Same as everyone, after 6 years leaks from bottom of door (mostly left and right sides, and no water underneath so I could rule out a lot) during start and end of cycle suddenly. I was sure it was the Float Switch, bought 2 for $25 and replaced to no effect. Tested the Lower Spray Arm by putting pressurized water into intake and NO LEAKS found anywhere around the seams, just water coming out of the nozzles/spray holes like intended ...so it looked like no way it was the arm ...but then I saw this video and decided to give duct tape diagnosis a try, and it worked!!! I put tape around the entire edged, making sure not to obstruct the nozzles/spray holes or the part where it spins and attaches to dishwasher. Not sure about trying to fix as a lot of you mentioned the toxicity (albeit low) as well as high heat etc which means I'm just going to buy a replacement. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR VIDEO!!!
YOU ARE EPIC AND A TRUE DIY'ER!!!!!!! I've been chasing this issue for 6 months now, and I almost pulled the pin and bought a new one. I've taken this thing apart more than my racecar, bought so many parts and have gotten no where thanks so very much. I consider myself a pretty handy person, but it's guys like you that keep the DIY'ers like us going. Thanks and Cheers!!!
I got the same issue and the appliance repair dude asked me to replace the whole door or buy a new dishwasher, duct taped the Lowe r sprayer and the water leak stopped, Thank you so Much , your video saved me from spending crazy $$$
Bro, you're a genius. Been washing dishes by hand for a month. Periodically pulling the dish washer out to try and diagnose. Was literally to order a dishwasher when I decided to take one final look. Happened across your video and it clicked right at 151. I feel so stupid, I associated the leak with the spraying cycle. I literally pulled the front cover off so I could watch the water build up and overcome the bottom door seal. The spray arm height aligns Perfectly with the bottom seal. Took the spray arm out and the seal down both sides of the arm had come apart in certain areas. Just tested with duct tape and no leaks! Thank you thank you thank you!!!!
If it happens again, it’s should be easy to swap the upgraded spray arm that you have for the “lower” tier spray arm that I don’t think has experienced this issue as much if it all. I had the model just under yours for 5-6 years with no spray arm leakage issues. The one you have was an upgrade that used higher pressure, but looks like they didn’t properly reinforce the seams. I feel like this is part of why they switched to the majority of washers having stainless steel arms for some years after your model. Good on you for actually taking the time to diagnose it. It’s a simple problem but I’ve seen many of these otherwise decent washers junked/being sold for repair because people don’t want to take the time to try and fix things.
@elyadg i would try duct tape first and see if that stops the leak which tells you it's likely the spray arm. JB did not work for me to reglue the arm, but the mix ratio was probably wrong. A new arm for me was $50 and after checking with tape, I'd go that route unless you're really pressed to save money
@@MBNB85 I spent too much already. Here in Canada, they want $130 plus tax. Amazon $68 canadian. I glued it up last night for $18 glue. Going to try later today, wish me luck. If not, Amazon.
@M_dot202 i asked jb weld what they'd recommend for this application and the black (not tan) plastiweld they recommend is a polyurethane that cures to be safe for use around food, they said. Polyurethane is a common coating for furniture and flooring. I had planned to run a few cycles without dishes to wash whatever residue might have remained but went the route of replacing the arm after my mix ratio was off and it didn't work. There were plaves that did cure and the cured black plastiweld seemed just like the plastic housing as far as hardness and scratch resistance.
@michaelrosenow4239 regular jb weld to re-glue the upper/lower arm halves? No, it failed after a few washes. I tried JB plastic bonder (the black, not the tan colored version) at jbweld co's recommendation, but I'm pretty sure I got the mix ratio wrong or didn't fully mix well as some sections cured and others were still tacky/slightly runny after 24 hours. The cured sections wouldn't come apart and the tacky sections leaked so I had to junk it and buy a new part at that point. If you do try to glue it, make sure your epoxy is well mixed in the right ratio.
I have had a dishwasher kicking my butt for leaks. It wouldn’t leak when I was onsite but I could see the water pooling up in the front seal area when the lower arm sprays. Took the arm out and sure enough looks like the seam is splitting. Saw some food debris halfway through the seam that supported the idea. Ordered a spray arm for her and hoping this solves the dreaded problem
Do you have any video of the leak? And/or pictures? I took mine out and squirted the garden hose into and saw some water bubbling through the seams but not pouring out. I have the same leak and can see it in action bc it correlates with the spray arm rotating. Just not sure if this is my issue. QUITE a bit of water comes out during a full cycle. The gasket looks ok… but again not wanting to throw money at it as we’ve already spent more than we should have on this POS….
