You forgot to mention a key difference, the Shelly One is blue, and the Sonoff Mini appears to be white, but you can just add that to your comparision video #3.
There are too little electrical engineers (circuit builders) in Bulgaria, but It's seems there are enough good ones. Thumbs up. Another good product from the city of Plovdiv this time are the Olimex circuit boards (SoC). They have boards specially build for alexa or g-assistant. I'm ordering shelly soon. Keep on rollin'. Greetings!!!
I was also surprised that they are build in Bulgaria when i herd of those switches first. I think they are build by "Allterco" they also have few other toys, And if DrZzs is happy with them i'll take his words for granted :). I'll be buying few of those for our apartment
@@DrZzs You could have just gotten rid of the neutral wire nut and hooked it right into the sonoff mini, saving you even more space and wiring. I truly think the only detriment to the sonoff is the amperage and wifi. However, if you're using it for lights then the amperage doesn't matter. The shelly wiring is ass backwards, IMO.
for wifi connection test you can reverse the test, connect it to your phon's hot spot and go with your phone (cordless) and see when the device loses connectivity
Nice! Very useful comparisons and tests! I never bothered testing the temperature with my sonoff basics attached to the garage door motor(just checked and it hovers around 45 to 50c!!). So this was helpful and serves as a helpful reminder to check the load/temp... and now I want to get both the sonoff mini and shelly one!!
I wish he said a little more often just which temp-units. I know both °C and °F (°C is better) but I was only listening. So I had no idea he was wearing shorts instead of something like winter gear!! It's obvious if, well I guess... if you pay attention. But this is electricity! Who needs to pay attention?!? I know Everything about MY homes wiring! I'm not even an electrician!! .... .... (Self deprecating humor has humorously deprecated myself)
I attempted to install the Shelley 1 into a dual gang switch box. Unfortunately, the box was too stuffed with wires that went no where that the Shelley couldn't fit. ☹️ It's actually for my bedroom ceiling fan/light... So maybe install them inside the fan housing? That's IF I have access to the hot and neutral wires up there. Thanks for all you do!
I've had that problem too. Sure seems like our boxes get over-stuffed with wires a lot. I have a 3 gang box in our bedroom that must serve as a junction box for several circuits because I took out the 3 switches and replaced them with a single Sonoff T1 and I still had a hard time fitting it all back in there because of all the extra wires coming in.
I used to quite often lose the wifi connection to the Sonoff I had to turn my pool filter pump on and off. Probably because it was at the end of my yard inside a metal box.
I think that the Shelly 1 wins hands down. Might be more expensive but makes up in functionality and flexability. An example of this is the ability of being able to software set the mode of the Shelly 1 v's having to pull apart the Sonoff Mini (which I have)....
@@DrZzs Pls do as I was unable to find good documentation online on how to with these devices (No schematics, no how to flash it with Tasmota and how to install it). Only Shelly 1 has good documentation and tutorials
That last comparison... For diy it's sort-of-OK. NEC requires certain isolation practices between mains and LV circuits that you're not likely to attain w/ your T/RH sensor. Maybe I'm wrong though.
@DrZzs not ever thinking I would get into any kind of programming came into an adafruit a month ago and for Christmas received a Raspberry Pi 3, so I have some work to do with terminology and actually programming my first chip. The exciting thing is I understand there is a way to program the sonoff, which will be of a benefit since 10 sonoff minis are on the way in the mail, to wire into my light switches, and I want to understand one thing. Is the point to flash tasmota to a sonoff for more versatility since I already have a SmartThings Hub, does that sound right. From what I understand even though eWelink will work with sonoff and with Google home, to flash them would not only be a great exercise but make it more cohesive with my present hub.
Hello, Please, I have a problem that I can't solve, I have alots of shelly controls lights. I cannot make a correct automations with any one. This because the binary sensor input that gives us the state of the shelly (if is in on or Off) is only updated with the switch (interruptor). So if the last time the switch was on, then the binary sensor remains in on state even if I turn off the light from HA. The binary sensor is only updated with the physical switch. I try all configurations but no way. I cannot have the correct state. Now i have the setting: type Button in Edge switch and Power On default mode in Restore Last Mode. Any solution to have the correct state? please need help from you boss! thank you very much in advance
I see you used much lighter gauge wire on the Sonoff for the Switch Contact Voltage test. Will that work for a 3 and 4 way set up? I'm worried about the length I will need between the switches. I know that's another matter I can look up myself, but is a smaller size ok in general for the physical switch hardware? And thanks. I subscribed for the two Sonoff/Shelly videos but you've got a lot of cool stuff I've recently added to my watchlist!
