Hey thanks, you saved me from having to buy a new drill. I was on the verge of throwing mine out, as I've never been able to remove a chuck before. The allan key trick did it. Also as a bonus, once the chuck came out, I was able to fix the three grippers that had partially jammed for some reason. Luckly, they jammed wide enough to take the allan key. Back to normal now, no money spent. Many thanks mister. Much appreciated.
Fantastic! My dad and I were scratching our heads for a minute until he said “just UA-cam it”. And here I am. Took us 2 minutes after that. Thanks for the video!
Your very detail video saved my Harbor Freight Hercules 1/2" 20V Model HC92K1 drill which sold for $120. It was advertised as "comparable" to the Dewalt drill and a compatable chuck sells for $16 on Amazon that one reviewer indicated it fit Hercules. My drill's chuck would open to full width but would not tighten enough to hold any drill less that 1/4". The screw in the chuck was a Toric 15 and it turns out that it was very loose. I tighten the screw (left threads) and now it works just fine and no new chuck needed.
Thank you! I just did this after watching your video and swapped out my Chuck with a older drill that had burned out and it worked great now. Thank you for the content!
Second time changing a chuck on a makita drill . First time was for a friend , the chuck was completely broken. Teeth were broken so couldn’t use an Allen key . Cut outside chuck casing with a grinder and locked a 24” pipe wrench on chuck to lock it and used a steel site box for mechanical leverage to spin the chuck off . Tried your method today and had no luck . But decided to just use the vice grips as leverage with the Allen key and it came off . Good video ,thanks !
Thanks for sharing. One tip is that you can use an impact driver to tighten or loosen the screw inside the drill chuck. This way you won't risk anything grabbing, smacking you in the face, etc. Drills are probably in the top 3 causes of testicle-related injuries.
Yesterday I was trying to twist off the screw with a screwdriver till my skin almost came off. Then I mounted a flat head bit to my mid torque impact wrench and it loosened with just a flinch of the trigger.
Always thinking I can do things with no assistance! This video shows lots of ways to assist a stubborn chuck! Don't tell my kids I didn't know how! Now I do!!!
Thanks a lot man, you're brilliant. Very helpful video, it's how smart you work with things, not how much force you use or waste efforts and time. No damage or scratches or anything to the drill. Clean Work 👍.
Thank you for this video as I could not for the life of me find a drill that had a chuck to accept anything above 10mm but plenty of chuck replacements that could. I thought it would be possible to switch it out but man the drill chuck did not want to let go of the drill..makes me think that they really don't want you do switch them out yourself since it moved my arm at a few points. But again your video made me keep on going and I've gotten it off just need to get the replacement chuck on now.
Nice, thanks for the helpful video. Saved me some headaches . Just a little help there.... When you show something to the camera try holding it very still so our eyes can adjust, second hold it in place twice as long as you think nesessary. It gives US time to look, focus, and study without getting agitated about missing the picture. David west fire videos has this technique mastered. 👍 Again thanks for you taking the time to make educational videos ! Much appriciated!
Thanks man! Just took a decent Chuck off a cheap drill where the battery was dying. Hoping that the thread will match an old corded drill I have with a key. Keyless is just a whole lot nicer for low torque jobs like the softwoods I tend to use. Thanks again
Brilliant Just used this trick to remove stubborn chuck on ridgid drill that was not coming off with the normal allen key/hammer trick everyone else recommends. Just be careful about the allen key / vise grip combo whipping around. Just touch the trigger at first to give you a gauge of how strong the kickback is going to be then brace yourself accordingly!
Thanks for the video. I ended up using a breaker bar and the largest 1/2" drive hex bit that I could fit into the chuck, which ended up being a 7/16" hex for my 1/2" drive drill. I pinned the breaker bar and the drill against the ground and bumped the trigger to break the chuck loose.
Most drills are the same style, I only came across one that was different in probably 30 years. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 each have there own threads thought.
To loosen the screw, you said set the drill to forward position, that means the chuck will turn anticlockwise. Should it not be setting the drill to reverse position to loosen the screw? Please advice.
My Craftsman model CMD710 needed a new chuck. went online for warranty replacement, and was sent a brand new drill, and charger. I figured "score" for me and ordered a new chuck figuring to gift out the new one. Used the craftsman site, and the chuck is available. Now things got interesting. Found out my drill has nothing to unscrew. Nothing there but what looks like the end of a shaft. The thread on the new chuck (ordered from Craftsman site) is regular direction. So how am I supposed to get off the old chuck? Do the same thing as normal with something in the chuck and whack it?
Thank-you! 🙂This is what I need, to loosen my chuck-and unfortunately maybe even replace it. I do agree, that does suck! For Milwakee to replace the chuck size.
Well actually chucks can loose their locking ability, slip, and get a wobble but still hold onto an allen long enough to do this. Obviously if yours is stuck open then you have a bigger problem. Hopefully yours has a metal sleave because the next thing I would suggest is to put a pipe wrench on it.
Smart all the way..thanks..I'm going to try replacing a 19.2V Craftsman chuck with one from a Ridgid parts drill..hope the thread matches..the Sears is a strong drill but never really gripped bits very well..
Thank you! I'm making a 1/2 impact to drill chuck adapter using the chuck you recommended. I just didn't want to mess with the 1/4 hex drive version, my setup will be much stronger & versatile.
