Sonoff Mini vs Shelly One - Head to Head Tiny Smart Switch Comparison
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- #Banggood13thAnniversary
It’s time for a head-to-head, mano-a-mano, battle royal between the Shelly 1 and the Sonoff Mini. If you want the short version, the Shelly 1 wins.
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www.amazon.com/shop/drzzs
Buy
Shelly One:
Direct from Shelly - drzzs.com/ShellyOne
Amazon - amzn.to/2Ktstvl
Sonoff Mini:
Direct from iTead - shrsl.com/1qmjj
Amazon - amzn.to/2Z3NB0H
Banggood - drzzs.com/SonoffMini
Tools:
Laser Temp - amzn.to/31GkiCZ
Heat Camera - drzzs.com/HeatCam
Final Recommendation:
Sonoff is cheaper, but not by a lot. Especially when you consider all the advantages the Shelly has. Shelly has been out for a while now, and at first they seemed hard to get and expensive. They have certainly solved the distribution problem, with their most popular products available with Prime shipping from Amazon, and when you really compare what you’re getting the higher price, doesn’t seem that much higher anymore. No, Shelly isn’t paying me to say this. - Наука та технологія
Thanks - have been looking at these for a project in a commercial building.
Metal, square, backboxes are the norm in the UK - and the advantages in terms of the (now-available) temperature sensor add-on is fairly compelling.
MQTT without the need for custom firmware is also a really good feature.
Great comparison video. I just received my order of 10 Sonoff Mini's yesterday. Can't wait to start playing.
They are good little devices.
Glad to see you're still cranking out great content. I have a ton of Shelly devices in my home at this point. Great that Sonoff has put out a competitive device, but I came to the same conclusion and haven't bothered to buy and install any of the Minis. Cheers.
hey Jay!
ya, Shelly is certainly a great device.
I was surprised how close the prices are on these two items.
The rating of the relay and the UL listing seal the deal for me and if I'm working on someone else's project there is no question which one to buy.
The 12 Vdc and solar panels is also BIG. 12V bulbs and 12V controls mean no power loss through inverters.
Good video. Thanks!
Good video. Over the last 40 years as an industrial electrician. I have seen many electrical connections (like on the devices you tested) get hot, burn the insulation of the wire, melt connection points of switches ,receptacles, terminal strips and such. You get the point. What I would like to see you do is this. On a 15 amp circuit. Hookup a load using 14 awg wire (torqued to the right specs on the terminals) of say 15 amps on the 16 amp maximum rated Shelly 1. Shoot it with your infrared tool hourly. maybe 8 to 10 hours. Record the results. That would be a great test. Thank you for all the great videos!
I can do that. let me work on setting it up.
@@gutrali A thermocouple is better for this kind of testing since it can be positioned where the fault is expected. Also remember that circuit breakers can carry their nominal current "indefinitely" and only trip at a higher load so don't expect a 16a load to be protected.
SPOILER: I put a 14.5a load on both. The Shelly lasted 8hrs and heated up some, but not extremely hot, but the Mini died after less than 2 hrs. I don't think it was the relay that died because it won't even boot up now. I'll be interested to see what ya'll think might have been the weak link.
@@DrZzs I would look for melted solder at the input screw terminals; seems to be a weak spot. It isn't always obvious; may just be a crack around the through hole,
@@DrZzs Hi. Did the Shelly died after de 8hrs? Or not?
Nice comparison!
I was about doing a comparison like that for myself as I want to convert several standard light switches into smart switches and do not want to lose WAF points :D so you saved my time ;) Thanks!
excellent!
Was just about to hit the buy button on some Shelly Ones but will hold off. i too really like the cloud and webserver interface, but a must have for my use case is to have user sharing. I need to be able to give other people access to the devices. Outside that constraint it it looks really good!
Great video, another interesting factor would be standby power draw. This would also provide some insight into how hot the devices would get.
Those are both on the list for the "what I missed" video :)
@@DrZzs Is there a link in the description to the "what i missed" video?
Reposting since this was buried in a reply.
Shelly definitely supports n-way switches, but you can run into issues with persistent power in the right box. You can tap into persistent power from other regular switch in the box, if you have one.
