@jamesmason7124 Smooth and textured 👌👌 like it should have been from the start. Here is the link, it's not available yet qidi3d.com/products/q1-pro-smooth-plate?_gl=1*1tu8abu*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTE0OTcxMjE4Mi4xNzE1NDQ0NTg1*_ga_KX2C50P9X7*MTcxNTQ0NDU4NC4xLjAuMTcxNTQ0NDU5Ni4wLjAuMA..&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpJLlhoGGhgMVMqaDBx0f-wdrEAAYASAAEgK7GvD_BwE
It has a few flaws, but I think this is the most capable printer for the money, or for even a few $100 more, hands down. Top of my list of potential next printer purchases.
This is of course a first batch review sample and most issues are already fixed on the second batch so it's absolutely one of the best deals out there right now.
@@NoizieWorks I had heard changes were inbound as well. Even as it launched, the ability to print ABS, nylon, and other difficult filaments so well made it a winner. I'm wondering what the next Qidi offering will be. NeedItMakeIt Mike is a friend of mine BTW, thanks for shouting him out! He has made some awesome models and videos.
just got my machine and looks like they changed a few things. they added the alignment corners for the plate. they moved the purge bucket towards the center.
Great review. I've had good luck with the run-out sensor working correctly. I just started printing with TPU, and it's been doing a great job. There were no issues with it spewing out filament while it was heating. However, the issue that I agree with you on is the timelapse issue. I cannot get that to work. I haven't reached out to support yet, but I will this weekend. Overall, this printer has been fantastic. I've had no issues with printing PLA, TPU, and ABS. This printer loves different materials.
@@NoizieWorks, I don't get an error on the console. When I add the Gcode for timelapse in OcraSlicer, the printer behavior completely changes. The movements are super rough, and the print quality is horrible as the printer becomes jerky. It's odd. Once I remove that Gcode for the timelapse, the printer behavior returns to normal.
I ordered a random 1 meter pack with 2mm inner and 4mm outer diameter. I just cut it a few cm longer and trimmed it until it wasn't hitting the top lid (with the riser)
I like your style of analysis and delivery, thanks for your good work! I do have a query about this machine. I've just received my one and have initially found it to have a pretty bad first layer, mainly due to under extrusion but also to do with areas in the build platform with inconsistent thickness of it's coating. The software is clearly measuring filament diameter, but it's not measuring it accurately and I think that is what is causing the main part of my problem with under extrusion. I have noticed it measuring the confirmed 1.75mm filament as 1.92mm which is then stored in the configuration somewhere. To make things work I have had to increase the flow rate by 20%, which is almost exactly the difference in cross sectional area between a 1.75mm and 1.92mm filament. Do you have any idea where I can find the entry in the configuration files that handles this filament diameter sensor? That way I can either turn off the function or recalibrate it. Anyway, good work, thanks and all the best, Ed.
Thanks brother, as far as i know and found in the config it's only for the filament runout where the filament has to fall between i think 1.2 and 1.9mm to give the ok. It's not using it to dynamically adjust flow. 20% is A LOT and doesn't sound normal to me. My inconsistency came from a bowed bed and pinching tubing in the corners so if you underextrude in the normal layers you have another problem.
@@NoizieWorks Yep, that is a lot! Thanks for the heads up on that filament measuring function, although mine is still giving the go ahead on 1.92mm it's nice to know it's not actually using that to adjust the rate it pushes the filament through. I'll have a look and see if I can determine what's causing it when I get a chance. It's certainly extruding nicely with a consistent flow rate, so the only thing I can think of is a grossly out of place steps per millimetre of filament setting, although I can barely believe that would be the case. I'll also try without that sharply bent delivery tube. Thanks man, excellent reply, and fast too!