@@AroundTheHome1 I had to use a T20 torx on my Dewalt and vise grips (sucker was on there!) but I just removed it and I'll put the new chuck on the drill & make the adapter from the old chuck.
Oh yeah, this is the way to do it, the chuck on my drill came right off. After trying the, hit the Allen key with a hammer trick multiple times, but not too hard, the chuck still refused to come off. Did it like this and she spun off with ease. Thank you sir for this advice... it does indeed work. Only thing I did different was I use a number 3 Phillips to remove the screw, it holds better than a flat... just sayin.
Great video could not have done it without you one tip for the next person once removing the set screw and inserting Allen wrench place the drill one the side secure against hard surface set to low gear and slowly press the trigger safer then pressing against abdomen! I was prying and beating I almost destroyed my hammer drill. Thnx buddy keep up the good video!!😬
Ok, I was hoping that it didn't so that you could put a pipe wrench on it. Is there any part of the outer chuck that you can grab onto? Might have to break the ring off so that you can get a pipe wrench to hold on.
I just bought a used 1/2" Craftsman C3 (19.2 volt) on ebay and just got it. Seems to work fine with the clutch (no slipping, etc), however when you release the trigger it makes a loud noise (kind of a grind noise) when it stops. Non of my other 3 Craftsman drills make this noise when they stop. Any info would be great as I just received this drill this weekend and need to act on it. Thanks... Phil
Phil, thanks for the question. Most all cordless drills have brakes on them. Sounds like that is what you are hearing. I don't have any videos on repairs for that, but I would just do a search on that.
@@AroundTheHome1 Thanks for reply. Is this something I should be concerned about making the drill inoperable? I just bought it from ebay and would send it back if it's a big concern. I really don't want to send it back, but if it will make the whole drill useless down the road, I would. If the brake is only to stop the drill from spinning when the trigger is released I could probably live with that if the brake fails. Thanks again. Appreciated. Phil
You know, I don't really know enough about failed brakes to tell you. I don't know if it could lock up all the time or is just going to not work when it should. I don't have a good answer for that one.
@@AroundTheHome1 I do appreciate all your input. I will decide whether to take a chance on the drill or send it back. The problem, the ebay seller will likely not pay for return shipping so it I will lose that way. Lesson, don;t buy a used drill on ebay even though I had him test the clutch, but I never knew about these drills have brakes. Thanks. Phil NYC area
Do these things have a bit of wobble in the chuck? I bought a Ryobi off eBay and it does wobble. The seller said I can return it or get a part refund. I made sure the screw is tight but didn't remove the chuck. Thanks.
It should't. Are you sure the chuck is wobbling and maybe not a bent drill bit? Just asking because a slightly bent bit can look like the whole thing is off. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com
Yep, that could work too. I don't have a bench mounted vise, but no reason that wouldn't work well too. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Unfortunately this didn't work for me. Drill doesn't have enough power at 55 nm, and whacking with a hammer won't get it loose. I can use raw force with extra leverage on the allen key, but it just seems to turn the chuck somehow. It's at speed 1, drill mode and in reverse. Any ideas?
Would this be a standard procedure for most brand drills? I have a JCB drill and the chuck has a locking mechanism on it which is a nightmare to unlock so I want to switch it out for a no locking version
I had a Makita drill that would not come off by hitting it with a hammer and allen key like the other videos showed. This one actually works ! Just make sure drill is in the lowest speed (1) for most breaking power and it is in reverse. Also I put the other end of the allen key in a vise. And USE 2 HANDS ON THE DRILL. It can tear your wrist off if you don't hold it very secure and with both hands. Another method that looks like it would work is using an air powered air gun with a hex bit in the drill and the drill in a vise.
Wow a new screw that holds the chunk, no wonder it comes out so easy. Try one that's been on for a while or the teeth are stuck in the middle and can't get anything in!
I got the same milwaulkee drill , brand new and the chuck is grinding my drill bit down like its a friggin lathe. My hexagon shank on my arbour has now become round and a very small diameter from say 10 mm down to 4 mm. This chuck i have is killing me and my bits
I know, it is a disappointment to have such a crappy chuck on a Milwaukee. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com
Thanks for the video which is very helpful. My only comment is, circa 3’ 10” in, I would not suggest placing any tool under torque anywhere near the groin area, as it could lead to painful consequences, or worse, injury. Better to put the mole grips in a vice.
But my chuck won't get tight on nothing that's why I need to replace it, so im gonna have to try the hammer method? Update: Got my Milwaukee one key hammer drill fixed by Milwaukee it was still under warranty, They actually replaced more than the chuck, is like a new $200dls drill now, I'm glad I decide it to take it to the Milwaukee shop.
Good video. I have 2 Milwaukee drills.. one for work and one for home that I wanted to swap chucks.. This is definitely not as easy as it looks. I could not get either chuck off. I got the screw out of one.. that's it.
Sometimes these things will fight you tooth and nail to get them off. If rust has started to build up inside the chuck, you are definitely in for a fight. Good luck man.
Nice vídeo . I need a chuck for my DeWalt hammer drill DCD796. Bought 20 October 2020 and the chuck is already bad. This is why I use a full times. This is crazy brother. I can believe it. If you have any idea or recommendations about a good chuck, let me know. I will appreciate. Do you know if the link you post will work for me as well? Thanks!; May God bless you 😀
It should as long as it was a 1/2" chuck. This one uses the standard 1/2" - 20 threads. Every viewer that has mentioned that they switched to this one say they love it. And yes, it is crazy how so many of the top drill companies are using crappy chucks.
