Electrified Garage: How the Pros install a Hansshow Tesla Model 3 Power Trunk Retrofit Kit
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- Опубліковано 24 кві 2020
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Professional install of Hansshow Power Trunk Kit for Tesla Model 3. - Авто та транспорт
Can’t believe I watched this entire video and don’t own a Tesla.
me too 😂😂
Me too?????.???
@@triducchiem4091 maybe my english is a little rusty ... did i say something wrong?😅
Cristiano Gardoni I was talking about read all three of us we don’t only to slow but we still watch
Same lol
Listen to this guy people. When it’s done right, it’ll work for ages.
I say this because I had a 1st gen Cadillac CTS. And in order to PROPERLY change out the headlight bulbs. You have to remove the front bumper. However, some have discovered that you could remove the air box for the driver side, and fuse box for the passenger. Both had its issues. The air box would some times not seal up tight. Some of those times, the engine wouldn’t stay running due to lack of flow over the MAP(I think) sensor. Or a week down the road it would start to act up because of the seal.
Then the fuse box would have its own problems, but most of the time they didn’t show up until months later.
Sure they saved an hour or so of time by not removing the bumper. But they caused themselves hours of headache down the road.
My point is, do it right the first time.
Your work is immaculate.
That was more a teaching class than an install video. Well done!
I'm more than okay with these long form step by step install guides. Will help me and others when we own our own!
Thank you soooo much in advance! I haven't even looked at the video yet but my wife's has been sitting on the floor for months 👍🏾
Thanks for creating the best install video for the Hansshow Tesla Model 3 power trunk kit. I followed your video to the "T" and had a great install. I installed the Hansshow v3 which eliminates the dreaded work in the upper rear seat/speaker area. Instead, the connections are made in the door lift using the handle and door latch areas which made it a lot easier. You guys are the best!
Best video I have watched for the Tesla power trunk installation and best have done! Not running the cable to the frunk is a life saver man! impressive work! thanks!
First Tesla i have ever driven or worked on rolled into our shop today and I am installing this kit.
provided instructions were very hard to follow, you guys are lifesavers! Thanks for the excellent walk through
very clear instructions and camera work - well done
Wow. Thank you for sharing your skills and wisdom here, Chad. I've done the occasional DIY projects on past vehicles, but have hesitated up to now with my Tesla, so this awesome peek behind the trim pieces gave me confidence to give something a try down the road.
This has to be the best & clean installation video & instructions I have seen so far. Great video👍
Really thorough tutorial I now feel confident attacking this Mod myself
58:36 Trunk trim piece removal vid! Yes! Thank you.
Great to watch a professional doing a proper job.
Super clean install. Nice work!
I am so happy with video. Especially the connector under the rear window and the 12V connection under the rear seats are GOLDEN , Thanks guys ! Having seen this makes me more confident to tackle it myself.
glad to take some mystery out of it and give you some confidence to handle it yourself!
What does the grey connector do, the one adjacent to the 12v connector under the rear seat. Why does it have be disconnected ?
Great video, I installed it yesterday with no issues. The Hansshow v4 kit does it’s piggybacking in the trunk lid rather than under the parcel shelf so it’s much easier!
Wow, that install was so involved and invasive, but IMMACULATE. I honestly would rather have it done this way than any other way. It's like it rolled out the factory like that. Pretty sure that install is going to last for ages.
You make this look so easy. Great Work. Just bought a MS.
Wow, excellent. Enjoyed watching you work. Most thorough and professional installation I've ever seen on a trunk kit.
Very very very interesting one. I'll share this work to my Tesla group friends in Telegram here in Spain. Probably, few people will understand your words but we all will understand the work you've done. That's what matters.
