Victor Boucher yeah they put it in a lot of snow jackets too! We say our van has a jacket now haha! But you’re right! It is our build and we are just trying to show people easy ways to DIY their van. It’s a huge intimidating project, we are hoping to dumb it down, get people thru it and living their best nomadic life, without getting caught up on the very “best way” to do something.
Collecting my new 4x4 MWB sprinter end of March 2020.. Think the video was very informative.. Did llok up 3m insulate butnotavailable in the UK.. Thinking of using YBS SuperQuilt.. But some great demonstations. Thanks
Before you spend one dime on insulation, fix all the leaks. Buy a tube of seam filler. Run a water hose over the van everywhere and check for leaks. Stop water leaks first, you don't want wet insulation inside your van. Mold, mildew and smells is all you get on your pretty insulation.
Very good advice! Luckily we had this van for six months prior to building and it showed no leaks after a long winter in the sierras. Thanks for watching!
i would get my van in couple months. im planning to get noico or kilmat sound deadening material as a shield on the metal to reduce condensation and use 2" GPS rigid foam board +fabric/wool insulation to fill the gap. i think the -20c -30c winter will produce lots condensation and breathable insulation might help retain and drying out moisture. sealing them might just create water pool somewhere my eyes wont be able to reach
Not to burst your bubbles:Think of heat as light, it bounces of reflective surfaces, so your design would be great for a cold climate application, however your reflective bubbles just become plain plastic bubbles at best in the reverse situation, in other words, kind of expensive for bubble rap!
eric vynckier haha I see what you did there 😏 we really don’t find reflectix that expensive. But it’s all relative! Thanks for watching and commenting!
This van just had reflector to save headroom. Another good option is poly-iso foam + wooden slats. Check out our masterclass for more! www.vankookz.com
Just reflectix I would use a poly iso foam for the floor and add some wood slats as well. I’m just too tall and can stand with any extra insulation. It doesn’t do much but it is at least a thermal barrier.
So I bought a transit connect and the oem black rubber floor had a insulation pad underneath and it was wet just from condensation. So it makes me scared to put insulation and reflectix down because it's going to trap moisture underneath and it will be a hot moldy soup. Anyone else run into mold problems doing it their way?
Hi, nice work but I’m very surprised you haven’t used any type of sound deadening material on this build. That’s quite a big van, with some large metal panels that will resonate like hell when travelling. At least you are installing insulation, I see so many stateside van conversions where a log burner or a diesel heater is given priority over insulation.
Hey thanks Andy. You are right. Don't skip the sound proofing. Take it from too kooks that did! They really make a difference in road noise. There are enough things rattling around while driving why have extra road noise? Anyways, this was the first time that we had skipped soundproofing to see, does this make a difference? Yes, it does!
Go and watch the insulation videos by Greg Virgoe and also the Restoration Couple for explanations of how sound deadening, insulation, and vapor barriers actually work and how to use them properly. Also check out the video by The Frugal Factor on why you need to seal the surface of every piece of wood you use in your van.
I wounder why you didn't add radiant barrier between the thinsulate and the reflectix? The 1/2 to 1 inch gap that everyone recommends. I have installed thinsulate and definitely putting the gap in on the ceiling.
ThisSpotRules! We were worried about that with the spray foam. But we have an environmental engineer friend that said the 3M spray is only volatile when it is sprayed and drying. She said if you can smell the product you should still be wearing a filtered mask. Otherwise, living in the space after it has cured is fine she said.
May I ask why you have to add reflectix on top of the thinsulate? Also why the wheelwells are covered by reflectix but not thinsulate as well? And wouldn't the weight would crush the reflectix on the floor?
With this van we only used reflectix. The T1N Sprinter is shorter than all other sprinter models so headroom was very important. The client wanted to be able to stand up inside the van so we went with minimal insulation on the floor. The reflectix is really just used as a vapor barrier at this point, it most likely doesn't add any insulation value. If you wanted more you can use Poly Iso Foam board (R-Max) on the floor to give you good insulation on the floor. Or you can frame out the ribs and raise the floor up a bit.
we've been in 110 degree weather in Auburn, California and -8 in Taos, NM. If you are in the cold, your insulation will also insulate the cold, inside the van. So you will want a heater, for sure, if you are going to be in cold, below freezing ,weather. Once you get the van warm from your heater, it will hold the temp for quite sometime before you need to re-heat.
In our vanbuild that we live in, we used a dynamat type(rattletrap) first, like you say. That’s optional for sound noise. Since we found out that thinsulate is a sound barrier as well, we opted to not spend the money on dynamat on this build, but I can’t tell if it makes a difference or not on our build we live in...
You aren't a DIY guy yet. No one will do this. These van conversion companies are out there raping people on prices. So get all the supplies in the description and get to work!
Should be a reasonable gap. I'm assuming they'll have to use framing to be able to put on wall paneling. That framing would create the vapor barrier on its own.
No framing on the floor. Yes all cabinets are installed into the wood framing that we attached to the vans metal ribs you can see how we did it here ua-cam.com/video/-DhqKWSUzVc/v-deo.html.
@@Vankookz My LWB Sprinter came with a 8mm thick floor in two pieces. Replaced it with 18mm ply in 4 pieces. Ran it from touching the base of the seat to the back door. There is no rule book for converting a van.
77mucha hey thanks! yes, that is true. We have it touching where the framing is... it kinda floats where it isn’t behind framing. Then the silver tape to connect the edges! Still not sure how to get an air gap without it touching something somewhere 🤔
Crusty Clad bubble wrap! Ok there’s an idea. I knew we would be getting a bunch of “you’re doing it wrong” on the insulation, thanks for the tip! Next time we will try that so we don’t create thermal bridges, but honestly we have lived in our sprinter for 2+ years with the way we’ve done it here and in the summer it stays cool and the the winter it holds in the heat from our heater. There is so much stuff in our sprinter like clothes, bikes, food, etc, which all act as plenty more insulation in there. People take this insulation too seriously. But I only find it’s a controversy with sprinter type builds. With the VW, no one cared to tell us we were doing it wrong or right. Most of the prefab vans have shit stock insulation , which is what we found out with the VW, it had no insulation coming from the 80s. Thanks for watching!! And we will def try to look over all these tips in the comments about how to do it better in our next build!
