Some great tips here. At 10:50 when you said you were going to set the flow rate, what exactly were you adjusting? (I thought by adjusting the cold inlet to achieve the correct differential, we had the correct flow rate). Thanks
I was making sure the Litres per min I set at the boiler (by temperature ) was correct. The kitchen tap couldn't be use for this because the flow rate was reduced to it already by design. So, I just made sure I had 11 LPM at the sink tap in the bathroom. Ps I couldn't do the check at the bath tap because it was a blended outlet.
i had the same issue, i reduced the flow to the boiler the water to the taps getting hot, but customer complained that the pressure is low, how do you fix the pressure, appreciate the reply 🫡
I've just moved into a 2 bed house and my water is doing my head in. I can't run a bath properly (gotta run it sloooooowly) to get it hot.... Downstairs is the same.... Its a newish combi... My other house wasn't like this.. What is the problem here??? A bath is taking me an hour to get full!!
Hi I have a customer who just called saying her hot water temperature is going into the 90s. All I've done is move rad pipes in bathroom to new position then filled up to 1 bar pressure. She said she can hear gulping noise from boiler. Have I trapped air in the system which is causing the hot water temperature to rise? If so do I need to drain heating system down the refill and bleed to remove the air?
I’m pretty sure it’s a blocked plate heat exchanger. Didn’t see a inline electrolytic De-scaler. You’ll be back in a few months to change it or flush it out.
Yes, but the boiler is only designed and physically can only do a certain amount of hot water. If they wanted more they should have got a bigger boiler.
I changed a broken flow switch on a grant vortex boiler and now the water is not as hot as usual and also the farthest hot tap away from the boiler is intermittent on calling for heat?
I would guess something is blending. Cold is getting into the hot somewhere. Run the tap that doesn't register demand and go and listen to all the other taps in the house. You will hear the issue. :-)
HeatingGeek thanks il try that. Do you think it could be a problem with the plate? I did think it could be the hot water pump but I can hear that working without any bad noises.
HeatingGeek possibly? I’m not a boiler engineer , just trying to fix mine. I might try and reduce the flow on the valve behind the flow switch and see if it improves. Thanks for your input.
I got to 3 mins and this reminded me of a customer last week ! Change the boiler they insisted ! In the first clip I noticed there is a douche for the toilet...if this is in the Mixed position with pressure going to the end of the hose with the trigger mechanism fitted as it is...and if like my customer had cool water thru every tap that was hot in the house ! Any unbalanced even slightly will cause what I just described...basically the water flows thru the mixer and creates what ever the temp is set on that mixer ...which was warm enough to wash your Butt temp ! Still it's a great way to charge 10% of what a new boiler costs to fit ! I'm gonna watch the rest now bcos I'm curious about this one.
I have a Ariston boiler and the water doesn’t stay hot for longer than 5 seconds and I have to press reset 3-4 times before the heating stays on on its own I’ve fixed the pressure but nothing has changed Can you suggest anything for me please? I’m desperate now 😖
If I want to run hot water with the valve set to max temperature in the bath/shower faucet The hot water runs cool (35*C) when faucet/tap is turned to MAXIMUM output (and max temp) in the BATH. If I want to run the hot water at the desired temperature of lets say 60*C, I must reduce the faucet valve to mid-range output, consequently weakening the stream. I do not have this issue with the Kitchen and bathroom sinks. The can run very hot water with tap valves at max output… Could it be that the pipes which supply the hot water to the bath are larger than those which supply hot water to the sinks?? Perhaps the boiler cannot keep up with heating the water when its running at a high output? Not sure this is the reason though. The apartment is relatively new, and so is the Vaillant boiler.. Also the boiler supplies hot water to the radiators with no issues… The hot water supply temperature setting on the boiler is indeed set at 65*C…. Also, this isn’t a faucet cartridge issue, because the hot water in the bath-faucet still behaves like this, even if I shut down the main cold-water supply, i.e. so there is not cold water interference… Can’t get my head around this, any suggestions how I can get the hot water to run at a decent outout?! THANKS
HeatingGeek I'm based in Waltham Abbey but I go anywhere. I work on my own mainly doing installs. So you can imagine how dull my day is. If you need the company let me know. I won't do your head in lol.
