This Headset is THE PITS | Tech Tuesday
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2024
- Bikes get older and their parts wear out. It's a fact of life. This orange beauty has a pretty-pittted headset and boy does it feel chunky. Calvin has a pretty unique solution though that doesn't even involve any new parts! Find out what it is on today's Tech Tuesday!
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I also like when my bike stays between me and the road.
😂😂
Great tip! Thanks for sharing. Velo Orange has 1” French threaded headsets. Out of stock for now, but it is a staple in their offerings, wouldn’t be surprised to see more runs of it
Though there are reports online the VO headset stack height is different from original, so not 100% interchangeable, unless the mechanic installed incorrectly, or the threaded steering tube was too short. Just a note to be aware of.
So much easier to work on than the bikes of today where all the cables are hidden through the stem and forks into frame,
what used to be a simple job has become a lengthy costly job.
Atb John
a french thread has a slighlty different size and thread it's 25mm instead of 25.4 which is the standard size. also the tpi ( threads per inch) are different. it was used 40 years ago so not easy to find replacement parts
thank you google and parktool for making me want to learn about french threading :)
Noticed that you put tin loose bearings instead of caged, also good fix and more durability.
Thanks! Calvin 🚲
I wonder if you could use valve lapping compound to gently smooth out those pits by disassembling, "greasing" with the compound, then spinning the fork a bunch before cleaning it all out and regreasing. Since that threaded headset uses cup and cone, it should be able to take up the little bit of additional clearance created.
Great tips and a beautiful bike! I may have a go servicing my threaded headset one day, but the steering is currently smooth and true so perhaps I should leave it alone for now ;)
Yes, French threaded headsets were a thing. Have done this very trick decades ago. By installing loose balls and filling in all the gaps, it prevents the balls from falling into those pitts simultaneously. You've subtly changed the spacing. Occasionally I've sarcastically suggested a manufacturer reintroduce French threading to boost profits! Kind of like reintroducing hookless rims!
I have fixed so many garage sale bikes for my kids when they were younger and neighborhood kids. I have found these threaded head tubes to quite often not have any grease from new and spinning the cup ir just greasing and adjusting them will do a lot to make it work perfect.
I was assembling a new bike yesterday in the shop, there was binding when turning the handlebars, like the stem cap was torqued too much, it wasnt, the factory left a sticker on the fork inside the head tube 😂
I had worked on a new bike with incorrect type of bearing spacer put in. The tapered head-tubes of the frame sometimes have an angled step in the frame itself, where just a plastic spacer is used on top of which comes the bearing, but some have simple head-tube hole, which do need a metal lower side of the cup. So this bike had the plastic spacer instead of the metal part. Initially I just adjusted the bearings routinely - but it didnt feel right - it was neither binding nor had any play - but the handlebars were turning with resistance.
Great topic, great explanation. Two things you did without detailed explanation that I've found helpful for DIY success over the years. 1) replacing retained balls with loose ones. 2) keeping those 44, or so, loose balls in place while threading the headset back together. Thanks again for more great content.
Great tip! I may use it one day on my mid 70s Fuji America (bought it new), but not yet. I've done major work on everything else, but just once cleaned and regreased the headset. It's still perfectly smooth after lots of Kansas country miles. Lets me ride no hands, no worries. How come it's lasting so long?
Replacing the bearing cage with (more) loose ball bearings can also fix this--which it looks like Calvin may have done in this video? Changing the number of bearings changes their spacing so they no longer perfectly match the pits in the races or cones.
Has anyone mentioned that you usually only need to replace the lower cup and cone? This means that you can keep the upper cup and cone, so threading is not a concern. You do still have to worry about stack height, of course. About 34 years ago, I got a frame built with the Stronglight Delta headset in it. The Delta has roller bearings, and they don't have the problem of brinnelling or fretting. That bike has over 60,000 miles on it now, and still uses the original headset. A wonderful bit of engineering!
& where do you get half an headset from?
@@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 the usual method is to buy a whole headset and not use the upper half. This is regard to the situation where it is difficult to find a new headset with the required threading.
