I’m a design engineer for a precision air tool manufacturer for aerospace and defense applications, we ran through a gamut of chucks and transitioned to ROHM chucks several years ago. Each time I’ve tested them they’ve held .001 runout at 2" to 3" from the rear face of the chuck depending on the size of the chuck. They hold drills better than most as well. We run them over 6,000 rpm in many applications.
@@agg42 a lot of that comes down to being able to fit our product line, cost vs performance, and availability. Albrecht primarily makes mill chucks that are larger and heavier than the chucks we were looking for. Is there a different product line that they have that would fit a 1/2HP palm drill up to a 1.5HP air drill?
@@SOHCHEADJust out of curiosity, do you by any chance have a list of the various chucks you compared? Maybe a ranking system? Just curious as I'm in the market and have had my eye on a Jacobs chuck...
The disclosure should not be easily missed PER FTC guidelines. If someone doesn't watch all the way to the end of the video no one would know this is a sponsored video. Disclosures should be hard to miss. Per FTC 101 for Social Media Influencers. Disclosures are likely to be missed if they appear only on an ABOUT ME or profile page, at the end of posts or videos, or anywhere that requires a person to click MORE.
Yeah, it would have been nice to have the sponsorship more prominently located. But, in all fairness, Rohm does make fantastic chucks, not just for handheld drills but also for all other drill applications.
PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. BTW - these are $50-$70. NO TESTING. The testing section has no actual comparison of the advertised chuck to another brand like Jacobs (which are good chucks!). In one shot you see a hole supposedly drilled with another chuck where the bit wobbles around in the hole. FAKE!?. That DOES NOT happen. A plastic chuck would do better than that. This is why people like Project Farm so much. You can trust that channel. PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. should be at the front, not end, and at the top of the description (it's 7 lines down).
I have DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Bosch drills. When trying to drill straight and precise in certain applications they all have noticeable wobble. Especially the DeWalt.
You have no clearly stated that this is a sponsored video. Sponsored content should not be hard to discern by the viewer. It is to be communicated to your viewer as soon as possible in a "hard to miss" manner per FTC regulations. Disclosures are likely to be missed if they appear only on an ABOUT ME or profile page, at the end of posts or videos, or anywhere that requires a person to click MORE.
I watched videos of his but disinformation to many is enough. I am going to don't recommend and dislike every video until he stops showing up since UA-cam doesn't allow easy blocking a channel.
Röhm is the go to Manufacturer when it comes to chucks, tool or part holding. They are the best of the best, doesnt matter if on the Lathe, on the Mill or as you shown on the Cordless Drill. If you can, always choose Röhm, Quality from Germany. Another thing ... i never in my live heared anyone say that Woodworkers are geared towards accuracy ... We have a saying in Germany and i try to translate it as best as i can. Metalworkers work in micrometers, woodworkers work in milimeters and brick layers have to see that they are on the right property.
Now I'm going through ALL of my drills and seeing what chucks are on them haha! Never thought about this type of upgrade. Thanks so much for letting us know Nils.
Great topic. An excellent alternative if you have a cheaper drill that you don’t feel like spending a lot on is the Jacobs brand chucks. At one time, Jacob’s was the premier chuck available, but they have become Chinese since. Their chucks are not as great as they used to be but still way better what comes on 90% of the drills today. They are also very reasonable with some excellent models under $10.
2:57 I wouldn't typically think of a Jacob's chuck as lower quality. Are you asserting that Jacob's made an inferior chuck for Flex? Or was it your personal experience that led you to that conclusion?
I tested the Jacobs chuck before and after swapping it out for the Rohm and it ran straighter (the bit) and felt tighter with the Röhm. Jacobs chucks aren’t bad chucks, they’re just not manufactured with the same quality control and engineering as Röhm. Jacobs no longer makes chucks in America. Rohm’s are designed and manufactured in Germany, where a close eye is kept on QC.
Jacob’s has deteriorated in quality, their chucks are no longer viable for precision work. Their runout and ability to hold are significantly worse than they used to be, likely before manufacturing moved. Röhm makes a solid chuck that I’ve yet to see run the same loss of quality as Jacob’s.
I knew I had a bad chuck on one of my cordless drills, so this was a good time to check all of them. I made a simple setup on my welding table, lightly clamped the drill to the table, chucked a steel dowel pin in the drill and checked the runout. The bad one was .01, the other 2 were .005 and .004. Not too bad for a cordless drill. I ordered a new Rohm chuck and replaced the bad one. It tested at .002. The one that is at .004 is a standard Dewalt chuck replaced a year ago.
Yes agreed did this to the early makita drills that were keyed chuck and Jacob's chuck was the fix then in the 90s so Thank you for sharing the information
Good timing I've been looking for a decent chuck the last week, I just got a new Makita drill with a metal chuckk, and it made me realize how crappy the one on the subcompact drill is…
While you should have revealed that this was a paid promotion upfront, I none the less appreciated the video. I have a Milwaukee cordless drill that I really like but the chuck has been giving me issues (very difficult to loosen after tightening). I wanted to do something about it but wasn't aware that replacement chucks were available so it looks like I'll be heading over to ROHM for a new one.