Thank you. I just checked my link in the description and it was no longer good. Here are the updated links. 1/2"-20 Rohm Keyless Chuck: www.amazon.com/Rohm-893350-Extra-RV10-Through-Hole-Diameter/dp/B00DD7KGHY?crid=1UBSKNXQBLIZL&keywords=rohm+1%2F2-20+drill+chuck&qid=1656509535&sprefix=rohm+1%2F2%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-4&linkCode=ll1&tag=greatwhitenin-20&linkId=90c9f41675485fb455a264ec7b2cbecf&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl 3/8"-24 Rohm Keyless Chuck: www.amazon.com/Rohm-893351-Extra-RV10-Through-Hole-Diameter/dp/B00DD7KPPC?pd_rd_w=oQZOH&content-id=amzn1.sym.c32bd24a-4ef0-4e42-bb31-8027e5f6a185&pf_rd_p=c32bd24a-4ef0-4e42-bb31-8027e5f6a185&pf_rd_r=T3J9BEZMRK71CC9MRFRK&pd_rd_wg=TNPdm&pd_rd_r=7afef2da-06bc-4e9b-9a45-23e87828fdb2&pd_rd_i=B00DD7KPPC&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=greatwhitenin-20&linkId=b07919f067e98bf41c4b1d1b571bba9f&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Now, my drill uses the 1/2"-20 but there is also a link for the 3/8"-24
I have a problem with my Milwaukee chuck also, it doesn’t move at all, after I used its hammer setting mode, the jaws become frozen after sometime using the hammer
I have found that the stock chuck on these is just terrible. This drill is actually on it's second factory chuck. I had the first one replaced on warranty, on the last week of the warranty believe it or not, but the newer one started acting up after a year again.
Explaining that's just the way you learned to use a chuck. Oh, and also, I break them all the time and am on my 3rd one. LOL. J/K. Good video, needed the info.
I busted my middle finger after taking the screw out and attempt to use the vice-grip and the biggest hex key (6mm) that I could find my hands on. The vice grip slipped and by the time I had noticed the hex key had already struck my finger. Tip 1. after taking out the screw use wd-40 and wait 15mins for it to soak into the chuck's rod and it will come apart easily. 3 weeks until my finger heals. It's just a scratch still but I wanted to avoid it altogether. Use a decent pair of gloves too.
So, this did remind me that the hammer action can break itself loose however. Most people are not as strong as this guy, and for some reason if your drill is still pushing full torque at the low setting, you can get hurt. I tried to hold the Allen wrench with my foot and it still slipped and hit my shin pretty hard, lucky it didn't crack my bone. I immediately remembered I had a metal pipe and steped on the drill with the pipe on the Allen wrench and it immediately came off. Nothing I did before that worked and I don't have a vise. Now trying to steal a chuck from a rigid drill for it but it just slips wont come off.
Putting the Allen wrench in a pipe is a good idea to give you more leverage. Using a 1/2 or 3/8 galvanized pipe would probably do great. Many of these drills do have a lot of torque so it can get dangerous.
I can breath easy, I dropped one at work and I thought I was going to have to replace the whole drill cause the chuck had a dent (and where I work a dent is enough cause to charge you for a replacement) but with this I can just repair it should the need come because that dent does not seem to have a negative effect. Thank you!
@@AroundTheHome1 my other drill motor went out so I bought a drill chuck for my impact and it keeps breaking the left hand screw leaving the drill bit locked inside and having to buy a new drill chuck
Honestly, I don't know. The impact motor is smaller then a drill, but the impact action is what gives it it's torque. I would think that the answer is no, but I have not tried this to be sure.
Because I love my impact drill but like the concept of the locking chuck like a drill...found a hex shank drill chuck for the impact and I keep snapping the damn left hand screw and locks the bit in the chuck
You are right, many of these cordless drills have cheap chucks. Need to find one with a Jacobs or a Rohm. Strangely enough, I have found the Jacobs on the Master Force sold at Menards and on the Cobalt and Flex at Lowes.
I have a 1/2 inch magnum drill motor 5.5 amps that uses a keyless chuck. That uses the best keyless chuck. They should of used that chuck in there heavy duty cordless drill. They are just making things a lot cheaper these days. But the price is does not go down.
@@AroundTheHome1 Can you tell me if my Porter Cable drill motor 18 volts can get a replacement drill chuck that is of high quality ?? My chuck does not hold drill bits firmly. Can I purchase a high quality one from say Jacobs ??? Thanks
Great video, thanks. Anyone watching this for instructions is surely not as experienced as you are. These are your target viewers. Best to have the allen key in the vise, short bursts of power with two hands on drill, one elbow down side depending whether removing/replacing to catch the kickback. No nasty injuries. You mentioned that the chuck is the weakest link but as the chuck is easily replaced sometimes it's better for it to break before the drill does. Thoughts?
hello the problem is my device has 2 chuck its black & decker cordless 14.4v driver/drill i have screwed out the screw so easily but the problem with the 2 collars after turn one it goes to point that stop and start turning the one behind it so i tried to use 2 wrench one fix one and another wrench to loose the another collar but here is the big problem it doesnt loose whatever i push it so how to replace this doomed chuck i am stuck now with broken jaw teeth??!!