1-Can we use shelly1 in apartment intercom unit in home? our apartment intercom works with 12 Volt how to connect? I need install of diagram.... 2-When someone push intercom (Examplemy home number is 8 and push number 8) front of the main door of apartment then Can we get natification from shelly1 then we can unlock the main door of apartment...THANKS.
I thought the last two contacts of sonoff mini were only for "signal", not supposed to have load, so i used two wires from an audio installation. Will they burn in long time load?Thanks for this review!!!
Those are for the Switch. Audio wires will be fine. They won't burn up. One of them is GPIO-4 and the other is ground. The GPIO pins on the esp8266 can only provide a very small amount of current. 0.12 amps max. Even tiny wires from a phone or ethernet cable would be fine.
Between the Sonoff mini with the enclosure, and the Sonoff Basic bare board, which one is harder to fit inside a single wall switch box? I have yet to own a mini, but had some hard time fitting the Basic bare board into some wall boxes in my house. Just wondwering if it would be easier to use the mini instead.
I was curious about this as well. Does the physical switch position effect the use of the smart functionality of either device? I want to say due to how it's wired the physical switch position doesn't interfere with the smart functionality.
Quite enjoyed this video. Informative, to the point, interesting. I would like it if you sometimes trimmed up the live streams to be more compact like this too sometimes. 😃
ya, I really should get back to that. I just need 5-6 more hours in the day. Or a couple more days in the week. Or even just a clone of myself I could send to work in my place.
Thanks for these two videos, now that I have secured my IoT wireless vlan I think you may just have convinced me to stop my zwave project (thank goodness I haven't purchased all my switches yet). Do you think you could do a video on the Shelly 1PM? I'd love to see the power monitoring capabilities of the 1PM.
I'm interested in your upcoming 3-way switching video as I think I have the wiring set up like in the 2nd scenario you show where the line comes into the light and then goes out to the first switch box - since there are not neutrals in the switch box does the shelly go the light fixture box?
yes. That's exactly right. That actually makes for a pretty simple install. Shelly goes in the box, Line and Neutral to the Shelly, 'O' goes to the light, Neutral from the light goes with the Neutral from the panel, then the switch contact on the shelly takes the wire from one of the 3-way switch's common pole (likely black or white with black tape). The other common pole wire from the other 3-way switch goes to the hot from the panel. You also need a wire from the hot to the "I" on the shelly. I'll be working on that longer version a lot and will get it out soon.
@@DrZzs When looking at your video, at 3:04 I see the graph raw and it shows 0,054A at 110v (assumed) so that calculates to 5,94W. Maybe you can get a known-good meter connected because if you got quite a lot of these devices using 12W everywhere you could have some nice bulbs on :D
@@DrZzs When looking at your video, at 3:04 I see the graph raw and it shows 0,054A at 110v (assumed) so that calculates to 5,94W. Maybe you can get a known-good meter connected because if you got quite a lot of these devices using 12W everywhere you could have some nice bulbs on :D
@@DrZzs When looking at your video, at 3:04 I see the graph raw and it shows 0,054A at 110v (assumed) so that calculates to 5,94W. Maybe you can get a known-good meter connected because if you got quite a lot of these devices using 12W everywhere you could have some nice bulbs on :D
@@DrZzs When looking at your video, at 3:04 I see the graph raw and it shows 0,054A at 110v (assumed) so that calculates to 5,94W. Maybe you can get a known-good meter connected because if you got quite a lot of these devices using 12W everywhere you could have some nice bulbs on :D
@DrZzs i have to get some new switches, i have to choose between the sonoff mini r2 and the shelly 1. which should i choose and why ? please respond asap, as i ineed to puchase in the next 24 hours.