Great tip--thank you. In return, I have one tip for you. At 5:39, you should flip the channel locks over to greatly reduce the amount of effort it takes to grip something with the channel locks. I know you know this because I saw the video you made on this topic. I learned how to properly use channel locks back in high school, some 45 years ago, so I immediately see when people are using them wrong. I'm guessing you're having a hard time breaking that old habit, huh? In either case, thanks again for the informative video on the chuck upgrade.
That's perfect for what I currently do with keyed steel chucks which is drill and tap them 1/2"-13 (using a lathe to keep things concentric) then turn my angle grinders into high speed right angle die grinders but without dragging another tool in the bucket. Thanks for the video! Many drills have inferior chucks for which these are an upgrade. Their larger cousins are popular in machine tool usage.
6:47 "forward" direction is only to remove the holding/locking screw that is reverse-threaded, to remove the chuck, you need to be in the reverse direction, otherwise you'll be tightening the chuck. Same concept at 7:43, first you need to put it in forward to put the chuck on, then in reverse to tighten the locking screw.
I change the chuck on my craftsman heavy duty drill 20 years ago. Best upgrade I ever did to that drill. The original couldn’t handle 1/2 drill bits and didn’t hold the bits after a year of use.
I’ve been a 3rd generation Carpenter for 20 years among other types of work auto mechanic steel, different types of metal work I have all types of drills and Flex is an amazing powerful machine but the chucks aren’t great I tried to change the anvil on my impact to a 3/8 socket drive with a 1/4 hex inside the 3/8 for my own versatility options and efficiency but for love of god and can’t find an anvil to fit to replace it 😂 hoping you could help being your the drill master in my opinion hope to hear from you or someone else who’s had this issue I can’t be the only one because I want to keep my Flex impact and not have to have another impact for my uses it’s more power that I need just a an anvil will do thanks
My Milwaukee chucks are awsome, never had any issues like you mentioned and replacing it with the on you mentioned would if anything be a downgrade. Tested alot of chucks and Milwaukee are simply awesome
@@v8tergt653 I've noticed it's worst on the FPD3 (2904?) but I think it might be due to the hammer functionality, though that doesn't casue issues in other drills. Mitigated with a better chuck.
My DeWalt's all have Rohm chucks, OEM, but bought upgraded Rohm chucks for the hammer function drills. Same for my drill press, only Rohm had the proper taper on a high-precision keyless chuck. Each chuck ran $100 - $150 but worth the premium.
I have a bit mixed feelings about the whole saga with the "locking" chucks thing tbh. The first video was just straight up wrong, where the main complaints were the spreading of misinformation and the lack of research when this information is pretty much openly available. I mean, if you call customer service youre not gonna talk to an engineer, you are gonna talk to a 20 year old who just needed a job and will say whatever makes you get off the line so they dont get yelled at for taking too long. The second video did at least correct the wrong information, but none of the others were addressed at all. Instead choosing to focus on how well the video did and angling things as "those darn companies was wrong" Idk it just makes me skeptical to the other things you do now, like praising a new chuck as the best thing since sliced bread, breathing new life into an old drill and whatnot? If you have a bad chuck, sure, but the rest of it sounds pretty dubious ngl. "Get into tight spaces" with the 2mm you save and what not.
Basically a commercial for Rohm. Learning better drill control will far outweigh any advantage changing a drill chuck would give, unless the chuck is severely damaged or complete junk like on china knock off.
I use the Worx drill can I upgrade the chuck? I love this little drill it's perfect for what I use it for I know it's not top of the line but I love it
Great Video!! I have a Dewalt DCD771 1/2" (13mm) Drill Driver but its not listed on the Rohm website. What do I do? Need to replace chuck. Don't believe it has a Rohm chuck lol. Thank you!!!
I just looked at my Dewalt 20 volt drill. I don’t see a name on the chuck, I opened it wide enough to look inside and it doesn’t seem to have a removable bolt. What is your opinion on that?
I've got the Makita Subcompact drill, which came with a Rohm chuck. Contrary to its reputation, this particular plastic chuck has a rather annoying ratcheting issue. It has vastly better grip than my Dewalt DCB805, but my best chuck experience was with Milwaukee
@@GageDrumssame here with both my Gen 1 and now Gen 3 M12 Fuel drills. No issues with their metal chucks. My installation driver also came with a metal chuck. Haven’t used it much though.
I guess RÖHM as well as many other brands have quality tiers among their products. The plastic housing on that chuck is a dead giveaway that corners were cut
this is funny back in 2017 i was on the hunt on upgrading my chuck but no one talk about it , so i left the stock chuck on it but now i know what brand to get :D
Great presentation! I have a Dewalt brushless that came with a terrible chuck. Gave me all kinds of problems right out of the box. I can't seem to find a fastener down inside the chuck and I've read you have to take the drill all apart to break it loose. Any experience with this?
They have purposely made it almost impossible to replace it without destroying the drill in the process. Its the same with my dewalt drill. They presumably want you to buy a new drill once the chuck gives up. If you search how to remove the chuck for the model number on youtube you'll probably find a video that shows how to do it, but its a PITA and a high chance of destroying the drill as you need to apply so much force and take the drill to bits.