ISO headset has a 26.4mm OD crown race, 1"/25.4mm OD, 7/8"/22.2mm ID steerer, and is threaded at 24tpi.
French headset has a 26.5mm crown race, 25mm OD/22mm ID steerer, and is threaded at 1mm/25.4mm tpi.
The ISO steerer has a keyway cut into it that accepts tabbed washers, whereas the French steerer has a flat machined onto it and uses washers with a corresponding flat.
How refreshing to see some advice that isn't "fit new" (and throw away the old one)!
I was pleasantly surprised that the ~50yo headset in my old roadie was still in decent condition when I serviced it last summer. The cottered bottom bracket though is another question.
+1 for bike between me and the ground
Thank you for this video. This is something very useful to know as I rebuild bikes now.
Recently took my headset apart for the 1st time, repacked her with fresh grease and she was buttery smooth! sand in the seals had it a bit crunchy over time, but a good cleaning of all parts and reinstall with premium grease made a massive difference.
Thanks for doing a headset video! Great work 👏👏👏
The best way to prolong headset life is to use a needle bearing headset. Ive got a couple Stronglight headsets that are over 40 years old on offroad ridden bikes.
These type bearings take the load and beating much better. Theres much more bearing contact. In the application of a headset, round balls are not the best choice, theyre the cheapest choice.
The only issue is that your headtube and fork must be reamed, faced and milled perfectly.
I have a Peugeot Competition that I purchased in 1980. Wanted to switch out the pedals a couple of years ago and discovered the whole French threading thing. After watching your video I would assume the headset is also French threaded as is the top of the steerer tube where the handlebar stem goes. Someone replaced the original lock ring with a Specialized one and it is constantly becoming loose, so much so that I’m constantly checking it when I ride. Only three or four threads show it’s difficult to tighten it. Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Thanks, Great Subject
Hi Calvin 😊❤
You're the best Calvin cool tip
1. Yes, I like to keep the bike between me and the ground
2. No, I don't know what a French threaded headset is
Good stuff, as usual 👍🏼👍🏼
Wind turbine azimuth bearings suffer the same problem on a much larger scale. Grease companies sell special greases for azimuth bearings that claim protection from fretting wear. Perhaps Park Tool should talk to grease companies to see if one of those greases or something similar could be sold as a headset grease.
Although the video showed swapping the original caged bearings with loose ball bearings, it may of been helpful to discuss this change. There will be more ball bearings and the spacing between the balls will no longer be uniform.
It's the lack of uniform spacing that makes it work better.
This is correct. When using ball without cages, do not pack it full, leave some room to move about.
For loose ball: if the bearings fit in perfectly snug, remove 2 bearings. If they fit in with one jacked up, remove 3 bearings.
Anyone know why there's only Cane Creek making ZS 44/28 with a ZS 44/30 lower in one complete package?! Every other Zero Stack headset had an oversized lower. Are straight tube forks and head tubes so rare now that there's only 1 complete boxed ZS for a straight tube?!
So do you do (max bearings -2) for the headset? I was taught that way, but then some other mechanics looked like I was crazy?
For loose ball: if the bearings fit in perfectly snug, remove 2 bearings. If they fit in with one jacked up, remove 3 bearings.
A French threaded headset has a different thread and steerer tube diameter.
Was that word at the 3:07 mark “frenning”?
Fretting. It refers to wear and sometimes corrosion damage of loaded surfaces in contact, while they encounter small oscillatory movements.
The headset pit marks would be visible with a dioptre lamp .
👏👏👏🎥
Я просто поменял гарнитуру.
I made my own headset press for $10, saving me $140 from overpriced parts. It's called a hardware store lol.
For loose ball: if the bearings fit in perfectly snug, remove 2 bearings. If they fit in with one jacked up, remove 3 bearings.
Headsets, a pain in the ass
French threads... the bane of my existence in the 70s when I would see a Motobecane or a Peugeot come in for service. Don't even get me started on Italian threading...