I believe in Australia they have rules about requiring an electrician to install these kinds of devices, but we don't have that rule here. As far as I know (not being a lawyer), as long as the device is "UL Listed" and it is installed properly, you're covered. I need to find a lawyer that is willing to join the discussion. Most of this just comes from "the internet" and discussions in our community. I guess I could call my home owner's insurance and ask them "for a friend"...
What's appen if the device loose the wifi connection? Can I use the device without the home/internet connection? For example for switch on and off a room light
The Shelly will still allow you to operate the light with the external switch during network disconnects. Can’t say for sure about the mini... but I’d think it would work as well.
I haven't done any power consumption measuring of any of my home automation devices, except my Raspberry Pis, which came in at only about 2W (for my Rpi 2B honeypot - not doing much). I saw the 0.11/0.12A in your test. Does that imply that at 120V, these consume some 14W of power? That would be shocking! My 8TB NAS runs at 22W or so and the PIs are in the 2 to 10W range. Can you please confirm? thanks
This^ really would like a confirmation to this. Came to comments to ask so actually + wondered: whats the total energy consumption of the device while its working? I know we have what the manufacturer says, but your real life testing would be much appreciated. (just in case, what I mean is to measure the power consumed while on an "ON state" in which the relay coil is energized to provide the magnetic field for its thing, hence, also consuming more power
7:03 Is that your font yard??? That's... huge. ;) In my opinion sonoff had a great chance to create an awesome product which can compete to shelly. They knew which are the benefits of the shelly. But they've just built a sonoff basic in a smaller case with accessible gpio pins to connect a switch. Nothing special. I even don't get the point why there aren't accessible TX/RX/GPIO0/GND/3,3V connectors on the PCB. This is not DIY....
ha! No, that's a park behind our house. Our yard is actually very small. We kinda consider the park part of our yard but we don't have to maintain it. It's the best of both worlds :)
If you're in Europe I think the best way to get them is from Shelly.cloud . In the US, Amazon is a little less for some reason. Even in the US if you buy from Shelly.cloud or Amazon they ship from the same warehouse so arrival time is the same.
FYI: DrZzs I order some shelly 1's but also shelly 2.5's for my home. And found out that the shelly-2 is only 8 amps, and the shelly-2.5 is only 10 amps. I bought these 2.5 versions because most of my switches have 2 or 3 buttons. I tell this because I never hear from youtubers about this important fact. Are we supposed to use in-line fuses for 8 or 10 amps for these shelly's too? and Why are they UL compliant if they are less than 15amp circuits?
For all the fiddling around inside of switch boxes, wire nuts are so 20th century. You need to get yourself some WAGO "Lever Nut" connectors. These things are awesome! You'll never wonder if you got all the wires connected inside the wire nut, they're easy to remove and replace a single wire at a time, and you can imagine actually connecting together up to 5 wires reliably if you need to. See www.amazon.com/slp/wago-wire-connector/dzxsrhkj6f2k9tp and probably a bunch of UA-cam videos, too. You'll never go back to wire nuts again.
Nice timing! Dale just sent me a pack of those and you aren't kidding. So much better! I used them in the extended version of this video when I do all the 3 way switch wirings. Thanks!
It could also be a blown VR (voltage Reg. Im willing to bet on it) A little AMS1117 5.0v or 3.3v on-board? Worth a look. Like 50cents to fix if I am right!
@ you need to have two devices sonoff mini. only one device will turn on the light bulb with relay. the second device will run only automation in nodered or Home Assistent. :) The Automation Starts relay on first device:)
2 Shelly’s have literally exploded in my hands.... I was very excited to get started with them, but apparently they are built very poorly according to a mechanical engineer I know.
That seems extreme. Can you describe the situation? I'm not paid be Shelly at all but I believe they are built pretty well compared to many other devices we use every day.
I prefer the Sonoff mini, especially the wire terminals that you've showed in your previous video. Edit: about the Sonoff mini, you might be able to use the 3,3 volt switch terminal as an input to power the device for flashing.
I like it too. Much improved over the sonoff basic. I'll check that switch terminal, but I thought it was GPIO14 and Ground. I really do wish they had given us easier access to 3v somewhere near those terminals. Then we could use those terminals for a sensor or use a powered switch with an LED or a cap-touch.
The wiring for the sonoff mini is much better than the shelly 1. With the shelly 1 you need to have an abomination of wire nuts and shit in your gang box. The sonoff mini is much cleaner.
