The Q1 Pro that is now being delivered is revised and has some improvements (Q1 Pro v2). Things like the LAN port, side filament entry, build plate stops, power switch is now easily reachable from the left were adressed. They also have in the meantime released some gcode files for am ore robust spool holder - top or sideways mount.
I noticed that in my version as it had those upgrades that most reviews were missing eg build plate tabs and Ethernet port. It's good to see those improvements without putting it out as a new model like the creality k1c
THE FIRST review I see which shows ACTUAL max acceleration based on measurements (or acceleration tower test, which would show the broadening of the gap). You earned a subscriber.
Thanks for sharing. My friend purchased a Q1 Pro and received it a couple days ago. It has all the negative things fixed and latest firmware installed. We printed a few things and so far, it is the Ultimate ABS Printing Machine. It prints ABS at 200mms with the accuracy that a Prusa or Bambu Lab prints PLA. Comparison of the BBL P1S to the Qidi Q1 Pro is like comparing an SUV to a Pickup, they are Printers but have different target uses. Q1 Pro is all about ABS and some other High Temp plastics needing a Heated Chamber. P1S is all about PLA and PETG and other plastics that don't need high heat. You want to print ABS? Get a Qidi. You want to print PLA and PETG? Get a BBL with AMS (A1 Combo would be my choice). Then you will have the Best of Both Worlds. If you buy them both on sale then you can get a Qidi Q1 Pro and an A1 Combo with AMS for only $130 more than the regular price of a P1S Combo. Think about that. Also, get your 3D Printer before the Tariffs start or you could be paying 50 percent more. BTW, the Qidi takes up very little space IMO but does need at least 4 inches of open space behind it. The spool holder works fine. The rear power switch is the worst feature. At $380 including shipping, the Q1 Pro is a great value if you are printing ABS
5:15 cnc kitchen did a test and determined that the reason why brass nozzles grind down over time is because the nozzle is dragged over the cooled filament. However, The path that the filament takes through the nozzle is not ground down at all practically, because the filament is hot at that time, and the carbon fibers can move inside of the viscous liquid. As far as the extruder gears, The filament is not viscous.... But also the filament is not scraping as a nozzle would across a cooled part... So I am not sure how this will fare in time, But just wanted to add those two cents.
These reviews are so good. Every question I may have had is answered and more. The editing is spot on, great shots as well and the whole thing makes retention easy. Love the historical issues and fixes too, nice touch.
I received my Q1 Pro two weeks back, purchased after owning and having great success with my Qidi XSmart3. Just running some PETG prints tonight on the Q1 like the XSmart3 flawless prints every time running at 240mm/s settings. Still lots to learn with Fluidd have to figure out how to set up to record videos with Fluidd where I can save timelapse. That would be good one to add for the Tube. Love my new Qidi printers to date. Just bought some higher price nylon and CF will be testing out next. At $469 with filament runout detection and bad print detection plus heated chamber this is a great buy. To date both Qidi machines have extremely high print success rate. They even print nice prints at higher speeds.
I would rather go with a company that makes mistakes and stands by its product after the sale (Qidi). Unlike a company like Creality that releases shit, doesn't respond to emails and moves on.
I've just ordered one. It's frustrating that Qidi use a non-standard nozzle as I'd like to be able to easily use third party volcano nozzles but apparently that can be solved with a minor tweak as the length is only 2mm different.
@@petercallison5765 where did you get one? I'm thinking about getting this for my next printer but I'd probably want to use V6 nozzles since that's what my other printer uses
The material choice for the nozzle is plated copper, which should have as good or better thermal conductivity than brass. Plated copper nozzles can also go to higher temperatures than brass.
The nozzle is not used for the mesh, because it is significantly worse in accuracy, the inductive probe is a lot better. The nozzle probe is good enough for getting a nozzle offset or even the bed mesh, but the inductive probe is more accurate in other regards, no reason not to use it. Here are my results of probe accuracy: nozzle probe: range 0.041718 stddev: 0.013429 inductive probe: range 0.007344 stddev: 0.002062 Now another problem is that, why is the piezo nozzle probe not as accurate as one would expect? Well, I don’t know, but I do hope it was better. Slowing probing speed down could lead to the piezo not generating enough voltage to trigger, so that’s not a solution. I guess we’ll just have to accept it.
I would get rid of the locking ring for the bowden tube on the toolhead: it will stay in place anyway during print due to filament tension, only it will go backwards when large retracts are commanded.
