I disagree with his comments on volume and how more is better - understanding foil, concaves, rocker etc and how they affect hydrodynamics/planing is way more useful when picking a surfboard knowing your volume range is just useful to know it will float you. If your not catching waves it’s usually due to lack of wave reading skills or choosing totally the wrong type of board design for the wave
Of course, volume is just one factor. I agree that the more you understand about concaves, rocker, etc., the better you'll be able to pick a board for the conditions you're surfing.
Agreed. Understanding every dynamic of the board and how it relates to the flow of water is the most important and it’s vital for improvement. However, there are endless variables of board dynamics especially in relation to wave conditions. Ie: In 2-3 beach break, you can ride a 5’8 Twin Fin at 2 1/2” thick or a 6’0 thruster with low rocker, single concave and a subtle hip at 2 5/8 and equally have as much fun. Most intermediate surfers in the Los Angeles area need a consistent variable or a constant in an environment with so much change - ocean and surfboard design. That’s why I use volume as a on-ramp. In my opinion, done correctly, volume could lead you to exploring the best pieces of surfing as you mentioned: foil, concaves, rocker, outline, and the marriage between them experienced in different wave conditions
@@johndoe9608 100%! That's a great question. I think that's the one of the most fun pieces of problem solving with surfboard design. Trying to find the perfect combination of catching waves with easy, yet having the high performance bite to turn sharp and hard. Malibu First Point is a tricky one I like coming up with designs for, also North Shore Hawaii. Here's a good example of that: Rocky Point Hawaii on a Twin fin with side bites > Side bites for hold. The board caught waves easy, paddled great but lacked in the performance bite for me personally. I have since worked on adjusting the foil and lowering the rail line a bit to compensate: ua-cam.com/users/shortsFmJT6wF9rZg?si=PRrAq14LOYtEtu9b
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I disagree with his comments on volume and how more is better - understanding foil, concaves, rocker etc and how they affect hydrodynamics/planing is way more useful when picking a surfboard knowing your volume range is just useful to know it will float you. If your not catching waves it’s usually due to lack of wave reading skills or choosing totally the wrong type of board design for the wave
Of course, volume is just one factor. I agree that the more you understand about concaves, rocker, etc., the better you'll be able to pick a board for the conditions you're surfing.
Agreed. Understanding every dynamic of the board and how it relates to the flow of water is the most important and it’s vital for improvement. However, there are endless variables of board dynamics especially in relation to wave conditions. Ie: In 2-3 beach break, you can ride a 5’8 Twin Fin at 2 1/2” thick or a 6’0 thruster with low rocker, single concave and a subtle hip at 2 5/8 and equally have as much fun. Most intermediate surfers in the Los Angeles area need a consistent variable or a constant in an environment with so much change - ocean and surfboard design. That’s why I use volume as a on-ramp. In my opinion, done correctly, volume could lead you to exploring the best pieces of surfing as you mentioned: foil, concaves, rocker, outline, and the marriage between them experienced in different wave conditions
have you ever surfed waves that you can easily catch but can't ride properly?
@@johndoe9608 100%! That's a great question. I think that's the one of the most fun pieces of problem solving with surfboard design. Trying to find the perfect combination of catching waves with easy, yet having the high performance bite to turn sharp and hard. Malibu First Point is a tricky one I like coming up with designs for, also North Shore Hawaii. Here's a good example of that: Rocky Point Hawaii on a Twin fin with side bites > Side bites for hold. The board caught waves easy, paddled great but lacked in the performance bite for me personally. I have since worked on adjusting the foil and lowering the rail line a bit to compensate: ua-cam.com/users/shortsFmJT6wF9rZg?si=PRrAq14LOYtEtu9b