@@NoizieWorks Okay, so this is what I found.... My initial test was erroneous and increasing flow rate was only a method of masking bad bed leveling. I found the steps per millimetre for the extruder were spot on and that the build plate has a small variance in the thickness of it's coating which is considerable in one particular spot. To solve this I did two things, firstly I turned the build plate over, then I changed the probe (smart_effector in the config file) speed from 10 to 3, increased samples from 2 to 3, changed the retract distance from 3 to 2 and changed the samples tolerance from 0.05 to 0.01. This effectively slowed the process down and resulted in a bed mesh variance of 0.47mm instead of 0.68mm, all done with a hot soaked bed at 60°c. Result, the most perfect first layer test I've ever seen!! On a side note I also found this... The home all macro has the bed drop by 5mm before anything else happens, if the bed is already at the bottom of its travel dropping it a further 5mm will crash the linear rod bearings into the bottom casing, my fix was in the stepper_z entry in the config file, I changed position_max from 148mm to 135mm. I know those numbers don't look right, but 135mm was the maximum I could have it to stop the crashing. I assume the z offset is included in the max build volume which in my case is about 3.5 mm, so 135+3.5 gives a max z axis or model height of 138.5mm. One question you might be able to help with since this is the first few hours I've ever seen fluidd and klipper; how does the g code viewer at the bottom right corner of the fluidd interface work? My one only shows an outline of the part but no layer or progress information, all the settings options are greyed out too! Anyway, I hope this helps someone, all the best, Ed.
Anything up to a millimeter can normally be done with good snips, my build plate would require a band saw or a mill because it's like 3mm thick (cr10 max)
Could you possibly do your mechanical tests with some filaments as well? I am torn between the Qidi Q1 Pro and the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra, and there are so few reviewers who do proper mechanical tests... Everyone always says resin prints are so weak and brittle, but I am sure some of the newer engineering resins could give the filaments a run for their money! Also have a look at post cure heat treating at 60C or 80C as shown by CNC kitchen and Formlabs which increases resin parts' strength by 10-20%. I think then the resins might really challenge the filaments in terms of strength, especially due to the isotropic strength of the resin prints.
3:31 yet you suggested a beapoke pogo pin setup for the fan, just unplug the cable. Proprietary/ nonstandard closed source parts are just bad for the entire industry so its best we keep things pretty open.
I added the buildplate fix to my Q1 Pro. My Q1 Pro then started having the gremlins with probe samples exceed samples_tolerance error. I removed it and went back stock and it completely went away. I honestly have no clue what is happening. I have done 20 prints since going back to stock and haven't had the probe samples exceed samples_tolerance error a single time. Running V4.4.19
Thanks good review, very informative. You mentioned oozing with TPU, but I don't recall any comments about printing TPU. I would appreciate your opinion on printing TPU, and any recommendations for printing.
My fan shroud fell off while printing ABS and damaged the fan and gave error on the main screen and cannot reset printer, so my is down until I get support since it want me to reload config and firmware
If there is a perfect printer point me in the direction I'll take two please....................... This printer is the best bang for your buck on the market today right now thats not tiny AF. And that oozing in the front corner that doesn't happen with mine
I have had this printer for close to 2 months and there are some small issues true, but it’s a very reliable printer once you get through the teething issues. On the filament runout sensor it needs to be turned on in fluidd. Seems like it should be on by default but it’s not. Ever after talking to Qidi Tech support they never mentioned that to me. It’s in the setup section and it’s called “fila” right at the bottom of the page. Not sure if you have been told or not but just in case thought I would mention. The camera is a mystery to set up but I just set about the camera config file and activated almost all relating to web camera setting and both time lapse and app now work. I’m on iPhone iOS but I’m not sure how I did it to be honest. Again no one had that info from Qidi Tech. They are helpful in general but it’s early doors with this printer so maybe once they fully understand the setup themselves it will be less of an issue in the future.