SAY WAIT!: A super cheap greatly overlooked free insulation material for what you might use to stuff into cavities in a van is used poly fill-pillow filling that you can fairly easily get for free from people's warn discarded sofa's are often found next to apartment dumpsters OR the Foam From the discarded Seat Cushions-New foam is Very expensive but this foam is FREE and should also sound deaden much! The cushions often have zippers or just cut the seat open. To cut foam to desired size and shapes, I use a hack saw taken out of it's holder, holding the blade loose in hand and saw back and forth although it does not work as quick and precise as an electric meat knife, it works ok. Don't use fiberglass insulation that goes in house attics, I think the loose fibers would get into your lungs no matter what. Also note that the stuff in used sofa's have been covered and protected by the outer fabric so it's usually in pretty good shape. Because any soft pillow pads or pillow backs can be full of the stuff. Just cut open with a knife to find out and take what you want before the garbage company crushes the sofa. Of course you'd want to give it a quick close scan smell with your nose on it in case it has pet urine but really most apartment deter pets by either not allowing pets or they charge a lot to have them. Manufacturers make the poly basically from plastic bottles and it's fluffy and no one is allergic to it and it doesn't make you scratch and it doesn't absorb water and although it isn't as good of an insulation as foam, it does insulate by holding the air in it's fiber fluff pockets. Of course you can buy it new in bag at hobby departments but it can be kind of expensive and why buy new when you can get for free and save the environment from more new plastic?! What could be cheaper? Thanks for your videos! I like the shiny silver!
Hmmm very interesting I've never heard of this option but seems like a great way to reuse and upcycle what would go into the landfill. Thanks for watching.
this is a great idea, the overstuffed $5 pillows at walmart or target would be a good source. Now i know how i'll insulate those rib pockets. I'm not too enthusiastic about finding the stuff used though, as it is bound to be inundated with someones saliva, or fart distillate.
Max Stevenson well at $5 a pop, it will take a surprising amount to fill all the pockets and if we really cared about our planet, we would strive to use used. We are pushing the planets off our planet. What if we get reincarnated and have to face the mess and reduced standard of living? It’s protected by the fabric, especially the seat pillow backs. If your concerned about it not being clean, you can hose it off with the garden hose and then let it dry in the sun. Guaranteed to wash the farts out! It drys fast because it is plastic. It’s nicely bundled by people putting weight in it. That’s my 2 cents! Take care!
Hi Aruba! Well I am keeping my 15 passenger van original mostly with the plastic panel walls and carpet and headliner. Because I want a party, road trip/light camping with friends pulls boat trailer van. So I’ve gotten rid of the 4th bench seat and rearranged/rebolted the 3 bench seats into a C shape lounge setting when you enter the side barn doors. The original bench seats are very strong and can be slept on and/or legs under the benches on the floor. The carpet is worn out but I’ve cleaned it and it has a heavy rubber backing attached to it and some jewt backing so very good for sound deafening. I am adding on top, some affordable exterior black carpet from Lowe’s and used carpet pad under the it all plus carpet pad cut to fit the floor metal ribs to level the ribs out and sleeping comfort. For insulation used polyfill from dumpster side pillow top sofas and chairs. Stuffed the polyfill in all wall cavities and the doors(but avoid the moving windows and door lock mechanism areas. For the ceiling, cut and place poly/Dacron batting from the used sofas. The polyfil is usually clean and if you pull some out of a sofa and it’s dirty like someone spilled their soda on the sofa, you can still use if you just hose the pile off and let it dry in the sun. It’s plastic so it doesn’t absorb moisture or dirt. Take care
Ic ic Well what is your goal for how you will use the van? I would say you definitely have to insulate some since you can for free. Mine is just a party van but I insulated. It will help the AC cool faster and heater heat better and last longer when off and keep the sun off in the summer. People say they regret they didn’t or it made such a difference or to always insulate. Mine has all windows so going sacrificing walls width with more insulation probably won’t make much difference. If your living in your van in cold or hot places then you’ll want to insulate more. Watch videos and vanlife sites for more info. Insulation people buy to use is fiberglass is aweful for lungs, no one uses it much anymore. Spray commercial insulation is expensive and very tricky and messy. Ridgid foam board has a high r value and is sold in home improvement stores. Loose fill recycled denim is expensive and absorbs moisture. Loose wool is expensive. For loose fill free polyfill is the way to go if you ask me. I am using spray can foam for the inner roof to wall gap because it will set firm and give the starting edge support from the walls. The van roofs are weak and designed so weight carrying brackets always attach to the strong wall supported rain gutters. But it’s nice to strengthen the roof if you can because it’s nice to be able to stand on it when needed to take things on and off the roof racks. Whatever inner ceiling you install you might consider if it can add support to the roof at the same time.
There are so many roots for the cold to come into the van from the van sides roof and floor I do not believe it is possible to correctly insulate a van.
To a certain point everything you will put in this van is toxic. I recommend with the thinsulate to open it up and roll it out and let it off gas for a few days. Or install it all and leave the van doors open and circulate some fresh air in there. The most toxic thing in almost the entire build process is the 3M spray adhesive. This stuff is no joke. This is when wearing a N95 mask actually makes since. I wear a mask almost the entire build process. Saw dust, paint off gassing, all kinds of shit can get into your system. It’s all about minimizing your exposure. The solution to pollution is dilution. So minimizing where you can is your next bet. This isn’t a very highly toxic material but yes 3M is not to be trusted. Look at what they did with Teflon.