Not sure why, but this video felt very "old school DrZzs" to me. I loved it!
Thanks Rob :)
Which one of them can retain state (before power outage) once the power comes back?
You forgot to mention a key difference, the Shelly One is blue, and the Sonoff Mini appears to be white, but you can just add that to your comparision video #3.
how could I be so Blind!!
There are too little electrical engineers (circuit builders) in Bulgaria, but It's seems there are enough good ones. Thumbs up.
Another good product from the city of Plovdiv this time are the Olimex circuit boards (SoC). They have boards specially build for alexa or g-assistant.
I'm ordering shelly soon.
Keep on rollin'. Greetings!!!
I was also surprised that they are build in Bulgaria when i herd of those switches first. I think they are build by "Allterco" they also have few other toys, And if DrZzs is happy with them i'll take his words for granted :). I'll be buying few of those for our apartment
The second neutral spot is to save you a wire but, you can loop your neutral through the sonoff mini.
I thought about that as I was watching this during editing. Probably didn't need to attach that extra Neutral wire.
Thanks!
Love the Beard Jordan!
@@DrZzs You could have just gotten rid of the neutral wire nut and hooked it right into the sonoff mini, saving you even more space and wiring. I truly think the only detriment to the sonoff is the amperage and wifi. However, if you're using it for lights then the amperage doesn't matter. The shelly wiring is ass backwards, IMO.
I have to make 2 comments:
1. Really great vs videos.
2. THAT VIEW with the mountain in the back... jesus, beautifull! loved to live there!
for wifi connection test you can reverse the test, connect it to your phon's hot spot and go with your phone (cordless) and see when the device loses connectivity
Dude, mountains (almost) in your backyard. That's crazy!
Those mountains that still is his backyard. Dr. Zzs has a gas station half way down his driveway just to make it to the main road
Ha!
true, except it's a Charging station cuz I'm an EV guy :)
@@DrZzs darn, then you better put one at the end of yr driveway too ;-)
@@DrZzs Me too. I've even got a 56v battery electric weed wacker and lawn mower.
"I will miss you my little sonoff"
Love it
I didn't really think it would die. And with my other one installed in the wall I'm not Mini-less :(
Nice! Very useful comparisons and tests! I never bothered testing the temperature with my sonoff basics attached to the garage door motor(just checked and it hovers around 45 to 50c!!). So this was helpful and serves as a helpful reminder to check the load/temp... and now I want to get both the sonoff mini and shelly one!!
I wish he said a little more often just which temp-units. I know both °C and °F (°C is better) but I was only listening. So I had no idea he was wearing shorts instead of something like winter gear!!
It's obvious if, well I guess... if you pay attention.
But this is electricity!
Who needs to pay attention?!?
I know Everything about MY homes wiring!
I'm not even an electrician!!
.... ....
(Self deprecating humor has humorously deprecated myself)
I attempted to install the Shelley 1 into a dual gang switch box. Unfortunately, the box was too stuffed with wires that went no where that the Shelley couldn't fit. ☹️
It's actually for my bedroom ceiling fan/light... So maybe install them inside the fan housing? That's IF I have access to the hot and neutral wires up there.
Thanks for all you do!
I've had that problem too. Sure seems like our boxes get over-stuffed with wires a lot. I have a 3 gang box in our bedroom that must serve as a junction box for several circuits because I took out the 3 switches and replaced them with a single Sonoff T1 and I still had a hard time fitting it all back in there because of all the extra wires coming in.
use the sonoff mini. If you understand wiring you can save yourself a lot of space that you wouldn't be able to save with a shelly.
I used to quite often lose the wifi connection to the Sonoff I had to turn my pool filter pump on and off. Probably because it was at the end of my yard inside a metal box.
I think that the Shelly 1 wins hands down. Might be more expensive but makes up in functionality and flexability. An example of this is the ability of being able to software set the mode of the Shelly 1 v's having to pull apart the Sonoff Mini (which I have)....
Can you do a review of the Shelly 2 and Shelly 2.5? Features, use cases how to connect it, etc.?
I can do a project using the 2.5
@@DrZzs Pls do as I was unable to find good documentation online on how to with these devices (No schematics, no how to flash it with Tasmota and how to install it). Only Shelly 1 has good documentation and tutorials
You got it.