Maybe it was a typo in regards to the camera of the Q1 Pro. The default resolution is 1920x1080. Although it's higher, the processor doesn't spend times scaling and the scale algorithm is a very "shallow" one. So at the default 1080p it runs at the same 10-11fps and looks much better. The scaling down done in the fluidd interface is done locally and results in much better video quality.
Nice review! To me, this is the new best all around printer for the money. I really want to get one. The print quality I have seen from reviews is generally fantastic. I also really want the advanced filament capabilities. It's not perfect, of course, but channels like NeedItMakeIt are already making mods to ease some of the gripes and it just seems really solid overall. Would be cool to see you print something out of an exotic material on it!
Was pleasantly surprised at the results and the speed I'm getting plus the way these things generally don't need glue and hold down really well means I'm actually enjoying 3d printing vs failures 60 percent of the time on my cr10s as it had a tendency to knock over stuff with the tool head.
The CF Nylon rocks on Q1 pro! Favorite filament by far. Printed some incredibly large prints this week final item stands 24 inches tall once assembled, flawless prints! Took 9 hrs on my ender would have failed and would take over 60 hrs for same.
Great overview with details. Appreciated the overview of their history when they were first competing with bambu. Their previous Gen was poor and kinda made me to write Qidi off as a no go and i bought a bambu lab printer instead. This video on their newest printer make me to likely consider qidi again
Thanks for the very informative review. I was considering ?M Pro but with its limited 280 C nozzle, I believe I believe the Q1 Pro is a better choice. It appears to print TPU fairly well, which has been one of my biggest concerns.
Did you miss the 3 point manual adjustment of the bed I believe it has which would negate your belief that the bed isn't adjustable at the third point?
I would be really interested in how it handles largers ABS parts. I've seen some reviews where the corners of the steel sheet lift up because the magnet sticker ist not strong enough.
Good suggestions on some settings that might be changed. I ordered this printer and it should be here by the end of the week. It is quite an upgrade for me coming from an early Ender 3. The slinging bed always ruined the moon lamp print after 24hrs so I am hoping to finish it this time. So many new things like not having to run in with an sd card to print, controlled temp chamber, camera, auto bed level and self feeding printhead all combine to make this as exciting as when I did my first 3D print.
I just bought a new Q1 Pro and they now have an ethernet port in the back and I've been debating whether to use that or the Wi-Fi because I could do either one and I'm not that far from the router so I'll probably give it a shot.
@@mohammadhabbal3691 obviously More to the table then that lol most filiment doesn't need over 300c and you can add a heated chamber for a small 50 upgrade if you so wish so if he's happy with how reliable the bambu is these very small differences don't mean anything
@@jamierichards925whatever bro. Different standards for different companies and prices. The QIDI would have to make coffee and walk your dog before the Bambu Stans would even notice 😂
What made you go for both? I assume most people realize the the X1c has a bunch of useless doo-dads that add cost. I went P1S with AMS over X1c hopefully the “X2” will bring the prices down on the earlier models.
Nice review! You covered a lot of areas that other reviewers did not. I have older X-Plus that I ran exclusively with Polymaker PC Max that I was very happy with despite a few flaws (even made a custom upgraded “Icarus” print head for it). I almost pulled the trigger on a new P1S with integrated AMS, but the Q1 Pro at the preorder price of $469 (actually $454 and free shipping with an extra incentive discount) was just too crazy to pass up. Plus I’m all about engineering materials, not multicolor artsy stuff. I’ve also seen some really nice ABS and PC prints coming from other reviewers testing the Q1 Pro. I’ll probably incorporate a sealed filament spool dry box into my Q1 Pro. Won’t be as slick as the AMS but it’ll do the job, and all waaaay less than $1000+ P1S/AMS price tag😊
Thanks for the review, what I haven't seen in any review is hands-on what I can do with this printer than I cant with my X1C. For example, is it true that the heated chamber can allow better layer adhesion for some materials, what else can you do with the heated chamber and the extra 50C temperature for the hotend.
Thanks for watching! The heated chamber helps with ABS. Less warping and better layer adhesion. But even a passively heated chamber like that on the X1C can get up to around 40C, which is workable as well. Stefan from CNC Kitchen did a good comparison video to show the actual tangible benefit of a heated chamber. The extra 50C on the hotend will only be beneficial for engineering grade materials like polycarbonate.