I'm in Cheshunt. If you get any issues on repairs give me a shout (through here) and I will try and help. I do some bits and bobs for engineers ,like Worcester PRVs and Vaillant shunt pump for fixed prices so they can earn on top.
Hi, I'd be really grateful if I could get some of your opinions on an intermittent fault that occurring on a customers boiler. (Greenstar 30si mk 3). I have spoken to Worcester about this, but seems like everyone's scratching their heads with it a bit, and I'm not really a fan of just guessing and hoping for the best. Thanks in advance! Visit 1: Customer reports no hot water, but the heating is fine. I visibley can see diverter valve moving to all 3 positions, When power is switched off and then on at fused spur. When tap is opened nothing happens, it's completely static, and no error codes. I confirmed with Worcester that the flow turbine was working. And also dhw thermistor was giving a reading within range. It was recommended the the pcb had failed and should be replaced. Also I noted that the flow rate was crap from tap, about 5 litres per min. Visit 2: Returned and fitted new circuit board, new board was an updated type without the big transformer on the back. Power back on, all was working perfectly. Heating and hot water both operational. I thought job done. Visit 3: 2 weeks later have to reattend, due to intermittent hot water. Apparently hot water worked fine for a couple of days and then after that not. Customer states sometimes it will run for a few mins then go cold, other times boiler just does nothing (same as initial issue). He also stated sometimes it was very hot. When I test on site, hot water was working as it was supposed to, operating on demand and at the correct temperature. Visit 4: I reattend and Initial test shows boiler still static when tap opened. Customer also stated that they day before he'd switched it off at the spur due to the boiler vibrating lots when trying to run the hot water. I fit a new flow turbine, flow adaptor, and flow regulator. Also cleaned the inlet filter. Was flow was not really improved to be honest, so pressume there must either be a restriction in the plate to plate, or maybe in the manifold. Test hot water and still boiler does nothing. when I'd re instate power to the boiler the diverter valve would go from mid position to lower and then back to mid. Every 10/15 times of power being resumed the diverter valve would move to the high position and the HW pre heat would start. However once the preheat was over, and a tap opened the boiler would again be static. I removed the diverter valve and it looked to all be in good clean condition. Tried operations with the motor out of site to. See if that made a difference. I again spoke to Worcester, confirmed again the the flow sensor was picking up the demand. Also carried out resistance tests on the diverter valve motor, checked the thermistors which were correct. Worcester said they think it's again a faulty pcb and that I should fit a new one. So basically I'm going to go back again with a new pcb, but there's definitely a part of me that thinks it could be something else, like maybe the diverter valve motor? It might be worth noting that on this visit I found that the shower thermostatic mixer has a slight issue with the check valves, as when I isolated the cold I let at the boiler and opened taps to drain, I could hear water passing through the mixer and constantly flowing (not much) through the tap. I wouldn't have thought this would be contributing to the boiler issue though? Struggling a bit with this one, so any suggestions / thoughts would be greatLy appreciated, thanks.
waldesi1 I would check the harness very carefully. Did you do your tests on the pcb or at the DHW flow sensor? Sounds like it’s still not picking up flow. Plug in another (the old one) sensor and blow through it and see what happens. PCB or harness is probably the issue.
SOLVED! It was the Plate to Plate heat exchanger, basically completely lime scaled up. Once I’d managed to isolate the shower mixer, I found the flow rate from the hot tap was at 3 LPM. When testing the flow turbine (at the PCB end) using my Fluke I was getting 2.1-2.7V DC (reading fluctuating between .1 and .7) The worcester chap(s) told me that, this should be enough to get the boiler running, I kept questioning the fact that, that the reading was fluctuating as when id tested other worcesters I was used to getting a stable 2.5(ish) V DC. they still said it should be fine... Anyway, after inspecting/resistance testing the harness, took out the plate heat exchanger to have a look, and couldn’t believe how blocked up it was. Tested the flow turbine after replacing it and found I was now getting steady readings! and boiler roaring away. Good tip about blowing through the turbine, wish I’d known that one!! That would have saved me a lot of time... Annoyingly id arranged on the 2nd visit to replace the plate to plate, but was trying to solve the boiler not firing issue first, not realising that they were related. It didn’t help that there was no valves to isolate the shower, and no access to any stopcock in or outside, and tenants that didn’t speak any English haha. Plus side is I learnt a lot from this job, Its always the tricky ones where one learns a lot. Keep the vids coming, they’ve really helped me to up my game with boiler faults. Its great that you include the process of how you approach finding the fault.