@michaelrosenow4239 duct tape the edge where the upper/lower halves meet and run it. I did that and it stopped. Obviously it won't last a whole wash, so tape it and see vs how it was without. If it doesn't leak, I would bet it's the arm. I spent ~ $65 on a new one.
@ASMR_on_location no. Likely food got stuck in there and what's coming out is old food that's had time to turn into black gunk. I would run a cup of mild vinegar or mild bleach solution on a hot cycle to see if that cleans it up
I tried jb weld and it did not hold. JB weld recommend the black (not tan) plastiweld. I pulled the arm apart, removed any of the old jb weld, cleaned and dried the joining surface and tried the plastiweld. I applied it and it didn't hold in a few spots. think my mix ratio was incorrect. I ordered a new arm for $55. While waiting for the new arm, I screwed the plates together near the edge and plastiwelded the top and bottom of the screw which did hold and made me think my mix ratio was off. Plastiweld was $8 so decide if saving the difference vs buying a new arm is worth it.
I think this is the answer to my problems. I’m in Canada and a new spray arm is $125 🙄 so I think I’ll try and repair the existing. You saved me the headache of trying to replace the bottom door seal tomorrow morning.
@jeffouellette4853 bear in mind there are internal parts that move so locate your screw accordingly. You may have to pull the arm top and bottom apart to see the optimal spot. I used a stainless steel screw. A bolt would work well also if you predrill a hole.
Same as everyone, after 6 years leaks from bottom of door (mostly left and right sides, and no water underneath so I could rule out a lot) during start and end of cycle suddenly. I was sure it was the Float Switch, bought 2 for $25 and replaced to no effect. Tested the Lower Spray Arm by putting pressurized water into intake and NO LEAKS found anywhere around the seams, just water coming out of the nozzles/spray holes like intended ...so it looked like no way it was the arm ...but then I saw this video and decided to give duct tape diagnosis a try, and it worked!!! I put tape around the entire edged, making sure not to obstruct the nozzles/spray holes or the part where it spins and attaches to dishwasher. Not sure about trying to fix as a lot of you mentioned the toxicity (albeit low) as well as high heat etc which means I'm just going to buy a replacement. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR VIDEO!!!
YOU ARE EPIC AND A TRUE DIY'ER!!!!!!! I've been chasing this issue for 6 months now, and I almost pulled the pin and bought a new one. I've taken this thing apart more than my racecar, bought so many parts and have gotten no where thanks so very much. I consider myself a pretty handy person, but it's guys like you that keep the DIY'ers like us going. Thanks and Cheers!!!
I got the same issue and the appliance repair dude asked me to replace the whole door or buy a new dishwasher, duct taped the Lowe r sprayer and the water leak stopped, Thank you so Much , your video saved me from spending crazy $$$
@@yuvasamrat20 in glad you tried fixing it. I was in the same boat.
Bro, you're a genius.
Been washing dishes by hand for a month. Periodically pulling the dish washer out to try and diagnose. Was literally to order a dishwasher when I decided to take one final look.
Happened across your video and it clicked right at 151.
I feel so stupid, I associated the leak with the spraying cycle. I literally pulled the front cover off so I could watch the water build up and overcome the bottom door seal. The spray arm height aligns Perfectly with the bottom seal.
Took the spray arm out and the seal down both sides of the arm had come apart in certain areas.
Just tested with duct tape and no leaks!
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!
Genius. I cleaned it and found an objective and no more leakage!
I got the same dishwasher same problem. Bought a new lower spray arm works perfect now.
Nicely done! Thank you for sharing. Helped me out a boat load.
If it happens again, it’s should be easy to swap the upgraded spray arm that you have for the “lower” tier spray arm that I don’t think has experienced this issue as much if it all. I had the model just under yours for 5-6 years with no spray arm leakage issues.
The one you have was an upgrade that used higher pressure, but looks like they didn’t properly reinforce the seams. I feel like this is part of why they switched to the majority of washers having stainless steel arms for some years after your model.
Good on you for actually taking the time to diagnose it. It’s a simple problem but I’ve seen many of these otherwise decent washers junked/being sold for repair because people don’t want to take the time to try and fix things.