Another solution is to replace all the n-way switches with momentary switches (you can convert a standard switch to a momentary switch for free). You can then use the your neutral wire for neutral (just pass it through each box) one hot/load wire as a hot wire (I use black), and the other hot/load wire to carry the switched momentary power (I use the red wire for this). Attach the black and red wires to each switch and continue each wire to the next switch. Use the black wire (which is persistent hot) to power the shelly and provide power to the "I" port. Attach red to the "SW" port. Attach "O" to the light and "N" to neutral (white). Then, configure the Shelly app for momentary switching. This method should work for any n-way configuration.
Excellent!
Thanks!
Can I connect them to line - line voltage instead of line - neutral voltage? Because in our place, we don't have neutral. Our electrical connection is Line 1 and Line 2.
I use the Shelly 2.5, which also has temperature monitoring and cutoff. I used Sonoff for many of my switches, and it was great for the time. It is inconvenient to take it apart to get to the GPIO/Serial pins. The thing I love about the Shelly is that I just plug in my pre-made connector (for Shelly 2.5 it’s a finer pitch than Shelly 1), and flash Tasmota. I can do 4 in 2 minutes. As you point out, the stock firmware even can be used as is, but I like to ensure there is nothing that can “call home” in my smart home.
What awg is that stranded wire you used in your pulling test?
hi there, about the AMP, I have 15m of WS2811 60led/m, can I use sonnoff for regular swithing? its a 12v strip adresseble leds
With the 12V option on the shelly it might be nice to make it automatically start my vehicle in the morning in winter months here in michigan.
can the shelly 1 be used to connect it to a linear actuator with a 12dc without the need for anything else? I'd like to make something to operate a chicken door coop. and perhaps connect a solar panel to recharge a battery.. any thoughts/recommendations would be most welcome please.
A broken pull chain switch on my ceiling fan and this video inspired me to make a few modifications to my ceiling fan. I bought my replacement fan switch, and went back for a second one which I'll explain later. I exposed my wiring in the lighting portion of my fan. there wasn't enough space to include a mini sofoff, so I added it to the compartment above it, but that isn't where my pull switch was. So I drilled a hole to relocate the switch and the wires of the pull chain are both wired to the sonoff mini sw connections. Rest was simple, wired the power input and the output to the lights. Now for the second pull chain switch. I wanted to add a second mini sonoff to control the fan itself, but that pull chain changes the speed of the fan, so I added another pull chain to control the power to the fan. Adding the additional switch takes up the room needed for the switch, but the location of the sonoff mini would better fit in the upper mount box near the ceiling, but i had to run two wires from that box to the new switch. So now I have the switch on the wall turned on, a sonoff mini to control the fan, and one to control the lights, seperated from the fan, and now they both work through the switches, and Alexa. Love automation!
Are you able to change fan speed? It'd be pretty cool to simply say "Alexa: turn fan on low" instead of trying to guess what speed it's currently on
I am trying to get Home Assistant to work with shelly. It is the first item I am adding to my ha setup. I cannot find it in the store. I tried adding the folder and files as it says in the read me for shelly. Also added shelly: in the file. I am not sure where to do that. I appreciate your help.
Wouldn't the 120v problem go a way if you open up the jumper pin area and switch to 12v mode?
Newbie question warning. lol I'm still binge watching so you might've done a video on this and I missed it but.....
is using a Shelly or Sonoff type of device a way to make a "dumb" appliance smart? For instance my garage door or spa/pool. Can I use these devices to connect to them and make them smart and use with a hub like HA?
Sorry if this is a very newbie question but I understand how to make lights go on and off or your temperature up and down but I am missing the bigger stuff like garage doors and pools. Thanks a bunch!
Problem wiht de 10A or 16 A use the contactor in the sonoff mini.¿?
What about the power consumption?
I just subscribed. First because of the quality and depth of your presentation. Second because of your original and non trivial personality, and third … BECAUSE you’re one of not many people who don’t ask for well deserved like/subscribe! Love it man, this was the first video I watched with you, I’m sure there will be many more! 😉
Can any of them dimmer lights at the same time?
Do I need natural wire both one working
The Shelly switch is using the mains, while the Sonoff is using an isolated switch. This make it easy add the Shelly to existing wiring. Adding a Shelly1 to an existing 3-way, put it in circuit at the light end of circuit, let the existing N-way control powering the light, connect to the Shelly switch input, and the Shelly control the light.
for sure!
I'm setting up some different 3-way examples for the next video "things I missed" So far I can only come up with one scenario where the Mini works in a 3-way setup. Haven't finished yet, so I could be wrong about that. Shelly is more flexible because you can also use the relay isolated from the circuit powering the device.
