The CRFL is one of the best values out there. With a true dual sport mind set this bike checks all the boxes. The term dual sport has been distorted (as much of the English language today). The "original" dual sports were exactly what the CRFL is, a road bike motor in mellow tune in a frame and wheel set that can ride well on pavement and dirt trails. Some how, today, we need a bike that can commute and win an MX race or it's junk.
That is so true. The CRF isn't going to win any races, but it's inexpensive, reliable, fun to ride, and fun to tweak. Exactly what it was mean't to be.
my 2014 crf250l just past over 250,000km last month. blew front fork seals 6 times (both fronts 3 times). rear caliper seized rear rotor was shot some bad corrosion on the rear rim/spokes and thats it. pretty good if you ask me for a quarter million km's.......
Mike Parry my Dmax (badged as a Holden rodeo) has done 365,000km and only had the regular things none till last month when the injectors were over halled. Is the crf250l the motorcycle version of a Isuzu? If so good stuff and back down all you BMW 650 owners with 160,000km on the clock there a new super reliable bike in town.
So I own a WR and have done a lot of touring on it. At 6'2 its still too tall. I have it lowered to about 35in. To me the WR is a more "dirt" oriented bike than the CRF, as the WR is built on the YZ chasis and stock the WR is better offroad, but not enough to swing the vote. However the WR sets nicely on the highway as well. I've also ridden the CRF250L a good bit and I believe they are both wonderful bikes. A person should be happy with either. Great video, cheers
For sure, the WR is a real nice bike. Better on dirt straight out of the box. As you say, both are great choices depending on finances and preferences -- and height ;-)
Thanks for the miles..I have the same bike only 13,000 ish miles. It's nice to know the reliability is there as I do a lot of middle of nowhere desert riding. Thanks!!!!
I have a 17 model, it doesn't break in until about 1400 miles. I could really feel a difference, not so tight. I would recommend some shenko big blocks to the factory irc's, they feel awesome on and off road.
@@bushcracker8197 Yeah l have a 2018 with 8k and agree with you, At 2k the bike was as tight as the day that l bought it but over the next 1000k or so there was a noticeable difference. Changed front sprocket from 14 to 13 on day one but other than that bike is still stock.
Im glad i found your video great stuff, just about to get a 2020 black 250L. Not my first Honda but the 4th all of them where trouble free. 2003 CRF450 great - 2007 CRF450X great - 2012 VFR800 great - had enough of the speed now i want a nice smooth chilling ride and i think this will be perfect. Good luck with it I will be checking back on your future videos.
From what you say, I think you will thoroughly enjoy the 250L. It's a great bike. I however have just sold mine. See my latest video regarding that. ua-cam.com/video/mc2MiQIz8OM/v-deo.html Had to be done. My knees gave out; not the bike :-)
My 2013 with 30 k miles . I let it sit for 3 years under a tarp . Last week I put a new battery in it . Dumped out the 3 year old gas put fresh in . It cranked on the first try and runs like new ! I was amazed . Now I’m putting new chain tubes tires and changing all the fluids renewing my tag and I’ll be back in business . I have been thru 2 cam chain tensioners other than that just normal ware
That's great. If you tired of the stock cam chain tensioner, try the Krieger manual CCT. No worries after that; just a slight adjustment every 6 to 8,000 miles.
I HAVE 36,000 MILES ON MY CRF250L ...RIDE IT EVERYDAY AND IS RUNNING FINE!! OIL CHANGE EVERY 2000 (ROTILLA T6) THIRD SET OF TIRES, ADJUST THE VALVES, NEW SPARK PLUG, CLEAN AIR FILTER, AND 65 MILES TO THE GALLON!! ITS A HONDA!!
After I have seen a quiet few videos on CRF250L, I think that's going to be my next bike. I have a 2006 Shadow 750 Aero, nice! But I'm not getting that feeling, adventure kind of thing. I decided, my next bike, CRF250L. Thank you guys, for the honest views on this one. At the beginning of my motorcycle quest, the dual sport was my goal. I don't know how I changed my mind. Hey, but that's ok. Let's get back on riding!
Great review, enjoyed it very much, so for I have totally enjoyed my 2014 CFR250L, I've done a few things as well, FMF muffler, Bars and protectors, small rack on the back, skid plate and I still have a few more mods to do before I'm done, and I'm gonna look into the TCT as you stated.
I've had mine since Oct of 2012, 30,000 km now. Rock solid reliable with the exception of consistently leaking fork seals over the last couple years. Looks like I'll have to bring them in to get re-sealed this winter. Other than that, reliable and most importantly a fun bike to ride (in most situations).
I had a 2013. clocked 60000 km, with no issues whatsoever. Changed the oil every 5000, which in my opinion is a crutial matter for holding a bike for so many km's. Now I have 2017 ABS, which is a different bike alltogether, has 30000 km's' and again, no issues whatsoever. Long distance traveling of 500+ km's are not rare with this bike. I my opinion' one of the best all around motorcycles Honda ever made.
Awesome bikes, i would ride my 2017 cross country. At 240lbs i still have a 8 second 0 to 60 ( few mods, exhaust and air mod ). Holds up at high rpm's like a champ.
The wr has the same issue with the cam chain tensioner from what I’ve read. Seems like a cool bike! I was looking at a ktm exc but I think this would be better. I don’t ride crazy. I mainly chill. Ride safe bro
It's a good bike to chill on, and it'll handle the rough stuff well enough for those who just want to poke around. It'll get you there; just not in race fashion.
You have not been broken because you drive with knowledge and common sense Also you are taking great care with your motorcycle. I think that perhaps the CRF 250 Rally model would be better for me because it is a little higher, it has a fairing, a fuel tank with 10.1 liters, etc. I am in doubt.
Great bike, I'm loving it as a first bike. My only complaint is the skid plate clearance is not that high and I've scraped across rocks a few times with it following my brother on his DRZ400S who cleared them no problem. Other than that though, no complaints at all.
I like the Moose Racing plastic skid plate; no vibration rattle, half the weight of aluminum, and slides over rocks better than aluminum. Glad you're enjoying your 250L :-)
@@fredburris5428 I've had good success with the plastic Moose Racing plate. I've hit it pretty hard on embedded rock and stuff and no worries so far. I like that it is quiet; no resonance of engine sounds or rattles, and that it is much lighter than aluminum.
Not surprised that red is reliable. Can you say 450 soon, I can. However, I disagree on the wrr comparison both are close but the weight advantage of the wrr once flowing air with same mods you mention makes the wrr the boss. Again I am talking a small differences. So who cares. The low maintenance sub 360 lbs fi dual sport gives only the two choices red or blue. Pick your color and cost near you and enjoy both are great bikes. No color loyalty here.
Yeah, you're right about the WR when it receives similar mods. I should have been clear I was referring to a modded crf compared to a stock WR. The WR is quite a bit more expensive which enters my thinking on that. WR is a great bike. If I could have afforded it I might have chosen it. For me, and a lot of others, it's easier to afford slowly modding a bike. Sometimes in the end you wind up with something you prefer even if you could have afforded the more expensive bike :-)
I bought a brand new 2018 CRF250L and I'm in love with my bike. I've put some extra on it and now she got style. Made a couple of vids on my channel. Good video thanks for sharing your thoughts✌🏽
I've been using a Krieger manual CCT since then (years now) and always works perfectly. A quick adjustment every 10,000 to 15,000 kms if needed and you're golden.
So many great reviews on different bikes it's difficult to decide. Today I've decided on a CRF250L. Yesterday it was the DRZ400. Tomorrow it will be something else no doubt. All the Japanese dual sport bikes are pretty good I think. Can't really go wrong with any of them. I think I'll just base my decision on the best deal I can find.
Scoot Toots Thanks! My next bike will be something exactly like yours, the 690 can be a beast sometimes and I would like to ride a bike harder and faster then my skill level often allows lol and that’s better suited to a 250 I think
@@Scoottoots Try to recover with bicycle exercise and physical therapist or you can also have surgery in South Korea where you can find a lot of hospitals with very advanced medicine that can help you with very reasonable prices. .
I like the full gas tank. The weight should`nt effect the ride,,much. One thing i wish came on these bikes is a rpm tach. I know the 2017 up have tachs and 3rd partys make add ons. The 250l make 23 horse power. I get around 70 miles to a gallon. And use 10-50 oil. Keeps the engine noise down and doesnt get beat up as fast. The best thing one might buy is a honda factory service manual.
Yeah I mounted an aftermarket tach. Comes in useful. With the mods the HP is about 25 - 26 so not too bad now. 10W 50 eh? I find the Motul 7100 ester based snth in 10W 40 works really well for me. I run it in winter also and our summer can be very hot, so it's a good all-rounder for me.
