The one thing if someone has ever built a deck is to never put the Joist holders before . All wood joists have different heights and this will make your decking wavy. First mount the joists and then put the holder from beneath so it tightly supports the joist. Realized this within 5 minutes of building the deck
Must not that professional because you can't even tell that he's not even building a Deck lmfao... Everyone on here seems to be a self proclaimed ""professional"" but yet they don't even know what he's building shows how much y'all internet contractors know...@@GMSYashami
uncanny, I plan on the exact same addition did you have plans or design yourself my biggest concern is how you insulated the floor and did you build skirt. you did a fantastic job especially by yourself I don't believe anyone really appreciates the extra steps you must take without a extra hand and also( thank you and your family for their sacrifice and your service)
Really enjoyed your addition. The only thing I would do different is rent or hire a boring machine for your piers. I guess your young and I'm 68. Makes a difference ya know.
Also some board vinyl flashing behind the ledger against the house and also put a leather flashing drip cap. This is code around my area aswell. Everything else looks 👍. Well done
@@BreakFreeHomesteadeveryone thinks your building a Deck in the comments and are saying your doing it wrong cause they think or assume your building a Deck , I've been taking up for you and correcting people in the comments lol
Good video.! Enjoy watching new builds.. Going to be a great addition 👍 I would have staggered the joints for more strength and keep joints from moving. I put a 14x20 addition on our cabin a few years ago… B Deacon Manitoba Canada 🇨🇦
Hey brother. Time time get the proper hanger nails. Simpson strong tie 10d. They are designed for connectors and hangers. My inspector would fail me for that.
Only thing I was wondering, with all the great over-engineering, why not install 3 more posts in the center of the span? I know those joists are plenty strong, and I may be off here, just might've done that myself outta caution
Typically the floor joists will run the same direction as the ceiling and rafters, this is a calculation that needs to be made before you dig you footings. But nice work.
looking to cover a dye pit which is a step down about 12'' deep.... the width is 12' with concrete walls on each side and 100' in length you think ledger boards on each side with support somewhere between the 12'
I would of put three more concrete Pilar’s at center mid point just to take the weight stress off the center of platform. 14 feet is a long distance for this build. How did it pass inspection? Other than that brother, your project looks good🤙🏼💪🏼
Andy, I really don’t understand what you need, I replied with the fact that overbuilding is an avenue or you could check spans and provided a link. If you think that’s being rude I’m sorry bud. Thanks for supporting the channel!
Thanks for not attaching your beams to the side of the posts with nails like half the builders on UA-cam do! I've seen whole cabins resting on nails. Crazy.
What size nail are you using for nail gun? I'm read nails that u hammer should 3 1/2 Nail gun should be 3 1/4, but when putting 2 joist together it's only about 3 inches, I figured 3 inches makes more sense,
Heres what I don't get. I see everyone leveling out the joists at the ledger board side before installing the hangers, which makes sense, but then on the beam side they just lay the joists on the beam and attach with the straps. It seams like that end never gets leveled out like the ledger board side. Everyone must have a wavy floor/deck on one side.
Putting a 14x16 addition on my house next summer. The previous owner installed a raised brick/block wall foundation with a slab to bring it level with the back of the house so I have a good start. The slab is about 12 inches below the top of the wall so I framed it in with 2x6 to install the deck that is there now which will all be coming out. I watched most of this series so far and am going to use it as my template since the dimensions are similar and your technique looks solid. Only big difference it I am going with 2x4 and ceilingn needs to be 9 ft. It's sort of an all season room that I can use as a golf simulator room (hence the 9 ft ceiling) until I sell the house down the road. Like you I will be doing this by myself and I have some questions that I will post under each video so hope you don't mind. One I have here is, how thick was the plywood flooring, looks 3/4, and was it tongue and groove? It did not appear so. What gauge nail did you use to secure it? I assume 10D. Were they ring shank or just common nails. All looks good to me brother - best series I could find that gives me what I need. Thanks AE
Ideally, screw down the subfloor...not nails. Nails work their way back out ...screws more secure and long lasting squeakless floor. Agreed - Advantech T&G with the glue is all I use as a builder.