I have a DCD800 Dewalt that had a terrible chuck out of the box. I took it back and exchanged it. Second one had wobble too. Decided to change it out with a Rohm. This is an "around the house" drill for me, so i settled on a method to remove the chuck. This may make you cringe, and i don't really recommend it. I chucked up a 3\8" hex bit with a 1\2" square drive into the stock chuck and stuck an impact on the bit. I had the drill in reverse at a slow speed and burped the impact. It broke free immediately and spun right off. I havent seen anyone else use that method, but it worked perfect for me. I may have to try it on a few other drill, for science of course.
@@Cpm0487 Hey just to clarify, I assume you removed the backwards-threaded torx before you impacted the chuck off? Tangentially related, anybody know if the 794 takes the same Rohm Extra-RV50-13 (1322451) as the rest of the DeWalts? It doesn't show up in their finder...and the OEM chuck is plastic...
I had a cheap drill chuck broke and replaced it with a dacade old chuck from a broke DeWalt I had lying around, it't a Rohm one and indeed better than the factory one :)
Chuck removal tip : If the left-handed chuck screw won’t loosen, insert the hex key into the chuck and tighten the chuck tighter onto the spindle then remove the screw then remove the chuck. The purpose of the LH screw is to help keep the chuck from unscrewing when using the drill in reverse and if the chuck has unscrewed itself, it will be jammed against the screw making removal of the screw difficult.
Well, you shouldn't.t ask people for the answer. If you have the drill the answer is simple. Look closely at that chuck with a magnifier glass and the word ROHM should be written on it somewhere. Simple.
Years ago my favorite battery drill was a Skil Top Gun 12V. All steel transmission gears. Kinda heavy but rock solid. NiCad batteries (sealed & unserviceable) were a low point. But putting on a new keyless chuck was a game changer upgrade. I still have the drill. Finding better components isn't easy. Better than the interrupting ads inserted by Alphabet Co.
How to remove a chuck in Dewalt dcd800 drill? Three is a rounded pin to secure a spindle. My only idea is to drill a pin to make possible to unscrew the Chuck.
I love my battery powered Dewalt Drills but my older plug in drills while still powerful give me a lot of grief because the chucks are incredibly hard to open to their full capacity and do not lock properly. Why didn’t we know that we could replace the chucks? I’m going to check my drill models and order the appropriate chuck. Thank you for this video.
Does anyone know if I can remove chuck on m12 gen 3 hammer drill by applying high torque application in reverse with screw removed? hex key and hummer doesn't help
Do Röhm make cheaper budget chucks? I have a drill by parkside that cost €70 as a kit and has a Röhm 13mm metal chuck on it so curious if it's the same as on pro tools Edit: it looks identical to the extra50-RV but it's longer, like 70mm
It sure could. The chuck should be able to release the bit with a normal amount of backwards pressure. If it’s not doing that, it could be a chuck issue.
is there a chuck for a rotary hammer (sds plus)? my hammer bit is wabbling like crazy and its impossible to drill precision holes on there own, I use a hilti drill to predrill a small hole before I use the rotary hammer, but this isn't fun changing tools and sizes.
Which ROHM Chuck do I pick between the EXTRA80-RV and EXTRA50-RV and why, for odd jobs and mods around the house on a Dewalt DCD800E2 drill with no hammer function?
It seems that after some online pic comparison that I have on my Dewalt DCD800E2 from the factory the Jacobs flagship 8000 series metal chuck. You can tell by the design of it and by the color of the jaws vs the pics on Jacobs website. However, they make two kinds of jaws one with carbide and one with steel, and I am not sure which is the one that I have. That said, I am thinking this may be good enough for my uses and not terribly worth the upgrade to the ROHM EXTRA80-RV or ROHM EXTRA50-RV. Especially if the install is any harder than what's in this video.
This is just a personal preference, but about 20 years ago my grandfather had about 10 ancient corded drills that all had solid steel chucks with the little gear/lever thing to tighten/loosen them. Well those drills eventually bit the dust (hes disabled from childhood polio so he spends his days either gardening or crafting) those chucks on modern drills are a combo made in heaven.
Those are called Keyed chucks. They still get plenty of use in machine shops for when a left-handed drill needs to be used. Most keyless chucks have a tendency to loosen when ran counter-clockwise.
One of my first cordless drills was a Bosch I bought in 1988. The dealer sold me a Jacobs chuck at the time I bought it, That combo was unbeatable for years until the batteries died and I couldn't get replacements.
You mentioned batteries earlier and I was wondering if you've had any experience with the off brand 18v Ni-Cad replacements for Porter Cable tools. My impact driver is fairly old, obviously, and I'd rather not spend the price of a new driver on replacement batteries, especially since I only use it occasionally. Thanks, W
If you have a few tools and batteries I would get a battery adapter for the porter cable and buy lithium batteries to use on them. And a new charger & batteries porter cable maybe?