I don't think that's a perfect solution. I seem to remember some electrical code issues with having 2 separate circuits in on device, since you might switch off one circuit breaker, but not the other, and think you're safe, but you really aren't because the other circuit is still on.
The antenas comparison would be a good additional criteria.
Are you even allowed to use flexible cable in permanent installations? I think here in Germany it is against code. At the very least you should use end ferrules.
strenght is not that relevent. once plugged, it shouldn't move that much. great review anyway. helped me a lot in my choice. thanks a lot DrZzs
Great video doc. I won't use Sonoff in an in wall setup. I have a couple of wall plugs but I am replacing those with ones I can buy here is oz.
Hey Tony!! How's things?
Someone was asking about Certifications for these devices in Oz. What do you know about that? I recall you buying a whole box of Shelly's way back when they first came out. That's probably why I couldn't get any!
Hi, Good video - thanks.
I think you missed one thing, sonoff has an external antenna which may be good if you using in still box, like in Ireland.
Still box?
I love the fact that the switch updates the app with its on/off state. Also that the switch still works without wifi.
great that it works without wifi for sure!
Since forums nor reddit have been helpful, maybe you can help. I have a Shelly 1 that activates a siren in case of panic. I've gotten it to work as a doorbell buzzer, by configuring it to auto-turn off in 0.5 seconds. So, when I press the button, it signals the alarm siren to start, and then it remains on until I press the button again. This is the way it should work, so I have no issues with that. Were the problem arises is that after the 0.5 second delay the light on the shelly or Alexa or Google turns OFF even if the siren is still blaring. If I press the button again it send the pulse and stops. In other words this is not a switch with an on/off state, but a buzzer that you press once to turn on and once to turn off. How do I set up the Shelly 1 to send the 0.5 second pulse and indicate it is ON until it is pressed again? I would really appreciate your help guys. TIA Alex
Does it work with Amazon Alexa?
Like the way you compared the two....one question though.....If the shelly is UL certified already....why isn't the UL logo silk screened on the casing...... I worked in Design and the guy who does our certification will tell me whether it passed or not...If it did then the UL logo would have been silk screened already which i don't see it on their casing....There are cases where products had to be manufactured and the silk screening couldn't be changed since there were dead lines to meet...So at the end once everything was ready to ship...We would add a little sticker with the UL logo to show everyone that it does comply.....To this date I only see the shelly 2.5 as being UL listed.......Please do correct me if I'm wrong
Here is one of my designs that I design back in June of 2003...ITS STILL UP AND RUNNING ...this is unheard of in the telecom industry.
www.positronpower.com/TeleLite_Fiber_Optic_Isolation/index.php
1. Do I see it right that with Shelly you can control a blind with up AND down? But with the Sonoff mini you can't?
2. Is Shelly capable of Zigbee? (like the Sonoff ZBmini)
can Shelly switch only contact but no current?
How about wifi signal strength?
Great video! I had to make this decision the other day. I ended up buying the sonoff mini since I was able to get them at a discounted price. I bought 13 of them for $6.32 a piece from banggood. I wasn't able to find the shelly 1 any cheaper than $12/piece from amazon. I would have paid an extra dollor or two for the shelly, but not $6 more.
That's a smart decision. You'll be happy with the Mini. They are still a big improvement over the Basic. Get some Temp and Motion sensors to make use of those GPIO pins on the Mini.
In the UK a Shelly1 from Amzon is $18 and a Sonoff mini is $8
I'd suggest buying direct from Shelly if you're in the UK. They make them in Bulgaria, so you should get them pretty quickly, and you'll pay less than you do from Amazon UK I'm sure.
I'm using 5xShelly1pm for controllyng an electric boiler and 4x mini split ac. Two shellys died in around 6 months while no load on them wich is odd.
Can either of these run off 9 volt dc?
Thanks for the review, pretty fair. I'm going with the Shelly One.
The two biggest deciding factors for me were the 16A rating, and more importantly, that the relay in the Shelly was switching a different line than where it gets power from. That allowed me to place it in an electric baseboard heater, which don't have a neutral line. One 240v wire from the heater went into the I/O and a separate 120v wire powered it from a nearby outlet. Does the Sonoff Mini act the same way or is it like the Basic, where the line going in is the same one that gets switched on the way out?
It's like the basic. the relay switches the same circuit it gets power from. I should have included that. I messed up bad not talking about that.
I can't find a Shelly 1 on Amazon in a single pack. The link above is only for doubles. Do you know of a way to order a single unit from a domestic source that is the price you mention in the video?