Yeah Manufactures are good at common faults but fall down when its a bit weird. Blowing through the flow turbine tests all the electronics and helps you decide weather its mechanical or electrical. Im glad you got it fixed and very glad you updated us here. Thats a Heavy plate heat exchanger going by how big they are and that it was full of scale. I bet they had preheat on (eco off) and also have a driping tap. Its the tap that causes constant heating of the plate and scale build up. Once again, nice one. :-)
@@simonstones1918 boiler is fine for one bath. He sorted the issue boiler was getting a higher flow rate than it could handle. Lots of old taps are not restricted like newer ones and just let the whole flow rate through.
Nice to see you here. :-) A lot of people questioned this video. Hopefully it makes sense to you. :-) Hopfully you can see the quality is getting better.
Im not there to fit a boiler. :-) I was called because the hw wasn't working. New property for the family and they were not used to the way a combi boiler works.
interesting vid, been to an interesting one today being the 4th one with this fault, so a Worcester Greenstar junior installed 6 years ago producing just tepid hot water at all taps. Carried out all the usual checks ie, flow rate. gas rate, diverter valve not passing and all fine. Hot water leaving boiler red hot but all taps just tepid? The first one of these i encountered was same boiler as above and i installed only three moths earlier. I was baffled and got Worcester out under warranty. The engineer rang me next day from job to tell me the fault was the t/static bar shower running off boiler which was installed by whoever some time ago. The problem being that the cold feed to the shower was filtering through the shower by passing non return valve and diluting hot water circuit? an absolute new one to me but could be proven by isolating the shower at check valves and hot water temp at all taps immediately raced up to temperature. Had never heard of this before but was assured by Worcester engineer his first one like this took him hours to suss out. So today my fourth one like this but two bar showers and no isolation valves to prove point, however, by vigorously turning t/static side of shower valves back and forwards several times then leaving temp at min taps are fine. Not a permanent solution but a point proven. I'm sure there will be many out there never seen this before but interesting all the same specially on cheapy showers
Nice vid mate once again.. Yep the Worcester greenstars flow sensor a fairly common problem..limescale build up mainly.. the tip to check the diverter valve class....
HeatingGeek it's not that HG it's my lack of knowing every part of the process! It's so complicated until you know the ins and outs of how these boilers work. I've done my Gas Safe training but as we know that doesn't cover experience!
exact problem my mother in law is having atm with her worcester combi. hot water to bath very poor. had council out twice but no joy. will have to direct them to this video
Check to see if the impeller is blocked. Symptoms like water will not heat beyond tepid regardless of the boiler setting. Many think it's the heat exchanger, flow rate or other 'stuff' etc etc etc but if the impeller is blocked then this causes the hot water from the main heat sink to the exchange plates to slow to a useless rate hence the exchange rate is all but useless too. Slán go fóill
Good video but Would have checked the flow rate at the sink tap to confirm the correct flow before checking the temperature rise, that would confirm the plate wasn’t scaled or that a mixer wasn’t cross leaking cold into the hot pipes. Maybe this was done but not in the video ? Had quite a few mixer taps washing machine valves etc that leaked cold into the hot supply when running the hot reducing the temperature at the tap. If the flow is correct rate and the increase in temperature is correct at the outlet of the plate but not at the taps it’s not the boiler.
Leaking cold into the hot is common but I could feel the temperature at the boiler wasn't what it should be. If cold is bleeding into the hot then the pipe (hot) directly below the boiler would still be as hot as it should be but the blended water out of the tap would be warm (not hot). If you get what I mean.