I showed how to find the beam height which would make the floor joist level in that video; ua-cam.com/video/XB_KFH0YPbc/v-deo.html Sometimes the joists have slight variations, getting the top the same would be the best case. where the joist stick out if theres a variation it would be easy to plane it down a bit but not so easy against the house.
don't know how to comment this project. Probably need to put flashing tape between ledger board and plywood. Joist hanger wrong size. Also installing joist hanger after installing joist ? Using nail instead Simpson strong screw? Plywood for flooring?
Hey man, curious what did you do for the floor insulation? I’m currently building on a 24x24 addition to my prefab home and I’m stuck at that point. Not sure if I should put on my plywood subfloor yet.
Since you cut your wall plate short you could beef up the 1st and last joist with an inside corner plate. 1 big or two 6" 90s. For sistering long boards you really should have a few good quick clamps and a few large squeeze clamps if you ar working alone with lengths. You missed flashing your Ledger board before you got going. Come inspections ua-cam.com/video/qJd8BXe2Oog/v-deo.html. Are you going to lock in that floor with below insulation voids and vapor barrier HVAC electrical supplies, water? drain?
The only critique i have is the way you laid your sub floor, i would have altered the joint down the center by using a shorter starter sheet and used screws nobody likes squeaky floors. But that's me your doing a great job
Nice job. I am trying to do the exact same thing (mine is 21' x 20') but I am getting flak from the city building official. Quick question for you, did you get permit and if so was there any question by the inspection dept about the materials you used? Here in Minnesota they are wanting an engineer to review and approve. Really frustrating. Mark
Thanks Mark! Yeah that will be a good size room. I did get a permit, everywhere is different but i'm assuming they are questioning the solidness of the foundation? It seems so silly that a deck with a snow load or even a covered deck with a snow load its okay but when you want to put walls up people lose their marbles. Having an engineer get involved sounds expensive. Theres data online about support for tubes and whatnot.
Someone messed up the heigh. 😌 I still have no idea where i messed it up but it ended up being exactly 1.5 inches so capping it with a 2x was perfect and might make it stronger?🤷♂️
What were you putting on top of the joist before you placed your plywood? Excellent series - truly helping with my thought process as I have to build my wife a 14x24 craft room and by have to I mean I want to. Good job so far!
That's almost certainly 'subfloor adhesive' -- major brands like Loctite, etc. will sell it and it's all some formulation of a polyurethane-based construction adhesive. If you're just flooring with common subfloor, you can just use whatever brand is on sale. Flooring systems, such as Advantech, calls out their own specific formulation and is necessary for warranty. It's not strictly required in the general case but it greatly reduces floor noise like squeaking and I wouldn't advise skipping it. Be careful though, polyurethane-based adhesives are tenacious as hell; HIGHLY advise not skipping the part advising gloves and long sleeves so you don't get it on your skin.
That was liquid nails, like peter said theres many options but all do the same thing. Thanks for suppoorting our channel and were glad to have you on this crazy build!
I just did them PT because they would be exposed to the open in the bottom, technically i guess they could be KD as they arent really that close to the ground.
Was this project ever inspected? .. How'd you get a away with not having footers .. example 12" wide by 42in deep .. other areas maybe 12to24 deep .. around the whole perimeter.
@@BreakFreeHomestead project turn out awesome, in my area this would be fine for a deck .. but not addition. Do you have any update videos on how the final inside turns out ? What was the space used for in the end ?
If I’m using this same layout for a deck? I see that you used 2x10s could I use 2x8 and have the same 40lb load? And same stability? Or do I need 2x10 being a 14x14?