Hi dude, i'm totally aware of the sensor not being on i talked about it in the first look. Mine just isn't relaible, it works after you pause the print and push the runoutsensor in a few times so maybe i just have a bad sensor. They also seem to not have a clue how to fix my camera issue, i did fail to mention that you need to add a line of code to your slicer start gcode to make it work. TIMELAPSE_TAKE_FRAME, if i do this the console gets mad every layer and says take frame ignored because.... just those little things but like you mentioned the printer itself is a chefs 💋
@@NoizieWorks ah, yes you did mention in the first look. I recall now. Yeah, Qidi are very helpful but there is a learning curve going on for sure. Get them to send you out a new extruder drive to sort the sensor out? I had a camera that was dead on the first week and they shipped out one to me the following day without any issue. Maybe the solution. Do you need a copy of the camera config file that works (i.e. from my machine) to see if it sorts out your camera issue? Happy to send if needed.
@kerwalker4246 that sounds great! You can send it to noizieworks@gmail.com I'm in contact with qidi right now as they are asking me more info about the review so yeah i will ask for a new sensor.
@NoizieWorks upgrade to full current version of Klipper and Klipper screen firmware and maybe some upgrade stl files for things like top cover spacers with magnets, ethernet upgrade or ???
I will have to disappoint you on the firmware side, i understand it but that's about it. A riser i can do 😁 first i need to do some changes in the shop, it's so trashed right now😅
@@NoizieWorks If you really consider making a new video about it, try to seal the gaps between walls and the back, and the gaps that are situated on the left and right to the poop bin (right where the belt tensioners are), just did that to mine. Have seen some stls that helped to cool the hotend better. Bambu-like filament cutter. A ventilation upgrade would be nice to see(the one on the back) . Maybe some handy tool storage\usb container, try to tell more about the ptfe tube and the first layer problem in general. And maybe qidi(or a mate in the comments section) reached you to tell you how to enable the timelapse? Or cover some other software issues if you have found them. Anyway, great videos buddy, really enjoyed watching them!
Bonjour, jla regardé votre vidéo avec la traduction Google. Pas évident mais j'ai compris le sens de votre travail. Honnêtement je n'ai pas tout compris (j'ai 71 ans) mais assez pour me fier à votre jugement. Cordialement
Great news, smooth plates are going to be available soon!
Are they going to be double sided with smooth on one side and textured on the other side
@jamesmason7124 Smooth and textured 👌👌 like it should have been from the start. Here is the link, it's not available yet qidi3d.com/products/q1-pro-smooth-plate?_gl=1*1tu8abu*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTE0OTcxMjE4Mi4xNzE1NDQ0NTg1*_ga_KX2C50P9X7*MTcxNTQ0NDU4NC4xLjAuMTcxNTQ0NDU5Ni4wLjAuMA..&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpJLlhoGGhgMVMqaDBx0f-wdrEAAYASAAEgK7GvD_BwE
My Q1 Pro arrived today. I will be setting it up tonite. I was on Qidi's site today and they had a smooth plate available.
Nice! They didn't last week so there goes 1 complaint 🙂 edit: seems to be a place holder as there is no stock but yay anyway!
How is it so far?
@@alexzanderroberts995 didn't test smooth plate yet but it's still printing like a champ
Can the front door be removed, and with it off would that reduce the performance of the printer (e.g. temperature-wise)?
Just ordered my Q1. Can’t wait to get it in.
It has a few flaws, but I think this is the most capable printer for the money, or for even a few $100 more, hands down. Top of my list of potential next printer purchases.
This is of course a first batch review sample and most issues are already fixed on the second batch so it's absolutely one of the best deals out there right now.
@@NoizieWorks I had heard changes were inbound as well. Even as it launched, the ability to print ABS, nylon, and other difficult filaments so well made it a winner. I'm wondering what the next Qidi offering will be. NeedItMakeIt Mike is a friend of mine BTW, thanks for shouting him out! He has made some awesome models and videos.
@802Garage Nice! Say hi to him from me and the next printer looks to be... 🤫🤐
@@NoizieWorks Oooooh gonna sub for that video!!!
just got my machine and looks like they changed a few things. they added the alignment corners for the plate. they moved the purge bucket towards the center.
