Many different types of surfers and surfing, but mainly the Jocks and the Artists. The jocks conform to the wsl and the point system and surf for judges. 99% of them, they're surfing is contrived and predictable, they pretty much all look the same, I mean even their hair cuts are that of the conformed society that's like the Hitler short hair look thing, all good if that makes them happy, after all one must be happy in what they're doing or eventually they will become down and depressed. Thee other is the Artist you can tell by what they're riding and they're appearance, they are just being their own unique finger print, just being themselves, and conforming to what THEY see best for their life, not to mention the boards they ride. Then there's the $$ thing, that really does change surfing and people, and wait there's a new one it's called clicks and "look at me! look at me!" ie: Social Media... I mean take Beefs tv or whatever lol bs. Do you really think they would be doing their circus clown act sh-t at any hard core spot if they weren't video taping for YT? I mean what a circus act! "LOOK AT ME!" *SUBSCRIBE!!!* Now if people did that on a daily basis before YT I wouldn't say a word but they didn't it's all about seeking attention. There was a time in surfing where style was everything, now most everything is an attention seeking look at me circus act trying to attain points, subscribers and clicks $$. It is what it is. Thank The Good Lord above SOMEBODY is bringing up *style!* ( Sorry long winded, but had to VENT. )
Go Pro's, Instagram, UA-cam, Covid, Sprinter Vans, Entitlement, Surfboard "Volume", Buying a surfboard on a computer or your phone, The Leash "goon cord", Lawsuits. All these things have destroyed surf tradition. It's good to vent about what has happened to surfing.
Style = flow state. That space where there is no conscience effort but a happening and connection in the moment and in this case the wave. It requires mastery. When you first start doing something, like driving a car, it requires conscience effort. Eventually the how fades into the background and it becomes a happening. That’s when the flow and style occur.
Flow and style are related but two different things in my opinion. You can have style even when your not flowing, like at the apex of a stall, waiting for the tube to get you going again. And you can Flow even when your not stylin, like Laird Hamilton flying across Peahi. Just my two cents.
Kookin' it for 20 years now, but when I see Torren Martin And Mikey February I see beauty and pure art. Sure, Medina, Ferreira and JohnJohn are beyond this world, but the former inspire me relentlessly. Happy to hear Devon mentioning those two more than once. Great channel and I'm baffled you only have 693 subscribers!
A lot of newer surfers sabotage their chance to develop style when they jump to a shorter board only after a year of surfing. Most of these beginners are so stubborn in that way that it degrades any chance to look good and smooth while performing the basics of surfing.
No talk about style makes surfing easier to understand and achived. Makes it easier to sell to the masses. This is why style is not in the wls judgment criteria.
I think what Devon gets at around 30: 30 is also what makes good live rock and roll music (the best jazz and blues too). Riding the razor’s edge - it could all come undone and turn into a pile of poop, but it hangs in there and while it does, presents the audience with a glimpse of something beyond the component parts. 😎
You can see a major correlation between cool aesthetics and enjoyment. I feel like when you have fun your “style” is apparent. Not when focus is placed on trying to look like someone. I hate seeing my wackness but I have fun. When I’m enjoying it is when Ive heard positive things from random others.
Rob Machado and Blair Conklin have the best style IMHO. I've been told I have a nice relaxed style by random surfers some were surf coaches out with students but I hate the way I look in my tiny amount of 3rd person footage. I've only been surfing 2.5 years 2-3x a week. Maybe they see potential that I can't. 🤷♂️
I could listen to Devon all day...
Brilliant guys. 🤙
i can't believe you got to fingers, but not hair
Criminally underrated channel. Thanks for all the hard work. Please keep it up.
Many different types of surfers and surfing, but mainly the Jocks and the Artists. The jocks conform to the wsl and the point system and surf for judges.
99% of them, they're surfing is contrived and predictable, they pretty much all look the same, I mean even their hair cuts are that of the conformed society that's like the Hitler short hair look thing, all good if that makes them happy, after all one must be happy in what they're doing or eventually they will become down and depressed. Thee other is the Artist you can tell by what they're riding and they're appearance, they are just being their own unique finger print, just being themselves, and conforming to what THEY see best for their life, not to mention the boards they ride.
Then there's the $$ thing, that really does change surfing and people, and wait there's a new one it's called clicks and "look at me! look at me!" ie: Social Media... I mean take Beefs tv or whatever lol bs. Do you really think they would be doing their circus clown act sh-t at any hard core spot if they weren't video taping for YT? I mean what a circus act! "LOOK AT ME!" *SUBSCRIBE!!!*
Now if people did that on a daily basis before YT I wouldn't say a word but they didn't it's all about seeking attention. There was a time in surfing where style was everything, now most everything is an attention seeking look at me circus act trying to attain points, subscribers and clicks $$.
It is what it is. Thank The Good Lord above SOMEBODY is bringing up *style!*
( Sorry long winded, but had to VENT. )
Go Pro's, Instagram, UA-cam, Covid, Sprinter Vans, Entitlement, Surfboard "Volume", Buying a surfboard on a computer or your phone, The Leash "goon cord", Lawsuits. All these things have destroyed surf tradition.
It's good to vent about what has happened to surfing.
Stephanie Gilmour has great style.
I swear I’ve listened to almost all off your podcasts and didn’t realize you were on UA-cam!! Lololo
Style = flow state. That space where there is no conscience effort but a happening and connection in the moment and in this case the wave. It requires mastery. When you first start doing something, like driving a car, it requires conscience effort. Eventually the how fades into the background and it becomes a happening. That’s when the flow and style occur.
Flow and style are related but two different things in my opinion. You can have style even when your not flowing, like at the apex of a stall, waiting for the tube to get you going again. And you can Flow even when your not stylin, like Laird Hamilton flying across Peahi. Just my two cents.
Kookin' it for 20 years now, but when I see Torren Martin And Mikey February I see beauty and pure art. Sure, Medina, Ferreira and JohnJohn are beyond this world, but the former inspire me relentlessly. Happy to hear Devon mentioning those two more than once. Great channel and I'm baffled you only have 693 subscribers!
alohaaa, Long Life
I was waiting for UA-cam format to listen with subtitles activated, better for no native english listeners.
I LOVE your Channel ❤
A lot of newer surfers sabotage their chance to develop style when they jump to a shorter board only after a year of surfing. Most of these beginners are so stubborn in that way that it degrades any chance to look good and smooth while performing the basics of surfing.
No talk about style makes surfing easier to understand and achived. Makes it easier to sell to the masses. This is why style is not in the wls judgment criteria.
Thank you so much for this!
“Speed power flow”, isn’t style the “flow” part when judging competition surfing? So it’s already being considered as a judging criteria?
This channel deserves more reach
I think what Devon gets at around 30: 30 is also what makes good live rock and roll music (the best jazz and blues too). Riding the razor’s edge - it could all come undone and turn into a pile of poop, but it hangs in there and while it does, presents the audience with a glimpse of something beyond the component parts. 😎
You can see a major correlation between cool aesthetics and enjoyment. I feel like when you have fun your “style” is apparent. Not when focus is placed on trying to look like someone. I hate seeing my wackness but I have fun. When I’m enjoying it is when Ive heard positive things from random others.
What a great conversation. Thanks guys!
10 minutes in and it’s just getting started maybe.
Rob Machado and Blair Conklin have the best style IMHO. I've been told I have a nice relaxed style by random surfers some were surf coaches out with students but I hate the way I look in my tiny amount of 3rd person footage. I've only been surfing 2.5 years 2-3x a week. Maybe they see potential that I can't. 🤷♂️