? What you describe is typical for a 3rd gen Prius in cold weather. The car runs fine for about 10 minutes then the temp light comes on and it pukes coolant and then it may or may not overheat after that.
This is what you'll have to do.
1) when the car is cool enough, remove the coolant tank cap
2) fill the coolant tank
3) raise the coolant tank as high as you can while the hoses are still attached, no cap
4) unclamp the hose at the top of the EGR cooler and loosen the hose until coolant can come out
The air in the system should escape and coolant should flow from the gap where you loosened the hose.
5) put the hose back on and clamp it.
6) lower the tank and cap it
Do this as offten as nessesary.
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@@fixthatprius4980 Update. The P216C code appeared after I cleaned the intake manifold. Finally I discovered, I did not plug in the electric pump.
My wife's husband is the dumbest person out there. I deserve every joke and ridicule. Please tell all your friends when given a chance.
After I plugged the pump, and cleaned the P216C, no more messages. I drove the car with Autel plugged in, and watched. T between 75 and 87 deg, pump rev are 5% above the target.
Just curious if any issues with the coolant system assuming clogged heater core is the issue too would it cause issues with the hybrid system like overheating fast? My battery heats up fast and I was thinking the radiator/Condenser is supposed to cool both engine and hybrid coolant. Any info would help looking to address heater core air pockets
Hybrid cooling and engine cooling are separate. Most likely a dirty battery cooling fan or duct.
@@fixthatprius4980 sorry for late response. It ended up being a leaky cell from another battery a customer drove hours to me on a bad cell code. I repair these batteries so I just swapped out the area I saw high temp and fixed it. If anyone needs help how to fix these batteries feel free to reach out to me
I have the same issue NO heat but engine intermittent overheat
When you wash your car then use w40 to take the tiny water from conection IMO
You're not going to belive this. My Gray V is a level 5 with all available options. The electric A/C compressor went bad, causing issues with the adaptive cruise control. Everything went back to normal when I replaced the compressor.
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Man that was some back to the Future type shyt bro nice eeeee.. I got a shyty 07 chrysler 300 worse car ever. Talkin about thermostat location, it must be the same God damn inventors bastards.. problems continues man.. I have change the thermostat 3fing along with radiator and water hosing omfinggod.. sorry. Thank for the platform. but I will try that and let you no.. you make so much sense bro and if it don't work good knowledge base man..
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Mine is really making me wonder. I live in the south, so heat isn't needed all that much. Just a few months a year. Mine works (a 2011 model), but takes FOREVER to get hot. I can drive a good 20-30 minutes to work on city streets before it's even warm. I've looked at the OBDII and right around 178-180f it seems to get warm but it just takes for damned ever to get there. I figure ok must be thermostat stuck open and its cooling too much. But then why does it seem to be coming on right at the temp it's supposed to get warm at? Also isn't there an electric supplimental one that helps it out? I shouldn't be getting ice cold air up until engine is hot. I just refilled and bled the coolant and let it run 3 cycles of fan coming on and off. Seemed to bleed fine. I drove it around for a while and it seemed fine but same long as delay. I've seen the little red temp light blip on a few times when the car is fully warm and has been driving a while so I'm starting to worry about that water pump. Maybe just a bubble. Hopefully... 😧
Hey, did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same issue although I hear coolant “sloshing” behind the dash when I first start the car
@@witchywedges Yes it was the water pump. After I took it off and compared with the new one you could immediately tell the old one was really hard to turn by hand and the new one you could sneeze on it and spin the impeller wheel. Bad bearings inside it is my guess. So basically it was only partially working. Maybe even stuck but once the coolant warmed up it was able to move 🤷♂️ I did change the thermostat with it (they're sort of connected/same spot) so maybe the combo of both but the old thermostat seemed like it was fine.
@@VibnWavezDid you have a check engine light for the pump? I’m thinking it’s the water pump but there’s no code for it. I’ve seen lots of people say they replaced their’s and still overheats. I tried bleeding it yesterday without the rad resevoir cap on, but the fans never started spinning even after 30+ mins. Didn’t see any coolant in the res tank moving
@@witchywedges Oh about the bleeding mine never seemed to come on while bleeding either when I was filling with the new one. It must stay cool enough as-is unless pushed hard. I had the front end up on ramps about 10-12" and just let it run for about 30 mins heat on.
Hi, I need help. I have 2013 Prius. While driving on a slope, temperature goes high over 110 celsius. The head gasket was fixed before 1000km. It has no air in the coolant system. What else should I check to fix that annoying problem. I have a friend with the same car and the same problem. He did twice head gasket, changed thermostat, changed water pump, no air in the cooling system and still overheating. So I don't want to go the same way changing stuff with no effect. Please help. Any advise is welcomed.
I'm thinking heater core...
@@TeslaArray101 I bet it is
I have same issues with my Prius. I have a 2011. Changed out engine, water pump, sensor and thermostat. I have issue when I drive high speeds 70-80 mph up hill. Reservoir hot but not boiling like before. Temp red light would turn on or flash and then when I slow down it will eventually turn off. My mechanic replaced literally everything minus the radiator and the inverter coolant pump. Can anyone please help????
No codes or no check engine lights just the red light engine temperature turns on when driving high speeds up hill for long periods of time.
Is the issue temp sensor on EGR pipes?
My mechanic has replaced with all OEM parts. Any advice?
What year is a gen 3
Take bucket of fire with you.. 😹😹😹😹
Yes you can do it - when ppl nag, I wanna laugh at their fears.
When you’re making videos to show people what your doing or helping people--GET TO THE POINT. To much talking!!!
How much would you charge to install a 4th gen motor into my 2013 prius 3?
@fix that prius
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I would charge around $3500 including a low mileage engine.
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Egr cooler is better unplugged
Get to it. I'm here for information not your life's story