Ok now I'll tell you how to do it properly... Do not isolate the flow or return valves there prone to leaking. If the flow gets warm your looking at a diverter so don't isolate it fix that if its not isolated by itself.!!!!! It would be the fault found..... Now use a wier gauge you were flowing the water I can tell by eye about 4-5lm you don't turn the boiler down until you get the temp.... Measure the cold....measure the hot @ 11lm then does the 35c plus cold inlet (measured by thermometer not through copper via Kane) add the cold to the 35c expected are you getting what your thermometer says at the outlet...(take off relevant to distance of pipe) Your differential is your loss...you should get 35 plus inlet temp minus 2-3c loss on pipes... Then.......if you really want to cut a corner..risk them isolators & turn off the flow or return....rain via the built in drain point using manometer tube.. Then remove the AAV.....put some fx40 system cleaner(strong de scaler) into the AAv hole... Put the AAv back & refil the boiler.... You can remove wires to drive motors or whatever to make the boiler stay in water mode.. Just run it & the chemicals will clean the whole boiler very fast...heat plate clean without removing...it makes the debris smaller & it passes through so you can the drain & remove chemicals & dirt in one go.....20 mins..fixed....not r Just reducing there flow to compensate for bad performance.....use the AAv as a dosing point isolate the flow & circulate the domestic circuit repeatedly...then you'll get 11lm 35c rise...if not change the plate....gas rate is almost the last thing that causes stuff it's almost ever the cause..
Ok... The issue was the flow rate was too high, above 11Lpm. All the rest was done to show basic principles. The gas rate is the cause of the issue at the jobs I go to. Remember I go to the job after it has had 5 or more visits. Low gas rate can be caused by: Low negative fan pressure, restricted flues and blocked injectors. These are causes I have seen this year alone, all effecting hot water on combis.
Agree with most of the above Why use all that complicated equipment when a weir cup and a gas rate would have led you to the same outcome And feeling the pipes In and out Dosing the boiler does work through the AAV but the dreaded valves may leak lol I try not to rely on any electrical testing equipment if at all possible Never run a basin tap unattended also they tend to make the ceiling wet Good video though
Sorry but aload of bull. It's plate heat exchanger. Regardless of how old "young" it is. If you restrict the flow of cold in the in will increase heat out. Learn some fucking basics
Back in the gas industry after a 15 year absence. These vids have helped me a lot. Thanks bud
No problem. Just seen this comment :-)
Some great tips here. At 10:50 when you said you were going to set the flow rate, what exactly were you adjusting? (I thought by adjusting the cold inlet to achieve the correct differential, we had the correct flow rate). Thanks
I was making sure the Litres per min I set at the boiler (by temperature ) was correct. The kitchen tap couldn't be use for this because the flow rate was reduced to it already by design. So, I just made sure I had 11 LPM at the sink tap in the bathroom.
Ps I couldn't do the check at the bath tap because it was a blended outlet.
i had the same issue, i reduced the flow to the boiler the water to the taps getting hot, but customer complained that the pressure is low, how do you fix the pressure, appreciate the reply 🫡
What litres per min is boiler designed to do? What did you set it to?
@
It was an eboiler by storm Min Heating Pressure 0.5 Bar. Max DHW Pressure 6 Bar. DHW flow rate 7 litres per min.
@ what would you think about the problem?
Great video, shows what flow rates & dhw temperature rises in relation to combi boilers means in real terms . Thanks for posting .
Thanks for the feedback. :-)
I've just moved into a 2 bed house and my water is doing my head in.
I can't run a bath properly (gotta run it sloooooowly) to get it hot.... Downstairs is the same.... Its a newish combi... My other house wasn't like this.. What is the problem here??? A bath is taking me an hour to get full!!
Hi I have a customer who just called saying her hot water temperature is going into the 90s. All I've done is move rad pipes in bathroom to new position then filled up to 1 bar pressure. She said she can hear gulping noise from boiler. Have I trapped air in the system which is causing the hot water temperature to rise? If so do I need to drain heating system down the refill and bleed to remove the air?
I’m pretty sure it’s a blocked plate heat exchanger. Didn’t see a inline electrolytic De-scaler. You’ll be back in a few months to change it or flush it out.
It was filmed in January so it been 5 months. Im pretty sure its sorted.
Eward Richards they usually block on the primary side
Quality video, mate. Cheers. Would slowing the flow rate down it the cold inlet not reduce pressure at the hot tap through?
Yes, but the boiler is only designed and physically can only do a certain amount of hot water. If they wanted more they should have got a bigger boiler.