Nice update, dont think ive seen any negatives from people that have used it for its purpose, which isnt really about racing full speed through off road terrain, even after lots of miles\km like you
Thanks for the review, my dad wants a scooter, I'm trying to get him on a motorcycle like this one. 1 he would be more visible 2 though we both haven't ridden for over 20yrs we do have dirt bike experience in our past and I plus ten years street riding experience and 3 more per to get out of situations (or my concern to get into). Sending the link to him for your video
Hi from the BC coast, and a sincere thanks for your videos from a fellow mature rider. I hope I get that much trouble free mileage out of my XT250. It's been a dream so far (7000km in 2 years), and I'll be putting on the Shinko 700's that I bought on your advice (you have the only useful review video for the 700's BTW). I need to get them on before the rain hits this fall, down here on the BC coast, and my mostly worn DeathWings actually earn their nickname. It's going to be nice having tires that don't suck, vibrate and make me terrified to go around corners on wet roads, so thank you again for the detailed description of your experience. I won't go another winter on crappy tires. After watching your videos, I think the comparison to make between the XT250 and the CRF250L is something like this: the XT is older technology in every way, not as good performance wise in almost every way, but all together that makes it a slightly better trail bike, while making it a fairly less capable highway bike. It also simplifies the maintenance, being air cooled, but who knows if the engine will last as well as your bike has. I will also say the XT is about right as a stock bike, for people like us who aren't trying to race, jump or do vertical trials riding. There's not much that can be done to juice it up, without spending a ton on a big bore kit, and it's still not really going to get you where you wanted to be (a new XT350 does not exist, and that WR250 is way too tall). I personally appreciate starting off 30 pounds lighter, and an inch shorter to the seat than the CRF250L. Losing the better highway performance is not a big penalty for me, because I'm stuck behind ferries in every direction, so longer road trips are the very infrequent exception to me, whereas your area is endless roads in every direction. I just stick to the secondary roads when I'm out of town, unless I have no choice but to blast the freeways and wind it out full throttle to keep up 120. The scenery sucks on freeways anyways, I'm happier going slow exploring any stupid little shitty trail, including lots of single track crap and bush bashing that the XT is ideal for. That's also a serious reason I wanted an air cooled bike, because a stick through a radiator or hose means you walk home, and coastal clear cuts have sticks that will kick up and almost break your leg, that I've put through truck rads more than once. So, a question: how is the exposed chrome on the front fork lowers holding up? My last bike was a 1982 Yamaha SR250 (80's street style, did great for dual sport), cobbled together from 2 of them. Rust pits on the chrome were an issue that took out the forks on my first SR250, and before that also on my very first bike, an 1982 SR185. On my combined SR250 I added rubber accordion protectors, which should have been stock, in hopes not to lose a third bike to the problem. Part of my preference for the XT250 was the old-style upright forks with the rubber accordions stock, like a dirt bike should be. It seems like a serious concern, for four season riders like us, who intend to keep a bike for years. Maybe they've eliminated this issue on modern inverted forks, by making the chrome way thicker, so that regular fights with gravel just don't take any damage that actually gets through the chrome, preventing rust from ever starting. It may be that those 1980's bikes just had chrome that was too thin for the task. It's a question you may have an answer to, that would be nice to finally know. Thanks again for all the great videos, and happy riding :)
Thanks. Your XT is a real nice bike, and it obviously suits your riding. Can't ask for more than that. Also, I agree, simpler is usually better. Air cooled is one less concern out on the trails. Less concerns equals more fun. The chrome on the forks is still flawless on my CRF. I can't see any imperfections. I know what you mean though. I have a set of forks for another bike (spare set) that are slightly pitted with rust. Take care and enjoy :-)
Ah man, what shame.. too bad you didn't keep the old XL. Those mid-80's XL's were incredibly tough bikes. I have a friend who has an '86 XL600 in original condition. It has the dual carb setup, kind of a pain it's never given him trouble other than dealing with two carbs when putting a new gasket set in them. Anyway, his XL600 is still on the road, and he rides it all the time, very cool looking bike in the red, white and blue
I have a 84 XL350R with less than 14,000 miles on it I'd like to sell, and she is in great shape for her age, I have 3 bikes I ride, 2 1984 Xl's a 250 and the 350 and my 2014 CFR250L, all nice bikes, I still have big love for those oldies, comparing the old 84 to the 2014, it is hard to compare since the mind set has change in so many years, can say one thing, those dual progressive carbs rock still to this very day, that 84 engine will whip the 2014 any day of the week. Hit me up if your interested in that 350, @ kandiyelitile @ aol dot com peace.
Moving to Kelowna next month and thinking of buying a 250L. Where I’m from there is riding but I assume it’s totally diffrent to Canada (Australia). Do you recommend any good local trails?
Ah, you'll love Kelowna area I think. Lots of great riding areas here. Once you're here you'll see the choices. Something to suit any riding style or skill level. If you're buying a new 250L, go see Collin at the Honda Powerhouse in Kelowna.
I wonder why in many countries only the L is available. I had the M and still believe it is the better bike. Of course that depends on how you use the bike, if you're a serious off-roader then the enduro is for you. But many riders end up doing way more street than they thought and don't jump or cross rivers. The M is quite capable on fire roads and uneven surface. But the M has a bigger front disc, the suspension is a bit stiffer (some riders complain that the L is too soft), the seat height is a bit lower because of the smaller wheels but still tall enough, and the gearing gives you a higher top speed. The two last points may even help bringing the fuel consumption down a bit. I had tons of fun in city traffic, being a "motard-hooligan", and can only recommend this version. Maybe Honda thinks it would take sales away from the L if they'd introduce the M but I feel riders are definitely losing out on a great bike. If you're not familiar with the CRF250M google it, the pics posted by rideasia.net show my bike, all stock, in black with gold rims.
I agree, the M version is more suited to a lot of riders who choose the L. One of the bikes I am looking into is the DRZ 400SM supermoto. Put some Shinko 705's on that and it'd be a great road bike that is capable of some dirt on the side.
Just found your channel, really enjoyed your experiences shared on the 250L. Noticed the bash plate on your bike, looks like the Moose plastic plate. Really would like to know what you think of the Moose vs one of the aluminum versions, would you go that route again? Am also very interested to know more about manual chain tensioner. Again, great video.
Thanks Papa. Yup, that's the Moose Racing skid plate, and I absolutely prefer plastic to the aluminum. They are much lighter, they do not cause resonant or vibration noise, and they slide over rocks better. I have an Acerbis plastic plate on my crf300l for those reasons. The Manual CCT is made by Krieger Cam Chain Tensioners. It was necessary for me to go that route as three OEM units failed completely , one after the other. I came to the conclusion there was some flaw in the engine casing causing the OEM units to be positioned incorrectly. The manual unit solved the issue. Most owners do not have that problem. Cheers :-)
no no no hold up my 2013 crf250l has 53,000 miles on it and i have driven every one of them...it still runs pretty good but i would not go very fast or very far!!! best bike i ever owned.
How much petroil you need...how big is the tank...i didnt understand, what oil and cooling you use...thanks a lot for your nice video... I love this bike...but i would love it more, if it would have 40PS...
Just picked up a 2018 CRF250L last week. I have a massive 26 miles on it. What seat do you have on yours. I just subscribed to your channel. I will try to look around this evening to see if you have a video on it.
Hey Brandon, congrats on the purchase. I have the Spiral Step Seat. After it was broken in, I find it very comfortable. Just my impression of course, but I like it a lot. No doubt there are other seats available that are better but this one feels just right for me. I did a final review on it after a somewhat negative first impression. here is the final review: ua-cam.com/video/98E-4pNBPk4/v-deo.html
Are you still riding the CRF 250 L in 2020. If so what kind of mileage do you have and is it still reliable. I was a trucker for about 18 years and used to go to Kelowna about 20 times a year from Calgary or Vancouver and always enjoyed the driving in the summer with nice sights to see. One thing I liked about Honda's was that they were under powered a little but over speced which for the most part gave you years of trouble free driving such as you have enjoyed.
Yup, still riding the CRF250L as well, this year. It has 61,000 kms on it now, and yes, it's still dead reliable. No troubles at all with it. Great little bike :-)
@@Scoottoots Thanks for the prompt response I haven't run bikes for awhile but I have had a few enduro and dirt bikes such as a Suzuki ts 250 and a Honda xl 250 back in the 80's and early 90's which were lots of fun. I have run a Gsxr 750 which was fun but to much temptation for speed and my brother in Toronto area has a CBR 929 Fireblade which is like a rocket sled to hell and back with a 100 000 kilometers and still runs with no issues but insurannce is crazy so he is running a BMW 800 GS. I love the Japenese bikes that allow for modern technology that is bulletproof that allow you to hit start or kickstart and enjoy adventures without worry. Stay safe and enjoy many more miles with this or another Honda that gives you many miles of adventure and fun.
Yup, you would notice something amiss. I assume you are referring to the cam chain tensioner issue I had. Most owners do not have that issue; only some do. The stock setup is somewhat noisy and that throws people off, thinking the CCT is failing, when it's just acceptable noise. If it fails the noise is quite different and you'd notice that.
Great review! I have only one question how does the bike pull on a long incline with you and your gear? I ask because I'm 109kg and would like a light bike for riding to and from trails hear in Arizona USA but due to injuries I'm unable to lift a bike any heavier then the crf250l not if i fall but when lol... do you think it could Cruze about 65mph with my 109kg? Thanks
Thanks. Re: your question, I'm thinking it would but depends on the incline and how much gear. Top end on mine the way I have it set up is around 80 mph. A friend of mine spends winters in Arizona and rides a CRF250L also. He is about your weight and doesn't seem to have issues with keeping up speed. That said, if I were you, before investing arrange for a test ride and take it up on a decent grade; see how it does.
The Engine Ice is used straight up from the bottle. I'm going to be flushing it out and changing it, using Engine Ice again, when the weather warms up some.
Hi Scoot, What were your oil change intervals and brand of engine oil you used on your CRRF250L? Also did you ever check and have to adjust your valves?
I changed the oil approximately every 6,000 km. I used Motul 7100 Ester based full synthetic. And yes, I had the valves checked twice. The first check they are still on spec (20,000 or so km). Second check at 40,000 or so, the exhaust valves needed one shim size adjustment. I also had a leak-down test done at around 35,000 km and it was still within new bike spec. Good oil regularly changed and not spending a lot time near the rev limiter is key to long life.
Ive heard so much about your bike and the CCT failures. I have one of my own and have been wondering, what EXACTLY failed on the CCT? The spring broke? Seems like a pretty solid design as far as total failure.
On the first one that failed, the shaft wasn't gripped in place and had 1/4" of play, which of course took the tension off the cam chain. That was a definte faulty unit. On the successive failed units, the only thing I could think of at the time was the spring strength dimmished and no longer pushed the shaft forward. Honda verified the chain was no longer being tensioned which is why they replaced them free of charge even though warrantee was expired on the last two. When the last one failed I installed a manual CCT and that was years ago and no worries since. It's a tough one to diagnose since it's doubtful the replacements were all of the same manufacturing batch, and most owners never have this problem. Perhaps there was a flaw in stamping the casing on my engine that caused the tension arm (not the CCT) to sit incorrectly, putting the CCT at the limits of its effective travel. In handsight that's my best guess. I put a call in to Honda Customer Service head office at the suggestion of the local dealer to try to get Honda to dig deeper. They took all the details and said a tech would call back but they never did. So guesswork it is then ;-).
@@Scoottoots that definitely puts my mind at ease. I removed mine earlier today and it seemed to function properly. I reinstalled and still hear my personal "bag of marbles" riding right along with me. It really sounds like excess valve play or something loose/knocking in the valves or rockers. Atleast on my bike anyways. I saw one guy who made an adapter and retrofitted a standard tensioner onto it. But a manual tensioner is surely a complete fix. Your videos and mileage are a testamant to that. Ive considered a manual one on other bikes and even had one in my hands to install once and ended up not doing it. I just feel like it would be wayyy to easy to either be too tight or too loose. And i am a pretty serious home mechanic having rebuilt many old honda engines and others. If i ever have any inclination mine is failing i wont hesitate to install a manual one. Do you have a video of your installation? I know i could look but you probabaly know off the top of your head.