You’d have to check the spans for the #pine you’re using. You can see what simpson strong tie tells you for the load www.strongtie.com/products/go/software/deckplanner
@@alexanderson-is9nh I believe so, they dont look like 2x8's. I just went back and looked at my simpson deck planner and it said 2x8. Probably just wanted to beef it up for more stiffness.
Hmm super hard to say hours wise. Over 1 year i renovated our kitchen, floors in the first floor, done the addition, worked a full time job, other peoples projects, youtube, winter, and 4 kids sports and all i need to do is the siding. SO depends on how ambitious you are.
THESE RESOURCES ARE GREAT FOR YOU TO FIGURE OUT YOUR FRAMING;
www.southernpine.com/span-tables/
www.strongtie.com/products/go/software/deckplanner
I must say, You did a wonderful job by yourself. You made me believe I can do it too. Thanks
Thanks Jeff, You got this! Cant wait to see the results. 💪
Very nice job, a lot ,very secure you did a wonderful job🙏😀💕💯!! Thank you.
Dx
F
The one thing if someone has ever built a deck is to never put the Joist holders before . All wood joists have different heights and this will make your decking wavy. First mount the joists and then put the holder from beneath so it tightly supports the joist. Realized this within 5 minutes of building the deck
As a professional deck builder. You should be able to put your hangers first. Just need to measure the spacing correct. And not be a dumbass.
Must not that professional because you can't even tell that he's not even building a Deck lmfao... Everyone on here seems to be a self proclaimed ""professional"" but yet they don't even know what he's building shows how much y'all internet contractors know...@@GMSYashami
He installed the concealed hangers. The fasteners are hidden. Impossible to install after
uncanny, I plan on the exact same addition did you have plans or design yourself my biggest concern is how you insulated the floor and did you build skirt. you did a fantastic job especially by yourself I don't believe anyone really appreciates the extra steps you must take without a extra hand and also( thank you and your family for their sacrifice and your service)
Really enjoyed your addition. The only thing I would do different is rent or hire a boring machine for your piers. I guess your young and I'm 68. Makes a difference ya know.
You did awsome job bro we are going to addition almost same 16x14 , Thank you for share your experince God bless you & your family
Thanks!🤘 Get it! So fulfilling.
I had a guy do add on the ply board wasn't like urs it has alot of red flags so I had to remove all ply board.this will help out alot.thxs.
love your rear garden that it backs onto woods
Thanks Daniel! Its nice to have a little bit of privacy.
Absolutely Beautiful !!!
Thank you so much!
Stager your floor sheathing joints for better strength and so the cracks between don’t open up. This also comply with code.
Also some board vinyl flashing behind the ledger against the house and also put a leather flashing drip cap. This is code around my area aswell. Everything else looks 👍. Well done
Ledger not leather.
I didn't but the flashing behind the ledger because it would be interior anyway, are you talking about as if it were a deck? Maybe im confused.
Yes. Your right. I would think the same. But for some reason around my area it is code
@@BreakFreeHomesteadeveryone thinks your building a Deck in the comments and are saying your doing it wrong cause they think or assume your building a Deck , I've been taking up for you and correcting people in the comments lol
excellent work 👍👍👌
Thank You!!
In Canada we use joist hanger nails not normal nails in a nail gun.
I probably should have used joist hanger nails through. ☝️
@@BreakFreeHomestead
A Teco nailer is what you want.
Not just in Canada, but anywhere with a building code.
Really nice work!
Thanks danny, you're the man!
Don’t be afraid to use quick clamps when you work alone! They can be a great “second” pair of hands.
Good video.! Enjoy watching new builds.. Going to be a great addition 👍 I would have staggered the joints for more strength and keep joints from moving. I put a 14x20 addition on our cabin a few years ago… B Deacon Manitoba Canada 🇨🇦
Nice! Always satisfying to build your own stuff! 💪 Thanks, yes next time i would stager for sure.