No, they are only in 2 pack from Amazon. That's where I got the price, $24 for 2 pack.
So with the Shelly, ON will still be the ON/UP position on a standard US light switch? Or is it like the Sonoff and just looks for a change of state?
No. It'll be like a 3 way switch. If you change the state with the app or HA, then the next time you use the manual switch it'll have to switch in the opposite direction. So sometimes up will be on and sometimes down will be on.
Hi mate could you please do a video using a electronic magnetic bolt lock with the sonoff mini where of the door is open the bolt stays retracted and when the door is closed the lock locks but can be unlocked from your phone n add a way of unlocking from outside without your phone if you forgot it or something
Preferably with this lock ebay number 114157933998 thank you
This is quite late now, but the fact that the Ground is referenced to L+ does not matter as the 120/230V is there compared to earth. Unless you ground the sensor you’ll be fine. I can guarantee the sonoff has the same problem even though the gnd is not connected directly to L+ i would still not touch it while powered from mains. So it should be equal for both in terms of having L+ potential on the ground pin in the programing interface.
How about wifi range? It being installed into a metal conduit box
good point. I'm putting it on the list for the "things I missed" video to follow :)
Second this comment :)
@@DrZzs could you give us a quick answer in advance over here? ;)
I just did a couple test for the follow-up video. SPOILER ALERT: The shelly had a better Wifi connection.
How is the shelly being installed into a metal conduit box ? As far as I can tell atleast in Europe, you install it behind a plastic switch, inside a plastic box.
Can I put this in and outlet box to control the outlet instead of a switch? If so, cool..and do you know of a wiring diagram on how to do it?
yes you can. That is actually what these are intended for exactly. They both come with wiring diagrams that are better than anything I could reproduce. Either one will serve your purpose I'm sure.
Good luck!
Great just ordered a couple of shellys
You'll be happy with them I expect.
Connection existing wall switches it is easier on the shelly especially if you have more than one in the room
Great review. Thanks.
Another fantastic video. Thank you!
Thanks!
Security especially the cloud. Shelly is stored in EU or US depending on your location. I thought Sonoff is stored in Chinese servers.
Other point is ecosystem. What different type can you buy and integrate from each?
OK, what AWG wire was that? Wall switches for lighting in US will be 14. If you used #12 then no wonder it didn't hold well.
It should have been 14. it was a spare piece I had from replacing switches.
In the video you say it’s UL listed. But the Amazon description (and Shelly website) doesn’t say that. You’d think if it was UL compliant that they would want to say so in the description to increase sales.
Shelly1 UL version is under production and will be available in Amazon from beginning of September.
Any ideas where I could get my hands on Shelly1 in Canada?? I could wait a month until they show up on Amazon but Amazon.ca is another story. I think i'll order couple of Sono minis from china and tinker with them in HA
I'd suggest direct from Shelly.cloud.
Do they not ship to canada?
Great video, as usual!
Now the real question, do you have a link for that awesome PCB ruler?
haha!
That was a gift for PCBway's anniversary. I got a t-shirt too but it's a little small so Dawson got it. www.pcbway.com :)
What about comparing the installation and setup?
Sonoff let me press next after inputting a password to my router that had an extra space at the end ... then went to pairing attempt, and after 3 minutes, said "failed". 2 hours wasted. but finally removed the space.
Just what I needed, thanks!
excellent!
Thank you for making this video! I was watching specifically to find out about the light switch connection... do you know if the sonoff works like the shelly with the off-on-off or on-off-on thing? If you have a shelly connected to a light switch you probably know what I mean, if not, that is when the light is on and the switch is off and you want the light off, you have to turn the switch from off to on then off again. And vice versa in the opposite state. It's not a huge deal and only causes a micro-pause but its not the most graceful implementation especially for guests and perhaps selling a home. Thank you again!
Better way is in shelly to enable momentary switch and install a spring in the switch
If you change the Shelly setting to "edge" it will change the power state of the device connected to the output port every time you hit the switch, regardless of current orientation.
The best connector is the rising clamp connector no competition the rising clamp winds hands down!!
You forgot to mention compatibility and speed of response with smartthings and Google home etc
Thanks for that video, what about security rate of devices / manufacturers? (you asked what else do we think is missing in this comparison ;-))
good point.
I trust Shelly because I know Dimitar personally and he's a good dude. The folks in charge at Sonoff are probably good people too, but they are hidden behind layers of a large company.