It would be more beneficial if you spoke about why you chose the methodology and materials you did. No mention of the thermal insulation ratings based on thickness, you just spoke about how it wicks away moisture. That in itself is dead wrong, you don’t want to wick up moisture with insulation as it just turns to black mold because it can’t go anywhere. You want to prevent moisture in the first place and you have left no accommodation between the walls and insulation to breath or vent. There really is no ‘controversy’ over insulating a van like you’ve mentioned, it’s just simple science. Most people don’t take the time to educate themselves as to the physics of these things. Even applying Reflectix is done wrong. As others have mentioned, you must leave an air gap between the Mylar and your next barrier, preferably an inch for it to be effective. This has been covered over and over again ad nauseum here on UA-cam but to no effect, people still place their covering materials in contact with the Reflectix ruining any insulation value at all. A good understand for small enclosure insulation can be had by reading NASA’s methodologies for space capsule insulation from the early 60’s. There’s no ambiguity or “controversy” as to how things should done. This is old proven science and developed long before most viewers were born, the laws of physics haven’t changed. A little search, a little critical and analytical thinking on the science behind these things, will certainly go a long way to prevent people from doing and spending needlessly on the wrong things.
Well they are building an air barrier to prevent moisture and using the reflectx as a moisture barrier it seems. There is also the insurable inside the reflectx acting as an air barrier. Btw this is van using affordable materials not a NASA space ship using high tech heat exchangers to control temp. Actually surprised havnt seen a good designed heat exchange system in a van yet.
The trick to fighting Radiant heat. Is too cover all the support pillars with Radiant Barrier. Then foil tape all the seams. As any metal in contact with the outside. With conduct heat\cold right into the RV... Thus bypassing your insulation..Windows are the worst.. And you don't have to glue every inch.. You just want it to stay in place.. Till you install the Barrier and walls...As the adhesive will turn to dust in 5 years anyways...Why I use Foil tape around the edges. It stays till you pull it off... And yes My friend built costume RV's for years. He taught me all the myths and correct ways to use materials. That included using Automotive grade SXL wiring and NMT conduit. As you have to treat an RV as a Vehicle. Not a house. As your house is not driving around on rough roads. Sudden changes in weather. Vibration etc...
Linda Deneher totally! We did a whole rust removal with Raptor liner paint in another video. We are always dealing with rust with these sprinters! In our current van we live in, we raptor lined the inside of the floor (under the subfloor) as well. I would totally recommend doing that. (It Gives you maybe a couple r-values and it deals with the rust on the floor) thanks for watching and pointing that out!
Kenny. You still watching van build videos? Lol. You the master bro. Awesome you are still learning. I'm gonna pick up my 4*4 sprinter tomorrow I think. I'll be checking your channel, this channel, will prowse, and seven o Savage for sure. I'm debating whether to go with extruded aluminum like you did, or try to learn how to weld like Dani did. Both badass
Insulation is not controversial it is just misunderstood. If you want the TRUTH about van insulation see YT Channel @Greg Virgoe. He is the benchmark by which all other van builds are measured.
Greg did a very similar job with his ceiling and walls except he used Rockwool which is an inferior product to Thinsulate for this application because it holds moisture and will mold.
@@ohiomoto see, there is the misunderstanding. Insulation is a SYSTEM not a product. Greg will not have a moisture problem because he totally understands the science of the insulation SYSTEM. And I guarantee you THINSULATE does not have superior thermal properties compared to the products Greg used.
The Bicycle Engine hey thanks! We will check him out! We just did the van the exact same way we did the sprinter we live in now, because it works. It’s gotten completely soaked in a two day rainstorm from a leak in our tail light. The entire cavity above the back doors where the brake light is housed was full of water. Once we got the water out, the thinsulate just dried pretty quickly and looked as if nothing happened. No smell or anything. So there’s no way after two years of keeping a temperate van were we gonna try anything else. But I will check out this Greg guy! Thank you!!
IF it happens to get wet it will be superior!! Haha. I respect Greg and love his videos. He even mentions some of the shortcomings or these products in his videos. Ultimately he declared it was "good enough" for his purposes and that's what matters.
Right on, Kookz! I totally agree that Thinsulate is the way to go, easy to install and really works. I also fished strips thru my roof ribs and covered the wheelwells with it. Great stuff, no reason to cheap out on one of the most important parts of the build. Stoked to see you guys documenting another project! How come Dani’s hands weren’t as bloody as mine when she got done?!
SC Nomad yes, we totally did that on the first Sprinter! Taped up all the holes, taped a piece to some string and suck it thru with a vacuum! Covering the wheelwells, damn I love that idea. We should have done that. Probably still can! Haha 😂 you’re hands were bloody from the thinsulate install?!
ME TOO! Love the bed design we've seen on your Instagram stories, can't wait to see how you made it in your UA-cam videos. Never seen an extending rock n roll bed!
I don't want to start the controversy, but how would thinsulate stand up to Canadian winter temps. I'd like to build a van for ski trips and figured spray in insulation would be the best, if expensive, choice. Looking forward to watching the build!
Greg Watson as long as you have a heat source, aka snugger, webasto or even a mr buddy might do it. But we have stayed in as cold as -13c in the van with Thinsulate and it was snug with the heater. But if you are really going for that high R Value, I would do the spray foam. We just wanted to avoid the mess! Thanks for watching Greg! Good luck with the build! Are you documenting yours?
Hi from the UK Greg. Thinsulate is very good but like any product needs to be used correctly. Don't compress it or it loses some of its value. Spray foam is also permanent and this cause issues in the event if a repair following a relatively minor bump. With any insulator the elimination of thermal bridges is very important. Use different insulators in different places if your main ones can't give complete coverage. In Canada I'd consider doing without windows if possible. They suck away warmth. Like any warm layer......the more you have the warmer you'll be. Again in Canada I'd consider sacrificing a bit of internal volume for an extra all over layer of insulator. For heating you can't beat an Eberspacher (Espar to some) run from your vans diesel tank....millions of truckers can't be wrong ! Don't forget to provide ventilation. It's always a contradiction this. ....as you're basically letting cool air back in....but breathing is kinda important so it's unavoidable. Lol Just make your fresh air ducts adjustable to your daily needs. Finally I'm sure a Canadian doesn't need a Brit to tell them you can stay snug with good quality clothing layers and a decent Goose Down quilt on the bed ! Hope this helps. Happy travels everyone. John Edit: forgot to mention. .....a heavy material cab curtain or solid bulkhead (possibly removable/with a door) made from the likes of Kingspan which separates cab air from living compartment air will make a huge difference in very cold or very hot sunny weather. Best to consider these things before the build 😎
Van Kooks, (did I spell that correctly? :-) Thank you for your feedback. Looks like thinsulate could work for my needs after all. As far as documenting the process, it is a possibility. I'm finishing up a kitchen reno for clients and once I clean up the workshop, I'm moving a bulkhead and refinishing a kayak I built a number of years ago. So not even sure if I will get to the van this year. Then again researching the options is half the fun!