Nice video!!!
Good work.
Thanks Donald! 💪💪💪
Nice!
Mama still got the moves…..
Hey brother. Time time get the proper hanger nails. Simpson strong tie 10d. They are designed for connectors and hangers. My inspector would fail me for that.
Next time not time time
For sure! They were a little funky.
Invest in a set of good clamps went you work alone, it’s a life saver
Bro I have a metal roof and I add on rafters to my existing metal by screwing wood into my existing roof to build rafters without cutting anything out
Only thing I was wondering, with all the great over-engineering, why not install 3 more posts in the center of the span? I know those joists are plenty strong, and I may be off here, just might've done that myself outta caution
You could go either way. I see your point though.
@@BreakFreeHomestead right? Idk something in me was like "maybe" about that! But again, really great work man! Thanks for the reply
Typically the floor joists will run the same direction as the ceiling and rafters, this is a calculation that needs to be made before you dig you footings. But nice work.
Great video just subscribed keep up the great work 👍✅👍
Thanks! Appreciate the support! 🤙🤙
me too like his work...I SUBSCRIBED AS WELL...👍🏼👍🏼
Good job!!
Thank Jeff!
looking to cover a dye pit which is a step down about 12'' deep.... the width is 12' with concrete walls on each side and 100' in length you think ledger boards on each side with support somewhere between the 12'
Thanks for the support! 🤘🤘
I would of put three more concrete Pilar’s at center mid point just to take the weight stress off the center of platform. 14 feet is a long distance for this build.
How did it pass inspection?
Other than that brother, your project looks good🤙🏼💪🏼
What a goofy comment. You’re always welcome to overbuild or you could do some research. images.app.goo.gl/jS7NGvFpfJkZVWPG8
@@tonelessbod 🤙🤙🤙
Andy, I really don’t understand what you need, I replied with the fact that overbuilding is an avenue or you could check spans and provided a link. If you think that’s being rude I’m sorry bud. Thanks for supporting the channel!
You pay my bills big dog.
How long did this project take from Start to Floor fully framed?
Thanks for not attaching your beams to the side of the posts with nails like half the builders on UA-cam do! I've seen whole cabins resting on nails. Crazy.
Nice job.
Thanks!
Good job brotha
Thank You!!
U and ur wife are very inspirational doing these diy projects..it really gives my wife and i alot confidence...keep up the good work brotha!!!
Great video
What size nail are you using for nail gun?
I'm read nails that u hammer should 3 1/2
Nail gun should be 3 1/4, but when putting 2 joist together it's only about 3 inches, I figured 3 inches makes more sense,
Just 3 inch ring shank galvanized.
Heres what I don't get. I see everyone leveling out the joists at the ledger board side before installing the hangers, which makes sense, but then on the beam side they just lay the joists on the beam and attach with the straps. It seams like that end never gets leveled out like the ledger board side. Everyone must have a wavy floor/deck on one side.
Should have started on the other end with the plywood so the seams were staggered
I agree.
Putting a 14x16 addition on my house next summer. The previous owner installed a raised brick/block wall foundation with a slab to bring it level with the back of the house so I have a good start. The slab is about 12 inches below the top of the wall so I framed it in with 2x6 to install the deck that is there now which will all be coming out. I watched most of this series so far and am going to use it as my template since the dimensions are similar and your technique looks solid. Only big difference it I am going with 2x4 and ceilingn needs to be 9 ft. It's sort of an all season room that I can use as a golf simulator room (hence the 9 ft ceiling) until I sell the house down the road. Like you I will be doing this by myself and I have some questions that I will post under each video so hope you don't mind. One I have here is, how thick was the plywood flooring, looks 3/4, and was it tongue and groove? It did not appear so. What gauge nail did you use to secure it? I assume 10D. Were they ring shank or just common nails. All looks good to me brother - best series I could find that gives me what I need. Thanks AE
Ideally, screw down the subfloor...not nails. Nails work their way back out ...screws more secure and long lasting squeakless floor. Agreed - Advantech T&G with the glue is all I use as a builder.