DrZzs thanks!!!
That last comparison... For diy it's sort-of-OK. NEC requires certain isolation practices between mains and LV circuits that you're not likely to attain w/ your T/RH sensor. Maybe I'm wrong though.
You are probably right.
Does shelly still control the light using the switch its connected to if it loses wifi connection, or your router goes down?
@DrZzs not ever thinking I would get into any kind of programming came into an adafruit a month ago and for Christmas received a Raspberry Pi 3, so I have some work to do with terminology and actually programming my first chip.
The exciting thing is I understand there is a way to program the sonoff, which will be of a benefit since 10 sonoff minis are on the way in the mail, to wire into my light switches, and I want to understand one thing.
Is the point to flash tasmota to a sonoff for more versatility since I already have a SmartThings Hub, does that sound right. From what I understand even though eWelink will work with sonoff and with Google home, to flash them would not only be a great exercise but make it more cohesive with my present hub.
good job, continue with this degree of details
Hello, Please, I have a problem that I can't solve, I have alots of shelly controls lights. I cannot make a correct automations with any one. This because the binary sensor input that gives us the state of the shelly (if is in on or Off) is only updated with the switch (interruptor). So if the last time the switch was on, then the binary sensor remains in on state even if I turn off the light from HA. The binary sensor is only updated with the physical switch. I try all configurations but no way. I cannot have the correct state. Now i have the setting: type Button in Edge switch and Power On default mode in Restore Last Mode. Any solution to have the correct state? please need help from you boss! thank you very much in advance
Enjoyed the video. Missed your floating head of your older videos. ;-)
I see you used much lighter gauge wire on the Sonoff for the Switch Contact Voltage test. Will that work for a 3 and 4 way set up? I'm worried about the length I will need between the switches. I know that's another matter I can look up myself, but is a smaller size ok in general for the physical switch hardware?
And thanks. I subscribed for the two Sonoff/Shelly videos but you've got a lot of cool stuff I've recently added to my watchlist!
1-Can we use shelly1 in apartment intercom unit in home? our apartment intercom works with 12 Volt how to connect? I need install of diagram....
2-When someone push intercom (Examplemy home number is 8 and push number 8) front of the main door of apartment then Can we get natification from shelly1 then we can unlock the main door of apartment...THANKS.
I thought the last two contacts of sonoff mini were only for "signal", not supposed to have load, so i used two wires from an audio installation. Will they burn in long time load?Thanks for this review!!!
Those are for the Switch. Audio wires will be fine. They won't burn up.
One of them is GPIO-4 and the other is ground. The GPIO pins on the esp8266 can only provide a very small amount of current. 0.12 amps max. Even tiny wires from a phone or ethernet cable would be fine.
@@DrZzs lovely! Have a nice day and congrats for the channel
Just jumping into the smart home game. Am I in good hands if I chose Shelly 1 over lutron?
Between the Sonoff mini with the enclosure, and the Sonoff Basic bare board, which one is harder to fit inside a single wall switch box? I have yet to own a mini, but had some hard time fitting the Basic bare board into some wall boxes in my house. Just wondwering if it would be easier to use the mini instead.
1:58 Where can I find this wiring video?
Can either one be used with Alexa right out of the box with no additional programming
How does the Onofre switches compare to these?
Question: When turned to the of position wirelessly, can the be manual switched back on?
I was curious about this as well. Does the physical switch position effect the use of the smart functionality of either device? I want to say due to how it's wired the physical switch position doesn't interfere with the smart functionality.
Which one of them can retain state (before power outage) once the power comes back?
Quite enjoyed this video.
Informative, to the point, interesting.
I would like it if you sometimes trimmed up the live streams to be more compact like this too sometimes. 😃
ya, I really should get back to that.
I just need 5-6 more hours in the day. Or a couple more days in the week. Or even just a clone of myself I could send to work in my place.
Haha I know that feeling! That being said I do really enjoy your videos. Regardless of how they are. So thankyou! ! 😁😁
Thanks bro, really helpful 👍👍👍👍
Thanks for these two videos, now that I have secured my IoT wireless vlan I think you may just have convinced me to stop my zwave project (thank goodness I haven't purchased all my switches yet).
