Very interesting. As an owner, doing occasional repairs, the advantage I see to the old-style butyl tape is I can keep a roll on hand and use just what I need.
I'm searching through videos on use of butyl tape and dicor sealants for redoing an older RV window that caused a leak in the RV wall. Problem is when I've provided the Hehr window label as asked by 3 different national companies to ID the glazes and the mullions they drop me. I mean one moment they ask for the label and I provide it and even photos of the glaze rubber ends too and they choke on the mullion ID's. There are 3 windows all with identical sealing rubbers and so I've got the Glaze ID'd we are pretty sure but the mullion or horizontal mullion that crosses the entire upper fixed window is the problem. One window is clearly damaged with about 3-4 inches nibbled away on one end and less than an inch on the other. I've never taken an entire window apart before. We have a window company in town who said they would reglaze and rebuild our windows but we must provide the rubber gaskets/seals etc. for the job. And no they won't take a window apart and leave it about their warehouse in a box so we can strip out a piece of the rubber to ID. So we are off to plan B or C. We intend to order the glazes which of course go all the way around exterior frame of the window. And it runs from 2.45 one company to 6.60 a foot another even had an estimate of 8 per foot by a fourth and we crossed them off right away. So we need 47 feet so it's not cheap to order and make a mistake and get stuck with it. Meantime that's half the issue. The reason the main window leaked was the seals long ago failed. Also it appears someone attempted to smear silicone around the exterior windows frame seams but with little used and of course is not compatible with butyl products and never holds up as well for water proofing. Plan B means cleaning both RV and window itself off well and wipe down with goo gone and maybe alcohol too after scraping all bits off you can find. I have two different Dicor products both vertical and horizontal caulking. I think after watching your video today I will stick with a double layer of butyl tape around the window frame to seal tightly. I may add a seam of dicor or clear caulking I think dicor may make one. Not sure but for now the issue with the windows of course is they are both vertical and horizontal and I'd have to switch out the caulking as I went around the window. Also I'm afraid the caulk would be a bit runny and not as thick as I might need. I'll pick a cooler day to apply the tape but also keep in the fridge/freezer if need be to help with that. I also am looking for a water proof paint on or tape to run around the approx 2" opening and thickness of the RV wall where the window slips in. This is to prevent any possible water entering into the wall again even if the window seals were ever to fail the water would have to run inside down a wall where you would see it quicker and not be hidden inside the wall. We bought this RV and seller appears to have known about this huge issue but sold it in Feb below freezing temps to hide the mildew scent plus choose a night time showing which also helped to hide many flaws. I've repaired one water damage under the fresh water tank but am still working on repairs of the wall beneath the window where it was in the wall down to the floor. Not as smelly but a harder to fix mess. I've never done anything like this but my husband is agreeing with me on how I'm approaching it. We have never owned an RV and it's a small 22 year old which if had been shown some care would have been great still but instead they neglected her and in that it became down right abuse. Her bones however are solid her engine good and once I make the repairs she'll be a great Class B+ again. Meantime the biggest problem is not in repairing the wall which I'm doing a great job of it's wanting to rebuild the windows including the interior mullion and hitting the same wall over and over. Today I'm onto plan B and ordering the 47 feet of outside glaze rubbers and looking for something to seal off the one window with damage to the horizontal mullion even though tape would prevent the slide and screen from opening. I've got to get these windows back in and water tight soon. Thank you and everyone for showing us how to handle these products and how they perform too. Great feedback so we get the idea before we make a mess on our own. Or maybe we still make a mess but at least we've got some idea in advance what to expect. Kudo's and happy camping everyone.
I have laid down a NEW EDPM unsealed rubber roof I need to install the roof vents with butyl tape and dicor sealant. However I’m plan to use Flexseal liquid on the whole roof. Which order? suggestions? can you guide me? Thanks .😢
Do you think this product would be good to cover exposed nailheads on roof as opposed to many roofing caulks that dries up and shrinks on a hot Texas roof?