One might ask why are you repairing a drill that doesn't have any batteries. If you don't have batteries and the chuck is busted it is way cheaper to just buy a new drill with new batteries. But to answer your question, most cordless drills have an electronic brake. It's what stops the drill the moment you let off the trigger. So it should be on right now and not allow you to rotate the main chuck. So lock in a large allen like I did in the video, but instead of clamping a vise grips to it, clamp the allen in a bench mounted vise. Then rotate the whole drill. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com
@@AroundTheHome1 thanks for advice man. Mine has a Philips head inside the chuck. The drill was given to my dad because the people at his work didn't wanna fix it. And they didn't wanna give up any batteries
My chuck was on super tight that I needed to use a ratchet and adapter. And the screw required a T40 torx key. And then to add insult to injury, the screw that came with the Rohm chuck I chose is like 70% the diameter of the Milwaukee. I haven't gotten it completely off yet, so I can't comment on whether the post is different too. But it'll REALLY piss me off if it is. At which point I'll tear the drill down far enough to take it off and try to fix all that with my lathe
Yes, that's pretty much it. It has problems staying locked. I have better chucks on cheaper drills. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
I'm sorry, I actually haven't had that problem. If the chuck is locked up and worthless with a bit stuck in it, the only thing I could think of would be to use a fabric abrasive blade in a miter saw and cut the end of the chuck off. Obviously don't cut off too much. It is a bit of a gamble. Good luck whatever you do. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
First I will say that I have not been in that situation before, so I don't have first hand knowledge of the best way out of that. The only thing that I can think of is to put a metal cutting fabric abrasive blade into a miter say and cut the chuck in half so that you can reach the screw. Of course this is just a suggestion so play it safe and don't destroy your drill. You can of course take it to a repair shop as well. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com
This video may be 5 years old. But it's still useful to me today. Thanks for the no fluff content. It's much appreciated.
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Hey thanks, you saved me from having to buy a new drill. I was on the verge of throwing mine out, as I've never been able to remove a chuck before. The allan key trick did it. Also as a bonus, once the chuck came out, I was able to fix the three grippers that had partially jammed for some reason. Luckly, they jammed wide enough to take the allan key. Back to normal now, no money spent. Many thanks mister. Much appreciated.
You are welcome!
Fantastic! My dad and I were scratching our heads for a minute until he said “just UA-cam it”. And here I am. Took us 2 minutes after that. Thanks for the video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Your very detail video saved my Harbor Freight Hercules 1/2" 20V Model HC92K1 drill which sold for $120. It was advertised as "comparable" to the Dewalt drill and a compatable chuck sells for $16 on Amazon that one reviewer indicated it fit Hercules. My drill's chuck would open to full width but would not tighten enough to hold any drill less that 1/4". The screw in the chuck was a Toric 15 and it turns out that it was very loose. I tighten the screw (left threads) and now it works just fine and no new chuck needed.
Glad to help
I was going to buy a new drill but thought I’d check out UA-cam, that’s what was wrong with my drill!!! You just saved me $200.00 dollars!!
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thank you! I just did this after watching your video and swapped out my Chuck with a older drill that had burned out and it worked great now. Thank you for the content!
Glad it helped
Second time changing a chuck on a makita drill .
First time was for a friend , the chuck was completely broken. Teeth were broken so couldn’t use an Allen key . Cut outside chuck casing with a grinder and locked a 24” pipe wrench on chuck to lock it and used a steel site box for mechanical leverage to spin the chuck off .
Tried your method today and had no luck . But decided to just use the vice grips as leverage with the Allen key and it came off .
Good video ,thanks !
Thanks for sharing. One tip is that you can use an impact driver to tighten or loosen the screw inside the drill chuck. This way you won't risk anything grabbing, smacking you in the face, etc. Drills are probably in the top 3 causes of testicle-related injuries.
Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org/
Exactly what I was thinking :)
Yesterday I was trying to twist off the screw with a screwdriver till my skin almost came off. Then I mounted a flat head bit to my mid torque impact wrench and it loosened with just a flinch of the trigger.
Curious, What are the other top 2?
Thanks, bro 🙏
After watching many videos in the last 4 days your video gave me an idea about removing a stuck screw on my drill and it worked. GBY🎉
That's awesome, glad I could help!
Very simple and efficient.
I am watching you tube due to creaters like you.
❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you so much 😀
If I would have found this video long before, oh boy! Thanks! Saved my life!
Glad to help.
Always thinking I can do things with no assistance! This video shows lots of ways to assist a stubborn chuck! Don't tell my kids I didn't know how! Now I do!!!
Don't worry, I won't tell. So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thanks a lot man, you're brilliant.
Very helpful video, it's how smart you work with things, not how much force you use or waste efforts and time.
No damage or scratches or anything to the drill. Clean Work 👍.
Thank you very much!
Thank you for this video as I could not for the life of me find a drill that had a chuck to accept anything above 10mm but plenty of chuck replacements that could. I thought it would be possible to switch it out but man the drill chuck did not want to let go of the drill..makes me think that they really don't want you do switch them out yourself since it moved my arm at a few points. But again your video made me keep on going and I've gotten it off just need to get the replacement chuck on now.