Do you think you could do a video on the Shelly 1PM? I'd love to see the power monitoring capabilities of the 1PM.
Yes I sure can. I have 2 of them ready to put to use.
I'm interested in your upcoming 3-way switching video as I think I have the wiring set up like in the 2nd scenario you show where the line comes into the light and then goes out to the first switch box - since there are not neutrals in the switch box does the shelly go the light fixture box?
yes. That's exactly right. That actually makes for a pretty simple install. Shelly goes in the box, Line and Neutral to the Shelly, 'O' goes to the light, Neutral from the light goes with the Neutral from the panel, then the switch contact on the shelly takes the wire from one of the 3-way switch's common pole (likely black or white with black tape). The other common pole wire from the other 3-way switch goes to the hot from the panel. You also need a wire from the hot to the "I" on the shelly.
I'll be working on that longer version a lot and will get it out soon.
0,11 Amp at 112v is 12,32 watt. That's quite a lot actually!
My wifi switch uses 0,9 watts when relay is on... and 0,3 watt when off, I got 230v
I was surprised it was that high too. Could be that my Sonoff S31 wasn't calibrated perfectly. But the comparison was the real point.
@@DrZzs When looking at your video, at 3:04 I see the graph raw and it shows 0,054A at 110v (assumed) so that calculates to 5,94W. Maybe you can get a known-good meter connected because if you got quite a lot of these devices using 12W everywhere you could have some nice bulbs on :D
@@DrZzs When looking at your video, at 3:04 I see the graph raw and it shows 0,054A at 110v (assumed) so that calculates to 5,94W. Maybe you can get a known-good meter connected because if you got quite a lot of these devices using 12W everywhere you could have some nice bulbs on :D
@@DrZzs When looking at your video, at 3:04 I see the graph raw and it shows 0,054A at 110v (assumed) so that calculates to 5,94W. Maybe you can get a known-good meter connected because if you got quite a lot of these devices using 12W everywhere you could have some nice bulbs on :D
@@DrZzs When looking at your video, at 3:04 I see the graph raw and it shows 0,054A at 110v (assumed) so that calculates to 5,94W. Maybe you can get a known-good meter connected because if you got quite a lot of these devices using 12W everywhere you could have some nice bulbs on :D
@DrZzs i have to get some new switches, i have to choose between the sonoff mini r2 and the shelly 1. which should i choose and why ? please respond asap, as i ineed to puchase in the next 24 hours.
Can you flash a sonoff mini with the smart life tuya firmware?
Great video, however I don't get which is the purpose of the neutral out put in the sonoff mini? 🤔
There isn't any need to use both of the neutrals. They are bridged inside. You can use them if you want it in between some cut through extention cord
Robin is correct. It's just there to help with wire management. It acts like a wire-nut basically.
I will go with Shelly 1 'coz the higher amp.
Have you ever had an electrical inspection for a residential home automation project using either of these devices?
uh, no.
Why would I do that?
How does it work with the insurance over there then ?
Do the different companies involved have any wishes
Are you still covered
I believe in Australia they have rules about requiring an electrician to install these kinds of devices, but we don't have that rule here.
As far as I know (not being a lawyer), as long as the device is "UL Listed" and it is installed properly, you're covered. I need to find a lawyer that is willing to join the discussion. Most of this just comes from "the internet" and discussions in our community.
I guess I could call my home owner's insurance and ask them "for a friend"...
So you can power the Shelly with say 12 volts DC and switch say 48 volts AC or DC?
yep!
What's appen if the device loose the wifi connection? Can I use the device without the home/internet connection? For example for switch on and off a room light
The Shelly will still allow you to operate the light with the external switch during network disconnects. Can’t say for sure about the mini... but I’d think it would work as well.
Yes, you are correct. Both with still function without internet or connection to HA.