Hello John from the UK! Thanks for your comments, especially the one related to spray on foam and repairs. That had not occurred to me, so much appreciated. I also liked your observation about ventilation. Having lived on a boat in the past, I'm well aware of the challenge of dealing with condensation, so thanks for the reminder. Cheers
Hi Greg, check out this video of a couple that live in Canada throughout -40C winter in a van with no insulation and have done it for a few years ua-cam.com/video/GPahBz8wevI/v-deo.html I bet this could be a game changer for a lot of people. Do you think it would work just as well for hot areas?
Reax 22 we used it in our current vanbuild, but honestly we don’t even notice a difference to justify spending the extra money on that item. We DO notice a significant difference with the Thinsulate in there, probably because it is also an acoustic barrier. Way less rattle sounds
Tranquility Travels thanks! We are getting through it quick! We are going to do a majority out of metal so all framing will be welded by us. (First time!)
Check out this video of a couple that live in Canada throughout -40C winter in a van with no insulation and have done it for a few years ua-cam.com/video/GPahBz8wevI/v-deo.html
Sorry guys but according to the maker, that's the wrong way to use Reflectix. Plain bubble wrap will do the same job of poorly insulating, in that installation. See their web site.
Using it perfectly on the ceiling and walls. Won't do much on the floor, but unless you are going to put an inch of foam down, nothing is going to do great.
Derek T after two years of having it as our insulation, living thru -8 to 110 degree weather outside I would have to respectfully disagree! (Below zero and above 40c, I noticed your use of “full stop” and not “period” so I am guessing you relate better to Celsius.)
We are working on a complete van build video series! Sign up early for discounts and to be informed on our website www.vankookz.com
It is your rig ... whatever you want is great because it is your rig. I have that stuff "Thinsulate" in my winter boots. Happy trails.
Victor Boucher yeah they put it in a lot of snow jackets too! We say our van has a jacket now haha! But you’re right! It is our build and we are just trying to show people easy ways to DIY their van. It’s a huge intimidating project, we are hoping to dumb it down, get people thru it and living their best nomadic life, without getting caught up on the very “best way” to do something.
Do you have a video that covers the floor with a little more info. Can't tell if your using Thinsulate & Reflectic under you wood floor?
Collecting my new 4x4 MWB sprinter end of March 2020.. Think the video was very informative.. Did llok up 3m insulate butnotavailable in the UK.. Thinking of using YBS SuperQuilt.. But some great demonstations. Thanks
Before you spend one dime on insulation, fix all the leaks. Buy a tube of seam filler. Run a water hose over the van everywhere and check for leaks. Stop water leaks first, you don't want wet insulation inside your van. Mold, mildew and smells is all you get on your pretty insulation.
Very good advice! Luckily we had this van for six months prior to building and it showed no leaks after a long winter in the sierras. Thanks for watching!
i would get my van in couple months. im planning to get noico or kilmat sound deadening material as a shield on the metal to reduce condensation and use 2" GPS rigid foam board +fabric/wool insulation to fill the gap. i think the -20c -30c winter will produce lots condensation and breathable insulation might help retain and drying out moisture. sealing them might just create water pool somewhere my eyes wont be able to reach
Wow! That’s cold! You are a brave human.
Whatever opinion people have about Reflectix, it does make a great vapour shield.
Ant Man that’s what we used it for!
true!
Not to burst your bubbles:Think of heat as light, it bounces of reflective surfaces, so your design would be great for a cold climate application, however your reflective bubbles just become plain plastic bubbles at best in the reverse situation, in other words, kind of expensive for bubble rap!
eric vynckier haha I see what you did there 😏 we really don’t find reflectix that expensive. But it’s all relative! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Wrap*
What was it you used for the floor besides reflectix?
This van just had reflector to save headroom. Another good option is poly-iso foam + wooden slats. Check out our masterclass for more! www.vankookz.com
Thinsulate is the way to go . Hydrophobic and inert. I put some in my Transit build. :>)
Very good videos - why don't any of them have dates?
Have you tested the temperature difference inside and outside? I'm Interested in the delta. Thx
No but it makes a substantial difference In both the heat and the cold
Did you guys put thinsulat on the floor or just reflectix?
Just reflectix I would use a poly iso foam for the floor and add some wood slats as well. I’m just too tall and can stand with any extra insulation. It doesn’t do much but it is at least a thermal barrier.
Did you use thinsulate for the floor
No just refelectix. If you want to do the door get the poly iso foam stuff it’s more rigid works better
So I bought a transit connect and the oem black rubber floor had a insulation pad underneath and it was wet just from condensation. So it makes me scared to put insulation and reflectix down because it's going to trap moisture underneath and it will be a hot moldy soup. Anyone else run into mold problems doing it their way?
Thank you for your usefull information,I'm wonder for the floor if you put sound deadener under the Reflectix or above it?
We have in the past but don't really feel that it is worth the money.
You would put it underneath
What are you spraying on the lap sealant?
I used thinsulate and reflectix stuff also!
Thanks for the insight folks! Appreciate you sharing what has worked for you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much this is so helpful for my partner and I's project tomorrow! Blessings
Awesome. Happy building!
Hi, nice work but I’m very surprised you haven’t used any type of sound deadening material on this build. That’s quite a big van, with some large metal panels that will resonate like hell when travelling. At least you are installing insulation, I see so many stateside van conversions where a log burner or a diesel heater is given priority over insulation.