Glad to help
Nice, thanks for the helpful video. Saved me some headaches . Just a little help there.... When you show something to the camera try holding it very still so our eyes can adjust, second hold it in place twice as long as you think nesessary. It gives US time to look, focus, and study without getting agitated about missing the picture. David west fire videos has this technique mastered. 👍 Again thanks for you taking the time to make educational videos ! Much appriciated!
Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com
Thank you, outstanding presentation! I hadn't considered using the strength of the drill itself to do the work. Thanks again.
So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Nice video helped me out! Ready to replace the crap chuck that came w my Hitachi cordless
nice. just the right amount of details. saved me a lot of time and possibly breaking my drill
Glad it helped!
Thanks man! Just took a decent Chuck off a cheap drill where the battery was dying. Hoping that the thread will match an old corded drill I have with a key. Keyless is just a whole lot nicer for low torque jobs like the softwoods I tend to use. Thanks again
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Brilliant
Just used this trick to remove stubborn chuck on ridgid drill that was not coming off with the normal allen key/hammer trick everyone else recommends. Just be careful about the allen key / vise grip combo whipping around. Just touch the trigger at first to give you a gauge of how strong the kickback is going to be then brace yourself accordingly!
Excellent!
Nice! You just saved me a bunch of time. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com
Thanks for the video.
I ended up using a breaker bar and the largest 1/2" drive hex bit that I could fit into the chuck, which ended up being a 7/16" hex for my 1/2" drive drill. I pinned the breaker bar and the drill against the ground and bumped the trigger to break the chuck loose.
Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com
thank you, this is the best and straight to the point video I have watched yet.
You are very welcome.
Your method worked beautifully on a Makita drill! This method worked when all other methods didn't. Thank you for your tutorial!
Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com
Most drills are the same style, I only came across one that was different in probably 30 years. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 each have there own threads thought.
To loosen the screw, you said set the drill to forward position, that means the chuck will turn anticlockwise. Should it not be setting the drill to reverse position to loosen the screw? Please advice.
This video is correct, at least for every drill chuck that I have worked with.
My Craftsman model CMD710 needed a new chuck. went online for warranty replacement, and was sent a brand new drill, and charger. I figured "score" for me and ordered a new chuck figuring to gift out the new one. Used the craftsman site, and the chuck is available. Now things got interesting. Found out my drill has nothing to unscrew. Nothing there but what looks like the end of a shaft. The thread on the new chuck (ordered from Craftsman site) is regular direction. So how am I supposed to get off the old chuck? Do the same thing as normal with something in the chuck and whack it?
I think so. Every drill I have had has a locking screw inside, but there is always a new model that changes something.
Hi, great video. Any idea what the securing screw thread size is? Metric or imperial? Mine needs replacing!
Amazon says no longer available and doesn't know when it will be. Can you recommend a similar decent chuck replacement for this drill in 2023?
Thank you for letting me know. I have updated the links in the video description with a few choices for you.
Awesome! Just what I was looking for. I replaced the chuck in my Ozito in 10 mins after watching your vid. Thanks!!
Glad it helped! Thank you! 😊 And thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thank-you! 🙂This is what I need, to loosen my chuck-and unfortunately maybe even replace it. I do agree, that does suck! For Milwakee to replace the chuck size.
Glad to help.
How would u break it loose if the screw inside the chuck is a revet instead of a screw....
Fellas, if you can tighten the chuck on the Allen wrench you don't have a problem in the first place. What if the chuck is stuck wide open?
Well actually chucks can loose their locking ability, slip, and get a wobble but still hold onto an allen long enough to do this. Obviously if yours is stuck open then you have a bigger problem. Hopefully yours has a metal sleave because the next thing I would suggest is to put a pipe wrench on it.
If the screw is busted, could i drill it out? Mine is HILTI where can i find new screw for chuck
Well maybe you could use an easy out or left handed drill bit.
Can I use my drill to screw it only has the setting to make holes?
Smart all the way..thanks..I'm going to try replacing a 19.2V Craftsman chuck with one from a Ridgid parts drill..hope the thread matches..the Sears is a strong drill but never really gripped bits very well..
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thank you! I'm making a 1/2 impact to drill chuck adapter using the chuck you recommended. I just didn't want to mess with the 1/4 hex drive version, my setup will be much stronger & versatile.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com
@@AroundTheHome1 I had to use a T20 torx on my Dewalt and vise grips (sucker was on there!) but I just removed it and I'll put the new chuck on the drill & make the adapter from the old chuck.
Sounds great.
When I'm in reverse my chuck spills off. any help???
Great video; thank you for taking the time to make it!
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Oh yeah, this is the way to do it, the chuck on my drill came right off. After trying the, hit the Allen key with a hammer trick multiple times, but not too hard, the chuck still refused to come off. Did it like this and she spun off with ease. Thank you sir for this advice... it does indeed work. Only thing I did different was I use a number 3 Phillips to remove the screw, it holds better than a flat... just sayin.
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Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
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Great video could not have done it without you one tip for the next person once removing the set screw and inserting Allen wrench place the drill one the side secure against hard surface set to low gear and slowly press the trigger safer then pressing against abdomen! I was prying and beating I almost destroyed my hammer drill. Thnx buddy keep up the good video!!😬
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Any tips for someone who can't get the screw inside the chuck loose? Is there a way to remove the chuck without removing the screw?