@@winstonpoplin That bag of marbles is common on these bikes, and it is the CCT creating that sound if it happens on trailing throttle and steady throttle at around 60 kph, but diasapears when you throttle on. It's what Honda calls 'normal' for that bike. I don't have an install vid on the manual unit. If you ever get one, choose the Krieger CCT. He makes them himself and does a good job of writing complete instructions, and makes himself available by phone if a person has questions. It's not difficult to install if follow the instructions. If you get it too tight you'll hear the engine whine quite audibly at low speeds such as when coming to a stop.
@@Scoottoots im checking my valves now and i swear that the cam sprockets dont like up perfectally with the head surface. Could the bike really be one tooth off?
@@Scoottoots i have inspected the CCT further and have had an idea im going to try. The tension is held by a flat type windup spring as you know. I am just gonna put a little more preload on the threaded rod before i reassemble. But the problem is i wasnt able to see how much preload was on it from the factory. So i dont know where to start really and id hate to start with too little tension and mess it up. And advice since you have disassembled one before?
oh the CCT. What everyone on YT says is the problem with a "noisy valve train" once clearance is addressed :) So I forgive Honda for that since they, IMHO, are finnicky things (although seemingly simple in construction)
A lot of these models have noisy cam chain and it doesn't become an issue. My particular issues were not the regular noisy valve train or clearance issues. Three units failed completely one after the other one year apart. In hindsight, though the design of the auto cct could be better functioning especially in cold weather operation, I think my recurrent issues were caused by a casting problem on the inner surfaces of the engine casing, possibly where the tensioner arm sits (the part the CCT presses against).
I'm hoping to purchase a second-hand one this week. Not sure I'm going to do much to it. I'd be happy to just ride it pretty-much stock. Hopefully I can secure the purchase. Can't wait. It's been a while since I last owned a motorbike (about ten years). :P
great video sir, I hit the like button and subscribed and what year model is the bike? I just bought a new one 2020 model- always loved riding I'm in western Sydney Australia
Crf250 with that many furlongs is about worn out. At least it needs rings piston and valves...bearings, crank, gaskets, springs, bolts,,,, bushings, injectors....frame...airbox, switches, exhaust.....cotter pins, cables, ......thats about it...just minor stuff.
What gear ratio have you gone with and been most satisfied with. I have a 13 tooth in the front, but I find second gear very tall in tight single track. Have you gone up on the back?
I've gone with 14/45. It's the same ratio as the popular 13/42. I like that as the best compromise for dirt and pavement riding. Prior to this I felt the best was 14/42, especially if I was riding on pavement primarily.
I've been running a lame 13/40 for awhile now. But I ride this little tank 10% hwy, 70% dirt road and 20% deep, difficult sand single track. I expect a lot from this bike, and so far, it keeps up with all my buds, whether it's the Tiger 800's and KLR 650s or the 250Rs...mostly ;) - it's by far the most versatile bike of the bunch (except maybe the DRZ400 guy). I thought maybe a 14/45, swapping back to the 13 tooth for a little extra for 2nd and 3rd gear if needed. Thanks Toots, I like your channel.
Good review, I’m ready to buy one, I’m 58 and want a small enduro that I can ride 15 miles to see friends and ride 300 miles to big bear or lake havasu, one recommendation I have is that u try using KLOTZ MX FULL SYNTHETIC OIL- IT COMES IN DIFFERENT VISCOUSITIES AND IS SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR ENDURO MOTORS. The MX 10-40 KLOTX MX ESTORLIN 4STROKE OIL WILL LOWER UR CRANKCASE TEMPERATURE AND U WILL NOTICE A QUIETER MOTOR, I use it in my X-R 650 and have a oil temp gauge on the fill cap/ dipstick, With the MOTOL 7100 FULL SYNTHETIC MY CRANKCASE TEMPERATURE WAS AROUND 240 DEGREES, WITH THE KLOTZ MX 10/40 ESTORLIN OIL (FULL SYNTHETIC) MY CRANKCASE TEMPERATURE DROPPED TO 215 DEGREES!! Lower temperatures equals less wear!! Check it out at KLOTZ LUBE .COM, THEY ARE THE FIRST MANUFACTURER OF SYNTHETIC OIL - RIGHT BEFORE AMSOIL, I HIGHLY RECOMMENDED KLOTZ OILS , U WILL NOTICE A QUIETER MOTOR AND LOWER CRANKCASE TEMPERATURE AND MORE POWER, I know, ur thinking -right, more power from a oil?? But u will, not much but ur compression is more stable with Klotz oils, I’m not a rep or trying to shill for Klotz, I have ran it in all my bikes since my first RD-400 in 1977, I didn’t have to replace the top end on my RD for over 30k miles! It is the best oil , And has the racy Klotz smell-
Hi John. Thanks for the recommendation on the Klotz oil. I checked it out some. No dealers in my part of Canada though. I couldn't find a reference to the Klotz MX Estorlin you mentioned. I could see Estorlin but not with the MX designation. I saw an 'MX4 Tecniplate' for 4 stroke off road motorcycles and 'Motorcycle Techniplate' (without MX designation) for road motorcycles. Looks like good stuff. Sadly they don't provide a full tech spec on any of their oils; just basic info on their tech sheet. I've found that some of these excellent oils that outperform most are made for race applications, incorporating an additive package that excels but breaks down fast. Motul 300V for motorcycles is an example. It's a great oil but if you run it more than 2000 kms you'll experience faster wear than conventional oil. Not saying the Klotz oil you like is in that category, but I always like to see the additive package specs and get their input on how long it can be run. I like the Motul 7100 as it is ester based; a big advantage for decreased wear. Thanks again. I'm always learning, and I'll keep looking at the Klotz line.
Just subscribed to your channel, really appreciate your riding attitude. I'm just retired (61), want to get back into two wheels after almost 20 yrs away, and it seems our approach is similar, ie. fire roads, back roads, not real aggressive but adventurous, maybe some overlanding or Lk Sup circle tour?.... I'm just south of you, btw, in NE Minn. and you have really spectacular views where you are! All that said, I'm on the fence with a '17 250L with about 2600 miles, adult mostly street ridden, or spending the extra $$ to a '23 300L and putting off so many of the great upgrades. I see you just transitioned to the 300L, so my question is: do you find enough improvement and differences on the 300L that, given the choice, is the 300L worth the reach and keeping it stock for a longer time? I appreciate the subjective nature of the question, but I'm really open to thoughts and opinions. And I welcome any and everyone's comments, too! Again, really enjoying your videos, discoveries, adventures, etc. Keep up the great work!
Hey thanks Papa Grouch. Great question. The 300L is a big improvement from the 250L with one downside, and that is the suspension. I personally feel the 300L suspension (primarily the shock) is much worse than the 250L. Unless you are light weight, it is a serous impediment to riding enjoyment if you enjoy pushing it now and then. With spirited riding on twisty pavement for instance, there is a lot of wallowing and bounciness, which is a problem when transitioning from curve to curve. For trails and dirt roads it is not as big of an issue when just out exploring. So I guess it depends on the type of riding you do, and your weight. If you can foresee upgrading the shock within a year or so, then I would say the 300L will be a more capable and enjoyable bike, and worth the money difference compared to the used 250L. Of course the price of the 250L would be a big factor. Most of the used models I see for sale are prices fairly high. Thanks again, and good luck with your decision :-)
@@Scoottoots Gee, what took you so long to answer?? lol.. Thanks so much for getting right back to my question, yes, your reply helps a great deal in my decision making paradigm! I note your focus on the 300L is the shock vs the fork as with the 250L.. That is very interesting, but the bigger point is the bike. As for rider size, I'm a "svelt" 5'8" and about 190 lbs +/- 5, plus gear. Looking long term on down the road, as it were, I'll have to lean toward the 300L. "Buy once, cry once," as it were. Thanks again
@@papagrouch8416 Yeah I felt the forks were okay; similar to the 250L forks in feel. I upgraded both ends though. Once I got the shock, I could feel the front could be improved to get the most out of the bike long term. Many riders find the shock is acceptable, so there's variation bike to bike and varied expectations I guess. Yes, buy once cry once, then keep it forever 🙂
I'am buying this bike in may, and i wonder if you could put a list of all mods you did to yours. And got a question how did you ride the bike after you bought it?
My personal method of breaking the bike in was to ride it in stretches of fairly hard acceleration and deceleration for the first 20 miles or so; not revving it too high or anything; just putting good load on the engine, allowing it to heat cycle, and avoiding long steady stretches. After that I tried to keep it in the city ensuring lots of starts and stops, acceleration/deceleration, for the entire break in period. That ensures the rings seat and flare out nicely to provide best compression, etc. My method may not be recommended by some, so I'm not suggesting it, just saying that's what I think is best. Mods: I should do a video on that, detailing everything I've done. I'll try and do that in the next short while. Thanks :-)
I have not understood what you changed in these 53,000 km? Please, could you answer me? Thanks for your video, it is a great help to know what a great bike you have. I am very happy to know that. I always thought about buying this bike before any other.
@@jb-lu4vo Yes it was the Cam Chain Tensioner. Three of them completely failed. I switched to a Krieger manual CCT to solve the issue. The mods on the bike were: -- Acerbis 11.7 liter fuel tank -- Yoshimura RS4 Full System Exhaust -- Spark Arrestor and two decibel killers -- EJK Electronic Jet kit Fuel Controller -- High Flow Air Filter -- Opened out Air Box & oversize snorkel -- Pair Valve Delete -- DRC Silicon Radiator Hoses -- DRD Speedometer corrector -- Louder Horn -- Moose Racing Skid Plate -- Krieger Manual CCT -- CRF150R Folding Shift Lever -- Zeta Handguards -- Shorty Adjustable Levers -- Oxford Heated Grips -- Borrego Tail Rack -- Spiral Step Seat -- Tail Tidy done --Hardline Tachometer -- Brake Speed Bleeders front and rear -- Engine Ice Coolant -- 14/45 Sprockets
How about on hot, Texas climates? It’s up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit this week. Could it stand that? I haven’t researched this bike much. But a lot of people here are giving it praise. Is it very reliable?
Yes it's good in the heat. It can get that hot here also and it handles it well. I use Engine Ice coolant and that lowers the temp on those hot days poking around on the dirt. Very reliable in my experience.