@coledavidson5630 I've had good luck on some of the lower temp nylons. I'm looking at the qidi specifically because ALL i do is functional prints and I'm limited by temp, that 350° (and heated chamber- I've made due without it thus far so I don't know what I'm missing) is what gets me excited, I've been making due with the lesser engineering
cool, ive been using the slicer that came with the machine, and the website none of the Software Firmare buttons work, the mobile app is in chinese when you install it too.
@mav68nrs yea I downloaded the app but it's the same screen as the web browser so it's not really needed you can't use it remotely you have to be connected to the wifi that the machine is on
@@KaloyanDobrev 😢 Aww, did QIDI hurt your feelings? Go watch the other 5 vids where they trash the Q1 to make sure daddy Bambu keeps the checks coming 😂
Really nice video thank you, I brought one, and was wondering how to setup the Exclude object in Klipper, as like you said in the video it’s missing and I think this would be a nice feature to have. Thanks for your time.
I plan to use a Trianglelab WIDI adapter to be able to install a CHT nozzle. While true that 14 mm^3/s is enough, I want to be sure to still get maximum layer adhesion at that speed, which as of not it might not be true (see channel DIY PERSPECTIVE).
It’s a solid printer as well. And less than $1000 I think with recent price reduction, so not badly priced. Not sure how that compares to K1 Max. It’s gotten a lot of updates since it was first released so it’s at the point now where it’s pretty polished. It’s missing a few of the new features from the Q1, like tangle detection and gantry leveling, but still a good printer.
The Max 3 is a great printer think it at $849 or so. I am going to wait a bit to see if they release a new dual extruder large format, perhaps one that includes multi filament. I can see where having second extruder for support would be nice. I will say both my Qidi Xsmart3 and Q1 do a fine job with supports. Im willing to wait until Spring 2025 before hopping into large format printer, in hopes Qidi has new large format machine. The Max 3 is a very nice machine, capable of printing large parts reliably. They offer superior customer support, very happy.
I never messed with klipper before, how do you get to the printer.cfg to change the max accel? I'd like to do that for this machine as well, I just got one. Thanks
im new to 3d printing and cant choose what to get the p1s or q1 pro or somewthing els. i heard that the p1s has y axis bearing problems that make it not replaceable. any advise is welcomed
Nozzle -> Creality K1/K1 Max addon hotends ship with full COPPER nozzle with hardened steel insert! Imagine my surprise that spare part ordered with the machine is better specced than the original, which afaik was just brass / nickel plated copper. (had blob of death, so couldn't double check ... perhaps i should burn out the nozzle and see, didn't trash yet)
That flow rate of Qidi Q1 is **ABYSMAL**. Stock SV07 Plus with brass nozzle does 24mm3/s reliably (peak 26-28mm3/s) with PLA. Elegoo's counterpart does 20-21mm3/s, and Creality K1 does _according to default profiles_ something like 23mm3/s but i have not tested (it werks, don't touch!). To best of my knowledge K1 CHCB-OT w/ CHT Nozzle goes well north of 30mm3/s. All measurements at 0.4mm nozzle size
and even with those flow rates, i'm almost always flow rate limited on my prints :O It's very easy to tune to flow rate max instead of speed max these days.
As an engineer, I always get triggered when someone says it is 245mm^3. The build are is 245mmx245mnx245mm, that is 14.706.125mm^3. Sorry to be so petty but I had to say it...
The issue is perspective. He is saying 245 cubed as in a cube that is 245mm you are looking at it from a math equation standpoint. He didn't say 245^ he said 245 cubed.
Im always curious how easy the machines are to mod/maintain, especially with the plastic body style. Is the cable chain loom easily accessed and replaceable? And if you SSH into the printer and use htop, is the Raspberry pi clone CPU being maxed out with almost no overhead like on the creality K1 series? Its also hard for me to see from the video if there is room to add carbon filtration. Maybe I should just put the entire unit into a negative pressure cabinet with a fish tank air pump venting air to outside? Is that a crazy idea? The idea being that you minimize the volume of costly air conditioned air being vented away while the slight negative pressure cabinet prevents fumes from escaping. One concern would be the cabinet might get too hot for the electronics...
@@Kimberlie1 I'm hesitant to trust a tiny carbon filter as well, the impression I got from reading peoples accounts is that the fumes saturate the carbon pretty quickly, obviously depending on how much you print.
@@honkbeforeitstoolate587 It does, so I'll be diligent about replacing the activated charcoal in it and opening the windows to ventilate as I print. I'm sure they've received customer demand for carbon filters and will be looking at ways to upgrade this. They always do like this.