Thanks for the support al, it was 3/4. We used 2.5 ring shank nails with the liquid nails. It was not tongue and grove.
Is that span acceptable for those joists. Would love to know the size of those footers and the spacing if it’s good to go
what made you decide what size to make the addition
I’m a novice building my first 12x16 Platform, for a wall tent, question why did you double up on the outside rim joist? Thank you
Hangers on overhangs should be installed upside down.
Was the bearing beam to short? Noticed you added 2x4s on top of the beam?
You left out leveling, ?, did not see it, I was confused about joist hangers "later",pleas explain how that works. Thank you Ron
I showed how to find the beam height which would make the floor joist level in that video; ua-cam.com/video/XB_KFH0YPbc/v-deo.html
Sometimes the joists have slight variations, getting the top the same would be the best case. where the joist stick out if theres a variation it would be easy to plane it down a bit but not so easy against the house.
Отлично 👍
don't know how to comment this project. Probably need to put flashing tape between ledger board and plywood. Joist hanger wrong size. Also installing joist hanger after installing joist ? Using nail instead Simpson strong screw? Plywood for flooring?
Its for an addition, the joist hangers were installed correctly, should have used joist hanger nails for short sides. Plywood for flooring was fine.
Make sure you check our 14x14 Home addition Playlist;
ua-cam.com/play/PLpFnPv0S_lFt_OJKpV4BHIdVedoTYd388.html
Should have probably staggered your plywood sheets.
True! Next time!
Always
Yes always floor, roof and on the side of the house, it adds strength 💪
With a variance of heights on joists how does that affect deck boards at the beam location as the joists sit on top of the beam?
You could shim it up, or notch it down need be.
Nice video. Just curious what made you decide to double up the end joists?
its under a wall, it needs to be.
you canter levered the end. will it be strong enough for the outside building wall?
Yes, the cantilever is less than 18 inches, and the load from the roof is going to the sides not the end.
Are you using regular 3” hot dip nail to fasten the hangers? I thought code requires sds screw or 16d penny nails?
Yeah, i would not use them again 😂 Use the joist hanger nails and longer when angling.
Hey man, curious what did you do for the floor insulation? I’m currently building on a 24x24 addition to my prefab home and I’m stuck at that point. Not sure if I should put on my plywood subfloor yet.
Hey sorry, we used foam it green.
ua-cam.com/video/wEdIQHlWiqY/v-deo.html
Is that just a regular framing gun or a PPN? Seriously impressed if you hit center mass of joist hanger holes with a basic framing gun.
Just a regular framer 🤪
so when did you check for square?
Plywood joints should have been staggered for more strength.
Since you cut your wall plate short you could beef up the 1st and last joist with an inside corner plate. 1 big or two 6" 90s. For sistering long boards you really should have a few good quick clamps and a few large squeeze clamps if you ar working alone with lengths. You missed flashing your Ledger board before you got going. Come inspections ua-cam.com/video/qJd8BXe2Oog/v-deo.html. Are you going to lock in that floor with below insulation voids and vapor barrier HVAC electrical supplies, water? drain?
Did you flash behind your ledger. Great job though man.
Thank! No i did not because it wouldn't be exposed to the elements anyway. If you were building a deck then for sure.
The 2x10 joists are never a consistent width. Just laying them on the outer support beam will make uneven floor support won’t it?
It all depends, usually if they’re from the same batch they’re pretty darn close.
Did you install flashing in between the wood and the house?
Nope, there's no point
when do you add the floor insulation?