3D Print parts that are bomb proof, Uv proof, and will last 1000 years. It’s pretty cheap kompared to the junk they sell at RV stores. Then use the marine grade adhesive the trailer will fall apart before the vents ever show signs of wear. I still haven’t figured out why ppl want to transport piss and krap in a liquid soup 🥣 only to burn more fuel….. toilets and showers take up spase as well and water destroys the inside of trailers / RVs.
@@theMekanik Agreed, the first thing I did to my rig was install a marine composting toilet, and it's still the best upgrade we've done. I think I saw your comments on another video; would you recommend 3M's UV 4000 for this type of install? And would you totally ditch the self leveling Dicor?
Butyl caulk is very messy has a tendency to move due to heat, plus if you ever need to redo something it is a huge pain to clean. I use butyl tape for sealing everything on a camper/rv. Watch that you get butyl tape and not putty tape. Putty tape doesn't hold up as well.
The acids in silicone reacts with aluminum, not recommended on RV's! Also butyl stays sticky a lot longer and allows more movement, perfect for a moving vehicle, vibrations and flexing.
Very interesting. As an owner, doing occasional repairs, the advantage I see to the old-style butyl tape is I can keep a roll on hand and use just what I need.
Thank you so much, I actually just learned how to use the lap sealant as you showed it.
Thank you! I’m glad to hear our content is helpful.
Love your ongoing videos & tips!😊
Thank you so much!
I'm searching through videos on use of butyl tape and dicor sealants for redoing an older RV window that caused a leak in the RV wall. Problem is when I've provided the Hehr window label as asked by 3 different national companies to ID the glazes and the mullions they drop me. I mean one moment they ask for the label and I provide it and even photos of the glaze rubber ends too and they choke on the mullion ID's. There are 3 windows all with identical sealing rubbers and so I've got the Glaze ID'd we are pretty sure but the mullion or horizontal mullion that crosses the entire upper fixed window is the problem. One window is clearly damaged with about 3-4 inches nibbled away on one end and less than an inch on the other. I've never taken an entire window apart before. We have a window company in town who said they would reglaze and rebuild our windows but we must provide the rubber gaskets/seals etc. for the job. And no they won't take a window apart and leave it about their warehouse in a box so we can strip out a piece of the rubber to ID. So we are off to plan B or C. We intend to order the glazes which of course go all the way around exterior frame of the window. And it runs from 2.45 one company to 6.60 a foot another even had an estimate of 8 per foot by a fourth and we crossed them off right away. So we need 47 feet so it's not cheap to order and make a mistake and get stuck with it. Meantime that's half the issue. The reason the main window leaked was the seals long ago failed. Also it appears someone attempted to smear silicone around the exterior windows frame seams but with little used and of course is not compatible with butyl products and never holds up as well for water proofing. Plan B means cleaning both RV and window itself off well and wipe down with goo gone and maybe alcohol too after scraping all bits off you can find. I have two different Dicor products both vertical and horizontal caulking. I think after watching your video today I will stick with a double layer of butyl tape around the window frame to seal tightly. I may add a seam of dicor or clear caulking I think dicor may make one. Not sure but for now the issue with the windows of course is they are both vertical and horizontal and I'd have to switch out the caulking as I went around the window. Also I'm afraid the caulk would be a bit runny and not as thick as I might need. I'll pick a cooler day to apply the tape but also keep in the fridge/freezer if need be to help with that. I also am looking for a water proof paint on or tape to run around the approx 2" opening and thickness of the RV wall where the window slips in. This is to prevent any possible water entering into the wall again even if the window seals were ever to fail the water would have to run inside down a wall where you would see it quicker and not be hidden inside the wall. We bought this RV and seller appears to have known about this huge issue but sold it in Feb below freezing temps to hide the mildew scent plus choose a night time showing which also helped to hide many flaws. I've repaired one water damage under the fresh water tank but am still working on repairs of the wall beneath the window where it was in the wall down to the floor. Not as smelly but a harder to fix mess. I've never done anything like this but my husband is agreeing with me on how I'm approaching it. We have never owned an RV and it's a small 22 year old which if had been shown some care would have been great still but instead they neglected her and in that it became down right abuse. Her bones however are solid her engine good and once I make the repairs she'll be a great Class B+ again. Meantime the biggest problem is not in repairing the wall which I'm doing a great job of it's wanting to rebuild the windows including the interior mullion and hitting the same wall over and over. Today I'm onto plan B and ordering the 47 feet of outside glaze rubbers and looking for something to seal off the one window with damage to the horizontal mullion even though tape would prevent the slide and screen from opening. I've got to get these windows back in and water tight soon. Thank you and everyone for showing us how to handle these products and how they perform too. Great feedback so we get the idea before we make a mess on our own. Or maybe we still make a mess but at least we've got some idea in advance what to expect. Kudo's and happy camping everyone.