Scoot Toots, Ok cool. And how about the specs of it? What’s the power of it, how’s it’s handling, top speed, how many cc’s is it, etc? Anything else you can think of about it please let me know and thank you!
@@hectichive889 For a 250cc dual sport it handles well enough on pavement, including the highways (not freeways). City handling is great since it's a nimble bike and you're high up to see traffic. On rough trails it handles again well enough. It's not going to handle like a dedicated dirt bike, but it'll get you wherever you want to take it. The suspension is adequate off road unless you want to really rip it all the time. So it's a bike that handles rough off road at a conservative pace. The stock bike is about 20 hp at the crank. With stage one mods and some tweaking with the tuning, as I have done, you increase that by about 4 hp or thereabouts. It's does everything just fine in stock form though. Plus, in stock trim you get the stock economy.
Scoot Toots, So would it be fine if I mainly did this for offroad trails? I’m not trying to use this mainly for getting around, I want it to be mainly offroading but with the ability to ride on streets. So then I could also ride it to the trails I want instead of towing it around or that sorta thing.
@@hectichive889 absolutely it would be well-suited to that. As long as you don't need the power and handling of the more aggressive dual sports, it'll be a good choice. If you like pushing it super-hard on rough terrain and want a bike that'll handle that with finesse, then you'd be wise to look into the KTM 250 or 350 EXC. A lot more pricey to purchase and maintain, and perhaps not as good on the highways as the CRF250L. Choices :-)
What year is your CRF250L? How much HP do you think you are making, and also what is your average MPG? I have a 2017 CRF250L ABS with 7,700KM on it so I am just curious. Thanks!
It's a 2013. I figure maybe I'm getting about 22 HP to the wheel, though I haven't checked it on a dyno. MPG in Imperial measures range from 63 to 75 depending on how the Fuel controller is set and for highway riding, the gearing.
Crf 250l is best i have one is park in philipines runs good only problems is front forks leaks im going to instal Race Tech fork spring and once replace starter relay coling fan gott so hot burn .I drove to river under water and i still a live no problem best bike
Good stuff. The Racetech fork upgrade is a good idea. I may do that as well. Leaky forks can usually be fixed with a Seal Mate strip. They normally just need cleaning under the seal to stop the leak.
Good review sir. If I may ask whats the top speed on this. can it keep up on the freeway. Im looking at one of these as a cheep commuter bike. mostly on road back and forth to work in the spring & summer months. maybe a little of road now an then on weekends.
Hey Gerald, top end on mine is around 130 kph or 80 mph (corrected) without revving the heck out of it through the gears to get there. Of course gearing and terrain will change that. 14/42 gearing would be a good choice for commuting and off road. As for mods, I'd say maybe just an EJK fuel controller at the Dobeck settings for a stock bike, plus opening the air box out and either clipping the backfire screen off, or installing a K & N filter. That way you get a little extra punch but keep the cost down to around $300 for the mods. Sounds like you might want to also look at the DR650. Way better commuter and still capable enough for moderate off road.
I prefer Shinko 700 front and rear for a true dual sport tire. Performs really well on pavement and descent on dirt in my area. 3 x 21 up front and 4.60 x 18 in the rear.
I doubt it. For the use I put it to it has well enough power. I'm happy with it as is. Lots of options though for more power if I wanted. It's possible to get this bike to 29 to 30 HP without going big bore.
do you ride off road much? Looks so clean! I'm on a Africa Twin but would love to have one of these for some of the tougher off road stuff I enjoy, the AT is just way to heavy
Yeah I rode off road a fair bit. Maybe 50%. Hard to say. It's not dirt bike proficient, but it's adequate to take into really rough stuff. it'll get you through pretty much anything. You just won't be able blast through the technical stuff.
I just bought a crf250L a few days ago, flash flood on the day I got it delivered, and a sudden leg problem is keeping me from putting even a single mile on it
I have a 2017 bought it new could not beat the price of 5k out the door. I plan to ride a good bit this year. I changed the rear sprocket to sunstar 42t. Any recommendations on a good tail bag that won't break the bank?? I do have a rear rack. Ty
Honestly, I tend to use very inexpensive tail bags. I either convert a small bag intended for other uses or I order a Chinese bag. The bag I currently use for the last couple years cost me $10 with free delivery. It's somewhat small but holds the necessary stuff in case I have problems on the ride. Very rugged with heavy YKK zippers. Before that I put some grommets and a stiffener in the base of a small travel bag (just big enough) and secured it to the tail with paracord. That cost me $5 at a second hand store. In the past I've used a fairly expensive bag and the zippers failed (the cloth deteriorated beside the zippers). They replaced it and the same happened to the second one. Maybe go to AliExpress (the Chinese version of amazon) and search for motorcycle bags. Amazon also has quite a selection from China. They are usually very rugged for the money.
Hey Lee, thanks. I just experimented a bit. Probably helps that I'm an artist (painter). I like it also. To me it strengthens the looks and takes it away from the typical CRF 250 appearance. Keeps people guessing -- and that's always a good thing ;-)
The CRFL is one of the best values out there. With a true dual sport mind set this bike checks all the boxes. The term dual sport has been distorted (as much of the English language today). The "original" dual sports were exactly what the CRFL is, a road bike motor in mellow tune in a frame and wheel set that can ride well on pavement and dirt trails. Some how, today, we need a bike that can commute and win an MX race or it's junk.
That is so true. The CRF isn't going to win any races, but it's inexpensive, reliable, fun to ride, and fun to tweak. Exactly what it was mean't to be.
vs dr650? Or dr400?
Perfect ADD👍
@@MarcoAGonzalezS81 70 plus miles per gallon and fuel injection need I say more..
Actually Patrick Trahan raced his at the Hellas Rally in Greece and did very well,stock engine with usually mods and his own nav tower build
Your relaxed style of presentation is great.
Thanks, Sebra. I appreciate the feedback :-)
my 2014 crf250l just past over 250,000km last month.
blew front fork seals 6 times (both fronts 3 times).
rear caliper seized
rear rotor was shot
some bad corrosion on the rear rim/spokes
and thats it.
pretty good if you ask me for a quarter million km's.......
That is astounding! Thanks for chiming in and sharing that :-)
What kind of riding do you do to clock up such high mileage? Work? pleasure? Must be mind numbing on a 250 single cyl if thats mostly highway?
i swapped a 500 twin into it........ alot of highway to get to the dirt.
advrider.com/f/threads/crf500l-full-build-thread.1077236/
Mike Parry my Dmax (badged as a Holden rodeo) has done 365,000km and only had the regular things none till last month when the injectors were over halled. Is the crf250l the motorcycle version of a Isuzu? If so good stuff and back down all you BMW 650 owners with 160,000km on the clock there a new super reliable bike in town.
michaelxcx Ah yours is a twin. Great project
Canadians and Aussies do the best reviews
Thanks :-)
using metric system instead of medieval mesurement probably helps to :D
So I own a WR and have done a lot of touring on it. At 6'2 its still too tall. I have it lowered to about 35in. To me the WR is a more "dirt" oriented bike than the CRF, as the WR is built on the YZ chasis and stock the WR is better offroad, but not enough to swing the vote. However the WR sets nicely on the highway as well. I've also ridden the CRF250L a good bit and I believe they are both wonderful bikes. A person should be happy with either. Great video, cheers
For sure, the WR is a real nice bike. Better on dirt straight out of the box. As you say, both are great choices depending on finances and preferences -- and height ;-)
Thanks for the miles..I have the same bike only 13,000 ish miles.
It's nice to know the reliability is there as I do a lot of middle of nowhere desert riding.
Thanks!!!!
Super cool. Carry on :-)
I just bought a 2018 CRF250L I have a 144 miles on it, so I have a way to go to catch you.
That's true. Super cool though. Have fun doing it :-)
I have a 17 model, it doesn't break in until about 1400 miles. I could really feel a difference, not so tight. I would recommend some shenko big blocks to the factory irc's, they feel awesome on and off road.
CrackeR_TiM DNC what are “shenko big blocks”?
Tommy Ashworth I think he’s referring to the tires.
@@bushcracker8197 Yeah l have a 2018 with 8k and agree with you, At 2k the bike was as tight as the day that l bought it but over the next 1000k or so there was a noticeable difference. Changed front sprocket from 14 to 13 on day one but other than that bike is still stock.
Im glad i found your video great stuff, just about to get a 2020 black 250L.
Not my first Honda but the 4th all of them where trouble free.
2003 CRF450 great - 2007 CRF450X great - 2012 VFR800 great - had enough of the speed now i want a nice smooth chilling ride and i think this will be perfect.
Good luck with it I will be checking back on your future videos.
From what you say, I think you will thoroughly enjoy the 250L. It's a great bike. I however have just sold mine. See my latest video regarding that. ua-cam.com/video/mc2MiQIz8OM/v-deo.html Had to be done. My knees gave out; not the bike :-)
My 2013 with 30 k miles . I let it sit for 3 years under a tarp . Last week I put a new battery in it . Dumped out the 3 year old gas put fresh in . It cranked on the first try and runs like new ! I was amazed . Now I’m putting new chain tubes tires and changing all the fluids renewing my tag and I’ll be back in business . I have been thru 2 cam chain tensioners other than that just normal ware
That's great. If you tired of the stock cam chain tensioner, try the Krieger manual CCT. No worries after that; just a slight adjustment every 6 to 8,000 miles.
Thank's Scoot...another CRF250L lover here.
Cheers :-)
GREAT GREAT review.
Simple, Honest, to the point.
Thank you.
Thank you, Terry :-)
Great, love your review, especially the Angels gag. Thanks.
Haha, thanks James :-)
Buying one of these tomorrow. I'm really excited about it.
Awesome. Enjoy the heck out of it :-)
@@Scoottoots I'm sure I will. Thanks
For the money great bike I have a 2013 agree on the bigger tank
I HAVE 36,000 MILES ON MY CRF250L ...RIDE IT EVERYDAY AND IS RUNNING FINE!! OIL CHANGE EVERY 2000 (ROTILLA T6) THIRD SET OF TIRES, ADJUST THE VALVES, NEW SPARK PLUG, CLEAN AIR FILTER, AND 65 MILES TO THE GALLON!! ITS A HONDA!!
That's awesome! Exactly the way it should be. Ride instead of repair :-)
After I have seen a quiet few videos on CRF250L, I think that's going to be my next bike. I have a 2006 Shadow 750 Aero, nice! But I'm not getting that feeling, adventure kind of thing. I decided, my next bike, CRF250L.