Hey, as a German myself, I am kind of sad that you talk the entire video about the capital of Italy and not the German Company Röhm with an ö! To be honest, it is pronounced quite differently! But great Video by the way. :)
I have a Hitachi 18v hammer drill. As you know Hatachi was bought out by Matabo. The site doesn;t list Hatachi and the model number must be different than Matabo. Also there isn't any way to contact Rohm. How can I find the right chuck for my drill?
That webpage never loads properly. Cant see what chuck works with Dewalt DCD999 & what for DCD777 Since the 999 comes with a Rohm Chuck is there a better one you can get?
I own the flex turbo hammer drill FX 1271T and I noticed that you upgraded yours. Can’t seem to find this model on the Roehm website. Can you clarify which model I should buy?
My question is if the higher end models already have a rohm chuck, if you get one from the website will it be the same as the factory one or a different better/smaller one?
You need special tools + torque wrench and the screw is on the inside so you´ll need tear down the entire gearbox to switch chucks. It sucks, don´t do it.
Weird, only AEG on the Rohm page. Was looking yo match my ridgid hammer drill. I see though only 2 checks from all the brands and models, either the extra-rv50 or rv80 to choose from.
yo le hice una mejora al chuck. calente un pedazo de tubo de plastico a la medida del chuck y con algo caliente le hice rombos de agarre y asi no se resbala ni desgasta el metal con el uso
I.ve got a 12V drill (by Bosch). and has a small and Lame looking chusc that can only take up to 10mm diameter drill bit. My plan si to swap it with a bigger size metal chuck that opens up to a maximum of 13mm. It would make my day !!!!
I’m a design engineer for a precision air tool manufacturer for aerospace and defense applications, we ran through a gamut of chucks and transitioned to ROHM chucks several years ago. Each time I’ve tested them they’ve held .001 runout at 2" to 3" from the rear face of the chuck depending on the size of the chuck. They hold drills better than most as well. We run them over 6,000 rpm in many applications.
Surprised Rohm won out over entirely better brand like Albrecht.
@@agg42 a lot of that comes down to being able to fit our product line, cost vs performance, and availability. Albrecht primarily makes mill chucks that are larger and heavier than the chucks we were looking for.
Is there a different product line that they have that would fit a 1/2HP palm drill up to a 1.5HP air drill?
You just saved me from watching this. Appreciate that
@@SOHCHEADJust out of curiosity, do you by any chance have a list of the various chucks you compared? Maybe a ranking system? Just curious as I'm in the market and have had my eye on a Jacobs chuck...
Saying this is a paid promotion at the start of the video, instead of the end, is much more ethical, IMHO.
The disclosure should not be easily missed PER FTC guidelines. If someone doesn't watch all the way to the end of the video no one would know this is a sponsored video.
Disclosures should be hard to miss.
Per FTC 101 for Social Media Influencers.
Disclosures are likely to be missed if they appear only on an ABOUT ME or profile page, at the end of posts or videos, or anywhere that requires a person to click MORE.
Didn’t finish the video entirely and I had no idea it was sponsored.
Not only that, it's an FTC violation.
That's our boy for you. Decent, patient, honest and true.
First and last time I will watch this channel
Nice infomercial on Rohm drill chucks. They should get a lot of business from it. 👍
Yeah, it would have been nice to have the sponsorship more prominently located. But, in all fairness, Rohm does make fantastic chucks, not just for handheld drills but also for all other drill applications.
Report his video. Make him stop treating you like this.
@@Psyopcyclops 🤷♂️ for what ? 🤦♂️
PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. BTW - these are $50-$70. NO TESTING. The testing section has no actual comparison of the advertised chuck to another brand like Jacobs (which are good chucks!). In one shot you see a hole supposedly drilled with another chuck where the bit wobbles around in the hole. FAKE!?. That DOES NOT happen. A plastic chuck would do better than that. This is why people like Project Farm so much. You can trust that channel. PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. should be at the front, not end, and at the top of the description (it's 7 lines down).
I have DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Bosch drills. When trying to drill straight and precise in certain applications they all have noticeable wobble. Especially the DeWalt.
@@grbggaming6885
Hercules drills have Jacobs chucks
I was sold when you pointed out how the chuck could turn my normal size drill into a compact by shortening an eight of an inch. Amazing
😂
I've actually lusted after a Sioux angle drill for several decades, but never got around to buying one.
Lol
Too funny
You have no clearly stated that this is a sponsored video. Sponsored content should not be hard to discern by the viewer. It is to be communicated to your viewer as soon as possible in a "hard to miss" manner per FTC regulations.
Disclosures are likely to be missed if they appear only on an ABOUT ME or profile page, at the end of posts or videos, or anywhere that requires a person to click MORE.
It's in the description. Learn to read
@@ConsolGameRyou should learn to read. Please reread the comment above.
I watched videos of his but disinformation to many is enough. I am going to don't recommend and dislike every video until he stops showing up since UA-cam doesn't allow easy blocking a channel.
Röhm is the go to Manufacturer when it comes to chucks, tool or part holding. They are the best of the best, doesnt matter if on the Lathe, on the Mill or as you shown on the Cordless Drill. If you can, always choose Röhm, Quality from Germany.