Really, great to know!
I replaced the nozzle with aliexpress hardened cht clone. Got a 33% flow increase.
Nice, what speed do you run?
Great review. I've had good luck with the run-out sensor working correctly. I just started printing with TPU, and it's been doing a great job. There were no issues with it spewing out filament while it was heating. However, the issue that I agree with you on is the timelapse issue. I cannot get that to work. I haven't reached out to support yet, but I will this weekend. Overall, this printer has been fantastic. I've had no issues with printing PLA, TPU, and ABS. This printer loves different materials.
Do you get the same error message in console?
@@NoizieWorks, I don't get an error on the console. When I add the Gcode for timelapse in OcraSlicer, the printer behavior completely changes. The movements are super rough, and the print quality is horrible as the printer becomes jerky. It's odd. Once I remove that Gcode for the timelapse, the printer behavior returns to normal.
TIMELAPSE_TAKE_FRAME is this the code you added to the start gcode?
@@NoizieWorks I added it to the Time Lapse Gcode in OcraSlicer.
how much longer did your bowden tube have to be?
I would say it's about 2/3cm longer, didn't measure it. Just trimmed it untill it sits nice
Can you give some details on the Bowden tube replacement? What size tube, how long, etc. This is my first 3d printer, so my knowledge base is bupkus.
I ordered a random 1 meter pack with 2mm inner and 4mm outer diameter. I just cut it a few cm longer and trimmed it until it wasn't hitting the top lid (with the riser)
I like your style of analysis and delivery, thanks for your good work!
I do have a query about this machine. I've just received my one and have initially found it to have a pretty bad first layer, mainly due to under extrusion but also to do with areas in the build platform with inconsistent thickness of it's coating.
The software is clearly measuring filament diameter, but it's not measuring it accurately and I think that is what is causing the main part of my problem with under extrusion.
I have noticed it measuring the confirmed 1.75mm filament as 1.92mm which is then stored in the configuration somewhere. To make things work I have had to increase the flow rate by 20%, which is almost exactly the difference in cross sectional area between a 1.75mm and 1.92mm filament.
Do you have any idea where I can find the entry in the configuration files that handles this filament diameter sensor? That way I can either turn off the function or recalibrate it.
Anyway, good work, thanks and all the best, Ed.
Thanks brother, as far as i know and found in the config it's only for the filament runout where the filament has to fall between i think 1.2 and 1.9mm to give the ok.
It's not using it to dynamically adjust flow.
20% is A LOT and doesn't sound normal to me.
My inconsistency came from a bowed bed and pinching tubing in the corners so if you underextrude in the normal layers you have another problem.
@@NoizieWorks Yep, that is a lot! Thanks for the heads up on that filament measuring function, although mine is still giving the go ahead on 1.92mm it's nice to know it's not actually using that to adjust the rate it pushes the filament through. I'll have a look and see if I can determine what's causing it when I get a chance. It's certainly extruding nicely with a consistent flow rate, so the only thing I can think of is a grossly out of place steps per millimetre of filament setting, although I can barely believe that would be the case. I'll also try without that sharply bent delivery tube.
Thanks man, excellent reply, and fast too!
@@NoizieWorks Okay, so this is what I found....
My initial test was erroneous and increasing flow rate was only a method of masking bad bed leveling.
I found the steps per millimetre for the extruder were spot on and that the build plate has a small variance in the thickness of it's coating which is considerable in one particular spot.
To solve this I did two things, firstly I turned the build plate over, then I changed the probe (smart_effector in the config file) speed from 10 to 3, increased samples from 2 to 3, changed the retract distance from 3 to 2 and changed the samples tolerance from 0.05 to 0.01. This effectively slowed the process down and resulted in a bed mesh variance of 0.47mm instead of 0.68mm, all done with a hot soaked bed at 60°c.
Result, the most perfect first layer test I've ever seen!!