@@honkbeforeitstoolate587yeah I would much rather be able to add on a duct leading out the window or something. I have a setup like that currently on a printer in an enclosure that came separately, and I like it that way
@@ygk3d I can’t wait for the fully open source version of the firmware for this printer. Someone will do it very soon I guess, given obsolete klipper etc.
Is that warping @10:40? I guess it doesn't matter how new a printer is, if it has an enclosure, or if it has a heater, it won't magically solve this problem!
Qidi has non hardened gears, they have different. Design extruders on every printer, seems they dont know what they are doing. Better option is adventurer 5m pro it just works.
Problem is, the P1S isn't massively more expensive than this & it's really hard to see why anyone would choose this rather than saving a little more and getting a far more refined product.
@@drconflict629you have Bambu which has an amazing track record of reliability vs a company that has had many design issues and finally found some traction. I’ll stick with bambu for now
Why are the printers so damn ugly? 80-90's plastic And that filament change routine has the just enough jank to remind me why I dont just buy a printer because of a spec list. The actual user experience on top of the tech has to match.
@@riba2233 not for the Q1 in principle, but the Q1 already supports 65C in firmware, they advertise 60C because of heat losses, HENCE by insulating you can reach the 65C the firmware already lets you set
@@olafmarzocchi6194 in that case it is better to add proper insulation foam on the inside. And you can manually configure max chamber temp in klipper anyways
Some feedback: You make great, professional quality videos about subjects I am interested in. BUT.... your voice. You speak with a TON of vocal fry, which often makes it very hard to hear the last word in a sentence and the last parts of words - the sound kind of fades into nothingness and abruptly stops. This could be exaggerated by a noise canceling algorithm in the mic recording too, though I'm not sure.
Mediocre? Seeing that it's one of a few printers available in the consumer space capable of printing PPS CF w/ its' 350c hot end and 120c bed along with actively heated chamber this is far from mediocre. If I wanted a PLA toy printer I'd get a Creality, Bambu or whatever.
The Q1 Pro that is now being delivered is revised and has some improvements (Q1 Pro v2). Things like the LAN port, side filament entry, build plate stops, power switch is now easily reachable from the left were adressed. They also have in the meantime released some gcode files for am ore robust spool holder - top or sideways mount.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Szkoda, że nie zrobili tego od razu. Ktoś kupił te wcześniejsze wersje i jest zły.
@@Irek_Poland Agreed. At least they reacted to the feedback. Maybe talk with Qiditech, they are very friendly
I noticed that in my version as it had those upgrades that most reviews were missing eg build plate tabs and Ethernet port. It's good to see those improvements without putting it out as a new model like the creality k1c
@@ygk3d also apparently build plate is bigger now
THE FIRST review I see which shows ACTUAL max acceleration based on measurements (or acceleration tower test, which would show the broadening of the gap).
You earned a subscriber.
Thanks for sharing. My friend purchased a Q1 Pro and received it a couple days ago. It has all the negative things fixed and latest firmware installed. We printed a few things and so far, it is the Ultimate ABS Printing Machine. It prints ABS at 200mms with the accuracy that a Prusa or Bambu Lab prints PLA. Comparison of the BBL P1S to the Qidi Q1 Pro is like comparing an SUV to a Pickup, they are Printers but have different target uses. Q1 Pro is all about ABS and some other High Temp plastics needing a Heated Chamber. P1S is all about PLA and PETG and other plastics that don't need high heat. You want to print ABS? Get a Qidi. You want to print PLA and PETG? Get a BBL with AMS (A1 Combo would be my choice). Then you will have the Best of Both Worlds. If you buy them both on sale then you can get a Qidi Q1 Pro and an A1 Combo with AMS for only $130 more than the regular price of a P1S Combo. Think about that. Also, get your 3D Printer before the Tariffs start or you could be paying 50 percent more. BTW, the Qidi takes up very little space IMO but does need at least 4 inches of open space behind it. The spool holder works fine. The rear power switch is the worst feature. At $380 including shipping, the Q1 Pro is a great value if you are printing ABS
5:15 cnc kitchen did a test and determined that the reason why brass nozzles grind down over time is because the nozzle is dragged over the cooled filament.
However, The path that the filament takes through the nozzle is not ground down at all practically, because the filament is hot at that time, and the carbon fibers can move inside of the viscous liquid.
As far as the extruder gears, The filament is not viscous.... But also the filament is not scraping as a nozzle would across a cooled part... So I am not sure how this will fare in time, But just wanted to add those two cents.
Thanks for sharing! Good insights.