Thank you guys, for the honest views on this one. At the beginning of my motorcycle quest, the dual sport was my goal. I don't know how I changed my mind.
Hey, but that's ok. Let's get back on riding!
It'll be a fun bike to add to your shadow. That way you'll have dedicated rides. Have a blast :-)
I have 70 miles on my 2018 Love the bike!! Great review!
Thanks. It's been a good bike for me for the last 5 years. Enjoy yours :-)
Great review, enjoyed it very much, so for I have totally enjoyed my 2014 CFR250L, I've done a few things as well, FMF muffler, Bars and protectors, small rack on the back, skid plate and I still have a few more mods to do before I'm done, and I'm gonna look into the TCT as you stated.
Thanks Heyoka. They are fun bikes for sure :-)
I've had mine since Oct of 2012, 30,000 km now. Rock solid reliable with the exception of consistently leaking fork seals over the last couple years. Looks like I'll have to bring them in to get re-sealed this winter. Other than that, reliable and most importantly a fun bike to ride (in most situations).
Absolutely, like you say, reliable and fun.
I had a 2013. clocked 60000 km, with no issues whatsoever. Changed the oil every 5000, which in my opinion is a crutial matter for holding a bike for so many km's. Now I have 2017 ABS, which is a different bike alltogether, has 30000 km's' and again, no issues whatsoever. Long distance traveling of 500+ km's are not rare with this bike. I my opinion' one of the best all around motorcycles Honda ever made.
Very cool. That's what it's all about eh. At the end of the day less headaches with maintenance equals more fun riding time and less stress.
Is the 2017 that much better?
Why do you think the 2017 is so much better????
Immediately liked and subbed when you mentioned about protecting animals from toxic coolant.
Ah thanks. It's a small thing we can do to save an animal a lot of pain and suffering.
I love your extra capacity tank.. cool how you can see the gas level.
Yup, it's pretty convenient to see the actual level rather than rely on a gauge.
Awesome bikes, i would ride my 2017 cross country. At 240lbs i still have a 8 second 0 to 60 ( few mods, exhaust and air mod ). Holds up at high rpm's like a champ.
Ah yes... they are a good bike for sure. No worries at all; just ride!
The wr has the same issue with the cam chain tensioner from what I’ve read. Seems like a cool bike! I was looking at a ktm exc but I think this would be better. I don’t ride crazy. I mainly chill. Ride safe bro
It's a good bike to chill on, and it'll handle the rough stuff well enough for those who just want to poke around. It'll get you there; just not in race fashion.
You sound just like Ray from " Love your RV". Thanks for sharing and Happy Trails
Haha, thanks :-)
You have not been broken because you drive with knowledge and common sense Also you are taking great care with your motorcycle. I think that perhaps the CRF 250 Rally model would be better for me because it is a little higher, it has a fairing, a fuel tank with 10.1 liters, etc. I am in doubt.
Yeah that Rally model is nice too. Get whatever best suits the riding you will mostly do.
Great bike, I'm loving it as a first bike. My only complaint is the skid plate clearance is not that high and I've scraped across rocks a few times with it following my brother on his DRZ400S who cleared them no problem. Other than that though, no complaints at all.
I like the Moose Racing plastic skid plate; no vibration rattle, half the weight of aluminum, and slides over rocks better than aluminum. Glad you're enjoying your 250L :-)
Scoot Toots Yeah, I got that Flatland aluminum skidplate. That sucker stick onto rocks like crazy! lol
Get a Rally...justify the purchase to yourself with the extra inch a ground clearance ;)
What's your opinion on protection from the plastic vs aluminum plate? @@Scoottoots
@@fredburris5428 I've had good success with the plastic Moose Racing plate. I've hit it pretty hard on embedded rock and stuff and no worries so far. I like that it is quiet; no resonance of engine sounds or rattles, and that it is much lighter than aluminum.
I have 23000km on it and I hope it will hold for ever. Its sooooo much fun :) I also have a Honda NC750X but the crf is just pure fun
Pure fun... that it is :-)
Not surprised that red is reliable. Can you say 450 soon, I can. However, I disagree on the wrr comparison both are close but the weight advantage of the wrr once flowing air with same mods you mention makes the wrr the boss. Again I am talking a small differences. So who cares. The low maintenance sub 360 lbs fi dual sport gives only the two choices red or blue. Pick your color and cost near you and enjoy both are great bikes. No color loyalty here.
Yeah, you're right about the WR when it receives similar mods. I should have been clear I was referring to a modded crf compared to a stock WR. The WR is quite a bit more expensive which enters my thinking on that. WR is a great bike. If I could have afforded it I might have chosen it. For me, and a lot of others, it's easier to afford slowly modding a bike. Sometimes in the end you wind up with something you prefer even if you could have afforded the more expensive bike :-)
I bought a 2018 new recently.
Just about at the break in 600 miles.
Looking forward to riding this till i die.
Fantastic. It's a keeper for sure. Enjoy that bike.
I bought a brand new 2018 CRF250L and I'm in love with my bike. I've put some extra on it and now she got style. Made a couple of vids on my channel. Good video thanks for sharing your thoughts✌🏽
Thanks. Enjoy that bike :-)
I’m looking at the 250 L rally I like the adventure set up
Yup, get the model that suits your intentions with the bike :-)
Thank you for the coolant information. Loved the video.
You're welcome, and thank you also :-)
Try cutting the tensioner's coil spring by half an inch. Made 10,000 km after doing it, tensioner is still good.
I've been using a Krieger manual CCT since then (years now) and always works perfectly. A quick adjustment every 10,000 to 15,000 kms if needed and you're golden.
Great bike 👍
I had a CRF250M for three years, rode 30,000 km, never a problem. Not that I expect any from a Honda! :)
Exactly. That's what I like :-)
I like your vids man, keep them coming.
Thanks buddy :-)
So many great reviews on different bikes it's difficult to decide. Today I've decided on a CRF250L. Yesterday it was the DRZ400. Tomorrow it will be something else no doubt. All the Japanese dual sport bikes are pretty good I think. Can't really go wrong with any of them. I think I'll just base my decision on the best deal I can find.
You're right. They are all good choices. Just get the one that best suits your preferences and budget.
Same but i dont want a drz400 because they are still running carbs i will probably end up with a crf250l tbh but i would need to change the gearing
Nice. I was hoping you would do an update on the bike.
Glad to hear you are still enjoying the crf.
Cheers :-)
I agree with everything u say I got mine and I don’t regret 👍🏻
That's great. Enjoy :-)
Great video! I love yoshi exhausts, just put an r77 on my ktm 690 enduro r an now it sounds like a proper bike
Oh yeah the Yoshi sounds good for sure. I've tweaked it to sound just how I want. 690 Enduro; nice bike!
Scoot Toots Thanks! My next bike will be something exactly like yours, the 690 can be a beast sometimes and I would like to ride a bike harder and faster then my skill level often allows lol and that’s better suited to a 250 I think
Bike looks great. I have a 2016 CRF 250l. I'm moving to the Okanagan in 2023 it would be great to be shown around.
Hey that's great. You'll enjoy the Okanagan.
Great vid, I have a crf250L 2014 and just a fantastic bike! real good review keep it up
Thanks 690. Enjoy your ride :-)
wow looking in to getting a cr250l and my surprise when you're driving 1 street over from me! I live on Richter!
It's a small world sometimes. Cool. Talk to Colin at Honda and arrange a test ride.
If Honda would sell an OEM version of this bike with the modifications you made, they’d have one hell of a dual sport.
Thanks, I like how I've set it up, although the Full Yoshi system was a love/hate relationship. Sometimes the noise grated on me.
Very good review. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers :-)
Great video Thanks and carry on with your beautiful bike.
Thank you. Sadly, I have sold the CRF now. Bad knees prevented me from continuing to enjoy riding on dirt routes in the mountains.
@@Scoottoots Try to recover with bicycle exercise and physical therapist or you can also have surgery in South Korea where you can find a lot of hospitals with very advanced medicine that can help you with very reasonable prices. .
@@jb-lu4vo Thanks for your thoughts. I'm pretty good with exercise and self therapy. I've made some great progress over the last 6 months.
I like the full gas tank. The weight should`nt effect the ride,,much. One thing i wish came on these bikes is a rpm tach. I know the 2017 up have tachs and 3rd partys make add ons. The 250l make 23 horse power. I get around 70 miles to a gallon. And use 10-50 oil. Keeps the engine noise down and doesnt get beat up as fast. The best thing one might buy is a honda factory service manual.
Yeah I mounted an aftermarket tach. Comes in useful. With the mods the HP is about 25 - 26 so not too bad now. 10W 50 eh? I find the Motul 7100 ester based snth in 10W 40 works really well for me. I run it in winter also and our summer can be very hot, so it's a good all-rounder for me.
What a nice channel .... I am going to enjoy your vids ..... :) ROFL!
Hey thanks, Jim :-)
@@Scoottoots You might like my YT friend Mark .....
We Australians are DEFINITELY "different" ..... ROFL! :)
ua-cam.com/users/BikerBitsAUSvideos
Nice update, dont think ive seen any negatives from people that have used it for its purpose, which isnt really about racing full speed through off road terrain, even after lots of miles\km like you
Thanks, It's a great bike for everything it's built for :-)
@@Scoottoots Will hopefully be joining the club this year
Thanks for the review, my dad wants a scooter, I'm trying to get him on a motorcycle like this one. 1 he would be more visible 2 though we both haven't ridden for over 20yrs we do have dirt bike experience in our past and I plus ten years street riding experience and 3 more per to get out of situations (or my concern to get into). Sending the link to him for your video
Cheers, I hope your Dad settles on the right bike for him. Yes, more visible and more visibility due to the height. Handles very nice in the city.
Hi from the BC coast, and a sincere thanks for your videos from a fellow mature rider. I hope I get that much trouble free mileage out of my XT250. It's been a dream so far (7000km in 2 years), and I'll be putting on the Shinko 700's that I bought on your advice (you have the only useful review video for the 700's BTW). I need to get them on before the rain hits this fall, down here on the BC coast, and my mostly worn DeathWings actually earn their nickname. It's going to be nice having tires that don't suck, vibrate and make me terrified to go around corners on wet roads, so thank you again for the detailed description of your experience. I won't go another winter on crappy tires.