The screw locks the chuck in place. The screw has to come out first.
I unxerstand how to take off chuck, but my problem is the chuck does not spin to close up on a allen wrench. It is stuck open.
Does the outer ring of the chuck hit a stop still or does it just spin?
@@AroundTheHome1 it just spins, there is a yellow ring between the chuck and drill.
Ok, I was hoping that it didn't so that you could put a pipe wrench on it. Is there any part of the outer chuck that you can grab onto? Might have to break the ring off so that you can get a pipe wrench to hold on.
So what do you do with a Milwaukee 1/2 inch chuck that has the bit teeth stuck and the chuck just spins and nothing happens?
I honestly don't know. I would love to try and take one of those off because you are not the only person with that problem.
I just bought a used 1/2" Craftsman C3 (19.2 volt) on ebay and just got it. Seems to work fine with the clutch (no slipping, etc), however when you release the trigger it makes a loud noise (kind of a grind noise) when it stops. Non of my other 3 Craftsman drills make this noise when they stop. Any info would be great as I just received this drill this weekend and need to act on it. Thanks...
Phil
Phil, thanks for the question. Most all cordless drills have brakes on them. Sounds like that is what you are hearing. I don't have any videos on repairs for that, but I would just do a search on that.
@@AroundTheHome1 Thanks for reply.
Is this something I should be concerned about making the drill inoperable? I just bought it from ebay and would send it back if it's a big concern.
I really don't want to send it back, but if it will make the whole drill useless down the road, I would. If the brake is only to stop the drill from spinning when the trigger is released I could probably live with that if the brake fails. Thanks again. Appreciated.
Phil
You know, I don't really know enough about failed brakes to tell you. I don't know if it could lock up all the time or is just going to not work when it should. I don't have a good answer for that one.
@@AroundTheHome1 I do appreciate all your input.
I will decide whether to take a chance on the drill or send it back. The problem, the ebay seller will likely not pay for return shipping so it I will lose that way. Lesson, don;t buy a used drill on ebay even though I had him test the clutch, but I never knew about these drills have brakes. Thanks.
Phil
NYC area
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Do these things have a bit of wobble in the chuck? I bought a Ryobi off eBay and it does wobble. The seller said I can return it or get a part refund. I made sure the screw is tight but didn't remove the chuck. Thanks.
It should't. Are you sure the chuck is wobbling and maybe not a bent drill bit? Just asking because a slightly bent bit can look like the whole thing is off. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com
I was thinking that, you could put the Allen key in a vice to save your wrists form whip lash.?
Yep, that could work too. I don't have a bench mounted vise, but no reason that wouldn't work well too. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Unfortunately this didn't work for me. Drill doesn't have enough power at 55 nm, and whacking with a hammer won't get it loose. I can use raw force with extra leverage on the allen key, but it just seems to turn the chuck somehow. It's at speed 1, drill mode and in reverse. Any ideas?
Would this be a standard procedure for most brand drills? I have a JCB drill and the chuck has a locking mechanism on it which is a nightmare to unlock so I want to switch it out for a no locking version
Yes, this will work on most drills. Can't say for them all, but this is a standard procedure to remove a chuck.
I had a Makita drill that would not come off by hitting it with a hammer and allen key like the other videos showed.
This one actually works ! Just make sure drill is in the lowest speed (1) for most breaking power and it is in reverse. Also I put the other end of the allen key in a vise. And USE 2 HANDS ON THE DRILL. It can tear your wrist off if you don't hold it very secure and with both hands.
Another method that looks like it would work is using an air powered air gun with a hex bit in the drill and the drill in a vise.
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Wow a new screw that holds the chunk, no wonder it comes out so easy. Try one that's been on for a while or the teeth are stuck in the middle and can't get anything in!
Question...not that it would be a huge loss but how do you get the allen wrench back out after using it to remove the chuck? Lol
You can just grab the chuck and open it.
Thank you for your patience
No worries!
I got the same milwaulkee drill , brand new and the chuck is grinding my drill bit down like its a friggin lathe. My hexagon shank on my arbour has now become round and a very small diameter from say 10 mm down to 4 mm. This chuck i have is killing me and my bits
I know, it is a disappointment to have such a crappy chuck on a Milwaukee. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com
Thanks for the video which is very helpful. My only comment is, circa 3’ 10” in, I would not suggest placing any tool under torque anywhere near the groin area, as it could lead to painful consequences, or worse, injury. Better to put the mole grips in a vice.
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Great stuff! Is it possible to replace a keyless chuck with a key chuck? Thanks for answering.
Sure, as long as the treads fit the spindle. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
But my chuck won't get tight on nothing that's why I need to replace it, so im gonna have to try the hammer method?
Update: Got my Milwaukee one key hammer drill fixed by Milwaukee it was still under warranty, They actually replaced more than the chuck, is like a new $200dls drill now, I'm glad I decide it to take it to the Milwaukee shop.
Yeah that's my problem as well ..
Excellent detailed video, have to replace my chuck its worn out and is hard to tighten and loosen when installing drill bits.
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Good video. I have 2 Milwaukee drills.. one for work and one for home that I wanted to swap chucks.. This is definitely not as easy as it looks. I could not get either chuck off. I got the screw out of one.. that's it.
Sometimes these things will fight you tooth and nail to get them off. If rust has started to build up inside the chuck, you are definitely in for a fight. Good luck man.