Also it is hardened so no worries anyways ;)
These reviews are so good. Every question I may have had is answered and more. The editing is spot on, great shots as well and the whole thing makes retention easy. Love the historical issues and fixes too, nice touch.
@@Archivort thank you very much!
I received my Q1 Pro two weeks back, purchased after owning and having great success with my Qidi XSmart3. Just running some PETG prints tonight on the Q1 like the XSmart3 flawless prints every time running at 240mm/s settings. Still lots to learn with Fluidd have to figure out how to set up to record videos with Fluidd where I can save timelapse. That would be good one to add for the Tube. Love my new Qidi printers to date. Just bought some higher price nylon and CF will be testing out next. At $469 with filament runout detection and bad print detection plus heated chamber this is a great buy. To date both Qidi machines have extremely high print success rate. They even print nice prints at higher speeds.
I would rather go with a company that makes mistakes and stands by its product after the sale (Qidi). Unlike a company like Creality that releases shit, doesn't respond to emails and moves on.
I've just ordered one. It's frustrating that Qidi use a non-standard nozzle as I'd like to be able to easily use third party volcano nozzles but apparently that can be solved with a minor tweak as the length is only 2mm different.
You can get an adapter that works with V6 nozzles.
@@petercallison5765 where did you get one? I'm thinking about getting this for my next printer but I'd probably want to use V6 nozzles since that's what my other printer uses
The material choice for the nozzle is plated copper, which should have as good or better thermal conductivity than brass. Plated copper nozzles can also go to higher temperatures than brass.
Ah, that makes much more sense. Thanks for pointing that out!
The nozzle is not used for the mesh, because it is significantly worse in accuracy, the inductive probe is a lot better. The nozzle probe is good enough for getting a nozzle offset or even the bed mesh, but the inductive probe is more accurate in other regards, no reason not to use it. Here are my results of probe accuracy:
nozzle probe: range 0.041718 stddev: 0.013429
inductive probe: range 0.007344 stddev: 0.002062
Now another problem is that, why is the piezo nozzle probe not as accurate as one would expect? Well, I don’t know, but I do hope it was better. Slowing probing speed down could lead to the piezo not generating enough voltage to trigger, so that’s not a solution. I guess we’ll just have to accept it.
That’s interesting! Thanks for sharing these insights.
I would get rid of the locking ring for the bowden tube on the toolhead: it will stay in place anyway during print due to filament tension, only it will go backwards when large retracts are commanded.
Maybe it was a typo in regards to the camera of the Q1 Pro. The default resolution is 1920x1080. Although it's higher, the processor doesn't spend times scaling and the scale algorithm is a very "shallow" one. So at the default 1080p it runs at the same 10-11fps and looks much better. The scaling down done in the fluidd interface is done locally and results in much better video quality.
Nice review! To me, this is the new best all around printer for the money. I really want to get one. The print quality I have seen from reviews is generally fantastic. I also really want the advanced filament capabilities. It's not perfect, of course, but channels like NeedItMakeIt are already making mods to ease some of the gripes and it just seems really solid overall. Would be cool to see you print something out of an exotic material on it!
Thanks man! Totally agree with you on that.
Was pleasantly surprised at the results and the speed I'm getting plus the way these things generally don't need glue and hold down really well means I'm actually enjoying 3d printing vs failures 60 percent of the time on my cr10s as it had a tendency to knock over stuff with the tool head.
The CF Nylon rocks on Q1 pro! Favorite filament by far. Printed some incredibly large prints this week final item stands 24 inches tall once assembled, flawless prints! Took 9 hrs on my ender would have failed and would take over 60 hrs for same.
@@JTs3DPrints good stuff!
First upgrade will be that PSU to a Meanwell... if I recall that PSU in the Q1 has a fan that always spins.
I’ve got a max3 qidi are amazing at responding to issues and send out parts for warranty no questions asked. Amazing.
Great overview with details. Appreciated the overview of their history when they were first competing with bambu. Their previous Gen was poor and kinda made me to write Qidi off as a no go and i bought a bambu lab printer instead. This video on their newest printer make me to likely consider qidi again
Thank you very much!
Got the Qidi X Max 3 they are so underrated but so good Printers, Huge Build Volume, fast Speed, Heated Chamber
Thanks for the very informative review. I was considering ?M Pro but with its limited 280 C nozzle, I believe I believe the Q1 Pro is a better choice. It appears to print TPU fairly well, which has been one of my biggest concerns.
So once input shaper is properly calibrated, you'd say that this prints at about the same quality as a Bambu?