After watching your videos, I think the comparison to make between the XT250 and the CRF250L is something like this: the XT is older technology in every way, not as good performance wise in almost every way, but all together that makes it a slightly better trail bike, while making it a fairly less capable highway bike. It also simplifies the maintenance, being air cooled, but who knows if the engine will last as well as your bike has. I will also say the XT is about right as a stock bike, for people like us who aren't trying to race, jump or do vertical trials riding. There's not much that can be done to juice it up, without spending a ton on a big bore kit, and it's still not really going to get you where you wanted to be (a new XT350 does not exist, and that WR250 is way too tall). I personally appreciate starting off 30 pounds lighter, and an inch shorter to the seat than the CRF250L. Losing the better highway performance is not a big penalty for me, because I'm stuck behind ferries in every direction, so longer road trips are the very infrequent exception to me, whereas your area is endless roads in every direction. I just stick to the secondary roads when I'm out of town, unless I have no choice but to blast the freeways and wind it out full throttle to keep up 120. The scenery sucks on freeways anyways, I'm happier going slow exploring any stupid little shitty trail, including lots of single track crap and bush bashing that the XT is ideal for. That's also a serious reason I wanted an air cooled bike, because a stick through a radiator or hose means you walk home, and coastal clear cuts have sticks that will kick up and almost break your leg, that I've put through truck rads more than once.
So, a question: how is the exposed chrome on the front fork lowers holding up? My last bike was a 1982 Yamaha SR250 (80's street style, did great for dual sport), cobbled together from 2 of them. Rust pits on the chrome were an issue that took out the forks on my first SR250, and before that also on my very first bike, an 1982 SR185. On my combined SR250 I added rubber accordion protectors, which should have been stock, in hopes not to lose a third bike to the problem. Part of my preference for the XT250 was the old-style upright forks with the rubber accordions stock, like a dirt bike should be. It seems like a serious concern, for four season riders like us, who intend to keep a bike for years. Maybe they've eliminated this issue on modern inverted forks, by making the chrome way thicker, so that regular fights with gravel just don't take any damage that actually gets through the chrome, preventing rust from ever starting. It may be that those 1980's bikes just had chrome that was too thin for the task. It's a question you may have an answer to, that would be nice to finally know.
Thanks again for all the great videos, and happy riding :)
Thanks. Your XT is a real nice bike, and it obviously suits your riding. Can't ask for more than that. Also, I agree, simpler is usually better. Air cooled is one less concern out on the trails. Less concerns equals more fun. The chrome on the forks is still flawless on my CRF. I can't see any imperfections. I know what you mean though. I have a set of forks for another bike (spare set) that are slightly pitted with rust. Take care and enjoy :-)
Hello. Was wondering how many gallons your Acerbis tank holds ?Thanks... Paul
It's 11.7 liters which is 3.1 US Gallons.
Honda is the best bike out there, I can still kick or shoot myself for getting rid of my 1984 XL350R dual purpose I still miss it to this day
They are a good bike for sure, cheers.
Ah man, what shame.. too bad you didn't keep the old XL. Those mid-80's XL's were incredibly tough bikes. I have a friend who has an '86 XL600 in original condition. It has the dual carb setup, kind of a pain it's never given him trouble other than dealing with two carbs when putting a new gasket set in them. Anyway, his XL600 is still on the road, and he rides it all the time, very cool looking bike in the red, white and blue
I have a 84 XL350R with less than 14,000 miles on it I'd like to sell, and she is in great shape for her age, I have 3 bikes I ride, 2 1984 Xl's a 250 and the 350 and my 2014 CFR250L, all nice bikes, I still have big love for those oldies, comparing the old 84 to the 2014, it is hard to compare since the mind set has change in so many years, can say one thing, those dual progressive carbs rock still to this very day, that 84 engine will whip the 2014 any day of the week.
Hit me up if your interested in that 350, @ kandiyelitile @ aol dot com peace.
@@warisbs did you sell the bike ?
Moving to Kelowna next month and thinking of buying a 250L. Where I’m from there is riding but I assume it’s totally diffrent to Canada (Australia). Do you recommend any good local trails?
Ah, you'll love Kelowna area I think. Lots of great riding areas here. Once you're here you'll see the choices. Something to suit any riding style or skill level. If you're buying a new 250L, go see Collin at the Honda Powerhouse in Kelowna.
I wonder why in many countries only the L is available. I had the M and still believe it is the better bike. Of course that depends on how you use the bike, if you're a serious off-roader then the enduro is for you. But many riders end up doing way more street than they thought and don't jump or cross rivers. The M is quite capable on fire roads and uneven surface.
But the M has a bigger front disc, the suspension is a bit stiffer (some riders complain that the L is too soft), the seat height is a bit lower because of the smaller wheels but still tall enough, and the gearing gives you a higher top speed. The two last points may even help bringing the fuel consumption down a bit.
I had tons of fun in city traffic, being a "motard-hooligan", and can only recommend this version.
Maybe Honda thinks it would take sales away from the L if they'd introduce the M but I feel riders are definitely losing out on a great bike.
If you're not familiar with the CRF250M google it, the pics posted by rideasia.net show my bike, all stock, in black with gold rims.
I agree, the M version is more suited to a lot of riders who choose the L. One of the bikes I am looking into is the DRZ 400SM supermoto. Put some Shinko 705's on that and it'd be a great road bike that is capable of some dirt on the side.
Just found your channel, really enjoyed your experiences shared on the 250L. Noticed the bash plate on your bike, looks like the Moose plastic plate. Really would like to know what you think of the Moose vs one of the aluminum versions, would you go that route again? Am also very interested to know more about manual chain tensioner. Again, great video.
Thanks Papa. Yup, that's the Moose Racing skid plate, and I absolutely prefer plastic to the aluminum. They are much lighter, they do not cause resonant or vibration noise, and they slide over rocks better. I have an Acerbis plastic plate on my crf300l for those reasons. The Manual CCT is made by Krieger Cam Chain Tensioners. It was necessary for me to go that route as three OEM units failed completely , one after the other. I came to the conclusion there was some flaw in the engine casing causing the OEM units to be positioned incorrectly. The manual unit solved the issue. Most owners do not have that problem. Cheers :-)
no no no hold up my 2013 crf250l has 53,000 miles on it and i have driven every one of them...it still runs pretty good but i would not go very fast or very far!!! best bike i ever owned.
Great, I agree, wonderful bike. Not sure what you mean by "no no no" though :-)
How much petroil you need...how big is the tank...i didnt understand, what oil and cooling you use...thanks a lot for your nice video...
I love this bike...but i would love it more, if it would have 40PS...
The Acerbis tank is 13 litres. I use Motul 7100 10W 40 oil. I use Engine Ice coolant. Thanks :-)
Just picked up a 2018 CRF250L last week. I have a massive 26 miles on it. What seat do you have on yours. I just subscribed to your channel. I will try to look around this evening to see if you have a video on it.
Hey Brandon, congrats on the purchase. I have the Spiral Step Seat. After it was broken in, I find it very comfortable. Just my impression of course, but I like it a lot. No doubt there are other seats available that are better but this one feels just right for me. I did a final review on it after a somewhat negative first impression. here is the final review: ua-cam.com/video/98E-4pNBPk4/v-deo.html
nice review! did any one told you that you sound like clint eastwood ?!
heheh, why yes they have ;-). Thanks yfroy
Are you still riding the CRF 250 L in 2020. If so what kind of mileage do you have and is it still reliable. I was a trucker for about 18 years and used to go to Kelowna about 20 times a year from Calgary or Vancouver and always enjoyed the driving in the summer with nice sights to see. One thing I liked about Honda's was that they were under powered a little but over speced which for the most part gave you years of trouble free driving such as you have enjoyed.
Yup, still riding the CRF250L as well, this year. It has 61,000 kms on it now, and yes, it's still dead reliable. No troubles at all with it. Great little bike :-)
@@Scoottoots Thanks for the prompt response I haven't run bikes for awhile but I have had a few enduro and dirt bikes such as a Suzuki ts 250 and a Honda xl 250 back in the 80's and early 90's which were lots of fun. I have run a Gsxr 750 which was fun but to much temptation for speed and my brother in Toronto area has a CBR 929 Fireblade which is like a rocket sled to hell and back with a 100 000 kilometers and still runs with no issues but insurannce is crazy so he is running a BMW 800 GS. I love the Japenese bikes that allow for modern technology that is bulletproof that allow you to hit start or kickstart and enjoy adventures without worry. Stay safe and enjoy many more miles with this or another Honda that gives you many miles of adventure and fun.
Thanks Mack. I have the best combo with the crf250l and the cb650f. Allows me plenty of range to have some fun :-)
So is it safe to say that you will notice when something is going wrong as in sounds or feels different when riding? Have about 2k miles on my 2016
Yup, you would notice something amiss. I assume you are referring to the cam chain tensioner issue I had. Most owners do not have that issue; only some do. The stock setup is somewhat noisy and that throws people off, thinking the CCT is failing, when it's just acceptable noise. If it fails the noise is quite different and you'd notice that.
Great review! I have only one question how does the bike pull on a long incline with you and your gear? I ask because I'm 109kg and would like a light bike for riding to and from trails hear in Arizona USA but due to injuries I'm unable to lift a bike any heavier then the crf250l not if i fall but when lol... do you think it could Cruze about 65mph with my 109kg?
Thanks
Thanks. Re: your question, I'm thinking it would but depends on the incline and how much gear. Top end on mine the way I have it set up is around 80 mph. A friend of mine spends winters in Arizona and rides a CRF250L also. He is about your weight and doesn't seem to have issues with keeping up speed. That said, if I were you, before investing arrange for a test ride and take it up on a decent grade; see how it does.
@@Scoottoots thank you for the reply, I will test ride one soon.
It's a honda enough said
Lawrence MacDonald but its made in india not japan like other hondas so im curious india does make good bikes but usually they cost $1200 new hahah
@@aaronsanchezz Crf s arenot made in india
@@sujalbhaktashrestha4944 i ment Thailand
Adammartini lol it not even available in india
@@dipeshlama5924 why?
Good video thanks! Do you go straight coolant or do you mix it with water?
The Engine Ice is used straight up from the bottle. I'm going to be flushing it out and changing it, using Engine Ice again, when the weather warms up some.
@@walkerskii Yeah I should do that. Thanks for subscribing :-)
Hi Scoot, What were your oil change intervals and brand of engine oil you used on your CRRF250L? Also did you ever check and have to adjust your valves?