Hey thanks Andy. You are right. Don't skip the sound proofing. Take it from too kooks that did! They really make a difference in road noise. There are enough things rattling around while driving why have extra road noise? Anyways, this was the first time that we had skipped soundproofing to see, does this make a difference? Yes, it does!
Go and watch the insulation videos by Greg Virgoe and also the Restoration Couple for explanations of how sound deadening, insulation, and vapor barriers actually work and how to use them properly. Also check out the video by The Frugal Factor on why you need to seal the surface of every piece of wood you use in your van.
I wounder why you didn't add radiant barrier between the thinsulate and the reflectix? The 1/2 to 1 inch gap that everyone recommends. I have installed thinsulate and definitely putting the gap in on the ceiling.
There ends up being a gap between the reflectix and the walls after you frame them. There's just not much space in the van to be handing over inches.
Won't all the VOC's you used off gass when the van gets hot? Fast and Easy vs your health?
ThisSpotRules! We were worried about that with the spray foam. But we have an environmental engineer friend that said the 3M spray is only volatile when it is sprayed and drying. She said if you can smell the product you should still be wearing a filtered mask. Otherwise, living in the space after it has cured is fine she said.
May I ask why you have to add reflectix on top of the thinsulate? Also why the wheelwells are covered by reflectix but not thinsulate as well? And wouldn't the weight would crush the reflectix on the floor?
We likely use the reflectix as a thermal/vapor barrier. It's the cheapest solution. You could use a proper thermal barrier but it's more expensive.
Can you double layer thinsulate?
Yes
Did you thinsulate the floor, before putting the reflectives
Layer down?
No thinsulatr on the floor. Headroom is an issue in these vans and we wanted as much as we could get.
Wait! So the Thinsulate, Reflectix and a new cargo mat was the only thing that you use to redo the entier floor?😲🤔
6:41 - 6:53
With this van we only used reflectix. The T1N Sprinter is shorter than all other sprinter models so headroom was very important. The client wanted to be able to stand up inside the van so we went with minimal insulation on the floor. The reflectix is really just used as a vapor barrier at this point, it most likely doesn't add any insulation value. If you wanted more you can use Poly Iso Foam board (R-Max) on the floor to give you good insulation on the floor. Or you can frame out the ribs and raise the floor up a bit.
What kind of temperature have you gone to with this build?
we've been in 110 degree weather in Auburn, California and -8 in Taos, NM. If you are in the cold, your insulation will also insulate the cold, inside the van. So you will want a heater, for sure, if you are going to be in cold, below freezing ,weather. Once you get the van warm from your heater, it will hold the temp for quite sometime before you need to re-heat.
Very convenient method, thanks for sharing.
Yep it’s the easiest mess feee way! A bit more expensive but worth it in the long run
I’m hoping this insulation repels water and moisture, not “wick” it.
I realize there are multiple opinions regarding the insulation. What if dynamat was installed prior to thinsulate? Would that be better?
In our vanbuild that we live in, we used a dynamat type(rattletrap) first, like you say. That’s optional for sound noise. Since we found out that thinsulate is a sound barrier as well, we opted to not spend the money on dynamat on this build, but I can’t tell if it makes a difference or not on our build we live in...
@@Vankookz Thanks for the information
What did you do with the existing accessories like the lights? I'm a newbie 😆
Just pop them off with a flat head screw driver. Then unplug all of them unless you want them still. Sometimes it nice to keep the rear light
We used thinsulate in our transit as well!!
I'm not a DYI kinda guy. Do you, or do you know of anyone, or company that will do insulations?
You aren't a DIY guy yet. No one will do this. These van conversion companies are out there raping people on prices. So get all the supplies in the description and get to work!
What kind of air gap will you be leaving between the reflectix and your inner walls?
Should be a reasonable gap. I'm assuming they'll have to use framing to be able to put on wall paneling. That framing would create the vapor barrier on its own.
Did you ever do any framing on the floor? If not, did you just screw the cabinetry to the wall frame?
No framing on the floor. Yes all cabinets are installed into the wood framing that we attached to the vans metal ribs you can see how we did it here ua-cam.com/video/-DhqKWSUzVc/v-deo.html.
any problems with mold with your choice of insulations??
No we’ve had it in our other sprinter for 2 years and we tore some things apart and the insulation was looking fresh and dry
Thinsulate is anti fungal, by design. Probably the best insulation choice if you are trying to avoid mold.
dh1147 yes thank you for pointing that out. One of the reasons we went with it! Safe easy install.
If you don't mind me asking, how much did the total insulation cost? (Thinsulate, Reletix, and 3M spray)
Just under $1000 I feel like
Where do I buy the installation from
There are links in the description
I insulate with my nose and ear hairs.....takes a while between vans.
Danm dude you should be selling that product on amazon!
what type of floor did you put down that is 2 pieces
It was the floor that came stock with the van. Some sprinters come with nice subfloors that are usually in great condition
@@Vankookz My LWB Sprinter came with a 8mm thick floor in two pieces. Replaced it with 18mm ply in 4 pieces. Ran it from touching the base of the seat to the back door.
There is no rule book for converting a van.
Thanks for the insight!!!
rusty rivet hole... glue and paint... what could go wrong under the floor...
I think the reflectix acts as a moisture barrier in this case.
Yeah a vapor barrier. It's the cheapest vapor barrier on the market that still gives you some insulation.
Hi. You are doing great job BUT Reflectix does NOT work when it touches other surface.
77mucha hey thanks! yes, that is true. We have it touching where the framing is... it kinda floats where it isn’t behind framing. Then the silver tape to connect the edges! Still not sure how to get an air gap without it touching something somewhere 🤔
@@Vankookz thermal bridges will occur, they just have to be minimized best as you can.
Yes it does.
Bubble wrap will give ya that air gap...js.