Thanks for the flow test. Great review.
Did you miss the 3 point manual adjustment of the bed I believe it has which would negate your belief that the bed isn't adjustable at the third point?
I would be really interested in how it handles largers ABS parts.
I've seen some reviews where the corners of the steel sheet lift up because the magnet sticker ist not strong enough.
They either strengthened the magnets or something was very faulty as mine is so strong it takes significant effort to take off the build plate.
Good suggestions on some settings that might be changed. I ordered this printer and it should be here by the end of the week. It is quite an upgrade for me coming from an early Ender 3. The slinging bed always ruined the moon lamp print after 24hrs so I am hoping to finish it this time. So many new things like not having to run in with an sd card to print, controlled temp chamber, camera, auto bed level and self feeding printhead all combine to make this as exciting as when I did my first 3D print.
I’ve printed about 15 moon lamps on my old Ankermake m5c and it’s never ruined one, I eventually got down to 16hrs print time with no lost detail.
W tej samej cenie masz Creality K1C.
Bez tych wszystkich problemów Q1.
Confused... unless they changed things the specs say it's a 64bit ARM and the extruder gears are also said to be hardened steel.
The gears that grip the filament are steel. The gears that drive them are plastic.
Great review! A good perspective
Thank you!
I just bought a new Q1 Pro and they now have an ethernet port in the back and I've been debating whether to use that or the Wi-Fi because I could do either one and I'm not that far from the router so I'll probably give it a shot.
I have had such good luck with my Bambu X1C and P1P that I would have a hard time switching to anything else that didn't bring more to the table.
is a heated chamber and 350 degree head more to the table?
@@mohammadhabbal3691 Maybe... if I had that requirement.
@@mohammadhabbal3691 obviously More to the table then that lol most filiment doesn't need over 300c and you can add a heated chamber for a small 50 upgrade if you so wish so if he's happy with how reliable the bambu is these very small differences don't mean anything
@@jamierichards925whatever bro. Different standards for different companies and prices. The QIDI would have to make coffee and walk your dog before the Bambu Stans would even notice 😂
What made you go for both? I assume most people realize the the X1c has a bunch of useless doo-dads that add cost. I went P1S with AMS over X1c hopefully the “X2” will bring the prices down on the earlier models.
1080x720? That’s a new resolution to me. 😆 Great review though. 👍🏻
Nice review! You covered a lot of areas that other reviewers did not. I have older X-Plus that I ran exclusively with Polymaker PC Max that I was very happy with despite a few flaws (even made a custom upgraded “Icarus” print head for it). I almost pulled the trigger on a new P1S with integrated AMS, but the Q1 Pro at the preorder price of $469 (actually $454 and free shipping with an extra incentive discount) was just too crazy to pass up. Plus I’m all about engineering materials, not multicolor artsy stuff. I’ve also seen some really nice ABS and PC prints coming from other reviewers testing the Q1 Pro. I’ll probably incorporate a sealed filament spool dry box into my Q1 Pro. Won’t be as slick as the AMS but it’ll do the job, and all waaaay less than $1000+ P1S/AMS price tag😊
Thank you! Great points.
If you like engineering material you should be able to do PPS CF on the Q1 Pro as well.
Thanks for the review, what I haven't seen in any review is hands-on what I can do with this printer than I cant with my X1C. For example, is it true that the heated chamber can allow better layer adhesion for some materials, what else can you do with the heated chamber and the extra 50C temperature for the hotend.
Thanks for watching! The heated chamber helps with ABS. Less warping and better layer adhesion. But even a passively heated chamber like that on the X1C can get up to around 40C, which is workable as well. Stefan from CNC Kitchen did a good comparison video to show the actual tangible benefit of a heated chamber. The extra 50C on the hotend will only be beneficial for engineering grade materials like polycarbonate.
Printing nylon without a heated chamber is an endless struggle
@coledavidson5630 I've had good luck on some of the lower temp nylons. I'm looking at the qidi specifically because ALL i do is functional prints and I'm limited by temp, that 350° (and heated chamber- I've made due without it thus far so I don't know what I'm missing) is what gets me excited, I've been making due with the lesser engineering
Orca 2.0rc has a default Q1 profile now
cool, ive been using the slicer that came with the machine, and the website none of the Software Firmare buttons work, the mobile app is in chinese when you install it too.
@mav68nrs yea I downloaded the app but it's the same screen as the web browser so it's not really needed you can't use it remotely you have to be connected to the wifi that the machine is on
OrcaSlicer from V2.0.0 RC Release has the profile included
Nice!