I changed a broken flow switch on a grant vortex boiler and now the water is not as hot as usual and also the farthest hot tap away from the boiler is intermittent on calling for heat?
I would guess something is blending. Cold is getting into the hot somewhere. Run the tap that doesn't register demand and go and listen to all the other taps in the house. You will hear the issue. :-)
HeatingGeek thanks il try that. Do you think it could be a problem with the plate? I did think it could be the hot water pump but I can hear that working without any bad noises.
@@deribrown If it was the hot water pump would it not affect all the outlets?
HeatingGeek possibly? I’m not a boiler engineer , just trying to fix mine. I might try and reduce the flow on the valve behind the flow switch and see if it improves. Thanks for your input.
Thank you. Helped me identify my problem: water flow.
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
I got to 3 mins and this reminded me of a customer last week ! Change the boiler they insisted ! In the first clip I noticed there is a douche for the toilet...if this is in the Mixed position with pressure going to the end of the hose with the trigger mechanism fitted as it is...and if like my customer had cool water thru every tap that was hot in the house ! Any unbalanced even slightly will cause what I just described...basically the water flows thru the mixer and creates what ever the temp is set on that mixer ...which was warm enough to wash your Butt temp ! Still it's a great way to charge 10% of what a new boiler costs to fit ! I'm gonna watch the rest now bcos I'm curious about this one.
The ass washers always cause problems!!
This video is about basics of hot water from a combi. Many people miss the basic principles of this.
I have a Ariston boiler and the water doesn’t stay hot for longer than 5 seconds and I have to press reset 3-4 times before the heating stays on on its own
I’ve fixed the pressure but nothing has changed
Can you suggest anything for me please? I’m desperate now 😖
Call a GasSafe registered company to come and have a look.
That was well worth viewing. It’s interesting how it makes a huge difference to the performance. Thanks Ollie❤
no problem. :-) Its an uncommon problem but one thats hard to find unless you check for it. :-)
well as a rank amateur my money would have been on a blocked plate to plate heat exchanger :-P
Easy mistake to make. Check a few with a flow cup and you will be able to guess approximate LPM and know when something isn't right.
Excellent diagnosis, good job bud
Thanks:-)
Hi whats the device you are using mate
What one?
If I want to run hot water with the valve set to max temperature in the bath/shower faucet
The hot water runs cool (35*C) when faucet/tap is turned to MAXIMUM output (and max temp) in the BATH. If I want to run the hot water at the desired temperature of lets say 60*C, I must reduce the faucet valve to mid-range output, consequently weakening the stream.
I do not have this issue with the Kitchen and bathroom sinks. The can run very hot water with tap valves at max output…
Could it be that the pipes which supply the hot water to the bath are larger than those which supply hot water to the sinks?? Perhaps the boiler cannot keep up with heating the water when its running at a high output? Not sure this is the reason though. The apartment is relatively new, and so is the Vaillant boiler.. Also the boiler supplies hot water to the radiators with no issues…
The hot water supply temperature setting on the boiler is indeed set at 65*C….
Also, this isn’t a faucet cartridge issue, because the hot water in the bath-faucet still behaves like this, even if I shut down the main cold-water supply, i.e. so there is not cold water interference…
Can’t get my head around this, any suggestions how I can get the hot water to run at a decent outout?!
THANKS
Check the flow rate. What boiler do you have?
Great video - best way to sell a heat only boiler and unvented cylinder to the customer!
blocked inline filter in the hot feed to shower mixer possibly.
Watch it. You will find out.
there's no access to inlet filter on a concealed shower
So it was the mains water flow restrictor. Great video. Keep them coming. Are you based in London?
Hertfordshire but I work in London. Yep flow restrictor.
HeatingGeek can I come work with you for a day. No charge!. 😂
My working day is usually very dull. I generally only get to fix things that others can't. Where do you work?
HeatingGeek I'm based in Waltham Abbey but I go anywhere. I work on my own mainly doing installs. So you can imagine how dull my day is. If you need the company let me know. I won't do your head in lol.
I'm in Cheshunt. If you get any issues on repairs give me a shout (through here) and I will try and help. I do some bits and bobs for engineers ,like Worcester PRVs and Vaillant shunt pump for fixed prices so they can earn on top.