Crusty Clad bubble wrap! Ok there’s an idea. I knew we would be getting a bunch of “you’re doing it wrong” on the insulation, thanks for the tip! Next time we will try that so we don’t create thermal bridges, but honestly we have lived in our sprinter for 2+ years with the way we’ve done it here and in the summer it stays cool and the the winter it holds in the heat from our heater. There is so much stuff in our sprinter like clothes, bikes, food, etc, which all act as plenty more insulation in there. People take this insulation too seriously. But I only find it’s a controversy with sprinter type builds. With the VW, no one cared to tell us we were doing it wrong or right. Most of the prefab vans have shit stock insulation , which is what we found out with the VW, it had no insulation coming from the 80s. Thanks for watching!! And we will def try to look over all these tips in the comments about how to do it better in our next build!
@3:34 lol, it''s so true 🤣🤣🤣
What size sprinter do you have and did you use all 50 feet of thinsulate or were there leftovers
140 There will be some leftovers but you can always insulate your front door panels with it
Great! What’s next?
Yvette Bagley fan, framing, electrical,
How long a roll did it take to do the whole van?
60 cubic feet. Link in description.
SAY WAIT!:
A super cheap greatly overlooked free insulation material for what you might use to stuff into cavities in a van is used poly fill-pillow filling that you can fairly easily get for free from people's warn discarded sofa's are often found next to apartment dumpsters OR the Foam From the discarded Seat Cushions-New foam is Very expensive but this foam is FREE and should also sound deaden much! The cushions often have zippers or just cut the seat open. To cut foam to desired size and shapes, I use a hack saw taken out of it's holder, holding the blade loose in hand and saw back and forth although it does not work as quick and precise as an electric meat knife, it works ok. Don't use fiberglass insulation that goes in house attics, I think the loose fibers would get into your lungs no matter what. Also note that the stuff in used sofa's have been covered and protected by the outer fabric so it's usually in pretty good shape.
Because any soft pillow pads or pillow backs can be full of the stuff. Just cut open with a knife to find out and take what you want before the garbage company crushes the sofa.
Of course you'd want to give it a quick close scan smell with your nose on it in case it has pet urine but really most apartment deter pets by either not allowing pets or they charge a lot to have them.
Manufacturers make the poly basically from plastic bottles and it's fluffy and no one is allergic to it and it doesn't make you scratch and it doesn't absorb water and although it isn't as good of an insulation as foam, it does insulate by holding the air in it's fiber fluff pockets.
Of course you can buy it new in bag at hobby departments but it can be kind of expensive and why buy new when you can get for free and save the environment from more new plastic?!
What could be cheaper? Thanks for your videos! I like the shiny silver!
Hmmm very interesting I've never heard of this option but seems like a great way to reuse and upcycle what would go into the landfill. Thanks for watching.
this is a great idea, the overstuffed $5 pillows at walmart or target would be a good source. Now i know how i'll insulate those rib pockets. I'm not too enthusiastic about finding the stuff used though, as it is bound to be inundated with someones saliva, or fart distillate.
Max Stevenson well at $5 a pop, it will take a surprising amount to fill all the pockets and if we really cared about our planet, we would strive to use used. We are pushing the planets off our planet.
What if we get reincarnated and have to face the mess and reduced standard of living?
It’s protected by the fabric, especially the seat pillow backs.
If your concerned about it not being clean, you can hose it off with the garden hose and then let it dry in the sun. Guaranteed to wash the farts out!
It drys fast because it is plastic.
It’s nicely bundled by people putting weight in it.
That’s my 2 cents!
Take care!
Hi Aruba!
Well I am keeping my 15 passenger van original mostly with the plastic panel walls and carpet and headliner.
Because I want a party, road trip/light camping with friends pulls boat trailer van.
So I’ve gotten rid of the 4th bench
seat and rearranged/rebolted the 3 bench seats into a C shape lounge setting when you enter the side barn doors.
The original bench seats are very strong and can be slept on and/or legs under the benches on the floor.
The carpet is worn out but I’ve cleaned it and it has a heavy rubber backing attached to it and some jewt backing so very good for sound deafening.
I am adding on top, some affordable exterior black carpet from Lowe’s and used carpet pad under the it all plus carpet pad cut to fit the floor metal ribs to level the ribs out and sleeping comfort.
For insulation used polyfill from dumpster side pillow top sofas and chairs.
Stuffed the polyfill in all wall cavities and the doors(but avoid the moving windows and door lock mechanism areas.
For the ceiling, cut and place poly/Dacron batting from the used sofas.
The polyfil is usually clean and if you pull some out of a sofa and it’s dirty like someone spilled their soda on the sofa, you can still use if you just hose the pile off and let it dry in the sun.
It’s plastic so it doesn’t absorb moisture or dirt.
Take care
Ic ic
Well what is your goal for how you will use the van?
I would say you definitely have to insulate some since you can for free.
Mine is just a party van but I insulated. It will help the AC cool faster and heater heat better and last longer when off and keep the sun off in the summer.
People say they regret they didn’t or it made such a difference or to always insulate.
Mine has all windows so going sacrificing walls width with more insulation probably won’t make much difference.
If your living in your van in cold or hot places then you’ll want to insulate more.
Watch videos and vanlife sites for more info.
Insulation people buy to use is fiberglass is aweful for lungs, no one uses it much anymore.
Spray commercial insulation is expensive and very tricky and messy.
Ridgid foam board has a high r value and is sold in home improvement stores.
Loose fill recycled denim is expensive and absorbs moisture.
Loose wool is expensive.
For loose fill free polyfill is the way to go if you ask me.
I am using spray can foam for the inner roof to wall gap because it will set firm and give the starting edge support from the walls.
The van roofs are weak and designed so weight carrying brackets always attach to the strong wall supported rain gutters.
But it’s nice to strengthen the roof if you can because it’s nice to be able to stand on it when needed to take things on and off the roof racks.
Whatever inner ceiling you install you might consider if it can add support to the roof at the same time.
There are so many roots for the cold to come into the van from the van sides roof and floor I do not believe it is possible to correctly insulate a van.
It isn't really possible, but you can always try. Something is better than nothing.
3m 90 absorbs through ur skin too. I used it and got cancer 2 yrs ago
Yeah that shit is so toxic! I hope you are doing ok.