Hey DrZZs, I follow you since a while and all your videos are really the bible for me, including this one... and thinking about this, I am always really impressed about the quality of your video editing. Could you share the apps you use to make video editing? Sorry for the question a little out of topic but you always impress me.
Thanks!
ha! Thanks .
I use Final Cut Pro for all my editing. I use just a few transitions and effects; Slide and Drop Shadow mostly. FCP is only for Mac and it costs $300. If I were going to start over I would use DaVinci Resolve instead. It is free (with a couple minimal limitations to the free version), but even more capable than FCP. There are a lot of tutorial videos on how to use it.
I also use Streamlabs OBS for live streams and to capture some of the footage I use for these videos. It is also free. It combines my webcams, screen capture, and mic. That saves me a lot of editing time. Without OBS I'd have to film all those things separately and put them all together during the editing phase. This lets me do more videos faster.
I've been saying I need to make a "how to make a how-to video" video. Maybe I will do that soon.
@@DrZzs you are my myth ... thanks for the good explanation. I'll maybe try to do a video with the nice automations I made thanks to your tutorial... even with my bad english :D
points for who noticed the misspelling of "temperature" :) at 6:35. Nice vid as usual.
Just you, and this video is over a year old; Well done, sir. Hats off.
Congratulations, here are your internet points.
Do they have something that can used to control a 240V Hot Water Heater? Pretty sure it's 20Amp
hmmm, I don't think I've seen a 20amp smart relay. 8-16 amps is usually the max. I'm sure they exist, I just haven't used any myself.
thank you, very interesting!
I felt like I was paying attention the whole time, but am unsure which wireless protocol these devices are using? Is it Zigbee? Z-Wave? WiFi? or perhaps a combination of these.
WiFi!
Thanks. You got quite a workout pulling out those wires. :-)
I think I got a hernia...
;p
@@DrZzs connect the one wire to both devices next time
Seems like the UL listing for the Shelly is rather suspect given the ease of pulling a standard gauge wire out of the connection and the lack of isolation of the GPIO pins. However, I do agree its a big plus if the use is for some sort of permanent mounting in an electrical box.
That was my biggest surprise.
Maybe they will address that in the future.
I'm glad they have the UL listing because it protects me if I ever have to fight with my insurance company, but honestly, the whole UL listing thing is a racket. If you have a decently built device and you pay the fees you get the listing. I'm glad Dimitar was willing to play that game and get the UL Cert, and I'm very confident that the Shelly is a safe device. I do hope they change connectors someday. Until then, I'll just be extra careful with my wires.
If they do that need to change every part in the device, and final price will be completely different. We has experience with Shelly and to pass UL we need to choose only UL terminals, PCB, relays, varistor, capacitors, ABS material.... If we found UL certified terminal connector will change it, but unfortunately the choose are very limited.
Awesome! Another great video.
thanks
Can you show us how the Sonoff mini fits in a single gang workbox beside a light switch vs the Shelly? That's my use case for many of these. 🙂
ya, I can do that. Stay tuned :)
@@DrZzs Sweet! Thank you, that would be awesome!
Done. Video is filmed. Will be editing like crazy the rest of this week to get it out ASAP.
The answer on the switchbox-fitting question is that they both fit fine. The Shelly is a little smaller, but it requires some extra wires which take up more space. So my conclusion is a Draw on this point. They both fit very nicely, neither is significantly better or worse.
@@DrZzs Awesome, thank you sir! Good to hear they both fit well. I think I'll go ahead and get a few ordered then. 😁
You didnt test the antenna... how dose the range compare?
That'll be in the next "Things I missed" video :)
I would have been interested in the temperatures after lets say 1hr, 2hr or 3hr with at least 10A (better 16A) current.
I can try that.
Awesome video, I like this format... Head to head
Thanks
I want to do more like this.
What other devices match up well enough to compare them?
@@DrZzs light bulbs, automation hubs, remote hubs, you could even bring someone in from OH and see what's changed
@@DrZzs pros/cons of vmware/proxmox/virtualbox/others
When are they going to add a dimmer function? or did I miss that feature.
Shelly has a dimmer device they are going to show at the German CES conference next month. Neither of these devices can do dimming.
I have never seen that Switchbox in the Netherlands.
Looks smart, though!
I've never seen the Netherlands :)
Hello there,
I have seen your work, its pretty incredible.
However, my application is that, I want a smart plug that should stay off when power is cut to it(reboot).