Hi, I'd be really grateful if I could get some of your opinions on an intermittent fault that occurring on a customers boiler. (Greenstar 30si mk 3). I have spoken to Worcester about this, but seems like everyone's scratching their heads with it a bit, and I'm not really a fan of just guessing and hoping for the best.
Thanks in advance!
Visit 1:
Customer reports no hot water, but the heating is fine. I visibley can see diverter valve moving to all 3 positions, When power is switched off and then on at fused spur. When tap is opened nothing happens, it's completely static, and no error codes. I confirmed with Worcester that the flow turbine was working. And also dhw thermistor was giving a reading within range. It was recommended the the pcb had failed and should be replaced. Also I noted that the flow rate was crap from tap, about 5 litres per min.
Visit 2:
Returned and fitted new circuit board, new board was an updated type without the big transformer on the back. Power back on, all was working perfectly. Heating and hot water both operational. I thought job done.
Visit 3:
2 weeks later have to reattend, due to intermittent hot water. Apparently hot water worked fine for a couple of days and then after that not. Customer states sometimes it will run for a few mins then go cold, other times boiler just does nothing (same as initial issue). He also stated sometimes it was very hot. When I test on site, hot water was working as it was supposed to, operating on demand and at the correct temperature.
Visit 4:
I reattend and Initial test shows boiler still static when tap opened. Customer also stated that they day before he'd switched it off at the spur due to the boiler vibrating lots when trying to run the hot water. I fit a new flow turbine, flow adaptor, and flow regulator. Also cleaned the inlet filter. Was flow was not really improved to be honest, so pressume there must either be a restriction in the plate to plate, or maybe in the manifold. Test hot water and still boiler does nothing. when I'd re instate power to the boiler the diverter valve would go from mid position to lower and then back to mid. Every 10/15 times of power being resumed the diverter valve would move to the high position and the HW pre heat would start. However once the preheat was over, and a tap opened the boiler would again be static. I removed the diverter valve and it looked to all be in good clean condition. Tried operations with the motor out of site to. See if that made a difference. I again spoke to Worcester, confirmed again the the flow sensor was picking up the demand. Also carried out resistance tests on the diverter valve motor, checked the thermistors which were correct. Worcester said they think it's again a faulty pcb and that I should fit a new one.
So basically I'm going to go back again with a new pcb, but there's definitely a part of me that thinks it could be something else, like maybe the diverter valve motor?
It might be worth noting that on this visit I found that the shower thermostatic mixer has a slight issue with the check valves, as when I isolated the cold I let at the boiler and opened taps to drain, I could hear water passing through the mixer and constantly flowing (not much) through the tap. I wouldn't have thought this would be contributing to the boiler issue though?
Struggling a bit with this one, so any suggestions / thoughts would be greatLy appreciated, thanks.
waldesi1 I would check the harness very carefully. Did you do your tests on the pcb or at the DHW flow sensor?
Sounds like it’s still not picking up flow.
Plug in another (the old one) sensor and blow through it and see what happens.
PCB or harness is probably the issue.
This is HeatingGeek on another account btw. ;-)
I have been doing my ACS this week so I'm a bit preoccupied. Did you get to the bottom of this??
Be great to have an update.
SOLVED! It was the Plate to Plate heat exchanger, basically completely lime scaled up. Once I’d managed to isolate the shower mixer, I found the flow rate from the hot tap was at 3 LPM. When testing the flow turbine (at the PCB end) using my Fluke I was getting 2.1-2.7V DC (reading fluctuating between .1 and .7) The worcester chap(s) told me that, this should be enough to get the boiler running, I kept questioning the fact that, that the reading was fluctuating as when id tested other worcesters I was used to getting a stable 2.5(ish) V DC. they still said it should be fine...
Anyway, after inspecting/resistance testing the harness, took out the plate heat exchanger to have a look, and couldn’t believe how blocked up it was.
Tested the flow turbine after replacing it and found I was now getting steady readings! and boiler roaring away. Good tip about blowing through the turbine, wish I’d known that one!! That would have saved me a lot of time...
Annoyingly id arranged on the 2nd visit to replace the plate to plate, but was trying to solve the boiler not firing issue first, not realising that they were related. It didn’t help that there was no valves to isolate the shower, and no access to any stopcock in or outside, and tenants that didn’t speak any English haha.