Is thinsulate toxic. I was told it wasn’t then someone else told me yes maybe because of the company it comes from?
To a certain point everything you will put in this van is toxic. I recommend with the thinsulate to open it up and roll it out and let it off gas for a few days. Or install it all and leave the van doors open and circulate some fresh air in there. The most toxic thing in almost the entire build process is the 3M spray adhesive. This stuff is no joke. This is when wearing a N95 mask actually makes since. I wear a mask almost the entire build process. Saw dust, paint off gassing, all kinds of shit can get into your system. It’s all about minimizing your exposure. The solution to pollution is dilution. So minimizing where you can is your next bet. This isn’t a very highly toxic material but yes 3M is not to be trusted. Look at what they did with Teflon.
Think of the chemical offgassing of the adhesive over YEARS. YIKES!
It would be more beneficial if you spoke about why you chose the methodology and materials you did. No mention of the thermal insulation ratings based on thickness, you just spoke about how it wicks away moisture. That in itself is dead wrong, you don’t want to wick up moisture with insulation as it just turns to black mold because it can’t go anywhere. You want to prevent moisture in the first place and you have left no accommodation between the walls and insulation to breath or vent. There really is no ‘controversy’ over insulating a van like you’ve mentioned, it’s just simple science. Most people don’t take the time to educate themselves as to the physics of these things. Even applying Reflectix is done wrong. As others have mentioned, you must leave an air gap between the Mylar and your next barrier, preferably an inch for it to be effective. This has been covered over and over again ad nauseum here on UA-cam but to no effect, people still place their covering materials in contact with the Reflectix ruining any insulation value at all. A good understand for small enclosure insulation can be had by reading NASA’s methodologies for space capsule insulation from the early 60’s. There’s no ambiguity or “controversy” as to how things should done. This is old proven science and developed long before most viewers were born, the laws of physics haven’t changed. A little search, a little critical and analytical thinking on the science behind these things, will certainly go a long way to prevent people from doing and spending needlessly on the wrong things.
Well they are building an air barrier to prevent moisture and using the reflectx as a moisture barrier it seems. There is also the insurable inside the reflectx acting as an air barrier. Btw this is van using affordable materials not a NASA space ship using high tech heat exchangers to control temp. Actually surprised havnt seen a good designed heat exchange system in a van yet.
how has it held up so far?
Amazing! We did this on our current van 3 years ago and. We recently remodeled and it was dry and in great condition
The trick to fighting Radiant heat. Is too cover all the support pillars with Radiant Barrier. Then foil tape all the seams. As any metal in contact with the outside. With conduct heat\cold right into the RV... Thus bypassing your insulation..Windows are the worst..
And you don't have to glue every inch.. You just want it to stay in place.. Till you install the Barrier and walls...As the adhesive will turn to dust in 5 years anyways...Why I use Foil tape around the edges. It stays till you pull it off...
And yes My friend built costume RV's for years. He taught me all the myths and correct ways to use materials. That included using Automotive grade SXL wiring and NMT conduit. As you have to treat an RV as a Vehicle. Not a house. As your house is not driving around on rough roads. Sudden changes in weather. Vibration etc...
Nice work
Thanks!
Leaving the rust in place is way more controversial.
Linda Deneher totally! We did a whole rust removal with Raptor liner paint in another video. We are always dealing with rust with these sprinters! In our current van we live in, we raptor lined the inside of the floor (under the subfloor) as well. I would totally recommend doing that. (It Gives you maybe a couple r-values and it deals with the rust on the floor) thanks for watching and pointing that out!
What does the reflective do.?
It’s a thermal/vapor barrier. It honestly doesn’t do much. It adds a bit of r value for not much cost is how we see it.
Thinsulate for the win
ourkaravan oh yeah!
Kenny. You still watching van build videos? Lol. You the master bro. Awesome you are still learning. I'm gonna pick up my 4*4 sprinter tomorrow I think. I'll be checking your channel, this channel, will prowse, and seven o Savage for sure.
I'm debating whether to go with extruded aluminum like you did, or try to learn how to weld like Dani did. Both badass
looking forward to watching more of your build.
Lani Nagy thanks for watching! We got more coming for ya! Be sure to follow us on Instagram, we update live on the stories! @vankookz
yes they are way ahead on their instagram stories!
good video thx
Insulation is not controversial it is just misunderstood.
If you want the TRUTH about van insulation see YT Channel @Greg Virgoe.
He is the benchmark by which all other van builds are measured.
Greg did a very similar job with his ceiling and walls except he used Rockwool which is an inferior product to Thinsulate for this application because it holds moisture and will mold.
@@ohiomoto see, there is the misunderstanding.
Insulation is a SYSTEM not a product.
Greg will not have a moisture problem because he totally understands the science of the insulation SYSTEM.
And I guarantee you THINSULATE does not have superior thermal properties compared to the products Greg used.
The Bicycle Engine hey thanks! We will check him out! We just did the van the exact same way we did the sprinter we live in now, because it works. It’s gotten completely soaked in a two day rainstorm from a leak in our tail light. The entire cavity above the back doors where the brake light is housed was full of water. Once we got the water out, the thinsulate just dried pretty quickly and looked as if nothing happened. No smell or anything. So there’s no way after two years of keeping a temperate van were we gonna try anything else. But I will check out this Greg guy! Thank you!!
IF it happens to get wet it will be superior!! Haha. I respect Greg and love his videos. He even mentions some of the shortcomings or these products in his videos. Ultimately he declared it was "good enough" for his purposes and that's what matters.
@@Vankookz Deffo check out the van build on Greg's channel. He's a cool guy too and replies to nearly all messages.
Right on, Kookz! I totally agree that Thinsulate is the way to go, easy to install and really works. I also fished strips thru my roof ribs and covered the wheelwells with it. Great stuff, no reason to cheap out on one of the most important parts of the build. Stoked to see you guys documenting another project! How come Dani’s hands weren’t as bloody as mine when she got done?!
