Appreciate the detailed tutorial however I was also expecting to see the installation/wiring, etc of the external pump as implied in the title "EFI Internal Pump Fuel Tank to External Pump Conversion".
So I'm in the process of running this similar set up, I'll be using my return line with mines, what is the purpose for the sock part you placed on the inside, is used as a block off?
The sock is a pre-filter. You see them on almost all fuel tank feed lines. Basically it is there to prevent drawing in large pieces of garbage into the line before the pump. The one used in the video normally attaches to the fuel pump.
I've got an early 2000 Lincoln - Ford Vehicle that has the Fuel Pump in the Gas tank. The Fuel pump quit all at once driving the speed limit on the expressway. Now, I've got to get it repaired. I'm wondering, is there a way to Quick, Easy Install an Electric fuel pump on this type of Vehicle, instead of dropping the Gas tank and installing the Traditional Fuel Pump in the Gas Tank? Fords, Lincoln Cars of this era have this problem. I'm wondering if there was an easier, quicker Work-Around to this Repair. Your Project looked workable and Fun, hope it worked out for you! New Sub,,, Thanks!
I got a 96 Toyota Tacoma I want to put an external electric fuel pump on the frame rail can I do it I had a 94 Ford Ranger put a 302 in it and put one on the frame rail of it it was a Hurst fuel pump turn the key on you hear the pump pump up and then it start right up but this is throttle body injection so does it make any difference
As long as you hook up the wires going to your external pump the same as they were on the internal, it should be no problem, all you are doing is putting the pump outside of the tank, j/s
I have a 91 GMC K1500. Someone already did a motor swap and eliminated the computer. The problem I'm having is sometimes I lose power to my fuel pump. I've replaced everything but the computer, and it's still doing it. I think even with the computer eliminated, the power from the fuel pump still goes through the computer. It probably has a bad ground in the computer. So instead of messing around with it any longer, I'm going to do what you did. My question is, my charcoal canister has been removed, can I install a 7psi electric pump, with a fuel regulator, and not have the charcoal canister, and the return line hooked up? I think they have the return line hooked into a "T" fitting behind the engine, so I might use it if it works.
@IndyColtFan420 It has been 9 months since posting your comment, but first, 4-5PSI are what carb's run on, but the return, that depends on the brand. I have repaired vehicles since late 60's or early 70's when it became serious but never used, added a fuel pressure regulator. I would expect they want the un-used fuel dumped into the tank. I would not like to stress a regulator every minute the engine is running. Out of the tank, it should run thru a filter, the an electric fuel pump. Many will use a second filter after the pump if frame mounted. The number on killer of electric fuel pump is the 20-40 micron trash in the tank. Hope it's not rusted and get eyes on that. Dust, dirt and nasty stuff comes from the gas stations and distributor who brings a mix of 8% ethanol and gas refined to anti knock value of 87. The in tank sock turns yellow, stained from gas, but black or real dark brown not so much. As long as you rubber hose is stamped "Fuel" then use it. No fancy AN-6 connectors and corbin hose clamps work great (Round Spring Flat Ones" worn clamps are ok but chew up the outer rubber coating. If you have a canister use it. The activated carbon granules hold 600 times their weight in hydrocarbons. They are filled about 1/2 during refueling and it a solenoid to engine vacuum (Purge) is opened while at highway speed, at temp and off idle, the fresh air drawn in via the vent burn the expensive stuff you paid for. (Fuel Pump) We know on GM's the energize for 2 seconds, shut off. I don't know what you have but the ECM provides ground to the fuel pump relay for this. It controls purge also. Poor connections at the relay, bad relay or body harness are all suspects. The sender has a ground terminal for the sending unit but also is the same for the pump. Using a digital multi meter (DMM) can measure battery at the tank connector, but 7 amps is normal for most fuel pumps. Now many DMM can measure 10-15 or higher. Fuses can be replaced inside if damaged. But an inductive amp clamp is handy, this will show what's going on, lab scopes hooked up let's you "See" the activity. The amps, number of commutator plates and you can even calculate the speed. Fuel pump amperage is not in any Factory service manual, but if you test 600 to 700 of them, you start remember. Voltage drop can be done as it is easy, quick and never lies. You just have to hooked into the beginning and the end of the circuit and turn it on or basically have current flowing thru it (The Circuit). If voltage loss is high, over 0.400 volts, then move one connection closer to eliminate a connector or length of wire. If it drops (0.400 volts drop to 0.058 volts) stop, then go back to find the resistance in the circuit. It is like having a garden hose on, then mail man stops his truck tire on top of the hose. It goes from a 7 foot spay to a 7 inch trickle. Their are good videos on the subject and may give additional help to see it done. Hope this helps. DK, ASE Master Tech since 78.