Plus side is I learnt a lot from this job, Its always the tricky ones where one learns a lot.
Keep the vids coming, they’ve really helped me to up my game with boiler faults. Its great that you include the process of how you approach finding the fault.
Yeah Manufactures are good at common faults but fall down when its a bit weird. Blowing through the flow turbine tests all the electronics and helps you decide weather its mechanical or electrical. Im glad you got it fixed and very glad you updated us here.
Thats a Heavy plate heat exchanger going by how big they are and that it was full of scale. I bet they had preheat on (eco off) and also have a driping tap. Its the tap that causes constant heating of the plate and scale build up.
Once again, nice one. :-)
Was the hot water only an issue upstairs? Was that a giveaway for you to start looking in the direction you did or would that not matter very much?
The flow rate from the bath tap was much higher than the rest of the house. So the problem was more noticeable from that outlet.
Why did the heat drop in the first place
Because the water was running through the boiler too fast.
HeatingGeek boiler undersized?
@@simonstones1918 boiler is fine for one bath. He sorted the issue boiler was getting a higher flow rate than it could handle. Lots of old taps are not restricted like newer ones and just let the whole flow rate through.
Great quality vid - many thanks. Really appreciated.
Thanks. :-)
set it by the sink.it takes the thermostat out the equation
Yep. :-)
Streets ahead plumbing here of instagram. Another great video
Nice to see you here. :-) A lot of people questioned this video. Hopefully it makes sense to you. :-) Hopfully you can see the quality is getting better.
I wish could have your knowledge, another excellent vid, thank you
Glad you like it. :-)
Great video mate always appreciated 👏🏻
Thanks. :-)
Great tip shutting flow to check divertor, keep up the great work.
Yeah these little tips are great. Something to keep in mind.
The combi is undersized for sure. It cannot fill a bath fast enough. A larger combi is not that much more expensive.
Im not there to fit a boiler. :-) I was called because the hw wasn't working. New property for the family and they were not used to the way a combi boiler works.
interesting vid, been to an interesting one today being the 4th one with this fault, so a Worcester Greenstar junior installed 6 years ago producing just tepid hot water at all taps. Carried out all the usual checks ie, flow rate. gas rate, diverter valve not passing and all fine. Hot water leaving boiler red hot but all taps just tepid? The first one of these i encountered was same boiler as above and i installed only three moths earlier. I was baffled and got Worcester out under warranty. The engineer rang me next day from job to tell me the fault was the t/static bar shower running off boiler which was installed by whoever some time ago. The problem being that the cold feed to the shower was filtering through the shower by passing non return valve and diluting hot water circuit? an absolute new one to me but could be proven by isolating the shower at check valves and hot water temp at all taps immediately raced up to temperature. Had never heard of this before but was assured by Worcester engineer his first one like this took him hours to suss out. So today my fourth one like this but two bar showers and no isolation valves to prove point, however, by vigorously turning t/static side of shower valves back and forwards several times then leaving temp at min taps are fine. Not a permanent solution but a point proven. I'm sure there will be many out there never seen this before but interesting all the same specially on cheapy showers
Yep. Its more common than you would think. :-)
Respect to the guy that figured out the problem.
Nice vid mate once again..
Yep the Worcester greenstars flow sensor a fairly common problem..limescale build up mainly.. the tip to check the diverter valve class....
I just had an Ariston MicroGenius with the same issue today. Crazy how these things get missed for years sometimes.
Brilliant video!
Thank you! Cheers!
God, I wish I knew half of what you clearly do! I understand some of what you're describing but some of it draws a blank 😂
Im not the best at explaining stuff but hopefully it will make sense enough that one day it will click!!!
HeatingGeek it's not that HG it's my lack of knowing every part of the process! It's so complicated until you know the ins and outs of how these boilers work. I've done my Gas Safe training but as we know that doesn't cover experience!
Great content keep it comming
Struggling at the moment!!!
Quality video - Learned a lot - Thank you for posting it up.👍
Thanks. :-)
This is literally what my boiler is doing council won’t come out because I’m still getting a bit of hot water just none in the bath.
Slow the tap down and it will warm up. Only emergency work at the moment for everyone because of coronavirus.