Some extra tips, I just installed this kit with the help of your great video. I really didnt want to use the rear light holes either. The only thing I did different: I found it better to not drill an extra hole but route the left wire to the exisiting hole on the right. (The cable is long enough) Also make sure to remove the metal bumper clips if the dont come off by themselves. The can scratch the paint when reinstalling. When i put my rearbumper bach a cable of the parking distance sensor became stuck between the inside of the bumper and the metal bar. I didnt notice this untill I was finished and had to remove the entire bumper again.
You have a great helper, I wish I had someone that can predicted my next move!
This is the best video I've seen showing this installation. Great job!
Best yet on install of that system
Great vid. You guys will help more owners get familiar with the vehicle. We need to fight this future where only the company can mod or detail your car. It also makes for better convos with techs who will do the work if the person doesn't have time. They can tell you guys exactly what they want.
That was an awesome Quality job!! - wish you guys were closer to MD! - Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. With this, I was able to install my kit without even referring to the instructions - with the only tweak being using the grommets behind the crash bar instead of drilling a hole.
The only thing that seemed to be different with my install is that the loom for the trunk/boot lid had plugs to intercept the button - which I assume replaced the wire you had to run into the shelf and remove that C pillar trim etc.
This convinced me that I don’t want this feature bad enough to do this.
Thank you for this! 🙌🏼
Very cool install.
wish you published this when I did this 2 months ago, took me over 10hrs in freezing cold driveway.
Thank you for showing the convenient 12v power source. I wish I had known about that when I did my TeslaOffer kit last year. I will definitely use it for when I add a tow hitch lighting module to my 2018 M3p.
Btw, did you forget the wires for the trunk area lights or do they not do that version anymore?
Great camera work at 45:00
2nd video on installing this kit I watched tonight (both gen 3). By far this is the best install, The under seat power tap separates you from the dyi-ers. Good video. And I don’t even own a Tesla M3 (yet).
Thank you. Power under the seat is so much easier.
I don’t have one either, but great video. Hope to get mine soon
I use those clips on assemblies at my shop. The galvanized ones like you are using sahhhhhk. There's a stainless version that is much more durable available through McMaster, but I think Fastener Warehouse in Portsmouth has them as well.
nice and clean
amazing, thank you
That's lot of Nice work! 👍
If it was for me, i sure would not do it, just because of that tonne of work! 😁
The first time I see a perfect installation of this chinese product. Thank you for making it how it should be.
Could have used some tips couple months before :)
Like decliping the harness to easily feed it through the rubber or that there is a 12V under the back seat, i did feed it the whole way to the 12V battery in the front (and that is why the wire is so long)
Electrified Garage, I have a totally more oem way to do it. I can understand that others may not want to do this because it does require drilling a new hole through the vertical side of the gutter area. The trunk wiring goes through a grommet on the right side which has a boot. the grommet as a lip on the inside and outside to keep out the water. It is also on the vertical to reduce water flow going on it. On the left side there is a similar flat area which is not used since there is no boot there. You can buy such a similar grommet/boot and make another smaller hole further up or down the vertical section with a 90 degree bend and will run the wiring right into the trunk area without going to the gutter and cramming under the seal etc. Much less unsightly, water safe and looks like it was oem. I found these on the internet. They are the only one I found that use a round hole which is easy to drill, rather than an oval hole. www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Window-Door-Jamb-Wiring-Boots-Pair-Accordion-Style-Z-4-Long-3-4-Hole/352208860385?hash=item520148b4e1:g:7pQAAOSwvdxdRK09 These have grommets at both ends, but you could just cut one end of and just use the one grommet and the boot downward with the wire coming out. The boot going in a downward direction would prevent water from getting in and it would not upward towards the grommet.
Nice job 👍😎
Great job. By far best video I’ve seen yet. On this install you didn’t do a foot sensor. When you do, where do you put that sensor?
44:10 would love a video on how to take the whole deck kid off. The deck kid rattles. If it came off, closed cell foam could be installed to get rid of the rattles.
I wonder if thats how you get to the 3rd break light?