Nice work! 👏
Appreciate the detailed tutorial however I was also expecting to see the installation/wiring, etc of the external pump as implied in the title "EFI Internal Pump Fuel Tank to External Pump Conversion".
it might just be going to a mechanical pump on the engine. i might be wrong.
So I'm in the process of running this similar set up, I'll be using my return line with mines, what is the purpose for the sock part you placed on the inside, is used as a block off?
The sock is a pre-filter. You see them on almost all fuel tank feed lines. Basically it is there to prevent drawing in large pieces of garbage into the line before the pump. The one used in the video normally attaches to the fuel pump.
I've got an early 2000 Lincoln - Ford Vehicle that has the Fuel Pump in the Gas tank. The Fuel pump quit all at once driving the speed limit on the expressway. Now, I've got to get it repaired. I'm wondering, is there a way to Quick, Easy Install an Electric fuel pump on this type of Vehicle, instead of dropping the Gas tank and installing the Traditional Fuel Pump in the Gas Tank? Fords, Lincoln Cars of this era have this problem. I'm wondering if there was an easier, quicker Work-Around to this Repair. Your Project looked workable and Fun, hope it worked out for you! New Sub,,, Thanks!
What is the fourth line for on the fuel pump
I got a 96 Toyota Tacoma I want to put an external electric fuel pump on the frame rail can I do it I had a 94 Ford Ranger put a 302 in it and put one on the frame rail of it it was a Hurst fuel pump turn the key on you hear the pump pump up and then it start right up but this is throttle body injection so does it make any difference
As long as you hook up the wires going to your external pump the same as they were on the internal, it should be no problem, all you are doing is putting the pump outside of the tank, j/s
I have a 91 GMC K1500. Someone already did a motor swap and eliminated the computer. The problem I'm having is sometimes I lose power to my fuel pump. I've replaced everything but the computer, and it's still doing it. I think even with the computer eliminated, the power from the fuel pump still goes through the computer. It probably has a bad ground in the computer. So instead of messing around with it any longer, I'm going to do what you did. My question is, my charcoal canister has been removed, can I install a 7psi electric pump, with a fuel regulator, and not have the charcoal canister, and the return line hooked up? I think they have the return line hooked into a "T" fitting behind the engine, so I might use it if it works.
@IndyColtFan420 It has been 9 months since posting your comment, but first, 4-5PSI are what carb's run on, but the return, that depends on the brand. I have repaired vehicles since late 60's or early 70's when it became serious but never used, added a fuel pressure regulator. I would expect they want the un-used fuel dumped into the tank. I would not like to stress a regulator every minute the engine is running. Out of the tank, it should run thru a filter, the an electric fuel pump. Many will use a second filter after the pump if frame mounted. The number on killer of electric fuel pump is the 20-40 micron trash in the tank. Hope it's not rusted and get eyes on that. Dust, dirt and nasty stuff comes from the gas stations and distributor who brings a mix of 8% ethanol and gas refined to anti knock value of 87.
The in tank sock turns yellow, stained from gas, but black or real dark brown not so much. As long as you rubber hose is stamped "Fuel" then use it. No fancy AN-6 connectors and corbin hose clamps work great (Round Spring Flat Ones" worn clamps are ok but chew up the outer rubber coating. If you have a canister use it. The activated carbon granules hold 600 times their weight in hydrocarbons. They are filled about 1/2 during refueling and it a solenoid to engine vacuum (Purge) is opened while at highway speed, at temp and off idle, the fresh air drawn in via the vent burn the expensive stuff you paid for.
(Fuel Pump) We know on GM's the energize for 2 seconds, shut off. I don't know what you have but the ECM provides ground to the fuel pump relay for this. It controls purge also. Poor connections at the relay, bad relay or body harness are all suspects. The sender has a ground terminal for the sending unit but also is the same for the pump. Using a digital multi meter (DMM) can measure battery at the tank connector, but 7 amps is normal for most fuel pumps. Now many DMM can measure 10-15 or higher. Fuses can be replaced inside if damaged. But an inductive amp clamp is handy, this will show what's going on, lab scopes hooked up let's you "See" the activity. The amps, number of commutator plates and you can even calculate the speed. Fuel pump amperage is not in any Factory service manual, but if you test 600 to 700 of them, you start remember. Voltage drop can be done as it is easy, quick and never lies. You just have to hooked into the beginning and the end of the circuit and turn it on or basically have current flowing thru it (The Circuit).
If voltage loss is high, over 0.400 volts, then move one connection closer to eliminate a connector or length of wire. If it drops (0.400 volts drop to 0.058 volts) stop, then go back to find the resistance in the circuit. It is like having a garden hose on, then mail man stops his truck tire on top of the hose. It goes from a 7 foot spay to a 7 inch trickle. Their are good videos on the subject and may give additional help to see it done.
Hope this helps.
DK, ASE Master Tech since 78.
@@deankay4434 Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and put an external fuel pump in it, and I haven't had any problems since.