I haven't done any power consumption measuring of any of my home automation devices, except my Raspberry Pis, which came in at only about 2W (for my Rpi 2B honeypot - not doing much). I saw the 0.11/0.12A in your test. Does that imply that at 120V, these consume some 14W of power? That would be shocking! My 8TB NAS runs at 22W or so and the PIs are in the 2 to 10W range. Can you please confirm?
thanks
This^ really would like a confirmation to this. Came to comments to ask so actually + wondered: whats the total energy consumption of the device while its working? I know we have what the manufacturer says, but your real life testing would be much appreciated. (just in case, what I mean is to measure the power consumed while on an "ON state" in which the relay coil is energized to provide the magnetic field for its thing, hence, also consuming more power
7:03 Is that your font yard??? That's... huge. ;)
In my opinion sonoff had a great chance to create an awesome product which can compete to shelly. They knew which are the benefits of the shelly.
But they've just built a sonoff basic in a smaller case with accessible gpio pins to connect a switch. Nothing special. I even don't get the point why there aren't accessible TX/RX/GPIO0/GND/3,3V connectors on the PCB. This is not DIY....
ha!
No, that's a park behind our house. Our yard is actually very small. We kinda consider the park part of our yard but we don't have to maintain it. It's the best of both worlds :)
Do we have resting power consumption for all sonoff devices as well as shellys?? can't find that anywhere
Whre you can get cheap Shelly One?
If you're in Europe I think the best way to get them is from Shelly.cloud . In the US, Amazon is a little less for some reason. Even in the US if you buy from Shelly.cloud or Amazon they ship from the same warehouse so arrival time is the same.
FYI: DrZzs I order some shelly 1's but also shelly 2.5's for my home. And found out that the shelly-2 is only 8 amps, and the shelly-2.5 is only 10 amps. I bought these 2.5 versions because most of my switches have 2 or 3 buttons. I tell this because I never hear from youtubers about this important fact. Are we supposed to use in-line fuses for 8 or 10 amps for these shelly's too? and Why are they UL compliant if they are less than 15amp circuits?
For all the fiddling around inside of switch boxes, wire nuts are so 20th century. You need to get yourself some WAGO "Lever Nut" connectors. These things are awesome! You'll never wonder if you got all the wires connected inside the wire nut, they're easy to remove and replace a single wire at a time, and you can imagine actually connecting together up to 5 wires reliably if you need to. See www.amazon.com/slp/wago-wire-connector/dzxsrhkj6f2k9tp and probably a bunch of UA-cam videos, too. You'll never go back to wire nuts again.
Nice timing!
Dale just sent me a pack of those and you aren't kidding. So much better!
I used them in the extended version of this video when I do all the 3 way switch wirings.
Thanks!
This guy knows what’s up
Check the dead Sonoff for a fuse. Could be a quick fix
It could also be a blown VR (voltage Reg. Im willing to bet on it) A little AMS1117 5.0v or 3.3v on-board? Worth a look. Like 50cents to fix if I am right!
that's probably true! I'll poke around and check. I'd love to get it back to functioning.
I didn't see one, but I wasn't specifically looking. I'll check again (and hope you're right :)
Its not a fuse. I think is the relay contacts
2:45 i hawe a diagram that solves the problem:) how can i send it to you?
You wouldn't still happen to have that diagram, would you? Staring down the same thing currently, would love to see how you got it to work!
@ you need to have two devices sonoff mini. only one device will turn on the light bulb with relay. the second device will run only automation in nodered or Home Assistent. :) The Automation Starts relay on first device:)
All hail The Shelly!
2:42
2 Shelly’s have literally exploded in my hands....
I was very excited to get started with them, but apparently they are built very poorly according to a mechanical engineer I know.
That seems extreme. Can you describe the situation? I'm not paid be Shelly at all but I believe they are built pretty well compared to many other devices we use every day.
I prefer the Sonoff mini, especially the wire terminals that you've showed in your previous video.
Edit: about the Sonoff mini, you might be able to use the 3,3 volt switch terminal as an input to power the device for flashing.
I like it too. Much improved over the sonoff basic. I'll check that switch terminal, but I thought it was GPIO14 and Ground. I really do wish they had given us easier access to 3v somewhere near those terminals. Then we could use those terminals for a sensor or use a powered switch with an LED or a cap-touch.
The wiring for the sonoff mini is much better than the shelly 1. With the shelly 1 you need to have an abomination of wire nuts and shit in your gang box. The sonoff mini is much cleaner.
amen.
F that sonoff mini
oh, it's not all bad. It has its place. But yes, in a head to head with the Shelly it doesn't look very good.