The tiger in the background 😂😂
Luke Spagnolo no Carole baskins we’re harmed in the filming of this video
This installation is beautiful and awesome, thanks - foot sensor install please :)
Outstanding install video. Very thorough. One issue I would suggest is to make sure that you have the right Hansshow kit for your model 3. During the install I realized that the one harness that came with the Version 4 wasn't compatible with my 2020 (Sept) model 3.
That is correct, so the issue with all of these kits is that they change so rapidly it is very hard to keep track of them.
Brave to reinstall everything before testing the kit.
Phil Head, M.D. that’s the beauty of movie magic :-) it was tested before we started the install.
Chad's the man!
You can also get caps that are closed and cut a slit in them like the factory one, rather than having a hole with the grommet that you have to fill as much. Yes, then you mentioned about a tesla oem part to use instead. As I was typing.
@14:00 You should have de burred this sheet metal a little for finger and wire safety. Excellent video and professional attention, thank you.
It’s a shame you’re not in Florida you do an excellent job
What a difference to all the home gamers we see installing these...
Unrelated. But any maintenance that is needed for the sun roof after 4 years? Or any ideas how to best kept it?
Xcube The roof is completely glass, no mechanical aspect to it, if that’s what you’re asking.
JoneTech i have a Model S with Mechanical sun roof... old models had them
Xcube I know, but since you were asking under a video of a Model 3, I assumed you were asking a question about the model 3.
JoneTech yeah i forgot to mention it was about Model S sunroof.. thanks
1:05:35 i’m pretty sure even if you don’t have the heated seats you should still be careful to make sure those aren’t still connected because it’s a software thing... pretty much every model three has the hardware connected.
... no doubt the time lengthb on the video thumbnail...
... and now you know why you got that quote for the installation service only.
Without your video I would have never found out where to find the tailgate sensor connector under the hatch
This is awesome. Would you be willing to share details on the hardware you used (grommet size, heat shrink terminal, etc..)? I will be attempting a diy for this as you guys are too far away 😀
Don’t follow the drilling through the body part! There are grommets under the crash bar where you can pass the actuator cables through. Other than that it’s a great tutorial.
He claims the drivers side is occupied by a drain wire, but its purple and we have done it in that plug ??
@@rpmtesla the existing hole with gromet is not on the side of the car, it's under the crash bar. There are two of these, one on each end of the crash bar. Check out around 15:30 into this vid ua-cam.com/video/7ytE7fd45b0/v-deo.html
@@michaelbergmark3549 Thanks for the tip. I found the two grommets you mentioned, and used a hole punch on them and put my cables through those.
I have a video on my channel on how to move that annoying clip under the white trim, you have to turn the clip 90 degrees then pull out the first tab, then another 90 to get the second one out.
YEAHHHH CHAADDD
Awesome! Would love a video on installing a tow bar! 🙏
Do you mean a trailer hitch? You can actual use this video for removing the bumper. Then its just a matter of 12 nuts and bolt it up and reattach the bumper. Very straight forward install on something like that.
Electrified Garage yes! But what about the electronics?
@@ElectrifiedGarage what about the electronics for a pre-tow hitch model 3? I have a 2018 LR RWD and there is no harness. Curious about all the aftermarket options for adding it to tow a small utility trailer.
Anthony Stanisci trailer lighting harness is what you’re talking about? We will be making this video with the trailer hitch in the next few weeks.
@@ElectrifiedGarage thank you!
I’m not real crazy about using butyl for sealing like that. Using a membrane grommet is always the safest bet, and it gives an OEM look. McMaster sells them, if you wanted to try them out.
Why not run both cables through the same hole? Follow the existing wiring across the rear bumper?
You should keep the bumper off until you put the kick sensor 2018 earlier models you have to remove a complete bumper however later 2018 up they have a square top off rear bottom bumper easy access to mouth your foot sensor.