Means the smart plug should turn on normally, by turning it on by the mobile app or online app, or manual button and if the power is lost to it and when the power comes back the relay should not turn on(it should stay off).
Smart plug could be turned on manually by app or button and the plug should remain on until it is turned off manually or if the power is lost to it.
Its simple I just don't want the relay to turn on when power is lost and restored. I have to manually turn it on whenever there is power outage.
The place this device is going to be installed experiences frequent outages, and I am using this smart plug to turn on a contactor to a motor.
If you could guide me to make this, or buy a ready made smart plug like that, would be really appreciated.
Pretty funny review! One issue I had - when you say that for Shelly "you can just pop-up" it open it's not exactly correct - the case is glued, so don't try it.
This is great
I wonder if we have something that works with smartthings this cheap?
You need a MQTT bridge for Smartthings, but it is possible.
Doesn't the Sonoff work with 3way switches also while the Shelly One does not?
They both can work with in a 3 way switch configuration. I'll have to include that in a follow up.
@@DrZzs I'd like to see that. From the diagrams on their website, it looks like the sonoff mini needs 3-way wiring that isn't popular (at least in the US). It has a third wire along with the two traveler wires going in between the two gang boxes. The shelly looks like it would work in my house as long as the load and a hot line are in the same box.
On the 3 way switching, I am not sure how critical that would be. One item can switch the load and the other could run as a salve only switch with no load connected to control the first switch.
That would be interesting to see as well, to see if the cloud services support using the switch as a slave to control other devices. The Scene section may do that.
You could setup a slave switch in a scene to control the load switch.
As far as I can see, in 3 way switching you'd need neutral and live at both switch places.
I kinda did that the first time I made a 3-way switch with Sonoff Basics (which we still have in use). One Basic controlled the lights. I used the old 3-way wiring to send 120v to the other switch boxes. Then used that to power the other Basics, and all they do is send a message to HA to turn on or off the main one that controls the lights.
I haven't used the device-to-device function of the Shellies. I might have to try that.
Thanks!
As stated, Shelly definitely supports n-way switches, but you can run into issues with persistent power in the right box. You can tap into persistent power from other regular switch in the box, if you have one. Another solution is to replace all the n-way switches with momentary switches (you can convert a standard switch to a momentary switch for free). You can then use the your neutral wire for neutral (just pass it through each box) one hot/load wire as a hot wire (I use black), and the other hot/load wire to carry the momentary power (I use the red wire for this). Attach the black and red wires to each switch and continue to the next switch. Use the black wire (which is persistent hot) to power the shelly and provide power to the "I" port. Attach red to the "SW" port. Attach "O" to the light and N to neutral (white). Then, configure the Shelly app for momentary switching. This method should work for any n-way configuration.
... was looking to buy a packet of Sonoff mini's but after this... I'm sold on the Shelly. now to find out how to get some. think packet of 5 is due.
excellent!
They have 4 packs on the Shelly.cloud website: shelly.cloud/product/shelly-1-open-source/?ref=24929
There's a bug on the Shelly 2.5's MQTT implementation that makes the device unusable with HA via MQTT.
When the device is working properly, if one of the on/off relay is toggled via an MQTT command, physical switch, or Shelly 2.5 web app, the Shelly 2.5 sends out a status update via MQTT with the new state for the relay. In addition, it sends out 3 status messages (i.e., relay on/off state; energy, and power) on a fixed interval. Problem is that the device glitches sometimes where it doesn't send a relay on/off status update upon state change. After the glitch, the Shelly 2.5 continues sending status updates for "power" and "energy" on fixed interval, but no further relay on/off state updates is sent. The bug doesn't seem to affect the other relay on the Shelly 2.5 when one relay glitches (e.g., when relay 0 glitches, relay 1 continues to function normally and vice versa). The only way to restore normal operation to the Shelly 2.5 is to cycle power.
After the glitch, I can no longer use HA to control the switch since HA no longer has the correct on/off state of the relay. I use the Shelly 2.5 to control two exterior flood lights. Just to be clear, here's a sample usage scenario: I use the HA Iphone app to turn on one of the lights, and the Shelly 2.5 glitches. The HA UI will still show the light as being off even though it is actually on. If I try to toggle the UI to "on," in attempt to make it reflect the actual state, it immediately jumps back to off because that was the last status received from the Shelly 2.5. I can still use the physical switch or the Shelly web app to control the glitched relay. But HA is rendered non functional for this relay because of the erroneous state in HA. The non-glitched relay on the Shelly 2.5 continues to function normally. As mentioned earlier, a power cycle restores normal operation until device glitches again.