Awesome advice! Best solution I’ve seen. Worked with no effort.
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Nice vídeo .
I need a chuck for my DeWalt hammer drill DCD796. Bought 20 October 2020 and the chuck is already bad. This is why I use a full times. This is crazy brother. I can believe it.
If you have any idea or recommendations about a good chuck, let me know. I will appreciate.
Do you know if the link you post will work for me as well?
Thanks!; May God bless you 😀
It should as long as it was a 1/2" chuck. This one uses the standard 1/2" - 20 threads. Every viewer that has mentioned that they switched to this one say they love it. And yes, it is crazy how so many of the top drill companies are using crappy chucks.
I have the same problem. Do you have the link for the new one?
Thank you. I just checked my link in the description and it was no longer good. Here are the updated links. 1/2"-20 Rohm Keyless Chuck: www.amazon.com/Rohm-893350-Extra-RV10-Through-Hole-Diameter/dp/B00DD7KGHY?crid=1UBSKNXQBLIZL&keywords=rohm+1%2F2-20+drill+chuck&qid=1656509535&sprefix=rohm+1%2F2%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-4&linkCode=ll1&tag=greatwhitenin-20&linkId=90c9f41675485fb455a264ec7b2cbecf&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
3/8"-24 Rohm Keyless Chuck: www.amazon.com/Rohm-893351-Extra-RV10-Through-Hole-Diameter/dp/B00DD7KPPC?pd_rd_w=oQZOH&content-id=amzn1.sym.c32bd24a-4ef0-4e42-bb31-8027e5f6a185&pf_rd_p=c32bd24a-4ef0-4e42-bb31-8027e5f6a185&pf_rd_r=T3J9BEZMRK71CC9MRFRK&pd_rd_wg=TNPdm&pd_rd_r=7afef2da-06bc-4e9b-9a45-23e87828fdb2&pd_rd_i=B00DD7KPPC&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=greatwhitenin-20&linkId=b07919f067e98bf41c4b1d1b571bba9f&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
Now, my drill uses the 1/2"-20 but there is also a link for the 3/8"-24
Now this is a truly good UA-cam how to video nicely done bud and thank you 🙏
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I have a problem with my Milwaukee chuck also, it doesn’t move at all, after I used its hammer setting mode, the jaws become frozen after sometime using the hammer
I have found that the stock chuck on these is just terrible. This drill is actually on it's second factory chuck. I had the first one replaced on warranty, on the last week of the warranty believe it or not, but the newer one started acting up after a year again.
Explaining that's just the way you learned to use a chuck. Oh, and also, I break them all the time and am on my 3rd one. LOL.
J/K. Good video, needed the info.
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Your Cool......Explain well for a Lady with no Man to Help at Home ......Thanks. .....😉
Happy to help!
What do you do if the Chuck stuck closed?
Does the chuck grip turn and is it metal?
I busted my middle finger after taking the screw out and attempt to use the vice-grip and the biggest hex key (6mm) that I could find my hands on. The vice grip slipped and by the time I had noticed the hex key had already struck my finger.
Tip 1. after taking out the screw use wd-40 and wait 15mins for it to soak into the chuck's rod and it will come apart easily.
3 weeks until my finger heals. It's just a scratch still but I wanted to avoid it altogether. Use a decent pair of gloves too.
So, this did remind me that the hammer action can break itself loose however. Most people are not as strong as this guy, and for some reason if your drill is still pushing full torque at the low setting, you can get hurt. I tried to hold the Allen wrench with my foot and it still slipped and hit my shin pretty hard, lucky it didn't crack my bone. I immediately remembered I had a metal pipe and steped on the drill with the pipe on the Allen wrench and it immediately came off. Nothing I did before that worked and I don't have a vise. Now trying to steal a chuck from a rigid drill for it but it just slips wont come off.
Putting the Allen wrench in a pipe is a good idea to give you more leverage. Using a 1/2 or 3/8 galvanized pipe would probably do great. Many of these drills do have a lot of torque so it can get dangerous.
I can breath easy, I dropped one at work and I thought I was going to have to replace the whole drill cause the chuck had a dent (and where I work a dent is enough cause to charge you for a replacement) but with this I can just repair it should the need come because that dent does not seem to have a negative effect. Thank you!
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It may also work with a Robertson driver/bit.
Nicely explained. Your Calm relaxed attitude helps too. Thanks
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Is it possible to change out the black and decker impact to a shank drill chuck? My drill died and was wondering if its capable
Are you asking if you can make an impact into a drill?
@@AroundTheHome1 that's exactly what I'm asking. Is it possible? Not sure its possible without taking the whole thing apart
@@AroundTheHome1 my other drill motor went out so I bought a drill chuck for my impact and it keeps breaking the left hand screw leaving the drill bit locked inside and having to buy a new drill chuck
Honestly, I don't know. The impact motor is smaller then a drill, but the impact action is what gives it it's torque. I would think that the answer is no, but I have not tried this to be sure.
Because I love my impact drill but like the concept of the locking chuck like a drill...found a hex shank drill chuck for the impact and I keep snapping the damn left hand screw and locks the bit in the chuck
Needed to clamp and hit with my mallet for my Rigid drill. Good video and links.
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Thanks! This worked for my Craftsman drill
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Unfortunately both those links lead to items that are unavailable.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Brilliant video. Thank you ever so much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have never had problems with the chuck on any drill with a cord, every cordless one has stripped and I'm done with cordless ones.