I see why because you're not installing foot sensor version 2 compared to version 3 is so much easier to install you didn't have to mess with the C pillar you wire straight to the trunk lid area. That it. Also I prefer to put the Box controller on the left hand side where there's a ground near but also it's a straight shot to the power supply need a driver foot rest area there's a positive bolt waiting to say hello to you. Also best install an extra momentary switch on the left hand side for most convenient likely you'll be tapping it on close trunk on way to your driver side instead of reaching all the way over to the top right-hand side or lower if you're already on the driver side. Feel free to see my video on my channel easier more clraner installation modifying version 2 to version 3 Hannshow power trunk setup.
Installed the frunk kit today on 2018 Model 3. Worked great initially, but now the frunk lid is stuck open. Tried power down, trying with debugging cable and without, still stuck open. Any suggestions? Thanks
Thanks so much for this video. I am working up the nerve to install my own Hansshow. I'll keep watching until I feel comfortable. Is the the foot switch hard to do?
Francis Neal it is not hard to do. We will be making a follow up video about the foot sensor.
IMPORTANT !!!!!
Most uploads like this one is extremely good at showing how to disassemble bits and pieces... but be aware that most of the UA-camrs does not have experience with stuff like routing cables and securing them.
THIS video however shows the skill - Thank you "Electrified Garage" for not misleading folks :)
In the Hansshow manual it CLEARLY states that is is forbidden to pass the strut cables through the rear light opening. So many other UA-camrs do this. Cable gets all squished and it WILL slowly get cut but that sharp opening edge as the car moves along (thousands of small vibrations). And drop tray or not you have still created an opening into the cabin that should be there.
If you don't want to take off the rear bumper you can do the following...
Strutcables can be routed further down and into the rear bumber (large openings far left and right. Down on the rear side of the bottom boot compartment there are 2 blueish rubberseals on each side (one small and one big). Cut the middle of the small blue seal to fit one strutcable and the other to fit both strut- and footsensorcable (if you bought that). Make sure the cables does not jump around in the rear bumber. When you are satisfied with the cable routing then add a little silikoneglue (or whatever) to close whatever opening there might be between blue seals and cables.
I received the Trunk kit from Hansshow in June 2020 and is is now installed.
I've ran into an issue where the trunk has power and the pressing the (OEM) button to open is activating on screen, yet the trunk won't open. What can be wrong?
I finished installing the hansshow trunk kit be. And tapped the power from that same place of rear passenger seat 12v. Everything works. Now the vehicle is showing a error message "vehicle is consuming more energy while in idle"
I didn't see that msg when u are in the car. Is it BC of the new updates or sth I did wrong?
pro tip...if you hate how loud the speaker is simply put tape over the hole in the top, it sounds a heck of a lot more factory
I'm pretty sure the charge port in UK is on the same side as the US and the rest of Europe is LHD and definitely had the charge port on the left as in the US
jep, left side as well
Wow, great work. How much do you charge for this install?
I just did the install today and now my 12v battery is dead. I did the power to the 12v connector under the rear seat thing but that bolt is weird. The washer comes up with it and I couldn't get the power terminal connector to slide between the nut and the washer so I put it at the bottom. Does that matter? I was doing this project for most of the day and I'm wondering if I hurt the 12v by doing that. I didn't turn climate off so it was on for hours like that, and I had the car powered off quite a bit but I read that can also hurt the 12v because the main battery isn't supporting it then. Ugh. :(
Wish I knew about that 12v connection under the seat when I did mine in December. Alot easier than running to the front. Note, you can open and close the trunk with earlier versions of the Hannshow kit from the touch screen also. It just doesn't flash 'open/opened'. Still shows the 'open' option. Only difference with V3 you have is the flashing between status as that tells you it is indeed Opened. Earlier versions you just need to look back and see. Also, adjusting the soft kit is from the main controller. But mine pulls in a bit too hard and makes a latching sound after closing (pulls centre of trunk lid in too much also). Hannshow hasn't been able to help with that.... wondering what you did different.