On a side note I also found this...
The home all macro has the bed drop by 5mm before anything else happens, if the bed is already at the bottom of its travel dropping it a further 5mm will crash the linear rod bearings into the bottom casing, my fix was in the stepper_z entry in the config file, I changed position_max from 148mm to 135mm. I know those numbers don't look right, but 135mm was the maximum I could have it to stop the crashing. I assume the z offset is included in the max build volume which in my case is about 3.5 mm, so 135+3.5 gives a max z axis or model height of 138.5mm.
One question you might be able to help with since this is the first few hours I've ever seen fluidd and klipper; how does the g code viewer at the bottom right corner of the fluidd interface work? My one only shows an outline of the part but no layer or progress information, all the settings options are greyed out too!
Anyway, I hope this helps someone, all the best, Ed.
Great to hear brother! About the gcode viewer you have to load the file not sure how it's called but it's above the preview.
@@NoizieWorks cool man, I'll see if I do that.
3:37 i dont know how thick those flexable sheets are but something tells me aviation snips will do fine.
Depends on the brand, creality has thin springsteel sheets and the sheets from qidi are thicker.
Anything up to a millimeter can normally be done with good snips, my build plate would require a band saw or a mill because it's like 3mm thick (cr10 max)
Could you possibly do your mechanical tests with some filaments as well? I am torn between the Qidi Q1 Pro and the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra, and there are so few reviewers who do proper mechanical tests... Everyone always says resin prints are so weak and brittle, but I am sure some of the newer engineering resins could give the filaments a run for their money! Also have a look at post cure heat treating at 60C or 80C as shown by CNC kitchen and Formlabs which increases resin parts' strength by 10-20%. I think then the resins might really challenge the filaments in terms of strength, especially due to the isotropic strength of the resin prints.
Yes, i will dive into filaments and alternative "curing" as well
3:31 yet you suggested a beapoke pogo pin setup for the fan, just unplug the cable.
Proprietary/ nonstandard closed source parts are just bad for the entire industry so its best we keep things pretty open.
I added the buildplate fix to my Q1 Pro. My Q1 Pro then started having the gremlins with probe samples exceed samples_tolerance error. I removed it and went back stock and it completely went away. I honestly have no clue what is happening. I have done 20 prints since going back to stock and haven't had the probe samples exceed samples_tolerance error a single time. Running
V4.4.19
Yup that's the one, well mine is stock and i have it to (still on the .18)
Thanks good review, very informative. You mentioned oozing with TPU, but I don't recall any comments about printing TPU. I would appreciate your opinion on printing TPU, and any recommendations for printing.
It's in the first look video if you want to see all the materials tested but in short It printed the tpu torture toaster no problem.
I can find a ton of 250x250 build plates on US Amazon. Not sure about other countries.
could be, EU not so much
My fan shroud fell off while printing ABS and damaged the fan and gave error on the main screen and cannot reset printer, so my is down until I get support since it want me to reload config and firmware
Damn.. that's to bad, ripped the cables off the fan?
thanks for the review, would it be possible to share the STL file for the riser
It's a very bad riser with bad tolerance so i would look for somewhere else.
If there is a perfect printer point me in the direction I'll take two please....................... This printer is the best bang for your buck on the market today right now thats not tiny AF. And that oozing in the front corner that doesn't happen with mine
Yup that's all true 🙂
I'd pay more and get the p1s, imo
@@JohnSmith-rt5yq yeah if you want to have problems printing ABS ASA and other high temp materials that require a heated chamber
How long was your PTFE tube?
I just installed it to long and cut it to length untill it had a nice curve. If i have to do a guess about 1-2 cm longer
Is the QiDi Q1 Pro a open source printer?
@@AnonymousHippo5 no
What do you mean the firmware is open on github and so is the slicer???
@AboutDaWorld yes but the printer itself is closed source so no copying parts to reprint/replace or to do reverse engineering on the machine.