Sweet, at around 13:35 you dive into the camera settings. How do you get to tht setting and what do you type to access the setting.
This was an advertisment video, not a real review.
@@KaloyanDobrev 😢 Aww, did QIDI hurt your feelings? Go watch the other 5 vids where they trash the Q1 to make sure daddy Bambu keeps the checks coming 😂
Really nice video thank you, I brought one, and was wondering how to setup the Exclude object in Klipper, as like you said in the video it’s missing and I think this would be a nice feature to have.
Thanks for your time.
Thanks! Search exclude object in the Klipper documentation. You just need to add that section to your config to enable it.
@@ygk3d thank you for your reply, I will look at this now. 👍🏻
Its does not have Vocano form factor at 19mm length vs 21mm on Volcano nozzles.
Best review on the printer so far!
I plan to use a Trianglelab WIDI adapter to be able to install a CHT nozzle. While true that 14 mm^3/s is enough, I want to be sure to still get maximum layer adhesion at that speed, which as of not it might not be true (see channel DIY PERSPECTIVE).
Would their 0.6mm bimetal nozzles improve speed over 0.4 in any meaningful way?
Thank you.
How do you view the Qidi Max3 ?
I'm contemplating that vs. Creality K1Max.
It’s a solid printer as well. And less than $1000 I think with recent price reduction, so not badly priced. Not sure how that compares to K1 Max. It’s gotten a lot of updates since it was first released so it’s at the point now where it’s pretty polished. It’s missing a few of the new features from the Q1, like tangle detection and gantry leveling, but still a good printer.
The Max 3 is a great printer think it at $849 or so. I am going to wait a bit to see if they release a new dual extruder large format, perhaps one that includes multi filament. I can see where having second extruder for support would be nice. I will say both my Qidi Xsmart3 and Q1 do a fine job with supports. Im willing to wait until Spring 2025 before hopping into large format printer, in hopes Qidi has new large format machine. The Max 3 is a very nice machine, capable of printing large parts reliably. They offer superior customer support, very happy.
Real nice video with a lot of information. Thank you.
what about the flashforge 5m pro? comparing to this
I need a recommendation for an Idex or something that can print at least 2 color tpu prints.
Check out the Vivedino Marathon. I’ll have some content on that coming soon.
You can add heated chamber to any printer
I never messed with klipper before, how do you get to the printer.cfg to change the max accel? I'd like to do that for this machine as well, I just got one. Thanks
very easily, no worries
im new to 3d printing and cant choose what to get the p1s or q1 pro or somewthing els. i heard that the p1s has y axis bearing problems that make it not replaceable. any advise is welcomed
@@SonicXD112 I’d look at the P1S or the Qidi Plus 4.
The engineer in me thanks you for the workplace level presentation I’m accustomed to. Subscribed.
Nozzle -> Creality K1/K1 Max addon hotends ship with full COPPER nozzle with hardened steel insert! Imagine my surprise that spare part ordered with the machine is better specced than the original, which afaik was just brass / nickel plated copper. (had blob of death, so couldn't double check ... perhaps i should burn out the nozzle and see, didn't trash yet)
That flow rate of Qidi Q1 is **ABYSMAL**. Stock SV07 Plus with brass nozzle does 24mm3/s reliably (peak 26-28mm3/s) with PLA. Elegoo's counterpart does 20-21mm3/s, and Creality K1 does _according to default profiles_ something like 23mm3/s but i have not tested (it werks, don't touch!). To best of my knowledge K1 CHCB-OT w/ CHT Nozzle goes well north of 30mm3/s.
All measurements at 0.4mm nozzle size
and even with those flow rates, i'm almost always flow rate limited on my prints :O
It's very easy to tune to flow rate max instead of speed max these days.
@@skalturaIt already hits diminishing returns, as noted in the video. It's a non-issue.
Do they have a way to add a duct to the exhaust externally?
@@coledavidson5630 I don’t think so but you could probably rig something up.
1080x720? Are you sure you didn't mean 1280 for the 16:9 ratio?
Mhhh.. yeah, I think you’re right. Thanks!
The nozzle body does not seem stainless, my guess it's nickel plated copper
You’re probably right
@@ygk3d a file could tell
@@ygk3d 100%. Same thing for extruder gears, they are hardened but also plated
Brass nozzles cannot go over 300 degrees. Are you sure it is steel as nickel plated copper seems more likely.
I think you’re right.