Another thing ... i never in my live heared anyone say that Woodworkers are geared towards accuracy ... We have a saying in Germany and i try to translate it as best as i can. Metalworkers work in micrometers, woodworkers work in milimeters and brick layers have to see that they are on the right property.
Now I'm going through ALL of my drills and seeing what chucks are on them haha! Never thought about this type of upgrade. Thanks so much for letting us know Nils.
This was news to me not that long ago too. It’s been cool to see the difference before and after. Thanks for watching, Brent!
Your credibility suffers when you fail to disclose this is an infomercial
Great topic. An excellent alternative if you have a cheaper drill that you don’t feel like spending a lot on is the Jacobs brand chucks. At one time, Jacob’s was the premier chuck available, but they have become Chinese since. Their chucks are not as great as they used to be but still way better what comes on 90% of the drills today. They are also very reasonable with some excellent models under $10.
2:57 I wouldn't typically think of a Jacob's chuck as lower quality. Are you asserting that Jacob's made an inferior chuck for Flex? Or was it your personal experience that led you to that conclusion?
I tested the Jacobs chuck before and after swapping it out for the Rohm and it ran straighter (the bit) and felt tighter with the Röhm. Jacobs chucks aren’t bad chucks, they’re just not manufactured with the same quality control and engineering as Röhm. Jacobs no longer makes chucks in America. Rohm’s are designed and manufactured in Germany, where a close eye is kept on QC.
Jacob’s has deteriorated in quality, their chucks are no longer viable for precision work.
Their runout and ability to hold are significantly worse than they used to be, likely before manufacturing moved. Röhm makes a solid chuck that I’ve yet to see run the same loss of quality as Jacob’s.
@@LRN2DIY Its a shame to see so many big US brands move manufacturing to China. I even noticed some Estwing hammers are now made in China.
@@SOHCHEAD
Mine are so old and last so long, I didn't even know about current quality.
@@noire1001 I hadn't heard that about Estwing. Sad.
I knew I had a bad chuck on one of my cordless drills, so this was a good time to check all of them. I made a simple setup on my welding table, lightly clamped the drill to the table, chucked a steel dowel pin in the drill and checked the runout. The bad one was .01, the other 2 were .005 and .004. Not too bad for a cordless drill. I ordered a new Rohm chuck and replaced the bad one. It tested at .002. The one that is at .004 is a standard Dewalt chuck replaced a year ago.
Yes agreed did this to the early makita drills that were keyed chuck and Jacob's chuck was the fix then in the 90s so Thank you for sharing the information
Excelente mi Hermano, no conocía del Chuck
Rom
I've always used Jacobs in the past, and I've been very satisfied with them. I'll have to check out the roehm chucks.
Makita’s metal chucks are awesome. Japanese made. I swapped the Makita plastic chucks for the metal ones on a few
I didn't hear you mention what Rohm stated about backing up the chuck one click when changing bits. Did I miss it?
That was just a segue to the 8 minute advert.
Great video. Never knew that chucks could be upgraded or Rohm as a premium chuck. Great tip! Thanks!
Good timing I've been looking for a decent chuck the last week, I just got a new Makita drill with a metal chuckk, and it made me realize how crappy the one on the subcompact drill is…
While you should have revealed that this was a paid promotion upfront, I none the less appreciated the video. I have a Milwaukee cordless drill that I really like but the chuck has been giving me issues (very difficult to loosen after tightening). I wanted to do something about it but wasn't aware that replacement chucks were available so it looks like I'll be heading over to ROHM for a new one.
Great tip--thank you. In return, I have one tip for you. At 5:39, you should flip the channel locks over to greatly reduce the amount of effort it takes to grip something with the channel locks. I know you know this because I saw the video you made on this topic. I learned how to properly use channel locks back in high school, some 45 years ago, so I immediately see when people are using them wrong. I'm guessing you're having a hard time breaking that old habit, huh? In either case, thanks again for the informative video on the chuck upgrade.
That's perfect for what I currently do with keyed steel chucks which is drill and tap them 1/2"-13 (using a lathe to keep things concentric) then turn my angle grinders into high speed right angle die grinders but without dragging another tool in the bucket. Thanks for the video! Many drills have inferior chucks for which these are an upgrade. Their larger cousins are popular in machine tool usage.
Thanks for this. I have a drill that needs a new chuck. Wasn’t sure where to get one.
Thanks for sharing. It is certainly worth my time.
6:47 "forward" direction is only to remove the holding/locking screw that is reverse-threaded, to remove the chuck, you need to be in the reverse direction, otherwise you'll be tightening the chuck.
Same concept at 7:43, first you need to put it in forward to put the chuck on, then in reverse to tighten the locking screw.
Thanks was impressed, how I didn’t know, excellent video thanks for you time and tip
Anyone have a link to that chuck finder? I can't seem to find that particular page.
Same 😂
Link is in the description but here it is as well: roehm.biz/chuck-up/en
I change the chuck on my craftsman heavy duty drill 20 years ago. Best upgrade I ever did to that drill. The original couldn’t handle 1/2 drill bits and didn’t hold the bits after a year of use.
can't believe i sat here for 9 min watching a video on drill chucks. good job you kept a boring subject interesting.