I have had this printer for close to 2 months and there are some small issues true, but it’s a very reliable printer once you get through the teething issues. On the filament runout sensor it needs to be turned on in fluidd. Seems like it should be on by default but it’s not. Ever after talking to Qidi Tech support they never mentioned that to me. It’s in the setup section and it’s called “fila” right at the bottom of the page. Not sure if you have been told or not but just in case thought I would mention. The camera is a mystery to set up but I just set about the camera config file and activated almost all relating to web camera setting and both time lapse and app now work. I’m on iPhone iOS but I’m not sure how I did it to be honest. Again no one had that info from Qidi Tech. They are helpful in general but it’s early doors with this printer so maybe once they fully understand the setup themselves it will be less of an issue in the future.
Hi dude, i'm totally aware of the sensor not being on i talked about it in the first look.
Mine just isn't relaible, it works after you pause the print and push the runoutsensor in a few times so maybe i just have a bad sensor.
They also seem to not have a clue how to fix my camera issue, i did fail to mention that you need to add a line of code to your slicer start gcode to make it work. TIMELAPSE_TAKE_FRAME, if i do this the console gets mad every layer and says take frame ignored because.... just those little things but like you mentioned the printer itself is a chefs 💋
@@NoizieWorks ah, yes you did mention in the first look. I recall now. Yeah, Qidi are very helpful but there is a learning curve going on for sure. Get them to send you out a new extruder drive to sort the sensor out? I had a camera that was dead on the first week and they shipped out one to me the following day without any issue. Maybe the solution. Do you need a copy of the camera config file that works (i.e. from my machine) to see if it sorts out your camera issue? Happy to send if needed.
@kerwalker4246 that sounds great! You can send it to noizieworks@gmail.com
I'm in contact with qidi right now as they are asking me more info about the review so yeah i will ask for a new sensor.
@@NoizieWorks sent. 👍
Could you share the riser STL?
The design is shit and i wouldn't do you any favor with sharing it
I love my q1 pro prints so good but don't update klipper
Yup 🙂
Please make more Qidi Tech Q1 pro videos Please, maybe some about modifications
What do you have in mind of upgrades?
@NoizieWorks upgrade to full current version of Klipper and Klipper screen firmware and maybe some upgrade stl files for things like top cover spacers with magnets, ethernet upgrade or ???
I will have to disappoint you on the firmware side, i understand it but that's about it. A riser i can do 😁 first i need to do some changes in the shop, it's so trashed right now😅
@@NoizieWorks If you really consider making a new video about it, try to seal the gaps between walls and the back, and the gaps that are situated on the left and right to the poop bin (right where the belt tensioners are), just did that to mine.
Have seen some stls that helped to cool the hotend better. Bambu-like filament cutter.
A ventilation upgrade would be nice to see(the one on the back) .
Maybe some handy tool storage\usb container, try to tell more about the ptfe tube and the first layer problem in general.
And maybe qidi(or a mate in the comments section) reached you to tell you how to enable the timelapse? Or cover some other software issues if you have found them.
Anyway, great videos buddy, really enjoyed watching them!
So q1 pro or k1c ?
@@adsss2331 imo Q1pro
so we got a creality killer while creality is trying to kill bambu labs 😅
Like a snake eating it's own tail 😆
The heater thing is a non-issue
I agree but it needs to be mentioned so they do better the next time
Bonjour, jla regardé votre vidéo avec la traduction Google. Pas évident mais j'ai compris le sens de votre travail. Honnêtement je n'ai pas tout compris (j'ai 71 ans) mais assez pour me fier à votre jugement. Cordialement
Merci et wow 71 ans ! continuez mon ami
Those errors are enough to not bother, imo. Manual cutting? What is this!
Unfortunately, the app is only available on android phones.
Octoeverywhere is a great alternative for you
Tad bit = 2mm
Nailed it 😆
фиговый с тебя печатник.
k1 is v pooor printer...
Yes!