I changed the oil approximately every 6,000 km. I used Motul 7100 Ester based full synthetic. And yes, I had the valves checked twice. The first check they are still on spec (20,000 or so km). Second check at 40,000 or so, the exhaust valves needed one shim size adjustment. I also had a leak-down test done at around 35,000 km and it was still within new bike spec. Good oil regularly changed and not spending a lot time near the rev limiter is key to long life.
Good, honest review. BR from Poland.
Thanks Eugenio :-)
Thanks for your insight. Are the black fins attached the Acerbis tank part of the original bike, part of the new tank, or a separate mod?
If you are referring to the boomerang shaped black side cover, that's the stock bike cover that I painted black.
@@Scoottoots Sorry, I saw an earlier vlog you posted and it made sense. thanks
@@mart7404 Cool :-)
nice honest video
Thanks :-)
Ive heard so much about your bike and the CCT failures. I have one of my own and have been wondering, what EXACTLY failed on the CCT? The spring broke? Seems like a pretty solid design as far as total failure.
On the first one that failed, the shaft wasn't gripped in place and had 1/4" of play, which of course took the tension off the cam chain. That was a definte faulty unit. On the successive failed units, the only thing I could think of at the time was the spring strength dimmished and no longer pushed the shaft forward. Honda verified the chain was no longer being tensioned which is why they replaced them free of charge even though warrantee was expired on the last two. When the last one failed I installed a manual CCT and that was years ago and no worries since. It's a tough one to diagnose since it's doubtful the replacements were all of the same manufacturing batch, and most owners never have this problem. Perhaps there was a flaw in stamping the casing on my engine that caused the tension arm (not the CCT) to sit incorrectly, putting the CCT at the limits of its effective travel. In handsight that's my best guess. I put a call in to Honda Customer Service head office at the suggestion of the local dealer to try to get Honda to dig deeper. They took all the details and said a tech would call back but they never did. So guesswork it is then ;-).
@@Scoottoots that definitely puts my mind at ease. I removed mine earlier today and it seemed to function properly. I reinstalled and still hear my personal "bag of marbles" riding right along with me. It really sounds like excess valve play or something loose/knocking in the valves or rockers. Atleast on my bike anyways. I saw one guy who made an adapter and retrofitted a standard tensioner onto it. But a manual tensioner is surely a complete fix. Your videos and mileage are a testamant to that. Ive considered a manual one on other bikes and even had one in my hands to install once and ended up not doing it. I just feel like it would be wayyy to easy to either be too tight or too loose. And i am a pretty serious home mechanic having rebuilt many old honda engines and others. If i ever have any inclination mine is failing i wont hesitate to install a manual one. Do you have a video of your installation? I know i could look but you probabaly know off the top of your head.
@@winstonpoplin That bag of marbles is common on these bikes, and it is the CCT creating that sound if it happens on trailing throttle and steady throttle at around 60 kph, but diasapears when you throttle on. It's what Honda calls 'normal' for that bike. I don't have an install vid on the manual unit. If you ever get one, choose the Krieger CCT. He makes them himself and does a good job of writing complete instructions, and makes himself available by phone if a person has questions. It's not difficult to install if follow the instructions. If you get it too tight you'll hear the engine whine quite audibly at low speeds such as when coming to a stop.
@@Scoottoots im checking my valves now and i swear that the cam sprockets dont like up perfectally with the head surface. Could the bike really be one tooth off?
@@Scoottoots i have inspected the CCT further and have had an idea im going to try. The tension is held by a flat type windup spring as you know. I am just gonna put a little more preload on the threaded rod before i reassemble. But the problem is i wasnt able to see how much preload was on it from the factory. So i dont know where to start really and id hate to start with too little tension and mess it up. And advice since you have disassembled one before?
oh the CCT. What everyone on YT says is the problem with a "noisy valve train" once clearance is addressed :) So I forgive Honda for that since they, IMHO, are finnicky things (although seemingly simple in construction)
A lot of these models have noisy cam chain and it doesn't become an issue. My particular issues were not the regular noisy valve train or clearance issues. Three units failed completely one after the other one year apart. In hindsight, though the design of the auto cct could be better functioning especially in cold weather operation, I think my recurrent issues were caused by a casting problem on the inner surfaces of the engine casing, possibly where the tensioner arm sits (the part the CCT presses against).
I'm hoping to purchase a second-hand one this week. Not sure I'm going to do much to it. I'd be happy to just ride it pretty-much stock. Hopefully I can secure the purchase. Can't wait. It's been a while since I last owned a motorbike (about ten years). :P
Good luck on that then. It'll be good to get back to riding :-)
great video sir, I hit the like button and subscribed and what year model is the bike?
I just bought a new one 2020 model- always loved riding I'm in western Sydney Australia
Thanks Dr Chan. It's a 2013. I purchased it new. Still loving it. Enjoy your 2020 model :-)
Your bike looks so good 👍🏾
Thanks :-)
Hello mate.
Please tell me what kind of oil do you use?
10w50 or 10w 60?
Thanks.
I use Motul 7100 full synthetic ester based 10W 40
32,932 miles . I may have missed it but how may mpg do you get with the modes you did ?
Depends on the season. In the summer months I get around 73 mpg imperial averaged out. The consumption goes way up in the winter.
I like the step down seat who makes it what model is it? Also on that bike does the speedo and light move with the hamdbars?
It's the Spiral Step Seat available from Wheeling Cycle. And yes, the light and speedo moves with the bars :-)
Crf250 with that many furlongs is about worn out. At least it needs rings piston and valves...bearings, crank, gaskets, springs, bolts,,,, bushings, injectors....frame...airbox, switches, exhaust.....cotter pins, cables, ......thats about it...just minor stuff.
Hahaha, that's was a good one :-)
Runs like new. Great condition. Just about broken in now!
@@Scoottoots the bike passes more gas than my grandmother.
What gear ratio have you gone with and been most satisfied with. I have a 13 tooth in the front, but I find second gear very tall in tight single track. Have you gone up on the back?
I've gone with 14/45. It's the same ratio as the popular 13/42. I like that as the best compromise for dirt and pavement riding. Prior to this I felt the best was 14/42, especially if I was riding on pavement primarily.
I've been running a lame 13/40 for awhile now. But I ride this little tank 10% hwy, 70% dirt road and 20% deep, difficult sand single track. I expect a lot from this bike, and so far, it keeps up with all my buds, whether it's the Tiger 800's and KLR 650s or the 250Rs...mostly ;) - it's by far the most versatile bike of the bunch (except maybe the DRZ400 guy). I thought maybe a 14/45, swapping back to the 13 tooth for a little extra for 2nd and 3rd gear if needed. Thanks Toots, I like your channel.
Wow...Kelowna is growing...I was hoping you were going to do the Knox Hill corners. :)
Hehehe, they have Knox Mountain pretty much speed controlled now. No more adrenaline rush.
awww...lol...that was a fave spot of mine. They still do the hill climb, though, right ?
Oh yeah, the Hill Climb is still a big event. Just got back from a hike on Knox!
Good review, I’m ready to buy one, I’m 58 and want a small enduro that I can ride 15 miles to see friends and ride 300 miles to big bear or lake havasu, one recommendation I have is that u try using KLOTZ MX FULL SYNTHETIC OIL- IT COMES IN DIFFERENT VISCOUSITIES AND IS SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR ENDURO MOTORS. The MX 10-40 KLOTX MX ESTORLIN 4STROKE OIL WILL LOWER UR CRANKCASE TEMPERATURE AND U WILL NOTICE A QUIETER MOTOR, I use it in my X-R 650 and have a oil temp gauge on the fill cap/ dipstick,
With the MOTOL 7100 FULL SYNTHETIC MY CRANKCASE TEMPERATURE WAS AROUND 240 DEGREES, WITH THE KLOTZ MX 10/40 ESTORLIN OIL (FULL SYNTHETIC) MY CRANKCASE TEMPERATURE DROPPED TO 215 DEGREES!! Lower temperatures equals less wear!! Check it out at KLOTZ LUBE .COM,
THEY ARE THE FIRST MANUFACTURER OF SYNTHETIC OIL - RIGHT BEFORE AMSOIL,
I HIGHLY RECOMMENDED KLOTZ OILS , U WILL NOTICE A QUIETER MOTOR AND LOWER CRANKCASE TEMPERATURE AND MORE POWER, I know, ur thinking -right, more power from a oil?? But u will, not much but ur compression is more stable with Klotz oils,
I’m not a rep or trying to shill for Klotz, I have ran it in all my bikes since my first RD-400 in 1977, I didn’t have to replace the top end on my RD for over 30k miles! It is the best oil ,
And has the racy Klotz smell-
Hi John. Thanks for the recommendation on the Klotz oil. I checked it out some. No dealers in my part of Canada though. I couldn't find a reference to the Klotz MX Estorlin you mentioned. I could see Estorlin but not with the MX designation. I saw an 'MX4 Tecniplate' for 4 stroke off road motorcycles and 'Motorcycle Techniplate' (without MX designation) for road motorcycles. Looks like good stuff. Sadly they don't provide a full tech spec on any of their oils; just basic info on their tech sheet. I've found that some of these excellent oils that outperform most are made for race applications, incorporating an additive package that excels but breaks down fast. Motul 300V for motorcycles is an example. It's a great oil but if you run it more than 2000 kms you'll experience faster wear than conventional oil. Not saying the Klotz oil you like is in that category, but I always like to see the additive package specs and get their input on how long it can be run. I like the Motul 7100 as it is ester based; a big advantage for decreased wear. Thanks again. I'm always learning, and I'll keep looking at the Klotz line.
Just subscribed to your channel, really appreciate your riding attitude. I'm just retired (61), want to get back into two wheels after almost 20 yrs away, and it seems our approach is similar, ie. fire roads, back roads, not real aggressive but adventurous, maybe some overlanding or Lk Sup circle tour?.... I'm just south of you, btw, in NE Minn. and you have really spectacular views where you are!
All that said, I'm on the fence with a '17 250L with about 2600 miles, adult mostly street ridden, or spending the extra $$ to a '23 300L and putting off so many of the great upgrades. I see you just transitioned to the 300L, so my question is: do you find enough improvement and differences on the 300L that, given the choice, is the 300L worth the reach and keeping it stock for a longer time? I appreciate the subjective nature of the question, but I'm really open to thoughts and opinions. And I welcome any and everyone's comments, too!