Q buen video gracias por la explicación 👍 saludos desde Perú
This hidden sponsorship is a bit slimy
Your ignorance is not surprising
@@ChasVS391 Your ignorance of the FTC guidelines doesn’t surprise me either.
Excelente idea
Voy a probarlo. Gracias
I’ve been a 3rd generation Carpenter for 20 years among other types of work auto mechanic steel, different types of metal work I have all types of drills and Flex is an amazing powerful machine but the chucks aren’t great I tried to change the anvil on my impact to a 3/8 socket drive with a 1/4 hex inside the 3/8 for my own versatility options and efficiency but for love of god and can’t find an anvil to fit to replace it 😂 hoping you could help being your the drill master in my opinion hope to hear from you or someone else who’s had this issue I can’t be the only one because I want to keep my Flex impact and not have to have another impact for my uses it’s more power that I need just a an anvil will do thanks
My Milwaukee chucks are awsome, never had any issues like you mentioned and replacing it with the on you mentioned would if anything be a downgrade. Tested alot of chucks and Milwaukee are simply awesome
Are you sure? I use milwaukee too and the chucks suck!
@@tracklizard4018 Which model no drill do you have?
@@v8tergt653 I've noticed it's worst on the FPD3 (2904?) but I think it might be due to the hammer functionality, though that doesn't casue issues in other drills. Mitigated with a better chuck.
This video now need updating for modern drills that do not use a screw to hold the chuck..
Se agradece el audio en español, Chevere!
good info
My Milwaukee gen 4 combi drill didn’t come with a rohm chuck. Well explained presentation.
Saudações do Brazil muito bom canal, Sobre os Chuck Rohm os Jacobs são os The Best.
My DeWalt's all have Rohm chucks, OEM, but bought upgraded Rohm chucks for the hammer function drills. Same for my drill press, only Rohm had the proper taper on a high-precision keyless chuck. Each chuck ran $100 - $150 but worth the premium.
Great stuff! Is it possible to replace a normal key chuck with a SDS chuck on any drill?
Yo tengo el DCD805XR, ese ya debe tener el mandril ROHM, y tb tengo el DCD999 FLEXVOL. 💪💪💪
I have a bit mixed feelings about the whole saga with the "locking" chucks thing tbh. The first video was just straight up wrong, where the main complaints were the spreading of misinformation and the lack of research when this information is pretty much openly available. I mean, if you call customer service youre not gonna talk to an engineer, you are gonna talk to a 20 year old who just needed a job and will say whatever makes you get off the line so they dont get yelled at for taking too long.
The second video did at least correct the wrong information, but none of the others were addressed at all. Instead choosing to focus on how well the video did and angling things as "those darn companies was wrong"
Idk it just makes me skeptical to the other things you do now, like praising a new chuck as the best thing since sliced bread, breathing new life into an old drill and whatnot? If you have a bad chuck, sure, but the rest of it sounds pretty dubious ngl. "Get into tight spaces" with the 2mm you save and what not.
And if you get to the very end of the video, he mentions its sponsored by Rohm. Not exactly up front.
Basically a commercial for Rohm. Learning better drill control will far outweigh any advantage changing a drill chuck would give, unless the chuck is severely damaged or complete junk like on china knock off.
I use the Worx drill can I upgrade the chuck? I love this little drill it's perfect for what I use it for I know it's not top of the line but I love it
Wow holy moly 💩 I actually saw the pass wobble on that chuck & the precision on the Röhm chuck
Great Video!! I have a Dewalt DCD771 1/2" (13mm) Drill Driver but its not listed on the Rohm website. What do I do? Need to replace chuck. Don't believe it has a Rohm chuck lol. Thank you!!!
And how do you identify the rohom mandreel, does it have a mark on it?
Thanks that was a great recommendation!
Does the Dewalt 999 have a Rohm?
I just looked at my Dewalt 20 volt drill. I don’t see a name on the chuck, I opened it wide enough to look inside and it doesn’t seem to have a removable bolt. What is your opinion on that?
you need to disassemble drill to put axis with chuck from gearbox, that it is simple. Originals are metal ones are Rohm, plastics are Jacobs
I've got the Makita Subcompact drill, which came with a Rohm chuck. Contrary to its reputation, this particular plastic chuck has a rather annoying ratcheting issue. It has vastly better grip than my Dewalt DCB805, but my best chuck experience was with Milwaukee
Yeah, that subcompact Chuck is my nemesis, It constantly lets go for me
My worst experience has been with Milwaukee chucks and collets.
@@jimmymac601 interesting.. My Milwaukee 12v has a metal Chuck that I find far superior to 5 plastic chucks on my dewalts
@@GageDrumssame here with both my Gen 1 and now Gen 3 M12 Fuel drills. No issues with their metal chucks. My installation driver also came with a metal chuck. Haven’t used it much though.
I guess RÖHM as well as many other brands have quality tiers among their products.
The plastic housing on that chuck is a dead giveaway that corners were cut
Que gran gran video
Great tip thanks
this is funny back in 2017 i was on the hunt on upgrading my chuck but no one talk about it , so i left the stock chuck on it but now i know what brand to get :D
Nice! I hope it helps!