The repair guy couldn't find anything! $200 later he gave me some suggestions and a good luck. That's got to be it! Thanks. i"m off to get the JB.🖖
@elyadg i would try duct tape first and see if that stops the leak which tells you it's likely the spray arm. JB did not work for me to reglue the arm, but the mix ratio was probably wrong. A new arm for me was $50 and after checking with tape, I'd go that route unless you're really pressed to save money
@@MBNB85 I spent too much already. Here in Canada, they want $130 plus tax. Amazon $68 canadian. I glued it up last night for $18 glue. Going to try later today, wish me luck. If not, Amazon.
hi I have the same model and same issue. does the duct tape stay holding even in water and spinning? thanks
@@yougyal1 to be clear, the tape is only used to diagnose if the lower spray arm is separated. It's not meant to repair the arm.
Is JB weld food (dishes, cups, utensils) safe?
@M_dot202 i asked jb weld what they'd recommend for this application and the black (not tan) plastiweld they recommend is a polyurethane that cures to be safe for use around food, they said. Polyurethane is a common coating for furniture and flooring. I had planned to run a few cycles without dishes to wash whatever residue might have remained but went the route of replacing the arm after my mix ratio was off and it didn't work. There were plaves that did cure and the cured black plastiweld seemed just like the plastic housing as far as hardness and scratch resistance.
Did the JB Weld work? Permanently? Any pics of that?
@michaelrosenow4239 regular jb weld to re-glue the upper/lower arm halves? No, it failed after a few washes. I tried JB plastic bonder (the black, not the tan colored version) at jbweld co's recommendation, but I'm pretty sure I got the mix ratio wrong or didn't fully mix well as some sections cured and others were still tacky/slightly runny after 24 hours. The cured sections wouldn't come apart and the tacky sections leaked so I had to junk it and buy a new part at that point. If you do try to glue it, make sure your epoxy is well mixed in the right ratio.
I have had a dishwasher kicking my butt for leaks. It wouldn’t leak when I was onsite but I could see the water pooling up in the front seal area when the lower arm sprays. Took the arm out and sure enough looks like the seam is splitting. Saw some food debris halfway through the seam that supported the idea. Ordered a spray arm for her and hoping this solves the dreaded problem
@DillonCoughlin easiest way to check is cover the splits with duct tape so it doesn't jet horizontally and see if it leaks
Do you have any video of the leak? And/or pictures? I took mine out and squirted the garden hose into and saw some water bubbling through the seams but not pouring out. I have the same leak and can see it in action bc it correlates with the spray arm rotating. Just not sure if this is my issue. QUITE a bit of water comes out during a full cycle. The gasket looks ok… but again not wanting to throw money at it as we’ve already spent more than we should have on this POS….
@michaelrosenow4239 duct tape the edge where the upper/lower halves meet and run it. I did that and it stopped. Obviously it won't last a whole wash, so tape it and see vs how it was without. If it doesn't leak, I would bet it's the arm. I spent ~ $65 on a new one.
This is fantastic.
Was the arm still rotating, or was it siting still while spraying water?
@danharp7273 don't know for certain. I suspect it was rotating still, just enough water was escaping the side to cause the issue
Hey bro if this message reaches you, that lower spray arm, when you cleaned it out was the crud coming from it black
@ASMR_on_location no. Likely food got stuck in there and what's coming out is old food that's had time to turn into black gunk. I would run a cup of mild vinegar or mild bleach solution on a hot cycle to see if that cleans it up
Good content 👌 👏
Thank you.
My problem exactly! Thanks for posting this. Did you resolve it with gluing the spray arm?
I tried jb weld and it did not hold. JB weld recommend the black (not tan) plastiweld. I pulled the arm apart, removed any of the old jb weld, cleaned and dried the joining surface and tried the plastiweld. I applied it and it didn't hold in a few spots. think my mix ratio was incorrect. I ordered a new arm for $55. While waiting for the new arm, I screwed the plates together near the edge and plastiwelded the top and bottom of the screw which did hold and made me think my mix ratio was off. Plastiweld was $8 so decide if saving the difference vs buying a new arm is worth it.
@@MBNB85 Thanks for those details. New arms are 70-90 on amazon and apparently don't hold up. The screws plus glue are a good idea.
I think this is the answer to my problems. I’m in Canada and a new spray arm is $125 🙄 so I think I’ll try and repair the existing. You saved me the headache of trying to replace the bottom door seal tomorrow morning.
@jeffouellette4853 bear in mind there are internal parts that move so locate your screw accordingly. You may have to pull the arm top and bottom apart to see the optimal spot. I used a stainless steel screw. A bolt would work well also if you predrill a hole.
@@MBNB85 I don't think those are food grade. Could be dangerous to eat off dishes that are washed.