Please look to the end of the video for adjusting the latch and striker. It sounds like it's not adjusted properly and is causing it to bind up.
@@ElectrifiedGarage thanks for the response. Really appreciate it. I did all those adjustments prior. Initially Hannshow said to take the bumper stops off, but I found that to marr the paint on the bumper. They told me to put them back in, but then the suction was super obvious. If there was a spring adjustment on the latch, that would solve my problem. I have the latch set as far outward as possible and have come to accept as it is for now. The system works very well otherwise and very oem
hey, why did you use double sided tape for the control box instead of the nut and bolt that came with the kit?
The control box does not have tabs or a mount. Its just a square box, the double sided tape came with the kit to mount the module.
What model 3 year was this? My kit came with a CAN BUS.. I see you did not install this? Do you have to? My wont even fit my 2018 model 3.
Thanks
Yes, the CAN bus needs to be connected if the kit requires it. This is not that hard to do, the interface is behind the center console or the drivers side kick panel depending on kit make/variant, this kit has a plug in harness and did not require CAN connection.
How long do these 3M pads work until the glue dissolves and the modules rattle around in there? Better to ziptie them in place?
V4 seems to need to get CAN signal from under rear hvac vents. Did you install V3?
Me too but I have a reservation at one
NOTE TO EVERYONE. I HAVE INSTALLED MY STRUT WIRING WITHOUT RUNNING IT DOWN THE TRUNK AND GOING IN THE TAILIGHT (BAD IDEA) OR DOWN TO THE TRUNK THROUGH AN EXISTING GROMMET. I obtained double sided grommets with a tube like the factory grommet that goes up to the trunk lid. My wiring comes out through the vertical wall (I had to drill a hole of course and had the rear deck top out) in the rain channel/gutter through this grommet/tube just behind (towards the back of car) the factory on the right side and alone of course on the left drivers side. Just above/forward to where the strut bottom attaches. The wire only comes down a couple of inches then to the strut. Looks like a factory installation. Not sure why nobody else I have heard of has done this.
Any reason you don't go through the two blue grommets on the rear of the car, if you have a post 2019 car, rather than drilling a hole?
You can do that, there's no reason why that wont work other than size of hole VS plug size depending on the make/ model of kit you are using.
anyone have a link for grommet and sealant?
edit: found a grommet set. anyone know what kind of sealant? is that rtv?
Would you kind enough to make a video comparing this v3 kit with the more recent v4 (with canbus plug) ? thanks
the only diference is, you dont have to mess with all the C-Coloumn stuff(its a pain!) instead you just remove the backseat und the cover underneath the backseat airvents... there the canbus goes
Is this a V45 kit? Seems my V4 hanshow kit requires cutting and is missing the cable shown in 43:22.
What brand of plastic non-marring tool set do you use? I need to get a set off Amazon and I'd like to get a sturdy set for future work.
Is it necessary to put any protectant on the bare metal from when you drilled the hole? Like a primer or something? Or is that rubber seal + location enough to be safe to prevent rust? (i assume this part is steel and not aluminum)
Please go back and look in the video. That part is aluminum not steel. We did use a puddy sealant in additional to the rubber grommet.
Could you do a power frunk on a model S?
Finished my install of v4 hansshow power trunk this weekend. Your video was so helpful. Much appreciation. I’m curious how you would route the canbus cable that is part of v4.
Hi, when you fitted the V4 kit did you use the power under the rear seat? And did it work ok? I tried this but the system does not work - control box lights on but that’s all. I’ve heard that the power from the rear seat goes to sleep’ so not sure if that’s my problem...?
This is not that hard to do, the interface is behind the center console or the drivers side kick panel depending on kit make/variant, this kit has a plug in harness and did not require CAN connection.