SC Nomad yes, we totally did that on the first Sprinter! Taped up all the holes, taped a piece to some string and suck it thru with a vacuum! Covering the wheelwells, damn I love that idea. We should have done that. Probably still can! Haha 😂 you’re hands were bloody from the thinsulate install?!
Hi, what is the song in the sound track?
tru obalanga only the best band you’ve never heard of! ua-cam.com/video/bjkHIfhIpKA/v-deo.html
Question: why did you add reflectix over your insulation?
In this application we used it for a thermal barrier and also to add a little bit of R value for a low price.
hello.. van kookz would love for you to build my future van thanks for video
jose goodwin Well... this van is a flip project so it could be yours
ME TOO! Love the bed design we've seen on your Instagram stories, can't wait to see how you made it in your UA-cam videos. Never seen an extending rock n roll bed!
👍 I like easy!!!!!
I don't want to start the controversy, but how would thinsulate stand up to Canadian winter temps. I'd like to build a van for ski trips and figured spray in insulation would be the best, if expensive, choice. Looking forward to watching the build!
Greg Watson as long as you have a heat source, aka snugger, webasto or even a mr buddy might do it. But we have stayed in as cold as -13c in the van with Thinsulate and it was snug with the heater. But if you are really going for that high R Value, I would do the spray foam. We just wanted to avoid the mess! Thanks for watching Greg! Good luck with the build! Are you documenting yours?
Hi from the UK Greg. Thinsulate is very good but like any product needs to be used correctly. Don't compress it or it loses some of its value. Spray foam is also permanent and this cause issues in the event if a repair following a relatively minor bump. With any insulator the elimination of thermal bridges is very important. Use different insulators in different places if your main ones can't give complete coverage. In Canada I'd consider doing without windows if possible. They suck away warmth. Like any warm layer......the more you have the warmer you'll be. Again in Canada I'd consider sacrificing a bit of internal volume for an extra all over layer of insulator. For heating you can't beat an Eberspacher (Espar to some) run from your vans diesel tank....millions of truckers can't be wrong ! Don't forget to provide ventilation. It's always a contradiction this. ....as you're basically letting cool air back in....but breathing is kinda important so it's unavoidable. Lol Just make your fresh air ducts adjustable to your daily needs. Finally I'm sure a Canadian doesn't need a Brit to tell them you can stay snug with good quality clothing layers and a decent Goose Down quilt on the bed ! Hope this helps. Happy travels everyone. John
Edit: forgot to mention. .....a heavy material cab curtain or solid bulkhead (possibly removable/with a door) made from the likes of Kingspan which separates cab air from living compartment air will make a huge difference in very cold or very hot sunny weather. Best to consider these things before the build 😎
Van Kooks, (did I spell that correctly? :-) Thank you for your feedback. Looks like thinsulate could work for my needs after all. As far as documenting the process, it is a possibility. I'm finishing up a kitchen reno for clients and once I clean up the workshop, I'm moving a bulkhead and refinishing a kayak I built a number of years ago. So not even sure if I will get to the van this year. Then again researching the options is half the fun!
Hello John from the UK! Thanks for your comments, especially the one related to spray on foam and repairs. That had not occurred to me, so much appreciated. I also liked your observation about ventilation. Having lived on a boat in the past, I'm well aware of the challenge of dealing with condensation, so thanks for the reminder. Cheers
Hi Greg, check out this video of a couple that live in Canada throughout -40C winter in a van with no insulation and have done it for a few years ua-cam.com/video/GPahBz8wevI/v-deo.html
I bet this could be a game changer for a lot of people. Do you think it would work just as well for hot areas?
Did you use thinsulate for the flooring? I can't seem to find any video that covers a thinsulate floor build.
No... we used a few layers of relflectix. Kevin is tall so we didn’t want to loose headroom with polyiso which is prob the best for the floor
So ratltrap isnt necessary?
Reax 22 we used it in our current vanbuild, but honestly we don’t even notice a difference to justify spending the extra money on that item. We DO notice a significant difference with the Thinsulate in there, probably because it is also an acoustic barrier. Way less rattle sounds
Bwahaha she pooted haha freedom huh 🤔
No soundproofing 😳
THinsulate is also an acoustic insulation so its a two in one!
Where did you purchase the 3m thinsulate? I love your videos!
Creed M amazon! They finally stock it. We use to get it from eBay. The amazon link is in the description!
👍👍
Thanks! We just put out a newer insulation video with more info.
Look forward to seeing you build out another van. Any design surprises? (It’s nice t know insulation gets easier with experience! )
Tranquility Travels thanks! We are getting through it quick! We are going to do a majority out of metal so all framing will be welded by us. (First time!)
Check out this video of a couple that live in Canada throughout -40C winter in a van with no insulation and have done it for a few years ua-cam.com/video/GPahBz8wevI/v-deo.html
Sorry guys but according to the maker, that's the wrong way to use Reflectix. Plain bubble wrap will do the same job of poorly insulating, in that installation. See their web site.
Using it perfectly on the ceiling and walls. Won't do much on the floor, but unless you are going to put an inch of foam down, nothing is going to do great.
Pull it all back out you forgot to sikaflex the ribs and sound deaden the panels rookie mistakes.
They put refletix across entire floor so Sikaflex on the ribs would be pointless.
holy $#!+
most people just haven't got a clue how to do these jobs correctly. They pick a video and copy, its like Chinese whispers. Ignorance is bliss though.
Yeah, you're right... He did s terrible job.... I went to see your work on your channel but didn't see a better example.... Thanks for your critique.
Reflectix is rubbish. Save your money and use aluminium foil!
haha
You screwed your floor to the van?!? Terrible idea!!!
Negative
God this girl is hot lol
Thinsulate is not insulation. Full stop.
Derek T after two years of having it as our insulation, living thru -8 to 110 degree weather outside I would have to respectfully disagree! (Below zero and above 40c, I noticed your use of “full stop” and not “period” so I am guessing you relate better to Celsius.)
Why would you need insulation with that hot chick in the van
😂😂😂
U didn't put thinnsulate on the floor ?
No I don't have enough head room I am over 6 feet tall so every inch counts. You should if you are shorter