As an engineer, I always get triggered when someone says it is 245mm^3. The build are is 245mmx245mnx245mm, that is 14.706.125mm^3. Sorry to be so petty but I had to say it...
Haha good point!
Or maybe 245^3mm^3
(245mm)^3 is also correct
The issue is perspective. He is saying 245 cubed as in a cube that is 245mm you are looking at it from a math equation standpoint. He didn't say 245^ he said 245 cubed.
(245mm)^3 is correct
Im always curious how easy the machines are to mod/maintain, especially with the plastic body style. Is the cable chain loom easily accessed and replaceable? And if you SSH into the printer and use htop, is the Raspberry pi clone CPU being maxed out with almost no overhead like on the creality K1 series?
Its also hard for me to see from the video if there is room to add carbon filtration. Maybe I should just put the entire unit into a negative pressure cabinet with a fish tank air pump venting air to outside? Is that a crazy idea? The idea being that you minimize the volume of costly air conditioned air being vented away while the slight negative pressure cabinet prevents fumes from escaping. One concern would be the cabinet might get too hot for the electronics...
You can add a carbon filter behind the chamber fan in the electronics compartment.
They've updated the wiki with a model of the carbon filter. You can print and install at the back of machine.
@@Kimberlie1 I'm hesitant to trust a tiny carbon filter as well, the impression I got from reading peoples accounts is that the fumes saturate the carbon pretty quickly, obviously depending on how much you print.
@@honkbeforeitstoolate587 It does, so I'll be diligent about replacing the activated charcoal in it and opening the windows to ventilate as I print. I'm sure they've received customer demand for carbon filters and will be looking at ways to upgrade this. They always do like this.
@@honkbeforeitstoolate587yeah I would much rather be able to add on a duct leading out the window or something. I have a setup like that currently on a printer in an enclosure that came separately, and I like it that way
Filament diameter or movement sensor it is?
I suppose it may be able to do both. Good thought!
@@ygk3d I can’t wait for the fully open source version of the firmware for this printer. Someone will do it very soon I guess, given obsolete klipper etc.
I thought this was going to be a comparison between the Q1 Pro and the P1S :S
Is that warping @10:40? I guess it doesn't matter how new a printer is, if it has an enclosure, or if it has a heater, it won't magically solve this problem!
Yes. This was on the x-max 3. It warped slightly, even with the heated chamber. I didn’t put any glue stick on the bed, which would have helped.
Would the X plus 3 work decently with bambu studio?
orca slicer.
Qidi has non hardened gears, they have different. Design extruders on every printer, seems they dont know what they are doing. Better option is adventurer 5m pro it just works.
Problem is, the P1S isn't massively more expensive than this & it's really hard to see why anyone would choose this rather than saving a little more and getting a far more refined product.
How the hell is the P1S a "far more refined product" exactly? You sound like a Bambu fanboy bro.
@@drconflict629Not to mention it's $440 vs $700
The Bambu is closed source, that's a deal breaker for many.
@@drconflict629you have Bambu which has an amazing track record of reliability vs a company that has had many design issues and finally found some traction. I’ll stick with bambu for now
@@drconflict629 because it objectively is, not discussion about that. I would still get this one though, just because of that chamber heater.
Why are the printers so damn ugly? 80-90's plastic
And that filament change routine has the just enough jank to remind me why I dont just buy a printer because of a spec list. The actual user experience on top of the tech has to match.
now they advertise 60C chamber.
Just get a cork mat or two for desktops from IKEA and stick it to the sides and back and you'll get 65C
rofl, not how it works lol
@@riba2233 not for the Q1 in principle, but the Q1 already supports 65C in firmware, they advertise 60C because of heat losses, HENCE by insulating you can reach the 65C the firmware already lets you set
@@olafmarzocchi6194 in that case it is better to add proper insulation foam on the inside. And you can manually configure max chamber temp in klipper anyways
@@riba2233 that's my plan
Some feedback:
You make great, professional quality videos about subjects I am interested in. BUT.... your voice. You speak with a TON of vocal fry, which often makes it very hard to hear the last word in a sentence and the last parts of words - the sound kind of fades into nothingness and abruptly stops. This could be exaggerated by a noise canceling algorithm in the mic recording too, though I'm not sure.
nope
Nothing Qidi makes is next generation.
Medíocre
Mediocre? Seeing that it's one of a few printers available in the consumer space capable of printing PPS CF w/ its' 350c hot end and 120c bed along with actively heated chamber this is far from mediocre. If I wanted a PLA toy printer I'd get a Creality, Bambu or whatever.