Again, really enjoying your videos, discoveries, adventures, etc. Keep up the great work!
Hey thanks Papa Grouch.
Great question. The 300L is a big improvement from the 250L with one downside, and that is the suspension. I personally feel the 300L suspension (primarily the shock) is much worse than the 250L. Unless you are light weight, it is a serous impediment to riding enjoyment if you enjoy pushing it now and then.
With spirited riding on twisty pavement for instance, there is a lot of wallowing and bounciness, which is a problem when transitioning from curve to curve. For trails and dirt roads it is not as big of an issue when just out exploring.
So I guess it depends on the type of riding you do, and your weight. If you can foresee upgrading the shock within a year or so, then I would say the 300L will be a more capable and enjoyable bike, and worth the money difference compared to the used 250L.
Of course the price of the 250L would be a big factor. Most of the used models I see for sale are prices fairly high. Thanks again, and good luck with your decision :-)
@@Scoottoots Gee, what took you so long to answer?? lol.. Thanks so much for getting right back to my question, yes, your reply helps a great deal in my decision making paradigm! I note your focus on the 300L is the shock vs the fork as with the 250L.. That is very interesting, but the bigger point is the bike. As for rider size, I'm a "svelt" 5'8" and about 190 lbs +/- 5, plus gear. Looking long term on down the road, as it were, I'll have to lean toward the 300L. "Buy once, cry once," as it were. Thanks again
@@papagrouch8416 Yeah I felt the forks were okay; similar to the 250L forks in feel. I upgraded both ends though. Once I got the shock, I could feel the front could be improved to get the most out of the bike long term. Many riders find the shock is acceptable, so there's variation bike to bike and varied expectations I guess. Yes, buy once cry once, then keep it forever 🙂
I'am buying this bike in may, and i wonder if you could put a list of all mods you did to yours. And got a question how did you ride the bike after you bought it?
My personal method of breaking the bike in was to ride it in stretches of fairly hard acceleration and deceleration for the first 20 miles or so; not revving it too high or anything; just putting good load on the engine, allowing it to heat cycle, and avoiding long steady stretches. After that I tried to keep it in the city ensuring lots of starts and stops, acceleration/deceleration, for the entire break in period. That ensures the rings seat and flare out nicely to provide best compression, etc. My method may not be recommended by some, so I'm not suggesting it, just saying that's what I think is best.
Mods: I should do a video on that, detailing everything I've done. I'll try and do that in the next short while. Thanks :-)
I have 25,000 miles on mine and it runs like a champ
You gotta love it :-)
I think your review along with some other eviews on this bike, I will go with the honda.
You won't go wrong with Honda :-)
I have not understood what you changed in these 53,000 km? Please, could you answer me? Thanks for your video, it is a great help to know what a great bike you have. I am very happy to know that. I always thought about buying this bike before any other.
I am not sure what you mean. Do you mean what modifications did I make since it was new?
@@Scoottoots yes please
@@Scoottoots Which part was it that broke and did you have to change? Did you mean a tensioner?
@@jb-lu4vo Yes it was the Cam Chain Tensioner. Three of them completely failed. I switched to a Krieger manual CCT to solve the issue.
The mods on the bike were:
-- Acerbis 11.7 liter fuel tank
-- Yoshimura RS4 Full System Exhaust
-- Spark Arrestor and two decibel killers
-- EJK Electronic Jet kit Fuel Controller
-- High Flow Air Filter
-- Opened out Air Box & oversize snorkel
-- Pair Valve Delete
-- DRC Silicon Radiator Hoses
-- DRD Speedometer corrector
-- Louder Horn
-- Moose Racing Skid Plate
-- Krieger Manual CCT
-- CRF150R Folding Shift Lever
-- Zeta Handguards
-- Shorty Adjustable Levers
-- Oxford Heated Grips
-- Borrego Tail Rack
-- Spiral Step Seat
-- Tail Tidy done
--Hardline Tachometer
-- Brake Speed Bleeders front and rear
-- Engine Ice Coolant
-- 14/45 Sprockets
How about on hot, Texas climates? It’s up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit this week. Could it stand that? I haven’t researched this bike much. But a lot of people here are giving it praise. Is it very reliable?
Yes it's good in the heat. It can get that hot here also and it handles it well. I use Engine Ice coolant and that lowers the temp on those hot days poking around on the dirt. Very reliable in my experience.
Scoot Toots, Ok cool. And how about the specs of it? What’s the power of it, how’s it’s handling, top speed, how many cc’s is it, etc? Anything else you can think of about it please let me know and thank you!
@@hectichive889 For a 250cc dual sport it handles well enough on pavement, including the highways (not freeways). City handling is great since it's a nimble bike and you're high up to see traffic. On rough trails it handles again well enough. It's not going to handle like a dedicated dirt bike, but it'll get you wherever you want to take it. The suspension is adequate off road unless you want to really rip it all the time. So it's a bike that handles rough off road at a conservative pace. The stock bike is about 20 hp at the crank. With stage one mods and some tweaking with the tuning, as I have done, you increase that by about 4 hp or thereabouts. It's does everything just fine in stock form though. Plus, in stock trim you get the stock economy.
Scoot Toots, So would it be fine if I mainly did this for offroad trails? I’m not trying to use this mainly for getting around, I want it to be mainly offroading but with the ability to ride on streets. So then I could also ride it to the trails I want instead of towing it around or that sorta thing.
@@hectichive889 absolutely it would be well-suited to that. As long as you don't need the power and handling of the more aggressive dual sports, it'll be a good choice. If you like pushing it super-hard on rough terrain and want a bike that'll handle that with finesse, then you'd be wise to look into the KTM 250 or 350 EXC. A lot more pricey to purchase and maintain, and perhaps not as good on the highways as the CRF250L. Choices :-)
What year is your CRF250L? How much HP do you think you are making, and also what is your average MPG? I have a 2017 CRF250L ABS with 7,700KM on it so I am just curious. Thanks!
It's a 2013. I figure maybe I'm getting about 22 HP to the wheel, though I haven't checked it on a dyno. MPG in Imperial measures range from 63 to 75 depending on how the Fuel controller is set and for highway riding, the gearing.
Scoot Toots Sounds right on point. Nice bike by the way!
I'm looking at a "fleet" maintained bike (Adventure company) used 2017 for $3K on CL right now...very tempting
I hope whatever decision you make works well for you :-)
Crf 250l is best i have one is park in philipines runs good only problems is front forks leaks im going to instal Race Tech fork spring and once replace starter relay coling fan
gott so hot burn .I drove to river under water and i still a live no problem best bike
Good stuff. The Racetech fork upgrade is a good idea. I may do that as well. Leaky forks can usually be fixed with a Seal Mate strip. They normally just need cleaning under the seal to stop the leak.
Good review sir. If I may ask whats the top speed on this. can it keep up on the freeway. Im
looking at one of these as a cheep commuter bike. mostly on road back and forth to work in
the spring & summer months. maybe a little of road now an then on weekends.
Hey Gerald, top end on mine is around 130 kph or 80 mph (corrected) without revving the heck out of it through the gears to get there. Of course gearing and terrain will change that. 14/42 gearing would be a good choice for commuting and off road. As for mods, I'd say maybe just an EJK fuel controller at the Dobeck settings for a stock bike, plus opening the air box out and either clipping the backfire screen off, or installing a K & N filter. That way you get a little extra punch but keep the cost down to around $300 for the mods. Sounds like you might want to also look at the DR650. Way better commuter and still capable enough for moderate off road.
What tires do you like for commuting? Also what rear tire size are you currently running?
I prefer Shinko 700 front and rear for a true dual sport tire. Performs really well on pavement and descent on dirt in my area. 3 x 21 up front and 4.60 x 18 in the rear.
Any plans to ever big bore the bike? Or u happy with where it's at now with the power mods?
I doubt it. For the use I put it to it has well enough power. I'm happy with it as is. Lots of options though for more power if I wanted. It's possible to get this bike to 29 to 30 HP without going big bore.
do you ride off road much? Looks so clean! I'm on a Africa Twin but would love to have one of these for some of the tougher off road stuff I enjoy, the AT is just way to heavy
Yeah I rode off road a fair bit. Maybe 50%. Hard to say. It's not dirt bike proficient, but it's adequate to take into really rough stuff. it'll get you through pretty much anything. You just won't be able blast through the technical stuff.
@@Scoottoots thanks for your reply and video!
I just bought a crf250L a few days ago, flash flood on the day I got it delivered, and a sudden leg problem is keeping me from putting even a single mile on it
Oh, that sucks. Well I hope the water subsides and your leg gets better real soon!
I have a 2017 bought it new could not beat the price of 5k out the door. I plan to ride a good bit this year. I changed the rear sprocket to sunstar 42t. Any recommendations on a good tail bag that won't break the bank?? I do have a rear rack. Ty
Honestly, I tend to use very inexpensive tail bags. I either convert a small bag intended for other uses or I order a Chinese bag. The bag I currently use for the last couple years cost me $10 with free delivery. It's somewhat small but holds the necessary stuff in case I have problems on the ride. Very rugged with heavy YKK zippers. Before that I put some grommets and a stiffener in the base of a small travel bag (just big enough) and secured it to the tail with paracord. That cost me $5 at a second hand store. In the past I've used a fairly expensive bag and the zippers failed (the cloth deteriorated beside the zippers). They replaced it and the same happened to the second one. Maybe go to AliExpress (the Chinese version of amazon) and search for motorcycle bags. Amazon also has quite a selection from China. They are usually very rugged for the money.
How did you get this color scheme? Looks great
Hey Lee, thanks. I just experimented a bit. Probably helps that I'm an artist (painter). I like it also. To me it strengthens the looks and takes it away from the typical CRF 250 appearance. Keeps people guessing -- and that's always a good thing ;-)
Nice review and bike. but that yoshi would drive me insane
Haha, it drove me a bit crazy at times; gotta admit.
Very tidy. What seat brand are you using with the enlarged fuel tank. TX (2019 crf 250L)
Thanks Robby. It's the Spiral Step Seat purchased through Wheeling Cycle. Rather inexpensive compared to most.
Make a video about all of your upgrades
I'll be doing that sometime soon I think :-)
iv had my crf250l for 3 months from brand new now and iv put 3200km and im very satisfied even more satisfied with the twobrothers s1r
Good that you're riding it and enjoying it :-)