I would just use the original butyl tape for the windows, the type in the tube not going to stay in place.
I have laid down a NEW EDPM unsealed rubber roof I need to install the roof vents with butyl tape and dicor sealant. However I’m plan to use Flexseal liquid on the whole roof. Which order? suggestions? can you guide me? Thanks .😢
Do you think this product would be good to cover exposed nailheads on roof as opposed to many roofing caulks that dries up and shrinks on a hot Texas roof?
Maybe it was said and I missed it, would you recommend this over the butyl tape when resealing windows?
Why would you skrew a “vent” to the roof and not use a marine grade adhesive??
Because you will have to replace it at some point and adhesive will damage the roof when comes time to remove.
3D Print parts that are bomb proof, Uv proof, and will last 1000 years. It’s pretty cheap kompared to the junk they sell at RV stores. Then use the marine grade adhesive the trailer will fall apart before the vents ever show signs of wear.
I still haven’t figured out why ppl want to transport piss and krap in a liquid soup 🥣 only to burn more fuel….. toilets and showers take up spase as well and water destroys the inside of trailers / RVs.
@@theMekanik
Agreed, the first thing I did to my rig was install a marine composting toilet, and it's still the best upgrade we've done.
I think I saw your comments on another video; would you recommend 3M's UV 4000 for this type of install? And would you totally ditch the self leveling Dicor?
Thank you. As usual , very informative.
Thanks!
What caulk would you recommend for resealing windows on a painted aluminum trailer ?
Thanks in advance.
There are many silicones on the market. My technicians tend to favor BOSS silicone.
Clear amzn.to/3Lcsm7v
Black amzn.to/44I6PdO
Can you roll butyl tape into a ball like plasticine?
Yes if it’s cooler out or if you freeze your roll of butyl tape before hand
Nothing beats butyl tape.
Butyl caulk is very messy has a tendency to move due to heat, plus if you ever need to redo something it is a huge pain to clean. I use butyl tape for sealing everything on a camper/rv. Watch that you get butyl tape and not putty tape. Putty tape doesn't hold up as well.
Thanks for adding to the conversation!
its so messy! but for windows over currugated metal it made alot more sense
Thanks for joining in on the conversation!
Both look like a great product. However I can see a huge waste if you only need a small amount. Tubes most usually have a tendency to dry up!!
Excellent video
You just came up, new sub here
Thank you!
I have a camper shell on the bed of my truck. The side window is leaking and I'm looking for a product to reseal my camper windows.
Please see our body reseal video.
Yea, but what is it going to be like when you have to remove it? Those vents don't last forever.
What was the second product after the decor that you sealed the exterior of the plumbing vent?
Dicor lap sealant.
I have butyl tape coming out of the trim on the exterior corners of my Jayco Whitehawk. Can I use the cocking method for this application?
Great information. Just wish this was a month ago 🥺. Oh well. But now I am aware of it for future work.
I am sorry to hear that, Terry! It sure is a great time saver.
Thanks god bless
Thank you too
Are you the guy on the Dicor sealant tubes?
No
Why use something like this and butyl tape instead of silicone sealant caulking
Same product basically, just easier to use especially in summer months and you don’t have to unroll and hand apply.
Butyl tape stays tacky/flexible which is beneficial for metal roof seals.
@upsallysskirt can you remove it later if you want to?
The acids in silicone reacts with aluminum, not recommended on RV's!
Also butyl stays sticky a lot longer and allows more movement, perfect for a moving vehicle, vibrations and flexing.
Looks good.
It is!
Nice, BUT the stuff stinks. If you don't smell it then great.
All of it cracks.... there's no difference