@@LRN2DIY i dont see my model, i have a makita XFD10
@@CRAZCHEVBOY They have a section on their site for finding your spindle size if it's not listed: chuck-up.roehm.biz/en/instructions.html
If you have loc-tite should you use blue or red?
Great presentation! I have a Dewalt brushless that came with a terrible chuck. Gave me all kinds of problems right out of the box. I can't seem to find a fastener down inside the chuck and I've read you have to take the drill all apart to break it loose. Any experience with this?
They have purposely made it almost impossible to replace it without destroying the drill in the process. Its the same with my dewalt drill. They presumably want you to buy a new drill once the chuck gives up. If you search how to remove the chuck for the model number on youtube you'll probably find a video that shows how to do it, but its a PITA and a high chance of destroying the drill as you need to apply so much force and take the drill to bits.
a lot... you neet to disaasemble whole device, put axis out of gearbox and then you can make it ;) there ino screw, just torque and glue
I have a DCD800 Dewalt that had a terrible chuck out of the box. I took it back and exchanged it. Second one had wobble too. Decided to change it out with a Rohm. This is an "around the house" drill for me, so i settled on a method to remove the chuck. This may make you cringe, and i don't really recommend it. I chucked up a 3\8" hex bit with a 1\2" square drive into the stock chuck and stuck an impact on the bit. I had the drill in reverse at a slow speed and burped the impact. It broke free immediately and spun right off. I havent seen anyone else use that method, but it worked perfect for me. I may have to try it on a few other drill, for science of course.
@@Cpm0487 At this point, I'm willing to try this method. Thank you!!
@@Cpm0487 Hey just to clarify, I assume you removed the backwards-threaded torx before you impacted the chuck off? Tangentially related, anybody know if the 794 takes the same Rohm Extra-RV50-13 (1322451) as the rest of the DeWalts? It doesn't show up in their finder...and the OEM chuck is plastic...
I had a cheap drill chuck broke and replaced it with a dacade old chuck from a broke DeWalt I had lying around, it't a Rohm one and indeed better than the factory one :)
great video
Chuck removal tip : If the left-handed chuck screw won’t loosen, insert the hex key into the chuck and tighten the chuck tighter onto the spindle then remove the screw then remove the chuck. The purpose of the LH screw is to help keep the chuck from unscrewing when using the drill in reverse and if the chuck has unscrewed itself, it will be jammed against the screw making removal of the screw difficult.
Great video just 1 Question do u have the DCD800. Did those come with a Rohm chuck
I just bought a DeWalt DCD800 XR cordless drill. Does that have a Rohm chuck on it?
Well, you shouldn't.t ask people for the answer. If you have the drill the answer is simple. Look closely at that chuck with a magnifier glass and the word ROHM should be written on it somewhere. Simple.
Are the threads on the drill where the chuck screws on universal in size?
Didn’t even know such existed!!
Thanks
Bob
England
Thanks for watching, Bob! I hope you’ve been doing well, my friend.
@@LRN2DIY thanks matey
Years ago my favorite battery drill was a Skil Top Gun 12V. All steel transmission gears. Kinda heavy but rock solid. NiCad batteries (sealed & unserviceable) were a low point. But putting on a new keyless chuck was a game changer upgrade. I still have the drill. Finding better components isn't easy. Better than the interrupting ads inserted by Alphabet Co.
Can you upgrade to sds plus?
Thanks ! Great timing,. I have several chucks that definitely need to be replaced.
How to remove a chuck in Dewalt dcd800 drill?
Three is a rounded pin to secure a spindle.
My only idea is to drill a pin to make possible to unscrew the Chuck.
Thank you!!!!! Will be fixing two drills that I was ready to toss!!!!
Wow bery bery good Boss
After changing the head on my bosch gsr 180 with a rohm chuck it feels like a new drill loolz :) ty for this tip. I paid 30€ for the rohm chuck
I love my battery powered Dewalt Drills but my older plug in drills while still powerful give me a lot of grief because the chucks are incredibly hard to open to their full capacity and do not lock properly.
Why didn’t we know that we could replace the chucks? I’m going to check my drill models and order the appropriate chuck.
Thank you for this video.
Does anyone know if I can remove chuck on m12 gen 3 hammer drill by applying high torque application in reverse with screw removed? hex key and hummer doesn't help
Do Röhm make cheaper budget chucks? I have a drill by parkside that cost €70 as a kit and has a Röhm 13mm metal chuck on it so curious if it's the same as on pro tools
Edit: it looks identical to the extra50-RV but it's longer, like 70mm
The same chuck. The manufacturer of the Parkside drill/drivers use Rohm in their own brand and just pick their off the shelf chuck.
I've had chucks that seem to not want to give up the bit. Any chance this might help that?
It sure could. The chuck should be able to release the bit with a normal amount of backwards pressure. If it’s not doing that, it could be a chuck issue.
is there a chuck for a rotary hammer (sds plus)? my hammer bit is wabbling like crazy and its impossible to drill precision holes on there own, I use a hilti drill to predrill a small hole before I use the rotary hammer, but this isn't fun changing tools and sizes.