Okay thankyou I will try it. And yeah I gathered as much it being due to covid19. Just hope it works for my little daughter 🤞🏽
Mans a genius
No. Just like to fix stuff. :-)
Good job mate
Thanks:-)
exact problem my mother in law is having atm with her worcester combi. hot water to bath very poor. had council out twice but no joy. will have to direct them to this video
On the worcester, the mains adaptor behind the flow switch has probably fallen apart and the 2 little flow reducers have fallen out. :-)
Check to see if the impeller is blocked. Symptoms like water will not heat beyond tepid regardless of the boiler setting. Many think it's the heat exchanger, flow rate or other 'stuff' etc etc etc but if the impeller is blocked then this causes the hot water from the main heat sink to the exchange plates to slow to a useless rate hence the exchange rate is all but useless too.
Slán go fóill
Good video but Would have checked the flow rate at the sink tap to confirm the correct flow before checking the temperature rise, that would confirm the plate wasn’t scaled or that a mixer wasn’t cross leaking cold into the hot pipes. Maybe this was done but not in the video ? Had quite a few mixer taps washing machine valves etc that leaked cold into the hot supply when running the hot reducing the temperature at the tap. If the flow is correct rate and the increase in temperature is correct at the outlet of the plate but not at the taps it’s not the boiler.
Leaking cold into the hot is common but I could feel the temperature at the boiler wasn't what it should be. If cold is bleeding into the hot then the pipe (hot) directly below the boiler would still be as hot as it should be but the blended water out of the tap would be warm (not hot). If you get what I mean.
very helpful thanks
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
Wicked video keepem up 🤙🏽
Thanks!!
Ok now I'll tell you how to do it properly...
Do not isolate the flow or return valves there prone to leaking.
If the flow gets warm your looking at a diverter so don't isolate it fix that if its not isolated by itself.!!!!! It would be the fault found.....
Now use a wier gauge you were flowing the water I can tell by eye about 4-5lm you don't turn the boiler down until you get the temp....
Measure the cold....measure the hot @ 11lm then does the 35c plus cold inlet (measured by thermometer not through copper via Kane) add the cold to the 35c expected are you getting what your thermometer says at the outlet...(take off relevant to distance of pipe)
Your differential is your loss...you should get 35 plus inlet temp minus 2-3c loss on pipes...
Then.......if you really want to cut a corner..risk them isolators & turn off the flow or return....rain via the built in drain point using manometer tube..
Then remove the AAV.....put some fx40 system cleaner(strong de scaler) into the AAv hole...
Put the AAv back & refil the boiler....
You can remove wires to drive motors or whatever to make the boiler stay in water mode..
Just run it & the chemicals will clean the whole boiler very fast...heat plate clean without removing...it makes the debris smaller & it passes through so you can the drain & remove chemicals & dirt in one go.....20 mins..fixed....not r
Just reducing there flow to compensate for bad performance.....use the AAv as a dosing point isolate the flow & circulate the domestic circuit repeatedly...then you'll get 11lm 35c rise...if not change the plate....gas rate is almost the last thing that causes stuff it's almost ever the cause..
Ok... The issue was the flow rate was too high, above 11Lpm. All the rest was done to show basic principles. The gas rate is the cause of the issue at the jobs I go to. Remember I go to the job after it has had 5 or more visits.
Low gas rate can be caused by: Low negative fan pressure, restricted flues and blocked injectors. These are causes I have seen this year alone, all effecting hot water on combis.
Agree with most of the above
Why use all that complicated equipment when a weir cup and a gas rate would have led you to the same outcome
And feeling the pipes
In and out
Dosing the boiler does work through the AAV but the dreaded valves may leak lol
I try not to rely on any electrical testing equipment if at all possible
Never run a basin tap unattended also they tend to make the ceiling wet
Good video though
@@HeatingGeek or the boiler moderation as the heat has nowhere to go more than likely , your right but keep it simple first
Nice 👍
Thank you! :-)
Sorry but aload of bull. It's plate heat exchanger. Regardless of how old "young" it is. If you restrict the flow of cold in the in will increase heat out. Learn some fucking basics
Ya you did one good thing with closing flow but still wrong
Watch the video a bit better and you will get it.
Thanks for watching :-)