We went with closed cell spray foam after the fact;
Heres the video on that,
ua-cam.com/video/VdHkW-1C1Ko/v-deo.html
The only critique i have is the way you laid your sub floor, i would have altered the joint down the center by using a shorter starter sheet and used screws nobody likes squeaky floors. But that's me your doing a great job
Yes, next time i would offset them. These were ringshank i believe and i glued the subfloor, so no squeaks here 💪💪
Nice job. I am trying to do the exact same thing (mine is 21' x 20') but I am getting flak from the city building official. Quick question for you, did you get permit and if so was there any question by the inspection dept about the materials you used? Here in Minnesota they are wanting an engineer to review and approve. Really frustrating. Mark
Thanks Mark! Yeah that will be a good size room. I did get a permit, everywhere is different but i'm assuming they are questioning the solidness of the foundation? It seems so silly that a deck with a snow load or even a covered deck with a snow load its okay but when you want to put walls up people lose their marbles. Having an engineer get involved sounds expensive. Theres data online about support for tubes and whatnot.
That doubler took ages. So did loading the gun. Not stair stepping sheets!?!
Thanks Mikey 🤙
Why the double rim boards?
I keep getting a lot of practical tips! I noticed that you added a top cap piece of lumber to your beam. Curious as to why that was added. Thanks!
Someone messed up the heigh. 😌 I still have no idea where i messed it up but it ended up being exactly 1.5 inches so capping it with a 2x was perfect and might make it stronger?🤷♂️
Do the crowns go up or down for the floor
crown up, this illustration is obviously a little severe;images.app.goo.gl/HaYpbkPW3aMM2pM59
What were you putting on top of the joist before you placed your plywood? Excellent series - truly helping with my thought process as I have to build my wife a 14x24 craft room and by have to I mean I want to. Good job so far!
That's almost certainly 'subfloor adhesive' -- major brands like Loctite, etc. will sell it and it's all some formulation of a polyurethane-based construction adhesive. If you're just flooring with common subfloor, you can just use whatever brand is on sale. Flooring systems, such as Advantech, calls out their own specific formulation and is necessary for warranty. It's not strictly required in the general case but it greatly reduces floor noise like squeaking and I wouldn't advise skipping it. Be careful though, polyurethane-based adhesives are tenacious as hell; HIGHLY advise not skipping the part advising gloves and long sleeves so you don't get it on your skin.
That was liquid nails, like peter said theres many options but all do the same thing. Thanks for suppoorting our channel and were glad to have you on this crazy build!
Save yourself some work. Get rid of the wife. You won’t have to build an addition afterwards
Nice video by chance did you ever consider engineered floor truss for the joist?
Thanks Josh, no i never did. It would have cost a bunch more, and the span was well within tolerance for this one beam.
The floor joists are outside. They would rot fast.
question are the floor joist pressure treated?
yes!
Thank you for sharing, great job. Did I read correctly that your concrete posts are 4 feet deep?
Thanks for the support Ales, yes they are!
@@BreakFreeHomestead Thank you.
I thought this was for a deck. Do I need to do the same for just a deck? Like the size of the joist and things like that?
Yes that would be fine.
Great video......question if I'm building a room 14x14 what size of 2x6 do I get for the floor????? 14 feet or 16 feet?????
You could get a 14’ mine was just under 15’ out
@@BreakFreeHomestead thx...
Hi boss, I noticed on top of the beams, you put a top plate of 2x6? Why?
Somehow I was 1.5 inches off 🤨
Can I use this same set up for building a deck minus the sheathing ?
Yes!
This probably a dumb question but are all your joist PS? Since it will not be exposed to weather bc it’s a covered addition?
I just did them PT because they would be exposed to the open in the bottom, technically i guess they could be KD as they arent really that close to the ground.
Was this project ever inspected? .. How'd you get a away with not having footers .. example 12" wide by 42in deep .. other areas maybe 12to24 deep .. around the whole perimeter.
Yes, our region calls for 48” deep. It was the span and cantaliver was calculated for the dead and live load.