You are right, many of these cordless drills have cheap chucks. Need to find one with a Jacobs or a Rohm. Strangely enough, I have found the Jacobs on the Master Force sold at Menards and on the Cobalt and Flex at Lowes.
I have a 1/2 inch magnum drill motor 5.5 amps that uses a keyless chuck. That uses the best keyless chuck. They should of used that chuck in there heavy duty cordless drill. They are just making things a lot cheaper these days. But the price is does not go down.
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@@AroundTheHome1 Thanks for the confirmation and will watch more of your videos Sir.
@@AroundTheHome1 Can you tell me if my Porter Cable drill motor 18 volts can get a replacement drill chuck that is of high quality ?? My chuck does not hold drill bits firmly. Can I purchase a high quality one from say Jacobs ??? Thanks
Great video, thanks. Anyone watching this for instructions is surely not as experienced as you are. These are your target viewers. Best to have the allen key in the vise, short bursts of power with two hands on drill, one elbow down side depending whether removing/replacing to catch the kickback. No nasty injuries. You mentioned that the chuck is the weakest link but as the chuck is easily replaced sometimes it's better for it to break before the drill does. Thoughts?
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Thank you so much 🙏
You're welcome 😊
hello the problem is my device has 2 chuck its black & decker cordless 14.4v driver/drill i have screwed out the screw so easily but the problem with the 2 collars after turn one it goes to point that stop and start turning the one behind it so i tried to use 2 wrench one fix one and another wrench to loose the another collar but here is the big problem it doesnt loose whatever i push it so how to replace this doomed chuck i am stuck now with broken jaw teeth??!!
I shouldn't have watched the video so close to the screen, now I'm coughing just like you.
I ain't got no battery for mine, and the chuck needs to be removed. How can I do it with no battery?
One might ask why are you repairing a drill that doesn't have any batteries. If you don't have batteries and the chuck is busted it is way cheaper to just buy a new drill with new batteries. But to answer your question, most cordless drills have an electronic brake. It's what stops the drill the moment you let off the trigger. So it should be on right now and not allow you to rotate the main chuck. So lock in a large allen like I did in the video, but instead of clamping a vise grips to it, clamp the allen in a bench mounted vise. Then rotate the whole drill. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com
@@AroundTheHome1 thanks for advice man. Mine has a Philips head inside the chuck. The drill was given to my dad because the people at his work didn't wanna fix it. And they didn't wanna give up any batteries
nice idea, good job, but think to protec your boddy parts by gloves, boggles, leather apron before remove the jaw chuck or any else works!
Hahahahaha safety officer, pull your head in..back yard job..
Great idea, thanks. I used a bench vice and that work perfectly
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I learnt something within two minutes!!!!
Excellent video, got me out of a bind. Thanks!
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I'm trying to take it off a dead drill so the problem is getting a wrench under it
My chuck was on super tight that I needed to use a ratchet and adapter. And the screw required a T40 torx key. And then to add insult to injury, the screw that came with the Rohm chuck I chose is like 70% the diameter of the Milwaukee. I haven't gotten it completely off yet, so I can't comment on whether the post is different too. But it'll REALLY piss me off if it is. At which point I'll tear the drill down far enough to take it off and try to fix all that with my lathe
Is your Milwaukee drill a Fuel model? They use a different size chuck and different mounting screw.
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
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My 'chuck sucks'....impressive handy work, but you didn't really define what a chuck sucking meant. What is a symptom, weak grip?
Yes, that's pretty much it. It has problems staying locked. I have better chucks on cheaper drills. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Wow Your Video Helped Me Remove The Chuck 100% Spot On👍
Great to hear!
What can you do if a drill bit is stuck ?
I'm sorry, I actually haven't had that problem. If the chuck is locked up and worthless with a bit stuck in it, the only thing I could think of would be to use a fabric abrasive blade in a miter saw and cut the end of the chuck off. Obviously don't cut off too much. It is a bit of a gamble. Good luck whatever you do. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thank you. Super clear video. I agree the hammer and vice stuff is really unnessisary.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thanks mate my chuck just went on my m12 drill video was great going to buy new drill now l can buy just the chuck
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My m12 fuel hammer drill the chuck has gone bad twice. I'm taking it back to be fixed again. And my other Milwaukee drill clutch has gone bad.
Thanks for the video. Exactly what I needed.
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The chuck on my Ridgid drill broke last night. It's got a 5/32" bit stuck in it and won't open. Any ideas?
First I will say that I have not been in that situation before, so I don't have first hand knowledge of the best way out of that. The only thing that I can think of is to put a metal cutting fabric abrasive blade into a miter say and cut the chuck in half so that you can reach the screw. Of course this is just a suggestion so play it safe and don't destroy your drill. You can of course take it to a repair shop as well. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com
Try 2 channel locks. Use them to turn the two parts that you usually turn by hand.
You make It look simple. My Menards cordless Chuck is So shot a Hex Screwdriver Bit Holder spins in It, so Experimentation City is The Game
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@@AroundTheHome1 Thanx I tried getting My "So-Called" usable chuck loose & it turned out to be so stripped cogs I couldnt even get it off...
Nice one. Thanks a lot for the info. Keep safe you and yours.
Thanks, you too!