I first mentioned this problem on the Shelly Facebook portal. Dimitar Dimitrov, whom I think may be the CEO of Shelly, does monitor their Facebook portal. He replied and told me to email their development staff with the problem. I did but never heard back. I waited two week, then forwarded the email to the Shelly support group - still no reply. Another user complained on the Shelly Facebook portal about the lack of support, and I chimed in. Dimitar wrote back and said a new firmware containing updated MQTT implementation was about to be released and that I should give that a try and report back. It's 8/25/2019 today. I first reported the problem almost exactly 1 month ago. There's been two firmware updates since Dimitar's last reply. The problem persists in the latest firmware. Device glitched again today.
I like the Shelly devices because of the small form factor, and that hasn't changed. I also liked it because I didn't have to flash it with Tasmota or ESPHome to make it work with MQTT, and best of all, I thought I would have official support from Shelly by running their stocked firmware. Unfortunately, their MQTT implementation is not up to par in my oppinion. Their lack of support is a also a huge turnoff. Keep this in mind if you decide to go with the Shelly. I may be flashing with Tasmota soon just to end the frustration of having to toggle power on the device, and articulating the problem to Shelly personnel with no response.
I have not experienced this problem on a Shelly 1 using MQTT on their stocked firmware. But that Shelly 1 controls one of my door entry lights, and is activated mostly via the timer set via the Shelly web app. I have other Shelly 1s running Tasmota. Those work without problems.
That's unfortunate. Have you posted that in the Shelly facebook page?
facebook.com/groups/ShellyIoTCommunitySupport
@@DrZzs Yes, I did mentioned the problem on that page, but not to this detail. Most people commenting on the page seems to just use the Shelly cloud, so are not affected by problems in their MQTT implementation.
The thing that bothers me most regarding this whole episode is the lack of response from Shelly's development and support staff. A simple acknowledgement of receiving my email, and that they're looking into the problem would have gone a long way towards enhancing customer satisfaction.
That is a bummer. Sorry man. Maybe try again. You can message Dimitar directly on Facebook. He's usually very responsive. Much more than the President of any other company I deal with regularly.
@@DrZzs I messaged him 2 days ago. No reply. I think he gave up on me. Would have flashed Tasmota onto the Shelly 2.5 already except I'm still not sure whether v6.6.0 fully supports the device. I know it's supposed to be supported via a template in v6.6.0, but read somewhere that I still need to compile my own binary with one of the #define un-commented. Do you happen to know whether there's a v6.6.0 pre-compiled binary that supports all capabilities for the Shelly 2.5?
Your statement on the 10amp relay and the circuit breakers is not 100% accurate (respectfully interjecting). 10amps is the working load but that relay can trip a 30 amp breaker. 10 amps is just its reliable rating for normal life. Lots of people worry about that relay when they have 16 gauge wire in a can light that will burn up on a 15amp short. I would prefer 16amps but the 10 will do. Great video Dr.Zzs, you provide better info than anyone on this subject by far.
Here's how it was explained in the manual from a "professional" thermal camera... 3M electrical tape has an emissivity of nearly 1.0. Place a piece of tape on the object you wish to measure and give it time to reach equilibrium. Then you can measure the tape to get an accurate reading. The other benefit is that you can then measure the part and figure out its emissivity value. The temp reading is divided by the emissivity to calculate the true reading. Therefore if you leave it at 1.0 you're reading the lowest magnitude. There are tables for material emissivities but the tape method is probably better than guessing. Not that what you're doing is super critical.
I learned a new word : Emessivity
;p
Great video. you ask if you have left anything out. I miss a number of important comparisons. Can the DIY pin in the Sonoff Mini also be used to connect a sensor? And the Input on the shelly can be used with 230v, which means that it does not have to be mounted at the switch and the existing wiring can be used. What voltage does the input on the sonoff work? Thanks for all the other comparisons!
For anyone looking for it:
Button 1 (reset) GPIO-0
Relay 1 GPIO-12
Led 1 (inverted) GPIO-13
Switch Input GPIO-4
DIY\OTA Pin GPIO-16
Thanks!
I've tried using the DIY pin without success. I'll try it again for the "Things I missed" video. Someone said it's tied to the sleep function but I don't know the details and I haven't been able to find a schematic for the Mini. Sonoff usually posts their schematics, or that have in the past.