@@BreakFreeHomestead project turn out awesome, in my area this would be fine for a deck .. but not addition. Do you have any update videos on how the final inside turns out ? What was the space used for in the end ?
I see you put a 2x6 flat on top of your beam? I must have missed that in the beam video. Was that to prevent water getting in between beam boards?
Yeah, i just left that out, not sure why. I missed the height by exactly 1.5 inches 😂😂😂
@@BreakFreeHomestead weird how that works 😂
I'm going to build a 14x14 storage shed. I see you used 2x10s. Would 2x6 be sturdy enough since there won't be foot traffic all the time?
You could do it, it's going to get messed up, www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SPtable2_060113.pdf
You cant get away with anything less than a 2x10
@@BreakFreeHomestead Thanks for that info. Keep those videos coming!
Why only one hanger in corners instead of 2 2x10 strong tie hangers?
Afterthought and learning, i would go with the double.
So is that ledger nailed into the the house or concrete?
The house, but ledger loked also.
Why did you install joist hangers after all joists were up?
So the tops were all flush since the dimensions of the wood can fluctuate pretty good from piece to piece.
Are the floor joist treated?
Yeah, just because it was open to the elements, don't think it necessarily had to be.
Are those posts too short? Will they split? Seeing varied info online.
I haven't had any issues.
Did you insulate the floor? If so, how?
We did, after the fact with a closed cell spray foam kit, check it out here;
ua-cam.com/video/wEdIQHlWiqY/v-deo.html
Thanks so much. That didn't look like fun.
Hi, at what distance are the 12s placed apart?
16"
@@BreakFreeHomestead thks!
What is the logic for the 2 x 4 on top of the beam?
Somehow I was off 1.5 inches 👀👀
@@BreakFreeHomestead ..it happens
What did you use for foundation?
We used sonatubes Pouring Concrete Piers Using Sonotubes ||14x14 Home Addition||
ua-cam.com/video/IF01dbZRlw4/v-deo.html
What is the size of lumber are you using? 2x8 or 2x10
No underfloor insulation?
We spray foamed after, there’s a video in our playlist
How many feet is the collum away from the foundation of the house, how deep and is it standing on top of a footing?
Its about 12 feet from the house, they are 12" sonotubes 48" deep.
@@BreakFreeHomestead It's a great job you're doing and helps me get started on extended my house farther back.
If I’m using this same layout for a deck? I see that you used 2x10s could I use 2x8 and have the same 40lb load? And same stability? Or do I need 2x10 being a 14x14?
You’d have to check the spans for the #pine you’re using.
You can see what simpson strong tie tells you for the load
www.strongtie.com/products/go/software/deckplanner
You used 2x 10 correct?
@@alexanderson-is9nh I believe so, they dont look like 2x8's. I just went back and looked at my simpson deck planner and it said 2x8. Probably just wanted to beef it up for more stiffness.
Will you put any insulation underneath?
I put some spray foam insulation underneath it! Don't want to freezer this winter 😂
ua-cam.com/video/wEdIQHlWiqY/v-deo.html
What size joist did u use for the flooring
2x10
@@BreakFreeHomestead thanks brotha
What did the lumber run ya.. if you dont mind tell'in :)
Too much in 2021 😂
Why is the double board around?
Just for a mailer under the wall framing.
@@BreakFreeHomestead ahh makes sense. Thank you! And keep those videos coming.
Awesome job!! What air compressor and nail gun did you use?
Metabo, amzn.to/3rODZJ6
Thank You!!!
What would you say estimated time spent on this part of the project was
Hmm super hard to say hours wise. Over 1 year i renovated our kitchen, floors in the first floor, done the addition, worked a full time job, other peoples projects, youtube, winter, and 4 kids sports and all i need to do is the siding. SO depends on how ambitious you are.
Why not concrete fundation instead of wood?
We went with wood because we wanted it at the same level as the house, it would have increased the cost by 3 times to have a matching basement poured.