I installed hannshow V10 on my TM3 2018 on box was no instructions, so from OEM outside bottom it works and from installed Hannshow bottom it works from main screen nothing from Tesla app it closes only looks like the last version sucks however I have 3 male plugs that nowhere to plug them well one of them it’s for kick sensor that I didn’t install other two no clues no info about it
I had a 2006 Audi A3 Sportback for 12 years, and it had a large manual hatch. It was no problem for me open and close it, and I could accomplish both faster than anyone with an electric hatch. So, why does this car's tiny trunk lid need a a power kit?
15:21 What specific sealant is good for this application?
Great video. The best thing I've ever seen for installing the de Hansshow Power Trunk Kit. I only miss the installation of the kick sensor. Will there be a DIY video for the installation of the Hansshow Power Frunk V3 Kit soon?
Great job, i wish i watched that vid before i started with just watching the hansshow video.... sad me, i bought a v3 kit and the video doesnt show the right cable placement... this vid would prolly have saved me 5hours of swearing :S
@elefrified Garage any chance of a Foot-Sensor Adding Video soon?
At 10:28 I may have heard "keep the wire taunt" ? Is that an east coast pronunciation of taut?
Great video instructions. I'm going to order this kit. Do they give you credit for us using your 15% discount code? Jus want to make sure you get credit for referral.
Great video .. I have finished installing my Hansshow Power trunk in my model 3 and connected power to the 12v PCS connection under the seat as in your video. But i have a slight problem - sometimes when the car is locked the power truck stops working - it wont open at all.. then if i unlock the car it works again. It seems as though if the car has been driven for a while the trunk still works for a little longer - im wondering if this is because the 12v battery is being charged for a while after driving and power is disconnected from this PCS connection when charging is finished cutting the supply to the power trunk?
Have you had any issues with the truck not opening when the car is locked/asleep?
I've done a little more testing.. and have confirmed that the 12v PCS connection does indeed power off when the 12v battery is not being charged, so when this happens the trunk stops working. I have now moved my 12v connection to the VC Right connection and it now stays on and works all the time...
So connecting to the PCS connection under the rear passenger seat will stop working? If u bring it up the VC right, where are you get the power source from?
If you look at this video ua-cam.com/video/rDYbvI32OBE/v-deo.html at 2:10 he talks about VC right - there are 2x Thick Red cables connecting to the module - the one on the left is where i connected the power cable for the trunk (its the bottom connection when mounted in the car). VC Right is a circuit board/module that is mounted on the right side of the kick panel just in front of the door - you need to remove some trim in the footwell to get to it. Also, id advise disconnecting the 12v battery + lead before making the connection as it is always live and you dont want to risk shorting it to any metal parts of the car!
All your wires seem to have plugs of one kind or another all ready attached. My two (2) harneses have 5 wire leads with no plugs or labels. In the larger bundle it's next to the tail gate butonwire. In the smaller bundel it's in a 'Y' marked motor plug and handle. I assume they go to the interior trunk lights but how do I conect? Any assistance you can give will be greatly appreciated.
So I have a couple of questions, What brand of kit are you using? What version of it also. Some of the company's have created new revisions of the unit / wiring. From what you are describing, it sounds like an earlier revision where 2 of the harnesses need to be snaked up the the trunk harness and connected in the lid of the trunk instead of connecting under the rear shelf area.
@@ElectrifiedGarage You were exactly right. I checked the instructions that came with the kit and saw where the wires were joined once you phish them to the middle of the trunk lid. Thanks again for your help and patience.
Is this a new Hansshow kit? I have mine but haven't installed it yet. Other videos show multiple wires and plugs going to the hatch and nothing under the deck lid.
NewFoundTerror you probably the same newer version as shown in this video. Only one wire to the hatch. Check out frosty fingers UA-cam channel as well.
it is sort off wierd that Tesla dosent offer something like this as official retro fit upgrade. like they do whit homelink on model 3/Y or model S security package and center console or model x tow package. it dosent seem so hard to do and it woud get them one more revenue stream.
Your power source will go off if door opens long period. You need to attach to the battery.