Sonoff can also take 230v input. The switch legs on the Sonoff are 3v. You can mount it at the light and use the existing switch wiring like you would with the shelly. It should function fine. Hopefully there isn't enough voltage drop to cause a problem with the few meters of wire going to your switch, but there's only one way to really know...
I'll talk about the switch voltages in the next video too.
Thanks!
@@DrZzs Thanks for your message! Too bad there is no datasheet yet. Just took a closer look the OTA Pin it is directly on GPIO-16 and true a 10k resistor to 3.3v maybe not useful for a temperature sensor but ideal for a door sensor, for example. Template of my configuration is now this:
{"NAME":"Sonoff-Mini","GPIO":[255,255,0,255,9,0,0,0,21,56,0,0,255],"FLAG":0,"BASE":18}
So you can directly connect a push button or door contact to the 2 pins where you normally put the jumper on for the DIY Mode.
DrZzs I think what Remco means is that the switch input on the Shelly can handle mains voltage, so you can both mount it at the wall switch but also in the lamp ceiling rose, using the existing wiring.
That matters a lot here in Denmark where neither the Sonoff nor the Shelly is small enough to fit in our (very) small wall boxes.
@@MortenVindingSvendse Yes, this is a *really* critical point as to whether the switch input can accept a 230v live feed, none of the reviews I've seen so far seem to clarify this point!
I'm liking the Shelly but the external wifi antenna is nice for a metal box.
In practice not, each antenna need som room around to work good. If you have close metal parts the antenna charge frequency and lost sensitivity. On the table external antenna can perform well but in the wall where is many cables and metal box around is totally different.
IIRC In europe lighting circuits must be connected on an 10A circuit breaker under current regulatiions.
6amp uk
Just like shelly's firmware. That I am watching your videos (with my low level of English) says a lot about you. Thx
Great to hear!
Your English is great mate ;-)
I was surprised and disappointed how easily you pulled the solid wire out of the Shelly. Wonder how that got past the UL guys?
Very good point. Hope they have the answer
I was too. I don't like those connectors.
This is not the UL listed version. The ul listed version is not out yet
You missed the installation step. +1 for Sonoff in this case. Shelly needs some additional wago connectors.
Agree Sonoff is easier to install. But if you look at the functions Shelly is waaaaaay ahead of Sonoff so 2 points for Shelly in that case
In the video you mentioned how the Shelly supports different input voltages. But you didn’t discuss output relay voltages. The Shelly relay is not connected to mains power. This means you can use it to switch low voltage devices like my gas fireplace. The sonoff relay is jumpered to the input power so can only switch devices with the same voltage as the input.
Dimitar pointed that out to me this morning. Major oversight on my part. I'll do a little update. That is a big difference. Thanks
Shelly1 is isolated relay outputs; shelly2.5 is at line :)
13:05 the wiring is different for shelly vs sonoff.
I have up button and down button on a pulley I would like to make smart any ideals
depending on how the buttons work, you might be able to use a switch with 2 relays and have them interlocked (using tasmota) so only one can be active at a time (so you don't get up and down trying to run at the same time). A shelly 2.5 could probably do that for you.
DrZzs Thanks for your help
DrZzs wiring diagram for Pittsburgh hoist 440 lbs can you do a video please
Could I use these to control a ceiling fan?
You could, but it will only turn it on or off. No speed controls or light control. I use a Bond control for fans. It can control multiple fans and has good range.
FiresidePrinting unfortunately none of my fans have remotes so I don’t think that would work
How about testing what happens if you accidentally short the switch?
maybe a boom?
@@DrZzs I thought it would be interesting from a safety perspective. E.g. does something stop working before something catches fire.
DrZzs How about a Zzzzz,, fizzle with smoke, then the boom !
to compare work temperatures u need to load both to 1 kw or more and measure
fixed that in V2. Put them on a 14 amp load. SPOILER: The Mini didn't survive...
I just got my Sonoff Mini. It now has 16A relay
In other videos, I've seen it mentioned that the 16A relay rating may be to Chinese standards. Hence, it's maybe only momentary/surge rating and not a continuous rating. Would suggest caution if using loads above 10a anyway! :)
Shelly one great garage remote and dorr sensor
UL is worth more than anything else. Then relay rating. The connector strength is important, but I'd like to see some torque requirements before determining that Sonoff won that one. Oh yeah, great video as usual. :-)
Thanks