Which ROHM Chuck do I pick between the EXTRA80-RV and EXTRA50-RV and why, for odd jobs and mods around the house on a Dewalt DCD800E2 drill with no hammer function?
It seems that after some online pic comparison that I have on my Dewalt DCD800E2 from the factory the Jacobs flagship 8000 series metal chuck. You can tell by the design of it and by the color of the jaws vs the pics on Jacobs website. However, they make two kinds of jaws one with carbide and one with steel, and I am not sure which is the one that I have. That said, I am thinking this may be good enough for my uses and not terribly worth the upgrade to the ROHM EXTRA80-RV or ROHM EXTRA50-RV. Especially if the install is any harder than what's in this video.
If they made a 4 jaw chuck I’d buy it instantly I use drills for tapping probable half the time and I hate grinding 3 flats on the tap.
This is just a personal preference, but about 20 years ago my grandfather had about 10 ancient corded drills that all had solid steel chucks with the little gear/lever thing to tighten/loosen them. Well those drills eventually bit the dust (hes disabled from childhood polio so he spends his days either gardening or crafting) those chucks on modern drills are a combo made in heaven.
Those are called Keyed chucks. They still get plenty of use in machine shops for when a left-handed drill needs to be used. Most keyless chucks have a tendency to loosen when ran counter-clockwise.
Bosch used to make the best drills and worst chucks. So they invented SDS to solve ths. Now we have 2 options.
One of my first cordless drills was a Bosch I bought in 1988. The dealer sold me a Jacobs chuck at the time I bought it, That combo was unbeatable for years until the batteries died and I couldn't get replacements.
You mentioned batteries earlier and I was wondering if you've had any experience with the off brand 18v Ni-Cad replacements for Porter Cable tools. My impact driver is fairly old, obviously, and I'd rather not spend the price of a new driver on replacement batteries, especially since I only use it occasionally.
Thanks, W
I can’t say that I have any experience with that, but if they’re not too expensive, it might be worth a quick try.
If you have a few tools and batteries I would get a battery adapter for the porter cable and buy lithium batteries to use on them.
And a new charger & batteries porter cable maybe?
@@kristene2372That's a thought. I'll have to see what's available. Most of the lithium batteries I've seen when searching are 20v.
Thank you! W
what voltage is the old p/c ? 14.4v 18v?
@@kristene2372 18v Ni-Cad
Great Video. Will the Rohm Chuck in the Video Work on the New Gen 4 2904-20 Hammer Drill or does this Drill already have this chuck..
Thanks Allen D
Milwaukee drill sold in the US will usually have Jacobs Chucks on them.
Hey, as a German myself, I am kind of sad that you talk the entire video about the capital of Italy and not the German Company Röhm with an ö! To be honest, it is pronounced quite differently! But great Video by the way. :)
you are redeemed!
I have a Hitachi 18v hammer drill. As you know Hatachi was bought out by Matabo. The site doesn;t list Hatachi and the model number must be different than Matabo. Also there isn't any way to contact Rohm. How can I find the right chuck for my drill?
That webpage never loads properly. Cant see what chuck works with Dewalt DCD999 & what for DCD777
Since the 999 comes with a Rohm Chuck is there a better one you can get?
I own the flex turbo hammer drill FX 1271T and I noticed that you upgraded yours. Can’t seem to find this model on the Roehm website. Can you clarify which model I should buy?
On the Roehm website, use Flex PD 2G 18.0-EC HD C, it's the 18v version of the US 24 v version.
Do they have a replacement chuck for a dcd771? I can't seem to find info regarding this (from what I've learned) crap drill.
My question is if the higher end models already have a rohm chuck, if you get one from the website will it be the same as the factory one or a different better/smaller one?
It depends. From what I’ve seen with all my drills, the Rohm chuck that comes in your drills will be similar to a replacement one.
I have a couple DeWalt drills, that have no fastener. Like the DCD706. Unchangeable? Or not worth the risk of breaking the drill?
You need special tools + torque wrench and the screw is on the inside so you´ll need tear down the entire gearbox to switch chucks. It sucks, don´t do it.
How do I know if my drill has a ROHM chuck on it?
Does anyone know if the DCD796 comes with a Rohm chuck?
Great video
verry Nice
How do you know if your drill has a Rohm chuck?
Just checked my chuck spindle size was 10mm coming in both 3/8 and 1/2 inch chuck could I put the 1/2 on to fit larger bits
Weird, only AEG on the Rohm page. Was looking yo match my ridgid hammer drill.
I see though only 2 checks from all the brands and models, either the extra-rv50 or rv80 to choose from.
Performant. Nice.
yo le hice una mejora al chuck. calente un pedazo de tubo de plastico a la medida del chuck y con algo caliente le hice rombos de agarre y asi no se resbala ni desgasta el metal con el uso
I.ve got a 12V drill (by Bosch). and has a small and Lame looking chusc that can only take up to 10mm diameter drill bit. My plan si to swap it with a bigger size metal chuck that opens up to a maximum of 13mm. It would make my day !!!!